Re: [weathering] Re: Wood Shake Shingles-Frost Style


Apr 5, 2008

 


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#7444 Apr 5, 2008

Thanks Guys,



I just took my depot down to my train room to see how it would appear in

that lighting. If ANYONE wants to do a late fall/winter Iowa scene, I have

stumbled onto the perfect Iowa frosted roof. My shakes...Ha. It just isn't

right yet for a weathered look.



I assume this will wash off to a certain degree so I am able to start over?

JD, I like your idea of using the acrylics and your examples, but first I

want to figure out the chalk system that most of the hobby guys use so much.



Cedar Rapids always had a Blick store. Have bought other art supplies there

in the past. But when over there a month ago, it had closed or moved.

Guess it is back to the internet and freight charges. Tony, when you have

sometime this week, would you give me a list of the chalk colors or the

numbers that you like to use. On the web site, they have over 200 colors

and shades. WOW! Little over whelming.



What my mission is about is to take this 'sort-of-entry-level' craftsman

kit, CGLaser depot kit and use all of the methods and techniques used in a

full blown craftsman kit. I have arm chaired for years, and now I am

starting to do what I always wanted to do. To go with this, I just finished

its train order signal from SS Ldt. Took me a day to get my eyes straighten

out again with all of the small parts. Ha. Little different than loading

milk cans in a Lionel reefer.



I am keeping everyone's suggestions and I thank all of you for them. If any

more ideas come to mind, I'm all eyes and ears.



Now back to the NCAA games.



Have a good weekend everyone.



Bob

----- Original Message -----

From: "Tony Burgess" adm.nelson@...>

To: weathering@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 4:30 PM

Subject: Re: [weathering] Re: Wood Shake Shingles





> Your welcome Bob. One thing I like about the chalks I mentioned, they are

> not as heavy as DrBens and others, plus the wide variety of colors and

> shades out weigh the others. I have 10 or 12 shades of grey, and various

> other colors not available in powders. many different greens for example,

> several reds, or shades of. www.dickblick.com/zz200/26/ The soft

> pastels are the ones to buy if you get any.

> Tony Burgess

> Tulsa, OK

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Robert Klostermann

> To: weathering@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 4:08 PM

> Subject: Re: [weathering] Re: Wood Shake Shingles

>

>

> Thanks Tony & JD,

>

> JD, you are right about using Grime. It just kept soaking in, but with

> the

> dark back ground color of the Paper Creek shingles, not much help trying

> to

> get the effect I was after. I like your suggestions with colored pencils.

> Will pick some up later to try.

>

> Tony, I did take your advise of using scrap piece of the shingles first.

> Good thing I did. Started with trying Dr Bens Ballast Grey stain. Hard to

> control the density of the color on the shingles. On a wood siding

> building, this acts like a great product for the grayed weathered

> building

> look.

>

> Then I found some Bragdon powders I have owned but had never used.

> Applied

> Ash first. This grayed the shingles down well. And really brush it in.

> Thought the shade needed a little more so added grimy black over the top

> of

> the ash. Then a little more ash. Results don't look too bad. My house has

> wood shingles on so trying to get close to that shade.

>

> Will now have to wait for layout construction to start to see how the

> color

> will look under that lighting.

>

> Had never used powders till today. They are a lot easier to use that I

> expected.

>

> JD, I really like your structure's on your web site. I will remember to

> try

> your acrylic paint technique on the next roof. Had the powders in play

> before I received your message.

>

> Thanks again to both of you for the time and the help to send your tips.

>

> Bob

>

> > I dont think the Grime worked because it seems like more of a stain

> > to me than a paint. I imagine it just soaked in. I like the Paper

> > Creek products and have used them in Sn3. I dry brush them using

> > acrylic paint. I dont thin the paint, just mix up white with a tiny

> > drop of black to get a nice light grey color. You want to scrub your

> > brush on a paper towel until theres hardly anything coming off it. It

> > doesnt take much to get a great affect. You can always add more, but

> > if you put too much on to start..... I also use water color pencils,

> > in this case grey again. There are several brands and any will do. I

> > just draw on the shingles moving from top to bottom until I like the

> > look. Here is a link to my old blog that shows photos of what I did

> > with Paper Creek shingles. Scroll down near the bottom, you can add

> > more dry brush if you want them lighter.

> >

> > www.mysn3.blogspot.com/

> >

> > Hope this helps, JD.

>

> I usually use chalks to lighten my Paper Creek shingles. Or any shingles.

> And tarpaper. You can try it on a scrap section, you know, take a few off

> cuts, glue them on some cardboard and color them before you do the main

> roof. The chalks I use are artist chalks, Rembrandt and Sennelier are two

> brands I use. I get them from Dick Blick, but some artist stores or the

> like

> might also have them. I scrape the chalk off the stick with a blade, dip

> a

> brush into the shaved chalk dust, and apply to roof. A soft brush will

> allow

> you to add a little at a time, I don't fix it after, it isn't needed and

> it

> only dulls it out so your efforts are wasted. You don't really need much.

> Tony Burgess

> >

> >

---------------

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

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>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>







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