VintageBigBlue.org

 

Re: Pier suggestions


Sep 1, 2000

 


----------------------------

#282 Sep 1, 2000

I seem to have a slight bit of slop between the G11 head and the

tripod pier. I'm using the TKS (no-tool tripod knobs) as tight as I

can hand crank them. This is only noticable when there is weight on

the unit (C11 & counter weights). The shift is about a 1/8" at worst.



The knobs seem to shift a little in the enlongated pier slots. A

shim between the pier and head would pull the knobs to the top of the

slot and stop the slop as would accurately set round holes (Not a

slam, just an obervation)



Has anyone else noticed this?



----------------------------

#283 Sep 1, 2000

Yes. That's why I went back to the Allen-key bolts.



Paul Sterngold



--- Allen Maroney amaroney@...> wrote: > I seem to have a slight bit of slop between the G11 head and the

> tripod pier. I'm using the TKS (no-tool tripod knobs) as tight as I

> can hand crank them. This is only noticable when there is weight on

> the unit (C11 & counter weights). The shift is about a 1/8" at worst.

>

> The knobs seem to shift a little in the enlongated pier slots. A

> shim between the pier and head would pull the knobs to the top of the

> slot and stop the slop as would accurately set round holes (Not a

> slam, just an obervation)

>

> Has anyone else noticed this?

>

>

>

>





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----------------------------

#890 Nov 5, 2000

I have been basically a dob user for the last ten years, but am adding

a C-9.25 to my arsenal and need some basic information on the G-11.

My main purpose is to use the C-9.25 in my backyard observatory for

visual and CCD use, set on a G-11 pier, but would like to use it

occasionally for starparties and photography at our clubs dark-sky

site. Knowing absolutely nothing about the mount, is it practical to

consider moving the G-11 between pier and tripod configurations? I

will also have Celestron's CG-5 available (beefed up on wooden legs

and reinforced), which might be okay for visual use at starparties but

probably negates the possibility of photographic work. Any

suggestions? I can't find any information at the Losmandy site about

this. Any help would be most appreciated. Clear Skies, Lon Dittrick



----------------------------

#891 Nov 5, 2000

Hi Lon,



The G11 equ head easily separates from its mounting platform, be it the standard

Losmandy tripod and 'half-pier', or a full-fledged pier. In addition, the Losmandy

tripod and half-pier are easily transportable, IMO.



I don't think you'd be happy with the C9.25 on the CG5 mount. I don't know much about

the CG5 but I assume it's got roughly the same capacity and stability as a Vixen GP. I

find my C9.25 acceptably stable for visual use on a GM8 but wouldn't want to use it on

anything lighter, except perhaps a Vixen GP-DX or the older SP-DX (which is actually

heavier-duty than the current GP-DX).



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold



--- Lonnie Dittrick led500@...> wrote: > I have been basically a dob user for the last ten years, but am adding

> a C-9.25 to my arsenal and need some basic information on the G-11.

> My main purpose is to use the C-9.25 in my backyard observatory for

> visual and CCD use, set on a G-11 pier, but would like to use it

> occasionally for starparties and photography at our clubs dark-sky

> site. Knowing absolutely nothing about the mount, is it practical to

> consider moving the G-11 between pier and tripod configurations? I

> will also have Celestron's CG-5 available (beefed up on wooden legs

> and reinforced), which might be okay for visual use at starparties but

> probably negates the possibility of photographic work. Any

> suggestions? I can't find any information at the Losmandy site about

> this. Any help would be most appreciated. Clear Skies, Lon Dittrick

>

>





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----------------------------

#892 Nov 5, 2000

Yes, quite practical. Losmandy sells an adapter that will bolt to the top

of a pier and provides the same hole pattern and electronics mounting "ears"

as the tripod. I used such a setup in a permanent observatory I had for a

number of years. It only takes a few minutes to bolt the mount head on and

you are very close in polar alignment from one session to the next.



John Anderson

anderiii@... ----- Original Message -----

From: "Lonnie Dittrick" led500@...>

To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 7:43 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Ease of Tripod vs. Pier conversion on G-11





> I have been basically a dob user for the last ten years, but am adding

> a C-9.25 to my arsenal and need some basic information on the G-11.

> My main purpose is to use the C-9.25 in my backyard observatory for

> visual and CCD use, set on a G-11 pier, but would like to use it

> occasionally for starparties and photography at our clubs dark-sky

> site. Knowing absolutely nothing about the mount, is it practical to

> consider moving the G-11 between pier and tripod configurations? I

> will also have Celestron's CG-5 available (beefed up on wooden legs

> and reinforced), which might be okay for visual use at starparties but

> probably negates the possibility of photographic work. Any

> suggestions? I can't find any information at the Losmandy site about

> this. Any help would be most appreciated. Clear Skies, Lon Dittrick

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>







----------------------------

#898 Nov 6, 2000

Lonnie Dittrick wrote:

> I have been basically a dob user for the last ten years, but am adding

> a C-9.25 to my arsenal and need some basic information on the G-11.

> My main purpose is to use the C-9.25 in my backyard observatory for

> visual and CCD use, set on a G-11 pier, but would like to use it

> occasionally for starparties and photography at our clubs dark-sky

> site. Knowing absolutely nothing about the mount, is it practical to

> consider moving the G-11 between pier and tripod configurations? I

> will also have Celestron's CG-5 available (beefed up on wooden legs

> and reinforced), which might be okay for visual use at starparties but

> probably negates the possibility of photographic work. Any

> suggestions?



Lonnie,



My $.02 worth...



Losmandy has a part called the Meade field tripod adapter (Losmandy part #

MA) which is designed to be used with either Meade's heavy duty tripods or

can be mounted on a permanent pier. It only costs about $80 from Anacortes,

although I've heard that delivery time on it from Losmandy was a bit slow.

Not sure of the current status. What I did for my observing site was to buy

a chunk of 6" DOM (drawn over mandrell) steel pipe, and had a friend who had

a small lathe setup in his garage turn down the ID to match that of the

Losmandy base plate (it's relatively easy to take apart and measure.) It was

welded to a 6 foot long pier and powder coated at a local vendor. Total cost

(including 6 pack g>) was about 250 bucks. If you have access to local

steel suppliers and a friend with a lathe, this might be a way to go. Also

if I had to do it over, I had originally bought the whole length of steel

pipe (6 feet) for about $150. What I would do differently would be to see

what the minimum I could get was (like about a one foot chunk), buy that and

turn it down, weld a plate on the bottom and bolt the whole thing to a

concrete pier. Probably be a lot cheaper and more stable too. You can see

this setup at www.teleport.com/~argo/web_images/g11_2.JPG (although

it's changed a bit since then.)



You can then use the tripod that comes with it for star parties.



--

Jim Girard

www.teleport.com/~argo



----------------------------

#908 Nov 7, 2000

Thanks Paul, this is good news. I know the CG-5 is a poor sub for the

C-9.25, but it comes with drives included for a couple of hundred

bucks more than the OTA itself, and it will be awhile before I can

enough funds together to purchase the Losmandy G-11. This will give

me a second lighter mount for use on a smaller instrument, or I can

outright sell it. Lon Dittrick



--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, Paul Sterngold psterngold@y...>

wrote: > Hi Lon,

>

> The G11 equ head easily separates from its mounting platform, be it

the standard > Losmandy tripod and 'half-pier', or a full-fledged pier. In

addition, the Losmandy > tripod and half-pier are easily transportable, IMO.

>

> I don't think you'd be happy with the C9.25 on the CG5 mount. I

don't know much about > the CG5 but I assume it's got roughly the same capacity and

stability as a Vixen GP. I > find my C9.25 acceptably stable for visual use on a GM8 but wouldn't

want to use it on > anything lighter, except perhaps a Vixen GP-DX or the older SP-DX

(which is actually > heavier-duty than the current GP-DX).

>

> Cheers,

> Paul Sterngold

>

> --- Lonnie Dittrick led500@s...> wrote:

> > I have been basically a dob user for the last ten years, but am

adding > > a C-9.25 to my arsenal and need some basic information on the

G-11. > > My main purpose is to use the C-9.25 in my backyard observatory

for > > visual and CCD use, set on a G-11 pier, but would like to use it

> > occasionally for starparties and photography at our clubs dark-sky

> > site. Knowing absolutely nothing about the mount, is it practical

to > > consider moving the G-11 between pier and tripod configurations?

I > > will also have Celestron's CG-5 available (beefed up on wooden

legs > > and reinforced), which might be okay for visual use at starparties

but > > probably negates the possibility of photographic work. Any

> > suggestions? I can't find any information at the Losmandy site

about > > this. Any help would be most appreciated. Clear Skies, Lon

Dittrick > >

> >

>

>

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----------------------------

#909 Nov 7, 2000

Thanks John, for your input. What is the general method of bolting

the adapter plate to the pier...eg. does it slip over the pier and

bolt to it?? Lon



--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, "John Anderson" anderiii@m...>

wrote: > Yes, quite practical. Losmandy sells an adapter that will bolt to

the top > of a pier and provides the same hole pattern and electronics

mounting "ears" > as the tripod. I used such a setup in a permanent observatory I had

for a > number of years. It only takes a few minutes to bolt the mount head

on and > you are very close in polar alignment from one session to the next.

>

> John Anderson

> anderiii@m...

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Lonnie Dittrick" led500@s...>

> To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com>

> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 7:43 PM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Ease of Tripod vs. Pier conversion on G-11

>

>

> > I have been basically a dob user for the last ten years, but am

adding > > a C-9.25 to my arsenal and need some basic information on the

G-11. > > My main purpose is to use the C-9.25 in my backyard observatory

for > > visual and CCD use, set on a G-11 pier, but would like to use it

> > occasionally for starparties and photography at our clubs dark-sky

> > site. Knowing absolutely nothing about the mount, is it practical

to > > consider moving the G-11 between pier and tripod configurations?

I > > will also have Celestron's CG-5 available (beefed up on wooden

legs > > and reinforced), which might be okay for visual use at starparties

but > > probably negates the possibility of photographic work. Any

> > suggestions? I can't find any information at the Losmandy site

about > > this. Any help would be most appreciated. Clear Skies, Lon

Dittrick > >

> >

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >







----------------------------

#910 Nov 7, 2000

The adapter that I use has a solid plate at the bottom and is designed to

bolt to a Meade style tripod with one central 1/2 inch bolt, much the way a

Meade Wedge for an 8" SCT bolts to the tripod. My pier has a 1/2 inch thick

plate top, threaded 1/2 inch. The Losmandy adapter sit on top and is bolted

in place with a 1/2 inch Hex head bolt. Once polar aligned, I leave the

adapter on the pier and just bolt the G11 head on each time. Polar

alignment varies a bit from time to time due to slop in the 3 bolt Losmandy

head pattern, but not much.



John Anderson

anderiii@... ----- Original Message -----

From: "Lonnie Dittrick" led500@...>

To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 1:15 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Ease of Tripod vs. Pier conversion on G-11





> Thanks John, for your input. What is the general method of bolting



----------------------------

#2055 Jan 14, 2001

--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, "Steve Nightingale"

snightingale40@h...> wrote: > Hi Folks,

>

> Just uploaded a shot of Greg Nowell and myself at my newly

completed > observatory. If there is interest I'll upload a couple of more

shots > of the obs. I guess it's "on topic" because I do have my G11

> permanently mounted in it!

>

> Steve



What is a source for a pier for a G11? You indicated you have yours

permanently mounted. I want to do the same thing.



kevin



----------------------------

#2058 Jan 14, 2001

--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, _kevin1231@e... wrote: > --- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, "Steve Nightingale"

> snightingale40@h...> wrote:

> > Hi Folks,

> >

> > Just uploaded a shot of Greg Nowell and myself at my newly

> completed

> > observatory. If there is interest I'll upload a couple of more

> shots

> > of the obs. I guess it's "on topic" because I do have my G11

> > permanently mounted in it!

> >

> > Steve

>

> What is a source for a pier for a G11? You indicated you have yours

> permanently mounted. I want to do the same thing.

>

> kevin



Hi Kevin,



I located a section of pipe at a steel fabricators, then had a welder

put a plate and gussets on the bottom. I'll upload a couple of more

photos in a few minutes.



Steve



----------------------------

#2077 Jan 14, 2001

In a message dated 1/14/01 4:33:21 PM Central Standard Time,

_kevin1231@... writes:



< What is a source for a pier for a G11? You indicated you have yours

permanently mounted. I want to do the same thing.



kevin >>

Kevin,

I will upload a pic of my pier tonight and, yes, it is one of the best

investments for photography. I bought mine from a fellow by the name of

"P.T." Barnum. I ain't kiddin! His first name isn't P.T. but he is directly

related to the Barnum of circus fame unless he was pulling my leg....uncle or

grand uncle or something thus the nickname. Anyway, he built me a pier to my

design (I sent him prints) in about 3 to 4 weeks if I remember correctly. He

made it out of 6" Sch. 80 cast iron pipe with a 1/4" base and bracing and

stood 36" tall. The finished pier weighed about 125-130 lbs. Take a look at

the pic and if you are interested I can tell you how to get in touch with

him. The file name is Equipment.jpg. (C8/G11 on Barnum Pier) It is okay

for this group cause I have my G-11 on it!



Andy Mc



----------------------------

#2079 Jan 15, 2001

With all the discussion about permanent piers for the G-11,

I would like to submit this for review. I have installed

my G-11 on an AstroPier. Full details with photos are at:

www.regulusastro.com/regulus/observatory/index.html

Hope it's helpful.

Enjoy, and Clear Skies,

~johnb



----------------------------

#2155 Jan 17, 2001

Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?



thanks



Jimmy

>From: "Scott Losmandy" scott@...>

>Reply-To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: More Gemini tests

>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:22:26 -0000

>

>Hello

>We have found that if you are checking the tracking rate with a SCT

>there are lots of problem. The best way to check, is with a

>refractor.

>I have seen this problem many times before, the mirror moving at a

>constant rate, making it look as if the mount was not tracking.

>Scott

>

>--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, goerlich@t... wrote:

> > Rich,

> >

> > > I had exactly the same problem (tracking slightly too fast)when I

> > > tested the Gemini on my HGM-200 mount. The star did not leave the

> > > eyepiece FOV however, it just kept moving slightly ahead of the

> > > guiding box in the reticle. I tried tracking different

> > > stars which were generally not far from the meridian and noted the

> > > same drift each time. The mount was aligned using declination

>drift

> > > so I don't understand why the mount was tracking fast.

> > >

> > > Rene', is there an explanation for this?

> >

> > One effect I know of: after positioning to a star it is moving

>slightly

> > in RA until the force and friction between the RA worm and the

>tooth

>flanc

> > stabilizes. To keep it stable, the mount is usually slightly

>disbalanced

> > in RA that the worm pushes the toothed wheel.

> > That could describe a slow but limited drift.

> >

> > If the tracking is too fast, the star will leave the FOV. If that

>happens

> > I would need to know the speed of the drift. The data I need: your

> > location, which object used, UTC date and time, time the object

>needs

> > to drift from the crosshair (middle) of your eyepiece to the edge,

> > the FOV used (you can position slightly to the west, switch the

>tracking

> > off and measure the time it takes the object from the middle to the

>edge.

> > Best is if the object is at the equator, if not, the true FOV can be

> > calculated by dividing by cos(DEC).

> >

> > The mount has to be well polar aligned.

> >

> > Please do also test the King rate: it tracks somewhat slower. This

>is

> > designed to compensate differential refraction at the meridian for

>objects

> > in about 30 degrees altitude. Would be a nice test if sidereal

>tracking is

> > too slow in the north...because of refraction the stars are seldom

>moving

> > at sidereal rate.

> >

> > You could also train the PEC (in Photo mode) to compensate a drift.

> >

> > Rene'

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>



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----------------------------

#2157 Jan 17, 2001

"James A. Thibert" wrote:

> Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?



Jimmy,



Although I don't have any drawings, you really don't need any. What I used

for mine was 6" diameter, 1/4" wall DOM (drawn over mandrel) steel pipe. Sort

of spendy stuff -- a six foot section cost me about $150. I ended up having

to cut it down anyhow to fit into a friend's lathe. The DOM stuff is more

accurately round. On the lathe, we turned down the inside to match up to the

base of the equatorial head. If you're brave, the head all comes apart to the

point where you have just a plate to work with in matching everything up.

We then welded it back together, filled in the seams, ground it smooth, and I

found a local supplier to powder coat it for about $75.

Took it out to the site, set it in concrete with the lower 28" sunk below

grade. Before placing it in concrete, I drilled and tapped some holes near

the bottom of the pipe and screwed four j-bolts in to keep it anchored, and

sealed the bottom of the pipe by wrapping it in heavy plastic to keep the

moisture from seeping into it from the ground.

After it cured (making sure it was plumbed), I set the head in place without

bolts, did a rough polar align that night and marked it to reference it to

north. Next day, I set it back in place, marked for the placement of the bolt

holes (to match the equatorial head) and drilled them in place. I ended up

making them just a bit oversized just in case. Hasn't affected the piers use

at all. I've used it for three years now, and it works like a champ. Photo

(sort of) at www.teleport.com/~argo/web_images/g11_2.JPG





--

Jim Girard

www.teleport.com/~argo



----------------------------

#2158 Jan 17, 2001

In a message dated 1/17/01 5:58:56 PM Central Standard Time,

thibertj@... writes:



< Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?



thanks



Jimmy >>



Jimmy,

I had a pier made last summer to my own design. At the top of the pier, I

have a machined cylinder welded to the 6" Sch. 80 pipe that accepts an

adapter I made to capture the G11 head. During the course of making the

adapter and pier cylinder, I noticed some real peculiar things about my G11.

On mine at least, the three hex cap screws that secure the head to the tripod

are not symmetric. When designing the machined cylinder, I ASSUMED (very bad

practice) that those tapped holes were 120 degrees apart.....NOT! One of the

holes is off by 5-10 degrees. I confirmed this when I tried to put my G11 on

the tripod in an indexed position and it wouldn't go.....it only fits in one

orientation. Anyway, I was surprised, to say the least, and much chagrined

at my sloppy design effort. You always confirm any assumption when possible.

In the end, I have a great working system so all was not lost.



A picture of my setup is under the files directory in Losmandy_users and

called Equipment.jpg. I modeled my pier and G11 adapter in ProE and could

maybe send you some drawings as long as you understand that your actual

measurements (especially diameters, which are critical) may differ

slightly.....as much as 0.020" can cause slop that you wouldn't want. I

wouldn't want to be held responsible for a pile of scrap due to Losmandy

manufacturing tolerances. If I do send a print, I would stress that you go

through every dimension and confirm/change them after making measurements of

your equipment with some calipers.



I machined my own adapter and had the pier made. You could get rid of the

adapter and just go with a machined cylinder at the top of your pier that

will accept the G11 but only the G11. I chose the adapter route so that I

would have the option of putting a different mount on it at some future date

if I decided to.....just machine a new adapter.



I don't claim expertise and am not a machinist...I just hate paying labor

when I think I can do it myself. I had someone else make the pier because I

can't weld two molten clumps of steel together and it only cost me $75 and

shipping:) That was a fancy way of saying I am a cheapskate.



Andy Mc



----------------------------

#2161 Jan 18, 2001

To simplify things, you might want to consider doing what

most of the members in my club do. The pier is made with a

flat top with a single bolt protruding upwards. A Losmandy

part MA (Meade Field Tripod Adapter) is then attached to the

top of the pier using that bolt. Alternatively, if you can

get access to the inside of the pier near the top, then you

can just put a hole in the top of the pier and bolt the

MA to the pier.



Here's the Losmandy description of the MA:



6.0" diameter, 4.0" high. Inside machined to fit G-11 and GM-8

mounts. Tube has 1/2" thick bottom with 1/2" hole in center, posts

for the electronics are mounted on the side. Also used on top of

permanent piers.



See www.losmandy.com/access.html for a picture of the MA.



Dave Kodama



--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, Stargazer275@c... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/17/01 5:58:56 PM Central Standard Time,

> thibertj@h... writes:

>

> < Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?

>

> thanks

>

> Jimmy >>

>

> Jimmy,

> I had a pier made last summer to my own design. At the top of the

pier, I

> have a machined cylinder welded to the 6" Sch. 80 pipe that accepts

an

> adapter I made to capture the G11 head. During the course of making

the

> adapter and pier cylinder, I noticed some real peculiar things about

my G11.

> On mine at least, the three hex cap screws that secure the head to

the tripod

> are not symmetric. When designing the machined cylinder, I ASSUMED

(very bad

> practice) that those tapped holes were 120 degrees apart.....NOT!

One of the

> holes is off by 5-10 degrees. I confirmed this when I tried to put

my G11 on

> the tripod in an indexed position and it wouldn't go.....it only

fits in one

> orientation. Anyway, I was surprised, to say the least, and much

chagrined

> at my sloppy design effort. You always confirm any assumption when

possible.

> In the end, I have a great working system so all was not lost.

>

> A picture of my setup is under the files directory in Losmandy_users

and

> called Equipment.jpg. I modeled my pier and G11 adapter in ProE and

could

> maybe send you some drawings as long as you understand that your

actual

> measurements (especially diameters, which are critical) may differ

> slightly.....as much as 0.020" can cause slop that you wouldn't

want. I

> wouldn't want to be held responsible for a pile of scrap due to

Losmandy

> manufacturing tolerances. If I do send a print, I would stress that

you go

> through every dimension and confirm/change them after making

measurements of

> your equipment with some calipers.

>

> I machined my own adapter and had the pier made. You could get rid

of the

> adapter and just go with a machined cylinder at the top of your pier

that

> will accept the G11 but only the G11. I chose the adapter route so

that I

> would have the option of putting a different mount on it at some

future date

> if I decided to.....just machine a new adapter.

>

> I don't claim expertise and am not a machinist...I just hate paying

labor

> when I think I can do it myself. I had someone else make the pier

because I

> can't weld two molten clumps of steel together and it only cost me

$75 and

> shipping:) That was a fancy way of saying I am a cheapskate.

>

> Andy Mc







----------------------------

#2162 Jan 18, 2001

I'm planning to take the top of the G11 tripod into my local engineering guy

next week and just asking him to make the same thing, a metre long without

the leg connectors and with a baseplate and gussets.



I'll drill the holes myself when I figure out the orientation. Manufacture

should be fairly simple, and I want the drive controller mounting brackets

as well.



Regards



Eddie Trimarchi

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

www.fan.net.au/~eddiet







-----Original Message-----

From: Dave Kodama [mailto:kodama@...]

Sent: Thursday, 18 January 2001 6:10 PM

To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: specs for G-11 pier





To simplify things, you might want to consider doing what

most of the members in my club do. The pier is made with a

flat top with a single bolt protruding upwards. A Losmandy

part MA (Meade Field Tripod Adapter) is then attached to the

top of the pier using that bolt. Alternatively, if you can

get access to the inside of the pier near the top, then you

can just put a hole in the top of the pier and bolt the

MA to the pier.



Here's the Losmandy description of the MA:



6.0" diameter, 4.0" high. Inside machined to fit G-11 and GM-8

mounts. Tube has 1/2" thick bottom with 1/2" hole in center, posts

for the electronics are mounted on the side. Also used on top of

permanent piers.



See www.losmandy.com/access.html for a picture of the MA.



Dave Kodama



--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, Stargazer275@c... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/17/01 5:58:56 PM Central Standard Time,

> thibertj@h... writes:

>

> < Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?

>

> thanks

>

> Jimmy >>

>

> Jimmy,

> I had a pier made last summer to my own design. At the top of the

pier, I

> have a machined cylinder welded to the 6" Sch. 80 pipe that accepts

an

> adapter I made to capture the G11 head. During the course of making

the

> adapter and pier cylinder, I noticed some real peculiar things about

my G11.

> On mine at least, the three hex cap screws that secure the head to

the tripod

> are not symmetric. When designing the machined cylinder, I ASSUMED

(very bad

> practice) that those tapped holes were 120 degrees apart.....NOT!

One of the

> holes is off by 5-10 degrees. I confirmed this when I tried to put

my G11 on

> the tripod in an indexed position and it wouldn't go.....it only

fits in one

> orientation. Anyway, I was surprised, to say the least, and much

chagrined

> at my sloppy design effort. You always confirm any assumption when

possible.

> In the end, I have a great working system so all was not lost.

>

> A picture of my setup is under the files directory in Losmandy_users

and

> called Equipment.jpg. I modeled my pier and G11 adapter in ProE and

could

> maybe send you some drawings as long as you understand that your

actual

> measurements (especially diameters, which are critical) may differ

> slightly.....as much as 0.020" can cause slop that you wouldn't

want. I

> wouldn't want to be held responsible for a pile of scrap due to

Losmandy

> manufacturing tolerances. If I do send a print, I would stress that

you go

> through every dimension and confirm/change them after making

measurements of

> your equipment with some calipers.

>

> I machined my own adapter and had the pier made. You could get rid

of the

> adapter and just go with a machined cylinder at the top of your pier

that

> will accept the G11 but only the G11. I chose the adapter route so

that I

> would have the option of putting a different mount on it at some

future date

> if I decided to.....just machine a new adapter.

>

> I don't claim expertise and am not a machinist...I just hate paying

labor

> when I think I can do it myself. I had someone else make the pier

because I

> can't weld two molten clumps of steel together and it only cost me

$75 and

> shipping:) That was a fancy way of saying I am a cheapskate.

>

> Andy Mc





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com



----------------------------

#2163 Jan 18, 2001

Eddie:

I'd ask you to make two and send me one.... BUT wouldn't it be upside down

way up here?



Good seeing mate



Jimmy



>From: "Eddie Trimarchi" eddiet@...>

>Reply-To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com>

>Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: specs for G-11 pier

>Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 20:27:02 +1000

>

>I'm planning to take the top of the G11 tripod into my local engineering

>guy

>next week and just asking him to make the same thing, a metre long without

>the leg connectors and with a baseplate and gussets.

>

>I'll drill the holes myself when I figure out the orientation. Manufacture

>should be fairly simple, and I want the drive controller mounting brackets

>as well.

>

>Regards

>

>Eddie Trimarchi

>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

>www.fan.net.au/~eddiet

>

>

>

>-----Original Message-----

>From: Dave Kodama [mailto:kodama@...]

>Sent: Thursday, 18 January 2001 6:10 PM

>To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: specs for G-11 pier

>

>

>To simplify things, you might want to consider doing what

>most of the members in my club do. The pier is made with a

>flat top with a single bolt protruding upwards. A Losmandy

>part MA (Meade Field Tripod Adapter) is then attached to the

>top of the pier using that bolt. Alternatively, if you can

>get access to the inside of the pier near the top, then you

>can just put a hole in the top of the pier and bolt the

>MA to the pier.

>

>Here's the Losmandy description of the MA:

>

> 6.0" diameter, 4.0" high. Inside machined to fit G-11 and GM-8

> mounts. Tube has 1/2" thick bottom with 1/2" hole in center, posts

> for the electronics are mounted on the side. Also used on top of

> permanent piers.

>

>See www.losmandy.com/access.html for a picture of the MA.

>

>Dave Kodama

>

>

>--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, Stargazer275@c... wrote:

> > In a message dated 1/17/01 5:58:56 PM Central Standard Time,

> > thibertj@h... writes:

> >

> > < Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?

> >

> > thanks

> >

> > Jimmy >>

> >

> > Jimmy,

> > I had a pier made last summer to my own design. At the top of the

>pier, I

> > have a machined cylinder welded to the 6" Sch. 80 pipe that accepts

>an

> > adapter I made to capture the G11 head. During the course of making

>the

> > adapter and pier cylinder, I noticed some real peculiar things about

>my G11.

> > On mine at least, the three hex cap screws that secure the head to

>the tripod

> > are not symmetric. When designing the machined cylinder, I ASSUMED

>(very bad

> > practice) that those tapped holes were 120 degrees apart.....NOT!

>One of the

> > holes is off by 5-10 degrees. I confirmed this when I tried to put

>my G11 on

> > the tripod in an indexed position and it wouldn't go.....it only

>fits in one

> > orientation. Anyway, I was surprised, to say the least, and much

>chagrined

> > at my sloppy design effort. You always confirm any assumption when

>possible.

> > In the end, I have a great working system so all was not lost.

> >

> > A picture of my setup is under the files directory in Losmandy_users

>and

> > called Equipment.jpg. I modeled my pier and G11 adapter in ProE and

>could

> > maybe send you some drawings as long as you understand that your

>actual

> > measurements (especially diameters, which are critical) may differ

> > slightly.....as much as 0.020" can cause slop that you wouldn't

>want. I

> > wouldn't want to be held responsible for a pile of scrap due to

>Losmandy

> > manufacturing tolerances. If I do send a print, I would stress that

>you go

> > through every dimension and confirm/change them after making

>measurements of

> > your equipment with some calipers.

> >

> > I machined my own adapter and had the pier made. You could get rid

>of the

> > adapter and just go with a machined cylinder at the top of your pier

>that

> > will accept the G11 but only the G11. I chose the adapter route so

>that I

> > would have the option of putting a different mount on it at some

>future date

> > if I decided to.....just machine a new adapter.

> >

> > I don't claim expertise and am not a machinist...I just hate paying

>labor

> > when I think I can do it myself. I had someone else make the pier

>because I

> > can't weld two molten clumps of steel together and it only cost me

>$75 and

> > shipping:) That was a fancy way of saying I am a cheapskate.

> >

> > Andy Mc

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>



---------------

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----------------------------

#2164 Jan 18, 2001

No worries Jim, just mount it on the ceiling.



Regards



Eddie Trimarchi

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

www.fan.net.au/~eddiet







-----Original Message-----

From: James A. Thibert [mailto:thibertj@...]

Sent: Thursday, 18 January 2001 10:38 PM

To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: specs for G-11 pier





Eddie:

I'd ask you to make two and send me one.... BUT wouldn't it be upside down

way up here?



Good seeing mate



Jimmy



>From: "Eddie Trimarchi" eddiet@...>

>Reply-To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com>

>Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: specs for G-11 pier

>Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 20:27:02 +1000

>

>I'm planning to take the top of the G11 tripod into my local engineering

>guy

>next week and just asking him to make the same thing, a metre long without

>the leg connectors and with a baseplate and gussets.

>

>I'll drill the holes myself when I figure out the orientation. Manufacture

>should be fairly simple, and I want the drive controller mounting brackets

>as well.

>

>Regards

>

>Eddie Trimarchi

>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

>www.fan.net.au/~eddiet

>

>

>

>-----Original Message-----

>From: Dave Kodama [mailto:kodama@...]

>Sent: Thursday, 18 January 2001 6:10 PM

>To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: specs for G-11 pier

>

>

>To simplify things, you might want to consider doing what

>most of the members in my club do. The pier is made with a

>flat top with a single bolt protruding upwards. A Losmandy

>part MA (Meade Field Tripod Adapter) is then attached to the

>top of the pier using that bolt. Alternatively, if you can

>get access to the inside of the pier near the top, then you

>can just put a hole in the top of the pier and bolt the

>MA to the pier.

>

>Here's the Losmandy description of the MA:

>

> 6.0" diameter, 4.0" high. Inside machined to fit G-11 and GM-8

> mounts. Tube has 1/2" thick bottom with 1/2" hole in center, posts

> for the electronics are mounted on the side. Also used on top of

> permanent piers.

>

>See www.losmandy.com/access.html for a picture of the MA.

>

>Dave Kodama

>

>

>--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, Stargazer275@c... wrote:

> > In a message dated 1/17/01 5:58:56 PM Central Standard Time,

> > thibertj@h... writes:

> >

> > < Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?

> >

> > thanks

> >

> > Jimmy >>

> >

> > Jimmy,

> > I had a pier made last summer to my own design. At the top of the

>pier, I

> > have a machined cylinder welded to the 6" Sch. 80 pipe that accepts

>an

> > adapter I made to capture the G11 head. During the course of making

>the

> > adapter and pier cylinder, I noticed some real peculiar things about

>my G11.

> > On mine at least, the three hex cap screws that secure the head to

>the tripod

> > are not symmetric. When designing the machined cylinder, I ASSUMED

>(very bad

> > practice) that those tapped holes were 120 degrees apart.....NOT!

>One of the

> > holes is off by 5-10 degrees. I confirmed this when I tried to put

>my G11 on

> > the tripod in an indexed position and it wouldn't go.....it only

>fits in one

> > orientation. Anyway, I was surprised, to say the least, and much

>chagrined

> > at my sloppy design effort. You always confirm any assumption when

>possible.

> > In the end, I have a great working system so all was not lost.

> >

> > A picture of my setup is under the files directory in Losmandy_users

>and

> > called Equipment.jpg. I modeled my pier and G11 adapter in ProE and

>could

> > maybe send you some drawings as long as you understand that your

>actual

> > measurements (especially diameters, which are critical) may differ

> > slightly.....as much as 0.020" can cause slop that you wouldn't

>want. I

> > wouldn't want to be held responsible for a pile of scrap due to

>Losmandy

> > manufacturing tolerances. If I do send a print, I would stress that

>you go

> > through every dimension and confirm/change them after making

>measurements of

> > your equipment with some calipers.

> >

> > I machined my own adapter and had the pier made. You could get rid

>of the

> > adapter and just go with a machined cylinder at the top of your pier

>that

> > will accept the G11 but only the G11. I chose the adapter route so

>that I

> > would have the option of putting a different mount on it at some

>future date

> > if I decided to.....just machine a new adapter.

> >

> > I don't claim expertise and am not a machinist...I just hate paying

>labor

> > when I think I can do it myself. I had someone else make the pier

>because I

> > can't weld two molten clumps of steel together and it only cost me

>$75 and

> > shipping:) That was a fancy way of saying I am a cheapskate.

> >

> > Andy Mc

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>



---------------

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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







----------------------------

#2165 Jan 18, 2001

James:I havea Newtonian mounted on a G11.�� I found a 8.5" OD pipe made of .25"steel.�� I also found 2 - 1 foot square piece of .25" steel for the top andbottom.�� The length of the pipe totally depends on your application.��I made an octagon shape out of one of the steel plate, drilled a .50" hole inthe center for the Losmandy permanent pier adapter.�� This was the top ofthe pier where the mount attaches.�� I drilled 4 - .50" holes in the otherplate 1" from each corner.�� I also drilled a .50" hole in the very centerof this plate in case any water gets into the pier.�� This was the bottomplate of the pier.�� I also cut a 5" square hole in the pipe at themount-end of the pipe so I will be able to get access to the bolt that holds theLosmandy permanent pier adapter in place.Iwelded the plates to the top and bottom of the pipe making sure they arecentered perfectly on the pipe.�� I also got 8 - 1 inch wide strips of .25steel and welded them vertically on the pipe and the bottom plate todistribtue��the weight better on the bottom plate.Thepier weight close to 100lbs.�� It was deliberately over-built so I could useit when I get an 18" Newtonian and the heavy duty Losmandy mount.�� But thatwill be way, way, way in the future.It wasa fun project because I was able to play with a welder!GoodLuck on yours!Eric-----Original Message-----From: James A. Thibert[mailto:thibertj@...]Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 6:30PMTo: Losmandy_users@egroups.comSubject:[Losmandy_users] specs for G-11 pier



Does anyonehave specs or drawings for a pier for theg-11?

thanks

Jimmy

>From: "Scott Losmandy"scott@...>>Reply-To:Losmandy_users@egroups.com>To:Losmandy_users@egroups.com>Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: More Geminitests>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:22:26-0000>>Hello>We have found that if you are checking thetracking rate with a SCT>there are lots of problem. The best way tocheck, is with a>refractor.>I have seen this problem many timesbefore, the mirror moving at a>constant rate, making it look as if themount was not tracking.>Scott>>--- InLosmandy_users@egroups.com, goerlich@t... wrote:> > Rich,>>> > > I had exactly the same problem (tracking slightly toofast)when I> > > tested the Gemini on my HGM-200 mount. The stardid not leave the> > > eyepiece FOV however, it just kept movingslightly ahead of the> > > guiding box in the reticle. I triedtracking different> > > stars which were generally not far fromthe meridian and noted the> > > same drift each time. The mountwas aligned using declination>drift> > > so I don'tunderstand why the mount was tracking fast.> > >> >> Rene', is there an explanation for this?> >> > Oneeffect I know of: after positioning to a star it ismoving>slightly> > in RA until the force and friction betweenthe RA worm and the>tooth>flanc> > stabilizes. To keepit stable, the mount is usually slightly>disbalanced> > in RAthat the worm pushes the toothed wheel.> > That could describe aslow but limited drift.> >> > If the tracking is too fast,the star will leave the FOV. If that>happens> > I would needto know the speed of the drift. The data I need: your> > location,which object used, UTC date and time, time the object>needs>> to drift from the crosshair (middle) of your eyepiece to theedge,> > the FOV used (you can position slightly to the west, switchthe>tracking> > off and measure the time it takes the objectfrom the middle to the>edge.> > Best is if the object is atthe equator, if not, the true FOV can be> > calculated by dividingby cos(DEC).> >> > The mount has to be well polaraligned.> >> > Please do also test the King rate: ittracks somewhat slower. This>is> > designed to compensatedifferential refraction at the meridian for>objects> > inabout 30 degrees altitude. Would be a nice test if sidereal>trackingis> > too slow in the north...because of refraction the stars areseldom>moving> > at sidereal rate.> >> >You could also train the PEC (in Photo mode) to compensate a drift.>>> > Rene'>>>To unsubscribe from this group,send an emailto:>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com>>>

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Tounsubscribe from this group, send an emailto:Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com



----------------------------

#2166 Jan 18, 2001

thanks Eric

sounds like the losmandy pier adapter is the easiest way to go.



Jimmy

>From: "Eric Weller" eric718@...>

>Reply-To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

>To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com>

>Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] specs for G-11 pier

>Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:38:15 -0500

>

>James:

>I have a Newtonian mounted on a G11. I found a 8.5" OD pipe made of .25"

>steel. I also found 2 - 1 foot square piece of .25" steel for the top and

>bottom. The length of the pipe totally depends on your application. I

>made

>an octagon shape out of one of the steel plate, drilled a .50" hole in the

>center for the Losmandy permanent pier adapter. This was the top of the

>pier where the mount attaches. I drilled 4 - .50" holes in the other plate

>1" from each corner. I also drilled a .50" hole in the very center of this

>plate in case any water gets into the pier. This was the bottom plate of

>the pier. I also cut a 5" square hole in the pipe at the mount-end of the

>pipe so I will be able to get access to the bolt that holds the Losmandy

>permanent pier adapter in place.

>I welded the plates to the top and bottom of the pipe making sure they are

>centered perfectly on the pipe. I also got 8 - 1 inch wide strips of .25

>steel and welded them vertically on the pipe and the bottom plate to

>distribtue the weight better on the bottom plate.

>The pier weight close to 100lbs. It was deliberately over-built so I could

>use it when I get an 18" Newtonian and the heavy duty Losmandy mount. But

>that will be way, way, way in the future.

>It was a fun project because I was able to play with a welder!

>Good Luck on yours!

>Eric

> -----Original Message-----

> From: James A. Thibert [mailto:thibertj@...]

> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 6:30 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] specs for G-11 pier

>

>

>

> Does anyone have specs or drawings for a pier for the g-11?

>

> thanks

>

> Jimmy

>

> >From: "Scott Losmandy" scott@...>

> >Reply-To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

> >To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

> >Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: More Gemini tests

> >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:22:26 -0000

> >

> >Hello

> >We have found that if you are checking the tracking rate with a SCT

> >there are lots of problem. The best way to check, is with a

> >refractor.

> >I have seen this problem many times before, the mirror moving at a

> >constant rate, making it look as if the mount was not tracking.

> >Scott

> >

> >--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, goerlich@t... wrote:

> > > Rich,

> > >

> > > > I had exactly the same problem (tracking slightly too fast)when I

> > > > tested the Gemini on my HGM-200 mount. The star did not leave the

> > > > eyepiece FOV however, it just kept moving slightly ahead of the

> > > > guiding box in the reticle. I tried tracking different

> > > > stars which were generally not far from the meridian and noted the

> > > > same drift each time. The mount was aligned using declination

> >drift

> > > > so I don't understand why the mount was tracking fast.

> > > >

> > > > Rene', is there an explanation for this?

> > >

> > > One effect I know of: after positioning to a star it is moving

> >slightly

> > > in RA until the force and friction between the RA worm and the

> >tooth

> >flanc

> > > stabilizes. To keep it stable, the mount is usually slightly

> >disbalanced

> > > in RA that the worm pushes the toothed wheel.

> > > That could describe a slow but limited drift.

> > >

> > > If the tracking is too fast, the star will leave the FOV. If that

> >happens

> > > I would need to know the speed of the drift. The data I need: your

> > > location, which object used, UTC date and time, time the object

> >needs

> > > to drift from the crosshair (middle) of your eyepiece to the edge,

> > > the FOV used (you can position slightly to the west, switch the

> >tracking

> > > off and measure the time it takes the object from the middle to the

> >edge.

> > > Best is if the object is at the equator, if not, the true FOV can be

> > > calculated by dividing by cos(DEC).

> > >

> > > The mount has to be well polar aligned.

> > >

> > > Please do also test the King rate: it tracks somewhat slower. This

> >is

> > > designed to compensate differential refraction at the meridian for

> >objects

> > > in about 30 degrees altitude. Would be a nice test if sidereal

> >tracking is

> > > too slow in the north...because of refraction the stars are seldom

> >moving

> > > at sidereal rate.

> > >

> > > You could also train the PEC (in Photo mode) to compensate a drift.

> > >

> > > Rene'

> >

> >

> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> >Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >

>

>

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>

>

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>

>



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----------------------------

#2169 Jan 18, 2001

"James A. Thibert" wrote:

> sounds like the losmandy pier adapter is the easiest way to go.



Jimmy,



While it may be the easiest way to go, last I heard (a few months ago), they

weren't readily available. If they are currently available, I'd like to get one

for a pier I want to put in in my back yard. So if someone out there in the know

could comment on their availability, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.



--

Jim Girard

www.teleport.com/~argo



----------------------------

#2171 Jan 18, 2001

If you are more inclined to buy than make, Le Sueur Manufacturing has

a very nice pier for the G-11 that I have in my observatory. It

looks just like the G-11 tripod top with 3 holes to bolt the head on,

and a bracket to mount the electronics. They are at

www.astropier.com



Dave

--- In Losmandy_users@egroups.com, Jim Girard argo@t...> wrote:

> "James A. Thibert" wrote:

>

> > sounds like the losmandy pier adapter is the easiest way to go.

>

> Jimmy,

>

> While it may be the easiest way to go, last I heard (a few months

ago), they

> weren't readily available. If they are currently available, I'd

like to get one

> for a pier I want to put in in my back yard. So if someone out

there in the know

> could comment on their availability, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

>

> --

> Jim Girard

> www.teleport.com/~argo



----------------------------

#2174 Jan 18, 2001

Hi All����������������Just one small note of caution.��Most fast drying or curing concreteproducts do not dry as hard as products with slower��curing characteristicsand they tend to be more susceptible to cracking. I doubt it would make muchdiff. on a pier but 2 extra days wait for the cement to��cure might be worthit in the long run especially if��it is exposed to the elements. Water inthe cracks and freezing could cause problems. I would also recommend that wherethe pier attaches to the concrete be held up from direct contact to the concreteso rust is not an issue ( treated wood would work ). Forgive for being aperfectionist, but I can't get the old builder out of me. :)ThanksDoug Schmutzwww.infowest.com/personal/s/schmutz/



----------------------------

#2175 Jan 18, 2001

Jim:I gotmine from Anacortes for about $80.�� There was no waitingperiod.��-----Original Message-----From: Jim Girard[mailto:argo@...]Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:00PMTo: Losmandy_users@egroups.comSubject: Re:[Losmandy_users] specs for G-11 pier

"James A.Thibert" wrote:

> sounds like the losmandy pier adapter is theeasiest way to go.

Jimmy,

While it may be the easiest way to go,last I heard (a few months ago), theyweren't readily available. If theyare currently available, I'd like to get onefor a pier I want to put in inmy back yard. So if someone out there in the knowcould comment on theiravailability, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

--Jim Girardwww.teleport.com/~argo



Tounsubscribe from this group, send an emailto:Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com



----------------------------

#2460 Jan 31, 2001

Steve,



I saw your note on the losmandy mailing list a bit ago about your

pier configuration. As it turns out, I'm in a very similar situation

as you; I have a G-11 mount currently, and am expecting a 900GTO this

July.



I'm interested in installing a pier in my backyard, and was wondering

where you got the adapter to go between the larger pier for the 900GTO

and the G-11 head?



I've also got an older Vixen SP-DX mount, and one of these things has

to go when the 900GTO arrives! I'm thinking maybe the G-11, as the

Vixen mount is much easier to carry and set-up for those "quick looks"

as compared to the G-11. Of course, with a pier, that advantage might be

gone, sigh.



FYI, I've got a Celestron 9.25" SCT and an Astro-Physics Star 12ED. It's

the CCD camera the drove me to the 900GTO.



Thanks in advance for your help.



Louis Mamakos



----------------------------

#2461 Jan 31, 2001

Duh. Sorry, that message was supposed to have been a private message,

but I didn't notice the @!$% Reply-To: header that the mailing list

reflector sticks in.



louie



P.S. I would implore those setting up mailing lists to visit

www.unicom.com/pw/reply-to-harmful.html which discusses this

particular issue..



----------------------------

#5881 Sep 9, 2001

I am planning to place my G-11 on a permanent pier in my back yard. I plan

to place the pier in concrete. Are there any commercially available piers

6' or so in length that are drilled to fit the G-11 head? Any other ideas?

Thanks.



----------------------------

#5884 Sep 9, 2001

Hi Dave



Losmandy used to make a permanent pier but discontinued this several

years ago. When I called Losmandy researching the pier I was referred to

Astropier, manufactured by the Le Seur Manufacturing Co. They have ads

in Sky and Telescope and can be reached on the web

at...www.Astropier.com.



Hope this helps



Patrick Kelly



Dave Tandy wrote: >

> I am planning to place my G-11 on a permanent pier in my back yard. I plan

> to place the pier in concrete. Are there any commercially available piers

> 6' or so in length that are drilled to fit the G-11 head? Any other ideas?

> Thanks.

>



>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#5886 Sep 9, 2001

As another ,Patrick Kelly, already offered, the

Astropier is a fine solution. I have my G11 head attached

to one. For details on our installation see:

www.regulusastro.com/regulus/observatory/index.html

Be sure to go to the pier construction page.

They will make it to order (height).

~johnb



Dave Tandy wrote: >

> I am planning to place my G-11 on a permanent pier in my back yard. I plan

> to place the pier in concrete. Are there any commercially available piers

> 6' or so in length that are drilled to fit the G-11 head? Any other ideas?

> Thanks.



---------------

John A. Blackwell

johnb@...

www.regulusastro.com/

Northwood Ridge Observatory (MPC #225)

Home of Regulus! The Astronomy Newsletter

---------------



----------------------------

#5887 Sep 9, 2001

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Dave Tandy" dtandy@k...> wrote: > I am planning to place my G-11 on a permanent pier in my back

yard. I plan > to place the pier in concrete. Are there any commercially

available piers > 6' or so in length that are drilled to fit the G-11 head? Any

other ideas? > Thanks.



Dave,



I put a steel pier in concete in my backyard this summer. I had one

built at a local weld shop for $225. I used the same dimensions as

the regular G11 pier for height. I got one of the Meade Field tripod

adapters from Anacortes for $65. By the time I bought the j bolts

and concrete and paint I had around $315 invested all total. You can

see a picture of my pier on the C9-25 egroup or use this link:



photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C9-25/lst



One of the pier sellers has a web site, I have since forgot, that

shows how to build a jig to hold your j bolts in place while putting

them in the concrete. My finished pier is rock solid with the whole

rig, scope and all having less than 1/2 second settle time for a bump.



If you check out the piture you will see a wood enclosure I built to

go over the pier. It supports my battery and a work table that holds

eyepieces, the gemini, drinks etc.



BTW, if you do go do it yourself I use a painted coffee can ( the #6

can size) to cover the Meade adapter when not in use so it doesn't

fill with rain.



I have found this pier to be a god send. The G11 head will hold a

reasonable polar alignment when removed and reinstalled several

times. If you have a Gemini you don't have to do anything but set up

and align on your first star.



Good luck.



Gary



----------------------------

#6792 Nov 18, 2001

In a message dated 11/18/01 1:36:15 PM Central Standard Time, gardner.w@... writes:





Any information, descriptions or images that you may have on web sites

would greatly be appreciated. ��Of course if there are things that I haven't

thought of yet, that I should know about, that would also be greatly

appreciated.



TIA,



Bill Gardner











Bill,

I machined my own adapter out of aluminum and had a steel pier made out of 6" cast iron pipe and 1/4" plate steel. ��The pier itself is actually not in direct contact with my concrete footing.....I fashioned three j-bolts out of 1" galvanized threaded rod and set them in the wet concrete of the footing with about 6 inches of threaded rod sticking up out of the concrete. ��The spacing and perpendicularity of the j-bolts was controlled by a jig I made out of some particle board I had laying about. ��Once the concrete had set, I threaded on some galvanized nuts onto the rods, stacked several galvanized washers on the nuts, placed the pier, added more washers, and lastly the top nuts to capture the whole thing. ��To balance, I loosen/tighten the corresponding nuts until it is dead on (as indicated by the bubble level in the mount). ��I set the level on my mount last summer and it has stayed there since.



I sent Jimmy Thibert of this group plans of the pier last winter and he seemed pleased with the outcome. ��The trick is being able to find schedule 120, 6" cast iron pipe. ��If you can do that, you don't need an adapter for the mount. ��You can machine the mating features directly into the pipe.



The only concern I would have about this setup is if the pipe is real long then it would act like a tuning fork even with sand in it. ��Jimmy put in lead blocks between the pier and concrete so his is isolated from surrounding sources of vibration. ��I, Jimmy may have as well, put sand inside my pier to help dampen vibration sources within the pier itself....accidental contact by myself mainly. ��Still, our piers our relatively short, 36" for mine and if memory serves me, around 42" for Jimmy's. ��You can check out his setup at his website which is: ��www.frenchriverobservatory.com. ��The thing I would recommend is keep your pier short and if you are going to a second floor or something then extend your concrete footing up to that level with sonotube and rebar.



I had a picture of my setup in the Member's Equipment folder of the SCT-users group but it may be gone now. ��How this helps a little.



Andy Mc



----------------------------

#7444 Dec 26, 2001

Ok, now I'm no genius at this, and that's why I'm posting this here.



I, like many others would like to have at least a permenant pier (for all the obvious reasons), but being a renter, that's not going to happen, so I thought if I can't make a pier permenant, can I make the G-11 tripod "permenant" and here's what I came up with:



In the following picture from the accessory tray folder of files section, I saw this nice view of the top part of the G--11 tripod:



groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Accessory%20Tray/tray2-top.jpg

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Accessory%20Tray/tray4-st4.jpg



However instead of running a bolt to an accessory tray, why not a cable or rod straight down to the ground that is hooked into an anchor in the ground that can be tightened up like just the tray (and perhaps even locked). I have lots of concrete all around, and it would seem to me that something like these mechanical concrete anchors:



www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/wa-main.htm



would be simple enough for even me to install without much fuss, mess, or pollution to the landscape, and also be easily removed. According to the specs these little wonders can handle over 1000 pounds of tensile strength, so it should be able to hold the tripod in place quite firmly, for good, and with fixed height tripod legs there would be no worry about the legs creeping shorter.



Now the question of course, is can the tripod be left outside without rusting?



Other things can be done, such as fill the legs with sand, using dampeners under the legs, etc. but that can all be experimented with later as long as the basic pricnciple is sound.



And if I really wanted to make it "clean" 3 cables could be used, one down each tripod leg, and still leave the tripod "open" for a tray. Even the Losmandy 12" tripod extention (i.e. the short pier that sits on top of the tripod) could be used and other trays could be clamped on to it.



This seems so simple but I've never seen it even mentioned before, so what am I missing here? Why won't this work?



TIA







----------------------------

#7454 Dec 26, 2001

My G11 was left out of doors (including all electronics), under a water

proof tarp for almost one year. No problems.



Wayne ----- Original Message -----

From: "gcne67" tstk1@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 3:17 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Quick and dirty "Permenant Pier"?





> Ok, now I'm no genius at this, and that's why I'm posting this here.

>

> I, like many others would like to have at least a permenant pier (for all

the obvious reasons), but being a renter, that's not going to happen, so I

thought if I can't make a pier permenant, can I make the G-11 tripod

"permenant" and here's what I came up with:

>

> In the following picture from the accessory tray folder of files section,

I saw this nice view of the top part of the G--11 tripod:

>

>

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Accessory%20Tray/tray2-to

p.jpg

>

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Accessory%20Tray/tray4-st

4.jpg

>

> However instead of running a bolt to an accessory tray, why not a cable or

rod straight down to the ground that is hooked into an anchor in the ground

that can be tightened up like just the tray (and perhaps even locked). I

have lots of concrete all around, and it would seem to me that something

like these mechanical concrete anchors:

>

> www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/wa-main.htm

>

> would be simple enough for even me to install without much fuss, mess, or

pollution to the landscape, and also be easily removed. According to the

specs these little wonders can handle over 1000 pounds of tensile strength,

so it should be able to hold the tripod in place quite firmly, for good, and

with fixed height tripod legs there would be no worry about the legs

creeping shorter.

>

> Now the question of course, is can the tripod be left outside without

rusting?

>

> Other things can be done, such as fill the legs with sand, using dampeners

under the legs, etc. but that can all be experimented with later as long as

the basic pricnciple is sound.

>

> And if I really wanted to make it "clean" 3 cables could be used, one down

each tripod leg, and still leave the tripod "open" for a tray. Even the

Losmandy 12" tripod extention (i.e. the short pier that sits on top of the

tripod) could be used and other trays could be clamped on to it.

>

> This seems so simple but I've never seen it even mentioned before, so what

am I missing here? Why won't this work?

>

> TIA

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#7461 Dec 26, 2001

Thanks for your reply.



Yes it seems from what I've read in many places, this is not an issue. So that looks good.



Even if I do say so myself, I think this is an excellent solution for those who observe from home, but can't sink a permenant pier for one reason or another, but have some concrete or wood patios or walk ways which they can put an anchor into.



I have found some anchors that can easily be removed (leaving behind a "nut" in the concrete) as well, so if you change your mind and want to move you observing spot, all that's left is a small 1/2" or so hole that can be filled with a replacment plug.



Once the tripod is aligned and anchored (by the tightened cable or rod) you get the same benifits as for a permenant pier (without the cost and work to sink a pier): fast setup, increased stability and virtually instant perfect polar alignement. And unlike leaving an un-anchored tripod outside, you don't have to worry if it has been moved or blown over, etc. You can even be a little clumsy around the tripod at night.



It may not be as stable as a permenant pier, but it certainly eliminates the main problems with portable mountings when observing from home and it has to improve stability of the tripod to some degree. The G-11 tripod is quite massive, so it may even end up close to a pier in stability.



I wonder if high frequency vibrations will be a problem with the tripod being pulled down tightly? Perhaps it rest on wood or rubber to dampen them out or the legs could be filled with sand (I've heard opposing points of view on that issue on for un-anchored tripods) or perhaps it does need to be pulled too tight, just enough to hold it firmly in place..



The idea can also be used with these folks' piers for Losmandy, Vixen, etc, as well by running a cable down the center of the pier. Just need an anchor inside the pier to fasten the tightening bolt to, but I think they can add that in while making the pier:



www.astromeccanica.it/tripod_&_pier.htm



. I think a tripod like the G-11 can handle the little extra stress from being pulled down without too much problem as it's rated for 300 lbs and the head weighs 35lbs + say (as an extreme) 50lb load and +25lbs counterweights = only 110lbs. So being pulled down with a force of even 50-75lbs shouldn't be a problem.



I'm still surprised I haven't run into this before, or perhaps there's something so obviously wrong the idea that escapes me



Any ideas?



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Wayne F. Rocheleau" dveterinarian@w...> wrote:

> My G11 was left out of doors (including all electronics), under a water

> proof tarp for almost one year. No problems.

>

> Wayne

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "gcne67" tstk1@a...>

> To: Losmandy_users@y...>

> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 3:17 PM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Quick and dirty "Permenant Pier"?

>

>

> > Ok, now I'm no genius at this, and that's why I'm posting this here.

> >

> > I, like many others would like to have at least a permenant pier (for all

> the obvious reasons), but being a renter, that's not going to happen, so I

> thought if I can't make a pier permenant, can I make the G-11 tripod

> "permenant" and here's what I came up with:

> >

> > In the following picture from the accessory tray folder of files section,

> I saw this nice view of the top part of the G--11 tripod:

> >

> >

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Accessory%20Tray/tray2-to

> p.jpg

> >

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Accessory%20Tray/tray4-st

> 4.jpg

> >

> > However instead of running a bolt to an accessory tray, why not a cable or

> rod straight down to the ground that is hooked into an anchor in the ground

> that can be tightened up like just the tray (and perhaps even locked). I

> have lots of concrete all around, and it would seem to me that something

> like these mechanical concrete anchors:

> >

> > www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/wa-main.htm

> >

> > would be simple enough for even me to install without much fuss, mess, or

> pollution to the landscape, and also be easily removed. According to the

> specs these little wonders can handle over 1000 pounds of tensile strength,

> so it should be able to hold the tripod in place quite firmly, for good, and

> with fixed height tripod legs there would be no worry about the legs

> creeping shorter.

> >

> > Now the question of course, is can the tripod be left outside without

> rusting?

> >

> > Other things can be done, such as fill the legs with sand, using dampeners

> under the legs, etc. but that can all be experimented with later as long as

> the basic pricnciple is sound.

> >

> > And if I really wanted to make it "clean" 3 cables could be used, one down

> each tripod leg, and still leave the tripod "open" for a tray. Even the

> Losmandy 12" tripod extention (i.e. the short pier that sits on top of the

> tripod) could be used and other trays could be clamped on to it.

> >

> > This seems so simple but I've never seen it even mentioned before, so what

> am I missing here? Why won't this work?

> >

> > TIA

> >

> >

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

> >

> >

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >







----------------------------

#7462 Dec 26, 2001

Taking this idea further, it just struck me, what if you turn this thing around instead of a 3 legs and one cable, what if you have one leg and three cables.



So you get say a 6" diameter, 3/8" wall steel tube, have the top machined fit the head, and have 3 beefy anchor points add, like those near the top of the AP pier:



www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/mounting_acc/mounting_acc



Then to hold it in place use three diagonal braces (cables or rods) under tension (just like the AP pier), but the ends are attached to concrete anchors in the ground (sort of like a radio tower).



I reckon that this "permenant pier" should not move anywhere, and you could make it as firm as you want without worrying about the tripod "buckling".



High frequency fibrations again might be a problem, but perhaps the pier could be placed on something or filled with sand.



----------------------------

#7464 Dec 27, 2001

After a little more investigation, apparantly there are anchors that work in regular soil! Clever little buggers. They are used to anchor guy lines for trees, amateur radio towers, weather instrument towers, fence posts, tie down picknick tables, etc., are simple to install and are cheap ($5-$20 each).



Break strength of 1000lbs to 2000lbs or more can be achieved in most soils by choosing the right sized anchor.



This means the idea of anchoring tripods or "piers" can probably work on soil too. On grassy or damp areas some kind of pad under each leg will probably be needed to dissapate the load so the legs don't get driven into the ground by the anchor cable tension.



There seem to be two basic styles: earth screw and "duckbill":



shop.cki.com/nrg/shop.cgi/default14281/item/towers/anchors/2067

www.glenmartin.com/Hazer/pg7.htm

www.benmeadows.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-152120.html?L+scstore+wfuj8506+1009476206

csf.colorado.edu/archive/1999/energy/msg01800.html



www.earthanchor.com/duckprod.html

www.benmeadows.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-152140.html?L+scstore+wfuj8506+1009449285

www.kencove.com/eanc.htm



----------------------------

#7466 Dec 27, 2001

In a message dated 12/26/01 5:31:42 PM Central Standard Time,

dveterinarian@... writes:



> My G11 was left out of doors (including all electronics), under a water

> proof tarp for almost one year. No problems.

>

> Wayne

>



Same here.....except my elapsed time is 2 years and counting. The only

corrosion I have encountered is on the RA and DEC clutch spring washers as

they are raw spring steel. Still even those have only very small amounts of

rust on them because I periodically oil them down. In the last two months,

we have had over 20" of rain and the G11 weathers very well through it all.



Andy Mc





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10238 May 19, 2002

Hi all,



I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am currently

putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to switch back to GEM

instead of the darn forks I've been fighting with for years. So after

looking for a GEM to use, looks like the G11 is going to be it. Now

for the question, can someone tell me the inside diameter of the top

of the upper tripod where the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier

from LeSeur

but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier any

cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info on

this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.



Thanks,

Glen



----------------------------

#10244 May 19, 2002

let us know what you find out.. the way I look at it is that it should

not cost much to have a large pipe turned to the proper inside

diameter at a machine shop.



"madmaxxx47362" dernedid@...> wrote:

>I am pricing a pier

>from LeSeur

>but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier any

>cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info on

>this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.



Herm

Astropics home.att.net/~hermperez



----------------------------

#10250 May 19, 2002

In a message dated 5/19/02 10:57:57 AM Central Daylight Time,

dernedid@... writes:



> I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am currently

> putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to switch back to GEM

> instead of the darn forks I've been fighting with for years. So after

> looking for a GEM to use, looks like the G11 is going to be it. Now

> for the question, can someone tell me the inside diameter of the top

> of the upper tripod where the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier

> from LeSeur

> but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier any

> cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info on

> this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.

>

> Thanks,

> Glen

>



Glen,

The I.D. of the tripod is 5.530 inches. I had a tripod made that I designed

rather than pay the "high" prices that LeSeur charges. My cost of

fabrication and material was $75 for the pier. The pier weighs 130 pounds so

getting it shipped to me was another $50. It was primered black when I got

it but I finished it in a Metallic Blue automotive paint (7 coats) and a

clear coat (5 coats) for about $20. I had the pier made out of a 36 inch

long 6" Schedule 120 cast iron pipe with a 1/4" base plate. I use an

aluminum adapter, that I machined at work from a piece of scrap, between the

pier and mount in case I ever change mounts all I have to do is machine

another adapter rather than fabricate a new pier. The pier is mounted on

some bolts sticking out of 1000 lbs of concrete that I mixed up and poured.

So, the short answer is yes, if you are willing to do some or all of the work

and have the know-how then generally you can save substantial amounts of

money by doing it yourself. On things like this and building an observatory,

my next project, I will do it myself cause I know my abilities and I hate

spending extra money on stuff I can do myself. That is why I roofed my own

house, sided it, put in new windows, added a screened in porch, deck, patio,

and privacy fence, and built my kid one of those 2 story yard forts/playhouse

things. Of course, when I am doing those things, even though I am saving

money I don't have much energy left for astronomy g>. So, pick your poison : >)))



Regards,

Andy McDavid





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#10254 May 19, 2002

I made my pier for an LX200, so on top had a 0.5 inch UNC bolt

sticking out of the top plate welded to an 8 inch steel pipe filled

with dry sand. I machined up an aluminium adapter for the G-11 out of

a 6 inch dia aluminium alloy billet. I wanted a good fit to the base

of the G-11, mine having a diameter of 5.5130 inches and a depth of

0.9915 inches. I machined the internal size of the adapter to 5.5180

inches to a depth of 1.0 inch plus room for the head of a 0.5 inch

UNC nut and washer. The mounting screws for G-11 are 3/8 diam, at 120

deg spacing around the adapter. The reference screw is aligned with

the CWD position, or North in the northern hemisphere (South

otherwise). Drill the holes with a 3/8 inch drill with centres 0.497

inches (nominal 0.5 inches) below the edge of the adapter.



The advantage of an adapter separate to the pier is that you can

rotate it to get good azimuth alignment. I found this useful (apart

from having an existing pier) because I move the G-11 between two

sites and wish not to have to redo the polar alignment with each move

(hence the precision in the adapters).



If you have only one pier and you're going to use 6 inch dia pipe,

then you may wish to loosen up the dimensions to machine the internal

diamter of the pipe to 5.55 inches and be prepared to drill the

locating screws somewhat oversize at the nominal 1/2 inch below the

lip. Make sure you drill the holes spaced so that one hole is due

north (or south)which you might prefer to do after the pier is

screwed down (get your machinist to scribe a line at the correct

depth below the lip).



I can send you a sketch if this description isn't adequate.



Serena



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "madmaxxx47362" dernedid@y...> wrote:

> Hi all,

>

> I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am

currently

> putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to switch back to

GEM

> instead of the darn forks I've been fighting with for years. So

after

> looking for a GEM to use, looks like the G11 is going to be it. Now

> for the question, can someone tell me the inside diameter of the top

> of the upper tripod where the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier

> from LeSeur

> but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier

any

> cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info on

> this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.

>

> Thanks,

> Glen



----------------------------

#10257 May 19, 2002

Can't ask for a better description than that, Thanks!!! and I hope its

warmer there than it is here, 34degF some late spring this is:-(

Thanks,

Glen

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "serena_aussie" Serena.Steuart@b...> wrote:

> I made my pier for an LX200, so on top had a 0.5 inch UNC bolt

> sticking out of the top plate welded to an 8 inch steel pipe filled

> with dry sand. I machined up an aluminium adapter for the G-11 out of

> a 6 inch dia aluminium alloy billet. I wanted a good fit to the base

> of the G-11, mine having a diameter of 5.5130 inches and a depth of

> 0.9915 inches. I machined the internal size of the adapter to 5.5180

> inches to a depth of 1.0 inch plus room for the head of a 0.5 inch

> UNC nut and washer. The mounting screws for G-11 are 3/8 diam, at 120

> deg spacing around the adapter. The reference screw is aligned with

> the CWD position, or North in the northern hemisphere (South

> otherwise). Drill the holes with a 3/8 inch drill with centres 0.497

> inches (nominal 0.5 inches) below the edge of the adapter.

>

> The advantage of an adapter separate to the pier is that you can

> rotate it to get good azimuth alignment. I found this useful (apart

> from having an existing pier) because I move the G-11 between two

> sites and wish not to have to redo the polar alignment with each move

> (hence the precision in the adapters).

>

> If you have only one pier and you're going to use 6 inch dia pipe,

> then you may wish to loosen up the dimensions to machine the internal

> diamter of the pipe to 5.55 inches and be prepared to drill the

> locating screws somewhat oversize at the nominal 1/2 inch below the

> lip. Make sure you drill the holes spaced so that one hole is due

> north (or south)which you might prefer to do after the pier is

> screwed down (get your machinist to scribe a line at the correct

> depth below the lip).

>

> I can send you a sketch if this description isn't adequate.

>

> Serena

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "madmaxxx47362" dernedid@y...> wrote:

> > Hi all,

> >

> > I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am

> currently

> > putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to switch back to

> GEM

> > instead of the darn forks I've been fighting with for years. So

> after

> > looking for a GEM to use, looks like the G11 is going to be it. Now

> > for the question, can someone tell me the inside diameter of the top

> > of the upper tripod where the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier

> > from LeSeur

> > but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier

> any

> > cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info on

> > this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.

> >

> > Thanks,

> > Glen







----------------------------

#10258 May 20, 2002

Hi all,

>

> I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am

> currently putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to

> switch back to GEM instead of the darn forks I've been fighting

> with for years. So after looking for a GEM to use, looks like

> the G11 is going to be it. Now for the question, can someone

> tell me the inside diameter of the top of the upper tripod where

> the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier from LeSeur

> but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the

> pier any cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all

> the good info on this group, I feel somewhat familiar with

> the mount already.

>

> Thanks,

> Glen

Did exactly this myself. The part the head wants to fit into, needs to be

5.5" ID, with three 3/8" slots descending 0.5" (centre of hole) from the

top edge - so the bottom of the slot is at 0.675" from the top of the

tube. They should then 'dogleg' by about 3/8" at this depth. The tube

needs a minimum depth of 1". Since the top of the pier I allready had was

fitted to take a LX200, I made a solid aluminium adapter plate, with this

tube on it, which can if needed also be fitted to the LX200 giant field

tripod.

The diameter should be _fractionally_ over this size (perhaps 5.515),

otherwise the fit will be too tight. Also the dogleg holes, must 'err' on

the side of being slightly too shallow rather than too deep. The actual

diameter clearance needed will vary slightly with different materials,

since (for instance) if your pier is in aluminium, both the head and the

pier should have similar thermal expansion co-efficients, but if the pier

is in a material with a lower thermal expansion rate, and the cutting is

done in cold weather, then in hot conditions the head will expand a little

more than the tube, and the fit may become uncomfortably tight.

I see another poster has said 5.530, this sounds uncomfortably 'loose' to

me. :-)



Best Wishes



----------------------------

#10271 May 20, 2002

One thing of which you need to be careful is manufacturing tolerances

when making a fitting for an unseen mating item. The parts we're

discussing are not critical and there is no particular need to hold

tight tolerances. My tripod head, for example, is not precisely round

(distorted by welding after machining) and has a minimum diameter of

5.5240 and a max of 5.5370. My G-11 base is 5.5130 diameter.

When I enquired (in a similar search) I was told 5.55 inches by

another user. The G-11 is located by resting on the top edge of the

pier (or tripod) and held laterally by the 3 screws. Once the screws

are done up the head is fixed in place even if the pier fitting is

somewhat generous in its diameter (but you'll have to do an alignment

every time you put the G-11 back on the pier).



If you want the screws to locate the the head accurately on the pier

(because you are going to take it on and off) then I suggest not

slotting the holes. Or you could drill and ream a locating pin to be

inserted before tightening the screws in a defined sequence. I don't

find completely removing the screws to be any trouble, although I

guess it does add a small risk of dropping and losing them.



You might wish to ask Scott to tell you the nominal diameter of the G-

11 base and tolerance to which he makes them. The present

contributors agree that 5.530 is a maximum diameter in their sample

set.



Serena

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Roger Hamlett" ttelmah@n...> wrote:

> > Hi all,

> >

> > I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am

> > currently putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to

> > switch back to GEM instead of the darn forks I've been fighting

> > with for years. So after looking for a GEM to use, looks like

> > the G11 is going to be it. Now for the question, can someone

> > tell me the inside diameter of the top of the upper tripod where

> > the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier from LeSeur

> > but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the

> > pier any cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all

> > the good info on this group, I feel somewhat familiar with

> > the mount already.

> >

> > Thanks,

> > Glen

> Did exactly this myself. The part the head wants to fit into, needs

to be

> 5.5" ID, with three 3/8" slots descending 0.5" (centre of hole)

from the

> top edge - so the bottom of the slot is at 0.675" from the top of

the

> tube. They should then 'dogleg' by about 3/8" at this depth. The

tube

> needs a minimum depth of 1". Since the top of the pier I allready

had was

> fitted to take a LX200, I made a solid aluminium adapter plate,

with this

> tube on it, which can if needed also be fitted to the LX200 giant

field

> tripod.

> The diameter should be _fractionally_ over this size (perhaps

5.515),

> otherwise the fit will be too tight. Also the dogleg holes,

must 'err' on

> the side of being slightly too shallow rather than too deep. The

actual

> diameter clearance needed will vary slightly with different

materials,

> since (for instance) if your pier is in aluminium, both the head

and the

> pier should have similar thermal expansion co-efficients, but if

the pier

> is in a material with a lower thermal expansion rate, and the

cutting is

> done in cold weather, then in hot conditions the head will expand a

little

> more than the tube, and the fit may become uncomfortably tight.

> I see another poster has said 5.530, this sounds

uncomfortably 'loose' to

> me. :-)

>

> Best Wishes







----------------------------

#10272 May 20, 2002

In a message dated 5/19/02 9:36:15 PM Central Daylight Time,

Serena.Steuart@... writes:



> The mounting screws for G-11 are 3/8 diam, at 120

> deg spacing around the adapter. The reference screw is aligned with

> the CWD position, or North in the northern hemisphere (South

> otherwise). Drill the holes with a 3/8 inch drill with centres 0.497

> inches (nominal 0.5 inches) below the edge of the adapter.

>

>



This note reminded me of some possible idiosyncrasies (or tolerances) on some

of these dimensions. For example, my mount's 3/8-16 bolt holes are NOT 120

degrees apart! I incorrectly assumed this when designing my pier and had to

make a modification before ever getting to use it when, to my chagrin, one of

the holes was skewed about 4 degrees off of the 120 degree point. Why was

that? Hell, who knows? Maybe the machinist was having a bad day or if done

on a CNC lathe, the program had a positional error written in by mistake, or

the encoders on the CNC were faulty, or whatever. The bottom line is double

check all of your dimensions of YOUR mount before having mating parts made

up. The old adage Your Mileage May Vary certainly applies here!!!



Andy McDavid





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10273 May 20, 2002

In a message dated 5/20/02 4:17:49 AM Central Daylight Time,

ttelmah@... writes:



> The diameter should be _fractionally_ over this size (perhaps 5.515),

> otherwise the fit will be too tight. Also the dogleg holes, must 'err' on

> the side of being slightly too shallow rather than too deep. The actual

> diameter clearance needed will vary slightly with different materials,

> since (for instance) if your pier is in aluminium, both the head and the

> pier should have similar thermal expansion co-efficients, but if the pier

> is in a material with a lower thermal expansion rate, and the cutting is

> done in cold weather, then in hot conditions the head will expand a little

> more than the tube, and the fit may become uncomfortably tight.

> I see another poster has said 5.530, this sounds uncomfortably 'loose' to

> me. :-)

>

> Best Wishes

>



Please read my earlier post about measuring your own tripod and all mating

parts as my 5.530" was what my tripod measures with my calipers. However,

when machining my adapter, I took my mount to work and fitted the adapter to

the mount by taking a .005" out of the I.D. (after getting close but still

too small) until I had a slip fit, which is all you are after. Additionally,

I can certainly attest that even if you were .015" over on the diameter of

your adapter based on the 5.530 diameter I gave you, you would not have any

problems....that is only .0075" per side which is negligible for this

application especially since once the bolts are tightened down, the mount is

not going to move in the adapter and this is your ultimate goal.....a secure

mounting for your mount so to speak. I guess what I am trying, probably not

too clearly, to say is measure your equipment and fabricate accordingly but

don't get hung up on trying to get a line to line fit or a tolerance of plus

or minus .001. These are none moving interfaces so ultra-high precision is

not critical to functionality though sloppiness is uncalled for as well. I

will shut up now....you have received a lot of great advice and tips and I

know it will turn out well for you.



Regards,

Andy McDavid









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10275 May 21, 2002

One thing of which you need to be careful is manufacturing

> tolerances when making a fitting for an unseen mating item.

> The parts we're discussing are not critical and there is no

> particular need to hold tight tolerances. My tripod head,

> for example, is not precisely round (distorted by welding

> after machining) and has a minimum diameter of 5.5240 and

> a max of 5.5370. My G-11 base is 5.5130 diameter.

> When I enquired (in a similar search) I was told 5.55 inches by

> another user. The G-11 is located by resting on the top edge of

> the pier (or tripod) and held laterally by the 3 screws. Once

> the screws are done up the head is fixed in place even if the

> pier fitting is somewhat generous in its diameter (but you'll

> have to do an alignment every time you put the G-11 back on the

> pier).

Very true.

I actually suspect the part is machined to 5.50, and then becomes

'oversize', because of the anodising treatment. It is common for this to

add between about 10, and 20 thou to the size of an object (which is why

some filters are so tight - they are made 'right', but insufficient

allowance is given for the surface change when they are anodised...).

> If you want the screws to locate the the head accurately on the

> pier (because you are going to take it on and off) then I suggest

> not slotting the holes. Or you could drill and ream a locating

> pin to be inserted before tightening the screws in a defined

> sequence. I don't find completely removing the screws to be

> any trouble, although I guess it does add a small risk of

> dropping and losing them.

I use a seperate index 'peg', which I made to provide rotational aligment.

Add this to a good tube fit, and it is suprising how repeatable the

position can be. Even if you do not slot the holes, there will be

sufficient play in a normal hole to be significant, so the same approach,

of tightening up with a small constant torque applied to the head, or

another more accurate alignment point will still be needed, while the

slots make removal and insertion much quicker. :-)

> You might wish to ask Scott to tell you the nominal diameter of

> the G-11 base and tolerance to which he makes them. The present

> contributors agree that 5.530 is a maximum diameter in their

> sample set.

Unfortunately the 'manufactured' size will differ from the 'finished'

size, because of the anodising. Hence the 'best' answer is a sample of

actual heads.



Best Wishes







----------------------------

#10277 May 21, 2002

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Roger Hamlett" ttelmah@n...> wrote: >

> I actually suspect the part is machined to 5.50, and then becomes

> 'oversize', because of the anodising treatment. It is common for

this to > add between about 10, and 20 thou to the size of an object (which is

why



.010" to .020" is way too excessive for an anodizing thickness.. A

typical anodizing process only adds about .3 to 1.0 mil to surface

(1.0 mil being .001"). SOme hard-anodizing processes (Sulfuric/Oxalic

acid at high temperature/current) will add about 1.0 to 3.0 mill's

which is still not that much.



best regards,

Leon Aslan



----------------------------

#10289 May 21, 2002

Hey All,

Thanks for all the input, Great group. I got an E mail from a guy that

should know (Scott)says 5.550" is the size the tube specs to.After all

the input and pricing materials, I ordered a pier from one of

astromart's newest sponsors; Astro Sky. 48" tall 6"OD .5" wall with a

12" base $210 Incl. shipping. What the hey, I haven't even found a way

to buy the 6"pipe for that, and I've been looking for 2 Months. I'll

let y'all know how it works.(that is after I get a mount to put on

it!!!)

Thanks All,

Glen

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "madmaxxx47362" dernedid@y...> wrote:

> Hi all,

>

> I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am

currently

> putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to switch back to

GEM

> instead of the darn forks I've been fighting with for years. So

after

> looking for a GEM to use, looks like the G11 is going to be it. Now

> for the question, can someone tell me the inside diameter of the top

> of the upper tripod where the head fits into it? I am pricing a pier

> from LeSeur

> but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier

any

> cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info on

> this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.

>

> Thanks,

> Glen



----------------------------

#10290 May 21, 2002

I had purchased a 6" AstroPier myself months ago.....mounted on a

concrete base, and have been quite happy with it. I had a wedge

mounted LX200 on it....and most recently, my G-11. I like the

Astropier because I wanted something that I could get various

mounting plates for (you may want to consider this.....different

mounting's available), in addition to side reinforcing

gussets....very important I think, from a structural end.

Pictures of my pier at www.astroimagination.com in my miniature

observatory.

I've been more than happy with it....of course, you'll need to dig a

big hole !



Also...the pier is removable if you plan it right....If I ever

relocate, I just unbolt the pier, and topsoil over the concrete. All

I'll need is 3 new anchor bolts to relocate !



Also....I investigated having this pier made from scratch, with the

same components, and I don't think I could make it cheaper than

Leseur manufacturing does it !



Rick



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "madmaxxx47362" dernedid@y...> wrote:

> Hi all,

>

> I'm new here and I am just coming from the LX200 camp. I am

currently

> putting in a new (first) observatory and decided to switch back to

GEM

> instead of the darn forks I've been fighting with for years. So

after

> looking for a GEM to use, looks like the G11 is going to be it. Now

> for the question, can someone tell me the inside diameter of the

top

> of the upper tripod where the head fits into it? I am pricing a

pier

> from LeSeur

> but, like anyone else, I'm trying to find out if I can do the pier

any

> cheaper myself,successfully that is! Thanks for all the good info

on

> this group, I feel somewhat familiar with the mount already.

>

> Thanks,

> Glen



----------------------------

#11909 Sep 22, 2002

Does anyone know if the HGM Titan can be used on the HGM 200 tripod?

I've mounted my HGM 200 permanently, but still like to go to remote

sites.



TIA for any help.



-- Gil



----------------------------

#11922 Sep 23, 2002

Hi Gil,

It looks to be the same tripod as the HGM-200, the base of the Titan

looks like the same base as the HGM-200, of course the only true way to

know will be when you order that titan mount you can ask Scott. :-)



Michael Downing

www.astroden.com www.astroden.com/>







-----Original Message-----

From: Gil Shillcutt [mailto:astrocycle@...]

Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 4:29 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier/Tripod for HGM Titan



Does anyone know if the HGM Titan can be used on the HGM 200 tripod?

I've mounted my HGM 200 permanently, but still like to go to remote

sites.



TIA for any help.



-- Gil











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----------------------------

#11923 Sep 23, 2002

Hello

The tripod is the same as the HGM200.

Scott



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Michael Downing" michael@s...> wrote:

> Hi Gil,

> It looks to be the same tripod as the HGM-200, the base of the Titan

> looks like the same base as the HGM-200, of course the only true

way to

> know will be when you order that titan mount you can ask Scott. :-)

>

> Michael Downing

> www.astroden.com www.astroden.com/>

>

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Gil Shillcutt [mailto:astrocycle@y...]

> Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 4:29 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@y...

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier/Tripod for HGM Titan

>

> Does anyone know if the HGM Titan can be used on the HGM 200

tripod?

> I've mounted my HGM 200 permanently, but still like to go to remote

> sites.

>

> TIA for any help.

>

> -- Gil

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

>

>

> ADVERTISEMENT

>

>

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> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11924 Sep 23, 2002

Hi Scott,

Are those mounts shipping yet?

What is the lead time on them?



Thanks

Michael Downing

www.astroden.com www.astroden.com/>







-----Original Message-----

From: losmandy [mailto:scott@...]

Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:57 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Pier/Tripod for HGM Titan



Hello

The tripod is the same as the HGM200.

Scott



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Michael Downing" michael@s...> wrote:

> Hi Gil,

> It looks to be the same tripod as the HGM-200, the base of the Titan

> looks like the same base as the HGM-200, of course the only true

way to

> know will be when you order that titan mount you can ask Scott. :-)

>

> Michael Downing

> www.astroden.com www.astroden.com/>

>

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Gil Shillcutt [mailto:astrocycle@y...]

> Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 4:29 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@y...

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier/Tripod for HGM Titan

>

> Does anyone know if the HGM Titan can be used on the HGM 200

tripod?

> I've mounted my HGM 200 permanently, but still like to go to remote

> sites.

>

> TIA for any help.

>

> -- Gil

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

>

>

> ADVERTISEMENT

>

>

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----------------------------

#11928 Sep 23, 2002

Hello Michael

3-4 weeks.

Scott



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Michael Downing" michael@s...> wrote:

> Hi Scott,

> Are those mounts shipping yet?

> What is the lead time on them?

>

> Thanks

> Michael Downing

> www.astroden.com www.astroden.com/>

>

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: losmandy [mailto:scott@l...]

> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:57 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@y...

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Pier/Tripod for HGM Titan

>

> Hello

> The tripod is the same as the HGM200.

> Scott

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Michael Downing" michael@s...> wrote:

> > Hi Gil,

> > It looks to be the same tripod as the HGM-200, the base of the

Titan

> > looks like the same base as the HGM-200, of course the only true

> way to

> > know will be when you order that titan mount you can ask Scott. :-

)

> >

> > Michael Downing

> > www.astroden.com www.astroden.com/>

> >

> >

> >

> > -----Original Message-----

> > From: Gil Shillcutt [mailto:astrocycle@y...]

> > Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 4:29 PM

> > To: Losmandy_users@y...

> > Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier/Tripod for HGM Titan

> >

> > Does anyone know if the HGM Titan can be used on the HGM 200

> tripod?

> > I've mounted my HGM 200 permanently, but still like to go to

remote

> > sites.

> >

> > TIA for any help.

> >

> > -- Gil

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

> >

> >

> > ADVERTISEMENT

> >

> >

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----------------------------

#11978 Sep 25, 2002

Is anyone using a collapsible portable pier by either Meade or ATS fro their

G-11? If so do they cut down noticeably your set-up time?



Thanks



Manoj Sood



----------------------------

#12032 Oct 1, 2002

Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier for the G11?



Thanks,



Bob Hughes



Robert A. Hughes

President

Four Corners Technology, llc.

Box 4941

41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

Cave Creek, AZ 85327

480-488-5810- Office

480-488-5717- FAX

602-909-5610- Cell

rhughes@...

www.fourcornerstech.com



----------------------------

#12034 Oct 1, 2002

Bob, take a look at Le Sueur Manf. at www.astropier.com/ They make rock solid mounts in varying heights and diameters.



Chuck Amedia

Tucson, Az, USA ----- Original Message -----

From: Bob Hughes

To: Losmandy_users

Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 6:55 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Perminant Pier





Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier for the G11?



Thanks,



Bob Hughes



Robert A. Hughes

President

Four Corners Technology, llc.

Box 4941

41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

Cave Creek, AZ 85327

480-488-5810- Office

480-488-5717- FAX

602-909-5610- Cell

rhughes@...

www.fourcornerstech.com









To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12035 Oct 1, 2002

I agree. I have a Le Sueur pier for my G-11 and it works great.

They even added a custom bracket for the G-11 electronincs box for me.



Dave Sandage

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Chuck Amedia" chuckamedia@e...> wrote:

> Bob, take a look at Le Sueur Manf. at www.astropier.com/

They make rock solid mounts in varying heights and diameters.

>

> Chuck Amedia

> Tucson, Az, USA

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Bob Hughes

> To: Losmandy_users

> Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 6:55 AM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Perminant Pier

>

>

> Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier for

the G11?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Bob Hughes

>

> Robert A. Hughes

> President

> Four Corners Technology, llc.

> Box 4941

> 41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

> Cave Creek, AZ 85327

> 480-488-5810- Office

> 480-488-5717- FAX

> 602-909-5610- Cell

> rhughes@f...

> www.fourcornerstech.com

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

Service.

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12036 Oct 1, 2002

Dave, what is the inside diameter of your pier?



Chuck ----- Original Message -----

From: Dave Sandage

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 9:54 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Perminant Pier





I agree. I have a Le Sueur pier for my G-11 and it works great.

They even added a custom bracket for the G-11 electronincs box for me.



Dave Sandage



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Chuck Amedia" chuckamedia@e...> wrote:

> Bob, take a look at Le Sueur Manf. at www.astropier.com/

They make rock solid mounts in varying heights and diameters.

>

> Chuck Amedia

> Tucson, Az, USA

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Bob Hughes

> To: Losmandy_users

> Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 6:55 AM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Perminant Pier

>

>

> Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier for

the G11?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Bob Hughes

>

> Robert A. Hughes

> President

> Four Corners Technology, llc.

> Box 4941

> 41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

> Cave Creek, AZ 85327

> 480-488-5810- Office

> 480-488-5717- FAX

> 602-909-5610- Cell

> rhughes@f...

> www.fourcornerstech.com

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

Service.

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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----------------------------

#12039 Oct 1, 2002

I'll add another good recommendation for Le Sueur Manufacturings

AstroPier. I got a 6" diameter, and it is like a rock. They have a

nice method for templating the anchor bolts...good enamel paint job.

I designed my own, and to have it built wouldn't be much cheaper

than the Astropier, if at all. And with their side gussots, they

make a very stable for your G-11 or anything else.



Rick Yandrick



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Bob Hughes" rhughes@e...> wrote:

> Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier for

the G11?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Bob Hughes

>

> Robert A. Hughes

> President

> Four Corners Technology, llc.

> Box 4941

> 41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

> Cave Creek, AZ 85327

> 480-488-5810- Office

> 480-488-5717- FAX

> 602-909-5610- Cell

> rhughes@f...

> www.fourcornerstech.com



----------------------------

#12040 Oct 1, 2002

Has anyone used one of the Astrosky piers?



astrosky.homestead.com/Astrosky.html





--- astronorick rick@...> wrote: > I'll add another good recommendation for Le Sueur Manufacturings

> AstroPier. I got a 6" diameter, and it is like a rock. They have a

> nice method for templating the anchor bolts...good enamel paint job.

> I designed my own, and to have it built wouldn't be much cheaper

> than the Astropier, if at all. And with their side gussots, they

> make a very stable for your G-11 or anything else.

>

> Rick Yandrick

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Bob Hughes" rhughes@e...> wrote:

> > Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier for

> the G11?

> >

> > Thanks,

> >

> > Bob Hughes

> >

> > Robert A. Hughes

> > President

> > Four Corners Technology, llc.

> > Box 4941

> > 41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

> > Cave Creek, AZ 85327

> > 480-488-5810- Office

> > 480-488-5717- FAX

> > 602-909-5610- Cell

> > rhughes@f...

> > www.fourcornerstech.com

>

>





---------------

Do you Yahoo!?

New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!

sbc.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#12067 Oct 2, 2002

Hi Chuck,

I'll have to double check, but I think it's 6 inches. It exactly

matches the inside diameter of the G-11 semi-pier tripod.



Dave

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Chuck Amedia" chuckamedia@e...> wrote:

> Dave, what is the inside diameter of your pier?

>

> Chuck

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Dave Sandage

> To: Losmandy_users@y...

> Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 9:54 AM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Perminant Pier

>

>

> I agree. I have a Le Sueur pier for my G-11 and it works great.

> They even added a custom bracket for the G-11 electronincs box

for me.

>

> Dave Sandage

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Chuck Amedia" chuckamedia@e...>

wrote:

> > Bob, take a look at Le Sueur Manf. at

www.astropier.com/

> They make rock solid mounts in varying heights and diameters.

> >

> > Chuck Amedia

> > Tucson, Az, USA

> > ----- Original Message -----

> > From: Bob Hughes

> > To: Losmandy_users

> > Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 6:55 AM

> > Subject: [Losmandy_users] Perminant Pier

> >

> >

> > Anyone have any leads on s good source for a perminant pier

for

> the G11?

> >

> > Thanks,

> >

> > Bob Hughes

> >

> > Robert A. Hughes

> > President

> > Four Corners Technology, llc.

> > Box 4941

> > 41414 N. Echo Canyon Drive.

> > Cave Creek, AZ 85327

> > 480-488-5810- Office

> > 480-488-5717- FAX

> > 602-909-5610- Cell

> > rhughes@f...

> > www.fourcornerstech.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

> >

> >

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

> Service.

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

> ADVERTISEMENT

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

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----------------------------

#12068 Oct 2, 2002

From what I recall, the I.D. of the pier is a little over 5.75". I made my own a couple of years ago (with the help of a friend who had a lathe and a welding torch), and I started with a 6" O.D., DOM (drawn-over-mandrel) steel pipe, 1/4" wall. You use the DOM variety pipe, since it starts off fairly circular. We then machined it down on the I.D. to match the base of the equatorial head. I took the head apart and used the base to check the work as we progressed. I started with a 6 foot pipe, but had to cut it apart to fit it on the lathe. Then welded it back together, ground down the weld seams, and had it powder coated. Total cost was around $250. The pipe was ~$150, powder coating~$75, + misc. costs. I have it anchored into about 24" of concrete out at our site. I would have gone deeper, but I hit bedrock and didn't want to rent a jackhammer g>. Seems to work just fine for what I use it for.



Jim Girard ----- Original Message -----

From: Dave Sandage

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Perminant Pier





Hi Chuck,

I'll have to double check, but I think it's 6 inches. It exactly

matches the inside diameter of the G-11 semi-pier tripod.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#12069 Oct 2, 2002

Actually, make that a little over 5.5". My math is a little rusty g>. ----- Original Message -----

From: Jim Girard

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Perminant Pier





From what I recall, the I.D. of the pier is a little over 5.75".





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12086 Oct 2, 2002

Thank you.



Chuck ----- Original Message -----

From: Jim Girard

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 1:37 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Perminant Pier





Actually, make that a little over 5.5". My math is a little rusty g>.

----- Original Message -----

From: Jim Girard

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Perminant Pier





From what I recall, the I.D. of the pier is a little over 5.75".





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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----------------------------

#12560 Nov 2, 2002

Hello group,



This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep. Problem

is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap will

set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.



Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are typically

made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?



Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Joe Colosi



----------------------------

#12561 Nov 2, 2002

Hi Joe,



I used a piece of 6 inch schedule 40 steel pipe set into concrete for a pier

and filled it with dry playbox sand to act as a damper. This seems to work

very well as the assembly damps down from a blow in nothing flat. If your

tube is closed on the bottom, it is certainly worth a shot as you cannot

beat the price of sand.



Marty



Martin Niemi



www.ameritech.net/users/mniemi000/index.html



Mailto:mniemi000@...

----- Original Message -----

From: "josephcolosi" colosi@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 5:51 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] cure for shaky G11 on a pier?





> Hello group,

>

> This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

> G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep. Problem

> is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap will

> set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

> was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

> imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.

>

> Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are typically

> made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?

>

> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

> Joe Colosi

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>



----------------------------

#12562 Nov 2, 2002

In a message dated 11/2/02 4:59:50 PM Central Standard Time,

mniemi000@... writes:



> This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

> > G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep. Problem

> > is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap will

> > set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

> > was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

> > imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.

> >

> > Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are typically

> > made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?

> >

> > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

> > Joe Colosi

>



Joe,

I may be wrong and I hope I am but I think your problem is the Aluminum you

used for your pier. You simply don't have enough mass and rigidity

connecting your concrete to your mount. Your pier is acting like a big

tuning fork when tapped and flexing in the wind. Can you salvage it? Maybe.

You might reduce/stop the vibration transmission from incidental contact by

adding mass. I am assuming you have a hollow aluminum tube so I would put

the dry sand in it as recommended but I would also add an inorganic oil until

the sand is saturated. This you can try and if it doesn't work (I can almost

assure you it will help.....just don't know how much) you can backtrack. A

more permanent solution would be to fill the tube with concrete. Obviously,

there ain't no way back from that route but it would address all of your

issues: vibration and flex.



My pier is 6" diameter Schedule 120 cast iron pipe (on .25" plate steel with

appropriate gussets and all joints welded and weighing 130 lbs) filled with

sand and is set on 1000 lbs of concrete that extends down a depth of 4 feet.

Light taps with my knuckles on the pier don't even register in the eye piece.

What you need is a rigid connection to ground and lots of mass to keep

vibration and flex at bay. My set up is not the best nor necessarily what

you or anyone else should do but it does work as planned.



Regards,

Andy McDavid





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#12563 Nov 2, 2002

One solution I have heard is to fill the pier with sand.



Manoj



-----Original Message-----

From: Stargazer275@... [mailto:Stargazer275@...]

Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 4:14 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] cure for shaky G11 on a pier?





In a message dated 11/2/02 4:59:50 PM Central Standard Time,

mniemi000@... writes:



> This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

> > G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep. Problem

> > is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap will

> > set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

> > was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

> > imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.

> >

> > Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are typically

> > made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?

> >

> > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

> > Joe Colosi

>



Joe,

I may be wrong and I hope I am but I think your problem is the Aluminum you

used for your pier. You simply don't have enough mass and rigidity

connecting your concrete to your mount. Your pier is acting like a big

tuning fork when tapped and flexing in the wind. Can you salvage it?

Maybe.

You might reduce/stop the vibration transmission from incidental contact by

adding mass. I am assuming you have a hollow aluminum tube so I would put

the dry sand in it as recommended but I would also add an inorganic oil

until

the sand is saturated. This you can try and if it doesn't work (I can

almost

assure you it will help.....just don't know how much) you can backtrack. A

more permanent solution would be to fill the tube with concrete. Obviously,

there ain't no way back from that route but it would address all of your

issues: vibration and flex.



My pier is 6" diameter Schedule 120 cast iron pipe (on .25" plate steel with

appropriate gussets and all joints welded and weighing 130 lbs) filled with

sand and is set on 1000 lbs of concrete that extends down a depth of 4 feet.

Light taps with my knuckles on the pier don't even register in the eye

piece.

What you need is a rigid connection to ground and lots of mass to keep

vibration and flex at bay. My set up is not the best nor necessarily what

you or anyone else should do but it does work as planned.



Regards,

Andy McDavid





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

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----------------------------

#12565 Nov 3, 2002

If your pier does not actually touch the concrete due to

leveling / anchor bolts, I may have a solution. I went through

this this summer and found that you need direct contact

i.e. pier base to concrete, or the (4) 5/8"D all-thread anchor

bolts that we used only enhansed vibration, especially

during CCD or photography. After ensuring that we had a

well levled surface plate, we lined the bottom of the pier

and anchor bolts with heavy plastic wrap and re-poured

concrete to fill in the gap (and then some). While we are

using a 6" OD aluminum pier (41" high) with 1" thick walls

that support heavy mount with C14 plus 4" guide scope,

the vibration problem is all but gone and much better than

Meade giant field tripod carrying same setup. While our

1" thick walls likely make a big distinction from your pier,

theory is the same and if suspension is your problem,

the same solution should work for you as well.

Good luck!



Mark ----- Original Message -----

From: josephcolosi

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 5:51 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] cure for shaky G11 on a pier?





Hello group,



This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep. Problem

is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap will

set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.



Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are typically

made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?



Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Joe Colosi





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12573 Nov 3, 2002

Hello Joe,



If the base of your aluminum pier is not in direct contact with the

concrete footing (i.e.: an air gap between the footing and the bottom

plate that the pier is welded to), you can firm up the connection by

filling the void with expandable grout. If this is insufficient,

filling the pier with sand or concrete as mentioned by others will

certainly help. I don't know the specifics of your pier to footing

connection, but I'd (personally) start with the grout first.



Aluminum is not generally used for permanant piers, however it is

very rigid and I suspect your problem can be improved by using the

techniques discribed in all the replies.



Good luck.



Randy

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "josephcolosi" colosi@a...> wrote:

> Hello group,

>

> This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

> G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep.

Problem

> is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap

will

> set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

> was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

> imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.

>

> Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are

typically

> made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?

>

> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

> Joe Colosi







----------------------------

#12574 Nov 3, 2002

In a message dated 11/3/02 4:30:03 PM Central Standard Time,

m.beale@... writes:



> If your pier does not actually touch the concrete due to

> leveling / anchor bolts, I may have a solution. I went through

> this this summer and found that you need direct contact

> i.e. pier base to concrete, or the (4) 5/8"D all-thread anchor

> bolts that we used only enhansed vibration, especially

> during CCD or photography. After ensuring that we had a

> well levled surface plate, we lined the bottom of the pier

> and anchor bolts with heavy plastic wrap and re-poured

> concrete to fill in the gap (and then some). While we are

> using a 6" OD aluminum pier (41" high) with 1" thick walls

> that support heavy mount with C14 plus 4" guide scope,

> the vibration problem is all but gone and much better than

> Meade giant field tripod carrying same setup. While our

> 1" thick walls likely make a big distinction from your pier,

> theory is the same and if suspension is your problem,

> the same solution should work for you as well.

> Good luck!

>

> Mark

>



Mark,

This solution will most definitely make the system more rigid. I am

wondering though if I understand this right. Can you still adjust the level

of your pier with the additional concrete? I know it shouldn't move but I

find that about once a year or so, I have to "tweak" the level ever so

slightly (maybe an eighth turn on one or more bolts) if I want perfect level,

at least according to my bubble levels on my mount. For the first year after

the pier was installed I had to adjust level more frequently as everything

settled. Just curious.



Regards,

Andy McDavid





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12575 Nov 3, 2002

Hey Joe, when I was building my pier I remember reading somewhere

that if the pier is too long it would start acting like a tuning

fork. I wanted my mount up higher so I poured a concrete base, 16"

diameter, from the ground up to a point where the pier was no more

than 36" long. Dampening is 1-2 sec. Good luck, Larry

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "josephcolosi" colosi@a...> wrote:

> Hello group,

>

> This summer I built an observatory for my G11/C9.25. I mounted the

> G11 on a aluminum pier bolted to a concrete pad 3 feet deep.

Problem

> is the scope now has a serious case of the shakes. A small tap

will

> set it ringing for 5-8 seconds. When I used the Losmandy tripod it

> was rock solid, 1-2 second damping. I now am starting to do CCD

> imaging and the vibration is a problem even from mild wild blowing.

>

> Question is, are there any tricks or modifications that are

typically

> made to pier systems to deal with vibrations?

>

> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

> Joe Colosi



----------------------------

#13065 Dec 9, 2002

Hi all.



Can anybody give me a description of the EX 12 tripod extension? In

particular I want to know if it will bolt to the top of my (home-

made) pier. Right now, I have the MA (Meade tripod adapter) bolted to

the top of the pier, and the gm-8 sits in that. I am going to upgrade

to a longer refractor and my pier isn't long enough (nothing like

planning for the future!). Thanks in advance.





Steve O.



----------------------------

#13844 Feb 1 10:42 AM

I have a G11 on the way, soon hopefully. This will be my 3rd one. I prefer a portable pier over the G11 tripod. The G11 tripod is one of the best Ive seen, I just like piers after owning an AP900 on the AP pier. Sold the AP a while back, to purchase a Solar set up. 7" meade Mak, with a daystar .45. This left me with only enough money to buy another G11 in case youre wondering why I stepped down in mounts.

Anyways, back to the piers. Any of you guys using a portable pier with your G11? If so, could you tell me what brand, and how you like it. I would love to see pics if you have them, and time to send. The AP piers are nice, but without the G11 here, I cant really remember how I would mount the head. I know losmandy makes an adapter for the meade field tripod that could probably be adapted to the top of a pier, but I would rather buy a pier made for the G11, and ready to use. If I can find one thats as nice as the AP pier I will probably sell the G11 tripod before even using it, and will post it for sale to the group before Astromart, so if you may be interested drop me an e mail,

tony7@...

Thanks,

Tony.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#13849 Feb 1 4:22 PM

Hi Tony,



I haven't used a portable pier, but have been intriged by them.

Since you've already owned an AP pier, maybe you've already seen some

of these, but here's a couple of links that I've found:



www.advancedtelescope.com/index.htm



www.mountaininstruments.com/pages/piers.html



Not portable, but looks like fun...

www.pier-tech.com/



There's also some piers sold through Questar.



Hope this helps your quest.



Regards,

Randy



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "tony7" tony7@a...> wrote:

> I have a G11 on the way, soon hopefully. This will be my 3rd one.

I prefer a portable pier over the G11 tripod. The G11 tripod is one

of the best Ive seen, I just like piers after owning an AP900 on the

AP pier. Sold the AP a while back, to purchase a Solar set up. 7"

meade Mak, with a daystar .45. This left me with only enough money to

buy another G11 in case youre wondering why I stepped down in mounts.

> Anyways, back to the piers. Any of you guys using a portable pier

with your G11? If so, could you tell me what brand, and how you like

it. I would love to see pics if you have them, and time to send. The

AP piers are nice, but without the G11 here, I cant really remember

how I would mount the head. I know losmandy makes an adapter for the

meade field tripod that could probably be adapted to the top of a

pier, but I would rather buy a pier made for the G11, and ready to

use. If I can find one thats as nice as the AP pier I will probably

sell the G11 tripod before even using it, and will post it for sale

to the group before Astromart, so if you may be interested drop me an

e mail,

> tony7@a...

> Thanks,

> Tony.

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#14196 Feb 22 1:20 PM

Hi,

I am dusting off a GM8 I bought back in 94 for an even older C8 (the

orange kind). I am looking for input on how to attach it to a

concrete pier I am planning to build in the yard. Any help is welcome.

Olivier



----------------------------

#14261 Mar 1, 2003

hi all,

i want to build a pier in my back yard,

ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

(left over from my business)

and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour the

tube at the same time,

can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

into the back of my house, for the wiring,

,

my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

is this a problem with the base??

,

how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

before my mount gets the shakes,??

,

ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

with a roll -off roof,

thanks,

john,



----------------------------

#14263 Mar 1, 2003

John,



Doesn't concrete have a fairly significant thermal coefficient of

expansion? In other words doesn't it shrink and expand a good bit as

the temperature cools down and heats up?



Could be a problem since as the night progressed, your mount would

actually be moving ever so slightly as the concrete contracted.



I'm pretty sure that Scott L. once mentioned that this can be a

problem if you set-up on a small concrete pad?



Take Care,



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

jp.jep@v...> wrote: > hi all,

> i want to build a pier in my back yard,

> ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> (left over from my business)

> and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour

the > tube at the same time,

> can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

> i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

> into the back of my house, for the wiring,

> ,

> my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

> is this a problem with the base??

> ,

> how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

> could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

> before my mount gets the shakes,??

> ,

> ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

> 5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

> with a roll -off roof,

> thanks,

> john,



----------------------------

#14266 Mar 1, 2003

John, a fellow that lives near Monmouth, Oregon made a

concrete pier tall enough so he could observe from his

second floor deck. For the life of me, I can't remember

his name. I think he made a short presentation at the

Imaging the Sky Conference two years ago. It was a big

deal to get the job done.



If Jim Girard is around, maybe he remembers his name.



Jim Jones

nt7t@...





At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote: >hi all,

>i want to build a pier in my back yard,

>ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> (left over from my business)

>and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour the

>tube at the same time,

>can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

>i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

>into the back of my house, for the wiring,

>,

>my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

>is this a problem with the base??

>,

>how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

>could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

>before my mount gets the shakes,??

>,

>ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

>5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

>with a roll -off roof,

>thanks,

>john,

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#14267 Mar 1, 2003

John, I remembered that I had squirreled away some URL's on

pier construction. You probably already have them, but these are the

links I had to "how to's" for concrete piers.



www.tucsonastronomy.org/pier.htm

www.MAPUG.com/AstroDesigns/MAPUG/PermanentPiers/Pier-plates.htm



This last link is to a list of links to folks that have constructed observatories.

www.seds.org/billa/obs/obslist.html



Jim Jones

nt7t@...



At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote: >hi all,

>i want to build a pier in my back yard,

>ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> (left over from my business)

>and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour the

>tube at the same time,

>can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

>i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

>into the back of my house, for the wiring,

>,

>my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

>is this a problem with the base??

>,

>how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

>could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

>before my mount gets the shakes,??

>,

>ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

>5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

>with a roll -off roof,

>thanks,

>john,







----------------------------

#14268 Mar 1, 2003

Wow! Had no idea you could do that. That will save you a bunch over

buying some kind of commercial solution that is made out of metal.



I just may have to build a permanent pier out at my dark-sky site

now :)



Regards,

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Jones nt7t@i...> wrote:

> John, I remembered that I had squirreled away some URL's on

> pier construction. You probably already have them, but these are

the

> links I had to "how to's" for concrete piers.

>

> www.tucsonastronomy.org/pier.htm

> www.MAPUG.com/AstroDesigns/MAPUG/PermanentPiers/Pier-

plates.htm

>

> This last link is to a list of links to folks that have

constructed observatories.

> www.seds.org/billa/obs/obslist.html

>

> Jim Jones

> nt7t@i...

>

> At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote:

> >hi all,

> >i want to build a pier in my back yard,

> >ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> > (left over from my business)

> >and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour

the

> >tube at the same time,

> >can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

> >i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run

it

> >into the back of my house, for the wiring,

> >,

> >my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

> >is this a problem with the base??

> >,

> >how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

> >could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

> >before my mount gets the shakes,??

> >,

> >ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

> >5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

> >with a roll -off roof,

> >thanks,

> >john,



----------------------------

#14269 Mar 1, 2003

John, I missed one. Lots of good practical stuff in

this one.



www.MAPUG.com/AstroDesigns/MAPUG/PermanentPiers/PermantPier.htm#anchor1820489



Up where you live, I think an observatory is required to have a life boat.



Jim Jones

nt7t@...





At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote: >hi all,

>i want to build a pier in my back yard,

>ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> (left over from my business)

>and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour the

>tube at the same time,

>can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

>i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

>into the back of my house, for the wiring,

>,

>my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

>is this a problem with the base??

>,

>how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

>could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

>before my mount gets the shakes,??

>,

>ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

>5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

>with a roll -off roof,

>thanks,

>john,

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#14270 Mar 1, 2003

His name is Jon Brewster.



www.proaxis.com/~sandstone/Astro/



He has an 18 foot concrete pillar going up through his garage. Works pretty

darn good.



Tom Carrico

www.ccdargo.com ----- Original Message -----

From: "Jim Jones" nt7t@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 10:06 AM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] concrete pier





> John, a fellow that lives near Monmouth, Oregon made a

> concrete pier tall enough so he could observe from his

> second floor deck. For the life of me, I can't remember

> his name. I think he made a short presentation at the

> Imaging the Sky Conference two years ago. It was a big

> deal to get the job done.

>

> If Jim Girard is around, maybe he remembers his name.

>

> Jim Jones

> nt7t@...

>

>

> At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote:

> >hi all,

> >i want to build a pier in my back yard,

> >ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> > (left over from my business)

> >and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour the

> >tube at the same time,

> >can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

> >i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

> >into the back of my house, for the wiring,

> >,

> >my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

> >is this a problem with the base??

> >,

> >how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

> >could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

> >before my mount gets the shakes,??

> >,

> >ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

> >5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

> >with a roll -off roof,

> >thanks,

> >john,

> >

> >

> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> >Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >

> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#14271 Mar 1, 2003

Thanks Tom



I was having a senior moment there. Couldn't remember his name for

the life of me. And I had a long conversation with him too because I

was thinking of moving to Independence.



Jim Jones

nt7t@...



At 01:03 PM 03/01/2003 -0800, you wrote: >His name is Jon Brewster.

>

>www.proaxis.com/~sandstone/Astro/

>

>He has an 18 foot concrete pillar going up through his garage. Works pretty

>darn good.

>

>Tom Carrico

>www.ccdargo.com

>----- Original Message -----

>From: "Jim Jones" nt7t@...>

>To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

>Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 10:06 AM

>Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] concrete pier

>

>

>> John, a fellow that lives near Monmouth, Oregon made a

>> concrete pier tall enough so he could observe from his

>> second floor deck. For the life of me, I can't remember

>> his name. I think he made a short presentation at the

>> Imaging the Sky Conference two years ago. It was a big

>> deal to get the job done.

>>

>> If Jim Girard is around, maybe he remembers his name.

>>

>> Jim Jones

>> nt7t@...

>>

>>

>> At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote:

>> >hi all,

>> >i want to build a pier in my back yard,

>> >ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

>> > (left over from my business)

>> >and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well pour the

>> >tube at the same time,

>> >can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

>> >i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and run it

>> >into the back of my house, for the wiring,

>> >,

>> >my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

>> >is this a problem with the base??

>> >,

>> >how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

>> >could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

>> >before my mount gets the shakes,??

>> >,

>> >ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

>> >5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

>> >with a roll -off roof,

>> >thanks,

>> >john,

>> >

>> >

>> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>> >Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>

>>

>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>>

>>

>>

>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>

>>

>>

>>

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#14272 Mar 1, 2003

A. A. A. D. D. (Age Activated Attention Defecit Disorder) is what I

call it :)

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Jones nt7t@i...> wrote:

> Thanks Tom

>

> I was having a senior moment there. Couldn't remember his name for

> the life of me. And I had a long conversation with him too

because I

> was thinking of moving to Independence.

>

> Jim Jones

> nt7t@i...

>

> At 01:03 PM 03/01/2003 -0800, you wrote:

> >His name is Jon Brewster.

> >

> >www.proaxis.com/~sandstone/Astro/

> >

> >He has an 18 foot concrete pillar going up through his garage.

Works pretty

> >darn good.

> >

> >Tom Carrico

> >www.ccdargo.com

> >----- Original Message -----

> >From: "Jim Jones" nt7t@i...>

> >To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> >Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 10:06 AM

> >Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] concrete pier

> >

> >

> >> John, a fellow that lives near Monmouth, Oregon made a

> >> concrete pier tall enough so he could observe from his

> >> second floor deck. For the life of me, I can't remember

> >> his name. I think he made a short presentation at the

> >> Imaging the Sky Conference two years ago. It was a big

> >> deal to get the job done.

> >>

> >> If Jim Girard is around, maybe he remembers his name.

> >>

> >> Jim Jones

> >> nt7t@i...

> >>

> >>

> >> At 03:49 PM 03/01/2003 +0000, you wrote:

> >> >hi all,

> >> >i want to build a pier in my back yard,

> >> >ive got lots of bags of concrete,and sona tube,assort,sizes

> >> > (left over from my business)

> >> >and were going to pour a patio also, figure i might as well

pour the

> >> >tube at the same time,

> >> >can one pour a solid pier of concret? instead of metal piping?

> >> >i was thinking of burying a 2inch conduit pit in he pier and

run it

> >> >into the back of my house, for the wiring,

> >> >,

> >> >my house sits on sand, 6inches down from the grass,

> >> >is this a problem with the base??

> >> >,

> >> >how tall of a concrete pier can i get away with,

> >> >could i go 11-feet up from the ground level,?

> >> >before my mount gets the shakes,??

> >> >,

> >> >ill be building a shed around it, idealy the floor would be

> >> >5ft above gound level(lawnmower storage) then the observatory,

> >> >with a roll -off roof,

> >> >thanks,

> >> >john,

> >> >

> >> >

> >> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> >> >Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >> >

> >> >

> >> >

> >> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >>

> >>

> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> >> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> >Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >

> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#14273 Mar 1, 2003

thanks Jim,

itl give me literally "days" of reading,

,

ive already got the life-boat,

im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

and exploding bolts on the pier,

then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

,

john,



----------------------------

#14274 Mar 1, 2003

From: "cjl023 james.lacey@m...>" james.lacey@m...>

Date: Sat Mar 1, 2003 1:30 pm

Subject: Re: concrete pier



A. A. A. D. D. (Age Activated Attention Defecit Disorder) is what I

call it :)





hey ive got that,,i went to "b"lows the other day and got

distracted by one of the girls showing off a beutifull view

of her double stars,

got lost,

and then bought a drill bit instead of the tap for the

drill bit i already had,,,,

john,p,

soggy washington



----------------------------

#14276 Mar 2, 2003

Seriously, the taller the pier the more will be noticed the effect of

any ground movement at the base.The slightest movement due to

ground "heave" caused by rain or dryness will be exagerated. I have

this problem all the time.I am continually having to re-polar allign

between sessions. George.





-- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

jp.jep@v...> wrote: > thanks Jim,

> itl give me literally "days" of reading,

> ,

> ive already got the life-boat,

> im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

> and exploding bolts on the pier,

> then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

> oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

> ,

> john,



----------------------------

#14277 Mar 2, 2003

George,



I tend to agree with you. Simple trigonometry really :)



I guess the key is to have a large, and stable, base?



Here in North Texas I'm not sure that's possible as our soil has

lots of clay in it that constantly shrinks and expands as the soil

drys out and gets wet from rains. Foundation problems in this neck

of the woods are legendary. Seems like every homeowner has at least

one foundation story.



Out at my dark-sky site though, which is in the Hill-Country of

Texas, the soil is primarily rock and quite porus. Water just flows

right thorough it, which is partly why the creeks and streams in

that area run crystal clear. I think I will give it a try out there.

Couldn't cost me more than $100US to give it a try.



One question. How do you attach your G-11 to your pier?



Regards,



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gsben2000 siriusb@b...>"

siriusb@b...> wrote: > Seriously, the taller the pier the more will be noticed the effect

of > any ground movement at the base.The slightest movement due to

> ground "heave" caused by rain or dryness will be exagerated. I

have > this problem all the time.I am continually having to re-polar

allign > between sessions. George.

>

>

> -- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

> jp.jep@v...> wrote:

> > thanks Jim,

> > itl give me literally "days" of reading,

> > ,

> > ive already got the life-boat,

> > im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

> > and exploding bolts on the pier,

> > then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

> > oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

> > ,

> > john,



----------------------------

#14278 Mar 2, 2003

James use a Losmandy MA, it's a Meade adapter for using the G-11 on a

Meade tripod, they work great for pier mounting.

Scott makes them for the HGM200/Titan too.



Michael

astroden





-----Original Message-----

From: cjl023 james.lacey@...>

[mailto:james.lacey@...]

Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 9:53 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: concrete pier





George,



I tend to agree with you. Simple trigonometry really :)



I guess the key is to have a large, and stable, base?



Here in North Texas I'm not sure that's possible as our soil has

lots of clay in it that constantly shrinks and expands as the soil

drys out and gets wet from rains. Foundation problems in this neck

of the woods are legendary. Seems like every homeowner has at least

one foundation story.



Out at my dark-sky site though, which is in the Hill-Country of

Texas, the soil is primarily rock and quite porus. Water just flows

right thorough it, which is partly why the creeks and streams in

that area run crystal clear. I think I will give it a try out there.

Couldn't cost me more than $100US to give it a try.



One question. How do you attach your G-11 to your pier?



Regards,



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gsben2000 siriusb@b...>"

siriusb@b...> wrote: > Seriously, the taller the pier the more will be noticed the effect

of > any ground movement at the base.The slightest movement due to

> ground "heave" caused by rain or dryness will be exagerated. I

have > this problem all the time.I am continually having to re-polar

allign > between sessions. George.

>

>

> -- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

> jp.jep@v...> wrote:

> > thanks Jim,

> > itl give me literally "days" of reading,

> > ,

> > ive already got the life-boat,

> > im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

> > and exploding bolts on the pier,

> > then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

> > oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

> > ,

> > john,







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ADVERTISEMENT



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082806:HM/A=1464858/R=0/*www.gotomypc.com/u/tr/yh/cpm/grp/300_Cqu

o_1/g22lp?Target=mm/g22lp.tmpl> .



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----------------------------

#14279 Mar 2, 2003

Excellent! I'll take a look at it.



Thanks,



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Downing"

michael@s...> wrote: > James use a Losmandy MA, it's a Meade adapter for using the G-11

on a > Meade tripod, they work great for pier mounting.

> Scott makes them for the HGM200/Titan too.

>

> Michael

> astroden

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: cjl023 james.lacey@m...>

> [mailto:james.lacey@m...]

> Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 9:53 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: concrete pier

>

>

> George,

>

> I tend to agree with you. Simple trigonometry really :)

>

> I guess the key is to have a large, and stable, base?

>

> Here in North Texas I'm not sure that's possible as our soil has

> lots of clay in it that constantly shrinks and expands as the soil

> drys out and gets wet from rains. Foundation problems in this neck

> of the woods are legendary. Seems like every homeowner has at

least > one foundation story.

>

> Out at my dark-sky site though, which is in the Hill-Country of

> Texas, the soil is primarily rock and quite porus. Water just

flows > right thorough it, which is partly why the creeks and streams in

> that area run crystal clear. I think I will give it a try out

there. > Couldn't cost me more than $100US to give it a try.

>

> One question. How do you attach your G-11 to your pier?

>

> Regards,

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gsben2000 siriusb@b...>"

> siriusb@b...> wrote:

> > Seriously, the taller the pier the more will be noticed the

effect > of

> > any ground movement at the base.The slightest movement due to

> > ground "heave" caused by rain or dryness will be exagerated. I

> have

> > this problem all the time.I am continually having to re-polar

> allign

> > between sessions. George.

> >

> >

> > -- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

> > jp.jep@v...> wrote:

> > > thanks Jim,

> > > itl give me literally "days" of reading,

> > > ,

> > > ive already got the life-boat,

> > > im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

> > > and exploding bolts on the pier,

> > > then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

> > > oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

> > > ,

> > > john,

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor.

>

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>

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Cqu > o_1/g22lp?Target=mm/g22lp.tmpl> .

>

> us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?

M=246920.2960106.4328965.2848452/D=egrou > pmail/S=:HM/A=1464858/rand=802098675> .

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----------------------------

#14282 Mar 2, 2003

My pier is a 6ft length of 7" diameter clay drainage pipe set in a

cubic yard of concrete. The pipe was then filled with about 12" of

conc'e,then topped up with sand and finaly another 7-8" of cement. I

inserted a 1 mtr.length of 1/2" threaded rod down the center of the

pier before the cement set with about 4" protruding.The Meade field

tripod adaptor then bolts onto that.The only problem is fixing the

adaptor in the correct position pointing north. Not as simple as it

seems. A lot of trial and error, lifting the mount on and off before

bolting the adaptor firmly down. My 'scope is left set up on the pier

and I have constructed a ro-ro "tardis" to protect it from the

elements. It looks just like a "thunder box" George.(I will send you

some pictures pem)





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cjl023 james.lacey@m...>"

james.lacey@m...> wrote: > George,

>

> I tend to agree with you. Simple trigonometry really :)

>

> I guess the key is to have a large, and stable, base?

>

> Here in North Texas I'm not sure that's possible as our soil has

> lots of clay in it that constantly shrinks and expands as the soil

> drys out and gets wet from rains. Foundation problems in this neck

> of the woods are legendary. Seems like every homeowner has at least

> one foundation story.

>

> Out at my dark-sky site though, which is in the Hill-Country of

> Texas, the soil is primarily rock and quite porus. Water just flows

> right thorough it, which is partly why the creeks and streams in

> that area run crystal clear. I think I will give it a try out

there. > Couldn't cost me more than $100US to give it a try.

>

> One question. How do you attach your G-11 to your pier?

>

> Regards,

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gsben2000 siriusb@b...>"

> siriusb@b...> wrote:

> > Seriously, the taller the pier the more will be noticed the

effect > of

> > any ground movement at the base.The slightest movement due to

> > ground "heave" caused by rain or dryness will be exagerated. I

> have

> > this problem all the time.I am continually having to re-polar

> allign

> > between sessions. George.

> >

> >

> > -- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

> > jp.jep@v...> wrote:

> > > thanks Jim,

> > > itl give me literally "days" of reading,

> > > ,

> > > ive already got the life-boat,

> > > im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

> > > and exploding bolts on the pier,

> > > then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

> > > oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

> > > ,

> > > john,







----------------------------

#14283 Mar 2, 2003

SiriusB;



I'm in the final stages of constructing a pier myself. (6"x56"

Sched-40 w/flange, sandblasting sand and kitty litter filled, weighs about

185lbs, will sit on a 2'x2', 4' deep underground concrete pyramid with a

base of 4' sq.) I'll also be needing some sort of protection and I'd like

to see your "Tardis" idea. Sounds kewl. Could you send me a couple pic's

or a URL where you have it posted? Thkx...joe :)





"May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"



Joe Mize: www.svic.net/jmize

Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif

----- Original Message -----

From: siriusb@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:29 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: concrete pier





>

> My pier is a 6ft length of 7" diameter clay drainage pipe set in a

> cubic yard of concrete. The pipe was then filled with about 12" of

> conc'e,then topped up with sand and finaly another 7-8" of cement. I

> inserted a 1 mtr.length of 1/2" threaded rod down the center of the

> pier before the cement set with about 4" protruding.The Meade field

> tripod adaptor then bolts onto that.The only problem is fixing the

> adaptor in the correct position pointing north. Not as simple as it

> seems. A lot of trial and error, lifting the mount on and off before

> bolting the adaptor firmly down. My 'scope is left set up on the pier

> and I have constructed a ro-ro "tardis" to protect it from the

> elements. It looks just like a "thunder box" George.(I will send you

> some pictures pem)

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cjl023 james.lacey@m...>"

> james.lacey@m...> wrote:

> > George,

> >

> > I tend to agree with you. Simple trigonometry really :)

> >

> > I guess the key is to have a large, and stable, base?

> >

> > Here in North Texas I'm not sure that's possible as our soil has

> > lots of clay in it that constantly shrinks and expands as the soil

> > drys out and gets wet from rains. Foundation problems in this neck

> > of the woods are legendary. Seems like every homeowner has at least

> > one foundation story.

> >

> > Out at my dark-sky site though, which is in the Hill-Country of

> > Texas, the soil is primarily rock and quite porus. Water just flows

> > right thorough it, which is partly why the creeks and streams in

> > that area run crystal clear. I think I will give it a try out

> there.

> > Couldn't cost me more than $100US to give it a try.

> >

> > One question. How do you attach your G-11 to your pier?

> >

> > Regards,

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gsben2000 siriusb@b...>"

> > siriusb@b...> wrote:

> > > Seriously, the taller the pier the more will be noticed the

> effect

> > of

> > > any ground movement at the base.The slightest movement due to

> > > ground "heave" caused by rain or dryness will be exagerated. I

> > have

> > > this problem all the time.I am continually having to re-polar

> > allign

> > > between sessions. George.

> > >

> > >

> > > -- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jpike98271 jp.jep@v...>"

> > > jp.jep@v...> wrote:

> > > > thanks Jim,

> > > > itl give me literally "days" of reading,

> > > > ,

> > > > ive already got the life-boat,

> > > > im figuting to put water sensors on the scope/mount base

> > > > and exploding bolts on the pier,

> > > > then a inflating wraparound raft,,,,,grin,

> > > > oh ya a homing beacon also,,,with a "red-strobe-lite,,,,

> > > > ,

> > > > john,

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>



----------------------------

#14559 Mar 27, 2003

Hi

My Astro-buddy and I both have G-11 mounts. He has a 10" Meade SCT

on his and I have a C-14 on mine.

Whenever we are out observing, it never fails that we both cry and

moan over some of the ridiculous positions that have to assumed when

locating and looking at objects in widely varying parts of the sky.

Has anyone ever tried to somehow modify or build a PORTABLE pier for

the G-11 that has about a foot of height adjustment to help overcome

the seemingly unavoidable contortions.

The main concern of course is stability at all heights and weight /

ease of setup.

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bernd



----------------------------

#14561 Mar 28, 2003

If you don't mind shelling out a few bucks, Pier-Tech sells hydaulic piers that are portable. Reviews have been very good. If properly leveled to start with, objects will stay in the FOV while raising or lowering the mount! Very handy indeed. They come in 3 basic flavors, I think, and all are portable with the largest version weighing in at around 70 lbs. FYI.



Mark ----- Original Message -----

From: Bernd

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 10:24 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Height adjustable pier???





Hi

My Astro-buddy and I both have G-11 mounts. He has a 10" Meade SCT

on his and I have a C-14 on mine.

Whenever we are out observing, it never fails that we both cry and

moan over some of the ridiculous positions that have to assumed when

locating and looking at objects in widely varying parts of the sky.

Has anyone ever tried to somehow modify or build a PORTABLE pier for

the G-11 that has about a foot of height adjustment to help overcome

the seemingly unavoidable contortions.

The main concern of course is stability at all heights and weight /

ease of setup.

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bernd







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#14564 Mar 28, 2003

Hi Mark

Thanks...I appreciate the info and I will check it out right now.



Bernd



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Beale" m.beale@p...>

wrote: > If you don't mind shelling out a few bucks, Pier-Tech sells

hydaulic piers that are portable. Reviews have been very good. If

properly leveled to start with, objects will stay in the FOV while

raising or lowering the mount! Very handy indeed. They come in 3

basic flavors, I think, and all are portable with the largest

version weighing in at around 70 lbs. FYI. >

> Mark

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Bernd

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 10:24 PM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Height adjustable pier???

>

>

> Hi

> My Astro-buddy and I both have G-11 mounts. He has a 10" Meade

SCT > on his and I have a C-14 on mine.

> Whenever we are out observing, it never fails that we both cry

and > moan over some of the ridiculous positions that have to assumed

when > locating and looking at objects in widely varying parts of the

sky. > Has anyone ever tried to somehow modify or build a PORTABLE pier

for > the G-11 that has about a foot of height adjustment to help

overcome > the seemingly unavoidable contortions.

> The main concern of course is stability at all heights and

weight / > ease of setup.

> Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

> Thanks

> Bernd

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

> ADVERTISEMENT

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

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Service. >

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#14566 Mar 28, 2003

Hi Bernd...I am selling my older G-11 as I just got my new G-11 Gemini, but I am also selling my C-14 OTA as I understood that y older G-11 could NOT withstand the weight of the 14 and when I tried it didn't work ( see both ads on astromart.com ) How much weight do you use and do you also account for a digonal, 2" eye pieces, spotting scope ( I just bought a Stellareview 1010 especially for the scope ) and or any type of camera systems for the added weight? James

Bernd n6rmc@...> wrote:Hi Mark

Thanks...I appreciate the info and I will check it out right now.



Bernd



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Beale" m.beale@p...>

wrote: > If you don't mind shelling out a few bucks, Pier-Tech sells

hydaulic piers that are portable. Reviews have been very good. If

properly leveled to start with, objects will stay in the FOV while

raising or lowering the mount! Very handy indeed. They come in 3

basic flavors, I think, and all are portable with the largest

version weighing in at around 70 lbs. FYI. >

> Mark

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Bernd

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 10:24 PM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Height adjustable pier???

>

>

> Hi

> My Astro-buddy and I both have G-11 mounts. He has a 10" Meade

SCT > on his and I have a C-14 on mine.

> Whenever we are out observing, it never fails that we both cry

and > moan over some of the ridiculous positions that have to assumed

when > locating and looking at objects in widely varying parts of the

sky. > Has anyone ever tried to somehow modify or build a PORTABLE pier

for > the G-11 that has about a foot of height adjustment to help

overcome > the seemingly unavoidable contortions.

> The main concern of course is stability at all heights and

weight / > ease of setup.

> Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

> Thanks

> Bernd

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

> ADVERTISEMENT

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

Service. >

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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----------------------------

#14588 Mar 30, 2003

Hi ya Bernd...Thanks for responding...Yes, I've had a number of inquiries but no real buyers...It's a shame, the C-14 just sits in the case in my garage which truly needs someone to put this beauty to use...Oh well, someone will eventually come along...Other then that, how is the viewing and are you taking any pic's? Your use of an SLR is very interesting.

Best always, James



Bernd n6rmc@...> wrote:Hello Jim



My G-11 is a 1996 version with Celestron's name on it. It has been

super tweaked (by me) and has additional bearings at the top end of

both axis. All grease has been replaced with high grade lithium for

freer motion. There is as close to zero backlash on both the Dec and

RA axis as I think possible.

I use a 1996 C-14 with 9X50 finder, a Telrad, adjustable Losmandy

sliding weight on the dovetail plate. I also routinely use a 2"

mirror diagonal with up to and including a Panoptic 35 and a TV 55mm

plossl. I also use the JMI moto focusser.

I also have the top rail camera mount for a 35mm SLR with either a

generic 400mm f6 telefoto lens or a 180mm f2.8 Zeiss telefoto.

I balance all this with 2 22# weights at the end of the shaft with

no problem.

The mount seems to handle all this with no problem and it tracks

beautifully.

Good luck selling your eqipment, I have seen the ads. It's a very

nice setup.



Bernd





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Edwards

jaedwards99@y...> wrote: >

> Hi Bernd...I am selling my older G-11 as I just got my new G-11

Gemini, but I am also selling my C-14 OTA as I understood that y

older G-11 could NOT withstand the weight of the 14 and when I tried

it didn't work ( see both ads on astromart.com ) How much weight do

you use and do you also account for a digonal, 2" eye pieces,

spotting scope ( I just bought a Stellareview 1010 especially for

the scope ) and or any type of camera systems for the added weight?

James







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#14592 Mar 30, 2003

Hi James



You're right, it is a real shame to let such a scope/mount languish

in the garage. I don't quite understand why your G-11 had trouble

with the C-14. They were made for each other. Celestron sold my

setup as a package (the CG-14) and I've had no trouble with it at

all.

As far as my astrphotography goes, I am just starting to get my feet

wet. I have the 35mm equip I mentioned but I think I will get into

the digital area more. I have a SAC-7 Color CCD camera and there is

also my Nikon 4500 camera which is surprisingly capable, with an ISO

of 800 and a 5 minutes exposure AND noise reduction capabilities. So

I have more than enought stuff to really get into trouble with

(grin).

I can't remember for sure but are you selling both the C-14 and the

G-11? Send me an email (n6rmc@...) with your best price on

both. I know someone who wants to get into the hobby and he does

lust after my 14.

Take care

Bernd



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Edwards

jaedwards99@y...> wrote: >

> Hi ya Bernd...Thanks for responding...Yes, I've had a number of

inquiries but no real buyers...It's a shame, the C-14 just sits in

the case in my garage which truly needs someone to put this beauty

to use...Oh well, someone will eventually come along...Other then

that, how is the viewing and are you taking any pic's? Your use of

an SLR is very interesting. > Best always, James

>



----------------------------

#14696 Apr 7, 2003

I've got a 10 foot Home-Dome coming hopefully later this month and am

working on the building design. My question is: where should the pier

go? I've got a 48" tall massive steel pier from a surplus military

antenna that I'm going to use.



The mount is a Losmandy Titan with a C11 on it. It would seem from

measurements of scope movements while setup in my office that the

center of the dome would work fine. Does anyone have any practical

advise based on their own experiences with the Titan or G11 or other

similar mount design?



Pier height is another thing I'm going to have to struggle with, but

that is another issue.



Regards,



Dave Lane



----------------------------

#14698 Apr 7, 2003

Dave:



If you plan to view in a 360d field, the center of the dome is the only place for it to go. As for ht. of the pier, if you have it set-up inside, you can determine how high you find comfortable for the majority of your viewing targets and what you plan to do; view, photo/image (may be different from plain viewing ht.). You can adjust where the bottom of the pier should be in your building plans. Do check that the Titan's mounting surface is truely horizontal (perpendicular to the pier).

Harry ----- Original Message -----

From: Dave Lane

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:06 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] pier location in permanent dome?





I've got a 10 foot Home-Dome coming hopefully later this month and am

working on the building design. My question is: where should the pier

go? I've got a 48" tall massive steel pier from a surplus military

antenna that I'm going to use.



The mount is a Losmandy Titan with a C11 on it. It would seem from

measurements of scope movements while setup in my office that the

center of the dome would work fine. Does anyone have any practical

advise based on their own experiences with the Titan or G11 or other

similar mount design?



Pier height is another thing I'm going to have to struggle with, but

that is another issue.



Regards,



Dave Lane







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#14705 Apr 8, 2003

Dave;



The Titan is huge, about three times larger than a G-11 mount. When I

unpacked mine everyone was amazed at its size. Center you mount/pier in the

center of your dome. You'll love it once you get things purring. Have fun

with your early Christmas present...joe :)





"May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"



Joe Mize: www.svic.net/jmize

29:24'33.4"N 82:51'37.7"W

Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif

----- Original Message -----

From: "Dave Lane" dlane@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:06 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] pier location in permanent dome?





> I've got a 10 foot Home-Dome coming hopefully later this month and am

> working on the building design. My question is: where should the pier

> go? I've got a 48" tall massive steel pier from a surplus military

> antenna that I'm going to use.

>

> The mount is a Losmandy Titan with a C11 on it. It would seem from

> measurements of scope movements while setup in my office that the

> center of the dome would work fine. Does anyone have any practical

> advise based on their own experiences with the Titan or G11 or other

> similar mount design?

>

> Pier height is another thing I'm going to have to struggle with, but

> that is another issue.

>

> Regards,

>

> Dave Lane

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







----------------------------

#14712 Apr 8, 2003

Dave,.



Place the pier centered in the E-W direction and in the northern hem. offset

to the S so that the intersection of the RA and DEC axes is at the center

point of the dome.



Robert Branch, the Astronut





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#14744 Apr 9, 2003

Dave,



If you project a line through the intersection of the RA and DEC axes to the

floor of the observatory you will find that it will not move ai any position

the telescope is placed in. The offset is small with a GEM of the size we

use. My G-11 is offset 3 3/4 inches to the south at 34 deg. N. lat. The only

pier that is always dead center in a dome is an Alt.-Az. ( Dob )



Good luck with your project-- Old Bob the Astronut





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#14845 Apr 16, 2003

Hi folks,



I will be getting a pier soon for my G11 mount. It will be 48" high

and will hold a TEC140 refractor (22lbs). There are several pier

mfgrs (Astro Sky, LeSeuer) who offer a pier made for the G11. It is

6" diamater and either aluminum (AstroSky) or steel.



I was wondering if a 48" high 6" diameter pier will be "solid"

enough for this setup, in order to minimize vibrations for visual

work. I could opt for a larger 8" pier but it is a significant jump

in cost and I don't know if the benefit would be noticeable at the

eyepiece. I could fill the 6" pier with sand to help.



Any feedback out there? What have people found with their 6" pier?



Thanks in advance.



Regards,

Rob



----------------------------

#14852 Apr 16, 2003

Rob, I have a 6" pier from LeSeuer (highly recommended -- great

service). The specification for the 48" pier is that it'll support in

excess of 1000lb without a problem. I have no vibration problems with

this pier with 50 lbs of scope equipment on a G11/Gemini. Even for

ccd work.



IMHO, 6" should be plenty for a 22lb visual load :)



Regards,



-Paul



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "albireo13" albireo13@h...>

wrote: > Hi folks,

>

> I will be getting a pier soon for my G11 mount. It will be 48"

high > and will hold a TEC140 refractor (22lbs). There are several pier

> mfgrs (Astro Sky, LeSeuer) who offer a pier made for the G11. It

is > 6" diamater and either aluminum (AstroSky) or steel.

>

> I was wondering if a 48" high 6" diameter pier will be "solid"

> enough for this setup, in order to minimize vibrations for visual

> work. I could opt for a larger 8" pier but it is a significant

jump > in cost and I don't know if the benefit would be noticeable at the

> eyepiece. I could fill the 6" pier with sand to help.

>

> Any feedback out there? What have people found with their 6"

pier? >

> Thanks in advance.

>

> Regards,

> Rob



----------------------------

#14853 Apr 16, 2003

Inspiers me for my first comment. Received a brand new G11 3 days ago. It is with Escap motors and I already had the FS2 controller. First thing I did was to bore 4 vertical holes in the G11-s ground plate - for 4 pcs of 8x50mm (inhex) screws. They hide well below the surface and aside of the small unnessecary under-plate. (1/2mm clearance at each side :-) ). Those screws have been screwed into my flat surface mounting plate. Hence - I feel the g11 can be used on any flat surface - not needing a special designed mount or pier.

Traded the dreaded EQ6 for the G11 - and switched yahoogroup accordingly... (They were not happy there at EQ6 eventually - entertainig though to follow it..... We had extremely bad PE and no one seemed to find a cure.)



All right: First impression of my G11 ( have had GP, GP-DX, SX90, GP, EQ6, and LX200 with various contolling systems).

1. Polar is very friendly! Have a concrete pier - but to start I had to use the polar finder - it was very very easy - LED light included.

2. Backlash in the AZ adjustment... (have read about that...)

3. Surprice for me - it is a friction mount, I was not aware.. Nice - just slide to a star (and make it "ref" to the FS2 controller)

4. Not that heavy - the EQ6 piece of was much heavier.



/Goran











folks,



I will be getting a pier soon for my G11 mount. It will be 48" high

and will hold a TEC140 refractor (22lbs). There are several pier

mfgrs (Astro Sky, LeSeuer) who offer a pier made for the G11. It is

6" diamater and either aluminum (AstroSky) or steel.



I was wondering if a 48" high 6" diameter pier will be "solid"

enough for this setup, in order to minimize vibrations for visual

work. I could opt for a larger 8" pier but it is a significant jump

in cost and I don't know if the benefit would be noticeable at the

eyepiece. I could fill the 6" pier with sand to help.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#15520 Jun 4, 2003

Hello Group,



Some of you may know about my new product, the Monolith Support

System. Until now I have been concentrating on the 10" diameter

model for large mounts such as AP 1200 and Paramount ME. With the

production of the 10" going steady now, I like to start work on the

6" and the 8" diameter versions, especially the 8" version for the

Titan mount.



I am turning to the group in hopes of finding help. If you own a

Titan mount and you live in SF Bay Area, and would like to help me

with the measurements and input I need from the Titan mount, please

contact me. Your assistance is most appreciated.



Thank you,



Sean Zarehparvar

Particle Wave Technologies

www.pwtec.com







----------------------------

#15600 Jun 9, 2003

While I have seen Paul's GEM table, and it is a very well made product, I

have a hard time justifying spending the money when I made something about 5

years ago that's still working well for me today. If you're on a budget,

take a look at mywebpages.comcast.net/argojg/pier_table.jpg



It cost about $5 to make, took about an hour or two, requires minimal

woodworking tools and skills, and depending on what material you make it out

of, lasts quite a while. Mine is made out of 1/2" baltic birch plywood, with

a couple coats of marine varnish for protection. I've used it for 5 seasons

out at ARGO (high desert country in central Oregon) and it still works fine.

A fresh coat of polyurethane every year or two is the only maintenance

needed. It just slips over the pier and is held in position by one knob

which cinches the cut end together.



Jim Girard



----------------------------

#15602 Jun 9, 2003

Jim,



I cannot get your picture to open.



Paul Atkinson



In a message dated 6/9/2003 2:57:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

argojg@... writes:

> at mywebpages.comcast.net/argojg/pier_table.jpg

>

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#15603 Jun 9, 2003

----- Original Message -----

From: paulatkinson22@...>

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier table alternative





> I cannot get your picture to open.



Paul,



It should be working -- I just tried it and it was. BTW, I based my design

on another, earlier design I had found at Paul Laughton's web page:

www.laughton.com/paul/rfo/telescopes/gm11table.html Mine's a slight

modification of his.



Jim Girard



----------------------------

#15658 Jun 12, 2003

Jim,



I looked over both of the pictures posted regarding an alternative to

my GEM Table. I would like to point out some major differences in

the table you present and what I am offering:



First, the table you are using is located farther down on a regular

pier. 95% of the people using the G11 and G8 setups use the original

Losmandy Mini-pier and legs. I think you would have very serious

trouble using your table on the mini-pier. On the mini-pier you only

have about 6 inches of room to place the table from the top of the

pier to the place where the leg attachment points flare out. This is

very little room to attach anything. In addition, on the mini-pier

you also have the computer bracket where the drive control box or

Gemini is placed. These fixed brackets can't be removed and further

hamper where you can place a table as well as placement of the mount

head itself.



In addition, your table being square and extending out in all

directions around the pier, could cause problems where the

counterweight shaft passes, or in certain viewing positions where the

scope may be at the Eastside or Westside of the mount. In these

positions, there could be contact between the shaft or the scope with

your table. THIS WAS A HUGE CONCERN IN MY DESIGN. My table was

designed specifically around the G11/G8 mini-pier as that is what I

use. There CANNOT be contact by the counterweight shaft with proper

placement of my table, nor by the telescope.



I have uploaded a photo to the group called GEM Table. Here you can

see what I am talking about in a picture showing my original proto

table on my G11. I apologize for the darkness of the image but you

can clearly see where the computer needs to go and the small amount

of room for placement of a table of alternate design. You can also

see that if the table swings to the Eastside or Westside that there

is very little chance of the scope hitting the table. Also, you can

see that

the Gemini, or computer control box, easily swings down in place

because of my unique low profile design. All of the work area is

behind the

RA axis where there is the least chance of any interference.



Lastly, My table provides a good 13" Deep x 18" Wide work surface.

With your table there appears to be a much smaller amount of actual

working surface area and very little room for EP holes like mine.



Here are some points to remember about the GEM Table:



The original Gem table was designed around the Losmandy G11 mini-

pier, as that is what I use.

It fits the mini-pier as well as OTHER regular piers.

It is extremely high quality and durable.

It cost LESS than one good premium EP!

It will last forever, with proper care.

It will not warp are be harmed by moisture, heat, or the enviornment.



Certainly there are alternative available for those that are inclined

to make something, or that want to save a few dollars. I respect

that. However, my table was designed for those who want a high grade

accompaniment to their Losmandy setups.



Paul Atkinson

AstroPro Products



----------------------------

#15659 Jun 12, 2003

Paul,



Your table is one of the best, if not the best, table designs I've seen.

There are those who will purchase this high quality item, as you say,

and there are those who will opt to build something that will work for

them as well.



Personally, I find myself in a third camp. Aside from having my Gemini

and electric focus control attached to my G-11, I would prefer to have

everything else removed from my mount. I take a lot of time

polar-aligning and getting photo, video, or CCD equipment ready to work

and I have a phobia of touching anything on the mount that is not

necessary. The G-11 is a substantial mount but I would rather use a

separate table to hold my laptop, ST-4 relay box, CCD cpu, eyepieces and

other stuff I should have left at home. You do supply an outstanding,

well-made, product. I only wish you would offer a card-table size,

Losmandy-black, fold-up to the size of a laptop, table I could take out

to the wild. Perhaps it could also hold a holster for a 38 Smith &

Wesson, as cougars are sometimes a problem here.



Bryan Snow

Texas Observer



paulatkinson22 wrote:

>Jim,

>

>I looked over both of the pictures posted regarding an alternative to

>my GEM Table. I would like to point out some major differences in

>the table you present and what I am offering:

>

>First, the table you are using is located farther down on a regular

>pier. 95% of the people using the G11 and G8 setups use the original

>Losmandy Mini-pier and legs. I think you would have very serious

>trouble using your table on the mini-pier. On the mini-pier you only

>have about 6 inches of room to place the table from the top of the

>pier to the place where the leg attachment points flare out. This is

>very little room to attach anything. In addition, on the mini-pier

>you also have the computer bracket where the drive control box or

>Gemini is placed. These fixed brackets can't be removed and further

>hamper where you can place a table as well as placement of the mount

>head itself.

>

>In addition, the your table being square and extending out in all

>directions around the pier, could cause problems where the

>counterweight shaft passes, or in certain viewing positions where the

>scope may be at the Eastside or Westside of the mount. In these

>positions, there could be contact between the shaft or the scope with

>your table. THIS WAS A HUGE CONCERN IN MY DESIGN. My table was

>designed specifically around the G11/G8 mini-pier as that is what I

>use. There CANNOT be contact by the counterweight shaft with proper

>placement of my table, nor by the telescope. Also, you can see that

>the Gemini, or computer control box, easily swings down in place

>because of my unique low profile design.

>

>I have uploaded a photo to the group called GEM Table. Here you can

>see what I am talking about in a picture showing my original proto

>table on my G11. I apologize for the darkness of the image but you

>can clearly see where the computer needs to go and the small amount

>of room for placement of a table of alternate design. You can also

>see that if the table swings to the Eastside or Westside that there

>is very little chance of the scope hitting the table. All of the

>work area is behind the RA axis where there is the least chance of

>any interference.

>

>Here are some points to remember about the GEM Table:

>

>The original Gem table was designed around the Losmandy G11 mini-

>pier, as that is what I use.

>It fits the mini-pier as well as OTHER regular piers.

>It is extremely high quality and durable.

>It cost LESS than one good premium EP!

>It will last forever, with proper care.

>It will not warp are be harmed by moisture, heat, or the enviornment.

>

>Certainly there are alternative available for those that are inclined

>to make something, or that want to save a few dollars. I respect

>that. However, my table was designed for those who want a high grade

>accompaniment to their Losmandy setups.

>

>Paul Atkinson

>AstroPro Products

>

>

>--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Girard argojg@c...> wrote:

>

>

>>While I have seen Paul's GEM table, and it is a very well made

>>

>>

>product, I

>

>

>>have a hard time justifying spending the money when I made

>>

>>

>something about 5

>

>

>>years ago that's still working well for me today. If you're on a

>>

>>

>budget,

>

>

>>take a look at mywebpages.comcast.net/argojg/pier_table.jpg

>>

>>It cost about $5 to make, took about an hour or two, requires

>>

>>

>minimal

>

>

>>woodworking tools and skills, and depending on what material you

>>

>>

>make it out

>

>

>>of, lasts quite a while. Mine is made out of 1/2" baltic birch

>>

>>

>plywood, with

>

>

>>a couple coats of marine varnish for protection. I've used it for 5

>>

>>

>seasons

>

>

>>out at ARGO (high desert country in central Oregon) and it still

>>

>>

>works fine.

>

>

>>A fresh coat of polyurethane every year or two is the only

>>

>>

>maintenance

>

>

>>needed. It just slips over the pier and is held in position by one

>>

>>

>knob

>

>

>>which cinches the cut end together.

>>

>>Jim Girard

>>

>>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

>

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#15660 Jun 12, 2003

Bryan,



I am working on some options on a stand alone table. We'll see if there is a

demand for something like that. If people are interested, email me.



I have run into a few people that don't want anything on their piers due to

the very reason you state. Some just don't want anything to touch the pier for

fear of shaking it. What I find ironic is the fact that the majority of

buyers have been CCD imagers! Go figure. In fact, the gentleman who won the CCD

contest at the Winter Star Party 2003 in the Keys was using a GEM Table to

hold his STV on his ATS pier. His image was featured during the CBS Sunday

morning piece that was done with Charles Karault (sp?) a few weeks after the

shuttle disaster.



Paul Atkinson





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#15661 Jun 12, 2003

----- Original Message -----

From: "paulatkinson22" paulatkinson22@...>

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier Table Alternative vs. GEM Table Revisited





> First, the table you are using is located farther down on a regular

> pier. 95% of the people using the G11 and G8 setups use the original

> Losmandy Mini-pier and legs. I think you would have very serious

> trouble using your table on the mini-pier.



Paul,



I don't deny that you have a fine product. On the other hand, after paying

for an upgrade to my SBIG camera and paying for an AP900 this year, my toy

budget is pretty much blown g>.



I only use the table on the pier out at our dark sky observing site (ARGO.)

I leave it out there -- just one less thing to forget to bring. It's worked

fine for the five years I've used it out there. At home I have a different

solution which solves a number of problems. It keeps everything well out of

the way, allows me to leave it all set up and able to wheel out to the front

porch whenever the mood strikes. A permanent observatory would be nice, but

probably not in the cards right now. My home setup can be seen at

mywebpages.comcast.net/argojg/portable_pier2.jpg and

mywebpages.comcast.net/argojg/portable_pier1.jpg



Cost a little more than $5, but not by much g>.



Jim Girard



----------------------------

#15662 Jun 12, 2003

Jim,



I hope I didn't seem like I was slamming you. I was just pointing out the

differences of the two setups and a few of the problems I run into when I came

up with the idea.



Paul Atkinson





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#15666 Jun 13, 2003

I found interesting the discusion regarding using the GEM table. In my case I find that I use both the GEM table and a card table. The GEM table is great for items such items as the power supply for the ST-8E because the cable is so short and stiff. If it is setting on the card table it is easy for it to shake the scope. This leaves more space on the card table for items such as the laptop and charts.

Dan ----- Original Message -----

From: paulatkinson22@...

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 1:25 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier Table Alternative vs. GEM Table Revisited





Bryan,



I am working on some options on a stand alone table. We'll see if there is a

demand for something like that. If people are interested, email me.



I have run into a few people that don't want anything on their piers due to

the very reason you state. Some just don't want anything to touch the pier for

fear of shaking it. What I find ironic is the fact that the majority of

buyers have been CCD imagers! Go figure. In fact, the gentleman who won the CCD

contest at the Winter Star Party 2003 in the Keys was using a GEM Table to

hold his STV on his ATS pier. His image was featured during the CBS Sunday

morning piece that was done with Charles Karault (sp?) a few weeks after the

shuttle disaster.



Paul Atkinson





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

ADVERTISEMENT









To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#16304 Jul 23, 2003

What is the best way to pack a G-11 tripod/pier? It would be

nice to have something that would prevent the metal from

being scratched.



Mostly this tripod will simply be travelling

in the back of a Honda, so the case or bag doesn't have to be

too heavy-duty.



Ideally it would have some sort of pockets to keep the parts

separated from each other so they don't bang together in

transit.



Thanks for any suggestions!



Clear skies,



Justin Morgan

Bellevue, WA



----------------------------

#16305 Jul 24, 2003

I brought some flanel material to a tailor and he made me bags with draw

strings for both the tripod and the legs.



Mike



At 06:06 AM 7/24/2003 +0000, you wrote: >What is the best way to pack a G-11 tripod/pier? It would be

>nice to have something that would prevent the metal from

>being scratched.

>

>Mostly this tripod will simply be travelling

>in the back of a Honda, so the case or bag doesn't have to be

>too heavy-duty.

>

>Ideally it would have some sort of pockets to keep the parts

>separated from each other so they don't bang together in

>transit.

>

>Thanks for any suggestions!

>

>Clear skies,

>

>Justin Morgan

>Bellevue, WA

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#16306 Jul 24, 2003

I brought some flanel material to a tailor and he made me bags with draw

> strings for both the tripod and the legs.



Wow, that's an excellent suggestion. Thanks! Perhaps I might be

able to recruit my mom into making some bags for me free of charge,

since she knows her way around a sewing machine. :-)



Do you put the individual bags into a larger duffel bag or case

of some sort?



Clear skies,



Justin Morgan

Bellevue, WA





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Michael Rudolph mrudolph@p...>

wrote: > I brought some flanel material to a tailor and he made me bags with draw

> strings for both the tripod and the legs.

>

> Mike

>

> At 06:06 AM 7/24/2003 +0000, you wrote:

> >What is the best way to pack a G-11 tripod/pier? It would be

> >nice to have something that would prevent the metal from

> >being scratched.



----------------------------

#16318 Jul 24, 2003

I place each of the tripod legs in a plastic tent bag (normally used

for carrying a roll-up tent). The three legs are then carried in a

bag for carrying baseball bats. The bat bag also has a pouch inside

that I use for the counterweight bar. I got both types of bags at

Sport Chalet.



Alson



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "shinysteelrobot"

justin_t_morgan@h...> wrote: > What is the best way to pack a G-11 tripod/pier? It would be

> nice to have something that would prevent the metal from

> being scratched.

>

> Mostly this tripod will simply be travelling

> in the back of a Honda, so the case or bag doesn't have to be

> too heavy-duty.

>

> Ideally it would have some sort of pockets to keep the parts

> separated from each other so they don't bang together in

> transit.

>

> Thanks for any suggestions!

>

> Clear skies,

>

> Justin Morgan

> Bellevue, WA



----------------------------

#16319 Jul 24, 2003

Justin,



I bought a heavy-duty zippered golf club bag (Target) and lined the

sides and bottom with a piece of 3/4" high-density foam used by

campers (WalMart). Spray adhesive works great to hold it in place.



Since I had several broken folding aluminum/nylon chairs, the storage

sleeves they came with are used as a slip cover for each tripod leg.

Nowadays, these chairs sell for $5 bucks or so which is a lot cheaper

than trying to sew something. Just make sure the sleeve is long

enough for your tripod leg.



The tripod "pier" goes top down into the golf bag and each of the

removable legs goes into a chair sleeve. Just stick the legs into

the bag and zip it up. Even if the tripod parts move around, there is

no metal to metal contact.



Lee



----------------------------

#16324 Jul 24, 2003

Exactly!



Mike



At 10:59 AM 7/24/2003 +0000, you wrote: > > I brought some flanel material to a tailor and he made me bags with draw

> > strings for both the tripod and the legs.

>

>Wow, that's an excellent suggestion. Thanks! Perhaps I might be

>able to recruit my mom into making some bags for me free of charge,

>since she knows her way around a sewing machine. :-)

>

>Do you put the individual bags into a larger duffel bag or case

>of some sort?

>

>Clear skies,

>

>Justin Morgan

>Bellevue, WA

>

>

>--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Michael Rudolph mrudolph@p...>

>wrote:

> > I brought some flanel material to a tailor and he made me bags with draw

> > strings for both the tripod and the legs.

> >

> > Mike

> >

> > At 06:06 AM 7/24/2003 +0000, you wrote:

> > >What is the best way to pack a G-11 tripod/pier? It would be

> > >nice to have something that would prevent the metal from

> > >being scratched.

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#16337 Jul 25, 2003

My "pier" is packed in a heavy-duty corrugated cardboard box I found

behind a local supermarket.



The tripod is also in a heavy-duty corrugated box (I purchased it at

Mailboxes Etc. for a very reasonable price). I wrap two of the legs

in bubble wrap. That keeps the third leg "isolated" from the other

two. No clanging, no denting, no scratching and really cheap.



The only caveat - once I get out in the field the boxes have to

remain stored in the back of my truck (covered by a fiberglass

tonneau) - they don't like water!

Art



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "shinysteelrobot"

justin_t_morgan@h...> wrote: > What is the best way to pack a G-11 tripod/pier? It would be

> nice to have something that would prevent the metal from

> being scratched.

>

> Mostly this tripod will simply be travelling

> in the back of a Honda, so the case or bag doesn't have to be

> too heavy-duty.

>

> Ideally it would have some sort of pockets to keep the parts

> separated from each other so they don't bang together in

> transit.

>

> Thanks for any suggestions!

>

> Clear skies,

>

> Justin Morgan

> Bellevue, WA







----------------------------

#16354 Jul 27, 2003

Thanks to everyone for their excellent suggestions. I'll probably

get a Pelican case for the G-11 tripod head. Anyone know which

size Pelican will fit the tripod head?



It hadn't occurred to me to use comping or sports equipment to

carry the G-11. That gave me an idea...



I practice the martial art of Kendo (Japanese swordfighting), and

it occurred to me to use the bag for a shinai (bamboo practice

sword) for each leg of the tripod. These bags can be relatively

inexpensive and are about the right size (i.e., made to hold a

long round object). Here's an example:

www.e-bogu.com/greenshinbag.html



Then I might be able to stuff all the legs and bags into a larger

shinai bag. This is a little cheaper than the baseball bat bag

from the local Gart Sports store. I don't have one of these

yet, so I don't know if it will fit all three tripod legs, but I

will try it and post the results. Here's an example:

www.e-bogu.com/shinbagfor5s.html



(I have no affilition with e-bogu.com other than as a

happy customer.)



Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions!



Clear skies,



Justin Morgan



----------------------------

#16355 Jul 27, 2003

Justin,



The 1620 is an excellent choice, I have a few pictures via my web site's

Equipment page.



Forrest Egan

fegan@...

www.digitalastro.com



-----Original Message-----

From: Justin Morgan [mailto:justin_t_morgan@...]

Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 2:50 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Case for tripod pier and legs?





Thanks to everyone for their excellent suggestions. I'll probably

get a Pelican case for the G-11 tripod head. Anyone know which

size Pelican will fit the tripod head?



It hadn't occurred to me to use comping or sports equipment to

carry the G-11. That gave me an idea...



I practice the martial art of Kendo (Japanese swordfighting), and

it occurred to me to use the bag for a shinai (bamboo practice

sword) for each leg of the tripod. These bags can be relatively

inexpensive and are about the right size (i.e., made to hold a

long round object). Here's an example:

www.e-bogu.com/greenshinbag.html



Then I might be able to stuff all the legs and bags into a larger

shinai bag. This is a little cheaper than the baseball bat bag

from the local Gart Sports store. I don't have one of these

yet, so I don't know if it will fit all three tripod legs, but I

will try it and post the results. Here's an example:

www.e-bogu.com/shinbagfor5s.html



(I have no affilition with e-bogu.com other than as a

happy customer.)



Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions!



Clear skies,



Justin Morgan



----------------------------

#16360 Jul 28, 2003

I acquired a MN71 Mak-Newt and used it on a G11 for the first time last night. The

views were great, but I ran into several problems that some of you may be familiar

with.



The OTA bumped into the tripod legs when pointed near the zenith. It seems that I'd

need to replace the tripod with a short pier. Any recommendations?



Also rotating the tube by loosening the ring clamps was a pain. Any suggestion for

rotating tube rings. I looked at Parallax web site, and their rotating rings are

expensive (over $400). Besides, my tube is 9" OD, and they have only a 9.5".



Thanks in advance,

Yuen



----------------------------

#16364 Jul 29, 2003

Hi Yuen,



You may consider getting a Losmandy EX-12 pier extension for your G-

11. It simply attaches to the G-11 mini-pier (where the legs attach

on the G-11) and raises the head another 12". It's intended for long

telescopes like yours and it might give you enough additional

clearance so your Mak-Newt won't hit the tripod legs. If you're not

already familiar with it, you can find it here...

www.losmandy.com/access.html



If you're wanting a pier, some good ones are available through Astro

Physics (among others).

www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?titlepg

Remember: You'll need a pier adapter to fit the G-11 head to the

pier. Availability will be a factor.



I'm not too familiar with suppliers of rotating rings. I would have

recommended Parallax, but I see you've already looked into them.

Perhaps someone else on this group can share their knowledge about

other sources for rotating rings.



Happy hunting.



Best Regards,

Randy Johnson



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "ytso2" ytso2@y...> wrote:

> I acquired a MN71 Mak-Newt and used it on a G11 for the first time

last night. The

> views were great, but I ran into several problems that some of you

may be familiar

> with.

>

> The OTA bumped into the tripod legs when pointed near the zenith.

It seems that I'd

> need to replace the tripod with a short pier. Any recommendations?

>

> Also rotating the tube by loosening the ring clamps was a pain. Any

suggestion for

> rotating tube rings. I looked at Parallax web site, and their

rotating rings are

> expensive (over $400). Besides, my tube is 9" OD, and they have

only a 9.5".

>

> Thanks in advance,

> Yuen







----------------------------

#16366 Jul 29, 2003

Randy,

Thanks. I did not think of the pier extension. It will work though it will add

unwelcome height to the whole setup, and I will need to use a stool.

The AP pier looks reasonable. There must be someone who makes a G11 head

adapter.

Yuen



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Johnson" illuminetics@y...>

wrote: > Hi Yuen,

>

> You may consider getting a Losmandy EX-12 pier extension for your G-

> 11. It simply attaches to the G-11 mini-pier (where the legs attach

> on the G-11) and raises the head another 12". It's intended for long

> telescopes like yours and it might give you enough additional

> clearance so your Mak-Newt won't hit the tripod legs. If you're not

> already familiar with it, you can find it here...

> www.losmandy.com/access.html

>

> If you're wanting a pier, some good ones are available through Astro

> Physics (among others).

> www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?titlepg

> Remember: You'll need a pier adapter to fit the G-11 head to the

> pier. Availability will be a factor.

>

> I'm not too familiar with suppliers of rotating rings. I would have

> recommended Parallax, but I see you've already looked into them.

> Perhaps someone else on this group can share their knowledge about

> other sources for rotating rings.

>

> Happy hunting.

>

> Best Regards,

> Randy Johnson

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "ytso2" ytso2@y...> wrote:

> > I acquired a MN71 Mak-Newt and used it on a G11 for the first time

> last night. The

> > views were great, but I ran into several problems that some of you

> may be familiar

> > with.

> >

> > The OTA bumped into the tripod legs when pointed near the zenith.

> It seems that I'd

> > need to replace the tripod with a short pier. Any recommendations?

> >

> > Also rotating the tube by loosening the ring clamps was a pain. Any

> suggestion for

> > rotating tube rings. I looked at Parallax web site, and their

> rotating rings are

> > expensive (over $400). Besides, my tube is 9" OD, and they have

> only a 9.5".

> >

> > Thanks in advance,

> > Yuen



----------------------------

#16371 Jul 29, 2003

It may be out of your budget, but ATS makes a very stable pier-pod.



www.advancedtelescope.com/index.htm



I've use one on a Mountain Instruments MI-250 GOTO and it is very

stable.



To go really over-the-top on the budget there is the new Monolith. I've

not seen one in person.



www.pwtec.com/pwt/monolith.htm



stargazer.digitalcircus.org/monolith.jpg



Regards,

Robin

Astro Accessories from RobinCasady.com

www.robincasady.com/Astro



On Tuesday, July 29, 2003, at 12:14 PM, ytso2 wrote:



> Randy,

> Thanks. I did not think of the pier extension. It will work though it

> will add

> unwelcome height to the whole setup, and I will need to use a stool.

> The AP pier looks reasonable. There must be someone who makes a G11

> head

> adapter.

> Yuen

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Johnson"

> illuminetics@y...>

> wrote:

>> Hi Yuen,

>>

>> You may consider getting a Losmandy EX-12 pier extension for your G-

>> 11. It simply attaches to the G-11 mini-pier (where the legs attach

>> on the G-11) and raises the head another 12". It's intended for long

>> telescopes like yours and it might give you enough additional

>> clearance so your Mak-Newt won't hit the tripod legs. If you're not

>> already familiar with it, you can find it here...

>> www.losmandy.com/access.html

>>

>> If you're wanting a pier, some good ones are available through Astro

>> Physics (among others).

>> www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?titlepg

>> Remember: You'll need a pier adapter to fit the G-11 head to the

>> pier. Availability will be a factor.

>>

>> I'm not too familiar with suppliers of rotating rings. I would have

>> recommended Parallax, but I see you've already looked into them.

>> Perhaps someone else on this group can share their knowledge about

>> other sources for rotating rings.

>>

>> Happy hunting.

>>

>> Best Regards,

>> Randy Johnson

>>

>>

>> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "ytso2" ytso2@y...> wrote:

>>> I acquired a MN71 Mak-Newt and used it on a G11 for the first time

>> last night. The

>>> views were great, but I ran into several problems that some of you

>> may be familiar

>>> with.

>>>

>>> The OTA bumped into the tripod legs when pointed near the zenith.

>> It seems that I'd

>>> need to replace the tripod with a short pier. Any recommendations?

>>>

>>> Also rotating the tube by loosening the ring clamps was a pain. Any

>> suggestion for

>>> rotating tube rings. I looked at Parallax web site, and their

>> rotating rings are

>>> expensive (over $400). Besides, my tube is 9" OD, and they have

>> only a 9.5".

>>>

>>> Thanks in advance,

>>> Yuen

>

>

---------------

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> Printer at Myinks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &

> Canada. www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511

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>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

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>







----------------------------

#16567 Aug 13, 2003

I am going to be building my obsevatory soon and am thinking I

would like to mount my G-11 on a pier. Looking for input, feedback,

and ideas on this. What has been your experience with a pier vs.

tripod? I would like to hear any suggestions you might have in

regard to pier designs and installation, etc.. Right now I have a

9.25

Celestron on it. Hope to go to an 11 inch in the not to distant

future.



Thanks, Lonnie



----------------------------

#16575 Aug 13, 2003

I put my G-11 on a pier at my desert observatory (ARGO). It is clearly more

stable than a tripod. If you have a chance to put in a pier, do it. My local

welding shop had no problem creating the pier once I showed them how the

mount was supposed to fit. They even put on the ears for the Gemini control

panel. It is 6 feet long with a flat plate at the bottom and some rebar

sticking out about 1 foot from the base. The pier sits 2 feet deep in a

concrete base that weighs about 1200 pounds, so is plenty sturdy. The

welding company charged me $225 for the pier.



Tom Carrico

www.ccdargo.com ----- Original Message -----

From: "merlyn3248" merlyn3248@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 10:53 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier designs ?





> I am going to be building my obsevatory soon and am thinking I

> would like to mount my G-11 on a pier. Looking for input, feedback,

> and ideas on this. What has been your experience with a pier vs.

> tripod? I would like to hear any suggestions you might have in

> regard to pier designs and installation, etc.. Right now I have a

> 9.25

> Celestron on it. Hope to go to an 11 inch in the not to distant

> future.

>

> Thanks, Lonnie

>

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#17758 Nov 4, 2003

Hi

I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

pier is made of.

It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.

Regards

Bernd



----------------------------

#17759 Nov 4, 2003

Bernd wrote: >

> Hi

> I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

> pier is made of.

> It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

> I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

> onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

> Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.





Bernd,



I made my own pier of steel and had an aluminum pier cap made to adapt

from this to the Losmandy GM-100/G-11 Any competent machine shop should

be able to crank one out quick. Web address below contains some images

where you can see how I did it.





Regards



Bill





--

William R. Mattil.|

wrmattil@....| celestial-images.com

(972) 399-4106..|



----------------------------

#17760 Nov 4, 2003

Bernd,



You could always buy the adapter for the Meade Giant Field Tripod and weld

that to the top plate.



Forrest



-----Original Message-----

From: Bernd [mailto:n6rmc@...]

Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 10:22 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] G-11 mini pier pipe





Hi

I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

pier is made of.

It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.

Regards

Bernd



----------------------------

#17761 Nov 4, 2003

I just got done using a Meade Field Tripod Adapter on my pier

and it works great. BTW it is sold by Losmandy...not Meade.

It's about 4 inches high though...not 1 1/4 inches.



Last point, you won't be able to weld it on your pier if your pier is

steel. The adaptor is aluminum. It comes with a 1/2 inch hole in the

base. I just drilled a hole in the top plate of my pier and tapped it for

a 12 inch bolt. That gives me some azimuth adjustment if I need it.



Jim Jones

nt7t@...



At 10:55 PM 11/04/2003 -0500, you wrote: >Bernd,

>

> You could always buy the adapter for the Meade Giant Field Tripod and weld

>that to the top plate.

>

>Forrest

>

>-----Original Message-----

>From: Bernd [mailto:n6rmc@...]

>Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 10:22 PM

>To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>Subject: [Losmandy_users] G-11 mini pier pipe

>

>

>Hi

>I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

>pier is made of.

>It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

>I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

>onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

>Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.

>Regards

>Bernd

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#17762 Nov 4, 2003

Bernd,



The pipe size is 6" OD with a 1/4" wall thickness (5.5" ID). I picked up an 18" piece of the pipe at a local scrap yard that I will use to make an extension for use with my refractor when mounted on my G11.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "Bernd" n6rmc@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 22:21

Subject: [Losmandy_users] G-11 mini pier pipe





> Hi

> I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

> pier is made of.

> It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

> I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

> onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

> Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.

> Regards

> Bernd

>

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>



----------------------------

#17763 Nov 4, 2003

Thanks for the input guys! I appreciate it.

When I measured the pier pipe, it did not appear to be "standard"

size for 6" pipe. Maybe I give too much credit to pipe manufacturers

regarding their tolerances (grin).

I measured the OD of the G-11 head itself and came up with 5.534".

So, I guess a trip to the local metal shop is in store for me

tomorrow to see what they have whose ID is close to that.

The difference between the OD of the head base and the ID of the

pier pipe is .028. It would have been even less but it appears that

Losmandy machines away a little on the top part of the ID to provide

an easier fit.

Do you think that having 3 L shaped 1/4" thick angles heliarced to

the top plate and drilled to line up with the three bolt holes would

be as secure as an entire piece of pipe? Or does the integrity of

the complete circular pipe enhance the strength or stability?

Anyway, again, thanks for your assistance.

Regards

Bernd



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Bernd" n6rmc@y...> wrote:

> Hi

> I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11

mini

> pier is made of.

> It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

> I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

> onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

> Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.

> Regards

> Bernd



----------------------------

#17764 Nov 4, 2003

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Bernd" n6rmc@y...> wrote: > Hi

> I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

> pier is made of.

> It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.



When I made up my pier a couple years ago, I got 6" O.D. 1/4" wall

D.O.M. steel pipe (D.O.M. = drawn over mandrel, which yields a

truer 'round' pipe which is easier for machining purposes.) We

chucked it up on a friend's lathe and used the base of the equatorial

head as a template to turn it all down to fit. It wasn't an even 5.5"

I.D. as I recall, but it's been a few years (and I don't have the

mount anymore.)



Jim Girard



----------------------------

#17789 Nov 6, 2003

Very timely subject. I'm contemplating moving from an f/8 to f/15

refractor and need a longer pier extension to raise the G-11 higher.

I already use the extended G-11 legs but feel getting a taller pier

extension would be the best way to get the height I need.



Pat

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Don D'Egidio" djd521@c...> wrote:

> Bernd,

>

> The pipe size is 6" OD with a 1/4" wall thickness (5.5" ID). I

picked up an 18" piece of the pipe at a local scrap yard that I will

use to make an extension for use with my refractor when mounted on my G11.

>

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Bernd" n6rmc@y...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 22:21

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] G-11 mini pier pipe

>

>

> > Hi

> > I am looking for a 1 1/4" tall piece of the pipe that the G-11 mini

> > pier is made of.

> > It doesn't appear to be a standard size pipe.

> > I am modifying a pier for My G-11 and this piece will be heliarced

> > onto my top plate to secure the G-11.

> > Any help, comments or suggestions are welcome.

> > Regards

> > Bernd



> >



----------------------------

#17978 Nov 22, 2003

Sorry for the double post, but I'd like to kill 2 birds with one stone.



Background: next Spring, I want to build a bigger observatory. I want

to have 2 concrete piers. One for the 12" LX200 and one so I can

permanently install my G-11. I would like to be able to remove the head

and travel to star parties and such.



Here are my questions:



1. For LX200 users, does anyone have any feedback on this product:

www.pierplates.com



2. For G-11 users: those of you who may have mounted a g-11 in an

observatory, is there any guidance you can give as far mounting the

head on a concrete pier? I see plenty of products for assisting with

SCTs, but not for Losmandy mounts. As noted above, I would like to be

able to keep the mount and OTA setup in the observatory except 2 or 3

times a year when I would pull it off and use it on the tripod at star

parties.



Thanks,

Alan



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----------------------------

#17982 Nov 22, 2003

At 06:03 PM 11/22/2003 -0800, you wrote:



snip

>2. For G-11 users: those of you who may have mounted a g-11 in an

>observatory, is there any guidance you can give as far mounting the

>head on a concrete pier? I see plenty of products for assisting with

>SCTs, but not for Losmandy mounts. As noted above, I would like to be

>able to keep the mount and OTA setup in the observatory except 2 or 3

>times a year when I would pull it off and use it on the tripod at star

>parties.





I used the Meade field tripod adapter to mount my G-11 on my steel

pier. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work with a concrete pier.

It works fine for me.



It is available from Losmandy for $90 or maybe $10 cheaper from the

various retail outlets. See www.losmandy.com/access.html



Jim Jones

nt7t@...



----------------------------

#17990 Nov 23, 2003

Hey Jim,



--- Jim Jones nt7t@...> wrote: > I used the Meade field tripod adapter to mount my G-11 on my steel

> pier. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work with a concrete pier.

> It works fine for me.



That's a place for me to start. Now I'll need to figure how to mate the

tripod adapter to the concrete, or something similiar.



Thanks,

Alan







---------------

Do you Yahoo!?

Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now

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----------------------------

#17993 Nov 23, 2003

Well, if you haven't poured the pier yet, you can just imbed a 1/2"

bolt in the top to mate with the 1/2" hole in the bottom of the adapter.



If the pier is already poured, you can use a concrete drill to drill

a hole in the top of the pier (you can rent one for a few bucks)

and then use epoxy to imbed the 1/2" bolt in the top of the pier.

You can get epoxy that is intended to be used in concrete. I

once supported the base of a 35 foot antenna with a bolt epoxied

into the concrete sidewalk so it's plenty strong.



You can also get much more involved and bolt a 1/2" plate to the

top of the pier and use it to level the mount. I did that with my

steel pier and it worked like a charm.



Good luck.



Jim Jones

nt7t@...



At 01:40 PM 11/23/2003 -0800, you wrote: >Hey Jim,

>

>--- Jim Jones nt7t@...> wrote:

>> I used the Meade field tripod adapter to mount my G-11 on my steel

>> pier. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work with a concrete pier.

>> It works fine for me.

>

>That's a place for me to start. Now I'll need to figure how to mate the

>tripod adapter to the concrete, or something similiar.

>

>Thanks,

>Alan

>

>

>

---------------

>Do you Yahoo!?

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>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

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>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#18336 Dec 18, 2003

I would like to install a permanent pier with my GM8. What do you

recommend me to buy? Any particular brands? Where to buy it.



Thank you.



Juan Flores



----------------------------

#18337 Dec 18, 2003

Hi Juan,



I have a homemade pier. Look at this photos:



rainerehlert.com/astro/Base.jpg

rainerehlert.com/astro/Base-terminada.jpg

rainerehlert.com/astro/Observatorio05.jpg

rainerehlert.com/astro/Observatorio08.jpg

rainerehlert.com/astro/Observatorio09.jpg



The base is a hole 90cm x 60cm deep. The pier is a concret filled

25cm PVC pipe with iron armored inside about 140cm high. Around it I

made a base which does not touch the round base and on top of the

concrete platform I put a wooden platform. This is really not

necessary but I do not like the cold concrete under my feet.



The black part is a 4" x 6" pier which is sold by Losmandy.



MA Meade field tripod adapter

6.0" diameter, 4.0" high. Inside machined to fit G-11 and GM-8

mounts. Tube has 1/2" thick bottom with 1/2" hole in center, posts

for the electronics are mounted on the side. Also used on top of

permanent piers.





I made 2 round iron plates with each 3 holes for being able to

nivelate the hole takeup with 3 threaded bolts about 10cm long. The

lower plate is fixed on the pier and the upper is movable for

nivelating. Works great. I have a G11 but the MA is also suitable for

the GM8.



I think this is a cheaper solution. OK depends where you live.

Somewhere in Latin America?



saludos de M.xico Rainer



----------------------------

#18338 Dec 18, 2003

Hi Juan

I can build you one cheaper than you can buy a ready made one. Send me your requirements and I'll design one for you. The price is between 150.00 to 500.00 US, depending on your requirements.

I have built several observatories and accompanying mounts.

My mounts are made from schedule 40 steel and are rock solid. They are either concreted in or stand alone.

Ty Dave H. PVCC ----- Original Message -----

From: juanfloresjuanflores

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2003 3:59 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier for the gm8?????





I would like to install a permanent pier with my GM8. What do you

recommend me to buy? Any particular brands? Where to buy it.



Thank you.



Juan Flores









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----------------------------

#18340 Dec 18, 2003

Hey Dave,



--- David Hellmann david.hellmann@...> wrote: > My mounts are made from schedule 40 steel and are rock solid. They

> are either concreted in or stand alone.



I'll also be interested in something to mount my G-11 head with Gemini

on. I'll be starting a bigger observatory in the Spring and was

considering a concrete pier, but I'm willing to look into other

options. It needs to be an immoveable object as my prime goal is long

exposure AP. I also have a 12" LX200 I want permanently mounted.



I'm still looking around for the best way to handle this, there are so

many different people out there who have done it many different ways.



Alan



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----------------------------

#18341 Dec 18, 2003

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Alan Voetsch

critter12952@y...> wrote: > Hey Dave,

>

> --- David Hellmann david.hellmann@p...> wrote:

> > My mounts are made from schedule 40 steel and are rock solid. They

> > are either concreted in or stand alone.

>

> I'll also be interested in something to mount my G-11 head with

Gemini > on. I'll be starting a bigger observatory in the Spring and was

> considering a concrete pier, but I'm willing to look into other

> options. It needs to be an immoveable object as my prime goal is

long > exposure AP. I also have a 12" LX200 I want permanently mounted.

>

> I'm still looking around for the best way to handle this, there are

so > many different people out there who have done it many different

ways. >

> Alan

>

---------------

> Do you Yahoo!?

> New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.

> photos.yahoo.com/



Look in Astro Sky website,have many piers. resonable prices.



Clear Skies!

James



----------------------------

#18351 Dec 19, 2003

Hi James

My email is david.hellmann@.... You can call me also at 623-363-0493 or 602 787-6685 to discuss your needs and requirements.

Happy Holidays

Dave H. ----- Original Message -----

From: James Grigar

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2003 9:51 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Pier for the gm8?????





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Alan Voetsch

critter12952@y...> wrote:

> Hey Dave,

>

> --- David Hellmann david.hellmann@p...> wrote:

> > My mounts are made from schedule 40 steel and are rock solid. They

> > are either concreted in or stand alone.

>

> I'll also be interested in something to mount my G-11 head with

Gemini

> on. I'll be starting a bigger observatory in the Spring and was

> considering a concrete pier, but I'm willing to look into other

> options. It needs to be an immoveable object as my prime goal is

long

> exposure AP. I also have a 12" LX200 I want permanently mounted.

>

> I'm still looking around for the best way to handle this, there are

so

> many different people out there who have done it many different

ways.

>

> Alan

>

---------------

> Do you Yahoo!?

> New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.

> photos.yahoo.com/



Look in Astro Sky website,have many piers. resonable prices.



Clear Skies!

James







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Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com









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----------------------------

#18354 Dec 19, 2003

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "juanfloresjuanflores"

juanfloresjuanflores@y...> wrote: > I would like to install a permanent pier with my GM8. What do you

> recommend me to buy? Any particular brands? Where to buy it.

>

> Thank you.

>

> Juan Flores





Hi Juan,



Tried send you pic and information, email about Gm8 pier ,your email

not good won't go thru . hotmail.

have another email ?



Clear Skies!

Astro Sky



----------------------------

#18936 Jan 30, 2004

Hi,



If any members have used an Advanced telescopes' portable

pier with either the G-11 or the G-8, I'd be interested to hear

about their experiences.



In particular their stability compared to the Losmandy tripods,

and their ease of use.



For example is it feasible/possible/safe to have the pier + head

permanently assembled inside and take the whole setup

outside through a doorway by collapsing one leg?



I am planing on using a 34" long (shortest length), 22lb total

weight refractor (tec 140) - might the pier allow one to more

successfully use the G-8 rather than the G-11?



thanks, Robert







----------------------------

#18941 Feb 1 8:02 AM

Hi. Saw a post that reminded me--- I have an AstroPhysics Portable

Pier. I would like to get a Losmandy G-11 but would like to keep the

pier. How much adapting do I have to go through to do this?



----------------------------

#19024 Feb 9 7:33 AM

Well, I have finally finished my C14 and Losmandy G11/Gemini

modifications. I have attached a folder with photos in the photo

section. I am very pleased with the result. I do have to mention a

couple of things.



First, I recently upgraded my pier from the G11 tripod. I know that

the G11 is borderline for the C14 in my configuration. However, it

has worked very well for me. Although I love the G11, the one area

that I didn't really like was the tripod/mini-pier that it came

with. The center of gravity on the mini-pier seemed way to high for

the loads I was putting on the mount. As such, I decided to look

around at different piers. Of course I had many choices available

but I settled on the new Monolith from a company in California called

Particle Wave. All I can say is WOW! This thing is phenomenal to

say the least. Now, for those who don't know, I manufacture the GEM

Table for piers and have quite a bit of experience in the

manufacturing arena. I can say that this thing is one of the finest

pieces of astronomical equipment available on the market today. The

level of thought, detail, and engineering, far exceeds my

expectations. There are no welds, or seams, or basics. It is as

close to a perfect pier as I think you will find and it reeks of

quality. Don't get me wrong, the G11 tripod is very good for what it

is, or even smaller loads. However, this Monolith is like going from

a very good Honda Accord, to a Ferrari. Simply put, the solid

foundation of the Monolith makes the G11 work better. It lowers the

center of gravity, is ROCK solid, and dampens instantly. As such,

most, if not all of the unwanted vibrations from the old mount are

eliminated. The performance improvement was like getting a new mount

to boot. I am thrilled! There are a million features I could rave

about but figure you can check it out on the their site. If you

haven't checked into these, you ought to. Some may be swayed by the

price, as I was at first. However, I can unequivocally state from my

own machining experience, the price is right in line with the level

of workmanship and features that come with this pier. Short of my

scope, this is the single most satisfying piece of equipment I have

bought. As they say, you get what you pay for, and that is truly the

case with the Monolith.



Take a look at the photo's section. I have included some close ups

of the G11 on the pier. Notice the adapter plate has 4 bubbles

spaced at 90 degrees around the top. Between these four bubbles and

the two on the G11 head, you know you are level. Also, the adapter

plate is drilled to accept other mounts such as the Titan, AP's,

etc... if you decide to change. He also custom made me the Gemini

computer holder that I have a close up of. Of course I also have

some pictures of the tables that I make. I originally designed them

around the G11 tripod/mini-pier. However, I have sizes that fit just

about any permanent or portable pier.



I am very happy overall with how everything turned out. If anyone

has any questions about my setup, please feel free to email me.



Paul Atkinson



----------------------------

#19025 Feb 9 7:45 AM

Paul: The post had no photos attached.



Bob Schmall

----- Original Message -----

From: "paulatkinson22" paulatkinson22@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 9:33 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] C14 - G11/Gemini - Monolith Pier Combination





> Well, I have finally finished my C14 and Losmandy G11/Gemini

> modifications. I have attached a folder with photos in the photo

> section. I am very pleased with the result. I do have to mention a

> couple of things.

>

> First, I recently upgraded my pier from the G11 tripod. I know that

> the G11 is borderline for the C14 in my configuration. However, it

> has worked very well for me. Although I love the G11, the one area

> that I didn't really like was the tripod/mini-pier that it came

> with. The center of gravity on the mini-pier seemed way to high for

> the loads I was putting on the mount. As such, I decided to look

> around at different piers. Of course I had many choices available

> but I settled on the new Monolith from a company in California called

> Particle Wave. All I can say is WOW! This thing is phenomenal to

> say the least. Now, for those who don't know, I manufacture the GEM

> Table for piers and have quite a bit of experience in the

> manufacturing arena. I can say that this thing is one of the finest

> pieces of astronomical equipment available on the market today. The

> level of thought, detail, and engineering, far exceeds my

> expectations. There are no welds, or seams, or basics. It is as

> close to a perfect pier as I think you will find and it reeks of

> quality. Don't get me wrong, the G11 tripod is very good for what it

> is, or even smaller loads. However, this Monolith is like going from

> a very good Honda Accord, to a Ferrari. Simply put, the solid

> foundation of the Monolith makes the G11 work better. It lowers the

> center of gravity, is ROCK solid, and dampens instantly. As such,

> most, if not all of the unwanted vibrations from the old mount are

> eliminated. The performance improvement was like getting a new mount

> to boot. I am thrilled! There are a million features I could rave

> about but figure you can check it out on the their site. If you

> haven't checked into these, you ought to. Some may be swayed by the

> price, as I was at first. However, I can unequivocally state from my

> own machining experience, the price is right in line with the level

> of workmanship and features that come with this pier. Short of my

> scope, this is the single most satisfying piece of equipment I have

> bought. As they say, you get what you pay for, and that is truly the

> case with the Monolith.

>

> Take a look at the photo's section. I have included some close ups

> of the G11 on the pier. Notice the adapter plate has 4 bubbles

> spaced at 90 degrees around the top. Between these four bubbles and

> the two on the G11 head, you know you are level. Also, the adapter

> plate is drilled to accept other mounts such as the Titan, AP's,

> etc... if you decide to change. He also custom made me the Gemini

> computer holder that I have a close up of. Of course I also have

> some pictures of the tables that I make. I originally designed them

> around the G11 tripod/mini-pier. However, I have sizes that fit just

> about any permanent or portable pier.

>

> I am very happy overall with how everything turned out. If anyone

> has any questions about my setup, please feel free to email me.

>

> Paul Atkinson

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#19026 Feb 9 7:45 AM

Hi Paul. Nice setup. I see that you have the new pier mounted on wheelie

bars. Are the pier legs adjustable in case you didn't have a nice flat

driveway to put it on or wheelie bars? Who painted your scope? It looks

awesome.

Ralph



----------------------------

#19027 Feb 9 7:59 AM

Ralph,



Yes, the legs are very easily adjustable. Actually my driveway isn't flat

but sits on an incline. The Monolith uses a neat leveler. For lack of a

detailed description, it is like the casters under your stove or refrigarator but

nicer. You spin them to raise the feet up and down. Really nifty. Also, I

think the guy at Particle Wave makes his own wheely bars that are better. I just

happened to have mine so I used them.



The scope color is called wildfire and is a translucent metallic red. It

took the shop 3 tries to get it just right.



Paul Atkinson





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#19028 Feb 9 8:02 AM

Bob,



Go to the photo section under Atkinson.



Paul





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#19052 Feb 10 12:00 PM

On the C14 group, y'all might want to check out Paul Atkinson's

stunnign rehab of his C14 and the incredible load he has on his G11.

He has put the G11 on a "Mammoth" pier (that's a brand) and says it

makes a huge difference in damping time and stability. It's in the

photo section. His review is in the messages section.



I find it difficult to believe (I think the G11 tripod is pretty durn

good) that changing to a pier could make THAT much difference but

then I have no basis on which to form the opinion. Paul is very

methodical and is doing some stunning work, so you can decide for

yourselves.



regards

Greg n



----------------------------

#19053 Feb 10 3:43 PM

Hi Greg,



Paul's C-14 is indeed most impressive. It is probably one of the

best looking telescopes I have seen (only seen photos

unfortunately). However, his pier is actually a Monolith portable

pier. We shipped it to him about two weeks ago.



His claim of Monolith making a big difference in load carrying and

dampening time is not an exaggeration. In our testing, depending on

the mount, the dampening time was reduced by %50 to 75% and

practical load carrying capacity increased 10 or 20%. There is a

nice write up on Cloudy Nights where the author also indicates

increase load carrying and reduced vibration. Monolith is able to

do this because it is a fully engineered and optimized design. It

is in fact the most advanced portable pier designed. But Monolith

is actually more than engineering alone. It is fully machined from

aluminum and stainless steel. Machining is superb and the

tolerances very tight. We also pay particular attention to detail.



Of course I have a vested interest, after all we make the Monolith

Support System, but don't take my word for it, check our website and

read what people are saying about Monolith, and if you are in San

Francisco Bay Area, stop buy and check one out for yourself. You

really have to see it to believe it.



Best wishes,



Shahin Zarehparvar

Particle Wave Technologies

www.pwtec.com







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@h...>

wrote: > On the C14 group, y'all might want to check out Paul Atkinson's

> stunnign rehab of his C14 and the incredible load he has on his

G11. > He has put the G11 on a "Mammoth" pier (that's a brand) and says

it > makes a huge difference in damping time and stability. It's in

the > photo section. His review is in the messages section.

>

> I find it difficult to believe (I think the G11 tripod is pretty

durn > good) that changing to a pier could make THAT much difference but

> then I have no basis on which to form the opinion. Paul is very

> methodical and is doing some stunning work, so you can decide for

> yourselves.

>

> regards

> Greg n



----------------------------

#19075 Feb 11 4:32 PM

I plan to build a permanent pier,( through my deck that is 3' above

ground), for my G11. I am looking for someone who can supply the top

portion of the pier. The part that the G11 head would affix to. I can

do the concrete part but need that part and directions as to how to

finish the concrete part to attach the pier 'head' to. Anybody got

any tips and/or sources?



Thanks,

Bob



----------------------------

#19076 Feb 11 4:39 PM

Bob,



How about the Losmandy adapter for attachment to a Giant Field Tripod? I

believe it has been suggested a number of times in the past.



Forrest



-----Original Message-----

From: Robert Stephan [mailto:bob@...]

Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:32 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier manufacturer recomendations please





I plan to build a permanent pier,( through my deck that is 3' above

ground), for my G11. I am looking for someone who can supply the top

portion of the pier. The part that the G11 head would affix to. I can

do the concrete part but need that part and directions as to how to

finish the concrete part to attach the pier 'head' to. Anybody got

any tips and/or sources?



Thanks,

Bob







----------------------------

#19077 Feb 11 4:56 PM

Hi Bob,



Losmandy sells the MA Meade Field tripod adapter for about US $ 90,00

which I used. Here is a photo



www.ranchosietebohios.org/astro/G11-setup.jpg



My Pier is a 10" PVC pipe filled with concrete. After that I drilled

3 holes and fixed the lower plate with special screws. As you see I

used 3 threaded bolts for the upper plate for levelling and on the

top plate I put the MA.



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19082 Feb 11 7:02 PM

Bob,

There are numerous ways to achieve your goal. I have heard of people using wood and various metals as a platform for a mount. My personal preference is good old steel. Several years ago now, I guess, I designed myself a pier for my G11. I only had to go 1 foot with the concrete above ground but the principle is the same. I poured my concrete "footing" about 4 feet down and 18" in diameter for a total of 1000 lbs. of crete. I don't know what you know but you have to set some j-bolts (I used 3) into the concrete while it is wet. I just tool some 18" long 1/2-13 all thread I purchased at Lowe's and heated it up about 4" from one end of each piece and beat it over to 90 degrees with a ball peen hammer.



Setting these puppies so that they are on your desired bolt circle and perpendicular to the ground takes a little ingenuity but is not too overwhelming. However, you don't want them to end up crooked or out of position or you will have to have a special base to your pier to accomodate. Basically, I built a jig out of some scrap lumber I had around. I cut out two pieces of 3/4" plywood that were 16" squared. I made a center mark near the middle of each piece and sketched a bolt circle on those centers. I then placed three lines from the center of these circles spaced 120 degrees apart. Where these lines crossed the circle is where you want to drill holes in each piece. I got a drill bit that was as close to the same size as the major diameter of my j-bolts as possible and drilled the holes. You decide how much j-bolt you want exposed and you basically run nuts down to that mark on each bolt then you place one piece of wood on the bolts next then you put down 2-3 more nuts on each bolt (this will clamp the first piece of wood in place and provide space between it and the second board). Then the next board is placed and that is followed up with another round of nuts. The reason for the space between boards is to help make sure that the bolts stay square. This whole assembly is set in the wet concrete gently so that the bottom board rests flush on the concrete, which has found its own level. This ensures j-bolts that are perpendicular and parallel to each other.



Now the pier, if made out of steel, will require that you have access to, if I remember correctly, 6" schedule 80 pipe as a minimum. Using this will require a machined adapter at the top that will interface with the G11 (my adapter was made out of aluminum). By going the adapter route, if I ever change mounts, I just have to machine a new adapter. If you have access to 6" schedule 120, then you can machine the inside top of the pipe so that the G11 will rest directy inside without an adapter. I don't want to drag this out here so I will cut this short. I used to have some prints of this and I may still have them. However, I am in northern Indiana and my computer with these files is still in Tennessee. Fortunately, I am going back down there this weekend and I will see if I can find that stuff if your interested. Even if I cant find it, I could re-create it if you can wait. I would draw up the basic design and you would have to modify it to suit your needs (pier length). As I recall, Jimmy Thibert used my basic pier design in his observatory and he seemed to be happy with it. If you can't do the pier fabrication work yourself, a local welder/fabricator should be able to with no problem. I machined my own adapter but had the pier made for $75 plus $50 for shipping (HEAVY).



The end result for me was a pier that was 3 feet long and weighed in at 130 lbs. I painted it (6-8 coats) inside and out. The inside I painted by using a cotton mop that I had trimmed the head strings down to about 6 inches. I just poured the paint down the pipe then went after it with the mop to spread it around. It has been outside for 4 years continuous and there is no rust. I filled it with sand to prevent a tuning fork effect and it has worked flawlessly. I could set my polar alignment and it wouldn't move month after month. I confess that I became spoiled. Since I have been in Indiana, I have only observed once in the past year because it seemed like such a pain to haul everything out, set up, polar align (rough), observe for 6 hours, tear down, and put everything back up. Don't you just feel sorry for me!



As soon as I can get into a house here, I am building another observatory! Until then, I can remenisce. Let me know if you are interested in pursuing this. Otherwise, good luck. There are a lot of resources out here to keep you on the straight and narrow!



Regards,

Andy McDavid



----------------------------

#19108 Feb 13 8:43 AM

I plan to build a permanent pier on, or actually through, my deck. Question is

how much room minimum will I need to have between the pier and the deck

railings. Basically walking and observing room needed for adequate comfort.

The mount will hold the G11 with a TAK FSQ-106 along with a camera on the

business end of the OTA. I'll probably need to put a tray on the pier also for

the laptop and accessories.



Has anyone done this and can share your tips?



Thanks in advance,

Bob







----------------------------

#19111 Feb 13 1:24 PM

Hi Bob,



Maybe this photo helps



tanchipa.ranchosietebohios.org/TanObser01.jpg

tanchipa.ranchosietebohios.org/TanObser02.jpg



The pier has a concrete base in 3 feet diameter and 2feet deep. It is

a 5feet high and 10" PVC pipe. Total weight about 1000kg ~

2200pounds. Around that another concrete base which does not touch

the pier for putting on the wooden plattform.



Here is the way I fixed my G11 on the PVC pipe



www.ranchosietebohios.org/astro/G11-setup.jpg



The diameter of the octagon has about 3meter ~ 9.9feet. The little

building at the left is the control center. There I put my laptop,

etc. and so I can freely walk around the telescope.



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19992 Apr 12, 2004

Hi. I am torn between purchasing the Titan mount. I am told about 6

month wait direct from Losmandy. I cannot afford the $1,000.00

tripod. Is their a least expensive route such as pouring a concrete

pier? If so then what? Pouring the concrete does not seem to be a

major deal/expense...but how do you attach the mount? Are their

adapters out their already made for this mount? If so how does the

adpter attach to the concrete...I assume you have to set threaded

screws in the top of the concrete pier to bolt some sort of plate to

it. Could I get a metal tube from a scrap yard that may work instaed

of concrete? Would it be more affordable to have someone ...like

maybe the local vo-tech school or even a machine shop make an adapter

or tube or both as opposed to ordering a prefab adapter. The big

question is how much cheaper would a do it yourself pier be as

opposed to the extra $1000.00 Losmandy tripod at the time of

purchase? I have no problem setting this up at one spot in the

yard...but the mount must come off at night to be brought indoors.

Thanks, Wayne



----------------------------

#19997 Apr 12, 2004

I am told there is an Astrophysics tripod for $500 but I have never

investigated.



For a pier you can A) Make the pier head similar to a Losmandy mount

or B) get or make an adapter to do the same thing. You can try

talking to different folks. I think Mountain Instruments is also

into piers. All you really need is some bolt holes (judging from the

G11). The older G11s just had stright holes, no drop-and-turn slots

like they do now. So if you hve the right diameter pier you should

be OK.



If you have a "Metals Supermarket" (name of a chain) in your area you

should be able to get a piece of steel pipe that meets the needs, and

they'll even drill the holes for you, for a charge. I'm not sure if

an aluminum pier would give you the stability you need, but it is an

option too.



Some piers have very fancy designing that has gone into them (like

the Monolith) and on that score, you have to investigate and decide.

The main cost issue though is if you're trying to get a PORTABLE pier.



Parks Optical also makes piers for large scopes, their own, but

they'll sell you that stuff independently. You have to go through

their dealer in San Franciso. I think they're called Scope City.



regards

Greg N





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne Cooper" coopersx@c...>

wrote: > Hi. I am torn between purchasing the Titan mount. I am told about 6

> month wait direct from Losmandy. I cannot afford the $1,000.00

> tripod. Is their a least expensive route such as pouring a concrete

> pier? If so then what? Pouring the concrete does not seem to be a

> major deal/expense...but how do you attach the mount? Are their

> adapters out their already made for this mount? If so how does the

> adpter attach to the concrete...I assume you have to set threaded

> screws in the top of the concrete pier to bolt some sort of plate

to > it. Could I get a metal tube from a scrap yard that may work

instaed > of concrete? Would it be more affordable to have someone ...like

> maybe the local vo-tech school or even a machine shop make an

adapter > or tube or both as opposed to ordering a prefab adapter. The big

> question is how much cheaper would a do it yourself pier be as

> opposed to the extra $1000.00 Losmandy tripod at the time of

> purchase? I have no problem setting this up at one spot in the

> yard...but the mount must come off at night to be brought indoors.

> Thanks, Wayne



----------------------------

#20015 Apr 13, 2004

Wayne,

You might want to sign up on the Observatories@yahoo group. Check

through their archives and you will probably glean information that may

help you in your decision.



Bryan



Wayne Cooper wrote:

>Hi. I am torn between purchasing the Titan mount. I am told about 6

>month wait direct from Losmandy. I cannot afford the $1,000.00

>tripod. Is their a least expensive route such as pouring a concrete

>pier? If so then what? Pouring the concrete does not seem to be a

>major deal/expense...but how do you attach the mount? Are their

>adapters out their already made for this mount? If so how does the

>adpter attach to the concrete...I assume you have to set threaded

>screws in the top of the concrete pier to bolt some sort of plate to

>it. Could I get a metal tube from a scrap yard that may work instaed

>of concrete? Would it be more affordable to have someone ...like

>maybe the local vo-tech school or even a machine shop make an adapter

>or tube or both as opposed to ordering a prefab adapter. The big

>question is how much cheaper would a do it yourself pier be as

>opposed to the extra $1000.00 Losmandy tripod at the time of

>purchase? I have no problem setting this up at one spot in the

>yard...but the mount must come off at night to be brought indoors.

>Thanks, Wayne

>

>

>

>

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#20244 Apr 25, 2004

Hi,

Can anyone please tell me the inside diameter of the head of the Losmandy HGM or Titan pier / tripod.

It is in the 6 - 6.5" vicinity.

Thanks,

Brian Coote





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#20255 Apr 25, 2004

Hey all,



I am soon to break ground for the new observatory by jack-hammering out

the dirt and rocks for the piers. I have a general idea how the LX200

will attach to it's pier. No idea how the G-11 will. So, I'm open to

your suggestions. I've heard of the Losmandy MA adapter, but have no

idea how that will mate to the pier. Attaching the G-11 to that will be

no problem, but how would I attach the MA to the concrete and be able

to refine the alignment when needed?



Thanks,

Alan









---------------

Do you Yahoo!?

Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25.

photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash



----------------------------

#20256 Apr 25, 2004

Hi Allan,



Take a look at my new observatory building. I have a G11 and had the

same problem.



rsfotografia.com/pozos

www.rsfotografia.com/pozos/pages/O-Obs13.html

www.rsfotografia.com/pozos/pages/O-Obs27.html



here you see how the 3 threaded bolts are pushing against the top

concrete. This is not good.



By the way I changed my fixing a little bit. I put another round

plate under the lowest one you can see on the photos.



The three threaded bolts have all one nut in the concrete and then

comes an additional plate held by 3 other nuts and so there is no

pulling pressure of something onto the top part of the concrete. Then

come my other lower plate for holding the three threaded bolts and on

these three threaded bolts sits another round plate which carry the

MA Meade Field tripod adapter for the G11.



The top plate can be levelled then. Understood ? :-))



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#20257 Apr 25, 2004

I would suggest the Losmandy MA adapter for the Meade field tripod.

It is solidly built and has a 1/2-inch hole in the center (you could

add more if needed) It sells for $90 new and is just what the doctor

ordered!!



Take a look at: losmandy.com/access.html



Dennis





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Alan Voetsch

alanv12952@y...> wrote: > Hey all,

>

> I am soon to break ground for the new observatory by jack-

hammering out > the dirt and rocks for the piers. I have a general idea how the

LX200 > will attach to it's pier. No idea how the G-11 will. So, I'm open

to > your suggestions. I've heard of the Losmandy MA adapter, but have

no > idea how that will mate to the pier. Attaching the G-11 to that

will be > no problem, but how would I attach the MA to the concrete and be

able > to refine the alignment when needed?

>

> Thanks,

> Alan

>

>

> .

> ..

---------------

> Do you Yahoo!?

> Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25.

> photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash



----------------------------

#20259 Apr 25, 2004

Hey Dennis,



I'm going to put up a wanted ad on astromatr for the MA adapter. I

still need some ideas on how to adjust and maintain exact alignment

after that though. Rainier, I'm looking at your photos but am wondering

if there is a way to avaid using 3 plates.



Thanks,

Alan



--- Dennis Steele dsteele@...> wrote: > I would suggest the Losmandy MA adapter for the Meade field tripod.

> It is solidly built and has a 1/2-inch hole in the center (you could

> add more if needed) It sells for $90 new and is just what the doctor

> ordered!!

>

> Take a look at: losmandy.com/access.html













---------------

Do you Yahoo!?

Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25.

photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash



----------------------------

#20262 Apr 25, 2004

Hi Alan,



Well it all depends how good you want to set up the G11.



You can take a 1/2" threaded Bolt, put it centered into the concrete

and then with a nut fasten the MA adapter onto the top of the

concrete surface, but I doubt that you will be able to get such a

perfect levelled surface that you do not need to level out the Head.



I would say 2 plates are the minimum. The third plate was to avoid

the braking of the concrete due to the fact that the two upper plates

were former used on a 10" PVC tube filled concrete pier.



Rainer



----------------------------

#20263 Apr 25, 2004

Other than the Losmandy MA adapter, you'd need to have a piece of

metal (a mounting plate) fabricated for you with 4 holes for bolts

to come out of the concrete (for up/down adjustment) and a centre

hole for the MA adapter.



The MA adapter bolts to the mounting plate, which sits atop 4 bolts

that are sunk into the concrete.



Todd



----------------------------

#20264 Apr 25, 2004

Rainer-



Nice construction work, Rainer. The pier and observatory look great!



Are you the man with the gray hair and beard in the blue jeans or are you

the one with brown hair in shorts and glasses?



Jim Benet







----------------------------

#20266 Apr 25, 2004

Hi Jim,



I am the one in jeans. Thanks.



Rainer





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jimbenet" jimbenet@p...>

wrote: > Rainer-

>

> Nice construction work, Rainer. The pier and observatory look

great! >

> Are you the man with the gray hair and beard in the blue jeans or

are you > the one with brown hair in shorts and glasses?

>

> Jim Benet



----------------------------

#21536 Jul 8, 2004

I am contemplating purchasing a G11. If you experienced folks can

help me with some details, it would be appreciated.



1) I have an Astro Pier using a Meade superwedge footprint. Is

there a simple conversion plate to convert this for the G11? or do I

need to get a new top plate from the Astro pier folks?



2) What is the hardware required (recomended) to attached my a) 10"

SCT? and my b) Tak FSQ106? to the G11 (Separate configurations -

both employing - telerad, guidescope, finder...



3) Do I need the relay box for my SBIG 8XE with the newer Gemini

electronics or is this a thing of the past?



Appreciate any input.

Paul



----------------------------

#21545 Jul 9, 2004

On Fri, 9 Jul 2004, dougla60 wrote:

>

>

> I am contemplating purchasing a G11. If you experienced folks can

> help me with some details, it would be appreciated.

>

> 1) I have an Astro Pier using a Meade superwedge footprint. Is

> there a simple conversion plate to convert this for the G11? or do I

> need to get a new top plate from the Astro pier folks?



IIRC, Losmandy sells an adapter from the meade tripod to the G11 head.

It't a cylindrical thing, like a piece off the top of the Losmandy tripod.

>

> 2) What is the hardware required (recomended) to attached my a) 10"

> SCT? and my b) Tak FSQ106? to the G11 (Separate configurations -

> both employing - telerad, guidescope, finder...



For the SCT you need a dovetail plate and some curved blocks (available as

a kit from Losmandy). You may also need more weight (i use the 21lbs

weight plut 15 lbs more to balance a 12'' meade tube) For the Tak,

assuming you have the tube ring, you only need a DUP universal plate from

Losmandy.

> 3) Do I need the relay box for my SBIG 8XE with the newer Gemini

> electronics or is this a thing of the past?



Apparently not (should work directly), but i don't speak from experience

on this one.



Radu

>

> Appreciate any input.

> Paul

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>



--



-------------

Radu Corlan Snail Mail: Bucuresti sect. 1,

rcorlan@... str. Argentina nr. 28, Romania



You can still escape the "Gates" of Hell!

Use Linux!



----------------------------

#21939 Aug 13, 2004

For those of you who may be using your mount for a Newtonian, I have a

16" mini-pier for sale that is compatible with the G11/GM8 EQ head.

See Astromart.com ad # 290807 or contact me directly at

densteele(at)gmail(dot)com



Thanks, Dennis



----------------------------

#22034 Aug 20, 2004

I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my backyard

where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork mount

are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken back

inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the G11

to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.



I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the G11 (or

G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in the

deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in after

every observing session?



If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover provide

enough protection?



I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11, it

would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar aligned

would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off each

night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

alignment each night?



Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture into

a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid I

would certainly want to care for it properly.



Thanks for your help,



Claude



----------------------------

#22041 Aug 21, 2004

Claude,



I've had my mount in a dome without temperature/humidity control this

Summer...in Florida. No ill effects noticed...in fact, it just survived

Hurricane Charley.



Every time we get rain some moisture collects on the floor of the dome, so

I have the scope/mount covered with an inexpensive tarp from Home Depot to

prevent it from having water fall directly on it and getting inside

something. I just draped it over the scope/mount to cover the OTA and

electronics...it is not gathered and tied at the bottom, allowing it to

breath. I typically take my refractor with me, so I can use it between

visits to the dome, but have left my SCT on the mount...after Charley, I've

now decided it would make more sense to take the SCT off the mount and put

it back in its case...more setup time to use my scope, but much safer during

hurricane season.



If you have an observatory, you'll be fine leaving everything set up.



If you don't, I would take the electronics off, taking them inside with

you, and cover the mount with a Desert Storm cover (you might have to

replace the cover annually, give-or-take, depending on how severe the

weather is in your area...still a lot cheaper than erecting an observatory).



If your pier is well constructed, polar alignment should hold between

sessions.



Forrest Egan

fegan@...

www.digitalastro.com





-----Original Message-----

From: cetialpha4 [mailto:cetialpha4@...]

Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 12:41 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] G11 Permanent Pier Mounting





I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my backyard

where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork mount

are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken back

inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the G11

to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.



I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the G11 (or

G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in the

deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in after

every observing session?



If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover provide

enough protection?



I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11, it

would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar aligned

would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off each

night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

alignment each night?



Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture into

a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid I

would certainly want to care for it properly.



Thanks for your help,



Claude







----------------------------

#22044 Aug 21, 2004

Claude,



I have my G11/Gemini setup outside on a permanent pier. It's been on

it for the last three years, covered by an equivalent of a desert

storm cover. I do take the electronics inside most of the time,

unless I expect the weather to cooperate for a few nights in a row

(can't remember the last time this has happened ;-(



I'm located in the North East US and the weather here is extremely

humid in the summer, and pretty cold (as low as 0F) in the winter.



I've seen no ill effects on the mount. It is made of non-corrosive

materials, and appears to resist moisture well. Insects are another

matter, though :)



I do regrease the mount about once a year, and grease all threads,

screws, etc. that are exposed.



Regards,



-Paul



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cetialpha4" cetialpha4@y...>

wrote: > I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my backyard

> where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork

mount > are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken back

> inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the G11

> to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.

>

> I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the G11

(or > G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in the

> deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

> outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in after

> every observing session?

>

> If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

> observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover provide

> enough protection?

>

> I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11, it

> would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar

aligned > would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off

each > night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

> alignment each night?

>

> Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture

into > a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid I

> would certainly want to care for it properly.

>

> Thanks for your help,

>

> Claude



----------------------------

#22045 Aug 21, 2004

Paul,



I'm guessing you take the optics in though, right? How does your alignment and pointing do--or do you re-build your model each time?



Take care,

Bob ----- Original Message -----

From: Paul K

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:41 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 Permanent Pier Mounting





Claude,



I have my G11/Gemini setup outside on a permanent pier. It's been on

it for the last three years, covered by an equivalent of a desert

storm cover. I do take the electronics inside most of the time,

unless I expect the weather to cooperate for a few nights in a row

(can't remember the last time this has happened ;-(



I'm located in the North East US and the weather here is extremely

humid in the summer, and pretty cold (as low as 0F) in the winter.



I've seen no ill effects on the mount. It is made of non-corrosive

materials, and appears to resist moisture well. Insects are another

matter, though :)



I do regrease the mount about once a year, and grease all threads,

screws, etc. that are exposed.



Regards,



-Paul



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cetialpha4" cetialpha4@y...>

wrote:

> I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my backyard

> where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork

mount

> are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken back

> inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the G11

> to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.

>

> I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the G11

(or

> G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in the

> deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

> outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in after

> every observing session?

>

> If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

> observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover provide

> enough protection?

>

> I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11, it

> would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar

aligned

> would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off

each

> night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

> alignment each night?

>

> Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture

into

> a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid I

> would certainly want to care for it properly.

>

> Thanks for your help,

>

> Claude











Yahoo! Groups Links













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#22048 Aug 21, 2004

Claude,



I have been using a G11 on a permanent pier for about a year now. I'm

located in Maine and we too have our share of humid weather. My G11

is housed in a roll-off roof observatory for protection, which also

allows the scope to be left in place.



Except for the occasional spider web the G11 shows no signs of wear or

weathering from the humidity or winter cold. It's operation has been

flawless even at 20 below zero in january.



I would expect that a weather-tight cover would work well to protect

your mount. And especially to allow you to keep your pointing model

and park position intact from session to session.



These two Gemini features work remarkably well in a permanent setup

with a good polar alignment and a dozen or more objects in the

pointing model. I am able to simply power on the mount after days of

inactivity and slew to any object without even doing a one star

alignment. This also makes finding planets during the day a snap.



Having the G11 permanently set up makes my startup time about 4

minutes: open roof, power up equipment, insert eyepiece or camera,

remove lens cover and begin.



If you're into imaging, you already know how particular you have to be

with setup and alignment, and how long it takes each night to get it

there. Keeping the G11 in place lets you spend *way* less time

setting up and way more time enjoying the sky.



If you can manage to find a way to keep your G11 in place permanently,

I highly recommend it!



Regards,

Wayne Krauth



ps. Here is a picture of my 6" AP and Pronto on the G11

www.maineskies.org/in-operation.jpg





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cetialpha4" cetialpha4@y...>

wrote: > I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my backyard

> where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork mount

> are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken back

> inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the G11

> to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.

>

> I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the G11 (or

> G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in the

> deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

> outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in after

> every observing session?

>

> If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

> observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover provide

> enough protection?

>

> I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11, it

> would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar aligned

> would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off each

> night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

> alignment each night?

>

> Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture into

> a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid I

> would certainly want to care for it properly.

>

> Thanks for your help,

>

> Claude



----------------------------

#22054 Aug 21, 2004

Hi Bob,



Yes, I take the optics inside every time. I rebuild the model about

once very 2-3 months, which is also when I redo the polar alignment.

It seems to work well for the times in between.



Regards,



-Paul





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Benamati"

bobbenamati@c...> wrote: > Paul,

>

> I'm guessing you take the optics in though, right? How does your

alignment and pointing do--or do you re-build your model each time? >

> Take care,

> Bob

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Paul K

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:41 AM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 Permanent Pier Mounting

>

>

> Claude,

>

> I have my G11/Gemini setup outside on a permanent pier. It's been

on > it for the last three years, covered by an equivalent of a desert

> storm cover. I do take the electronics inside most of the time,

> unless I expect the weather to cooperate for a few nights in a

row > (can't remember the last time this has happened ;-(

>

> I'm located in the North East US and the weather here is

extremely > humid in the summer, and pretty cold (as low as 0F) in the winter.

>

> I've seen no ill effects on the mount. It is made of non-

corrosive > materials, and appears to resist moisture well. Insects are

another > matter, though :)

>

> I do regrease the mount about once a year, and grease all

threads, > screws, etc. that are exposed.

>

> Regards,

>

> -Paul

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cetialpha4"

cetialpha4@y...> > wrote:

> > I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my

backyard > > where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork

> mount

> > are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken

back > > inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the

G11 > > to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.

> >

> > I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the

G11 > (or

> > G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in

the > > deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

> > outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in

after > > every observing session?

> >

> > If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

> > observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover

provide > > enough protection?

> >

> > I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11,

it > > would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar

> aligned

> > would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off

> each

> > night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

> > alignment each night?

> >

> > Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture

> into

> > a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid

I > > would certainly want to care for it properly.

> >

> > Thanks for your help,

> >

> > Claude

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#22056 Aug 21, 2004

Interesting! I'm planning on building a shed observatory once my pier comes in, and would feel much better if I'd take the FSQ or C11 in the house rather than to risk it in the weather..... You may have convinced me that I'd be better off doing just that!



Thanks,

Bob ----- Original Message -----

From: Paul K

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 8:25 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 Permanent Pier Mounting





Hi Bob,



Yes, I take the optics inside every time. I rebuild the model about

once very 2-3 months, which is also when I redo the polar alignment.

It seems to work well for the times in between.



Regards,



-Paul





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Benamati"

bobbenamati@c...> wrote:

> Paul,

>

> I'm guessing you take the optics in though, right? How does your

alignment and pointing do--or do you re-build your model each time?

>

> Take care,

> Bob

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Paul K

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:41 AM

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 Permanent Pier Mounting

>

>

> Claude,

>

> I have my G11/Gemini setup outside on a permanent pier. It's been

on

> it for the last three years, covered by an equivalent of a desert

> storm cover. I do take the electronics inside most of the time,

> unless I expect the weather to cooperate for a few nights in a

row

> (can't remember the last time this has happened ;-(

>

> I'm located in the North East US and the weather here is

extremely

> humid in the summer, and pretty cold (as low as 0F) in the winter.

>

> I've seen no ill effects on the mount. It is made of non-

corrosive

> materials, and appears to resist moisture well. Insects are

another

> matter, though :)

>

> I do regrease the mount about once a year, and grease all

threads,

> screws, etc. that are exposed.

>

> Regards,

>

> -Paul

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cetialpha4"

cetialpha4@y...>

> wrote:

> > I currently have a permanent pier setup on the deck in my

backyard

> > where I use my Meade 2120 for observing. The telescope and fork

> mount

> > are brought outside each night that I observe, and then taken

back

> > inside after each session. I am considering the purchase of the

G11

> > to be able to better pursue digital astrophotography.

> >

> > I was wondering what the experience of the group is with the

G11

> (or

> > G8) mount as far as permanent pier installations, especially in

the

> > deep, humid south where I live. Is it safe to leave G11 mount

> > outdoors, suitably protected, or do most users bring it in

after

> > every observing session?

> >

> > If left outside, is suitable protecton considered a closed roof

> > observatory, or will something such as a desert storm cover

provide

> > enough protection?

> >

> > I guess I ask because with a precision mount such as the G11,

it

> > would seem that leaving it setup after it was properly polar

> aligned

> > would be preferable to putting it on the pier and taking it off

> each

> > night. Or is it possible to do this and maintain a good polar

> > alignment each night?

> >

> > Forgive me for my ignorance, but this would be my first venture

> into

> > a truly electronically controlled scope, and for the money paid

I

> > would certainly want to care for it properly.

> >

> > Thanks for your help,

> >

> > Claude

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











Yahoo! Groups Links













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#22624 Oct 3, 2004

Does Losmandy have some attachment I can put on the top of a pier that the

GM-8 head will fit into?







Ed Fitzgerald



fitzgerald@...















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#22628 Oct 3, 2004

Look at the Losmandy part "MA". It is the tripod adapter. You'll still

need an "under flange" that it mounts onto and that is adjustable so

as to level it.....



Dennis





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Fitzgerald" fitzgerald@m...>

wrote: > Does Losmandy have some attachment I can put on the top of a pier

that the > GM-8 head will fit into?

>

>

>

> Ed Fitzgerald

>

> fitzgerald@m...

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#22636 Oct 4, 2004

Hi Ed,

I've just ordered a G11 and needed the same item. The item MA from Losmondy should work, a bit pricey but should do the trick. I have a home made pier that is definitely non standard so it's always a challenge. As I've not received it yet I can't testify to it, but I'm sure others in this group can.

Steve



Meade field tripod adapter

6.0" diameter, 4.0" high. Inside machined to fit G-11 and GM-8 mounts. Tube has 1/2" thick bottom with 1/2" hole in center, posts for the electronics are mounted on the side. Also used on top of permanent piers.





----- Original Message -----

From: Fitzgerald

To: Losmandy

Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 11:15 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Mounting GM-8 Head on Pier





Does Losmandy have some attachment I can put on the top of a pier that the

GM-8 head will fit into?







Ed Fitzgerald



fitzgerald@...















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

ADVERTISEMENT











---------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/



b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#22647 Oct 4, 2004

Rainer,



Your links, as published, never seem to work and it's annoying to have to repeatedly ask for the 'instructions' to get around the problem with your ISP. Please post the instructions with your links or FIX the problem.



Forrest

> From: "Rainer" rsbfoto@...>

> Date: 2004/10/04 Mon PM 03:56:24 EDT

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Mounting GM-8 Head on Pier

>

>

>

> Hi Ed,

>

> Here you can see the MA on 2 plates on top of a concrete pier.

>

> I first used a 1/2 screw with nut for fixing the MA. Oriented to

> north and then drilled another 3 1/4" holes and fixed permenently the

> MA on the upper plate.

>

> www.rsfotografia.com/pozos/images/O-Obs27.jpg

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Steele" dsteele@m...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Look at the Losmandy part "MA". It is the tripod adapter. You'll

> still

> > need an "under flange" that it mounts onto and that is adjustable so

> > as to level it.....

> >

> > Dennis

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Fitzgerald"

> fitzgerald@m...>

> > wrote:

> > > Does Losmandy have some attachment I can put on the top of a pier

> > that the

> > > GM-8 head will fit into?

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Ed Fitzgerald

> > >

> > > fitzgerald@m...

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#22648 Oct 4, 2004

Hmm...The links worked for me.



Ed Fitzgerald

fitzgerald@...



-----Original Message-----

From: fegan@... [mailto:fegan@...]

Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 3:45 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Cc: fegan@...

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Mounting GM-8 Head on Pier





Rainer,



Your links, as published, never seem to work and it's annoying to have to

repeatedly ask for the 'instructions' to get around the problem with your

ISP. Please post the instructions with your links or FIX the problem.



Forrest

> From: "Rainer" rsbfoto@...>

> Date: 2004/10/04 Mon PM 03:56:24 EDT

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Mounting GM-8 Head on Pier

>

>

>

> Hi Ed,

>

> Here you can see the MA on 2 plates on top of a concrete pier.

>

> I first used a 1/2 screw with nut for fixing the MA. Oriented to

> north and then drilled another 3 1/4" holes and fixed permenently the

> MA on the upper plate.

>

> www.rsfotografia.com/pozos/images/O-Obs27.jpg

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Steele" dsteele@m...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Look at the Losmandy part "MA". It is the tripod adapter. You'll

> still

> > need an "under flange" that it mounts onto and that is adjustable so

> > as to level it.....

> >

> > Dennis

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Fitzgerald"

> fitzgerald@m...>

> > wrote:

> > > Does Losmandy have some attachment I can put on the top of a pier

> > that the

> > > GM-8 head will fit into?

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Ed Fitzgerald

> > >

> > > fitzgerald@m...

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>











Yahoo! Groups Links







----------------------------

#22649 Oct 4, 2004

Hi Forrest,



I am really sorry. I will put that site on another domain I have. I

always forget that HotLink.



Please forgive.



I will do that right now.



Apologies.



regards Rainer



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, fegan@b...> wrote:

> Rainer,

>

> Your links, as published, never seem to work and it's annoying to

have to repeatedly ask for the 'instructions' to get around the

problem with your ISP. Please post the instructions with your links

or FIX the problem.

>

> Forrest

>

> > From: "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

> > Date: 2004/10/04 Mon PM 03:56:24 EDT

> > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Mounting GM-8 Head on Pier

> >

> >

> >

> > Hi Ed,

> >

> > Here you can see the MA on 2 plates on top of a concrete pier.

> >

> > I first used a 1/2 screw with nut for fixing the MA. Oriented to

> > north and then drilled another 3 1/4" holes and fixed permenently

the

> > MA on the upper plate.

> >

> > www.rsfotografia.com/pozos/images/O-Obs27.jpg

> >

> > regards Rainer

> >

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Steele"

dsteele@m...>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > Look at the Losmandy part "MA". It is the tripod adapter.

You'll

> > still

> > > need an "under flange" that it mounts onto and that is

adjustable so

> > > as to level it.....

> > >

> > > Dennis

> > >

> > >

> > > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Fitzgerald"

> > fitzgerald@m...>

> > > wrote:

> > > > Does Losmandy have some attachment I can put on the top of a

pier

> > > that the

> > > > GM-8 head will fit into?

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > Ed Fitzgerald

> > > >

> > > > fitzgerald@m...

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >



----------------------------

#22650 Oct 4, 2004

Hi Forrest,



As promised here it is



www.fotos-del-desierto.com/pozos/



please check it. It is the history of building my observatory.



Please accept my apologies :-(



Rainer



----------------------------

#22653 Oct 4, 2004

Rainer, the pier you've made is very nice. I don't think that *two*

plates are necessary, however. One level plate would work just fine.

Even though, I can't image that the extra plate and supports introduce

any problems.





Dennis



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote:

>

> Hi Forrest,

>

> As promised here it is

>

> www.fotos-del-desierto.com/pozos/

>

> please check it. It is the history of building my observatory.

>

> Please accept my apologies :-(

>

> Rainer



----------------------------

#22654 Oct 4, 2004

Hi Dennis,



I did not want to put the levelling threaded bolts in concrete. That

is why I used 2 plates.



In the meantime it has changed substantially because I had to lift

the position of the MA after getting scopes and now I have a 14"

extension, made out of a 9" and a 5", and some more plates.



As I did not know what would be the correct height I made those 2

extension tubes.



I have not yet made a Photo. Maybe I should take some in the near

future.



regards Rainer







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Steele" dsteele@m...>

wrote: >

> Rainer, the pier you've made is very nice. I don't think that *two*

> plates are necessary, however. One level plate would work just fine.

> Even though, I can't image that the extra plate and supports

introduce > any problems.

>

>

> Dennis

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

wrote: > >

> > Hi Forrest,

> >

> > As promised here it is

> >

> > www.fotos-del-desierto.com/pozos/

> >

> > please check it. It is the history of building my observatory.

> >

> > Please accept my apologies :-(

> >

> > Rainer



----------------------------

#22656 Oct 4, 2004

I like your pier too and appreciate the problems with height as I'm finding mine a little short. I'm on my knees to look through my 127ED when looking straight up, good job I put foam down to cushion those eyepieces I hope not to drop. Unfortunately I can't go too much higher as I'm using a modified garden shed for my building, unless I raise it's walls some more.



Thanks also for the advise on the G11. I'm looking forward to getting mine, they said about 4 weeks. Then I can see what the exposed contacts look like for myself and decide about the hot glue trick, I like that idea.



I just received my Denk II's and tried them out tonight. Can only use high power as the OS won't fit my Meade Diagonal. But they are great, so much more comfortable. Lousy seeing tonight but I had a good view of M57 and a number of doubles. It will be interesting to try them when the viewing is better and I have a new diagonal.



Good skies,

Steve

----- Original Message -----

From: Rainer

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 7:24 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Mounting GM-8 Head on Pier







Hi Dennis,



I did not want to put the levelling threaded bolts in concrete. That

is why I used 2 plates.



In the meantime it has changed substantially because I had to lift

the position of the MA after getting scopes and now I have a 14"

extension, made out of a 9" and a 5", and some more plates.



As I did not know what would be the correct height I made those 2

extension tubes.



I have not yet made a Photo. Maybe I should take some in the near

future.



regards Rainer







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Steele" dsteele@m...>

wrote:

>

> Rainer, the pier you've made is very nice. I don't think that *two*

> plates are necessary, however. One level plate would work just fine.

> Even though, I can't image that the extra plate and supports

introduce

> any problems.

>

>

> Dennis

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

wrote:

> >

> > Hi Forrest,

> >

> > As promised here it is

> >

> > www.fotos-del-desierto.com/pozos/

> >

> > please check it. It is the history of building my observatory.

> >

> > Please accept my apologies :-(

> >

> > Rainer









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----------------------------

#22660 Oct 5, 2004

Rainier:



Your obsevatory looks excellent.



With all the extensions that you added, what was the final height to

the Losmandy MA part. What do you recommend?



Mike Laine

San Jose, CA



----------------------------

#22663 Oct 5, 2004

Hi Mike,



Thanks :-)) Well there is no rule. Put the OTA in vertical position

and put the OTA in the horizon viewing position and find out which

height in both cases is comfortable and acceptable.



Here is a sketch of my new setup



www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pierext.jpg



The total length from thr bottom to where the MA begins is about

115cm ~ 45.25" + 4", roughly 50" ( " = inches not arcseconds ) from

the MA + G11.



I have a TOA 130 sitting on top of it and yes I was able to lay mi

head on the floor :-)) without extension when looking up to the

zenith.



Rainer



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Laine" mdlaine@e...>

wrote: >

> Rainier:

>

> Your obsevatory looks excellent.

>

> With all the extensions that you added, what was the final height

to > the Losmandy MA part. What do you recommend?

>

> Mike Laine

> San Jose, CA



----------------------------

#22720 Oct 10, 2004

Hi Everybody,



I was at my observatory this weekend. Here you have some photos of my

futuristic pier extension. Please do not ask me why so many plates. I

had them all spare from my former setups :-)) so I used them all and

it gives some more weight on the foot.



www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pier01.jpg

www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pier02.jpg

www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pier03.jpg



I had to do it because I did not have my final equipment as it grew

quite fast. I used to use my G11 with my Canon telephotos 300mm as

well as 500mm and then I decided to get a FS 78 and a TOA 130 and

therefore I had to extend the pier.



The yellow color of the iron tubes is a special antirust treatment

with cadmium, we call it here in Mexico "Tropicalize". It is a great

treatment adn it really withstands the weather excellent. It is

better than Galvanize the parts.



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#22721 Oct 10, 2004

Hello Rainer & the group,

Is it better to use 3 bolts to level the scope as in

this setup, or to use square plates and four bolts one

at each corner?

Thanks

john

--- Rainer rsbfoto@...> wrote:







---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

mail.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#22722 Oct 10, 2004

Hi John,



Use 3 bolts. 3 is easier to level and is a lot more rigid than four.



-Paul



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, John Messina majorobs14@y...>

wrote: > Hello Rainer & the group,

> Is it better to use 3 bolts to level the scope as in

> this setup, or to use square plates and four bolts one

> at each corner?

> Thanks

> john

> --- Rainer rsbfoto@r...> wrote:

>



----------------------------

#22725 Oct 11, 2004

Hola Rainer,

very nice setup!



Regards

Jordi



P.S. by the way many people (including myself)have used 4 bolts

without any problem :-)



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote:

>

> Hi Everybody,

>

> I was at my observatory this weekend. Here you have some photos of

my

> futuristic pier extension. Please do not ask me why so many plates.

I

> had them all spare from my former setups :-)) so I used them all

and

> it gives some more weight on the foot.

>

> www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pier01.jpg

> www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pier02.jpg

> www.fotos-del-desierto.com/astro/pier03.jpg

>

> I had to do it because I did not have my final equipment as it grew

> quite fast. I used to use my G11 with my Canon telephotos 300mm as

> well as 500mm and then I decided to get a FS 78 and a TOA 130 and

> therefore I had to extend the pier.

>

> The yellow color of the iron tubes is a special antirust treatment

> with cadmium, we call it here in Mexico "Tropicalize". It is a

great

> treatment adn it really withstands the weather excellent. It is

> better than Galvanize the parts.

>

> regards Rainer



----------------------------

#22979 Nov 5, 2004

Hi All,

I am getting ready to get a pier for my GM8 and I wanted to know

what experience anyone may have had with either the LeSueur or

Skyshed pier?

Clear Skies

Olivier



----------------------------

#22984 Nov 5, 2004

Hi Olivier,



I have the LeSeur pier with my G11 and love it. It was easy to

install (other than digging a 4 feet hole with rocks in the way :)

and has held up to the weather for the last three years with no

problems.



I have it outside, not in a shed or observatory, just covered by a

water-proof tarp.



Support is excellent also. I had ordered an eyepiece rack with my

pier, but didn't get to install the pier for almost a year. When I

unwrapped everything a year later, I found that I was missing some

hardware for installing the rack. I called LeSeur, and had everything

I needed in a couple of days, free of charge, and they paid the

shipping.



I have no experience with Skyshed piers, so can't comment :)



Regards,



-paul







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "olivierfp" oprache@o...>

wrote: >

> Hi All,

> I am getting ready to get a pier for my GM8 and I wanted to know

> what experience anyone may have had with either the LeSueur or

> Skyshed pier?

> Clear Skies

> Olivier







----------------------------

#22987 Nov 5, 2004

Olivier:







I have a LeSeuer pier in my backyard observatory and recently switched from

a Meade superwedge to a Losmandy G11. These two setups use two different

'adapters' at the top of the pier. The G11 adapter arrived and didn't fit

very well into the standard 6" pier - it was too large by a few thousandths.

So make sure that if you order the equipment that the adapter will slip

easily into the pier; otherwise you may not be able to make some coarse

azimuth adjustments. Other than this problem I have been very pleased with

the pier.







Clear Skies



Gregg







visit my astronomy page:



www.ruppel.darkhorizons.org> www.ruppel.darkhorizons.org



_____



From: olivierfp [mailto:oprache@...]

Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 6:10 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] LeSueur vs. SkyShed Pier









Hi All,

I am getting ready to get a pier for my GM8 and I wanted to know

what experience anyone may have had with either the LeSueur or

Skyshed pier?

Clear Skies

Olivier

















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----------------------------

#22999 Nov 5, 2004

Paul,

Thanks for the feedback. Do you leave the mount and ota under the

tarp or just the mount? My setup will be similar to yours with the

bolts anchored into a boulder via epoxy. The shed may come later.

The winter near New York can be tough at times.

Regards

Olivier







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Paul K" pkane2001@h...>

wrote: >

> Hi Olivier,

>

> I have the LeSeur pier with my G11 and love it. It was easy to

> install (other than digging a 4 feet hole with rocks in the way :)

> and has held up to the weather for the last three years with no

> problems.

>

> I have it outside, not in a shed or observatory, just covered by a

> water-proof tarp.

>

> Support is excellent also. I had ordered an eyepiece rack with my

> pier, but didn't get to install the pier for almost a year. When I

> unwrapped everything a year later, I found that I was missing some

> hardware for installing the rack. I called LeSeur, and had

everything > I needed in a couple of days, free of charge, and they paid the

> shipping.

>

> I have no experience with Skyshed piers, so can't comment :)

>

> Regards,

>

> -paul

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "olivierfp" oprache@o...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Hi All,

> > I am getting ready to get a pier for my GM8 and I wanted to know

> > what experience anyone may have had with either the LeSueur or

> > Skyshed pier?

> > Clear Skies

> > Olivier



----------------------------

#23000 Nov 5, 2004

Olivier,



I'm located about 30 miles south-west of NYC, so know these winters

well :)



I leave the mount and the motors on the pier, but disconnect the

electronics if I'm not going to use the mount for a few nights in a

row. The OTA comes home with me each time. This way I remain polar

aligned, and don't waste too much time on setup.



Regards,



-Paul



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "olivierfp" oprache@o...>

wrote: >

> Paul,

> Thanks for the feedback. Do you leave the mount and ota under the

> tarp or just the mount? My setup will be similar to yours with the

> bolts anchored into a boulder via epoxy. The shed may come later.

> The winter near New York can be tough at times.

> Regards

> Olivier

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Paul K" pkane2001@h...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Olivier,

> >

> > I have the LeSeur pier with my G11 and love it. It was easy to

> > install (other than digging a 4 feet hole with rocks in the

way :) > > and has held up to the weather for the last three years with no

> > problems.

> >

> > I have it outside, not in a shed or observatory, just covered by

a > > water-proof tarp.

> >

> > Support is excellent also. I had ordered an eyepiece rack with my

> > pier, but didn't get to install the pier for almost a year. When

I > > unwrapped everything a year later, I found that I was missing

some > > hardware for installing the rack. I called LeSeur, and had

> everything

> > I needed in a couple of days, free of charge, and they paid the

> > shipping.

> >

> > I have no experience with Skyshed piers, so can't comment :)

> >

> > Regards,

> >

> > -paul

> >

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "olivierfp" oprache@o...>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > Hi All,

> > > I am getting ready to get a pier for my GM8 and I wanted to

know > > > what experience anyone may have had with either the LeSueur or

> > > Skyshed pier?

> > > Clear Skies

> > > Olivier







----------------------------

#23171 Nov 23, 2004

Has anyone purchased one of these for their G11? I am looking for

some kind of integrated table or shelf for my Gemini equiped G11.

Any ideas out there?



Jim



----------------------------

#23173 Nov 23, 2004

Jim,



I have one; I got it used off AstroMart.

Overall, it's pretty nicely made, and looks good. I like having a

place to keep eyepieces handy, and a small surface on which to put

things like a flashlight, a chart, or my glasses.



There are some caveats, however. Perhaps the most disturbing thing is

that the eyepiece holes don't seem very accurately sized; they're about

0.07" too big.

One of my 1.25" eyepieces passes right through (and yes, I discovered

this the hard way -- luckily the eyepiece appears to be undamaged after

its 3-foot drop onto concrete).

Also, the way it clamps to the pier, and the tight fit, means it is

very easy to scratch the pier when installing, moving or removing the

table.

If you get one, I'd recommend you study the setup in the "GEM table"

photo in the group archives. Putting the Gemini off to the side, like

in the photo, seems the best setup.

Otherwise the table fouls the counterweight shaft, or sits under the

Gemini.



Hope this helps,

Mario



----------------------------

#24861 Mar 27, 2005

Having bought a G11 & a 130 Tak OTA, I am looking for a pier to have

my setup in place in a relatively short time. My pier & mount would be

kept outdoors (well protected) and I would only move them on wheels

some 3-4 meters to its observing site.



I want a pier because it provides more convenience (you do not mess up

with the tripod legs & it will be easier to move around than the

regular tripod). ALso, I like the more permanent feel that it provides.



I wonder if any of you guys have considered the same in the past, and

what options you have pursued. Is there any pier I should consider for

my G11 ? I think Losmandy does not include one pier in its catalogue.



Of course, the best looking piers are ones made by Takahashi but they

are very expensive, ad I guess they won't even match the G11 head's

diameter.



Any thoughts are welcome,



Josep

Barcelona, Spain



----------------------------

#24867 Mar 27, 2005

Hola Josep,



Well if you already keep everything outside well protected why would

you then move it 3-4 meters everytime ? Why do you not leave it at

the observing site and build a pier into the ground ?



I have seen no movable pier that has no 3 legs on which you bump your

feet on it :-))



Any movable pier will need 3 legs which go outwards to give the whole

system stability. The G11 tripod is so sturdy that if you bump your

feet on it the only damage will be on your feet :-))



saludos Rainer





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "pepineus" pepineus@t...>

wrote: >

> Having bought a G11 & a 130 Tak OTA, I am looking for a pier to have

> my setup in place in a relatively short time. My pier & mount would

be > kept outdoors (well protected) and I would only move them on wheels

> some 3-4 meters to its observing site.

>

> I want a pier because it provides more convenience (you do not mess

up > with the tripod legs & it will be easier to move around than the

> regular tripod). ALso, I like the more permanent feel that it

provides. >

> I wonder if any of you guys have considered the same in the past,

and > what options you have pursued. Is there any pier I should consider

for > my G11 ? I think Losmandy does not include one pier in its

catalogue. >

> Of course, the best looking piers are ones made by Takahashi but

they > are very expensive, ad I guess they won't even match the G11 head's

> diameter.

>

> Any thoughts are welcome,

>

> Josep

> Barcelona, Spain



----------------------------

#24877 Mar 27, 2005

Hello Rainer,



Several reasons to move the set-up: First, I do not really want to

build a permanent pier for the mount since my terrace is not that big,

and we will usually use it for other ends. Also, the midlle of it will

always be under direct sun, and I find than by moving it 3-4 mts it

will be protected by a short ceiling the terrace has on one side,

problebley a more benign solution for the mount head; last but not

least my wife will probably not allow a permanent pier !!!



Sorry I may have not expressed myself very well: I meant the tripod

legs are not as convenient as the pier legs, as they introduce

themselves in the space where you will usually be peeking at the

eyepiece. I might be wrong, and the benefit of this is much less...



I will agree that a permanent pier without legs would be just perfect,

but I cannot build one at this time, not just yet.



Clear skies,



Josep

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote:

>

> Hola Josep,

>

> Well if you already keep everything outside well protected why would

> you then move it 3-4 meters everytime ? Why do you not leave it at

> the observing site and build a pier into the ground ?

>

> I have seen no movable pier that has no 3 legs on which you bump your

> feet on it :-))

>

> Any movable pier will need 3 legs which go outwards to give the whole

> system stability. The G11 tripod is so sturdy that if you bump your

> feet on it the only damage will be on your feet :-))

>

> saludos Rainer

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "pepineus" pepineus@t...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Having bought a G11 & a 130 Tak OTA, I am looking for a pier to have

> > my setup in place in a relatively short time. My pier & mount would

> be

> > kept outdoors (well protected) and I would only move them on wheels

> > some 3-4 meters to its observing site.

> >

> > I want a pier because it provides more convenience (you do not mess

> up

> > with the tripod legs & it will be easier to move around than the

> > regular tripod). ALso, I like the more permanent feel that it

> provides.







> >

> > I wonder if any of you guys have considered the same in the past,

> and

> > what options you have pursued. Is there any pier I should consider

> for

> > my G11 ? I think Losmandy does not include one pier in its

> catalogue.

> >

> > Of course, the best looking piers are ones made by Takahashi but

> they

> > are very expensive, ad I guess they won't even match the G11 head's

> > diameter.

> >

> > Any thoughts are welcome,

> >

> > Josep

> > Barcelona, Spain







----------------------------

#25171 Apr 20, 2005

Hello all,

Remember back in December when Paul K. related a story about his mount

tracking into the pier? The SW didn't stall the motor, but instead

pulled enough current to blow the fuse.



A similar thing happened to me last night, and shed some light on what

happened (ie - why the SW didn't shut down the motor). I was slewing

to an object, and didn't have my safety limits set correctly. The

knob on the saddleplate came into contact with my RA motor.

Fortunately, the slew was ramping down at the time, so no damage was

done. However, when I backed off, I discovered that my pointing was

off by a few degrees in RA. It finally occured to me what happened

both in my case, and I suspect in Paul's.



Gemini will detect a stalled motor and cut the current to it to keep

it from burning out. It does this by detecting that the encoders are

not counting when current is applied to the motor. However, in the

case of the mount coming into contact with itself or the pier, the

motor *doesn't stop*. Rather, it pulls against the clutch on the GM-8

or G-11. Depending on how tight your clutch is, the motor will have

to work harder, but will still be moving. That's why you can't rely

on the motor stalled logic to shut down current to the motors when the

mount hits something. The motors are still moving, so the logic never

sees a stall.



Bottom line is to be sure to set your safety limits correctly, and

take Paul's recommendation to install an inline fuse.



Clear skies,

Dave S.



----------------------------

#25173 Apr 20, 2005

Hi Dave,



That was my thinking as well. That certainly explains why the motors

often heat up but do not stall when an obstruction is encountered:

the motors are working against the clutches, which are much more

difficult to move than a well-balanced mount, but still allow

motors to turn.



A fuse is the easiest and safest modification one can make to the

Gemini system, and I believe well worth the effort and the minimal

cost :)



Regards,



-Paul





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sandage" daves@e...>

wrote: >

> Hello all,

> Remember back in December when Paul K. related a story about his

mount > tracking into the pier? The SW didn't stall the motor, but instead

> pulled enough current to blow the fuse.

>

> A similar thing happened to me last night, and shed some light on

what > happened (ie - why the SW didn't shut down the motor). I was

slewing > to an object, and didn't have my safety limits set correctly. The

> knob on the saddleplate came into contact with my RA motor.

> Fortunately, the slew was ramping down at the time, so no damage

was > done. However, when I backed off, I discovered that my pointing

was > off by a few degrees in RA. It finally occured to me what happened

> both in my case, and I suspect in Paul's.

>

> Gemini will detect a stalled motor and cut the current to it to

keep > it from burning out. It does this by detecting that the encoders

are > not counting when current is applied to the motor. However, in the

> case of the mount coming into contact with itself or the pier, the

> motor *doesn't stop*. Rather, it pulls against the clutch on the

GM-8 > or G-11. Depending on how tight your clutch is, the motor will

have > to work harder, but will still be moving. That's why you can't

rely > on the motor stalled logic to shut down current to the motors when

the > mount hits something. The motors are still moving, so the logic

never > sees a stall.

>

> Bottom line is to be sure to set your safety limits correctly, and

> take Paul's recommendation to install an inline fuse.

>

> Clear skies,

> Dave S.



----------------------------

#26125 Jun 19, 2005

I've just finished pouring a concrete footing for the pier in my

'under-construction' observatory. What have some of you used as an adapter

between your pier and the G-11? I will still take the G-11/Gemini out to

star parties a couple of times a year, so I don't want to do anything to

preclude use of the G-11 tripod.



Bruce Berger



----------------------------

#26127 Jun 19, 2005

Depending on your design, you can use the Losmandy MA adapter. Dennis



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, bruce@s...> wrote:

> I've just finished pouring a concrete footing for the pier in my

> 'under-construction' observatory. What have some of you used as an

adapter

> between your pier and the G-11? I will still take the G-11/Gemini

out to

> star parties a couple of times a year, so I don't want to do

anything to

> preclude use of the G-11 tripod.

>

> Bruce Berger



----------------------------

#26140 Jun 21, 2005

Thanks Anthony. I did sink J-Bolts into the wet concrete of the 12" diameter

pier. But now I have to extend the pier up about another foot, so I'll pour

a cap on top of this one, using the 4" protruding J-Bolts with nuts and

washers like rebar to hold the 2 pours together, and put new J-Bolts into

the cap. Also, I use a concrete bonding agent commonly referred to as Milk

to further strengthen the bond between the 2 pours.



Bruce ----- Original Message -----

From: "Helix Gate" helixgate@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 11:31 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Pier Adapter?







Hi Bruce,



My observatory is just about completed. I used a concrete pier

construction with the MA adapter in the design plans. This made it

essential for me to insert the J-bolt into the concrete while still

wet. Did you make any provisions for any anchors prior to having the

pier poured?

I plan on posting images of my construction, but I can send you a

picture of my pier/MA combo if interested, so as to give you an idea of

how it's constructed.





Anthony



www.helixgate.net



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Steele" densteele@g...>

wrote:

> Depending on your design, you can use the Losmandy MA adapter. Dennis

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, bruce@s...> wrote:

> > I've just finished pouring a concrete footing for the pier in my

> > 'under-construction' observatory. What have some of you used as an

> adapter

> > between your pier and the G-11? I will still take the G-11/Gemini

> out to

> > star parties a couple of times a year, so I don't want to do

> anything to

> > preclude use of the G-11 tripod.

> >

> > Bruce Berger











Yahoo! Groups Links







----------------------------

#27472 Oct 16, 2005

I am thinking about installing a permanent pier to mount my GM-8. I am looking for info

regarding commercially available piers and other info. I am using a C 9.25 and TV 102.

Thanks



Smilen



----------------------------

#27473 Oct 16, 2005

Lesueur Manufacturing (www.astropier.com)makes a good steel column

pier. I bought one in January for my GM8 and am very happy with both

the service and the pier itself.

Olivier

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Smilen" hkstaub_1999@y...> wrote:

>

> I am thinking about installing a permanent pier to mount my GM-8. I

am looking for info

> regarding commercially available piers and other info. I am using a

C 9.25 and TV 102.

> Thanks

>

> Smilen

>



----------------------------

#27474 Oct 16, 2005

I installed an "Astro Pier" from Le Sueur Manufacturing for my G11 and

I'm very happy with it. You can see how it was installed and the

finished pier on my deck at www.alexthedog.com under "Building the

Pier". The pier came with a great kit for embedding the bolts into

concrete and very clear instructions.



Craig

On Sun, 2005-10-16 at 22:32 +0000, Smilen wrote:

> I am thinking about installing a permanent pier to mount my GM-8. I am looking for info

> regarding commercially available piers and other info. I am using a C 9.25 and TV 102.

> Thanks

>

> Smilen

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#27478 Oct 17, 2005

Aftermarket piers are expensive unless you can do your own welding.

I use reinforced concrete poured into a tube that can be had from

Home Depot for under $10. On top of that is the Losmandy MA pier

adapter. You can see the pictures of it on my web site at:

helixgate.net/observatory1.html



I have no problems with vibrations even with cars passing by or me

walking in the observatory as evident by the auto guiding tracking

display.



Best Regards,

Mike



www.helixgate.net



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Smilen" hkstaub_1999@y...>

wrote: >

> I am thinking about installing a permanent pier to mount my GM-8.

I am looking for info > regarding commercially available piers and other info. I am using

a C 9.25 and TV 102. > Thanks

>

> Smilen

>



----------------------------

#28081 Dec 2, 2005

I have been able to find adapter plate to allow the G11 to be used on a LX200 Pier,

Does anyone know of an adapter plate that allows the LX200 to be used on the G11 Pier?



Thanks

Doug



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#28713 Feb 3 8:03 PM

Hello group,

I am looking for suggestions for the best pier height for use with a

Losmandy HGM 200 or Titan gem and a 7" F9 Refractor.

Thanks,

John



----------------------------

#28714 Feb 4 8:06 AM

For reference the Titan tripod extends to 60 inches and that height is

surely meant for refractors. The Titan head will carry the scope an

additional 18 inches higher than that. The G11 tripod is 50 inches

off the ground and the center of the saddle plate around 60, maybe

58. Fully extended with a c14 whose butt is very close to the main

axis, I get down as low as 6 inches off the ground in my observing

chair. A refractor wouldn't work under those conditions. My best

guess for a C14/Titan combo is 42 inches and I would guess that your

refractor would be happiest at 60 inches or more. A good place to ask

is on the ap-ug (astrophysics user group).



regards

greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "John" majorobs14@...> wrote:

>

> Hello group,

> I am looking for suggestions for the best pier height for use with a

> Losmandy HGM 200 or Titan gem and a 7" F9 Refractor.

> Thanks,

> John

>



----------------------------

#28737 Feb 7 12:12 AM

Hi Group,

Can anyone suggest an easy method of mounting an HGM-200 mount to a

flat steel plate on the top pf a pier?

Is there a ready made device for this purpose?

Thanks

John



----------------------------

#28744 Feb 7 12:32 PM

Hi John,



I guess it is similar to the Titan. Call Scott Losmandy and ask him

if he has something like his MA adapter (Meade Field tripod adapter)

for the HGM-200.



I bought a MA in order to put my G11 on my Pier. Look here



www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs28.html



www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos2/pages/Obser00-56.html



If not you can surely find a machine shop that makes you a pot like

that.



regards Rainer



>

> Hi Group,

> Can anyone suggest an easy method of mounting an HGM-200 mount to a

> flat steel plate on the top pf a pier?

> Is there a ready made device for this purpose?

> Thanks

> John

>



----------------------------

#28893 Feb 20 10:35 PM

My 8" SCT was on a fork mount when I bought my LeSueur Astro Pier

www.davidillig.com/observatory14.shtml>. The height was perfect. Now that the

OTA is on a G-11 the pier is too short -- the eyepiece is too low for comfort.



If you're about 5'11" or so I would like to know the distance from the floor (or other surface

that you stand on) to the eyepiece cup with your mount in the CWD position, OTA pointing

toward the NCP. If I'm lucky enough to get several answers I can use them as a starting point

in deciding how far to extend my pier.



Many thanks,



David







----------------------------

#29591 Apr 26, 2006

Hello all -



I am considering a G11. What is the diameter of the base of the

mount? IIRC it is somewhere over 5.5" but 6". This does not have to

be precise.



Thanks

Dan



----------------------------

#29592 Apr 26, 2006

Hi Dan,



Make yourself life easy and get a MA adapter from Losmandy. The outer

diameter is 6", the inner diameter is 5.5" and the height is 4". The

adapter costs about US $ 90.00 and you have no need to make any special

adapters.



Look here



www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs26.html

www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs27.html

www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs28.html



That is what the MA adapter looks like. It has a 1/2" hole in the

center and the 2 ears to fasten the Gemini control box.



www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos2/pages/Obser00-81.html



regards Rainer









>

> Hello all -

>

> I am considering a G11. What is the diameter of the base of the

> mount? IIRC it is somewhere over 5.5" but 6". This does not have to

> be precise.

>

> Thanks

> Dan

>



----------------------------

#29599 Apr 27, 2006

Rainer wrote: > Hi Dan,

>

> Make yourself life easy and get a MA adapter from Losmandy. The outer

> diameter is 6", the inner diameter is 5.5" and the height is 4". The

> adapter costs about US $ 90.00 and you have no need to make any special

> adapters.



I just ordered one of these yesterday from OPT (Oceanside Photo & Tele).

Their price is $79.



--

Jim Bessette

jbessette@...



----------------------------

#29601 Apr 27, 2006

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@...> wrote: >

> Hi Dan,

>

> Make yourself life easy and get a MA adapter from Losmandy. The outer

> diameter is 6", the inner diameter is 5.5" and the height is 4". The

> adapter costs about US $ 90.00 and you have no need to make any special

> adapters.

>

> Look here

>

> www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs26.html

> www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs27.html

> www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/pages/O-Obs28.html

>

> That is what the MA adapter looks like. It has a 1/2" hole in the

> center and the 2 ears to fasten the Gemini control box.

>

> www.rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos2/pages/Obser00-81.html

>

> regards Rainer

>

Thanks Ranier and Jim -



I have seen this part but I have a flange on top of my pier that

prevents me from using it. This would work perfectly if the bottom

plate was removed. Maybe I will call Losmandy and see if they could

provide me with one. Thanks again -

Dan



----------------------------

#29602 Apr 27, 2006

Hi,



I do not understand that. How does your flange look like ?



regards Rainer



> Thanks Ranier and Jim -

>

> I have seen this part but I have a flange on top of my pier that

> prevents me from using it. This would work perfectly if the bottom

> plate was removed. Maybe I will call Losmandy and see if they could

> provide me with one. Thanks again -

> Dan

>



----------------------------

#29729 May 11, 2006

H gang,

I make a 360 deg. Rotating Pier adapter for AP 900 and 1200 mounts.

I wonder if there would be any intrest in an Adapter to fit the GM 8

and G 11 mounts? They would probably sell for $200. They would be made

from CNC machind 6061 Aluminum and Black Anodized.



Mal speer

www.malcoprecision.com



----------------------------

#29730 May 11, 2006

Dear Mal,

I may be off base and ignorant as well - but still seems to me that the weakest link in the GM-8 set-up is the tripod; esp when working at about 24# and imaging.

bearings, etc can be "worked on."



So, I am considering seriously the purchase of a Pinnacle mount from PWT and so it seems to me that the rotating pier would be highly useful. Even now, after using my trusty boy scout compass in a new site, i am sometimes (usually) off so that I go through the shifting and moving routine in the dark with a load on the mount then I can use the alz, adj. Of course, it was leveled in the light, and now I;ve destroyed the leveling..... mmmm..



I hope this paen of pain is useful to you.



frank r. siroky

santa rosa, ca.

frsiroky@...





Mal Speer mal@...> wrote: H gang,

I make a 360 deg. Rotating Pier adapter for AP 900 and 1200 mounts.

I wonder if there would be any intrest in an Adapter to fit the GM 8

and G 11 mounts? They would probably sell for $200. They would be made

from CNC machind 6061 Aluminum and Black Anodized.



Mal speer

www.malcoprecision.com













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----------------------------

#29731 May 11, 2006

One for the MI-250 would be nice. I have to use mine in the field mostly.



Thomas Hilton



Mal Speer wrote:

>H gang,

>I make a 360 deg. Rotating Pier adapter for AP 900 and 1200 mounts.

>I wonder if there would be any intrest in an Adapter to fit the GM 8

>and G 11 mounts? They would probably sell for $200. They would be made

>from CNC machind 6061 Aluminum and Black Anodized.

>

>Mal speer

>www.malcoprecision.com

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#29734 May 11, 2006

Hi, Mal:



I can't tell you how many times I have set up my G11 using a compass for

rough polar alignment, only to find when I peer through the polar alignment

scope that I am off by about 9 degrees--with only about 7.5 degrees of

azimuth adjustment built into the mount! I'd certainly be interested in

learning more about your product. Do you have pictures or drawings of the

adapters you are making for the Astro-Physics mounts?



Regards,



Eric Baumgartner

Redding, CT USA



On 05/11/06 12:58 PM, "Mal Speer" mal@...> wrote:



> H gang,

> I make a 360 deg. Rotating Pier adapter for AP 900 and 1200 mounts.

> I wonder if there would be any intrest in an Adapter to fit the GM 8

> and G 11 mounts? They would probably sell for $200. They would be made

> from CNC machind 6061 Aluminum and Black Anodized.

>

> Mal speer

> www.malcoprecision.com



----------------------------

#29735 May 11, 2006

Eric,



You shouldn't have any trouble getting within a degree or two using a

compass to set up your G11. You are compensating for declination aren't you?

Check out the attached link. Enter your information to find your declination

value, then adjust your compass accordingly.



Steve

AZ. ----- Original Message -----

From: "Eric Baumgartner" malkasten@...>

To: "Losmandy Users egroup" Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:44 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Rotating Pier Adapter



I can't tell you how many times I have set up my G11 using a compass for

rough polar alignment, only to find when I peer through the polar alignment

scope that I am off by about 9 degrees

Regards,

Eric Baumgartner

Redding, CT USA







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#29737 May 11, 2006

Check out my web-site

www.malcoprecision.com or my ad on Astromart.com

Mal



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Eric Baumgartner

malkasten@...> wrote: >

> Hi, Mal:

>

> I can't tell you how many times I have set up my G11 using a

compass for > rough polar alignment, only to find when I peer through the polar

alignment > scope that I am off by about 9 degrees--with only about 7.5

degrees of > azimuth adjustment built into the mount! I'd certainly be

interested in > learning more about your product. Do you have pictures or drawings

of the > adapters you are making for the Astro-Physics mounts?

>

> Regards,

>

> Eric Baumgartner

> Redding, CT USA

>

>

> On 05/11/06 12:58 PM, "Mal Speer" mal@...> wrote:

>

> > H gang,

> > I make a 360 deg. Rotating Pier adapter for AP 900 and 1200

mounts. > > I wonder if there would be any intrest in an Adapter to fit the

GM 8 > > and G 11 mounts? They would probably sell for $200. They would

be made > > from CNC machind 6061 Aluminum and Black Anodized.

> >

> > Mal speer

> > www.malcoprecision.com

>



----------------------------

#29738 May 11, 2006

Me too that's why I made it in the first place.

When I was down at the WSP this year, the guy next to me set up his

AP 1200 mount facing south. I mentioned to him that he was pointing

in the wrong direction before he mounted a 16"RC. This guy was no

sloutch either. It can happen. With my 360 rotating plate he would

have no trouble streighting himself that night if I hadn't said

anything.



Mal



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Steve H" stargazer@...>

wrote: >

> Eric,

>

> You shouldn't have any trouble getting within a degree or two

using a > compass to set up your G11. You are compensating for declination

aren't you? > Check out the attached link. Enter your information to find your

declination > value, then adjust your compass accordingly.

>

> Steve

> AZ.

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Eric Baumgartner" malkasten@...>

> To: "Losmandy Users egroup" Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:44 PM

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Rotating Pier Adapter

>

> I can't tell you how many times I have set up my G11 using a

compass for > rough polar alignment, only to find when I peer through the polar

alignment > scope that I am off by about 9 degrees

> Regards,

> Eric Baumgartner

> Redding, CT USA

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#29744 May 12, 2006

Frank,



I designed and developed what I call full index adapter, FIA for

short, over four years ago. It has been available on Monolith

portable pier for over three year now. FIA is essentially a full

360 degree rotatable pier adapter with a few extras. You can see

pictures and find the description at

www.pwtec.com/monolith_accessories.htm



A similar, but proportionally sized version is also offered for both

sizes of Pinnacle (and thank you for considering the Pinnacle

system). I do not have an accessory page for Pinnacle yet, so

picture of the FIA for Pinnacle are not posted, but will soon. The

FIA for Pinnacle operated the same as the FIA for Monolith.



Thanks,



Shahin Zarehparvar

Particle Wave Technologies







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Frank Siroky frsiroky@...>

wrote: >

> Dear Mal,

> I may be off base and ignorant as well - but still seems to me

that the weakest link in the GM-8 set-up is the tripod; esp when

working at about 24# and imaging. > bearings, etc can be "worked on."

>

> So, I am considering seriously the purchase of a Pinnacle mount

from PWT and so it seems to me that the rotating pier would be

highly useful. Even now, after using my trusty boy scout compass in

a new site, i am sometimes (usually) off so that I go through the

shifting and moving routine in the dark with a load on the mount

then I can use the alz, adj. Of course, it was leveled in the

light, and now I;ve destroyed the leveling..... mmmm.. >

> I hope this paen of pain is useful to you.

>

> frank r. siroky

> santa rosa, ca.

> frsiroky@...

>

>

> Mal Speer mal@...> wrote: H gang,

> I make a 360 deg. Rotating Pier adapter for AP 900 and 1200

mounts. > I wonder if there would be any intrest in an Adapter to fit the

GM 8 > and G 11 mounts? They would probably sell for $200. They would be

made > from CNC machind 6061 Aluminum and Black Anodized.

>

> Mal speer

> www.malcoprecision.com

>

>

>

>

>

>

> SPONSORED LINKS

> Astronomy

magazine Astronomy

telescope Tube

assembly

>

---------------

> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

>

>

> Visit your group "Losmandy_users" on the web.

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

Service. >

>

---------------

>

>

>

>

> ..

---------------

> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.

Great rates starting at 1��/min. >

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#30609 Aug 13, 2006

Hello all, if interested in this great rock solid mount I have one like

new on Astromart set up for the G11 or e-mil me off line. Thank you.



Jeff Vickers



----------------------------

#30676 Aug 22, 2006

I'm told that this link



tinyurl.com/jhhxu



will take you to the up-and-down pier people and I suggest you

follow through. Haven't had time to look at it myself.



Maybe with this capability you can use what ever mount you prefer.



Let us know how it works out,



Greg N



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

wrote: >

> I followed Dr. Clay's advice once and lived to regret it, so take

> the opinion as an opinion.

>

> One way to avoid the weirdnesses of go-to systems is to get

digital > setting circles. Argo Navis is currently achieving pointing

> accuracy similar to go-to systems. But you do have to be able to

> move the scope yourself (and do the final centering with a hand

> paddle). That implies being able to stand up.

>

> I think that simplifying: a wide field scope that doesn't weigh

too > much is a good way to go. This puts the least demands on the

> imager. There probably would be some need for height, but rather

> than trying to fix the MOUNT, I would suggest you give some

> attention to the CHAIR. A chair that can be raised and lowered,

> even electronically, might be the easiest way to adapt.

>

> Also, the MOUNT can be raised and lowered if it is on an

> electroncially motorized PIER. I think you should talk to some of

> the pier people about this (like ATS, and the super-expesnive one

> whose name I always forget). A polar aligned PIER can be raised

and > lowered without changing the polar alignment, and I have heard

about > piers that could be electronically raised and lowered. Ask around

> and don't give up: these DO exist. You might even consider having

a > mount bolted or pier bolted on to some kind of mechanized car

jack. >

> I'm sorry to hear about these difficulties and hope you come to a

> good solution. One of the reasons I go out as often as I do is

that > I fear the day that I won't be able to.

>

> regards

> Greg N

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lafoya14" rod.wilson@>

> wrote:

> >

> > Thanks for that. I may not have the luxury of an observatory so

I > > envisage the tripod and mount permanently set up in the garden

and > > covered somehow when not in use. Then the OTA would be

assembled, > > with help, when necessary.

> > You might be interested in the following comment by Dr Clay

> Sherrod

> > of the LX200GPS group. He is the guru of the group and the

leading > > expert on that rig. :-

> >

> > Well....if you think that a fork mount may be an impairment for

a > >

>







----------------------------

#31572 Nov 27, 2006

I am purchasing a G11 and have an astrophysics 8" pier. Does anyone

know if this will have more or less vibration than the standard

Losmandy pier. I am using it with a 6" F/13 (about 30 lbs) refractor

and would use the Losmandy Pier at thr full 48" height.



Thanks,

Bob



----------------------------

#31573 Nov 27, 2006

rbtdouglas wrote: > I am purchasing a G11 and have an astrophysics 8" pier. Does anyone

> know if this will have more or less vibration than the standard

> Losmandy pier. I am using it with a 6" F/13 (about 30 lbs) refractor

> and would use the Losmandy Pier at thr full 48" height.

>

> Thanks,

> Bob

>

>

>

>

>

Hi Bob,



I have both piers and can see no improvement to either one. But I will

confess that I have never extended the losmandy pier either :). I keep

it low and out of the wind as much as possible.





Regards



Bill



--



William R. Mattil.:.www.celestial-images.com



----------------------------

#31658 Dec 4, 2006

Hi All,



I am considering using a G11 for an 8" f/6 reflector. I require a

portable pier or tripod that is only about 24" tall to keep the

eyepiece at a comfortable height...



Any recommendations ?



Thanks,

Alex

Orlando Fla



----------------------------

#31666 Dec 6, 2006

Has anyone interfaced a G11 to an AstroPhysics Portable Pier ?

It has a 6" diameter tube.



Can someone please tell me the diameter of the G11 base ?

>

> Thanks,

> Alex

> Orlando Fla

>



----------------------------

#36180 Jan 31, 2008

Hi all,



This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long permanent

pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete filled.



Best



Lars



----------------------------

#36181 Jan 31, 2008

Hi Lars,



If I would built a pier like that I would not use a steel pipe all

that long.



I would make it of concrete and in conical shape and then the last

part maybe 60cm of steel pipe.



So you have rock as a base which I think is good.



I would start with 60cm round and then after 150cm finish it at about

40cm round and then the rest with a steel pipe of minimum 25cm better

30cm



best regards Rainer



>

> Hi all,

>

> This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long

permanent > pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete

filled. >

> Best

>

> Lars

>



----------------------------

#36182 Jan 31, 2008

This is totally on topic. And even if it were a bit off, the idea

here is not to be one of those groups where, if you dropped in a piece

of coal, it would come out a diamond a week later.



In answer to your question, one way to proceed is to call a vendor

like ATS and ask what they would recommend. By telling them you are

thinking of designing an observatory around their permanent pier you

can probably get the dimensions out of them.



My general thought, however, is that the pier should be over-built and

over specified with some kind of adapter in mind. The reason being

that you may not want to use the G11 forever. So if you designed to

accommodate a Parmount ME and had an adapter then down the road it

won't seem so nutty to upgrade to a Titan or an AP900, 1200, as you

see fit and as income allows.



Another way to approach the problem is that maybe you want "the

stability of a permanent pier but maybe sometime you'd like to take it

all out." In which case designing your observatory to accommodate a

portable pier (ATS again, or Particle Wave Technologies, PWT) would

work. Parallax has an interesting portable pier design that might

also serve in a permanent mounting situation.



There is another pier company that I see advertising in a small box

add (with picture) in the back of S&T that you might contact, but I

don't remember their name (someone here probably would).



It wouldn't be a bad idea if we had some CAD drawings of the

dimensions of a g8, g11, Titan, HGM 200, and anything else we can

think of in order to answer these kinds of questions with great

precision. Regrettably I'm not in a position to provide that kind of

resource, but with over three thousand members, we might find a

volunteer. If there are such drawings here already I've forgotten

about them, but you should also nose around our FILES and PHOTOs

sections, as well as LINKs. You might for example find some LINKS to

people who have built permanent piers.



Roth Ritter used to image with a G11/c11, I don't know what he's using

these days. (google him)



hope that helps

Greg N







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@...> wrote:

>

> Hi all,

>

> This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long permanent

> pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete filled.

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>







----------------------------

#36183 Jan 31, 2008

All:



Speaking of concrete piers or steel piers - I am a licensed

structural engineer versed in steel and concrete design. I can

produce detailed design drawings to suit your needs if anyone needs

help designing a custom pier...

Scott

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Lars,

>

> If I would built a pier like that I would not use a steel pipe all

> that long.

>

> I would make it of concrete and in conical shape and then the last

> part maybe 60cm of steel pipe.

>

> So you have rock as a base which I think is good.

>

> I would start with 60cm round and then after 150cm finish it at

about

> 40cm round and then the rest with a steel pipe of minimum 25cm

better

> 30cm

>

> best regards Rainer

>

>

> >

> > Hi all,

> >

> > This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> > I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long

> permanent

> > pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> > thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete

> filled.

> >

> > Best

> >

> > Lars

> >

>



----------------------------

#36184 Jan 31, 2008

Lars,



I built a steel pier 87" (220cm) out of 10" (25cm) diameter steel pipe with a wall thickness of 3/8"

(9.5mm). The base is 24" (60.9cm) by 1/2" (12.7mm) thick and the upper flange is 12" (30cm) by 3/4"

(19mm) thick. There are four gussets 1/4" (6.3mm) thick by 44" (110cm) welded to the steel pipe and

it was filled with sand. It is bolted to a concrete base that was built for another telescope. I had

to design around what was already installed in the observatory.



tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/dvaa/files/Equipment/New_Pier.jpg

----- Original Message -----

From: "lgw09" lgw@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:24 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Permanent pier for G11, perhaps out of topic





> Hi all,

>

> This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long permanent

> pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete filled.

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#36188 Feb 1 2:54 AM

Steel and concrete don't mix that great when filling the steel with

concrete.



Rainer's solution is better I believe... take a look at

clientes.netvisao.pt/jcanela/html/46.htm and check the pier...



It's a GM8... but it will be the same on a G11.



Hope it helped.



Regards,



Canela

cliente.netvisao.pt/jcanela/>



---------------



From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rainer

Sent: quinta-feira, 31 de Janeiro de 2008 22:06

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Permanent pier for G11, perhaps out of

topic







Hi Lars,



If I would built a pier like that I would not use a steel pipe all

that long.



I would make it of concrete and in conical shape and then the last

part maybe 60cm of steel pipe.



So you have rock as a base which I think is good.



I would start with 60cm round and then after 150cm finish it at about

40cm round and then the rest with a steel pipe of minimum 25cm better

30cm



best regards Rainer

>

> Hi all,

>

> This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long

permanent > pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete

filled. >

> Best

>

> Lars

>













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#36189 Feb 1 3:17 AM

Scott,



if that's the case then I think the group would be very gratefull if

you did so.



Thanks in advance



Jose Canela



---------------



From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott

Sent: quinta-feira, 31 de Janeiro de 2008 23:33

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Permanent pier for G11, perhaps out of

topic







All:



Speaking of concrete piers or steel piers - I am a licensed

structural engineer versed in steel and concrete design. I can

produce detailed design drawings to suit your needs if anyone needs

help designing a custom pier...

Scott



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com> , "Rainer" rsbfoto@...>

wrote: >

> Hi Lars,

>

> If I would built a pier like that I would not use a steel pipe all

> that long.

>

> I would make it of concrete and in conical shape and then the last

> part maybe 60cm of steel pipe.

>

> So you have rock as a base which I think is good.

>

> I would start with 60cm round and then after 150cm finish it at

about > 40cm round and then the rest with a steel pipe of minimum 25cm

better > 30cm

>

> best regards Rainer

>

>

> >

> > Hi all,

> >

> > This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> > I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long

> permanent

> > pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> > thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete

> filled.

> >

> > Best

> >

> > Lars

> >

>













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#36190 Feb 1 3:35 AM

Hi



Thanks for your answer, in fact I will start doing a 3D-model of the

G11 this weekend, perhaps next week a can supply some pdf-drawings.

I'm using PRO-engineer for the job and I will do the whole

observatory in this program. By the way is there any illustrated part

diagram for the G11 mount? I know briefly what's inside but have an

exploded view is better. The reason why a want a tall pier is that

the building area is restricted and having a dome built is even more

restricted by my wife. By using a tall pier you can sort of

walk "under" the telescope and having walk around space even if the

floor area is quit small. It will be a "garden house" that need to

look as it really fits in to the surroundings and looks "sweet"

(wife).



Best



Lars



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

wrote: >

> This is totally on topic. And even if it were a bit off, the idea

> here is not to be one of those groups where, if you dropped in a

piece > of coal, it would come out a diamond a week later.

>

> In answer to your question, one way to proceed is to call a vendor

> like ATS and ask what they would recommend. By telling them you are

> thinking of designing an observatory around their permanent pier you

> can probably get the dimensions out of them.

>

> My general thought, however, is that the pier should be over-built

and > over specified with some kind of adapter in mind. The reason being

> that you may not want to use the G11 forever. So if you designed to

> accommodate a Parmount ME and had an adapter then down the road it

> won't seem so nutty to upgrade to a Titan or an AP900, 1200, as you

> see fit and as income allows.

>

> Another way to approach the problem is that maybe you want "the

> stability of a permanent pier but maybe sometime you'd like to take

it > all out." In which case designing your observatory to accommodate a

> portable pier (ATS again, or Particle Wave Technologies, PWT) would

> work. Parallax has an interesting portable pier design that might

> also serve in a permanent mounting situation.

>

> There is another pier company that I see advertising in a small box

> add (with picture) in the back of S&T that you might contact, but I

> don't remember their name (someone here probably would).

>

> It wouldn't be a bad idea if we had some CAD drawings of the

> dimensions of a g8, g11, Titan, HGM 200, and anything else we can

> think of in order to answer these kinds of questions with great

> precision. Regrettably I'm not in a position to provide that kind

of > resource, but with over three thousand members, we might find a

> volunteer. If there are such drawings here already I've forgotten

> about them, but you should also nose around our FILES and PHOTOs

> sections, as well as LINKs. You might for example find some LINKS

to > people who have built permanent piers.

>

> Roth Ritter used to image with a G11/c11, I don't know what he's

using > these days. (google him)

>

> hope that helps

> Greg N

>

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi all,

> >

> > This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> > I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long

permanent > > pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> > thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete

filled. > >

> > Best

> >

> > Lars

> >

>



----------------------------

#36192 Feb 1 5:23 AM

Lars,



Our pier, construction seen here,



www.observatorycentral.com/index.php?showtopic=181&st=0



is about 180 cm tall. It is 300 cm diameter. The tube on our 102mm

refractor and the counterweight are often too close to the pier. The

counterweight on the 12" SCT comes even closer. In your case, t'were

me, I'd start with a diameter of 350 cm and use concrete with at least

4 full length pieces of rebar, (drilled and glued to the bedrock with

epoxy). I would get a pier extension like the metal one shown at the

above link (made by our own Rainer) for the top of the pier, so as to

afford maximum clearance for the counterweights and OTA.



Please be sure to post pictures here, and at observatory.com.



Best of Luck with your project.



Steve Durham



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@...> wrote:

>

> Hi all,

>

> This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long permanent

> pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete filled.

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>



----------------------------

#36193 Feb 1 5:58 AM

Lars,



One small point: don't make the same mistake that I did and have the

pier too wide too high up. Depending on the shape of your telescope and

imaging equipment it may hit the pier when near the zenith!



Regards

John Moore

Fleet, Hants, England

homepage.ntlworld.com/john.moore88/index.htm







----------------------------

#36194 Feb 1 6:15 AM

jcmoore_uk wrote: > One small point: don't make the same mistake that I did and have the

> pier too wide too high up. Depending on the shape of your telescope and

> imaging equipment it may hit the pier when near the zenith!





Yes! I made that mistake and won't repeat it. My next observatory will

have a 12" concrete pier topped with a 6" metal tube to support the G-11.



Mike

--



Mike Dodd

Montpelier, VA USA

astronomy.mdodd.com



----------------------------

#36195 Feb 1 8:17 AM

I also have a permanent pier. Mine was originally made for a Meade LX90 8".

I put the base adapter for the GM-8/GM-11 on it. It works fine, but it is

now slightly high.







So make sure it is not too high.







Regards







Jim Holland







From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Mike Dodd

Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 9:16 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Permanent pier for G11, perhaps out of

topic







jcmoore_uk wrote: > One small point: don't make the same mistake that I did and have the

> pier too wide too high up. Depending on the shape of your telescope and

> imaging equipment it may hit the pier when near the zenith!



Yes! I made that mistake and won't repeat it. My next observatory will

have a 12" concrete pier topped with a 6" metal tube to support the G-11.



Mike

--



Mike Dodd

Montpelier, VA USA

astronomy.mdodd.com











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#36196 Feb 1 8:47 AM

Lars,



I should mention that the pier I built is for a 8" F/12 refractor on a large GEM mount, that I also

built.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "lgw09" lgw@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:24 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Permanent pier for G11, perhaps out of topic





> Hi all,

>

> This is perhaps out of topic but have to ask:

> I'm designing a permanent observatory and if I want a long permanent

> pier let say 210cm, approx what diameter is needed (and material

> thickness)? Let say steel put into solid rock, maybe concrete filled.

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>



----------------------------

#36613 Mar 4, 2008

Certain pier designs allow one to lower and raise the pier while the

scope is mounted and in use. I was wondering if anyone has experience

with these and how it affects the pointing model.



I'd like to know what scope you're using, too, as a 5" f/6 is a whole

different ball of wax (in terms of field of view) from a C14.



thanks

Greg N



----------------------------

#39145 Aug 20, 2008

Hi All,



Looking to get a portable Pier made, and would like to get some

dimensions from someone who has done this themselves.



What size pipe would 140cm do?

What should the inner diameter be?

Size of hole for the bolts to hold the G-11?

The holes should they be 120degrees apart?

How far bellow the top should the holes be?



Would it be better to have a floating plate on top 12mm thick and then

use a MA Adapter?



Does anyone have any CAD drawings or sketches with measurements of a

pier they have made for the G-11, that they are willing to share?



Regards

Fahim



----------------------------

#39159 Aug 21, 2008

Hi Fahim,



Here are some general considerations. In designing a pier, the most

important thing to remember is that diameter is your friend. The

concept is explained at

home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm



Stiffness is proportional to diameter to the forth power. So an eight

inch diameter pier is three times as stiff as a six inch diameter

pier.



Also note that wall thickness can be very thin . diameter is more

important. The difference in stiffness between a solid cylinder and a

thin-walled pipe is surprisingly small.



The most effective portable pier design that I've seen is the Astro-

Physics. See

www.astro-physics.com/

You would not go wrong in copying their design.



Their design offers the stiffest possible geometry for the least cost

and weight . a guyed design with the tension guys adding sway

resistance and damping at little attendant cost or weight.



Clear skies,



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "fahimshariff"

fahimshariff@...> wrote: >

> Hi All,

>

> Looking to get a portable Pier made, and would like to get some

> dimensions from someone who has done this themselves.

>

> What size pipe would 140cm do?

> What should the inner diameter be?

> Size of hole for the bolts to hold the G-11?

> The holes should they be 120degrees apart?

> How far bellow the top should the holes be?

>

> Would it be better to have a floating plate on top 12mm thick and

then use a MA Adapter? >

> Does anyone have any CAD drawings or sketches with measurements of a

> pier they have made for the G-11, that they are willing to share?

>

> Regards

> Fahim

>







----------------------------

#39250 Aug 24, 2008

I just used the central bolt on my MA adapter to the pier top plate - but

under advise from an engineer friend I put three small coins under the edge

of the MA, each adjacent to one the top plate mounting bolts. He was right,

this has proved to be extremely stable even with the C14 on top - it does

not rely on the mating surfaces being flat.



Mark



2008/8/22 Rainer rsbfoto@...>

> Hi Fahim

>

> You mentioned the MA adapter and that is the part which fits on any

> surface in order to put on it the Losmandy mount

>

> Look at this image

>

> rainerehlert.com/astro/pier03.jpg

>

> The MA has a 1/2" hole in the center. I made 3 additional holes for

> 1/4" inch screws and so avoid any turning of the MA adapter on the

> plate.

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

> >

> > Dennis,

> >

> > I have seen and read this document before, a very good read.

> >

> > I would love to buy one of those piers but the shipping cost to

> > Australia would be far to expensive. I had a look and it looks like

> AP

> > sell a LM2APT adapter which is just what i need for a 6" design i am

> > considering. But there seems no adapter for the 8" version of there

> > pier. I could get a 8" one made here but the question then would be

> > how to fit the Losmandy to it? Any ideas?

> >

> >

> > Regards

> > Fahim

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com>,

> "Dennis Persyk" dpersyk@>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > Hi Fahim,

> > >

> > > Here are some general considerations. In designing a pier, the

> most

> > > important thing to remember is that diameter is your friend. The

> > > concept is explained at

> > > home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm

> > >

> > > Stiffness is proportional to diameter to the forth power. So an

> eight

> > > inch diameter pier is three times as stiff as a six inch diameter

> > > pier.

> > >

> > > Also note that wall thickness can be very thin . diameter is more

> > > important. The difference in stiffness between a solid cylinder

> and a

> > > thin-walled pipe is surprisingly small.

> > >

> > > The most effective portable pier design that I've seen is the

> Astro-

> > > Physics. See

> > > www.astro-physics.com/

> > > You would not go wrong in copying their design.

> > >

> > > Their design offers the stiffest possible geometry for the least

> cost

> > > and weight . a guyed design with the tension guys adding sway

> > > resistance and damping at little attendant cost or weight.

> > >

> > > Clear skies,

> > >

> > > Dennis Persyk

> > > Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

> > > Hampshire, IL

> > >

> > > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.comLosmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com>,

> "fahimshariff"

> > > fahimshariff@> wrote:

> > > >

> > > > Hi All,

> > > >

> > > > Looking to get a portable Pier made, and would like to get some

> > > > dimensions from someone who has done this themselves.

> > > >

> > > > What size pipe would 140cm do?

> > > > What should the inner diameter be?

> > > > Size of hole for the bolts to hold the G-11?

> > > > The holes should they be 120degrees apart?

> > > > How far bellow the top should the holes be?

> > > >

> > > > Would it be better to have a floating plate on top 12mm thick

> and

> > > then use a MA Adapter?

> > > >

> > > > Does anyone have any CAD drawings or sketches with measurements

> of a

> > > > pier they have made for the G-11, that they are willing to

> share?

> > > >

> > > > Regards

> > > > Fahim

> > > >

> > >

> >

>

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#39407 Aug 30, 2008

Hi Lars,



Try the link below on pier design.



Clear skies,



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@...> wrote:

>

> Hi all,

>

> >

> By the way, if you want to fix a steel pier down in rock solid, to

get the same (better)stability as the standard G11 tripod, what

dimensions shall I use?

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>



----------------------------

#39765 Sep 17, 2008

Hi guys



I could use some help around here!

I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

having his new house built.

I would appreciate if you could give me some hints on how to get it

dome, like how deep must I dig, footer dimensions, pier diameter and,

of course, how to set it up for a G-11 Losmandy's FHD / Meade field

tripod adapter (MA).

I have no idea how strong it has to be and how to screw the MA adapter

to the pier.



Looking forward to hearing from you... :)



Thanks

xumie







----------------------------

#39766 Sep 17, 2008

I took pictures while making my pier and assembling a SkyShed POD in

the backyard, so this might help you a bit:



www.freewebs.com/ebenson/observatory.htm



EB

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Joao" xumaxer@...> wrote:

>

> Hi guys

>

> I could use some help around here!

> I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> having his new house built.

> I would appreciate if you could give me some hints on how to get it

> dome, like how deep must I dig, footer dimensions, pier diameter and,

> of course, how to set it up for a G-11 Losmandy's FHD / Meade field

> tripod adapter (MA).

> I have no idea how strong it has to be and how to screw the MA adapter

> to the pier.

>

> Looking forward to hearing from you... :)

>

> Thanks

> xumie

>



----------------------------

#39767 Sep 17, 2008

Here is a link to how I made my pier and mounted the MA adapter.

www.helixgate.net/observatory1.html



Mike Siniscalchi

ww.helixgate.net



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Joao" xumaxer@...> wrote:

>

> Hi guys

>

> I could use some help around here!

> I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> having his new house built.

> I would appreciate if you could give me some hints on how to get it

> dome, like how deep must I dig, footer dimensions, pier diameter

and,

> of course, how to set it up for a G-11 Losmandy's FHD / Meade field

> tripod adapter (MA).

> I have no idea how strong it has to be and how to screw the MA

adapter

> to the pier.

>

> Looking forward to hearing from you... :)

>

> Thanks

> xumie

>



----------------------------

#39768 Sep 17, 2008

If you prefer not to dig a hole, here's an approach using a pad,

albeit an 6" thick one.



www.pbase.com/wjshaheen/peralta_trails_home_observatory_ii



Since most of my image capture is done remotely from the den, using

Remote Desktop, I think deck vibration is not the issue it once was.



The pier is standard 6" pipe from a local pipe supply. I had a hole

drilled and tapped in the top to accomodate the Losmandy MA, as well

as 3 smaller holes to adjust the level.



Regards.



Bill Shaheen

Gold Canyon, AZ

USA



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Joao" xumaxer@...> wrote:

>

> Hi guys

>

> I could use some help around here!

> I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> having his new house built.

> I would appreciate if you could give me some hints on how to get it

> dome, like how deep must I dig, footer dimensions, pier diameter

and,

> of course, how to set it up for a G-11 Losmandy's FHD / Meade field

> tripod adapter (MA).

> I have no idea how strong it has to be and how to screw the MA

adapter

> to the pier.

>

> Looking forward to hearing from you... :)

>

> Thanks

> xumie

>



----------------------------

#39788 Sep 17, 2008

Maybe this could help:

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm



Clear skies,

Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Joao" xumaxer@...> wrote:

>

> Hi guys

>

> I could use some help around here!

> I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> having his new house built.

> I would appreciate if you could give me some hints on how to get it

> dome, like how deep must I dig, footer dimensions, pier diameter and,

of course, how to set it up for a G-11 Losmandy's FHD / Meade field

tripod adapter (MA).

> I have no idea how strong it has to be and how to screw the MA

adapter to the pier.

>

> Looking forward to hearing from you... :)

>

> Thanks

> xumie

>



----------------------------

#39800 Sep 18, 2008

I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

>This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

>having his new house built.



I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

pictures, go to this web

URL: www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll down

to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of these

mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres in

length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been placed

over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the frost

can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted in

the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly and

is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it is great.



Clear skies!

MK



www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm







----------------------------

#39805 Sep 18, 2008

Wow! awesome!

Thanks a lot for your input.

Lots of details to look at and pay attention to.



I am deeply thankful to all of you. :D



Ciao

xumie



----------------------------

#39811 Sep 18, 2008

On the subject of pier design,



I recently acquired a 20" RC and am waiting for delivery of El Capitan

mount ;-). My existing permanent pier (set in 48" square concrete block)

is an oddball at 6" OD (aluminum), but with 1" thick walls. Now the guy

who built the original pier for me wants to simply shorten the 42" height

by one foot for desired 30" height. When I raised my concerns about

stability (dampening time specifically), he quoted a spec effectively

stating that as long as the length of the pier is not more than 6 times

the diameter, it pier will remain stable. That said, I'm having a VERY

hard time buying into that statement, and suspect that it pertains to

direct load having nothing to do with dampening times at all. I'm VERY

concerned about the stability of an 800 lb load (including

counterweights), but, I can't refute the statement either as I just

haven't got the technical expertise to address one way or another.



While I am still going to INSIST upon a 12" diameter pier, can anyone help

me with my explanation? The guy who built the pier is a very good friend

and the last thing I want to do is insult him. After all, he is doing the

work for FREE! Any suggestions?



Mark









Mark Kaye mark.kaye@...>

Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

09/18/2008 09:02 AM

Please respond to

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com





To

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

cc



Subject

Re: [Losmandy_users] backyard pier construction



















>I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

>This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

>having his new house built.



I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

pictures, go to this web

URL: www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll down

to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of these

mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres in

length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been placed

over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the frost

can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted in

the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly and

is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it is great.



Clear skies!

MK



www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#39812 Sep 18, 2008

Pier design is often discussed over on the Observatories Yahoo group.

In case this helps, one of the members has a paper that discusses

pier design:

home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm



-Joe

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> On the subject of pier design,

>

> I recently acquired a 20" RC and am waiting for delivery of El

Capitan

> mount ;-). My existing permanent pier (set in 48" square concrete

block)

> is an oddball at 6" OD (aluminum), but with 1" thick walls. Now

the guy

> who built the original pier for me wants to simply shorten the 42"

height

> by one foot for desired 30" height. When I raised my concerns

about

> stability (dampening time specifically), he quoted a spec

effectively

> stating that as long as the length of the pier is not more than 6

times

> the diameter, it pier will remain stable. That said, I'm having a

VERY

> hard time buying into that statement, and suspect that it pertains

to

> direct load having nothing to do with dampening times at all. I'm

VERY

> concerned about the stability of an 800 lb load (including

> counterweights), but, I can't refute the statement either as I just

> haven't got the technical expertise to address one way or another.

>

> While I am still going to INSIST upon a 12" diameter pier, can

anyone help

> me with my explanation? The guy who built the pier is a very good

friend

> and the last thing I want to do is insult him. After all, he is

doing the

> work for FREE! Any suggestions?

>

> Mark

>

>

>

>

> Mark Kaye mark.kaye@...>

> Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> 09/18/2008 09:02 AM

> Please respond to

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>

>

> To

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> cc

>

> Subject

> Re: [Losmandy_users] backyard pier construction

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> >I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> >This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> >having his new house built.

>

> I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

> has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

> pictures, go to this web

> URL: www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll down

> to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of these

> mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

> blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres in

> length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been

placed

> over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the

frost

> can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

> where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

> mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted in

> the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

> the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly and

> is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

> I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it is

great.

>

> Clear skies!

> MK

>

> www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#39814 Sep 18, 2008

Hi Mark



Damping time? On a pier holding your calibre of instrumentation?

Really?



Please take a look at

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm



May I suggest that you build the pier to the this spec:

The pier shall deflect less than 0.5 arc second when a lateral force

of 5 pounds is applied to the top of the pier.



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> On the subject of pier design,

Any suggestions?

>

> Mark

>



----------------------------

#39816 Sep 18, 2008

Fascinating wood constructions. My G11 uses Losmandy tripod and sits on a

plank platform on top of my (mandatory) fire water tank made of Nylon or

some such.







Beginning to suspect that some of my troubles are caused by sagging of the

setup. I, of course, always so all data (PemPro now) acquisition and imaging

remotely, minus my hefty persona on the platform. Still, I may have to do

something about the setup (3 years old but needing a fix).







Great pictures! Is the kid groomed to be the Next Generation Astronomer?







LN







-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Mark Kaye

Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 6:02 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] backyard pier construction







>I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

>This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

>having his new house built.



I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

pictures, go to this web

URL: www3. www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm>

sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll down

to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of these

mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres in

length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been placed

over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the frost

can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted in

the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly and

is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it is great.



Clear skies!

MK



www3. www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm>

sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#39826 Sep 19, 2008

I am not sure if this is of any relevance to the ongoing discussion, but

here I have some pictures and a description of my concrete pier. It is

extremely sturdy.



Regards, gimmi



icehome.in.cnr.it/icefalls/Astro/Equipment/AstroPier.htm









geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=2103530/grpspId=1705082806/msgId

=39812/stime=1221764301/nc1=1/nc2=2/nc3=3>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#39827 Sep 19, 2008

gimmi-recommend wrapping the cement in a thermal insulating material to avoid a heat plume. Otherwise excellent and what a beautiful view! Charles

-------------- Original message from Gimmi Ratto gimmi@...>: --------------



I am not sure if this is of any relevance to the ongoing discussion, but

here I have some pictures and a description of my concrete pier. It is

extremely sturdy.



Regards, gimmi



icehome.in.cnr.it/icefalls/Astro/Equipment/AstroPier.htm







geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=2103530/grpspId=1705082806/msgId

=39812/stime=1221764301/nc1=1/nc2=2/nc3=3>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#39830 Sep 19, 2008

Mark,



Dampening times can be reduced in a number of ways, but the dampening

times should not be the concern. With a properly designed pier, the

rigidity is such that the dampening times do not come into play.

Now, Shortening the existing 6" pier does stiffen it up quite a bit,

but not as much as having a 10" or larger pier, so you are still

better off moving up to a 10" or larger pier. Beyond the rigidity of

the larger diameter pier, you need to consider the mounting

plate/pier adapter for the AP 3600 mount.



You would have to use a 12" pier adapter to mount the AP 3600 mount

to your pier. As it is now with the 6" OD pier, most of the pier

adapter will be over hanging the pier itself and will not be properly

supported (3" of overhang per side). This could possibly cause

flexure in the pier adapter itself depending on the material

(aluminum or steel) and the thickness. Moving up to a larger

diameter pier such as a 10" or 12" diameter pier, you support the

pier adapter more fully ( in case of the 10" pier you will have 1"

overhang per side and in case of 12" pier, none) and thus eliminating

the possibility of flexures in the pier adapter.



If you like, you can contact me offline. I can run FEA simulations

and provide you hard data over the weekend.



Shahin







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> On the subject of pier design,

>

> I recently acquired a 20" RC and am waiting for delivery of El

Capitan

> mount ;-). My existing permanent pier (set in 48" square concrete

block)

> is an oddball at 6" OD (aluminum), but with 1" thick walls. Now

the guy

> who built the original pier for me wants to simply shorten the 42"

height

> by one foot for desired 30" height. When I raised my concerns

about

> stability (dampening time specifically), he quoted a spec

effectively

> stating that as long as the length of the pier is not more than 6

times

> the diameter, it pier will remain stable. That said, I'm having a

VERY

> hard time buying into that statement, and suspect that it pertains

to

> direct load having nothing to do with dampening times at all. I'm

VERY

> concerned about the stability of an 800 lb load (including

> counterweights), but, I can't refute the statement either as I just

> haven't got the technical expertise to address one way or another.

>

> While I am still going to INSIST upon a 12" diameter pier, can

anyone help

> me with my explanation? The guy who built the pier is a very good

friend

> and the last thing I want to do is insult him. After all, he is

doing the

> work for FREE! Any suggestions?

>

> Mark

>

>

>

>

> Mark Kaye mark.kaye@...>

> Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> 09/18/2008 09:02 AM

> Please respond to

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>

>

> To

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> cc

>

> Subject

> Re: [Losmandy_users] backyard pier construction

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> >I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> >This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> >having his new house built.

>

> I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

> has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

> pictures, go to this web

> URL: www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll down

> to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of these

> mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

> blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres in

> length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been

placed

> over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the

frost

> can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

> where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

> mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted in

> the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

> the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly and

> is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

> I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it is

great.

>

> Clear skies!

> MK

>

> www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#39831 Sep 19, 2008

I upgraded my 6 inch steel pier to 10 inch concrete as the 6 inch did

not cope with my G11/C14 at all well, though it handled a G11/C9.25 +

4" Apo just fine. The 10" concrete is proving very solid with the C14.



You can see how I did it here:

wilmslowastro.nfshost.com/tips/observatory.htm



Regards

Mark



----------------------------

#39832 Sep 19, 2008

Shahin,



I appreciate your input, but it's not helping me with my original

question. Let me rephrase:



"I need hard data to prove that a 30" high X 6" diameter pier is

insufficient to carry an 800 lb imaging load."



Based on what you've already said, while the 6" diameter pier might be a

little more difficult to mate with the much bigger base of a 3600 mount,

it would still work. I need to show that the 6" diameter pier would

actually cause performance problems carrying an 800 lb imaging load i.e.,

in technical terms, why the 12" would be significantly more stable, and

therefore necessary.



Also, you seem to have dismissed the dampening time issue, and I believe

that is a mistake. Dampening times increase as the diameter of a pier

decreases. That much I know, but, I'm looking for specifics, (by

diameter), that would explain/define where lateral stability (dampening

control) is lost at 30" high with an 800 lb load.



Your input is valued here, so please continue if you can help.



Many thanks again!



Mark







"szareh" szareh@...>

Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

09/19/2008 10:14 AM

Please respond to

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com





To

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

cc



Subject

[Losmandy_users] Re: backyard pier construction



















Mark,



Dampening times can be reduced in a number of ways, but the dampening

times should not be the concern. With a properly designed pier, the

rigidity is such that the dampening times do not come into play.

Now, Shortening the existing 6" pier does stiffen it up quite a bit,

but not as much as having a 10" or larger pier, so you are still

better off moving up to a 10" or larger pier. Beyond the rigidity of

the larger diameter pier, you need to consider the mounting

plate/pier adapter for the AP 3600 mount.



You would have to use a 12" pier adapter to mount the AP 3600 mount

to your pier. As it is now with the 6" OD pier, most of the pier

adapter will be over hanging the pier itself and will not be properly

supported (3" of overhang per side). This could possibly cause

flexure in the pier adapter itself depending on the material

(aluminum or steel) and the thickness. Moving up to a larger

diameter pier such as a 10" or 12" diameter pier, you support the

pier adapter more fully ( in case of the 10" pier you will have 1"

overhang per side and in case of 12" pier, none) and thus eliminating

the possibility of flexures in the pier adapter.



If you like, you can contact me offline. I can run FEA simulations

and provide you hard data over the weekend.



Shahin

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> On the subject of pier design,

>

> I recently acquired a 20" RC and am waiting for delivery of El

Capitan

> mount ;-). My existing permanent pier (set in 48" square concrete

block)

> is an oddball at 6" OD (aluminum), but with 1" thick walls. Now

the guy

> who built the original pier for me wants to simply shorten the 42"

height

> by one foot for desired 30" height. When I raised my concerns

about

> stability (dampening time specifically), he quoted a spec

effectively

> stating that as long as the length of the pier is not more than 6

times

> the diameter, it pier will remain stable. That said, I'm having a

VERY

> hard time buying into that statement, and suspect that it pertains

to

> direct load having nothing to do with dampening times at all. I'm

VERY

> concerned about the stability of an 800 lb load (including

> counterweights), but, I can't refute the statement either as I just

> haven't got the technical expertise to address one way or another.

>

> While I am still going to INSIST upon a 12" diameter pier, can

anyone help

> me with my explanation? The guy who built the pier is a very good

friend

> and the last thing I want to do is insult him. After all, he is

doing the

> work for FREE! Any suggestions?

>

> Mark

>

>

>

>

> Mark Kaye mark.kaye@...>

> Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> 09/18/2008 09:02 AM

> Please respond to

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>

>

> To

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> cc

>

> Subject

> Re: [Losmandy_users] backyard pier construction

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> >I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> >This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where he's

> >having his new house built.

>

> I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

> has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

> pictures, go to this web

> URL: www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll down

> to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of these

> mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

> blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres in

> length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been

placed

> over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the

frost

> can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

> where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

> mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted in

> the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

> the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly and

> is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

> I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it is

great.

>

> Clear skies!

> MK

>

> www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#39836 Sep 19, 2008

Mark,



I am not dismissing the dampening times, rather saying, dampening

times would not be an issue if a properly constructed pier is used

for the given equipment and intended usage. Basically, the increased

diameter and to some extent the mass (comes into play in form of

inertia when the pier is bumped into) of the larger diameter pier,

would be rigid enough to reduce flexure/deflection. If the

deflection is less, the dampening times will be less as well. Of

course there are other things to consider as well, such as the

resonance of the pier, but often this is not an issue for a properly

designed pier.



Incidentally, one can use tension cables, internal bracing, external

bracing (large heavy gussets) or a combination of these methods to

reduce flexure and dampening times, but again this is not my

suggestion in your case with the 6" pier. My suggestion is to move

up to a larger diameter pier, at the minimum 10" and preferably

steel, not aluminum.



As I wrote, I can run simulations and provide you with hard data in

favor of the larger diameter pier. I can do this over the weekend

and supply the data. Please contact me offline so that I can make

sure I have all the information needed before running the simulations

and then know where to email the data.



Shahin



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> Shahin,

>

> I appreciate your input, but it's not helping me with my original

> question. Let me rephrase:

>

> "I need hard data to prove that a 30" high X 6" diameter pier is

> insufficient to carry an 800 lb imaging load."

>

> Based on what you've already said, while the 6" diameter pier might

be a

> little more difficult to mate with the much bigger base of a 3600

mount,

> it would still work. I need to show that the 6" diameter pier

would

> actually cause performance problems carrying an 800 lb imaging load

i.e.,

> in technical terms, why the 12" would be significantly more stable,

and

> therefore necessary.

>

> Also, you seem to have dismissed the dampening time issue, and I

believe

> that is a mistake. Dampening times increase as the diameter of a

pier

> decreases. That much I know, but, I'm looking for specifics, (by

> diameter), that would explain/define where lateral stability

(dampening

> control) is lost at 30" high with an 800 lb load.

>

> Your input is valued here, so please continue if you can help.

>

> Many thanks again!

>

> Mark

>

>

>

> "szareh" szareh@...>

> Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> 09/19/2008 10:14 AM

> Please respond to

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>

>

> To

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> cc

>

> Subject

> [Losmandy_users] Re: backyard pier construction

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Mark,

>

> Dampening times can be reduced in a number of ways, but the

dampening

> times should not be the concern. With a properly designed pier, the

> rigidity is such that the dampening times do not come into play.

> Now, Shortening the existing 6" pier does stiffen it up quite a

bit,

> but not as much as having a 10" or larger pier, so you are still

> better off moving up to a 10" or larger pier. Beyond the rigidity

of

> the larger diameter pier, you need to consider the mounting

> plate/pier adapter for the AP 3600 mount.

>

> You would have to use a 12" pier adapter to mount the AP 3600 mount

> to your pier. As it is now with the 6" OD pier, most of the pier

> adapter will be over hanging the pier itself and will not be

properly

> supported (3" of overhang per side). This could possibly cause

> flexure in the pier adapter itself depending on the material

> (aluminum or steel) and the thickness. Moving up to a larger

> diameter pier such as a 10" or 12" diameter pier, you support the

> pier adapter more fully ( in case of the 10" pier you will have 1"

> overhang per side and in case of 12" pier, none) and thus

eliminating

> the possibility of flexures in the pier adapter.

>

> If you like, you can contact me offline. I can run FEA simulations

> and provide you hard data over the weekend.

>

> Shahin

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@ wrote:

> >

> > On the subject of pier design,

> >

> > I recently acquired a 20" RC and am waiting for delivery of El

> Capitan

> > mount ;-). My existing permanent pier (set in 48" square concrete

> block)

> > is an oddball at 6" OD (aluminum), but with 1" thick walls. Now

> the guy

> > who built the original pier for me wants to simply shorten the

42"

> height

> > by one foot for desired 30" height. When I raised my concerns

> about

> > stability (dampening time specifically), he quoted a spec

> effectively

> > stating that as long as the length of the pier is not more than 6

> times

> > the diameter, it pier will remain stable. That said, I'm having a

> VERY

> > hard time buying into that statement, and suspect that it

pertains

> to

> > direct load having nothing to do with dampening times at all. I'm

> VERY

> > concerned about the stability of an 800 lb load (including

> > counterweights), but, I can't refute the statement either as I

just

> > haven't got the technical expertise to address one way or

another.

> >

> > While I am still going to INSIST upon a 12" diameter pier, can

> anyone help

> > me with my explanation? The guy who built the pier is a very good

> friend

> > and the last thing I want to do is insult him. After all, he is

> doing the

> > work for FREE! Any suggestions?

> >

> > Mark

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Mark Kaye mark.kaye@>

> > Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > 09/18/2008 09:02 AM

> > Please respond to

> > Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> >

> >

> > To

> > Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > cc

> >

> > Subject

> > Re: [Losmandy_users] backyard pier construction

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > >I am about to build a pier for my C11 and some times C11+80FD.

> > >This pier will be set up on my brother in law's backyard where

he's

> > >having his new house built.

> >

> > I have built several wooden piers for back yard use and this idea

> > has been widely copied and holds scopes as large as a C14. For

> > pictures, go to this web

> > URL: www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/equip.htm> and scroll

down

> > to the bottom. In order to get below the frost line, both of

these

> > mounts have as much pole below the ground as there is above. The

> > blue pier is additionally anchored by two iron rods three metres

in

> > length hammered into the ground around which the pier has been

> placed

> > over. I am not sure if that was necessary, but in Alberta, the

> frost

> > can get a long way into the ground. I am not sure of many places

> > where you could count on that depth of soil in any case. These

> > mounts are sturdy and stand the test of time. Both were planted

in

> > the early 90s and are still working today. In my opinion, wood is

> > the best material there is for a pier. Nothing damps as quickly

and

> > is as resistant to knocks and ringing as a wooden pier.

> > I used a telephone pole under our G11 in our Observatory and it

is

> great.

> >

> > Clear skies!

> > MK

> >

> > www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#39853 Sep 20, 2008

Would this be of help with your friend?



We have the case of a beam with one end fixed, load at the other

end: "Inverted pendulum" in lay terms.....

Maximum angular deflection unsupported end is proportional to:



a) 1/(D^4) where D is the od

b) l^2 where l is the length



By increasing D from 6 inches to 12 inches, the deflection is reduced

by a factor of 18.

By decreasing length from 42 inches to 30 inches, the deflection is

reduced by a factor of about 2



I can understand your concern with damping time. Insubstantial,

wobbly piers have damping times measured in seconds. The scope sways

back and forth, back and forth, . And the stars look like footballs.



In a properly designed mount the sway's angular deflection (pointing

error causing star trailing) is designed to be less than 0.5 arc

second for a 5 pound lateral force. For your 20" RC I'd suggest 0.25

arc second if your local seeing supports it. Thus when you bang the

pier, it doesn't sway so much as it rings. The ringing modes are

merely tiny acoustic frequency vibrations that are not felt by the

scope.



Hope this helps. You really want to have a solid pier. The most

difficult design aspect will be the pier-to-ground interface. Take

care with that. Also check that the balance arm and associated

mount/scope hardware clears the pier at all likely RA/Dec positions.

This becomes problematic for the AP1200 with pier diameters exceeding

8 inches. I'm not familiar with your mount.



Clear skies,



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> > While I am still going to INSIST upon a 12" diameter pier, can

anyone help me with my explanation? The guy who built the pier is a

very good friend and the last thing I want to do is insult him.

After all, he is doing the work for FREE! Any suggestions?

>

> Mark



----------------------------

#40160 Oct 6, 2008

Hi all,



I have added three new photos in album "Abbel" last page. I'm designing

a new permanent pier and needs your advise if you feel that the

clearance is enough when the scope is pointing where it does on the

photos. It's a cad model and the clearance is about 57mm from the

filter wheel to the pier surface. This is a sort of worst case as the

filter wheel can be turned to give some more space. The pier diameter

is about 193mm in diameter, it's a sort of "in stock" tube and by that

much sheaper. I'm about to handle it over to the workshop tomorrow and

need to sure that the diameter on the top of the pier is not to big.



Best



Lars



----------------------------

#40176 Oct 7, 2008

Hello Lars,



I want to congratulate you on the thoroughness of your design. If you

are using steel with a modulus of the order of 3.0E^7 PSI (sorry .

I'm not a metric guy) you should have adequate resistance to sway for

imaging purposes. (Ref the link below.)



Much of the deflection will occur at the pier-to-base interface. I

don't know how to model that geometry, so I tend to over design the

base flange thickness and diameter, and make the gussets more nearly

like equilateral triangles.



Good luck . I hope to see some astro images real soon!



Clear skies,



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@...> wrote:

>

> Hi all,

>

> I have added three new photos in album "Abbel" last page. I'm

designing a new permanent pier and needs your advise if you feel

that the clearance is enough when the scope is pointing where it

does on the photos. It's a cad model and the clearance is about 57mm

from the filter wheel to the pier surface. This is a sort of worst

case as the filter wheel can be turned to give some more space. The

pier diameter is about 193mm in diameter, it's a sort of "in stock"

tube and by that much sheaper. I'm about to handle it over to the

workshop tomorrow and

> need to sure that the diameter on the top of the pier is not to big.

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>



----------------------------

#40177 Oct 7, 2008

Dennis,



I've read your paper and searched Igloo pages, but can't find any pier

photos :-(. Where is the "Abbel" file?



Many thanks!



Mark







"Dennis Persyk" dpersyk@...>

Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

10/07/2008 12:08 PM

Please respond to

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com





To

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

cc



Subject

[Losmandy_users] Re: 3 new photos "on the design of a permanent pier"



















Hello Lars,



I want to congratulate you on the thoroughness of your design. If you

are using steel with a modulus of the order of 3.0E^7 PSI (sorry .

I'm not a metric guy) you should have adequate resistance to sway for

imaging purposes. (Ref the link below.)



Much of the deflection will occur at the pier-to-base interface. I

don't know how to model that geometry, so I tend to over design the

base flange thickness and diameter, and make the gussets more nearly

like equilateral triangles.



Good luck . I hope to see some astro images real soon!



Clear skies,



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@...> wrote:

>

> Hi all,

>

> I have added three new photos in album "Abbel" last page. I'm

designing a new permanent pier and needs your advise if you feel

that the clearance is enough when the scope is pointing where it

does on the photos. It's a cad model and the clearance is about 57mm

from the filter wheel to the pier surface. This is a sort of worst

case as the filter wheel can be turned to give some more space. The

pier diameter is about 193mm in diameter, it's a sort of "in stock"

tube and by that much sheaper. I'm about to handle it over to the

workshop tomorrow and

> need to sure that the diameter on the top of the pier is not to big.

>

> Best

>

> Lars

>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#40178 Oct 7, 2008

Lars' photos are here:

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/photos/album/1735863160/p

ic/list

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@... wrote:

>

> Dennis,

>

> I've read your paper and searched Igloo pages, but can't find any

pier photos :-(. Where is the "Abbel" file?

>

> Many thanks!

>

> Mark

>

>

>

> "Dennis Persyk" dpersyk@...>

> Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> 10/07/2008 12:08 PM

> Please respond to

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>

>

> To

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> cc

>

> Subject

> [Losmandy_users] Re: 3 new photos "on the design of a permanent

pier"

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hello Lars,

>

> I want to congratulate you on the thoroughness of your design. If

you

> are using steel with a modulus of the order of 3.0E^7 PSI (sorry

.."

> I'm not a metric guy) you should have adequate resistance to sway

for

> imaging purposes. (Ref the link below.)

>

> Much of the deflection will occur at the pier-to-base interface. I

> don't know how to model that geometry, so I tend to over design the

> base flange thickness and diameter, and make the gussets more

nearly

> like equilateral triangles.

>

> Good luck .." I hope to see some astro images real soon!

>

> Clear skies,

>

> Dennis Persyk

> Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

> Hampshire, IL

> Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "lgw09" lgw@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi all,

> >

> > I have added three new photos in album "Abbel" last page. I'm

> designing a new permanent pier and needs your advise if you feel

> that the clearance is enough when the scope is pointing where it

> does on the photos. It's a cad model and the clearance is about

57mm

> from the filter wheel to the pier surface. This is a sort of worst

> case as the filter wheel can be turned to give some more space. The

> pier diameter is about 193mm in diameter, it's a sort of "in stock"

> tube and by that much sheaper. I'm about to handle it over to the

> workshop tomorrow and

> > need to sure that the diameter on the top of the pier is not to

big.

> >

> > Best

> >

> > Lars

> >

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#40807 Dec 13, 2008

Hi,



I'm in the process of building a pier for my G11, and am after advice on the size of the foundation.. There are several complicating factors which are going to make this an interesting project:



*. The pier itself is going to be quite tall, as the foundation will be ~1m below a wooden deck that the pier will rise through.. That means that I'm probably looking at 2m of pier above ground.



*. I'm going to have to dig the hole from under the deck, which is also going to make getting the concrete in a challenge as well



*. My G11 carries a reasonable load - a 4" and a 6" refractor.



*. I only got permission to insert a pier in the deck if it can double as an umbrella stand for a large cantilever sun umbrella.. I've figured out how I'll attach it to the pier, but am concerned about the leverage it will extert on the foundation



I'm thinking that I'll use a 6" or larger steel pipe as the pier itself, and fill it with concrete - my big question is how big is the foundation going to need to be to support it all, as I only really have one chance to get this right.



The ground is clay if that's any help, and I'm hoping that there is no limitation to how deep I can dig.. I'm thinking that I'll have to go at least 1m, but would be interested in advice from anyone that's done this, and what diameter foundation you have.



Cheers & thanks,

Rod Mckay

Christchurch

New Zealand





Start your day with Yahoo!7 and win a Sony Bravia TV. Enter now au.docs.yahoo.com/homepageset/?p1=other&p2=au&p3=tagline



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#40810 Dec 13, 2008

* I only got permission to insert a pier in the deck if it can double as an umbrella stand for a large cantilever sun umbrella. I've figured out how I'll attach it to the pier, but am concerned about the leverage it will extert on the foundation



Hi Rod,



Same situation here. Mine must double as a stand for a picnik table.



I'm thinking that I'll use a 6" or larger steel pipe as the pier itself, and fill it with concrete - my big question is how big is the foundation going to need to be to support it all, as I only really have one chance to get this right.



Two thoughts here. The rough rule of thumb for a pier is that it be at least the diameter of the scope used. With your two scopes together, that muddles the equasion, but your G-11 may certainly have a larger scope on it in the future. If money is available, I'd make it a 10-inch pier at least. There is no such thing as too big for a telescope mount.



Also, I would avoid filling a pipe pier with concrete. That will only make it ring like a bell when struck by something. Fill the pier with dry coarse sand. That will damp out vibrations better than concrete

The ground is clay if that's any help, and I'm hoping that there is no limitation to how deep I can dig. I'm thinking that I'll have to go at least 1m, but would be interested in advice from anyone that's done this, and what diameter foundation you have.



I am no structural engineer, but I would be comfortable with a 3-foot deep, 3-foot diameter concrete foundation holding the pier.



Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

reeves10@... San Antonio, Texas

www.robertreeves.com









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----------------------------

#40813 Dec 13, 2008

It needs to be 3'x3'x3' a cubic yard. concrete is really cheap compared to the amount of money we spend on our equipment. You can't ad just little if its not stable. I've bee in construction for thrity- five years. Do it right the first time, it's cheaper.

Gil



-------------- Original message --------------

From: "Robert Reeves" reeves10@...>





* I only got permission to insert a pier in the deck if it can double as an umbrella stand for a large cantilever sun umbrella. I've figured out how I'll attach it to the pier, but am concerned about the leverage it will extert on the foundation



Hi Rod,



Same situation here. Mine must double as a stand for a picnik table.



I'm thinking that I'll use a 6" or larger steel pipe as the pier itself, and fill it with concrete - my big question is how big is the foundation going to need to be to support it all, as I only really have one chance to get this right.



Two thoughts here. The rough rule of thumb for a pier is that it be at least the diameter of the scope used. With your two scopes together, that muddles the equasion, but your G-11 may certainly have a larger scope on it in the future. If money is available, I'd make it a 10-inch pier at least. There is no such thing as too big for a telescope mount.



Also, I would avoid filling a pipe pier with concrete. That will only make it ring like a bell when struck by something. Fill the pier with dry coarse sand. That will damp out vibrations better than concrete

The ground is clay if that's any help, and I'm hoping that there is no limitation to how deep I can dig. I'm thinking that I'll have to go at least 1m, but would be interested in advice from anyone that's done this, and what diameter foundation you have.



I am no structural engineer, but I would be comfortable with a 3-foot deep, 3-foot diameter concrete foundation holding the pier.



Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

reeves10@... San Antonio, Texas

www.robertreeves.com



Recent Activity

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1846 - Release Date: 12/12/2008 6:59 PM



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#40815 Dec 13, 2008

Hi,



Here is an example of a tall pier holding a G11 on top



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/cons/Este-Oeste-15.jpg



3feet deep in the ground and total 14feet tall until the lower part of

the anchors for the G11s on top



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/cons/Este-Oeste-14.jpg



and here the installed G11s



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/cons/OReal14-06.jpg



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/cons/OReal14-07.jpg



and here the architectural drawings



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/cons/ObservatorioReal14a.jpg



regards Rainer







>

>

>

>

> * I only got permission to insert a pier in the deck if it can

double as an umbrella stand for a large cantilever sun umbrella. I've

figured out how I'll attach it to the pier, but am concerned about the

leverage it will extert on the foundation >

> Hi Rod,

>

> Same situation here. Mine must double as a stand for a picnik table.

>

> I'm thinking that I'll use a 6" or larger steel pipe as the pier

itself, and fill it with concrete - my big question is how big is the

foundation going to need to be to support it all, as I only really

have one chance to get this right. >

> Two thoughts here. The rough rule of thumb for a pier is that it

be at least the diameter of the scope used. With your two scopes

together, that muddles the equasion, but your G-11 may certainly have

a larger scope on it in the future. If money is available, I'd make

it a 10-inch pier at least. There is no such thing as too big for a

telescope mount. >

> Also, I would avoid filling a pipe pier with concrete. That will

only make it ring like a bell when struck by something. Fill the pier

with dry coarse sand. That will damp out vibrations better than concrete > The ground is clay if that's any help, and I'm hoping that there

is no limitation to how deep I can dig. I'm thinking that I'll have

to go at least 1m, but would be interested in advice from anyone

that's done this, and what diameter foundation you have. >

> I am no structural engineer, but I would be comfortable with a

3-foot deep, 3-foot diameter concrete foundation holding the pier. >

> Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

> reeves10@... San Antonio, Texas

> www.robertreeves.com

>

>

>

>

> Recent Activity

> a.. 8New Members

> b.. 6New Photos

> c.. 1New Files

> Visit Your Group

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>

> What's the word on

>

> fashion and style?

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>

> Guides, news,

>

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>

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>

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>

> help you stay fit.

> .

>

>

>

>

--------------- >

>

>

> No virus found in this incoming message.

> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1846 - Release Date:

12/12/2008 6:59 PM >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#40817 Dec 13, 2008

Thanks Gil & Rainer.



I spent a couple of hours tunneling under the deck this morning and now have a hole that's ~ 400mm x 400mm x 800mm deep.. The idea was to see what the soil is like at that depth, and to make sure I'm not going to run into any pipes, roots, or other surprises.. It was also a bit of an experiment to see how easy it's going to be to dig in a very confined space, and the answer is NOT EASY.. It's hard to dig from a sitting position, and I lost count of the number of times I hit my head.



From what you're saying I'm close to deep enough - just need to make it bigger.. I did the math on the number of 40kg bags of cement I'd need for a 1m3 hole, and the answer is lots!. At ~ 0.02 m3 per 40kg bag that's 50 bags, or 2,000kg of concrete.. I'm thinking I might not go quite that big, but will certainly go bigger than I have currently.



I get a bit of a hard time at home for some of my construction projects, which tend to be over engineered.. Glad to hear that I'm hopefully not going over the top again ;-)



Cheers,

Rod







---------------

From: "Gjanek@..." Gjanek@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, 14 December, 2008 1:01:17 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier foundation advice





It needs to be 3'x3'x3' a cubic yard. concrete is really cheap compared to the amount of money we spend on our equipment. You can't ad just little if its not stable. I've bee in construction for thrity- five years. Do it right the first time, it's cheaper.

Gil



------------ -- Original message ------------ --

From: "Robert Reeves" reeves10@satx. rr.com>



* I only got permission to insert a pier in the deck if it can double as an umbrella stand for a large cantilever sun umbrella. I've figured out how I'll attach it to the pier, but am concerned about the leverage it will extert on the foundation



Hi Rod,



Same situation here. Mine must double as a stand for a picnik table.



I'm thinking that I'll use a 6" or larger steel pipe as the pier itself, and fill it with concrete - my big question is how big is the foundation going to need to be to support it all, as I only really have one chance to get this right.



Two thoughts here. The rough rule of thumb for a pier is that it be at least the diameter of the scope used. With your two scopes together, that muddles the equasion, but your G-11 may certainly have a larger scope on it in the future. If money is available, I'd make it a 10-inch pier at least. There is no such thing as too big for a telescope mount.



Also, I would avoid filling a pipe pier with concrete. That will only make it ring like a bell when struck by something. Fill the pier with dry coarse sand. That will damp out vibrations better than concrete

The ground is clay if that's any help, and I'm hoping that there is no limitation to how deep I can dig. I'm thinking that I'll have to go at least 1m, but would be interested in advice from anyone that's done this, and what diameter foundation you have.



I am no structural engineer, but I would be comfortable with a 3-foot deep, 3-foot diameter concrete foundation holding the pier.



Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

reeves10@satx. rr.com San Antonio, Texas

www.robertreeves. com



Recent Activity

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Checked by AVG - www.avg com

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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----------------------------

#40820 Dec 13, 2008

I get a bit of a hard time at home for some of my construction projects, which tend to be over engineered. Glad to hear that I'm hopefully not going over the top again ;-)



Cheers,

Rod







There is no such thing as an over engineered telescope mount.



Keep digging!



Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

reeves10@... San Antonio, Texas

www.robertreeves.com





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#40823 Dec 13, 2008

Thanks!. Have just spent another hour and a bit under the deck and have got to the point where I think I'll leave it - barring an unexpected fit of enthusiasm during the week or over Xmas... I've made the general hole bigger and a bit deeper, and have bevelled back the sides so that the bottom of the hole is about 50% bigger than the top.. I'm thinking that I'll also make a collar around it above ground, as being below a deck it's not going to be where anyone might trip on it.



To answer Floyd's question - it occasionally freezes where I live in Christchuch, but pretty much only on the surface of the ground, so I won't have the problem you suggest.. I might however have the opposite problem, as during the summer the ground dries out significantly, and the clay can crack.. However given that we're headed into summer in NZ at the moment, and the ground is shaded by the deck and currently still moist, I'm hopeful that I won't have this problem either.



Arrgggghhh!.. Just read the post from Dennis and it looks like I'm in for more digging }:-s



Thanks for the excellent advice everyone.



Cheers,

Rod







---------------

From: Robert Reeves reeves10@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, 14 December, 2008 3:00:13 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier foundation advice









I get a bit of a hard time at home for some of my construction projects, which tend to be over engineered. Glad to hear that I'm hopefully not going over the top again ;-)



Cheers,

Rod



There is no such thing as an over engineered telescope mount.



Keep digging!



Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

reeves10@satx. rr.com San Antonio, Texas

www.robertreeves. com



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









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----------------------------

#40825 Dec 14, 2008

Hi Rod



In my days of amateur radio, when we were installing winch up masts we

used to make the bottom of the hole bigger than the top (you are doing

this) and also we used to drive old bits of scaffold pole into the

sides at a downward angle, plus a few into the bottom, this will

effectivly increase the foundation area, just make sure to leave as

much as is possible in contact with the concrete, try to use aluminium

poles as these will not corrode.



If memory serves we used to dig a 1m square hole which was for a 60ft

tower.



Regards Badger



s--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Rod Mckay rodnscope@...> wrote: >

> Thanks!.. Have just spent another hour and a bit under the deck and

have got to the point where I think I'll leave it - barring an

unexpected fit of enthusiasm during the week or over Xmas..... I've

made the general hole bigger and a bit deeper, and have bevelled back

the sides so that the bottom of the hole is about 50% bigger than the

top... I'm thinking that I'll also make a collar around it above

ground, as being below a deck it's not going to be where anyone might

trip on it. >

> To answer Floyd's question - it occasionally freezes where I live in

Christchuch, but pretty much only on the surface of the ground, so I

won't have the problem you suggest... I might however have the

opposite problem, as during the summer the ground dries out

significantly, and the clay can crack... However given that we're

headed into summer in NZ at the moment, and the ground is shaded by

the deck and currently still moist, I'm hopeful that I won't have this

problem either. >

> Arrgggghhh!.... Just read the post from Dennis and it looks like I'm

in for more digging }:-s >

> Thanks for the excellent advice everyone.

>

> Cheers,

> Rod

>

>

>

---------------

> From: Robert Reeves reeves10@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Sunday, 14 December, 2008 3:00:13 PM

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier foundation advice

>

>

>

>

> I get a bit of a hard time at home for some of my construction

projects, which tend to be over engineered. Glad to hear that I'm

hopefully not going over the top again ;-) >

> Cheers,

> Rod

>

> There is no such thing as an over engineered telescope mount.

>

> Keep digging!

>

> Robert Reeves +29.484 98.440

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----------------------------

#42109 Mar 13, 2009

Hello all

I just purchased a used G11 with Gemini and will not see it until next week when I pick it up. In the meantime I need to put an adapter on my pier to hold the G11.

My question is...what is the height of the G11 from the base of the mount to the saddle ?

This will help me plan the pier height so I can clear the walls of my obs.



Thanks all. Look forward to being a proud G11 owner.

Cheers

Lynn Hilborn (Mr)

Whistle Stop Obs

44N78W



----------------------------

#42110 Mar 13, 2009

13 3/4 inches from the base of the mount to the center of the knob locking the saddle plate.

.

Dick Martin

--- On Fri, 3/13/09, lynnhilborn lynnhilborn@...> wrote:





From: lynnhilborn lynnhilborn@...>

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier Mounting...need height of G11 mount

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Date: Friday, March 13, 2009, 6:49 AM













Hello all

I just purchased a used G11 with Gemini and will not see it until next week when I pick it up. In the meantime I need to put an adapter on my pier to hold the G11.

My question is...what is the height of the G11 from the base of the mount to the saddle ?

This will help me plan the pier height so I can clear the walls of my obs.



Thanks all. Look forward to being a proud G11 owner.

Cheers

Lynn Hilborn (Mr)

Whistle Stop Obs

44N78W







































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#42111 Mar 13, 2009

-Thanks, Dick. Your comment was timely, just got it as I was grabbing a tape measure and heading off to my local welder. Perfect.

Thanks

Lynn



-- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Dick Martin deepskyguy95@...> wrote: >

> 13 3/4 inches from the base of the mount to the center of the knob locking the saddle plate.

> .

> Dick Martin

>

> --- On Fri, 3/13/09, lynnhilborn lynnhilborn@...> wrote:

>

>

> From: lynnhilborn lynnhilborn@...>

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier Mounting...need height of G11 mount

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Date: Friday, March 13, 2009, 6:49 AM

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hello all

> I just purchased a used G11 with Gemini and will not see it until next week when I pick it up. In the meantime I need to put an adapter on my pier to hold the G11.

> My question is...what is the height of the G11 from the base of the mount to the saddle ?

> This will help me plan the pier height so I can clear the walls of my obs.

>

> Thanks all. Look forward to being a proud G11 owner.

> Cheers

> Lynn Hilborn (Mr)

> Whistle Stop Obs

> 44N78W

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#42112 Mar 13, 2009

-Hi Dick

Sorry to be a bother but I want to get these measurements correct...I have a 6" pipe collar (pier extender I guess) that will be welded to the flate plate top of my pier. Given that the G11 drops into that 6" collar does that take the saddle plate knob up to 19 3/4 " height ?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Lynn



-- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Dick Martin deepskyguy95@...> wrote: >

> 13 3/4 inches from the base of the mount to the center of the knob locking the saddle plate.

> .

> Dick Martin

>

> --- On Fri, 3/13/09, lynnhilborn lynnhilborn@...> wrote:

>

>

> From: lynnhilborn lynnhilborn@...>

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier Mounting...need height of G11 mount

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Date: Friday, March 13, 2009, 6:49 AM

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hello all

> I just purchased a used G11 with Gemini and will not see it until next week when I pick it up. In the meantime I need to put an adapter on my pier to hold the G11.

> My question is...what is the height of the G11 from the base of the mount to the saddle ?

> This will help me plan the pier height so I can clear the walls of my obs.

>

> Thanks all. Look forward to being a proud G11 owner.

> Cheers

> Lynn Hilborn (Mr)

> Whistle Stop Obs

> 44N78W

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#42168 Mar 20, 2009

I am thi king about putting a pier in my back yard to mount my G11 on instead of the tripod. What advice can y'all give?



Bill



----------------------------

#42170 Mar 20, 2009

Hi Bill,



Make a good foundation maybe minimum 2x2x? feet (?=depth depends of the frost line where you live) and at least a 10" diameter concrete pier. Then get an MA adapter from Losmandy and you are done.



Look here



rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/images/O-Obs20.jpg



rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/images/O-Obs28.jpg



For more info look here



rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos1/



rainerehlert.com/astro/pozos2/



regards Rainer







>

> I am thi king about putting a pier in my back yard to mount my G11 on instead of the tripod. What advice can y'all give?

>

> Bill

>







----------------------------

#42173 Mar 20, 2009

Hi Bill,



My advice would be to DO IT!. I've just put one in, and find it great - wish I'd done it ages ago.. It certainly cuts down set-up time, and I don't have the same problems with scopes hitting tripod legs when imaging near zenith!



You'll get lots of advice on size of foundation, and diameter of pipe, but for best advice it would be worth telling us more about where you are, soil type/condition, and what load you'll be putting on the mount.



In my case, the pier went in on the side of a hill, so I had to make the foundations quite deep.. I got what appears to be good advice from a civil engineer friend who suggested that as well as digging a basic foundation hole, that I then bore additional holes off the corners of the bottom of the hole at a slight outward angle, which would have the effect of giving the foundation "legs".. Apparently they do this on some bridge piles, as it provides additional anchorage.. With a 800mm deep by ~600mm diameter main foundation, and 5x 800mm deep by ~200mm diameter.legs off the bottom of that with re-bar tying them.to the main bit, my pier seems to be pretty solidly grounded.. I also got advice on what diameter pipe to use for the pier itself, and the general consensus is 6" minimum, but the bigger the better.. I managed to source a. nice cheap length of 6" galv steel pipe, so took a punt on that, filled it with concrete and set 3 large threaded rods

in the top for the Losmandy MA adapter.. IMHO 6" pipe is fine, as I can't detect any movement in it when in normal use with a 4" and 6" refractor on my G11, and it takes a pretty solid whack to see any movement at all.



Cheers,

Rod

Christchurch, New Zealand







---------------

From: William Ballentine wbabab@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, 21 March, 2009 7:41:28 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] pier





I am thi king about putting a pier in my back yard to mount my G11 on instead of the tripod. What advice can y'all give?



Bill











Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a look au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#42180 Mar 20, 2009

Hi Bill, (and G11 group members),



If you like, have a look at the FILES section in this group, for member

contributions on pier construction.



Recently, I uploaded a spreadsheet, along with a couple of descriptive

documents, which I created last year, calculating the theoretical "OTA

Pointing error", of a PIER mounted Losmandy G11 (or AP-900, Questar-7, etc),

standing outdoors with NO observatory.

*

See - FILES section documents under:

Pier Design & OTA Pointing Error

Spreadsheet: Pier Materials Flex Analysis & resulting Telescope Pointing

Error

*

Feel free to change any of the "Green Cell" spreadsheet values, or pier

dimension columns.



After choosing the mount, the spreadsheet also allows you to then select:

***

(1) pier material (steel, aluminum, heavy PVC, concrete, rebarred concrete,

or timber)

(2) pier shape (square or round - and - solid or hollow)

(3) pier height and width, (and wall thickness)

(4) how many REBARS to use in the concrete (never, just concrete alone, as

you will see)

(5) select the diameter for each steel REBAR in the cement (with some

guidance on that)

***

Then select the "applied forces" you might want to consider -

(I have provided a selection table for most items, as well as one in the

descriptive document, on helping select an appropriate wind speed):

***

(1) weight of the mount

(2) weight and size (surface area, for wind resistance) of the OTA

(3) weight & size of attachments and accessories, counterweights, dovetail,

cameras, etc.

(4) any optional imbalance set on the east size of pier (to aid tracking)

(5) wind velocity ( east to west positive, else negative) with the mount in

the "CWD" position

(6) what force you might kick the pier, or accidentally bump into the OTA

(7) how high up from the ground these forces are applied to the pier, (or

the OTA)



Although the spreadsheet has a lot of intermediate column check

calculations, the printout is condensed to two fine printed, landscape

pages.

Keep an eye on the "resonance" column ("Vortex Shedding Natural Frequency

Ratio"), to see what wind speed might potentially result in damage to an

exposed pier configuration.



Of course, the results are "theoretical", since I can't build & test

every kind of pier, but they are based on considerable (personal) research

and sound engineering principles. At the very least, the spreadsheet will

give you a "comparative idea" of pier materials and dimensions, that will

affect how your scope will behave, even under light breezes. You can copy

spreadsheet rows, or modify the pier dimensions, to suit your own needs, in

that spreadsheet. Each printout set generates a new date and time, to avoid

possible confusion with multiple printed sets, based on different pier

dimension changes, and force scenarios.



Basically, you should consider a STEEL pier, for best stability

performance. Consider wind exposure resulting in wind induced vibration,

depending on wind speed, pier materials and construction, when the system

is left unattended. One thing I discovered is that a beautifully smooth pier

suffers more from wind turbulence than a rough surfaced one - go figure :-)

... I guess that is why a "smooth" OTA also rises up slightly, in a

horizontal cross wind.



Hope you find the spreadsheet informative ... or at least interesting.



Regards,

Joe







----- Original Message -----

From: "William Ballentine" wbabab@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 2:41 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] pier





>I am thi king about putting a pier in my back yard to mount my G11 on

>instead of the tripod. What advice can y'all give?

>

> Bill







----------------------------

#42181 Mar 20, 2009

Hi Rainer,



I often see this kind of construction, and was just wondering what is

the reason of having that adjustment plate between the top of the concrete

pier and the mount (MA adapter) ? It seems like a contradiction - you build

a very sturdy pier, only to have the mount standing on three relatively thin

fexible bolts.



Surely, once you have plombed up the concrete pier tube, and made it

relatively vertical, the remaining alignment is done just once with the G11

head adjustments and a two star alignment. The attached MA adapter & pier

doesn't really have to be "perfectly vertical", since the final head

alignment takes care of any minor discrepencies in construction.



Thanks,

Joe



----------------------------

#42185 Mar 21, 2009

Hi Bill,



Perhaps this might be of help:

Pier Design home.att.net/~dpersyk/Pier_Design.htm



Clear skies,



Dennis Persyk

Igloo Observatory Home Page dpersyk.home.att.net

Hampshire, IL

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "William Ballentine" wbabab@...> wrote:

>

> I am thi king about putting a pier in my back yard to mount my G11 on instead of the tripod. What advice can y'all give?

>

> Bill

>



----------------------------

#42186 Mar 21, 2009

Hi Joe,



Good question but I can not give you an answer :-) Maybe I am anal about levelling my mount and therefore I made it like that.



regards Rainer

>

> Hi Rainer,

>

> I often see this kind of construction, and was just wondering what is

> the reason of having that adjustment plate between the top of the concrete

> pier and the mount (MA adapter) ? It seems like a contradiction - you build

> a very sturdy pier, only to have the mount standing on three relatively thin

> fexible bolts.

>

> Surely, once you have plombed up the concrete pier tube, and made it

> relatively vertical, the remaining alignment is done just once with the G11

> head adjustments and a two star alignment. The attached MA adapter & pier

> doesn't really have to be "perfectly vertical", since the final head

> alignment takes care of any minor discrepencies in construction.

>

> Thanks,

> Joe

>



----------------------------

#42187 Mar 21, 2009

I'd second Rainer - they're worth having.. If you use large enough diameter threaded rod (think mine were M16), and keep the stand-off hight as low as possible, I very much doubt you'll notice any flex.. You then have the ability to absolutely level the mount which can't be a bad thing.. With the best will and engineering in the world you'll find that the top plate isn't as flat as you'd hoped, and you'll end up wishing for some adjustment.



Cheers,

Rod







---------------

From: Rainer rsbfoto@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, 22 March, 2009 5:05:33 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier





Hi Joe,



Good question but I can not give you an answer :-) Maybe I am anal about levelling my mount and therefore I made it like that.



regards Rainer

>

> Hi Rainer,

>

> I often see this kind of construction, and was just wondering what is

> the reason of having that adjustment plate between the top of the concrete

> pier and the mount (MA adapter) ? It seems like a contradiction - you build

> a very sturdy pier, only to have the mount standing on three relatively thin

> fexible bolts.

>

> Surely, once you have plombed up the concrete pier tube, and made it

> relatively vertical, the remaining alignment is done just once with the G11

> head adjustments and a two star alignment. The attached MA adapter & pier

> doesn't really have to be "perfectly vertical", since the final head

> alignment takes care of any minor discrepencies in construction.

>

> Thanks,

> Joe

>











Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a look au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#42188 Mar 21, 2009

Rod and Rainer,



I recall a brief post by Roland Christen in the AP group, about "not

fussing TOO much with levelling the pier".

As you may know, the AP tripod has very few threads to level the feet,

unlike that gorgeous long legged slim G11 pier, which I use. He effectively

said that you could just as easily stand your tripod on the side of a hill,

and it wouldn't matter if it were level or not, just so long as the mount

didn't topple over. No use competing with NASA/ESA contractors, or the

ancient Aztecs who built perfect observing platforms. If the pier should

tilt in a few decades, you aren't going to dig it up, but would just realign

the mount on the pole. Now, why adjust the bolts on the base plate as well -

seems like extra and duplicated work. Besides, what expands more in hot

weather, imperceptibly changing the alignment - the three bolts, or the more

massive pier? I would firmly plant the mount on the flat top of the pier,

without the extra harness.



It's all relative - once you do the head alignment on Polaris and two

star alignment after that, even on a "sloping tripod or pier", you're set

for life ... or until the next earth quake. Levelling the pier absolutely

dead level is more of an aesthetic thing.

Of course, as an engineer, I would still do my best to plant a straight

vertical pier ... oops, I think I'm on dangerous ground here ... but you get

my drift.



So, unfortunately, I still haven't heard a practical engineering reason for

that truss on the pier.



Joe

----- Original Message -----

From: "Rod Mckay" rodnscope@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 8:09 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier





I'd second Rainer - they're worth having. If you use large enough diameter

threaded rod (think mine were M16), and keep the stand-off hight as low as

possible, I very much doubt you'll notice any flex. You then have the

ability to absolutely level the mount which can't be a bad thing. With the

best will and engineering in the world you'll find that the top plate isn't

as flat as you'd hoped, and you'll end up wishing for some adjustment.



Cheers,

Rod







----------------------------

#42189 Mar 22, 2009

It is certainly true that all that is needed for an accurate polar

alignment is to have the line defining the polar axis pointing at the

NCP, regardless of the attitude of its base.



But there are 2 reasons for a level base, although there importance has

diminished. A minor one is to have the center of gravity located

directly over the support. Unless the base is way off level, this is of

practically no importance.



The real value of a level mount comes into play when making azimuth and

altitude adjustments for polar alignment. Imagine a base that is not

level and that the polar axis is correct in altitude but off only in

azimuth. As a result, when rotating the base to make the azimuth

adjustment, you are also inadvertantly changing the altitude.



It is for this reason that the drift alignment process suggests

reiterative alignments (going back and forth between as and alt

adjustments). With a level base, you would only need to make one

correction in each dimension.



Again, this is of diminishing importance now that we have features such

as PAC (Polar Alignment Correction) in Gemini, as well as other polar

alignment tools in other software.



Bill Shaheen

Gold Canyon, AZ

USA



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Zeglinski"

J.Zeglinski@...> wrote: >

> Rod and Rainer,

>

> I recall a brief post by Roland Christen in the AP group, about "not

> fussing TOO much with levelling the pier".

> As you may know, the AP tripod has very few threads to level the feet,

> unlike that gorgeous long legged slim G11 pier, which I use. He

effectively > said that you could just as easily stand your tripod on the side of a

hill, > and it wouldn't matter if it were level or not, just so long as the

mount > didn't topple over. No use competing with NASA/ESA contractors, or the

> ancient Aztecs who built perfect observing platforms. If the pier

should > tilt in a few decades, you aren't going to dig it up, but would just

realign > the mount on the pole. Now, why adjust the bolts on the base plate as

well - > seems like extra and duplicated work. Besides, what expands more in

hot > weather, imperceptibly changing the alignment - the three bolts, or

the more > massive pier? I would firmly plant the mount on the flat top of the

pier, > without the extra harness.

>

> It's all relative - once you do the head alignment on Polaris and two

> star alignment after that, even on a "sloping tripod or pier", you're

set > for life ... or until the next earth quake. Levelling the pier

absolutely > dead level is more of an aesthetic thing.

> Of course, as an engineer, I would still do my best to plant a

straight > vertical pier ... oops, I think I'm on dangerous ground here ... but

you get > my drift.

>

> So, unfortunately, I still haven't heard a practical engineering

reason for > that truss on the pier.

>

> Joe

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Rod Mckay" rodnscope@...

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 8:09 PM

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier

>

>

> I'd second Rainer - they're worth having. If you use large enough

diameter > threaded rod (think mine were M16), and keep the stand-off hight as

low as > possible, I very much doubt you'll notice any flex. You then have the

> ability to absolutely level the mount which can't be a bad thing. With

the > best will and engineering in the world you'll find that the top plate

isn't > as flat as you'd hoped, and you'll end up wishing for some adjustment.

>

> Cheers,

> Rod

>



----------------------------

#42194 Mar 22, 2009

Leveling for a GEM really only matters



(1) for making drift alignment easier--a level pier or tripod will make what you see in the eyepiece conform more exactly to the description in your "how to drift align" sheet



(2) It makes it easier to find polaris from session to session when you set up. On a g11 this is not so critical because it is so ergonomically easy to change the altitude. On the AP designs this is a pain in the wrist (one of the few defects of the AP design, which was corrected in teh Mach 1) and so, to save your wrist, it is easier to level your tripod than it is to have to twist a lot to adjust altitude.



Both contingencies envision situations like mine, where I set up from zero every time I observe. For a permanent pier once you're zeroed in on true N you set it and forget it.



Nonetheless, one should not exclude the possibility of some day moving to an alt-az mount where leveling helps. So in that contingency, I would suggest, try to level your pier as much as you can, but don't go overboard with it.



regards

Greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Zeglinski" J.Zeglinski@...> wrote:

>

> Rod and Rainer,

>

> I recall a brief post by Roland Christen in the AP group, about "not

> fussing TOO much with levelling the pier".

> As you may know, the AP tripod has very few threads to level the feet,

> unlike that gorgeous long legged slim G11 pier, which I use. He effectively

> said that you could just as easily stand your tripod on the side of a hill,

> and it wouldn't matter if it were level or not, just so long as the mount

> didn't topple over. No use competing with NASA/ESA contractors, or the

> ancient Aztecs who built perfect observing platforms. If the pier should

> tilt in a few decades, you aren't going to dig it up, but would just realign

> the mount on the pole. Now, why adjust the bolts on the base plate as well -

> seems like extra and duplicated work. Besides, what expands more in hot

> weather, imperceptibly changing the alignment - the three bolts, or the more

> massive pier? I would firmly plant the mount on the flat top of the pier,

> without the extra harness.

>

> It's all relative - once you do the head alignment on Polaris and two

> star alignment after that, even on a "sloping tripod or pier", you're set

> for life ... or until the next earth quake. Levelling the pier absolutely

> dead level is more of an aesthetic thing.

> Of course, as an engineer, I would still do my best to plant a straight

> vertical pier ... oops, I think I'm on dangerous ground here ... but you get

> my drift.

>

> So, unfortunately, I still haven't heard a practical engineering reason for

> that truss on the pier.

>

> Joe

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Rod Mckay" rodnscope@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 8:09 PM

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier

>

>

> I'd second Rainer - they're worth having. If you use large enough diameter

> threaded rod (think mine were M16), and keep the stand-off hight as low as

> possible, I very much doubt you'll notice any flex. You then have the

> ability to absolutely level the mount which can't be a bad thing. With the

> best will and engineering in the world you'll find that the top plate isn't

> as flat as you'd hoped, and you'll end up wishing for some adjustment.

>

> Cheers,

> Rod

>







----------------------------

#42195 Mar 22, 2009

Hi Joe,

> I recall a brief post by Roland Christen in the AP group, about "not

> fussing TOO much with levelling the pier".



This is the Losmandy Group not the AP-Group and what Roland Christen says is one thing and what I do is another thing :-)

> As you may know, the AP tripod has very few threads to level the feet,



Wrong designed Pier. Roland maybe thing that the world is level :-)

> unlike that gorgeous long legged slim G11 pier, which I use. He effectively

> said that you could just as easily stand your tripod on the side of a hill,



He says a lot ...



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#42197 Mar 22, 2009

Hi Joe,



The bolts which I used are 7/16" ~ roughly 11mm and they do not flex at all. If I would have felx problems whith this setup



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/cons/OReal14-06.jpg



That is a G11 dated year 2003 and loaded with aprox. 66 pounds of equipment and 66 pounds of counterweights ...



then I guess I could not get round stars on a 600 second exposure taken with 3000mm focal length ...



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/1aluz/Estrella-00.jpg



rainerehlert.com/ObsReal14/1aluz/Estrella-01.jpg



The main problem I have now is the backlash in the DEC Axis :-)



The image scale is 0.5" per pixel. Mewlon 250S with a QSI 520i 1600x1200 image pixel size with 7.4micron pixels ...



guided with a 630mm FS-78 scope ...



regards Rainer

>

> Hi Joe,

>

> > I recall a brief post by Roland Christen in the AP group, about "not

> > fussing TOO much with levelling the pier".

>

> This is the Losmandy Group not the AP-Group and what Roland Christen says is one thing and what I do is another thing :-)

>

> > As you may know, the AP tripod has very few threads to level the feet,

>

> Wrong designed Pier. Roland maybe thing that the world is level :-)

>

> > unlike that gorgeous long legged slim G11 pier, which I use. He effectively

> > said that you could just as easily stand your tripod on the side of a hill,

>

> He says a lot ...

>

> regards Rainer

>



----------------------------

#42198 Mar 22, 2009

I've been following this thread a bit.. It seems to me that if the pier is tilted to one side, then you *could* get a polar alignment by adjusting the alt. and az. adjustments, but when you tried tracking, looking East, for instance, you could be pointed down from where you wanted to be, while pointing West, you'd be pointing up (depending on which way your. pier was tilted, of course).. So you need to be level at least on the East-West axis.. Am I correct about that?. North and South, of course, you can simply adjust the alt. screw on the mount.. Maybe by using several alignment stars, that could be corrected for, but you might get field rotation anyway?



David M.



www.homestead.com/STVphotography

--- On Sun, 3/22/09, gnowellsct tim71pos@...> wrote:



From: gnowellsct tim71pos@...>

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Date: Sunday, March 22, 2009, 11:00 AM

























Leveling for a GEM really only matters







(1) for making drift alignment easier--a level pier or tripod will make what you see in the eyepiece conform more exactly to the description in your "how to drift align" sheet







(2) It makes it easier to find polaris from session to session when you set up. On a g11 this is not so critical because it is so ergonomically easy to change the altitude. On the AP designs this is a pain in the wrist (one of the few defects of the AP design, which was corrected in teh Mach 1) and so, to save your wrist, it is easier to level your tripod than it is to have to twist a lot to adjust altitude.







Both contingencies envision situations like mine, where I set up from zero every time I observe. For a permanent pier once you're zeroed in on true N you set it and forget it.







Nonetheless, one should not exclude the possibility of some day moving to an alt-az mount where leveling helps. So in that contingency, I would suggest, try to level your pier as much as you can, but don't go overboard with it.







regards



Greg N







--- In Losmandy_users@ yahoogroups. com, "Joseph Zeglinski" J.Zeglinski@ ...> wrote:



>



> Rod and Rainer,



>



> I recall a brief post by Roland Christen in the AP group, about "not



> fussing TOO much with levelling the pier".



> As you may know, the AP tripod has very few threads to level the feet,



> unlike that gorgeous long legged slim G11 pier, which I use. He effectively



> said that you could just as easily stand your tripod on the side of a hill,



> and it wouldn't matter if it were level or not, just so long as the mount



> didn't topple over. No use competing with NASA/ESA contractors, or the



> ancient Aztecs who built perfect observing platforms. If the pier should



> tilt in a few decades, you aren't going to dig it up, but would just realign



> the mount on the pole. Now, why adjust the bolts on the base plate as well -



> seems like extra and duplicated work. Besides, what expands more in hot



> weather, imperceptibly changing the alignment - the three bolts, or the more



> massive pier? I would firmly plant the mount on the flat top of the pier,



> without the extra harness.



>



> It's all relative - once you do the head alignment on Polaris and two



> star alignment after that, even on a "sloping tripod or pier", you're set



> for life ... or until the next earth quake. Levelling the pier absolutely



> dead level is more of an aesthetic thing.



> Of course, as an engineer, I would still do my best to plant a straight



> vertical pier ... oops, I think I'm on dangerous ground here ... but you get



> my drift.



>



> So, unfortunately, I still haven't heard a practical engineering reason for



> that truss on the pier.



>



> Joe



>



> ----- Original Message -----



> From: "Rod Mckay" rodnscope@. ..>



> To: Losmandy_users@ yahoogroups. com>



> Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 8:09 PM



> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier



>



>



> I'd second Rainer - they're worth having. If you use large enough diameter



> threaded rod (think mine were M16), and keep the stand-off hight as low as



> possible, I very much doubt you'll notice any flex. You then have the



> ability to absolutely level the mount which can't be a bad thing. With the



> best will and engineering in the world you'll find that the top plate isn't



> as flat as you'd hoped, and you'll end up wishing for some adjustment.



>



> Cheers,



> Rod



>































































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#42201 Mar 22, 2009

Your tracking will be good when the polar axis of the mount points to

the celestial pole. The pier does not have to be level. Think about what

happens when you move a portable telescope to a new location. Beause the

Earth is a sphere, the ground at the new location will not be level with

the ground at the old location, yet you can get as good a polar alignment

at the new location as you did at the old. You only need to be level

enough for the mount to be stable and within the limits of adjustment in

altitude and azimuth.



Bud

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009, David Morris wrote:



> I've been following this thread a bit.. It seems to me that if the pier

> is tilted to one side, then you *could* get a polar alignment by

> adjusting the alt. and az. adjustments, but when you tried tracking,

> looking East, for instance, you could be pointed down from where you

> wanted to be, while pointing West, you'd be pointing up (depending on

> which way your. pier was tilted, of course).. So you need to be level at

> least on the East-West axis.. Am I correct about that?. North and South,

> of course, you can simply adjust the alt. screw on the mount.. Maybe by

> using several alignment stars, that could be corrected for, but you

> might get field rotation anyway?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#42202 Mar 22, 2009

Hmmm, I think you may be right.. I went out and grabbed a little GEM camera tracker and put it on its side and aimed the axis at the pole (imaginary, I'm inside my house), and realized that if it was indeed pointed at the pole, by using a polar alignment scope, for instance, I think it would work.. Your safety limits would be a little skewed.....



Interesting, thanks for making me think!



Dmorris



www.homestead.com/STVphotography

--- On Sun, 3/22/09, Don D'Egidio djd521@...> wrote:



From: Don D'Egidio djd521@...>

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Date: Sunday, March 22, 2009, 2:14 PM

























David,







As long as the polar axis is pointed to the north celestial pole, it makes no difference how the



rest of the mount is held in that position. The only important factor is pointing the polar axis to



the north celestial pole. This is only the reference as to the "need" to level the pier or tripod.



However if it is level to start, it does make the action of aligning to the pole easier especially



if using the drift align method.







Don







----- Original Message -----



From: "David Morris" dmorris99us@ yahoo.com>



To: Losmandy_users@ yahoogroups. com>



Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 5:05 PM



Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: pier







I've been following this thread a bit. It seems to me that if the pier is tilted to one side, then



you *could* get a polar alignment by adjusting the alt. and az. adjustments, but when you tried



tracking, looking East, for instance, you could be pointed down from where you wanted to be, while



pointing West, you'd be pointing up (depending on which way your pier was tilted, of course). So you



need to be level at least on the East-West axis. Am I correct about that? North and South, of



course, you can simply adjust the alt. screw on the mount. Maybe by using several alignment stars,



that could be corrected for, but you might get field rotation anyway?







David M.







www.homestea d.com/STVphotogr aphy































































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#42707 May 6, 2009

Hi Folks



I just purchased a Losmandy G11 and was curious if alternative Pier extension solutions besides the Losmandy MA exist.



Currently I have a permanent pier already in place and just need some additional clearance.



Thanks

Troy



----------------------------

#42739 May 7, 2009

Peter that's great. !

I'll have a look at those

Thanks for the reply



Troy

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "peter285509" peter@...> wrote:

>

> Troy

>

> There is another version that is sold for connecting to a Berlebach tripod called ADAP-L which appears quite well made. The price is $134 I think. I presume that it is connected by a single central bolt but I don't know the size. See: www.tetontelescope.com/product_info.php?products_id=366 for details. It is supposed to be able to mount to other flat surfaces, and has the fittings for the Gemini or standard digital control box.

>

> Astro-physics also does an adapter to allow Losmandy mounts to fit onto its a Astro-Physics Tripod, Portable Pier or 6" Eagle Adjustable Folding Pier its called a LM2APT and costs $80. See: www.astro-physics.com/products/accessories/mounting_acc/piers.htm#lm2apt.

>

> Thanks

>

> Peter

>







----------------------------

#43403 Jul 15, 2009

Has anyone come across a USA source for the "new" Losmandy Titan SHORT PIER ? It was written about at ---Links-Are-Forbidden--- FOR THE GREATER GOOD

Join me



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#44446 Nov 23, 2009

Hi !



How should I attach the G11 "head" to a concrete pier (square)?

I made an aluminium plate for the top of the pier but is there "ready" solutions or do I have to construct something on my own to connect G11 head to the plate ?



Regards

Timo



----------------------------

#44447 Nov 23, 2009

Buy the Losmandy MA adapter, that is what I have used for exactly that

purpose. Though I seem to recall someone on here mentioning an alternative

product that is now available.



Mar



2009/11/23 timoeric mybrightstar@...>

>

>

> Hi !

>

> How should I attach the G11 "head" to a concrete pier (square)?

> I made an aluminium plate for the top of the pier but is there "ready"

> solutions or do I have to construct something on my own to connect G11 head

> to the plate ?

>

> Regards

> Timo

>

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#44448 Nov 23, 2009

How should I attach the G11 "head" to a concrete pier (square)?



Losmandy sells a pier adaptor called the Meade Adaptor (MA). I

used this device to put our G11 on top of our pier. It worked very

well and did not require any modifications to use.



Clear skies!

MK



www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm



----------------------------

#44449 Nov 23, 2009

You will need a center bolt attached to your plate, I'm not at home so I don't remember the bolt size.



The MA slides over the bolt and is secured with a like size nut.



Jim ----- Original Message -----

From: "Mark Kaye" mark.kaye@...>

To: "Losmandy users" Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 10:21:30 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Attach G11 ti concrete pier















>How should I attach the G11 "head" to a concrete pier (square)?



Losmandy sells a pier adaptor called the Meade Adaptor (MA). I

used this device to put our G11 on top of our pier. It worked very

well and did not require any modifications to use.



Clear skies!

MK



www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#44450 Nov 23, 2009

Thanks guys !

But attached with only one bolt and an additional 20 kg,s of equipment on the G11 wont there be a problem with flexure ?

It doens.t sound very rigid but maybe I.m wrong.

There could also be a problem with "adapter rotation" when secured with only one bolt.

Am I wrong here ?



Timo



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, jholland12@... wrote:

>

> You will need a center bolt attached to your plate, I'm not at home so I don't remember the bolt size.

>

> The MA slides over the bolt and is secured with a like size nut.

>

> Jim

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Mark Kaye" mark.kaye@...>

> To: "Losmandy users" Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 10:21:30 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Attach G11 ti concrete pier

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> >How should I attach the G11 "head" to a concrete pier (square)?

>

> Losmandy sells a pier adaptor called the Meade Adaptor (MA). I

> used this device to put our G11 on top of our pier. It worked very

> well and did not require any modifications to use.

>

> Clear skies!

> MK

>

> www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#44452 Nov 23, 2009

There could also be a problem with "adapter rotation" when secured

>with only one bolt.



The hole in the middle is for a half inch bolt. There are an

additional set of six smaller holes around the perimeter of the MA

that you could put additional bolts into if you really felt it

necessary. You should be able to tighten a well mounted half inch

bolt down enough that this is not a problem.



Clear skies!

MK



www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm



----------------------------

#44453 Nov 23, 2009

OK, you have convinced me :-)

That.s the way I.ll go !



Clear skies to you all !



Timo

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Mark Kaye mark.kaye@...> wrote:

>

>

> >There could also be a problem with "adapter rotation" when secured

> >with only one bolt.

>

> The hole in the middle is for a half inch bolt. There are an

> additional set of six smaller holes around the perimeter of the MA

> that you could put additional bolts into if you really felt it

> necessary. You should be able to tighten a well mounted half inch

> bolt down enough that this is not a problem.

>

> Clear skies!

> MK

>

> www3.sympatico.ca/mark.kaye/index.htm

>







----------------------------

#44899 Jan 27, 2010

how do I attach an image to a post??? thanks, bob



----------------------------

#44900 Jan 27, 2010

.?



regards Rainer

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "black.bob6780" rjblack67@...> wrote:

>

> how do I attach an image to a post??? thanks, bob

>



----------------------------

#44901 Jan 27, 2010

You have to upload a pic to the files section, can not attach a picture unless you post it some where and then put a link to it, like a gallery.

Floyd

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "black.bob6780" rjblack67@...> wrote:

>

> how do I attach an image to a post??? thanks, bob

>



----------------------------

#44902 Jan 27, 2010

Thanks Floyd

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bakersfieldbiker" fblue@...> wrote:

>

> You have to upload a pic to the files section, can not attach a picture unless you post it some where and then put a link to it, like a gallery.

> Floyd

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "black.bob6780" rjblack67@> wrote:

> >

> > how do I attach an image to a post??? thanks, bob

> >

>



----------------------------

#44903 Jan 27, 2010

Attachments are set to strip because of the risk of propagating viruses, through the group, to over three thousand members.



Lately I have discovered the clever expedient of starting a discussion on Cloudy Nights and posting my picture there, and linking to it through Yahoo using tinyurl.com.



That actually turns out to be more stable than trying to link to a picture in Yahoo's own file system, apparently because the file URLs are not stable over time.



regards

Greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "black.bob6780" rjblack67@...> wrote:

>

> Thanks Floyd

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bakersfieldbiker" fblue@> wrote:

> >

> > You have to upload a pic to the files section, can not attach a picture unless you post it some where and then put a link to it, like a gallery.

> > Floyd

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "black.bob6780" rjblack67@> wrote:

> > >

> > > how do I attach an image to a post??? thanks, bob

> > >

> >

>



----------------------------

#45890 May 25, 2010

I had a pier for the G-11 at my site. But now I have a new setup for the MI-250 and I took the adapter off of the pier for the G-11.

This is the Meade Adapter, that has place for the Gemini and then the mount head, plus the holes in the bottom for mounting it to a pipe or pier.

If you are needing one, contact me by private message.

Thanks,

Floyd



----------------------------

#46467 Jul 15, 2010

Hey guys!



Another newbie question here. I have my G11 on a pier, polar aligned nicely to within a gnat's wisker of a pixel (thanks to PemPro!) and with a quick and dirty PemPro PEC have my PE down to 4 arc-seconds. I seem to have gotten the hang of using many of the GEMINI routines, and have the 'scope pretty well synched - with a warm start and a single star synch I can land most DSO's in the field of my 17 mm Nagler.



But I have a question about "pier flip." I have looked exhaustively in the menus in GEMINI and don't see a command for this. Is there one? So far I have accomplished this by simply using the handbox and manually moving the RA drive to move the 'scope until it is on the "other" side, then re-synching on a star and finding the object I was previously looking at near the Meridian. Is there an automated or easier way to do this (especially when I start photography) so that the scope just goes to the other side of the pier and goes back to the object I was already looking at?



Thanks in advance for another dumb question from a G11 neophyte!





Toxo



----------------------------

#46468 Jul 15, 2010

I thought it was in the Quick Menu section.



Mike Siniscalchi

www.helixgate.net --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@...> wrote:

>



----------------------------

#46469 Jul 15, 2010

By pressing and holding down the menu button, the "meridian flip " will appear, if it is possible to flip without hitting the programed limits.

Floyd

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@...> wrote:

>

> Hey guys!

>

> Another newbie question here. I have my G11 on a pier, polar aligned nicely to within a gnat's wisker of a pixel (thanks to PemPro!) and with a quick and dirty PemPro PEC have my PE down to 4 arc-seconds. I seem to have gotten the hang of using many of the GEMINI routines, and have the 'scope pretty well synched - with a warm start and a single star synch I can land most DSO's in the field of my 17 mm Nagler.

>

> But I have a question about "pier flip." I have looked exhaustively in the menus in GEMINI and don't see a command for this. Is there one? So far I have accomplished this by simply using the handbox and manually moving the RA drive to move the 'scope until it is on the "other" side, then re-synching on a star and finding the object I was previously looking at near the Meridian. Is there an automated or easier way to do this (especially when I start photography) so that the scope just goes to the other side of the pier and goes back to the object I was already looking at?

>

> Thanks in advance for another dumb question from a G11 neophyte!

>

>

> Toxo

>



----------------------------

#46470 Jul 15, 2010

Mike,



!? I didn't look there! Thanks for the tip! Will try it Friday night if the Weather gods don't still hate me...



Toxo

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "ma_siniscalchi" helixgate@...> wrote:

>

>

> I thought it was in the Quick Menu section.

>

> Mike Siniscalchi

> www.helixgate.net

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@> wrote:

> >

>







----------------------------

#46471 Jul 16, 2010

Note the signifigance of Floyd's comment----"If it is possible....." The Meridian Flip option will not appear on the reduced menu if it is not safe to do flip. So, if you are in the wrong place, your limits are set wrong, etc. you may not see the option. It took me a while to find it.



Alex

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bakersfieldbiker" fblue@...> wrote:

>

> By pressing and holding down the menu button, the "meridian flip " will appear, if it is possible to flip without hitting the programed limits.

> Floyd

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@> wrote:

> >

> > Hey guys!

> >

> > Another newbie question here. I have my G11 on a pier, polar aligned nicely to within a gnat's wisker of a pixel (thanks to PemPro!) and with a quick and dirty PemPro PEC have my PE down to 4 arc-seconds. I seem to have gotten the hang of using many of the GEMINI routines, and have the 'scope pretty well synched - with a warm start and a single star synch I can land most DSO's in the field of my 17 mm Nagler.

> >

> > But I have a question about "pier flip." I have looked exhaustively in the menus in GEMINI and don't see a command for this. Is there one? So far I have accomplished this by simply using the handbox and manually moving the RA drive to move the 'scope until it is on the "other" side, then re-synching on a star and finding the object I was previously looking at near the Meridian. Is there an automated or easier way to do this (especially when I start photography) so that the scope just goes to the other side of the pier and goes back to the object I was already looking at?

> >

> > Thanks in advance for another dumb question from a G11 neophyte!

> >

> >

> > Toxo

> >

>



----------------------------

#46472 Jul 16, 2010

Thank you Alex for adding that, it was implied but not stated I guess. :^)

Indeed, IF the mount can flip safely, it will show in the Quick Menu but if it can not, it will not be present. This is how you can tell whether a flip can be made.

Floyd

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "alexmcconahay" alexmcconahay@...> wrote:

>

>

> Note the signifigance of Floyd's comment----"If it is possible....." The Meridian Flip option will not appear on the reduced menu if it is not safe to do flip. So, if you are in the wrong place, your limits are set wrong, etc. you may not see the option. It took me a while to find it.

>

> Alex

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bakersfieldbiker" fblue@> wrote:

> >

> > By pressing and holding down the menu button, the "meridian flip " will appear, if it is possible to flip without hitting the programed limits.

> > Floyd

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@> wrote:

> > >

> > > Hey guys!

> > >

> > > Another newbie question here. I have my G11 on a pier, polar aligned nicely to within a gnat's wisker of a pixel (thanks to PemPro!) and with a quick and dirty PemPro PEC have my PE down to 4 arc-seconds. I seem to have gotten the hang of using many of the GEMINI routines, and have the 'scope pretty well synched - with a warm start and a single star synch I can land most DSO's in the field of my 17 mm Nagler.

> > >

> > > But I have a question about "pier flip." I have looked exhaustively in the menus in GEMINI and don't see a command for this. Is there one? So far I have accomplished this by simply using the handbox and manually moving the RA drive to move the 'scope until it is on the "other" side, then re-synching on a star and finding the object I was previously looking at near the Meridian. Is there an automated or easier way to do this (especially when I start photography) so that the scope just goes to the other side of the pier and goes back to the object I was already looking at?

> > >

> > > Thanks in advance for another dumb question from a G11 neophyte!

> > >

> > >

> > > Toxo

> > >

> >

>



----------------------------

#46475 Jul 16, 2010

Toxo, the Meridian Flip only appears in the Menu when MF is allowed. If you are in the zone where a Flip would bang into the pier on the other side, the menu option doesn't appear.



Charles --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@...> wrote:

>

> Mike,

>

> !? I didn't look there! Thanks for the tip! Will try it Friday night if the Weather gods don't still hate me...

>

> Toxo

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "ma_siniscalchi" helixgate@> wrote:

> >

> >

> > I thought it was in the Quick Menu section.

> >

> > Mike Siniscalchi

> > www.helixgate.net

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "David" toxo144@> wrote:

> > >

> >

>



----------------------------

#47289 Nov 4, 2010

I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.



Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.



Thanks and clear skies,

Ed







----------------------------

#47290 Nov 4, 2010

Hi Ed



Steel or Ali makes no difference apart from cosmetic looks. either if

installed correctly will do the same job, personally I would plumb for

the steel as this is the most cost effective solution plus just about

any engineering works can machine or weld it to suit any changes you

make in the future.

.



Badger



Ed Wiley wrote: > I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#47291 Nov 4, 2010

I am seeing a few post in the archives, but would till like to hear from someone who has specifics on mating that FDH to the concrete pier.



Thanks, Ed

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Wiley" edwiley@...> wrote:

>

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>



----------------------------

#47292 Nov 4, 2010

Ed



Sorry, hit the send key before I mentioned that Gemini will compensate

for a non level pier and do not trust the level built into the base of

your G11 as it will probably be way off, which reminds me of the days I

had a LX200 in Alt/Az mode which everyone said must be level, I used to

put mine together at star parties deliberately way just to annoy the

owners who were anal about how it MUST be set up.



Badger



Ed Wiley wrote: > I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#47293 Nov 4, 2010

Ed, I've done that. If you look at the page below, about half way down, you may get some ideas. I have an advantage in that I have a welding machine. I got the heavy steel pieces cut at a local metal shop and did the welding myself. I tried the sonotube thing only to have it split right after I finished filling it with concrete :^( ...I then switched to a rolled up sheetmetal tube to hold the concrete. As far as leveling goes, I used nuts and flat washers below and above the base plate on the threaded rods...kinda a push-pull situation.



I would not have gone to the design I used but the pier was originally designed to hold a LX200 GPS and later modified to accommadate the G11. The whole thing was relatively inexpensive.



www.wd4sel.com/stargate.htm



Regards,

Stu

----- Original Message -----

From: Ed Wiley

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2010 3:28 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] G-11 on concrete pier - how to fit?







I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.



Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.



Thanks and clear skies,

Ed











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#47294 Nov 4, 2010

Ed, I have had a G-11 on a concrete pier a in SkyShed for some years now. I have had a C9-1/4 with an 80 mm Orion refractor piggy-back for astrophotograpy, and the whole system is solid and works well.



The a/g steel pier is part of the package that came with the SkyShed I bought, and is filled with sand to help damp out resonances quickly. The pier is bolted to a concrete pier, which extends 5 feet below grade. A Sonotube was used in its construction.



Go to SkyShed web site where you can see more details.



Terry Ussher

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Wiley" edwiley@...> wrote:

>

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>



----------------------------

#47295 Nov 4, 2010

Hi Ed



I would just embed a bolt in the top of the pier (after making the top

of the pier as level as possible) that would fit through the hole in the

adapter. You can always provide a bit of leveling by placing a

strategically located penny (or wedge or whatever) under the edge of the

adapter..



If that isn't enough, you can always add a leveling plate later. Just

leave the bolt long enough. I had a machinist make one for my steel

pier but it would be easy enough to make. Just a flat piece of steel

with a hole in the center. Then a tapped hole in each corner with 3/8"

cap screws that bear against the top of the pier and raise or lower that

corner.



I like my pier to be level mount. I know the theory but it just makes

all things easier to have a level mount.



YMMV



Jim Jones



Ed Wiley wrote: > I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#47296 Nov 4, 2010

Ed



I used a plate and four lengths of threaded stainless steel studing on my

concrete pier. There are some pictures here...

www.wilmslowastro.com/tips/observatory.htm



www.wilmslowastro.com/tips/observatory.htm>Mark

On 4 November 2010 20:28, Ed Wiley edwiley@...> wrote:



>

>

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring.

> Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am

> thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base

> below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of

> plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these

> plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete

> pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate

> adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts

> into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#47297 Nov 6, 2010

I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging) before each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or longer so I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory.



The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers they would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to source a pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship. I'll be installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install the pier on an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared. Any suggestions and recommendations would be very welcome.



Regards

Simon



----------------------------

#47298 Nov 6, 2010

Hi Simon



Just about all the UK suppliers have access to piers, my local shop

www.astronomia.co.uk based in Dorking, Surrey list some but also if you

are local and can pop in has access to custom made ones, prices are

around .500.00 plus the cost of having the base laid.



The following link shows a typical pier,

www.astronomia.co.uk/shop/item/1535/Altair_SkyShed_Observatory_Pier_8-inch_diameter/



though I would personally plumb for a nice minimum of 8" (preferably 10"

concrete filled tube pier) with 2 steel steel plates on the top which

would allow for levelling and changes of mount in the future, you can

never have too much girth for a pier so bigger is better. All steel

piers from suppliers such as the Astro Engineering are again OK, but for

the money you may wish to have one custom made at a local engineering works.



You will be bombarded with tales that you must fill any tube based piers

to help dampen them down, I can assure you that this has little effect,

if your pier is that bad it needs beefing up or a redesign and not

filling with sand as all this does is to dampen audible vibration's,

better to go for more girth on the pier and isolating the base from the

surrounding structure.



The G8 is a nice mid range (weight wise) mount so would be fine on all

but the smallest piers, I though would suggest that the difference in

cost between a small pier and a big one is small if you take into

account that the base and structure will cost the same, that you may

wish to go the whole hog and get a nice pier that will also be good if

you decide to go to a G11 or bigger mount in the future.



Badger







> I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging) before each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or longer so I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory.

>

> The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers they would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to source a pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship. I'll be installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install the pier on an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared. Any suggestions and recommendations would be very welcome.

>

> Regards

> Simon

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#47300 Nov 6, 2010

I used the Astro Engeneering AC421 and a G11 in my roll-off observatory.

For the few nights that have been clear since completing it I have been

very pleased with the pier. There are a few photos of the pier in the

observatory as it is being built can be seen here in our club's forum

forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=6434.0

forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=6434.0> .



I ordered the pier with the fixings, it was straight forward to set up,

the seperate mounting ring allowed fine tuning for leveling. It is

advisable to get your base laid as level as possible.



Here in the UK starting a two hour set-up under a clear sky, for it to

cloud over just as you are ready to start imaging is a real pain, but

not unusual. Having everything ready to go makes such a difference. Good

luck with your observatory build, it will be worth it.

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "caracol_uk" simon@...> wrote:

>

> I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the

past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging)

before each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or

longer so I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory.

>

> The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers

they would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to

source a pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship.

I'll be installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install

the pier on an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared.

Any suggestions and recommendations would be very welcome.

>

> Regards

> Simon

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#47302 Nov 7, 2010

Thanks for the information and the link to the photos. It is for the

reasons you mentioned that I'm building an observatory. On several

occasions this year I've set up based on weather forecasts predicting a

clear night only to find low level clouds roll in just as I'm ready. It

seems that many of the weather forecast sites don't accurately predict low

level clouds.



Your observatory looks first class. I hope the weather changes soon so you

can put it through its paces. From the images I can't see the mount on the

pier clearly and I was wondering whether you use the Gemini system with your

G11. From the spec for the AC421 it doesn't seem that there is anywhere to

fix the main Gemini controller. I've really only found 2 pier options so

far, the AC421 and the Altair Astro 8" pier. The Altair Astro pier would

seem to make alignment easier through the use of the adjustable top plate

but would require a pier adapter for use with a Losmandy mount. From what I

can tell the adjustable plate would force the Gemini unit to stick out at a

nearly horizontal angle. This may be a problem as the Gemini unit could not

be placed on the east or west of the pier as it would run the risk of

getting in the way of the scope. If it were placed on the north side it may

be in the way of the counterweights/bar which only leaves the south side.

That would probably be the best option but it would make polar alignment

difficult.



Simon



_____



From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Whitmap

Sent: 06 November 2010 18:38

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Pier for Losmandy GM8









I used the Astro Engeneering AC421 and a G11 in my roll-off observatory.

For the few nights that have been clear since completing it I have been

very pleased with the pier. There are a few photos of the pier in the

observatory as it is being built can be seen here in our club's forum

forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=6434.0

forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=6434.0> .



I ordered the pier with the fixings, it was straight forward to set up,

the seperate mounting ring allowed fine tuning for leveling. It is

advisable to get your base laid as level as possible.



Here in the UK starting a two hour set-up under a clear sky, for it to

cloud over just as you are ready to start imaging is a real pain, but

not unusual. Having everything ready to go makes such a difference. Good

luck with your observatory build, it will be worth it.



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com> , "caracol_uk" simon@...> wrote: >

> I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the

past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging)

before each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or

longer so I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory. >

> The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers

they would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to

source a pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship.

I'll be installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install

the pier on an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared.

Any suggestions and recommendations would be very welcome. >

> Regards

> Simon

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#47303 Nov 7, 2010

Hi Badger,



Thanks for the information, that's very useful. The 2 piers you have

referenced are the ones I've been trying to decide between. I agree it's

best to opt for a pier that will allow me to use larger mounts/scope

combinations in the future. My only dilemma now is whether either of these

2 piers will be suitable. I do like the idea of the adjustable top plate as

it will make alignment easier but I am concerned that it will force the

Gemini unit to be positioned at a near horizontal angle. However, on Altair

Astro's website it seems someone has found an ideal solution to the problem

and has mounted the Gemini brackets just under the top plate to allow it to

be positioned vertically as intended (as in the image below):



www.altairastro.com/product.php?productid=16162



I've emailed Altair Astro to find out more about this as this looks like

it's what I'm after.



Regards

Simon



_____



From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of David Mercer

Sent: 06 November 2010 17:04

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier for Losmandy GM8









Hi Simon



Just about all the UK suppliers have access to piers, my local shop

www.astronomia.co.uk based in Dorking, Surrey list some but also if you

are local and can pop in has access to custom made ones, prices are

around .500.00 plus the cost of having the base laid.



The following link shows a typical pier,

www.astronomia.co.uk/shop/item/1535/Altair_SkyShed_Observatory_Pier_

8-inch_diameter/



though I would personally plumb for a nice minimum of 8" (preferably 10"

concrete filled tube pier) with 2 steel steel plates on the top which

would allow for levelling and changes of mount in the future, you can

never have too much girth for a pier so bigger is better. All steel

piers from suppliers such as the Astro Engineering are again OK, but for

the money you may wish to have one custom made at a local engineering works.



You will be bombarded with tales that you must fill any tube based piers

to help dampen them down, I can assure you that this has little effect,

if your pier is that bad it needs beefing up or a redesign and not

filling with sand as all this does is to dampen audible vibration's,

better to go for more girth on the pier and isolating the base from the

surrounding structure.



The G8 is a nice mid range (weight wise) mount so would be fine on all

but the smallest piers, I though would suggest that the difference in

cost between a small pier and a big one is small if you take into

account that the base and structure will cost the same, that you may

wish to go the whole hog and get a nice pier that will also be good if

you decide to go to a G11 or bigger mount in the future.



Badger

> I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the

past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging) before

each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or longer so

I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory. >

> The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers they

would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to source a

pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship. I'll be

installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install the pier on

an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared. Any suggestions

and recommendations would be very welcome. >

> Regards

> Simon

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#47304 Nov 7, 2010

Simon



Try www.scopesnskies.com/AstroBoot?needle=losmandy can be slow

or awfull service depending on if there is a Y in the month, but the kit

is fine, I think they have some connection to Astro Engineering but

could be wrong. For .5.00 you just can not go wrong, though you may need

to have some longer motor cables made up depending on the distance below

the pier top that you need to mount the controller, but even it it was

horizontal, who cares! though I would personally prefer it away out of

harms reach.



The pier you link to would be fine for both the G8 and G11, I use a boot

lace around the azimuth adjuster knobs and the mounting bolts on my

Gemini when on the pier I have, simple and effective.



Badger







On 07/11/2010 13:19, Simon Edwins wrote:

> Hi Badger,

>

> Thanks for the information, that's very useful. The 2 piers you have

> referenced are the ones I've been trying to decide between. I agree it's

> best to opt for a pier that will allow me to use larger mounts/scope

> combinations in the future. My only dilemma now is whether either of these

> 2 piers will be suitable. I do like the idea of the adjustable top plate as

> it will make alignment easier but I am concerned that it will force the

> Gemini unit to be positioned at a near horizontal angle. However, on Altair

> Astro's website it seems someone has found an ideal solution to the problem

> and has mounted the Gemini brackets just under the top plate to allow it to

> be positioned vertically as intended (as in the image below):

>

> www.altairastro.com/product.php?productid=16162

>

> I've emailed Altair Astro to find out more about this as this looks like

> it's what I'm after.

>

> Regards

> Simon

>

> _____

>

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

> On Behalf Of David Mercer

> Sent: 06 November 2010 17:04

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier for Losmandy GM8

>

>

>

>

> Hi Simon

>

> Just about all the UK suppliers have access to piers, my local shop

> www.astronomia.co.uk based in Dorking, Surrey list some but also if you

> are local and can pop in has access to custom made ones, prices are

> around .500.00 plus the cost of having the base laid.

>

> The following link shows a typical pier,

> www.astronomia.co.uk/shop/item/1535/Altair_SkyShed_Observatory_Pier_

> 8-inch_diameter/

>

> though I would personally plumb for a nice minimum of 8" (preferably 10"

> concrete filled tube pier) with 2 steel steel plates on the top which

> would allow for levelling and changes of mount in the future, you can

> never have too much girth for a pier so bigger is better. All steel

> piers from suppliers such as the Astro Engineering are again OK, but for

> the money you may wish to have one custom made at a local engineering works...

>

> You will be bombarded with tales that you must fill any tube based piers

> to help dampen them down, I can assure you that this has little effect,

> if your pier is that bad it needs beefing up or a redesign and not

> filling with sand as all this does is to dampen audible vibration's,

> better to go for more girth on the pier and isolating the base from the

> surrounding structure.

>

> The G8 is a nice mid range (weight wise) mount so would be fine on all

> but the smallest piers, I though would suggest that the difference in

> cost between a small pier and a big one is small if you take into

> account that the base and structure will cost the same, that you may

> wish to go the whole hog and get a nice pier that will also be good if

> you decide to go to a G11 or bigger mount in the future.

>

> Badger

>

>> I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the

> past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging) before

> each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or longer so

> I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory.

>> The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers they

> would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to source a

> pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship. I'll be

> installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install the pier on

> an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared. Any suggestions

> and recommendations would be very welcome.

>> Regards

>> Simon

>>

>>

>>

---------------

>>

>> Yahoo! Groups Links

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#47305 Nov 7, 2010

Thanks Badger, with one of those brackets I should be able to mount the

Gemini below the top plates which is exactly what I had in mind. The only

concern I had with mounting the Gemini horizontally was that it would stick

out far enough to either get in the way of the scope, counterweight/bar or

make looking through the polar scope difficult depending upon which side of

the mount it was installed.



Regards

Simon



_____



From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of David Mercer

Sent: 07 November 2010 15:03

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier for Losmandy GM8









Simon



Try www.scopesnskies.com/AstroBoot?needle=losmandy can be slow

or awfull service depending on if there is a Y in the month, but the kit

is fine, I think they have some connection to Astro Engineering but

could be wrong. For .5.00 you just can not go wrong, though you may need

to have some longer motor cables made up depending on the distance below

the pier top that you need to mount the controller, but even it it was

horizontal, who cares! though I would personally prefer it away out of

harms reach.



The pier you link to would be fine for both the G8 and G11, I use a boot

lace around the azimuth adjuster knobs and the mounting bolts on my

Gemini when on the pier I have, simple and effective.



Badger

On 07/11/2010 13:19, Simon Edwins wrote:

> Hi Badger,

>

> Thanks for the information, that's very useful. The 2 piers you have

> referenced are the ones I've been trying to decide between. I agree it's

> best to opt for a pier that will allow me to use larger mounts/scope

> combinations in the future. My only dilemma now is whether either of these

> 2 piers will be suitable. I do like the idea of the adjustable top plate

as

> it will make alignment easier but I am concerned that it will force the

> Gemini unit to be positioned at a near horizontal angle. However, on

Altair

> Astro's website it seems someone has found an ideal solution to the

problem

> and has mounted the Gemini brackets just under the top plate to allow it

to

> be positioned vertically as intended (as in the image below):

>

> www.altairastro.com/product.php?productid=16162

>

> I've emailed Altair Astro to find out more about this as this looks like

> it's what I'm after.

>

> Regards

> Simon

>

> _____

>

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com> ]

> On Behalf Of David Mercer

> Sent: 06 November 2010 17:04

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com>

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier for Losmandy GM8

>

>

>

>

> Hi Simon

>

> Just about all the UK suppliers have access to piers, my local shop

> www.astronomia.co.uk based in Dorking, Surrey list some but also if you

> are local and can pop in has access to custom made ones, prices are

> around .500.00 plus the cost of having the base laid.

>

> The following link shows a typical pier,

>

www.astronomia.co.uk/shop/item/1535/Altair_SkyShed_Observatory_Pier_

> 8-inch_diameter/

>

> though I would personally plumb for a nice minimum of 8" (preferably 10"

> concrete filled tube pier) with 2 steel steel plates on the top which

> would allow for levelling and changes of mount in the future, you can

> never have too much girth for a pier so bigger is better. All steel

> piers from suppliers such as the Astro Engineering are again OK, but for

> the money you may wish to have one custom made at a local engineering

works...

>

> You will be bombarded with tales that you must fill any tube based piers

> to help dampen them down, I can assure you that this has little effect,

> if your pier is that bad it needs beefing up or a redesign and not

> filling with sand as all this does is to dampen audible vibration's,

> better to go for more girth on the pier and isolating the base from the

> surrounding structure.

>

> The G8 is a nice mid range (weight wise) mount so would be fine on all

> but the smallest piers, I though would suggest that the difference in

> cost between a small pier and a big one is small if you take into

> account that the base and structure will cost the same, that you may

> wish to go the whole hog and get a nice pier that will also be good if

> you decide to go to a G11 or bigger mount in the future.

>

> Badger

>

>> I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the

> past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging) before

> each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or longer so

> I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory.

>> The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers they

> would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to source a

> pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship. I'll be

> installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install the pier

on

> an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared. Any

suggestions

> and recommendations would be very welcome.

>> Regards

>> Simon

>>

>>

>>

---------------

>>

>> Yahoo! Groups Links

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#47306 Nov 7, 2010

I have used velcro to fix the Gemini control box to the top of the pier, it fits under the polar scope eyepice.Mounting it there keeps it well out of the way of the scope etc. But I like the look of the holder and may get one.

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Simon Edwins" simon@...> wrote:

>

> Thanks for the information and the link to the photos. It is for the

> reasons you mentioned that I'm building an observatory. On several

> occasions this year I've set up based on weather forecasts predicting a

> clear night only to find low level clouds roll in just as I'm ready. It

> seems that many of the weather forecast sites don't accurately predict low

> level clouds.

>

> Your observatory looks first class. I hope the weather changes soon so you

> can put it through its paces. From the images I can't see the mount on the

> pier clearly and I was wondering whether you use the Gemini system with your

> G11. From the spec for the AC421 it doesn't seem that there is anywhere to

> fix the main Gemini controller. I've really only found 2 pier options so

> far, the AC421 and the Altair Astro 8" pier. The Altair Astro pier would

> seem to make alignment easier through the use of the adjustable top plate

> but would require a pier adapter for use with a Losmandy mount. From what I

> can tell the adjustable plate would force the Gemini unit to stick out at a

> nearly horizontal angle. This may be a problem as the Gemini unit could not

> be placed on the east or west of the pier as it would run the risk of

> getting in the way of the scope. If it were placed on the north side it may

> be in the way of the counterweights/bar which only leaves the south side.

> That would probably be the best option but it would make polar alignment

> difficult.

>

> Simon

>

> _____

>

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

> On Behalf Of Whitmap

> Sent: 06 November 2010 18:38

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Pier for Losmandy GM8

>

>

>

>

> I used the Astro Engeneering AC421 and a G11 in my roll-off observatory.

> For the few nights that have been clear since completing it I have been

> very pleased with the pier. There are a few photos of the pier in the

> observatory as it is being built can be seen here in our club's forum

> forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=6434.0

> forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=6434.0> .

>

> I ordered the pier with the fixings, it was straight forward to set up,

> the seperate mounting ring allowed fine tuning for leveling. It is

> advisable to get your base laid as level as possible.

>

> Here in the UK starting a two hour set-up under a clear sky, for it to

> cloud over just as you are ready to start imaging is a real pain, but

> not unusual. Having everything ready to go makes such a difference. Good

> luck with your observatory build, it will be worth it.

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com> , "caracol_uk" simon@> wrote:

> >

> > I'm a happy owner of a Losmandy GM8 with the Gemini system and for the

> past year or so I've been setting my mount up (mainly for imaging)

> before each use. On average the whole process can take up to 2 hours or

> longer so I've decided it's time to set up a home observatory.

> >

> > The reason for this post is to ask other Losmandy users which piers

> they would recommend. I'm based in the UK so I'm hoping to be able to

> source a pier here as due to the weight it would be expensive to ship.

> I'll be installing the pier in a roll off roof shed and plan to install

> the pier on an isolated concrete platform which has yet to be prepared.

> Any suggestions and recommendations would be very welcome.

> >

> > Regards

> > Simon

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#47311 Nov 8, 2010

The Crossley design looks really, really slick. The using three screws

to level a plate is the standard metrology approach, though. That said,

I have managed to level transits with four screws and lots of profanity

on and off for 50 years.



No matter what approach you take using self-aligning washers will make

you life a little easier especially if you opt for the four support

design. They swivel and put less bending into the plate than flat

washers. Any tool supply outlet that caters to machinists should have

them. Failing that, get them from McMaster-Carr for five or six bucks a

hole (ten bucks more for stainless)

McMaster-Carr Washers

www.mcmaster.com/#self-aligning-washers/=9mw6ay>



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Wiley" edwiley@...> wrote:

>

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next

spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a

pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with

appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that

consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy

adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a

concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money

on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained

locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly

appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#47314 Nov 9, 2010

Ed,

I have put a couple of pictures in the Photo's section of how I mounted my GM8 on a 9 inch square concrete pier. Look in "David's File"



HTH

Regards,

David Pettitt. (UK)

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Wiley" edwiley@...> wrote:

>

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems? Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>



----------------------------

#47315 Nov 9, 2010

Hi,



Another example of use of Losmandy adapater directly putted over

concrete pier.

The screws were fit into the FHD then directly put into liquid concrete.

The orientation of the adater was determined with a compass before for

sure !

The adapter was fixed with a set of chocks.

See the result here :



astrosurf.com/noctambule/observatoire/observatoire3.html



It is IAU B24 CESSON Observatory. Text in french but photos are more

speaking.

The G11 supports a 12" Meade SCT, camera and counterweights.



Marc SERRAU



Le 04/11/2010 20:28, Ed Wiley a .crit : >

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next

> spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for

> a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with

> appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that

> consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy

> adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a

> concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the

> money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate

> obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems?

> Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#47316 Nov 9, 2010

Hi,



Another example of use of Losmandy adapater directly putted over

concrete pier.

The screws were fit into the FHD then directly put into liquid concrete.

The orientation of the adater was determined with a compass before for

sure !

The adapter was fixed with a set of chocks.

See the result here :



astrosurf.com/noctambule/observatoire/observatoire3.html



It is IAU B24 CESSON Observatory. Text in french but photos are more

speaking.

The G11 supports a 12" Meade SCT, camera and counterweights.



Best regards and clear nights.



Marc SERRAU



Le 04/11/2010 20:28, Ed Wiley a .crit : >

> I will be installing a roll-off observatory in the backyard next

> spring. Set up is a G-11 and a Royce 8" DK. Of the several options for

> a pier, I am thinking a 10-12" concrete pier, sonotube style with

> appropriate bell-base below the frost line. I have seen products that

> consist of a series of plates mated to the pier and then to a Losmandy

> adapter (FHD), but these plate adapters seem expensive.

>

> Anyone on the forum mounted a G-11 (or G-8 for that matter) on a

> concrete pier? If so, what was your solution? Better to spend the

> money on the plate adapters? (ca $300 or so)? Simple steel plate

> obtained locally with bolts into the concrete? Leveling problems?

> Ideas greatly appreciated.

>

> Thanks and clear skies,

> Ed

>

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#47383 Nov 15, 2010

I want to thank everyone who answered my query about piers that I recently posted. I was out of town and did not have a chance to thank everyone in a timely fashion.



Clear skies,

Ed



----------------------------

#49530 Sep 2, 2011

Can someone recommend me a pier for my g11?

I want to permanently mount it on my roof



I have been thinking in custom making in a local shop, someone has done that? Could the g-11 tripod top for that



Sent from my iPhone



----------------------------

#49534 Sep 2, 2011

I had a local machinist build one for me. Cost less than the shipping

for a store bought pier. I rustled up the material so didn't pay him to

do that.



A good welding shop should be able to make one too.



Jim Jones





Maurice De Castro wrote: > Can someone recommend me a pier for my g11?

> I want to permanently mount it on my roof

>

> I have been thinking in custom making in a local shop, someone has done that? Could the g-11 tripod top for that

>

> Sent from my iPhone

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#49622 Sep 12, 2011

I want to make a pier for my g11 on my local machine shop



They are asking me for a plan, wonder if someone has one to share



Thanks



Maurice



Sent from my iPhone



----------------------------

#49641 Sep 15, 2011

Maurice,



I built two different types last year. a short one for driveway use and a tall one for my observatory. It started out for a CGEM but I have moved on to the G11 now and did a bit of a mod to the 4" radius base plates to keep the weights from hitting, just cut off an inch or so and flattened out the radius to clear the weights. Made pier from 6"X"6"X 0.25 wall & 4"X4"X 0.25wall square aluminum tubing with 2"X 0.75" aluminum flat bar bolted to the 4" square tubing so that it can slide up and down for height adjustment. Used some 3/8" wing screws to hold it in place, 2 in one side and two in another at 90 degrees to each other. All screws are 1/4"-20 flat head stainless steel and tapped into the 4" sq tubing to mount the flat bar as shown. Send your email and I'll send some screen shots of the drawing.



Hope this helps,



Niel







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Maurice De Castro luis_maurice@...> wrote:

>

> I want to make a pier for my g11 on my local machine shop

>

> They are asking me for a plan, wonder if someone has one to share

>

> Thanks

>

> Maurice

>

> Sent from my iPhone

>



----------------------------

#49644 Sep 15, 2011

I'm especially interested in the mods you needed to do when going from a CGEM to the G11 cause I'm thinking of doing the same. I know the counterweight arm extend down further on the G11 but clearance issues surprise me a little. What Latitude are you at?



Al

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "njensen593" njensen593@...> wrote:

>

> Maurice,

>

> I built two different types last year. a short one for driveway use and a tall one for my observatory. It started out for a CGEM but I have moved on to the G11 now and did a bit of a mod to the 4" radius base plates to keep the weights from hitting, just cut off an inch or so and flattened out the radius to clear the weights. Made pier from 6"X"6"X 0.25 wall & 4"X4"X 0.25wall square aluminum tubing with 2"X 0.75" aluminum flat bar bolted to the 4" square tubing so that it can slide up and down for height adjustment. Used some 3/8" wing screws to hold it in place, 2 in one side and two in another at 90 degrees to each other. All screws are 1/4"-20 flat head stainless steel and tapped into the 4" sq tubing to mount the flat bar as shown. Send your email and I'll send some screen shots of the drawing.

>

> Hope this helps,

>

> Niel

>

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Maurice De Castro luis_maurice@> wrote:

> >

> > I want to make a pier for my g11 on my local machine shop

> >

> > They are asking me for a plan, wonder if someone has one to share

> >

> > Thanks

> >

> > Maurice

> >

> > Sent from my iPhone

> >

>



----------------------------

#49645 Sep 15, 2011

Thanks for that Niel



my mail is:

luismauricedecastro@...



Regards



Maurice



From: njensen593

Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:10 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Plans for g11 pier





Maurice,



I built two different types last year. a short one for driveway use and a tall one for my observatory. It started out for a CGEM but I have moved on to the G11 now and did a bit of a mod to the 4" radius base plates to keep the weights from hitting, just cut off an inch or so and flattened out the radius to clear the weights. Made pier from 6"X"6"X 0.25 wall & 4"X4"X 0.25wall square aluminum tubing with 2"X 0.75" aluminum flat bar bolted to the 4" square tubing so that it can slide up and down for height adjustment. Used some 3/8" wing screws to hold it in place, 2 in one side and two in another at 90 degrees to each other. All screws are 1/4"-20 flat head stainless steel and tapped into the 4" sq tubing to mount the flat bar as shown. Send your email and I'll send some screen shots of the drawing.



Hope this helps,



Niel

--- In mailto:Losmandy_users%40yahoogroups.com, Maurice De Castro luis_maurice@...> wrote:

>

> I want to make a pier for my g11 on my local machine shop

>

> They are asking me for a plan, wonder if someone has one to share

>

> Thanks

>

> Maurice

>

> Sent from my iPhone

>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#49647 Sep 15, 2011

'cuse me for jumping in, but you may get some ideas on my www.wd4sel.com/stargate.htm page. This pier was originally designed for a 10"LX200GPS (fork mounted SCT). I later mod'd it to suit a Losmandy G11. There are 3-4 pictures on the above page about 1/2 way down and I'll give you the general dimensions and the rest should fall into place. The concrete base is 12" in diameter with rebar reinforcement. Inserted when the concrete was wet are three 3/4" threaded rods about 18" long each. The bottom of these threaded rods has a small hole drilled in it and a 16 penny nail in the hole to make sure it doesn't break loose and turn when tighting. Note there is a nut and flat washer top and bottom of the 3/8" thick steel plate which is also about 12" in diameter and 20" above the floor. The nuts and washer hold the steel plate firmly and provide a leveling method (if required). The chocks are 3" x 3.5" x 1/4" thick. The pipe above the base plate is 6" standard pipe (about 6 5/8" OS diameter) and about 11" tall. There is a flat steel plate bolted on top of this 6" pipe with 3 "ears for the 12" tall Losmandy extension to bolt to.



I had all the parts cut at a local metal shop for a small price and did the welding myself. The Losmandy extension was ordered from Losmandy. The whole thing is very stable. I would have done it a bit different if it was designed for a G11 in the begining but considering all, it turned out well.



HTHs,

Stu

----- Original Message -----

From: Al

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:35 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Plans for g11 pier







I'm especially interested in the mods you needed to do when going from a CGEM to the G11 cause I'm thinking of doing the same. I know the counterweight arm extend down further on the G11 but clearance issues surprise me a little. What Latitude are you at?



Al



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "njensen593" njensen593@...> wrote:

>

> Maurice,

>

> I built two different types last year. a short one for driveway use and a tall one for my observatory. It started out for a CGEM but I have moved on to the G11 now and did a bit of a mod to the 4" radius base plates to keep the weights from hitting, just cut off an inch or so and flattened out the radius to clear the weights. Made pier from 6"X"6"X 0.25 wall & 4"X4"X 0.25wall square aluminum tubing with 2"X 0.75" aluminum flat bar bolted to the 4" square tubing so that it can slide up and down for height adjustment. Used some 3/8" wing screws to hold it in place, 2 in one side and two in another at 90 degrees to each other. All screws are 1/4"-20 flat head stainless steel and tapped into the 4" sq tubing to mount the flat bar as shown. Send your email and I'll send some screen shots of the drawing.

>

> Hope this helps,

>

> Niel

>

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Maurice De Castro luis_maurice@> wrote:

> >

> > I want to make a pier for my g11 on my local machine shop

> >

> > They are asking me for a plan, wonder if someone has one to share

> >

> > Thanks

> >

> > Maurice

> >

> > Sent from my iPhone

> >

>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#49671 Sep 17, 2011

For those of you who poured piers using a 12" sonotube, I am pouring a pier and will place 3 or 4 3 ft. long threaded rods into the cement to hold a 1/2" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. How far from the center did you place the rods that hold the plate upon which you mounted the field tripod adapter for the G11 and what diameter rods did you use?



Thanks,

Tom



----------------------------

#49673 Sep 17, 2011

Thanks for the tips Stu. I will reinforce the Sonotube by surrounding the outside with wood slats and some sort of hose clamp arrangement till the cement hardens.



Tom

----- Original Message -----

From: Stuart Beaber

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:56 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question







Tom, you can see mine here www.wd4sel.com/stargate.htm not quite half way down the page. Without going to the OB in the (currently) rain...I would say about 2"s in from the edge. Don't forget to drill a hole in the end of the threaded rod and insert something like a 16 penny nail to keep it from breaking loose and turning when tightening.



Another big problem for me...I used a 12" sonotube and when I got it full of concrete and as I was admiring my work...the seam in the sonotube split and I watched helplessly as ~800lbs of wet concrete slowly spilled out below the wooden floor in my OB. What a cleanup mess.



I regrouped the next day and built a reinforced wooden form below the wooden floor and used a metal tube (12" diameter) above the floor. My threaded rods are 3/4" X 18" long.



HTH,

Stu



----- Original Message -----

From: wa1vta01452

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:32 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



For those of you who poured piers using a 12" sonotube, I am pouring a pier and will place 3 or 4 3 ft. long threaded rods into the cement to hold a 1/2" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. How far from the center did you place the rods that hold the plate upon which you mounted the field tripod adapter for the G11 and what diameter rods did you use?



Thanks,

Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#49674 Sep 17, 2011

Tom,



My observatory doesn't house my Losmandy, but you can see a few photosmof

how I did my pier. On this page you can see how I installed the rebar:



pictorobservatory.ca/html/construction/const_009.htm



And on this page, you can see the template I inserted into the wet concrete

with the j bolts I bought from the local Home Depot with the first of the

two 12" square plates for size.



Bill









On Saturday, 17 September 2011, wa1vta01452 loeblt@...> wrote:

>

>

> For those of you who poured piers using a 12" sonotube, I am pouring a

pier and will place 3 or 4 3 ft. long threaded rods into the cement to hold

a 1/2" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. How far from the center did you place the

rods that hold the plate upon which you mounted the field tripod adapter for

the G11 and what diameter rods did you use?

>

> Thanks,

> Tom

>

>



--

_____________



Pictor Observatory

www.pictorobservatory.ca





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#49675 Sep 17, 2011

Stu,

one more question...on your web site I see you used corrugated fiberglass for the roll-off roof. Did you have to fabricate the doodads under the edges used to weather seal them, or are they available for purchase.



Tom

----- Original Message -----

From: Stuart Beaber

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:56 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question







Tom, you can see mine here www.wd4sel.com/stargate.htm not quite half way down the page. Without going to the OB in the (currently) rain...I would say about 2"s in from the edge. Don't forget to drill a hole in the end of the threaded rod and insert something like a 16 penny nail to keep it from breaking loose and turning when tightening.



Another big problem for me...I used a 12" sonotube and when I got it full of concrete and as I was admiring my work...the seam in the sonotube split and I watched helplessly as ~800lbs of wet concrete slowly spilled out below the wooden floor in my OB. What a cleanup mess.



I regrouped the next day and built a reinforced wooden form below the wooden floor and used a metal tube (12" diameter) above the floor. My threaded rods are 3/4" X 18" long.



HTH,

Stu



----- Original Message -----

From: wa1vta01452

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:32 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



For those of you who poured piers using a 12" sonotube, I am pouring a pier and will place 3 or 4 3 ft. long threaded rods into the cement to hold a 1/2" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. How far from the center did you place the rods that hold the plate upon which you mounted the field tripod adapter for the G11 and what diameter rods did you use?



Thanks,

Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#49676 Sep 17, 2011

Tom, they are available for purchase right next to the corrugated roofing. It a foam type material, really inexpensive and they are not just at the edges but everywhere that the supports are at. Along the edges I did put a bead of white silicon caulk on top of and under the foam supports before screwing them down, but not on the center supports. I also used an all weather coated screw with a neopreme washer. The panels are polycarbon vice regular plastic and have a built in UV inhibitor. They last a lot longer than plastic You can run the screws right thru the polycarbon and foam supports into the wood supports below. I got mine at either Home Depot or Lowes...I forgot...I think both sell the same stuff. Just snug the screws don't over tighten or you will crush the material.



Regards,

Stu

----- Original Message -----

From: tom

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 8:26 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question







Stu,

one more question...on your web site I see you used corrugated fiberglass for the roll-off roof. Did you have to fabricate the doodads under the edges used to weather seal them, or are they available for purchase.



Tom



----- Original Message -----

From: Stuart Beaber

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:56 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



Tom, you can see mine here www.wd4sel.com/stargate.htm not quite half way down the page. Without going to the OB in the (currently) rain...I would say about 2"s in from the edge. Don't forget to drill a hole in the end of the threaded rod and insert something like a 16 penny nail to keep it from breaking loose and turning when tightening.



Another big problem for me...I used a 12" sonotube and when I got it full of concrete and as I was admiring my work...the seam in the sonotube split and I watched helplessly as ~800lbs of wet concrete slowly spilled out below the wooden floor in my OB. What a cleanup mess.



I regrouped the next day and built a reinforced wooden form below the wooden floor and used a metal tube (12" diameter) above the floor. My threaded rods are 3/4" X 18" long.



HTH,

Stu



----- Original Message -----

From: wa1vta01452

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:32 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



For those of you who poured piers using a 12" sonotube, I am pouring a pier and will place 3 or 4 3 ft. long threaded rods into the cement to hold a 1/2" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. How far from the center did you place the rods that hold the plate upon which you mounted the field tripod adapter for the G11 and what diameter rods did you use?



Thanks,

Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#49677 Sep 17, 2011

Thanks Stu... I have had the most difficulty deciding on the type of roof material to use. I plan to make a flip down roof and this material may be just the ticket if I mount it on a structurally light frame of 1X4 lumber. I will check out Home Depot tomorrow to see what they have in stock.



Thanks also to Bill for the pier details on his web site.



Tom

----- Original Message -----

From: Stuart Beaber

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 8:51 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question







Tom, they are available for purchase right next to the corrugated roofing. It a foam type material, really inexpensive and they are not just at the edges but everywhere that the supports are at. Along the edges I did put a bead of white silicon caulk on top of and under the foam supports before screwing them down, but not on the center supports. I also used an all weather coated screw with a neopreme washer. The panels are polycarbon vice regular plastic and have a built in UV inhibitor. They last a lot longer than plastic You can run the screws right thru the polycarbon and foam supports into the wood supports below. I got mine at either Home Depot or Lowes...I forgot...I think both sell the same stuff. Just snug the screws don't over tighten or you will crush the material.



Regards,

Stu



----- Original Message -----

From: tom

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 8:26 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



Stu,

one more question...on your web site I see you used corrugated fiberglass for the roll-off roof. Did you have to fabricate the doodads under the edges used to weather seal them, or are they available for purchase.



Tom



----- Original Message -----

From: Stuart Beaber

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:56 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



Tom, you can see mine here www.wd4sel.com/stargate.htm not quite half way down the page. Without going to the OB in the (currently) rain...I would say about 2"s in from the edge. Don't forget to drill a hole in the end of the threaded rod and insert something like a 16 penny nail to keep it from breaking loose and turning when tightening.



Another big problem for me...I used a 12" sonotube and when I got it full of concrete and as I was admiring my work...the seam in the sonotube split and I watched helplessly as ~800lbs of wet concrete slowly spilled out below the wooden floor in my OB. What a cleanup mess.



I regrouped the next day and built a reinforced wooden form below the wooden floor and used a metal tube (12" diameter) above the floor. My threaded rods are 3/4" X 18" long.



HTH,

Stu



----- Original Message -----

From: wa1vta01452

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 5:32 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Pier question



For those of you who poured piers using a 12" sonotube, I am pouring a pier and will place 3 or 4 3 ft. long threaded rods into the cement to hold a 1/2" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. How far from the center did you place the rods that hold the plate upon which you mounted the field tripod adapter for the G11 and what diameter rods did you use?



Thanks,

Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#49710 Sep 20, 2011

Build a plywood box form, well braced to avoid 'blowout'.



Mark Christensen



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#49717 Sep 21, 2011

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Rolf fastprin@...> wrote: >

>

> Hi Rick,

> I have used a big round plastic storage bin,

> cut the bottom out and filled that with concrete,

> easy to remove again after it had set.

>

> .

>

>

---------------

>Thanks Rolf,

A friend suggested a garbage container. I've got an old one at home so cost is much better. Rick



----------------------------

#49718 Sep 21, 2011

Hello,

If only needed to be a ground level, Just dig a hole in the ground and fill it with cement.

No form, tube or anything else needed.

Regards

John



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#49741 Sep 23, 2011

Try embedding a plate into the top of the pier. Plate can be bigger diameter than pier and holes can be drilled just inside the outer diameter to fit whatever bolts you need to adapt to.

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "rik_ell@..." rik_ell@...> wrote:

>

> I wanted to bolt a pier to a cement base formed inside a 12" sonotube. Unfortunately the base of the pier is 12 inches which doesn't leave much space for the bolts to set in the cement. Larger diameter sonotubes are very expensive so I'm looking for an alternative. I've found one option which is to use a "foot" which is a heavy plastic funnel usually placed at the bottom of the tube. It's about 16" across. I thought I could place it on top. Any other ideas greatly appreciated. Rick

>



----------------------------

#50887 May 1, 2012

Hi group,

Can anybody tell me how to setup a pier flip in the Gemini software in the hand control AND in the Gemini (Ascom) software?



Thanks in advance!



Kind regards,



Peter



----------------------------

#50888 May 1, 2012

I do not know what kind of "setting up" you mean.



To get a meridian flip in the hand paddle, you need to press and hold the Menu button. This will cycle to the short menu--the first item is to go from Visual to Photo speed (or vice versa)....keep it pressed and it will cycle through the various other options, including parking, and other options. One of the options is Meridian Flip. Let the button go when it gets there and it starts the flip. However, it will not give you that option if, considering its pointing model and safety limits, and where it is already pointing, it does not consider it safe to flip.



I don't know about the ASCOM software, and again, I do not know if there is a way to "set up" a meridian flip so that it happens at a certain point in the process.



Alex





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" peter.aaroe-hansen@...> wrote:

>

> Hi group,

> Can anybody tell me how to setup a pier flip in the Gemini software in the hand control AND in the Gemini (Ascom) software?

>

> Thanks in advance!

>

> Kind regards,

>

> Peter

>



----------------------------

#50898 May 2, 2012

Out of curiosity, why does some software call it a "pier flip" when one hopes the pier is secure and won't flip? And of course when using a tripod you still need to do a "pier flip":)



Gale

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "rockjockjared" jwellman@...> wrote:

>

> To execute a Pier Flip in the ASCOM "Hand Controller"...click the "Func" button and select "Perform Meridian Flip" (I think that's what it's called...once you're in that menu it will be obvious.)

>

> Jared

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" peter.aaroe-hansen@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi group,

> > Can anybody tell me how to setup a pier flip in the Gemini software in the hand control AND in the Gemini (Ascom) software?

> >

> > Thanks in advance!

> >

> > Kind regards,

> >

> > Peter

> >

>



----------------------------

#51044 May 31, 2012

Hi Folks,



Getting all my ducks in a row, need to know if someone sells a concrete pier adapter plate for a G11?



Thanks

Bart



----------------------------

#51049 Jun 1, 2012

Yes I ordered mine from Losmandy It is the top part of the tripod, no ears for legs but with the ears for the gemini. I used a 1/2 inch concrete anchor to bolt it to the pier. The only issues were leveling it and that it took many months to arrive. Gary

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bartjy" QTMServer@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Folks,

>

> Getting all my ducks in a row, need to know if someone sells a concrete pier adapter plate for a G11?

>

> Thanks

> Bart

>



----------------------------

#51050 Jun 1, 2012

That's exactly what I'm looking for.



Is the one 1/2" concrete pier anchor enough to eliminate all flex? I'm thinking I could drill three 1/2" holes around the diameter for a three anchor system. Your thoughts?



Could you describe what the leveling issue was and how you resolved it?



Thanks

Bart

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "rookieastronomer" fencerdr@...> wrote:

>

> Yes I ordered mine from Losmandy It is the top part of the tripod, no ears for legs but with the ears for the gemini. I used a 1/2 inch concrete anchor to bolt it to the pier. The only issues were leveling it and that it took many months to arrive. Gary

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bartjy" QTMServer@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Folks,

> >

> > Getting all my ducks in a row, need to know if someone sells a concrete pier adapter plate for a G11?

> >

> > Thanks

> > Bart

> >

>







----------------------------

#51053 Jun 2, 2012

Bart,



I put a Losmandy MA adapter on top of a pier plate from backyardobservatories.com. The pier plate attaches to jbolts which you set into the concrete when you pour the concrete into the sonotube. The plate has leveling bolts. I poured a 12" sonotube, used rebar and went down 4' with a "bell" shaped hole for extra ballast. I think it was about 1200lbs of concrete. It is ridiculously solid. The pier is independent of the structure and comes up thru an opening in a wooden floor.





John D

Maryland

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bartjy" QTMServer@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Folks,

>

> Getting all my ducks in a row, need to know if someone sells a concrete pier adapter plate for a G11?

>

> Thanks

> Bart

>



----------------------------

#51480 Aug 17, 2012

I'm planning on pouring a 12'x12' concrete pad with a pier in the middle for my G11. Generally speaking, approximately what size should the footer dimensions be to support a typical pier setup? I'm trying to get a general idea and realize it depends on a several variables. The frost line in this area of the country is about 18" so I was thinking something about the size of at least a cubic yard would be sufficient. What do you think?



----------------------------

#52270 Feb 4 1:29 PM

Does anyone happen to have a pier plate for a G11? Something like this:

www.pierplates.com/products_8600.html



I already have the Losmandy MA adapter so I just need someway to attach it

to a pier.



I would order one from Dan but the 4 week lead time is somewhat of a deal

breaker.



Please email me off list jared (at) mainsequencesoftware.com



Thanks!



*Jared Wellman*

Co-Founder and Developer

www.mainsequencesoftware.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#57155 Mar 22, 2016

I'd build or buy (Dan's top plate) a top plate. You can use terracon screws with epoxy to bind it to the concrete or build a 'adapter' plate that you could change out.



----------------------------

#57156 Mar 22, 2016

Thanks! That is a fine option but Losmandy themselves sell the Meade adapter for $100 which would bolt onto the pier. If I were to buy a solution, I think I'd just buy that. So, I'm really down to: Can I remove this bottom section in which case I think it will attach to my pier top plate just fine or do I buy the Losmandy MA Adapter.

Appreciate the response in any case. Thanks!

Stuart



----------------------------

#57157 Mar 22, 2016

On 3/22/2016 12:24 PM, Stuart Heggiestuart.j.heggie@... [Losmandy_users] wrote:

.All - I have a flat top permanent pier in myobservatory. I want to put my G11 on it. The pier has a1/2" hole in the top and I have the ability to run a 1/2"bolt up through that hole (this is a Skyshed pier in caseyou know what they look like)..

My G11 has a 1/2" bolt in the bottom that "appears"to hold the lower half of the mount base on. By this, Imean the part that drops down into my G11 tripod top andthat holds the three side bolts to lock it onto thetripod. Also, the brass post that the azimuth adjusterrod passes through would appear to be part of thatassembly..

When removed the centre bolt from the bottom and thetwo lock-down bolts that go in from the top, I got nomovement at all. I realize now that the threaded rodthrough the brass azimuth adjustment post probably wouldneed to come off as well. Is it just stuck or is theremore to this?

Has anyone removed the base on their G11 and doesthe above seem like it would work?



-- Stuart Heggiewww.stuartheggie.com/featured.html



----------------------------

#57158 Mar 22, 2016

Stuart,

The top part of the tripod is sold separately as pier adaptor. I would definitely get one of those, mount it to the pier and then put the G11 onto it securing it with the 3 lateral screws. Actually, this is what I did, but I did not use the center hole of the pier top but to avoid any movement drilled 6 or so blind holes into the 2-inches thick top plate of my pier, tapped them and secured the pier top with those at least 6 screws.

Hope this helps,Stephan

On 22.03.2016, at 17:24, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@... [Losmandy_users] Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



��All - I have a flat top permanent pier in my observatory. I want to put my G11 on it. The pier has a 1/2" hole in the top and I have the ability to run a 1/2" bolt up through that hole (this is a Skyshed pier in case you know what they look like).��

My G11 has a 1/2" bolt in the bottom that "appears" to hold the lower half of the mount base on. By this, I mean the part that drops down into my G11 tripod top and that holds the three side bolts to lock it onto the tripod. Also, the brass post that the azimuth adjuster rod passes through would appear to be part of that assembly.��

When removed the centre bolt from the bottom and the two lock-down bolts that go in from the top, I got no movement at all. I realize now that the threaded rod through the brass azimuth adjustment post probably would need to come off as well. Is it just stuck or is there more to this?

Has anyone removed the base on their G11 and does the above seem like it would work?

-- Stuart Heggiewww.stuartheggie.com/featured.html



----------------------------

#57159 Mar 22, 2016

Jeff, Stephen, thanks. I mentioned that in my reply to mads0100. I think it is the ideal solution for sure. I tried ordering it on-line a few days ago but the form doesn't support orders to Canada. I sent a message to Losmandy via their Contact Us form but have not heard back.

Stephen, you're idea is a good one. I wasn't crazy about a single mounting bolt especially one that is in the centre thus allowing the top part to rotate slightly and ruin my polar alignment. My top plate has lots of tapped holes, I just need to be sure I can line up with them!.

Still kind of curious though if the bottom of the mount comes off because it amounts to the same thing (minus the extra mounting bolts to avoid rotation).

Really appreciate you guys jumping in so quickly!

Stuart







----------------------------

#57160 Mar 22, 2016

Stuart,

I also have a Skyshed pier.I used the Meade LA adapter but found that the arrangement of the holes in the Skyshed pier did not match the Meade adapter. ��After a couple of tries I was able to drill new holes that really lined me up very close to North. ��Since then no problems. ��

John

Sent from my iPad



----------------------------

#57161 Mar 22, 2016

They occasionally show up on Cloudy Nights. There have been three sold

there since the beginning of March for around $70 USD.



Tom





On 3/22/2016 3:15 PM, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@...

[Losmandy_users] wrote: >

>

> Jeff, Stephen, thanks. I mentioned that in my reply to mads0100. I think

> it is the ideal solution for sure. I tried ordering it on-line a few

> days ago but the form doesn't support orders to Canada. I sent a message

> to Losmandy via their Contact Us form but have not heard back.

>

> Stephen, you're idea is a good one. I wasn't crazy about a single

> mounting bolt especially one that is in the centre thus allowing the top

> part to rotate slightly and ruin my polar alignment. My top plate has

> lots of tapped holes, I just need to be sure I can line up with them!

>

> Still kind of curious though if the bottom of the mount comes off

> because it amounts to the same thing (minus the extra mounting bolts to

> avoid rotation).

>

> Really appreciate you guys jumping in so quickly!

>

> Stuart

>

> On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 12:51 PM, Jeff Cymmer jcymm@...

> mailto:jcymm@...> [Losmandy_users] Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:

>

> __

>

> On 3/22/2016 12:24 PM, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@...

> mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...> [Losmandy_users] wrote:

>> All - I have a flat top permanent pier in my observatory. I want

>> to put my G11 on it. The pier has a 1/2" hole in the top and I

>> have the ability to run a 1/2" bolt up through that hole (this is

>> a Skyshed pier in case you know what they look like).

>>

>> My G11 has a 1/2" bolt in the bottom that "appears" to hold the

>> lower half of the mount base on. By this, I mean the part that

>> drops down into my G11 tripod top and that holds the three side

>> bolts to lock it onto the tripod. Also, the brass post that the

>> azimuth adjuster rod passes through would appear to be part of

>> that assembly.

>>

>> When removed the centre bolt from the bottom and the two lock-down

>> bolts that go in from the top, I got no movement at all. I realize

>> now that the threaded rod through the brass azimuth adjustment

>> post probably would need to come off as well. Is it just stuck or

>> is there more to this?

>>

>> Has anyone removed the base on their G11 and does the above seem

>> like it would work?

>>

>> --

>> Stuart Heggie

>> www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html

>> www.stuartheggie.com>

> What you need is a pier adaptor. Its Losmanday part name MA. Look

> for it at www.losmandy.com/access.html Jeff

>

>

>

>

> --

> Stuart Heggie

> www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html www.stuartheggie.com>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#57162 Mar 22, 2016

John, that is very good to know - thanks!

Stuart



----------------------------

#57163 Mar 22, 2016

Tom, thanks! I will look there. I was looking on Astromart but didn't think of CN.

Stuart



----------------------------

#57164 Mar 22, 2016

I just searched for pier adapter on CN. If you have patience ( I

usually do not;-)) one may show up.



Tom



On 3/22/2016 5:53 PM, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@...

[Losmandy_users] wrote: >

>

> Tom, thanks! I will look there. I was looking on Astromart but didn't

> think of CN.

>

> Stuart

>

> On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 4:29 PM, tom loeblt@...

> mailto:loeblt@...> [Losmandy_users]

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>>

> wrote:

>

> __

>

> They occasionally show up on Cloudy Nights. There have been three sold

> there since the beginning of March for around $70 USD.

>

> Tom

>

> On 3/22/2016 3:15 PM, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@...

> mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...>

> [Losmandy_users] wrote:

> >

> >

> > Jeff, Stephen, thanks. I mentioned that in my reply to mads0100. I think

> > it is the ideal solution for sure. I tried ordering it on-line a few

> > days ago but the form doesn't support orders to Canada. I sent a message

> > to Losmandy via their Contact Us form but have not heard back.

> >

> > Stephen, you're idea is a good one. I wasn't crazy about a single

> > mounting bolt especially one that is in the centre thus allowing the top

> > part to rotate slightly and ruin my polar alignment. My top plate has

> > lots of tapped holes, I just need to be sure I can line up with them!

> >

> > Still kind of curious though if the bottom of the mount comes off

> > because it amounts to the same thing (minus the extra mounting bolts to

> > avoid rotation).

> >

> > Really appreciate you guys jumping in so quickly!

> >

> > Stuart

> >

> > On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 12:51 PM, Jeff Cymmerjcymm@... mailto:jcymm@...>

> > mailto:jcymm@... mailto:jcymm@...>> [Losmandy_users]

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> > mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>>> wrote:

> >

> > __

> >

> > On 3/22/2016 12:24 PM, Stuart Heggiestuart.j.heggie@... mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...>

> > mailto:stuart.j.heggie@... mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...>>

> [Losmandy_users] wrote:

> >> All - I have a flat top permanent pier in my observatory. I want

> >> to put my G11 on it. The pier has a 1/2" hole in the top and I

> >> have the ability to run a 1/2" bolt up through that hole (this is

> >> a Skyshed pier in case you know what they look like).

> >>

> >> My G11 has a 1/2" bolt in the bottom that "appears" to hold the

> >> lower half of the mount base on. By this, I mean the part that

> >> drops down into my G11 tripod top and that holds the three side

> >> bolts to lock it onto the tripod. Also, the brass post that the

> >> azimuth adjuster rod passes through would appear to be part of

> >> that assembly.

> >>

> >> When removed the centre bolt from the bottom and the two lock-down

> >> bolts that go in from the top, I got no movement at all. I realize

> >> now that the threaded rod through the brass azimuth adjustment

> >> post probably would need to come off as well. Is it just stuck or

> >> is there more to this?

> >>

> >> Has anyone removed the base on their G11 and does the above seem

> >> like it would work?

> >>

> >> --

> >> Stuart Heggie

> >>www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html

> >> www.stuartheggie.com>

> > What you need is a pier adaptor. Its Losmanday part name MA. Look

> > for it atwww.losmandy.com/access.html Jeff

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > --

> > Stuart Heggie

> > www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html

> www.stuartheggie.com>

> >

> >

> >

>

>

>

>

> --

> Stuart Heggie

> www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html www.stuartheggie.com>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#57165 Mar 22, 2016

Thanks Tom!

On Tuesday, 22 March 2016, tom loeblt@... [Losmandy_users] Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

.I just searched for pier adapter on CN. If you have patience ( I

usually do not;-)) one may show up.



Tom



On 3/22/2016 5:53 PM, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@...

[Losmandy_users] wrote:

>

>

> Tom, thanks! I will look there. I was looking on Astromart but didn't

> think of CN.

>

> Stuart

>

> On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 4:29 PM, tom loeblt@...

> mailto:loeblt@...> [Losmandy_users]

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>>

> wrote:

>

> __

>

> They occasionally show up on Cloudy Nights. There have been three sold

> there since the beginning of March for around $70 USD.

>

> Tom

>

> On 3/22/2016 3:15 PM, Stuart Heggie stuart.j.heggie@...

> mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...>

> [Losmandy_users] wrote:

> >

> >

> > Jeff, Stephen, thanks. I mentioned that in my reply to mads0100. I think

> > it is the ideal solution for sure. I tried ordering it on-line a few

> > days ago but the form doesn't support orders to Canada. I sent a message

> > to Losmandy via their Contact Us form but have not heard back.

> >

> > Stephen, you're idea is a good one. I wasn't crazy about a single

> > mounting bolt especially one that is in the centre thus allowing the top

> > part to rotate slightly and ruin my polar alignment. My top plate has

> > lots of tapped holes, I just need to be sure I can line up with them!

> >

> > Still kind of curious though if the bottom of the mount comes off

> > because it amounts to the same thing (minus the extra mounting bolts to

> > avoid rotation).

> >

> > Really appreciate you guys jumping in so quickly!

> >

> > Stuart

> >

> > On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 12:51 PM, Jeff Cymmerjcymm@... mailto:jcymm@...>

> > mailto:jcymm@... mailto:jcymm@...>> [Losmandy_users]

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> > mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>>> wrote:

> >

> > __

> >

> > On 3/22/2016 12:24 PM, Stuart Heggiestuart.j.heggie@... mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...>

> > mailto:stuart.j.heggie@... mailto:stuart.j.heggie@...>>

> [Losmandy_users] wrote:

> >> All - I have a flat top permanent pier in my observatory. I want

> >> to put my G11 on it. The pier has a 1/2" hole in the top and I

> >> have the ability to run a 1/2" bolt up through that hole (this is

> >> a Skyshed pier in case you know what they look like).

> >>

> >> My G11 has a 1/2" bolt in the bottom that "appears" to hold the

> >> lower half of the mount base on. By this, I mean the part that

> >> drops down into my G11 tripod top and that holds the three side

> >> bolts to lock it onto the tripod. Also, the brass post that the

> >> azimuth adjuster rod passes through would appear to be part of

> >> that assembly.

> >>

> >> When removed the centre bolt from the bottom and the two lock-down

> >> bolts that go in from the top, I got no movement at all. I realize

> >> now that the threaded rod through the brass azimuth adjustment

> >> post probably would need to come off as well. Is it just stuck or

> >> is there more to this?

> >>

> >> Has anyone removed the base on their G11 and does the above seem

> >> like it would work?

> >>

> >> --

> >> Stuart Heggie

> >>www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html

> >> www.stuartheggie.com>

> > What you need is a pier adaptor. Its Losmanday part name MA. Look

> > for it atwww.losmandy.com/access.html Jeff

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > --

> > Stuart Heggie

> > www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html

> www.stuartheggie.com>

> >

> >

> >

>

>

>

>

> --

> Stuart Heggie

> www.stuartheggie.com/featured.html www.stuartheggie.com>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#58063 Oct 18, 2016

Hi all!

This is a slow project, but for the moment it is moving a bit, due to bad weather...;)

I'm planning on constructing a "semi-permanent" pier for my G-11, that is, a pier that I can remove in the summer. I also am planning to be able to remove the G-11 head (take it inside together with the OTA and all electronics), at least until I can build a sufficient weather safe box for it. This leaves me with some considerations about the Gemini control box. THis is normally attached to the part of the mount that I want to leve outside, as part of the pier, while removing the G-11 head.

To try to be clear: I consider using this as the top of the pier: www.losmandy.com/hi-rez-images/ma.jpg

www.losmandy.com/hi-rez-images/ma.jpg







----------------------------

#59539 Jul 4, 2017

Dear Group,I'm thinking of making a Pier Mount for my G11. ��Does anyone know if a fully reinforced concrete mount can be rigid enough for photography? ��I've read that an increasing diameter in a steel pier is the key factor in limiting any movement, but cannot find anything reliable about building a concrete pier. ��If I can achieve my goals in this manner, the mount would sit on a substantial reinforced concrete foundation that would be tied into (rebar) a reinforced concrete pier. ��A steel mounting plate (leveling plate) would be on top of the pier. ��Thank you for any suggestions or information.Charles



----------------------------

#59540 Jul 4, 2017

Google 'pouring a cement pier for telescope' and you'll find a bunch of

sites with directions...



Tom

On 7/4/2017 7:59 PM, camartindell@... [Losmandy_users] wrote:

>

>

> Dear Group,

>

> I'm thinking of making a Pier Mount for my G11. Does anyone know if a

> fully reinforced concrete mount can be rigid enough for photography?

> I've read that an increasing diameter in a steel pier is the key

> factor in limiting any movement, but cannot find anything reliable about

> building a concrete pier. If I can achieve my goals in this manner, the

> mount would sit on a substantial reinforced concrete foundation that

> would be tied into (rebar) a reinforced concrete pier. A steel mounting

> plate (leveling plate) would be on top of the pier. Thank you for any

> suggestions or information.

>

> Charles

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#59541 Jul 4, 2017

Charles, you might look at this website (www.skyshedpod.com) which has a description of a concrete pier topped with a metal pedestal. My pier is set on bedrock and informed with rebar inside a 16in diameter sonic tube. �� It has remained perfectly level since it was put in five years ago. ��My Losmandy Gemini-2 is mounted on the ��metal pedestal with the Meade adapter. ��Have a look and see if it would suit you.

John

Sent from my iPad



----------------------------

#59542 Jul 5, 2017

Charles, ��here is a link to how I built my pier. ��I have had no issues with settling, movement, or vibration.

lulingskies.blogspot.com/p/luling-skies-observatory.html



Tim



----------------------------

#59549 Jul 5, 2017

The pier I built for my observatory had to sit pretty high: the top of the pier is about 6 feet over ground level.. So I built it in a "pancake" style.. First I dug down to hard rock (about 4 feet down for me) about 3 feet in diameter.. I drove some 1/2" rebar "spikes" into the rocks to give the concrete something to grab onto.. The pier itself starts with a 12" diameter sonotube that sits about 30 inches over the "floor" of the hole and goes up just below the floor joists of the observatory.. An 8" sonotube sits over that and goes up the rest of the way.. I ran 3/8" rebar vertically through both the 8" and 12" sonotube, all the way down to the rock at the bottom.

I poured the entire pier in a single go.. As described by others on this thread, work quickly but carefully, tamping down each bag of concrete that goes into the sonotube, to work out all the air pockets...I mounted three 1" galvanized J-bolts on a scrap of plywood in the right positions, and once the concrete was poured, I worked the J-bolts into the top of the pier and used a reciprocating saw without the blade to vibrate the concrete around the bolts.

For the pier mount itself, I went with a DIY-ish approach.. I purchased the "MA" mount base (www.losmandy.com/access.html) and took it to a local machine shop to have three curved slots cut into the base.. Once the concrete was all cured, I mounted the "MA" base directly to the 1" J-bolts (three bolts and the curved slots allow me to get a rough azimuth pointing, and to get the base level).. My G11 mounts directly into the "MA" base.

When I built the observatory, I actually was not planning to do photography, so I went with the smaller 8" pier.. But it turns out that it's rock-solid.. There's absolutely no flex when the telescope moves, and any vibrations damp out in just a second or two.

You can find photos of my observatory build (including photos of pier construction) here:.www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10203217707396020.1073741839.1608608359&type=1&l=202afc61db



----------------------------

#59554 Jul 6, 2017

My G11 sets on a Pier-Tech 2 that is mounted on an 8 foot square, 6 inch deep slab of poured concrete with rebar. The slab is supported by cinder block walls about 12 feet high. The foundation is about 10 cubic yards of concrete. This is all surrounded by a 24 foot by 20 foot deck. Movement on the deck does not transmit to the pier because there is a 1 inch gap all around the cinderblock/concrete column. ��Astrophotography works fine. I think I could dance a jig on the deck and there would be no vibration on the G11. ��Don Knabb



----------------------------

#59584 Jul 8, 2017

I'm planning to have an aluminum pier fabricated for a semi-permanent installation on a concrete pier in my yard.���� I'm thinking of using the threaded SS L-bolts embedded in the concrete to adjust the pier's level and use 6" OD x 1/4" wall aluminum tubing for the pier itself so that the stock G11 mount base will slip in and attach with the same three 1/4x20 thumb bolts used to attach the mount to the tripod - in other words I'm essentially makin a 40 "extension".�� This would make the pier fairly easy to fabricate, light, and as inexpensive as a fabricated aluminum pier can get.�� It seems Losmandy uses 6" OD x 1/4" aluminum tubing on the tripod and their extenders, so it seems like this would work. Has anyone tried this approach?

Larry



----------------------------

#59588 Jul 8, 2017

Just want to thank everyone who responded to my question. ��I feel a lot more confident that I can build a reinforced concrete pier and achieve the results I am hoping for.Charles







----------------------------

#59589 Jul 8, 2017

I built a pier for my G11 out of 6'" aluminum pipe which has a 1/4" wall thickness. I had a local welding shop put a top on it to receive the Losmandy tripod adapter, brackets for the three folding legs and a carrying handle..

The pier weighs about 15 pounds and is more than stable enough to carry my G11, my Meade SN10 loaded with a Nikon D5300, Moonlite focuser, guide scope and camera, finderscope, Telrad and .33 pounds of counterweights. The SN10 in this configuration weighs about 36 pounds. With everything mounted on it, I figure it weighs about 120 pounds in all. The system is rock solid on the ground. I use large fender washers on the legs, which are adjustable with bolts to level it out. It takes less time to set up than the old unwieldy heavy duty Losmandy tripod, is lighter and easier to carry and put in my Jeep.

I built this pier because with SN10 and the G11 on the old tripod, the eyepiece was about 74 inches high, necessitating the use of a ladder. Now the eyepiece is just at the right height for me to use standing up without a ladder.

I could send photos of this setup if anybody is interested.

Steve GaberOldsmar, FL



----------------------------

#59788 Aug 8, 2017

I recently upgraded my G11 mount with the new Titan RA mount. Since the Titan RA requires a larger pier diameter than the G11 RA the pier also needs to be larger. I built my new pier with parts I purchased from the Speedy Metals web site. For my pier I use a 12 in long 7 in diameter aluminum tube and an 8 in square by 1/2 in thick aluminum plate. I paid around $80 for the parts $20 shipping and $25 dollars to have the tube welded to the plate. You will still have to drill the tube and plate to mount the Titan RA ��but for about $125 I couldn't be happier with the results. Below are links to this web site.

www.speedymetals.com/pc-4658-8371-7-od-x-250-wall-tube-6061-t6-aluminum.aspx

www.speedymetals.com/pc-2513-8378-8-sq-6061-t6511-aluminum-extruded.aspx



Tony



----------------------------

#59791 Aug 9, 2017

I attached a picture of the completed pier in the Photos section.

Tony



----------------------------

#60278 Nov 5, 2017

I'm trying to figure out the power requirements needed for my pier.�� In the description of the mount it says��"Dual 12~18 VDC input/output (3.0 A)"�� is that the requirement or the output from the dual connection?�� The other items on the pier are:SBig stt-8300 with filter wheel�� (3.5a)zwo120mm ____?Canon 6D�� (8v, 3a)�� ?????��USB 3.0 powered hub�� (3 amps)QHY polemaster camera�� (0.35W, 70 mA (approx.)

I'm looking for a power supply to have enough amperage to run through a KMTronic usb 8 channel relay board.����

The Canon is another problem.�� ��Any help would be appreciated.����

��I'm trying to manage my cable system to a "WATCH OUT FOR THE WIRES" resolve.�� On my old G-11 I was running a 16v power supply.�� Is 16 volt better than 12 for my new G-11, or is that not the issue the amperage is the issue?����

My scopes on the mount are piggybacked��ES127CFWO 81GTFStellarvue SX50

Thomas GlynnHappy astronomer����Springfield MO



----------------------------

#60280 Nov 5, 2017

Thomas,

Some of the power could be from one power supply, but you might find more noise in your images if your camera shares a "noisy" power supply -- where the noise comes from some other gadget taking supply current in pulses.. .I think your cameras might work better with their own clean power supply...nothing shared..

The other thing we now know about the G11 or other Losmandy mounts is that the motors have more torque and fewer "Lags" warnings if you use the higher end voltage like 16, 17, 18V, instead of like 12V.. .(I recently made a 12V to 17V regulated converter box to boost the supply to the Gemini1,. and that also protects the unit from high voltage glitches too. )

Other than that.... you need to make up a spreadsheet to sum up the current demand at each voltage supply.. Tgen get power supplies at least 1 amp bigger than that..you cant trust today's suppliers to tell the truth (if you ever could).. My USB hubs have AC/DC supplies rated either 12V 1 amp for my USB3, or 5V 1 amp for my USB2. Yours could be different...be careful.

Have fun,

Michael.



----------------------------

#60282 Nov 5, 2017

Hi Thomas

The G11 will be happiest with a voltage somewhere between 15-18v. I use a standard 12v battery and use a 12v upconverter (lots available on amazon, etc.)��

As for power on the pier for the other items, you can look at something like an anderson powerpole distributor

you have to end up building or modifying a lot of your own cables, but I end up with just one cable from the telescope to the ground (where the battery is).��

Canon camera is more tricky, since it isn't really geared for external batteries, the canon accessories are for external AC power.��





B



----------------------------

#60283 Nov 5, 2017

Does the G-11 have the 492 digital drive or a Gemini? If it.s the 492, I.ve measured the power consumption at 250mA when tracking and 400mA slewing at 16x. Nowhere near 3A. And there.s no reason to run a higher voltage on the 492, as the .12V. input is regulated down to 5V.



That USB powered hub doesn.t consume 3A. That rating must be based on powering a bunch of other USB devices from the hub. The hub itself will use an insignificant amount of power, so just add up the the current requirements of whatever is powered from the hub.



For the Canon, you could use a switching regulator to convert 12V to 8V, something like this: www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Adjustable-Transformer/dp/B00C0KL1OM/ www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Adjustable-Transformer/dp/B00C0KL1OM/>

It would need less than 2.5A at 12V input to produce 3A/8V output.



-Les





> On 5 Nov 2017, at 3:40, tglynn72@... [Losmandy_users] Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>

>

>

> I'm trying to figure out the power requirements needed for my pier. In the description of the mount it says

>

> "Dual 12~18 VDC input/output (3.0 A)" is that the requirement or the output from the dual connection? The other items on the pier are:

>

> SBig stt-8300 with filter wheel (3.5a)

>

> zwo120mm ____?

>

> Canon 6D (8v, 3a) ?????

>

> USB 3.0 powered hub (3 amps)

>

> QHY polemaster camera (0.35W, 70 mA (approx.)

>

>

>

> I'm looking for a power supply to have enough amperage to run through a KMTronic usb 8 channel relay board.

>

>

>

> The Canon is another problem. Any help would be appreciated.

>

>

>

> I'm trying to manage my cable system to a "WATCH OUT FOR THE WIRES" resolve. On my old G-! 11 I was running a 16v power supply. Is 16 volt better than 12 for my new G-11, or is that not the issue the amperage is the issue?

>

>

>

> My scopes on the mount are piggybacked

>

> ES127CF

>

> WO 81GTF

>

> Stellarvue SX50

>

>

>

> Thomas Glynn

>

> Happy astronomer

>

> Springfield MO

>

>

>

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#60286 Nov 5, 2017

I think amperage also depends on the load. When I slew a really heavy setup, I see the amps much higher - 2-3Amp ��Thanks ��Brian �� ��Brian ValenteBrianvalentephotography.com

��From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 8:21 AMTo: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Power supply needed on pier.



----------------------------

#60295 Nov 6, 2017

My mount is the G11-G.����

I beleive I can manage my power needs with a 10a supply.�� Just to have a little extra.�� ��

Les, thanks for the link for the Canon switching regulator.����

30V 10A Precision Variable Digital DC Power Supply Adjustable Dual Clip Cable | eBay



$ 43.99





30V 10A Precision Variable Digital DC Power Supply Adjustable Dual Clip Ca...In addition, with small size, it is also easy to install and use. It is worth having! 30V 10A 110V Precision Var...







Thanks for your responses, I am now closer to achieving a better pier set-up

Thomas GlynnSpringfield, MO����



----------------------------

#60715 Jan 12

I''m moving soon and will be giving up my roll-off roof observatory.�� Looking for suggestions on a new permanent pier to install in a Sky Shed Pod.�� I have a G11 that has been on a permanent pier for the last 5 years.�� I love the setup and want to do something similar in my new situation.�� Any help is appreciated.

Dave



----------------------------

#60716 Jan 13

Dave:

I had a Skyshed POD for a couple of years, but have since upgraded to a 10 foot ProDome. In both domes I used a PierTech electric pier with my G-11 in the POD and later with my Paramount MX in the ProDome. They also make a standard model that has a fixed height which is cheaper. I have been very pleased with the sturdiness and quality of the product which is made in suburban Chicago. Check out their website.

Frank Klicar



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