VintageBigBlue.org

 

Re: Astro-Physics Right-Angle Polar Alignment Scope


Sep 21, 2000

 


----------------------------

#451 Sep 21, 2000

I just use my regular adjustable red light, it only takes a couple of minutes to

get polar aligned..not worth the hassles of a permanent setup.



"Ray Porter" ray_porter@...> wrote:

>Has anyone considered modifying the polar scope to accept a standard

>eyepiece illuminator? I've also wondered if it might be possible to just

>modify the part that screws into the polar scope to accept a standard

>illuminator in the end where the LED/power cord normally goes?



Herm

Astropics home.att.net/~hermperez



----------------------------

#461 Sep 22, 2000

I posted this to sct_users and thought posting here would be appropriate as

well. Any thoughts would be appreciated.



Thanks



Eddie Trimarchi

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

www.fan.net.au/~eddiet







-----Original Message-----

From: Eddie Trimarchi [mailto:eddiet@...]

Sent: Friday, 22 September 2000 11:19 PM

To: sct-user@egroups.com

Subject: JMI G11 Polar alignment scope Questions





I have just managed to test out my new JMI G11 polar alignment scope and

have some questions.



Firstly, I am in the southern hemisphere with a limiting mag of between 4 an

5 so the two stars in Octans are pretty dim through the polar scope. I

coloured the led as much as I could with a marker pen to get it dim enough

to see anything other than an incredibly bright map of lines and dashes.



Secondly, is it normal for the polar scope to rotate with the clutch? If I

loosen the clutch, the polar scope retaining ring loosens also and this

loosens the entire scope in it's mounting. Tightening the clutch beyond

where it was when the polar scope retaining ring was tightened just binds

the two together. It seems all wrong but I'm sure the scope is mounted as

intended. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?



Finally, I had as perfect an alignment as possible with the polar scope.

Both alignment stars were perfectly centered in the provided marks, but

objects were drifting in RA and dec at about 30 arcseconds per minute after

PEC training. Seems the polar alignment wasn't that good. Can I get it

better than that? There is no adjustment for the polar scope alignment that

I know of, so I'm wondering..."What if this is as good as it gets?" I'm

hoping not.



Any ideas would be appreciated,



Thanks,



Eddie Trimarchi

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

www.fan.net.au/~eddiet



----------------------------

#464 Sep 24, 2000

Eddie



I spent some time trying to figure this out with my old "Celestron" G11 and

polar scope. I'm not I'm 100% there yet so would be interested in any

responses you get from the SCT folks.



My polar scope is very similar to the JMI version and has an adjustable

position alignment reticle. Using 3 small screws I adjusted the alignment

so the reticle was centred when the polar scope was rotated in the housing.

I had assumed then that when rotating around the polar axis the reticle

would remain centered. It did not. The polar axis was not the same as the

scope axis. I then readjusted the reticle the best I could so that the

reticle was aligned with the polar axis. I get quite a good polar

alignment now. Up to a couple of minutes unguided CCD images are possible

on a decent night. I've had to lock the polar scope in position, so

rotating it mean rotating the whole axis, not just the scope. This can be

a bit awkward sometimes.



Adam





On Sat, 23 Sep 2000 09:59:04 +1000, you wrote:

>-----Original Message-----

>From: Eddie Trimarchi [mailto:eddiet@...]

>Sent: Friday, 22 September 2000 11:19 PM

>To: sct-user@egroups.com

>Subject: JMI G11 Polar alignment scope Questions

>

>

>I have just managed to test out my new JMI G11 polar alignment scope and

>have some questions.



snip



>Secondly, is it normal for the polar scope to rotate with the clutch? If I

>loosen the clutch, the polar scope retaining ring loosens also and this

>loosens the entire scope in it's mounting. Tightening the clutch beyond

>where it was when the polar scope retaining ring was tightened just binds

>the two together. It seems all wrong but I'm sure the scope is mounted as

>intended. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

>

>Finally, I had as perfect an alignment as possible with the polar scope.

>Both alignment stars were perfectly centered in the provided marks, but

>objects were drifting in RA and dec at about 30 arcseconds per minute after

>PEC training. Seems the polar alignment wasn't that good. Can I get it

>better than that? There is no adjustment for the polar scope alignment that

>I know of, so I'm wondering..."What if this is as good as it gets?" I'm

>hoping not.

>

>Any ideas would be appreciated,

>

>Thanks,

>

>Eddie Trimarchi

>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

>www.fan.net.au/~eddiet

>

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>







----------------------------

#504 Sep 28, 2000

Hi Adam,

I didn't get too many responses re this. But I think the final consensus

says to do as accurate a drift alignment as possible, then adjust the

reticle to match.



I did get a couple of replies from people that were just totally

disenchanted with their polar scopes and basically just use them to get a

rough alignment in preparation for drift alignment. Personally, I think they

can do much more than that and should be good enough to get a final polar

alignment accurate enough to do ccd imaging at moderate focal lengths.



I haven't had a chance to align mine yet but I will do in the coming weeks.



Thanks for your response.



Eddie Trimarchi

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

www.fan.net.au/~eddiet







-----Original Message-----

From: Adam Stephens [mailto:adamstephens@...]

Sent: Sunday, 24 September 2000 10:31 PM

To: Losmandy_users@egroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] FW: JMI G11 Polar alignment scope

Questions







Eddie



I spent some time trying to figure this out with my old "Celestron" G11 and

polar scope. I'm not I'm 100% there yet so would be interested in any

responses you get from the SCT folks.



My polar scope is very similar to the JMI version and has an adjustable

position alignment reticle. Using 3 small screws I adjusted the alignment

so the reticle was centred when the polar scope was rotated in the housing.

I had assumed then that when rotating around the polar axis the reticle

would remain centered. It did not. The polar axis was not the same as the

scope axis. I then readjusted the reticle the best I could so that the

reticle was aligned with the polar axis. I get quite a good polar

alignment now. Up to a couple of minutes unguided CCD images are possible

on a decent night. I've had to lock the polar scope in position, so

rotating it mean rotating the whole axis, not just the scope. This can be

a bit awkward sometimes.



Adam





On Sat, 23 Sep 2000 09:59:04 +1000, you wrote:

>-----Original Message-----

>From: Eddie Trimarchi [mailto:eddiet@...]

>Sent: Friday, 22 September 2000 11:19 PM

>To: sct-user@egroups.com

>Subject: JMI G11 Polar alignment scope Questions

>

>

>I have just managed to test out my new JMI G11 polar alignment scope and

>have some questions.



snip



>Secondly, is it normal for the polar scope to rotate with the clutch? If I

>loosen the clutch, the polar scope retaining ring loosens also and this

>loosens the entire scope in it's mounting. Tightening the clutch beyond

>where it was when the polar scope retaining ring was tightened just binds

>the two together. It seems all wrong but I'm sure the scope is mounted as

>intended. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

>

>Finally, I had as perfect an alignment as possible with the polar scope.

>Both alignment stars were perfectly centered in the provided marks, but

>objects were drifting in RA and dec at about 30 arcseconds per minute after

>PEC training. Seems the polar alignment wasn't that good. Can I get it

>better than that? There is no adjustment for the polar scope alignment that

>I know of, so I'm wondering..."What if this is as good as it gets?" I'm

>hoping not.

>

>Any ideas would be appreciated,

>

>Thanks,

>

>Eddie Trimarchi

>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

>www.fan.net.au/~eddiet

>

>

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com



----------------------------

#3141 Mar 10, 2001

When looking through the Polar Alignment Scope, do I need to invert

the orrintation of Polaras and the other pointer stars relative to

the true North Pole like I do in my finder scope? I use TheSky

software package to get me close to the proper alignment when I

begin my Polar alignment process, but I am confussed about how to

interpret the image presented in the alignment scope. Any help would

be appreciated.



Jim



----------------------------

#3144 Mar 10, 2001

Hi Jim, you need to keep both eyes open and align Cassiopeia and the

Big Dipper so that they are superimposed over top of the actual stars

in the sky or as close as possible. This will get you fairly close,

but if you are interested in long exposure imaging you may still need

to drift align the mount to get it even closer. Jim

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., jbrinsfi@l... wrote:

> When looking through the Polar Alignment Scope, do I need to invert

> the orrintation of Polaras and the other pointer stars relative to

> the true North Pole like I do in my finder scope? I use TheSky

> software package to get me close to the proper alignment when I

> begin my Polar alignment process, but I am confussed about how to

> interpret the image presented in the alignment scope. Any help

would

> be appreciated.

>

> Jim







----------------------------

#3145 Mar 10, 2001

Jim,



Take a look in the files section for polar1.pdf

A picture is worth a 1000 words....



Tim

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., jbrinsfi@l... wrote:

> When looking through the Polar Alignment Scope, do I need to invert

> the orrintation of Polaras and the other pointer stars relative to

> the true North Pole like I do in my finder scope? I use TheSky

> software package to get me close to the proper alignment when I

> begin my Polar alignment process, but I am confussed about how to

> interpret the image presented in the alignment scope. Any help

would

> be appreciated.

>

> Jim



----------------------------

#3167 Mar 12, 2001

HiJim:Take a look at: www.eanet.com/kodama/astro/equipmnt/polefind/To make astrophotographyyou have to use star-drift system.��StarrynightsJoseLumbrerasMadridSpain-----Mensaje original-----De: a_potentate@...[mailto:a_potentate@...]Enviado el: domingo 11 de marzo de2001 7:46Para: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.comAsunto:[Losmandy_users] Re: Polar AlignmentScope



Jim,

Take a look in the files sectionfor polar1.pdfA picture is worth a 1000 words....

Tim

--- InLosmandy_users@y..., jbrinsfi@l... wrote: > When looking through the Polar

Alignment Scope, do I need to invert > the orrintation of Polaras and the

other pointer stars relative to > the true North Pole like I do in my

finder scope?�� I use TheSky > software package to get me close to

the proper alignment when I > begin my Polar alignment process, but I am

confussed about how to > interpret the image presented in the alignment

scope.�� Any help would > be appreciated.> >

Jim



Tounsubscribe from this group, send an emailto:Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com



Your useof Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



----------------------------

#10145 May 12, 2002

I have a used G-11 and it's dawning on me that an o-ring or bushing

may be missing on my Polar Alignment scope. Can someone direct me to a

picture of a disassembled PAS or describe the part?



Thanks,

RB



----------------------------

#10146 May 12, 2002

Is it inhibiting how tight you can get your RA clutch? Mine has a

small copper (?) wire spring washer between the lock ring and the lip

around the scope. If the spring washer was a little larger, or I

replace it with a rubber o-ring the finder won't move in so far that

it interferes with the clutch.



Sorry - no pix. Does this help?



Randy

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote:

> I have a used G-11 and it's dawning on me that an o-ring or bushing

> may be missing on my Polar Alignment scope. Can someone direct me

to a

> picture of a disassembled PAS or describe the part?

>

> Thanks,

> RB



----------------------------

#10147 May 12, 2002

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote: > I have a used G-11 and it's dawning on me that an o-ring or bushing

> may be missing on my Polar Alignment scope. Can someone direct me

to a > picture of a disassembled PAS or describe the part?

>

> Thanks,

> RB



Greetings Robert...



Take your led cover screw off so you can take the hold down ring

off. There should be a spring washer between the hold down ring and

the flange on the polar scope.



You may also need a bushing that fits in front of the clutch knob.

If you had a DSC you get it as part of the kit. If the spring washer

doesn't take care of the problem, then bug Scott for the part. You

may be also able to get the bushing from Torrington...



Clear Skies,

Janice Kreidel



P.S. I know exactly what your problem is as my new PAS and G-11 had

neither spring washer or bushing.



----------------------------

#10149 May 13, 2002

Janice and Randy,

Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-ring.

Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the local

hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?



Robert









--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "janicekreidel" janicekreidel@e...>

wrote: > --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote:

> > I have a used G-11 and it's dawning on me that an o-ring or

bushing > > may be missing on my Polar Alignment scope. Can someone direct me

> to a

> > picture of a disassembled PAS or describe the part?

> >

> > Thanks,

> > RB

>

> Greetings Robert...

>

> Take your led cover screw off so you can take the hold down ring

> off. There should be a spring washer between the hold down ring and

> the flange on the polar scope.

>

> You may also need a bushing that fits in front of the clutch knob.

> If you had a DSC you get it as part of the kit. If the spring

washer > doesn't take care of the problem, then bug Scott for the part. You

> may be also able to get the bushing from Torrington...

>

> Clear Skies,

> Janice Kreidel

>

> P.S. I know exactly what your problem is as my new PAS and G-11 had

> neither spring washer or bushing.







----------------------------

#10153 May 13, 2002

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote: > Janice and Randy,

> Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-ring.

> Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the local

> hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?

>

> Robert



Please be aware that there was (still is?) an manufacturing problem

with the p.a. scopes. The silver lockring where the scope tube joins

the rear assembly was manufactured with too large an outer diameter.

As a result, -if- you install the DSCs, it can hit the RA shaft

housing, which will cause the RA shaft to bind if you tighten the

clutch. (It only happens with the DSCs, AFAIK, because this puts the

PA scope further into the tube.)



I discussed this problem with Scott a few years ago, and there are

several solutions:



1) Replace the lockring with something that has a smaller O.D.

2) File down the lockring so that it has a smaller O.D.

3) Insert enough washers or other bushings to provide adequate

clearance (not sure if this will work with the DSCs)

4) Replace the p.a. scope?



The washers and bushings that go between the clutch knob and the p.a.

scope, IIRC, are only there so you can continue to rotate the scope

even with the clutch tightened down. If you RA shaft is binding, it

is not because these are missing, it is likely because you are

experiencing the problem described above.



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold



----------------------------

#10156 May 13, 2002

not very thick, perhaps 1/16".. I would just check for a loosely fitting O-ring

at a hardware store.. or even make it yourself with a piece of #20 wire. You

dont want to lock the polar scope in, you still need to rotate it to align all

the stars.



"rdburns2002" rd-burns@...> wrote:

>Janice and Randy,

>Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-ring.

>Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the local

>hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?

>

>Robert

>



Herm

Astropics home.att.net/~hermperez



----------------------------

#10162 May 13, 2002

Thanks all for the help. I found a 1/16 o-ring and tried it out this

evening. I don't know if the o-ring made all the difference or if I

just lucked out. After polar aligning with the scope, I set up to

drift align with a CCD method -- and it looked like I was right on

without any further adjustment. It's a work day tomorrow, but I took a

bunch of 60 sec integrations on M51 and got round stars. I'm one

happy camper right now!



RB





--- In Losmandy_users@y..., Herm hermperez@w...> wrote:

> not very thick, perhaps 1/16".. I would just check for a loosely

fitting O-ring

> at a hardware store.. or even make it yourself with a piece of #20

wire. You

> dont want to lock the polar scope in, you still need to rotate it to

align all

> the stars.

>

> "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote:

>

> >Janice and Randy,

> >Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-ring.

> >Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the local

> >hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?

> >

> >Robert

> >

>

> Herm

> Astropics home.att.net/~hermperez



----------------------------

#10163 May 13, 2002

Paul,

The silver (white metal?) lock ring was missing, too. I'm considering

a fifth solution; a miniscule drop of locktight on the threads, then

focusing it before the locktight dries. What do ya' think.



By the way, an o-ring seems to have solved the bushing problem. See my

other post.



thanks for your input,

RB

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "psterngold" psterngold@y...> wrote:

> --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote:

> > Janice and Randy,

> > Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-ring.

> > Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the local

> > hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?

> >

> > Robert

>

> Please be aware that there was (still is?) an manufacturing problem

> with the p.a. scopes. The silver lockring where the scope tube joins

> the rear assembly was manufactured with too large an outer diameter.

> As a result, -if- you install the DSCs, it can hit the RA shaft

> housing, which will cause the RA shaft to bind if you tighten the

> clutch. (It only happens with the DSCs, AFAIK, because this puts the

> PA scope further into the tube.)

>

> I discussed this problem with Scott a few years ago, and there are

> several solutions:

>

> 1) Replace the lockring with something that has a smaller O.D.

> 2) File down the lockring so that it has a smaller O.D.

> 3) Insert enough washers or other bushings to provide adequate

> clearance (not sure if this will work with the DSCs)

> 4) Replace the p.a. scope?

>

> The washers and bushings that go between the clutch knob and the

p.a.

> scope, IIRC, are only there so you can continue to rotate the scope

> even with the clutch tightened down. If you RA shaft is binding, it

> is not because these are missing, it is likely because you are

> experiencing the problem described above.

>

> Cheers,

> Paul Sterngold







----------------------------

#10164 May 13, 2002

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote: > Paul,

> The silver (white metal?) lock ring was missing, too. I'm

considering > a fifth solution; a miniscule drop of locktight on the threads,

then > focusing it before the locktight dries. What do ya' think.

>

> By the way, an o-ring seems to have solved the bushing problem. See

my > other post.

>

> thanks for your input,

> RB



Sounds like a good solution to me, RB. I can't imagine that the scope

is going to turn much anyways on those threads, it's not like there's

a lot of vibration in there. g>



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold



----------------------------

#10165 May 14, 2002

This is from a non-optometrist so disregard if it does not apply.



It seems to me that eye focus can change from day to day and, of course,

there is a change if someone is at the scope who wears glasses. Locking

the focus may preclude others from viewing through the polar scope even if

it is ok for you.



Mike



At 05:25 AM 5/14/2002 +0000, you wrote: >Paul,

>The silver (white metal?) lock ring was missing, too. I'm considering

>a fifth solution; a miniscule drop of locktight on the threads, then

>focusing it before the locktight dries. What do ya' think.

>

>By the way, an o-ring seems to have solved the bushing problem. See my

>other post.

>

>thanks for your input,

>RB

>

>--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "psterngold" psterngold@y...> wrote:

> > --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote:

> > > Janice and Randy,

> > > Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-ring.

> > > Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the local

> > > hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?

> > >

> > > Robert

> >

> > Please be aware that there was (still is?) an manufacturing problem

> > with the p.a. scopes. The silver lockring where the scope tube joins

> > the rear assembly was manufactured with too large an outer diameter.

> > As a result, -if- you install the DSCs, it can hit the RA shaft

> > housing, which will cause the RA shaft to bind if you tighten the

> > clutch. (It only happens with the DSCs, AFAIK, because this puts the

> > PA scope further into the tube.)

> >

> > I discussed this problem with Scott a few years ago, and there are

> > several solutions:

> >

> > 1) Replace the lockring with something that has a smaller O.D.

> > 2) File down the lockring so that it has a smaller O.D.

> > 3) Insert enough washers or other bushings to provide adequate

> > clearance (not sure if this will work with the DSCs)

> > 4) Replace the p.a. scope?

> >

> > The washers and bushings that go between the clutch knob and the

>p.a.

> > scope, IIRC, are only there so you can continue to rotate the scope

> > even with the clutch tightened down. If you RA shaft is binding, it

> > is not because these are missing, it is likely because you are

> > experiencing the problem described above.

> >

> > Cheers,

> > Paul Sterngold

>

>

>

>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

>Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#10168 May 14, 2002

Thread lock isn't permanent (at least it's not if you pick the right

one), so if you sell the scope, someone else can adjust it to her

eyesight. Otherwise, it's not an item that you change that much. In

fact, it doesn't require precision focus, and the eye can accomodate

anyways.



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., Michael Rudolph mrudolph@t...> wrote:

> This is from a non-optometrist so disregard if it does not apply.

>

> It seems to me that eye focus can change from day to day and, of

course,

> there is a change if someone is at the scope who wears glasses.

Locking

> the focus may preclude others from viewing through the polar scope

even if

> it is ok for you.

>

> Mike

>

> At 05:25 AM 5/14/2002 +0000, you wrote:

> >Paul,

> >The silver (white metal?) lock ring was missing, too. I'm

considering

> >a fifth solution; a miniscule drop of locktight on the threads,

then

> >focusing it before the locktight dries. What do ya' think.

> >

> >By the way, an o-ring seems to have solved the bushing problem.

See my

> >other post.

> >

> >thanks for your input,

> >RB

> >

> >--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "psterngold" psterngold@y...> wrote:

> > > --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "rdburns2002" rd-burns@t...> wrote:

> > > > Janice and Randy,

> > > > Thanks for the replies. There's neither spring washer nor o-

ring.

> > > > Look's like I need to contact Scott or find a o-ring at the

local

> > > > hardware store. How thick should the o-ring be?

> > > >

> > > > Robert

> > >

> > > Please be aware that there was (still is?) an manufacturing

problem

> > > with the p.a. scopes. The silver lockring where the scope tube

joins

> > > the rear assembly was manufactured with too large an outer

diameter.

> > > As a result, -if- you install the DSCs, it can hit the RA shaft

> > > housing, which will cause the RA shaft to bind if you tighten

the

> > > clutch. (It only happens with the DSCs, AFAIK, because this

puts the

> > > PA scope further into the tube.)

> > >

> > > I discussed this problem with Scott a few years ago, and there

are

> > > several solutions:

> > >

> > > 1) Replace the lockring with something that has a smaller O.D.

> > > 2) File down the lockring so that it has a smaller O.D.

> > > 3) Insert enough washers or other bushings to provide adequate

> > > clearance (not sure if this will work with the DSCs)

> > > 4) Replace the p.a. scope?

> > >

> > > The washers and bushings that go between the clutch knob and the

> >p.a.

> > > scope, IIRC, are only there so you can continue to rotate the

scope

> > > even with the clutch tightened down. If you RA shaft is

binding, it

> > > is not because these are missing, it is likely because you are

> > > experiencing the problem described above.

> > >

> > > Cheers,

> > > Paul Sterngold

> >

> >

> >

> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> >Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

> >

> >

> >

> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#10888 Jul 9, 2002

Subject: Re: Polar alignment redux

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@y..., "gnowellsct" gnowell@n...> wrote:

> > I had a chance to work on my elaborate protocol for aligning the

> > mount and have come to a conclusion.

> >

> > It doesn't work the way it ought to. Moreover, the reason I've ben

> > having good results lately is because Ed Joganic sent me some

> > plastic

> > bushings that do a marvelous job of holding the polar scope steady

> > and getting it closer to its theoretical performance level.

> >

> > I'm not sure why. But if the math guys had figured out a way, there

> > wouldn't be these elaborate T-point systems designed to reduce all

> > the sources of error.

> >

> > I have a hunch that much of the problem lies in the nature of right

> > ascension. I suspect that the reason drift alignment works is

> > because drift alignment as a technique starts with the assumption

> > that you are workingon the celestial equator. That I think is key.

>

> Does this have to do with the refractive index being variable

> throughout the sky?

>

> The plastic washers sound like a winner, any chance of getting ahold

> of some?

>

>

> Tim

> > It is possible that two star gem alignment might work better if

> > objects on the equator are chosen, but I'm beginning to think there

> > is no easy solution here. Well actually the easy solution is Ed

> > Joganic's bushings. I've had pretty damn solid results with those.

> >

> > regards,

> > Greg Nowell

>

> Tim, I machined a set of nylon bushings to center my polar alignment

scope in the polar axis. The bushings are slid into the polar axis, spaced

and cemented there. I think Greg is using them somewhat differently however.

The tolerance is about.001". My polar axis bore is .938 I.D. and the scope

is .905 O.D. This leaves a wall thickness of only .0165 - tricky to machine

accurately as the nylon deforms as it is cut and then recoils a small amount

which is temperature dependant. They would only work in your mount if Scott

cut the polar axis bore to the same diameter and there is absolutely no run

out in the hole. He probably knows the answer to that. You could get a good

idea if it would work in your mount by measuring the bore (dial caliper

would be ideal) and run out (a dial guage). My run out is unmeasureably

small. Scott is a incredible machinest. I'll try to post a few pictures of

how it all goes together within the new few days. Ed Joganic >

---------------

---------------

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#10893 Jul 10, 2002

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Ed Joganic" astron1@m...> wrote:

> Tim, I machined a set of nylon bushings to center my polar

> alignment scope in the polar axis. The bushings are slid into the

> polar axis, spaced and cemented there. I think Greg is using them

> somewhat differently however. The tolerance is about.001". My polar

> axis bore is .938 I.D. and the scope is .905 O.D. This leaves a wall

> thickness of only .0165 - tricky to machine accurately as the nylon



Some trick machining indeed...

> deforms as it is cut and then recoils a small amount which is

> temperature dependant. They would only work in your mount if Scott

> cut the polar axis bore to the same diameter and there is absolutely

> no run out in the hole. He probably knows the answer to that. You

> could get a good idea if it would work in your mount by measuring

> the bore (dial caliper would be ideal) and run out (a dial guage).

> My run out is unmeasureably small. Scott is a incredible machinest.

> I'll try to post a few pictures of how it all goes together within

> the new few days. Ed Joganic



Thanks for the explanation Ed. I'd be interested in your pictures. I

did something similar, I think. I wrapped the PA scope in plumbers

teflon tape to build up the area where it contacts the bore in the

mount. It seems like this work well, the scope doesn't have any side

to side motion and it still rotates easily. But a machined bushing

would be better. Thanks for the information.





Tim

> >

> >

--------------- > >

--------------- > >

> >

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

> >



----------------------------

#11251 Aug 12, 2002

If you have one you no longer need, I'd be interested in hearing from

you

send email to n6rmc@...

Thanks

Bernd



----------------------------

#12236 Oct 9, 2002

The set screws have come loose on my polar finder scope, specifically

the one(s) that hold the reticle in place. Anyone know what size is

the setscrew and the hex key for it?



Thanks in advnace,

Leon Aslan



----------------------------

#12249 Oct 9, 2002

Leon-



I have extra screws and an extra wrench I will let you have. (I

know a good screw is hard to find.) Call me.



Jim Benet

email: jimbenet@...







-----Original Message-----

From: socalastro [mailto:laslan@...]

Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 10:44 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Polar alignment scope - reticle set

screw hex

size??





The set screws have come loose on my polar finder scope,

specifically

the one(s) that hold the reticle in place. Anyone know what size

is

the setscrew and the hex key for it?



Thanks in advnace,

Leon Aslan







---------------

---------------

Home Selling? Try Us!

us.click.yahoo.com/QrPZMC/iTmEAA/MVfIAA/2.XolB/TM

---------------

----~->



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

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----------------------------

#12254 Oct 9, 2002

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "socalastro" laslan@e...> wrote: > The set screws have come loose on my polar finder scope,

specifically > the one(s) that hold the reticle in place. Anyone know what size is

> the setscrew and the hex key for it?



Hi Leon...



I can't really remember what size it is except that good luck finding

a hex key ;-) I think they are 0-80 or 1-72 set screws. I think I

got my hex key from a tool supplier. Forget the hardware stores...



I would suggest you put the scope in a frying pan if you think you

might want to take them out. Otherwise good luck finding them once

they are out.



Clear Skies,

Janice



----------------------------

#12255 Oct 9, 2002

I found the allen wrench at my local Ace hardware. Had to look around a bit, but it was there. As I recall, the size is a .035" which isn't in the standard sets (minimum in these is .050".) They also had a .028" which was too small. They cost about $.50 each.



You might check a well stocked Ace for the set screws. Maybe even an electronics supply house. I don't know the size right off hand.



A note of caution though: it's reported to be *very* easy to crack the reticle if you tighten the screws just a bit too much, and the reticles are a little spendy to replace. A word to wise...



Jim Girard ----- Original Message -----

From: Janice Kreidel

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope - reticle set screw hex size??





I can't really remember what size it is except that good luck finding

a hex key ;-) I think they are 0-80 or 1-72 set screws. I think I

got my hex key from a tool supplier. Forget the hardware stores...









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12258 Oct 10, 2002

I have the same issue, but more importantly, is the reticle going to be

misaligned after tightening? If so, how does one realign it properly?



David Corum



----------------------------

#12260 Oct 10, 2002

David,



You might want to check this link out:



www.losmandy.com/pfinder.htm



Actually, it's kind of scary how similar your name is to the guy who

authored the above document. Maybe he's a long lost cousin who could

provide that elusive genealogical link to a Baron of the Magna

Carte :)



Regards,



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., DAVID CORUM davidcorum@c...> wrote:

> I have the same issue, but more importantly, is the reticle going

to be

> misaligned after tightening? If so, how does one realign it

properly?

>

> David Corum



----------------------------

#12286 Oct 10, 2002

The hex wrench is 0.035". I will give you one tomorrow evening

along with the screws.



Jim Benet

OCA Outreach Coordinator

email: jimbenet@...

phone: (714) 693-1639

:-)







-----Original Message-----

From: Janice Kreidel [mailto:janicekreidel@...]

Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 11:18 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope - reticle set

screw

hex size??



--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "socalastro" laslan@e...> wrote:

> The set screws have come loose on my polar finder scope,

specifically

> the one(s) that hold the reticle in place. Anyone know what

size is

> the setscrew and the hex key for it?



Hi Leon...



I can't really remember what size it is except that good luck

finding

a hex key ;-) I think they are 0-80 or 1-72 set screws. I think

I

got my hex key from a tool supplier. Forget the hardware

stores...



I would suggest you put the scope in a frying pan if you think

you

might want to take them out. Otherwise good luck finding them

once

they are out.



Clear Skies,

Janice





---------------

---------------

Home Selling? Try Us!

us.click.yahoo.com/QrPZMC/iTmEAA/MVfIAA/2.XolB/TM

---------------

----~->



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#12319 Oct 12, 2002

Greetings, list.



I recently picked up a PAS off of Astromart that I'm having a

problem with - specifically, the star images and the reticle do not

focus at the same spot. If the star images are in focus, the

reticle is blurred, and vice versa.



I recall seeing a document within the last month or to that someone

wrote on this, but now can't find it anywhere. Can someone point me

to that document, or make a suggestion on how to fix it? I don't

want to just go tearing into my rather expensive PAS without some

idea of what I need to do.



TIA.



regards,



twhite



----------------------------

#12320 Oct 12, 2002

You might check out www.losmandy.com/pfinder.htm. Not sure if this is what you're refering to.



Jim Girard ----- Original Message -----

From: digitania

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Polar Alignment Scope focus problem





I recall seeing a document within the last month or to that someone

wrote on this, but now can't find it anywhere. Can someone point me

to that document, or make a suggestion on how to fix it? I don't

want to just go tearing into my rather expensive PAS without some

idea of what I need to do.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#12321 Oct 12, 2002

Jim,



That may have been it - it looks familiar, but I thought I rememered

something about a way to fix the wrong magnification problem... do

you or anyone else know of a fix for this, or do I just need to get

a new PAS?



regards,



twhite

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Jim Girard" argo@t...> wrote:

> You might check out www.losmandy.com/pfinder.htm. Not sure

if this is what you're refering to.

>

> Jim Girard

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: digitania

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Polar Alignment Scope focus problem

>

>

> I recall seeing a document within the last month or to that

someone

> wrote on this, but now can't find it anywhere. Can someone

point me

> to that document, or make a suggestion on how to fix it? I

don't

> want to just go tearing into my rather expensive PAS without

some

> idea of what I need to do.

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12322 Oct 12, 2002

twight; tradition has it to focus on reticle by twisting epc till focused on same. now focus on sky (reticle not installed in mount) by twisting objective barrel till it focuses on the sky, best done at night. use lock ring to hold focus.

----- Original Message -----

From: digitania

Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 9:59 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Polar Alignment Scope focus problem



Greetings, list.



I recently picked up a PAS off of Astromart that I'm having a

problem with - specifically, the star images and the reticle do not

focus at the same spot. If the star images are in focus, the

reticle is blurred, and vice versa.



I recall seeing a document within the last month or to that someone

wrote on this, but now can't find it anywhere. Can someone point me

to that document, or make a suggestion on how to fix it? I don't

want to just go tearing into my rather expensive PAS without some

idea of what I need to do.



TIA.



regards,



twhite







To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12323 Oct 12, 2002

Tony,



Look in the files section of this list for a text file on Testing & Adjusting the Polar Axis Finder. Should be at groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Testing%20%20and%20Adjusting%20the%20Losmandy%20Polar%20Finder_a.txt



Jim ----- Original Message -----

From: digitania

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar Alignment Scope focus problem





That may have been it - it looks familiar, but I thought I rememered

something about a way to fix the wrong magnification problem... do

you or anyone else know of a fix for this, or do I just need to get

a new PAS?







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12325 Oct 12, 2002

Jim,



I saw that, and it seems only to discuss how to rectify a PAS with

an alignment problem. Mine seems to be somewhat aligned, but won't

bring both star images and the reticle into focus.



regards,



twhite

--- In Losmandy_users@y..., "Jim Girard" argo@t...> wrote:

> Tony,

>

> Look in the files section of this list for a text file on Testing

& Adjusting the Polar Axis Finder. Should be at

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/files/Testing%20%20and%

20Adjusting%20the%20Losmandy%20Polar%20Finder_a.txt

>

> Jim

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: digitania

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar Alignment Scope focus problem

>

>

> That may have been it - it looks familiar, but I thought I

rememered

> something about a way to fix the wrong magnification problem...

do

> you or anyone else know of a fix for this, or do I just need to

get

> a new PAS?

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12326 Oct 12, 2002

Boy, do I feel stupid now...



I didn't even notice that the barrel was adjustable. It didn't turn

easily, the locking nut was fairly tight. Okay, so it's my first

PAS. :/



Thanks for your reply. Of course, it's cloudy here at the moment

(as it seems to have been for most of the year) but I'll give that a

whirl just as soon as possible.



regards,



twhite







--- In Losmandy_users@y..., dstarquest@m...> wrote:

> twight; tradition has it to focus on reticle by twisting epc till

focused on same. now focus on sky (reticle not installed in mount)

by twisting objective barrel till it focuses on the sky, best done

at night. use lock ring to hold focus.

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: digitania

> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 9:59 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@y...

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Polar Alignment Scope focus problem

>

> Greetings, list.

>

> I recently picked up a PAS off of Astromart that I'm having a

> problem with - specifically, the star images and the reticle do

not

> focus at the same spot. If the star images are in focus, the

> reticle is blurred, and vice versa.

>

> I recall seeing a document within the last month or to that

someone

> wrote on this, but now can't find it anywhere. Can someone point

me

> to that document, or make a suggestion on how to fix it? I don't

> want to just go tearing into my rather expensive PAS without some

> idea of what I need to do.

>

> TIA.

>

> regards,

>

> twhite

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@e...

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#13257 Dec 26, 2002

I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected by

means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help would

be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.



----------------------------

#13262 Dec 27, 2002

Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

question can be answered.



Harold





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

scoper@k...> wrote: > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

by > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

would > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.



----------------------------

#13263 Dec 27, 2002

Harold,



Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided PAS that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two alignment stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am also an unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor Losmandy would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention that it was Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification. Celestron never admitted to the mistake.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: haroldleinbach@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:56

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

> is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

> We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

> question can be answered.

>

> Harold

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

> scoper@k...> wrote:

> > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> > as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

> by

> > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> > to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

> would

> > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#13265 Dec 27, 2002

Hello Harold. If you go to the Losmandy site and click tech/support and then

go to the bottom of the page, you will see using the polar finder(click).

You will see mine first and down the page it tell about the possible

defective scopes. That's mine! Thanks, Mike.



-----Original Message-----

From: oldscoper haroldleinbach@...>

[mailto:haroldleinbach@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 8:56 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

question can be answered.



Harold





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

scoper@k...> wrote: > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

by > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

would > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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----------------------------

#13266 Dec 27, 2002

Hello Don. I had just talked to Scott and he claimed the magnification was

wrong declaring it to be a defective PAS. Celestron will not make it good!!

Did you find a way to align with the one you have? It seems I have had some

pretty accurate tracking when aligning on the lines but consistency ????

Thanks, Mike



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:14 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





Harold,



Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided PAS

that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two alignment

stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am also an

unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor Losmandy

would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention that it was

Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification. Celestron never

admitted to the mistake.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: haroldleinbach@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:56

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

> is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

> We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

> question can be answered.

>

> Harold

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

> scoper@k...> wrote:

> > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> > as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

> by

> > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> > to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

> would

> > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#13267 Dec 27, 2002

Thanks for the clarification, Mike. Kind of leaves you in a bind, if

you have the wrong magnification, does't it? I presume that the

wrong magnification is the result of having an incorrect focal length

eyepiece. I am sorry to hear that Celestron won't take

responsibility.



I see that David Kodama wrote the paper about the polar finder on the

Losmandy web site. Have you tried e-mailing him with your question

about aligning with the wrong magnification? Click on his name at the

top of his paper to get to his webb site and link to his e-mail.



Harold



----------------------------

#13268 Dec 27, 2002

Don is there any way to identify this PAS?



Michael

astroden



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 10:14 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?



Harold,



Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided

PAS that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two

alignment stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am

also an unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor

Losmandy would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention

that it was Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification.

Celestron never admitted to the mistake.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: haroldleinbach@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:56

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

> is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

> We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

> question can be answered.

>

> Harold

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

> scoper@k...> wrote:

> > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> > as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

> by

> > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> > to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

> would

> > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#13269 Dec 27, 2002

Thanks for the advise Harold. I will try the e-mail to David Kodama to see

if there was any cures. Thanks again, Mike.



-----Original Message-----

From: oldscoper haroldleinbach@...>

[mailto:haroldleinbach@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:37 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





Thanks for the clarification, Mike. Kind of leaves you in a bind, if

you have the wrong magnification, does't it? I presume that the

wrong magnification is the result of having an incorrect focal length

eyepiece. I am sorry to hear that Celestron won't take

responsibility.



I see that David Kodama wrote the paper about the polar finder on the

Losmandy web site. Have you tried e-mailing him with your question

about aligning with the wrong magnification? Click on his name at the

top of his paper to get to his webb site and link to his e-mail.



Harold





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Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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----------------------------

#13272 Dec 27, 2002

Mike,



Since the two stars do not land in the gap but along the lines, I just make sure they are both an equal distance from the end of the line. I had also talked to Scott, and even asked if he knew what the focal lengths of the optics used were, but he said he didn't. :-( If I knew what the proper focal lengths were, I could determine whether it was the objective or eyepiece that was at fault.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "mlh918" scoper@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:33

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Hello Don. I had just talked to Scott and he claimed the magnification was

> wrong declaring it to be a defective PAS. Celestron will not make it good!!

> Did you find a way to align with the one you have? It seems I have had some

> pretty accurate tracking when aligning on the lines but consistency ????

> Thanks, Mike

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:14 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> Harold,

>

> Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided PAS

> that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two alignment

> stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am also an

> unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor Losmandy

> would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention that it was

> Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification. Celestron never

> admitted to the mistake.

>

> Don

>







----------------------------

#13273 Dec 27, 2002

Mike,



Not by outward appearance. You need to sight on Polaris ( put it in the gap) and see if the second star lands in the gap or on the line. If it lands on the line it is a defective PAS. My take on the defective PAS is that the magnification is lower than what is needed. Because the two alignment stars are on the lines closer to the center of the FOV, the distance between the two stars is not great enough to span the distance needed to place them in the center of the gaps. If I knew what the focal lengths were for optics of a good PAS, I might find a solution for the problem. Even Scott did not know that answer.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael (Astroden)" michael@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:53

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Don is there any way to identify this PAS?

>

> Michael

> astroden

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 10:14 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

> Harold,

>

> Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided

> PAS that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two

> alignment stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am

> also an unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor

> Losmandy would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention

> that it was Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification.

> Celestron never admitted to the mistake.

>

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: haroldleinbach@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:56

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> > Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

> > is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

> > We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

> > question can be answered.

> >

> > Harold

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

> > scoper@k...> wrote:

> > > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> > > as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

> > by

> > > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> > > to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

> > would

> > > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.

> >

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#13274 Dec 27, 2002

Hello Don and I appreciate all your input. That is how I have been doing the

alignment process for now. I get the two stars equal distance from the ends

and hope for the best. As long as you can see the two stars you are OK. I

guess I will have to use this method until I dish out another bunch of $$$

to get a new one! Thanks again for all your help!!! Mike.



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 1:27 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





Mike,



Since the two stars do not land in the gap but along the lines, I just make

sure they are both an equal distance from the end of the line. I had also

talked to Scott, and even asked if he knew what the focal lengths of the

optics used were, but he said he didn't. :-( If I knew what the proper focal

lengths were, I could determine whether it was the objective or eyepiece

that was at fault.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "mlh918" scoper@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:33

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Hello Don. I had just talked to Scott and he claimed the magnification was

> wrong declaring it to be a defective PAS. Celestron will not make it

good!!

> Did you find a way to align with the one you have? It seems I have had

some

> pretty accurate tracking when aligning on the lines but consistency ????

> Thanks, Mike

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:14 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> Harold,

>

> Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided

PAS

> that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two

alignment

> stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am also an

> unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor Losmandy

> would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention that it

was

> Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification. Celestron

never

> admitted to the mistake.

>

> Don

>







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Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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----------------------------

#13275 Dec 27, 2002

Hello Michael this is Michael with the(C-11) from KCMO. If you have a PAS

laying around call or e-mail me. It is a shame to have all this $$$

equipment and have this ding dong PAS. Nobody seems to want to take care of

the assembly line error!! Talk to you later Michael. Mike Hosek.



-----Original Message-----

From: Michael (Astroden) [mailto:michael@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 11:53 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





Don is there any way to identify this PAS?



Michael

astroden



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 10:14 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?



Harold,



Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided

PAS that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two

alignment stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am

also an unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor

Losmandy would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention

that it was Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification.

Celestron never admitted to the mistake.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: haroldleinbach@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:56

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Mike, I am confused by your message. Do you mean that your reticle

> is different from the Losmandy reticle with the gaps along the lines?

> We need to know exactly what your reticle looks like before your

> question can be answered.

>

> Harold

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "mlh918 scoper@k...>"

> scoper@k...> wrote:

> > I have the PAS that stars line up on the lines rather than the gaps

> > as in the Losmandy site. Does anyone know if this can be corrected

> by

> > means of the reticle set screws or do I just need a new PAS. I hate

> > to have to rely on polar alignment by using the lines! Any help

> would

> > be appreciated! Thanks, Mike.

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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----------------------------

#13276 Dec 27, 2002

Mike,



Sometimes I have to unplug the illuminator to determine if the stars are an equal distance back on the line. If I do find a solution, I will let you know.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "mlh918" scoper@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 14:42

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Hello Don and I appreciate all your input. That is how I have been doing the

> alignment process for now. I get the two stars equal distance from the ends

> and hope for the best. As long as you can see the two stars you are OK. I

> guess I will have to use this method until I dish out another bunch of $$$

> to get a new one! Thanks again for all your help!!! Mike.

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 1:27 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> Mike,

>

> Since the two stars do not land in the gap but along the lines, I just make

> sure they are both an equal distance from the end of the line. I had also

> talked to Scott, and even asked if he knew what the focal lengths of the

> optics used were, but he said he didn't. :-( If I knew what the proper focal

> lengths were, I could determine whether it was the objective or eyepiece

> that was at fault.

>

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "mlh918" scoper@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:33

> Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> > Hello Don. I had just talked to Scott and he claimed the magnification was

> > wrong declaring it to be a defective PAS. Celestron will not make it

> good!!

> > Did you find a way to align with the one you have? It seems I have had

> some

> > pretty accurate tracking when aligning on the lines but consistency ????

> > Thanks, Mike

> >

> > -----Original Message-----

> > From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> > Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:14 AM

> > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

> >

> >

> > Harold,

> >

> > Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided

> PAS

> > that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two

> alignment

> > stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am also an

> > unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor Losmandy

> > would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention that it

> was

> > Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification. Celestron

> never

> > admitted to the mistake.

> >

> > Don

> >

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>







----------------------------

#13277 Dec 27, 2002

Thank you Don!



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 1:51 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





Mike,



Sometimes I have to unplug the illuminator to determine if the stars are an

equal distance back on the line. If I do find a solution, I will let you

know.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "mlh918" scoper@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 14:42

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?





> Hello Don and I appreciate all your input. That is how I have been doing

the

> alignment process for now. I get the two stars equal distance from the

ends

> and hope for the best. As long as you can see the two stars you are OK. I

> guess I will have to use this method until I dish out another bunch of $$$

> to get a new one! Thanks again for all your help!!! Mike.

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 1:27 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> Mike,

>

> Since the two stars do not land in the gap but along the lines, I just

make

> sure they are both an equal distance from the end of the line. I had also

> talked to Scott, and even asked if he knew what the focal lengths of the

> optics used were, but he said he didn't. :-( If I knew what the proper

focal

> lengths were, I could determine whether it was the objective or eyepiece

> that was at fault.

>

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "mlh918" scoper@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:33

> Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

>

>

> > Hello Don. I had just talked to Scott and he claimed the magnification

was

> > wrong declaring it to be a defective PAS. Celestron will not make it

> good!!

> > Did you find a way to align with the one you have? It seems I have had

> some

> > pretty accurate tracking when aligning on the lines but consistency ????

> > Thanks, Mike

> >

> > -----Original Message-----

> > From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

> > Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 9:14 AM

> > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: Polar alignment scope?

> >

> >

> > Harold,

> >

> > Just prior to Celestron not using the G11 as their mount, they provided

> PAS

> > that had the wrong magnification. It shows this defect as the two

> alignment

> > stars not being able to be in the gaps at the same time. I am also an

> > unlucky one that owns one of these PAS and neither Celestron nor

Losmandy

> > would make good on the defective device. I also have to mention that it

> was

> > Scott who diagnosed the problem as the wrong magnification. Celestron

> never

> > admitted to the mistake.

> >

> > Don

> >

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





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Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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----------------------------

#13670 Jan 22, 2003

I borrowed a friends late model Losmandy polar alignment scope and tried to determine the differences between my Celestron brand and the Losmandy.



The Losmandy objective tube is 4.020" in length where the Celestron is 3.675". Both objectives appear to have the same focal length. Both have housings where the reticle is positioned in the same place but they are not quite the same shape. The Losmandy housing has a taper on the eyepiece side of the housing giving it a better appearance.



The eyepiece is where there is a difference. The Losmandy appears to have about 10 - 20% difference in magnification. I did not want to disassemble my friends functional PAS to measure the exact focal length, so what I intend to do is disassemble my eyepiece and measure the first elements focal length and determine if Edmunds Optical has lenses in the same diameter. I will purchase lenses that are 10, 20, and 30% longer and shorter in focal length and see if any can give the PAS the correct magnification. I'm trying to find a solution so those that have the Celestron PAS will be able to make the change easily.



Don







----------------------------

#13672 Jan 22, 2003

Are you talking about the PAS that came with the Celestron/Losmandy mounts!

I have one and there is a trick to using them.Mike.



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 12:26 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification





I borrowed a friends late model Losmandy polar alignment scope and tried to

determine the differences between my Celestron brand and the Losmandy.



The Losmandy objective tube is 4.020" in length where the Celestron is

3.675". Both objectives appear to have the same focal length. Both have

housings where the reticle is positioned in the same place but they are not

quite the same shape. The Losmandy housing has a taper on the eyepiece side

of the housing giving it a better appearance.



The eyepiece is where there is a difference. The Losmandy appears to have

about 10 - 20% difference in magnification. I did not want to disassemble my

friends functional PAS to measure the exact focal length, so what I intend

to do is disassemble my eyepiece and measure the first elements focal length

and determine if Edmunds Optical has lenses in the same diameter. I will

purchase lenses that are 10, 20, and 30% longer and shorter in focal length

and see if any can give the PAS the correct magnification. I'm trying to

find a solution so those that have the Celestron PAS will be able to make

the change easily.



Don





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Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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----------------------------

#13673 Jan 22, 2003

Mike,



I do know about the trick but sometimes when the sky is a little brighter than usual it is hard to use, especially with the illuminator. I want to see if there is any easy fix to make it work properly.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "scoper" scoper@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 13:51

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment Scope with wrong magnification





> Are you talking about the PAS that came with the Celestron/Losmandy mounts!

> I have one and there is a trick to using them.Mike.

>



----------------------------

#13675 Jan 22, 2003

As far as the illuminator, I used a Sharpie black marker and placed a small

black dot on the tip of the red bulb. This helped a bunch in being able to

see the second star. For the misalignment problem, I give great credit to

the one that discovers the fix-it. Mike.



-----Original Message-----

From: Don D'Egidio [mailto:djd521@...]

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 12:59 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification





Mike,



I do know about the trick but sometimes when the sky is a little brighter

than usual it is hard to use, especially with the illuminator. I want to see

if there is any easy fix to make it work properly.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "scoper" scoper@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 13:51

Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification





> Are you talking about the PAS that came with the Celestron/Losmandy

mounts!

> I have one and there is a trick to using them.Mike.

>







To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com







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----------------------------

#13677 Jan 22, 2003

What is the trick?

thanks,

Dan

Suffolk, VA

36.3N

76.8W ----- Original Message -----

From: "Don D'Egidio" djd521@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:59 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification





> Mike,

>

> I do know about the trick but sometimes when the sky is a little brighter

than usual it is hard to use, especially with the illuminator. I want to see

if there is any easy fix to make it work properly.

>

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "scoper" scoper@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 13:51

> Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification

>

>

> > Are you talking about the PAS that came with the Celestron/Losmandy

mounts!

> > I have one and there is a trick to using them.Mike.

> >

>

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







----------------------------

#13678 Jan 22, 2003

Dan,



Use this URL and go to the Gotcha#1. I shows where the stars need to be placed to use the PAS.

www.losmandy.com/pfinder.htm



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "Dan Rodgers" rodgers@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 14:11

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment Scope with wrong magnification





> What is the trick?

> thanks,

> Dan

> Suffolk, VA

> 36.3N

> 76.8W

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Don D'Egidio" djd521@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:59 PM

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

> Scope with wrong magnification

>

>

> > Mike,

> >

> > I do know about the trick but sometimes when the sky is a little brighter

> than usual it is hard to use, especially with the illuminator. I want to see

> if there is any easy fix to make it work properly.

> >

> > Don

> >

> > ----- Original Message -----

> > From: "scoper" scoper@...>

> > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 13:51

> > Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

> Scope with wrong magnification

> >

> >

> > > Are you talking about the PAS that came with the Celestron/Losmandy

> mounts!

> > > I have one and there is a trick to using them.Mike.

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

> >

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#13681 Jan 22, 2003

Done that. Thought that there may be some trick that I was missing.

thanks,

Dan

Suffolk, VA

36.3N

76.8W ----- Original Message -----

From: "Don D'Egidio" djd521@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 2:29 PM

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification





> Dan,

>

> Use this URL and go to the Gotcha#1. I shows where the stars need to be

placed to use the PAS.

> www.losmandy.com/pfinder.htm

>

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Dan Rodgers" rodgers@...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 14:11

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

Scope with wrong magnification

>

>

> > What is the trick?

> > thanks,

> > Dan

> > Suffolk, VA

> > 36.3N

> > 76.8W

> > ----- Original Message -----

> > From: "Don D'Egidio" djd521@...>

> > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:59 PM

> > Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar Alignment

> > Scope with wrong magnification

> >

> >

> > > Mike,

> > >

> > > I do know about the trick but sometimes when the sky is a little

brighter

> > than usual it is hard to use, especially with the illuminator. I want to

see

> > if there is any easy fix to make it work properly.

> > >

> > > Don

> > >

> > > ----- Original Message -----

> > > From: "scoper" scoper@...>

> > > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 13:51

> > > Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] More info about Celestron Polar

Alignment

> > Scope with wrong magnification

> > >

> > >

> > > > Are you talking about the PAS that came with the Celestron/Losmandy

> > mounts!

> > > > I have one and there is a trick to using them.Mike.

> > > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> >

> >

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

>

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>

>

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







----------------------------

#13956 Feb 9 9:02 AM

Is the polar alignment scope that Losmandy make for the G-11

illuminated? If not, does someone make an illuminated polar alignment

scope for the G-11?



Thanks!

-Phil



----------------------------

#13957 Feb 9 9:11 AM

Phil,

They are...... Just bought one from AVA.....



Clear skies,

Bob ----- Original Message -----

From: Phil Jones pcjones@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 12:02 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] polar alignment scope question





Is the polar alignment scope that Losmandy make for the G-11

illuminated? If not, does someone make an illuminated polar alignment

scope for the G-11?



Thanks!

-Phil





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#19037 Feb 9 3:09 PM

HI. I am using a G-11 With Polar alignment scope. I think I purchased

new about 1999.Following the instruction manual I inserted the scope

and tightened the cap enough to where i can still rotate the scope to

center the alignment stars. If I screw the cap to tight I am unable

to rotate the polar scope to align the stars. I do notice that as I

rotate the polar scope it may flinch a little...thus moving the

reticle about 1/4" from what I thought was centered. The cap appears

tight,and the scope appears tight except when rotateing it may move.

Any tips on finding the true centering point and keeping it. I know I

could drift align then backtrack and center the reticle this

way...after proper polar alignment of course...but then what about

next time out and the reticle moves again? I would have to do another

drift alignment.Any solutions on keeping the polar alingment scope

centered and still be able to rotatate the reticle without the

ocassional shift. Thanks, Wayne



----------------------------

#19040 Feb 9 5:10 PM

Hi Wayne,



Well I tighten up the clutch fo the RA axus totally an then insert

the polar scope and tighten the nut as much so I can still rotate the

polar scope. You will always have a certain play which can not taken

out. At least that has been my experience. As far as I have seen it

does not influence the polar aligment so far.



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19043 Feb 9 5:39 PM

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote: > Hi Wayne,

>

> Well I tighten up the clutch fo the RA axus totally an then insert

> the polar scope and tighten the nut as much so I can still rotate

the > polar scope. You will always have a certain play which can not

taken > out. At least that has been my experience. As far as I have seen it

> does not influence the polar aligment so far.

>

> regards

Rainer

HI and thanks.In my case...I have everything near perfect

alignment in the scope.And just as I am making that final last second

fine adjustment to the alignment stars...i very slowly and carefully

rotate the alignment scope and then all of a sudden the alignmet

stars drop or maybe shift to the side a 1/4".Problem is the scope is

centered and the nut is tight.To tighten the nut any further the

scope will not rotate...That is how tight i take in the nut. The

mount is not shifting...the polar scope is.When this happens should I

then readjust the mount? 2 seconds earlier i thought i had what

appeared to be near perfect alignment with the alignment stars.To

readjust the mount again is where I am uncertain. Initially polaris

was centered and then all of a suuden it is no longer centered.Has

anyone else had any similar problems when rotating the polar scope.

Thanks, Wayne



----------------------------

#19044 Feb 9 6:12 PM

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "coopersx2000"

coopersx2000@y...> wrote: > HI. I am using a G-11 With Polar alignment scope. I think I

purchased > new about 1999.Following the instruction manual I inserted the

scope > and tightened the cap enough to where i can still rotate the scope

to > center the alignment stars. If I screw the cap to tight I am

unable > to rotate the polar scope to align the stars. I do notice that as

I > rotate the polar scope it may flinch a little...thus moving the

> reticle about 1/4" from what I thought was centered. The cap

appears > tight,and the scope appears tight except when rotateing it may

move. > Any tips on finding the true centering point and keeping it. I

know I > could drift align then backtrack and center the reticle this

> way...after proper polar alignment of course...but then what about

> next time out and the reticle moves again? I would have to do

another > drift alignment.Any solutions on keeping the polar alingment scope

> centered and still be able to rotatate the reticle without the

> ocassional shift. Thanks, Wayne

Wayne.

If you did not install the extra washer ahead of the clutch knob you

might be bottoming out the poalr scope in it's bore. For the polar

scope to "float" and point accurately the washer must be in place to

set the polar scope back.

Stu







----------------------------

#19045 Feb 9 6:20 PM

HI and thanks.In my case...I have everything near perfect

> alignment in the scope.And just as I am making that final last second

> fine adjustment to the alignment stars...i very slowly and carefully

> rotate the alignment scope and then all of a sudden the alignmet

> stars drop or maybe shift to the side a 1/4".Problem is the scope is

> centered and the nut is tight.To tighten the nut any further the

> scope will not rotate...That is how tight i take in the nut. The

> mount is not shifting...the polar scope is.When this happens should I

> then readjust the mount? 2 seconds earlier i thought i had what

> appeared to be near perfect alignment with the alignment stars.To

> readjust the mount again is where I am uncertain. Initially polaris

> was centered and then all of a suuden it is no longer centered.Has

> anyone else had any similar problems when rotating the polar scope.

> Thanks, Wayne





Yes, and it seems to be mount specific. I have both a G11 and a G8.

I use the same polar scope for each. In the G8, it rotates smoothly

and always stays perfectly aligned--I don't even bother to drift

align. On the G11, I have the exact situation that you describe.

I have not found a solution; I just get it close and then drift align.



Anybody else?



- Shane



--

Shane Ramotowski kor@...



PGP Key ID 0x5B1AE07E available from pgpkeys.mit.edu:11371



----------------------------

#19046 Feb 9 6:32 PM

--- Any solutions on keeping the polar alingment scope > > centered and still be able to rotatate the reticle without the

> > ocassional shift. Thanks, Wayne

> Wayne.

> If you did not install the extra washer ahead of the clutch knob

you > might be bottoming out the poalr scope in it's bore. For the polar

> scope to "float" and point accurately the washer must be in place

to > set the polar scope back.

> Stu Hi Stu and thanks for the help. I just removed the scope for a

better look. My polar alignment scope is 3 pieces...not including the

light or light cover screw.1. the scope. 2.a small ? wavy

washer...very thin...sits between a lip on the scope and the nut that

tightens the scope. If this is the washer you are speaking of I have

it. Now next question is it in the right place. Mine sits between the

nut and the lip on the scope. The washer does not contact the mount.I

asume this the correct placement...just ahead of the clutch knob.

Thanks..if this is not the correct washer pleses let me know. Wayne



----------------------------

#19047 Feb 9 6:47 PM

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "coopersx2000"

coopersx2000@y...> wrote: > --- Any solutions on keeping the polar alingment scope

> > > centered and still be able to rotatate the reticle without the

> > > ocassional shift. Thanks, Wayne

> > Wayne.

> > If you did not install the extra washer ahead of the clutch knob

> you

> > might be bottoming out the poalr scope in it's bore. For the

polar > > scope to "float" and point accurately the washer must be in place

> to

> > set the polar scope back.

> > Stu Hi Stu and thanks for the help. I just removed the scope for

a > better look. My polar alignment scope is 3 pieces...not including

the > light or light cover screw.1. the scope. 2.a small ? wavy

> washer...very thin...sits between a lip on the scope and the nut

that > tightens the scope. If this is the washer you are speaking of I

have > it. Now next question is it in the right place. Mine sits between

the > nut and the lip on the scope. The washer does not contact the

mount.I > asume this the correct placement...just ahead of the (CORRECTION)

lock nut . > Thanks..if this is not the correct washer pleses let me know. Wayne



----------------------------

#19057 Feb 10 7:58 PM

Rainer:



Call Scott and he will send you 2 washers to use with the polar scope.



When I installed mine on my G11, I could not get it tight enough to use without cranking the RA clutch so tight I could not move the mount in RA.



The washers solved the problem. The p/s tightens down so as not to wiggle but still turn and I can use the RA clutch correctly.



No, I do not know why they were not included originally as I bought everything together.



Harry

> If you did not install the extra washer ahead of the clutch knob

you > might be bottoming out the poalr scope in it's bore. For the polar

> scope to "float" and point accurately the washer must be in place

to > set the polar scope back.

> Stu



Hi Stu,



I got my G11 + mt Polsr scope but no additional washers. Am I missing

something too?



What do you mean by



......extra washer ahead of the clutch knob....... ?



and



.....bottoming out the polar scope in it's bore ?



regards Rainer







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----------------------------

#19058 Feb 10 8:06 PM

Hi Harry,



Thanks for the explanation. The problem is that I live in Mexico and

a phone call will cost more than those 2 washers.



Could you, of course when you took out the polar scope, send me a

photo of those washer and where they sit? maybe I can get some here

in Mexico.



Even without those washers I have been able to get quite good polar

alignment to find my first bright star after a cold start. Then I

make several additional alignments and the accuracy is quite good.

Even so if that improves the first accuracy I will put those washers

in.



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19060 Feb 10 11:08 PM

Rainer:



here is some info, sorry about all of the extra stuff.

Don,



Thanks so much. I did try searching the archives, but with all the

discussions of mystery washers and older vs. newer designs and such,

it didn't leave me with a warm definitive feeling.



Your answer is the most definitive I could find...thanks! Hopefully

it will help others as well.



Rick



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Don D'Egidio djd521@c...>

wrote: > Rick,

>

> There was much discussion about the problem months ago. When you do

not have the digital setting circles installed, then polar scope can

contact the bottom of the bored recess in the RA shaft. The solution

is to add more washers on the RA shaft just behind the RA clutch

knob. They are inexpensive and can be ordered from McMaster-Carr,

www.mcmaster.com . >

> The part number for a .125" (1/8") thick washer is 5909K65 at

$2.73, and a .031" (1/32") thick washer is 5909K52 is $1.08. I would

order one of each and to install all you need to do is remove the RA

clutch, making sure the needle bearing and washers remain on the

shaft, then install the new washers and reinstall the RA clutch knob.

That will cure your problem. >

> If you decide to install the digital setting circles, then those

additional washers are not needed. >

> Don

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Rick Krejci" randckrejci@y...>

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 2:18

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Polar scope issues

>

>

> > First, let me introduce myself. My name's Rick Krejci, I live in

> > Scottsdale, AZ and I'm a recent purchaser of a new G11 with

Gemini. > > I've been an avid astrophotographer for a few years with my web

page > > here:

> > www.ricksastro.com

> >

> > OK...now my issue...

> >

> > I bought a Losmandy Polar alignment scope and the 3 pronged

clutch > > knobs (both items that truly should be included with the mount

IMO). > > When the RA clutch is all the way in, the PAS does not go all the

way > > in. Conversely, is the PAS is snugged while the clutch is loose,

I'm > > unable to tighten the clutch all the way, It seems there needs

to be > > another 1/8" washer or something between the clutch and the body,

or > > have a knob which is a bit deeper. This happens with both the

> > default knob and the 3 pronged one.

> >

> > Is this normal?

> >

> > Thanks in advance for your responses. I look forward to

contributing > > to this group as soon as I get my Gemini back from Scott (it

wouldn't > > hold the flash memory when powered down).

> >



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Harry ----- Original Message -----

From: Rainer

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 11:06 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: ? on centering polar alignment scope





Hi Harry,



Thanks for the explanation. The problem is that I live in Mexico and

a phone call will cost more than those 2 washers.



Could you, of course when you took out the polar scope, send me a

photo of those washer and where they sit? maybe I can get some here

in Mexico.



Even without those washers I have been able to get quite good polar

alignment to find my first bright star after a cold start. Then I

make several additional alignments and the accuracy is quite good.

Even so if that improves the first accuracy I will put those washers

in.



regards Rainer





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----------------------------

#19061 Feb 10 11:48 PM

Rainer:



E-Mail Scott about your problem. I understand that he is not real prompt answering e-mails and I find it easier to call him.



But please remember, Telescope Mounts are just Scot's hobby. His business is making tracks and various camera, sound and other track running mounts for the moview industry, so he is a busy man.



I do not take my polor scope out of my mount, no need to once it is installed. In fact I would not want to.



Harry ----- Original Message -----

From: Rainer

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 11:06 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: ? on centering polar alignment scope





Hi Harry,



Thanks for the explanation. The problem is that I live in Mexico and

a phone call will cost more than those 2 washers.



Could you, of course when you took out the polar scope, send me a

photo of those washer and where they sit? maybe I can get some here

in Mexico.



Even without those washers I have been able to get quite good polar

alignment to find my first bright star after a cold start. Then I

make several additional alignments and the accuracy is quite good.

Even so if that improves the first accuracy I will put those washers

in.



regards Rainer





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----------------------------

#19083 Feb 11 7:08 PM

Rainer,



If you had the DSC's installed, you wouldn't have had the problem. :-) Then again, if the bore down the RA shaft was 1/8" deeper, there wouldn't be any problems either.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "Rainer" rsbfoto@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 17:22

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: ? on centering polar alignment scope





> Hi Harry,

>

> It is OK, no problem. Your comment about 2 more washers made me

> curious and I just took off the Polarscope and now I understand what

> you mean. I just can say WHAT A STUPIDITY NOT TO MAKE THE LENGTH OF

> THE RA AXIS 1.5MM SHORTER ! Sorry to say that but it is true.

>

> The more I take a look at my G11 the more little details I begin to

> find which could have been made better, so we, the users, do not have

> those funny and absolutely unnecessary mechanical problems.

>

> Now that I know where the problem is I will get some extra washers.

> While writing this I made a quick washer by myself and now I see what

> was meant.

>

> I am always astonished how much patience the users, we, do have with

> this artifact even after having paid about US $ 2,200.00 without

> Gemini GoTo and $ 3,200.00 with Gemini GoTo.

>

> Do not understand me wrong but I made the experience that the support

> here in the forum is the best one.

>

> I personally prefer not to call Los Angeles. Sorry, but my past

> experiences make me feel and act so.

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#19084 Feb 11 8:23 PM

Rainer:



Please remember that the mount also supports the DSC's (which came before the Gemini by many years) and I understand that this is not a problem if you have them.



From everything i have read, and everyone i have spoken with, the G11 is BY FAR, the best performance and quality you can buy for the money.



You can go pay double for the same load rated mount elseware, but it will not be twice as good as the G11, and will not have it's own set of problems.



Harry ----- Original Message -----

From: Rainer

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 5:23 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: ? on centering polar alignment scope





Hi Harry,



It is OK, no problem. Your comment about 2 more washers made me

curious and I just took off the Polarscope and now I understand what

you mean. I just can say WHAT A STUPIDITY NOT TO MAKE THE LENGTH OF

THE RA AXIS 1.5MM SHORTER ! Sorry to say that but it is true.



The more I take a look at my G11 the more little details I begin to

find which could have been made better, so we, the users, do not have

those funny and absolutely unnecessary mechanical problems.



Now that I know where the problem is I will get some extra washers.

While writing this I made a quick washer by myself and now I see what

was meant.



I am always astonished how much patience the users, we, do have with

this artifact even after having paid about US $ 2,200.00 without

Gemini GoTo and $ 3,200.00 with Gemini GoTo.



Do not understand me wrong but I made the experience that the support

here in the forum is the best one.



I personally prefer not to call Los Angeles. Sorry, but my past

experiences make me feel and act so.



regards Rainer





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----------------------------

#19085 Feb 11 8:34 PM

Rainer:



I have to disagree with you. The G11 is a great mount for the money, with or without the Gemini.



Do not forget that this mount was basically designed to be used with DSC's, and, as I understand it, the polar scope gap is not there with them installed.



You can probably sell your mount if you wish at very little loss and go spend twice as much money on similarly load rated mounts, that will not, I guarentee you, be twice as good as the G11. And it will have it's own st of problems also.



Everything I have read, everyone I have spoken with and my own rather limited experience with my own G11 agree on this.



Have you ever had a really lousy mount? I have. The drive jumps and hooks about every 5 minutes, so long exposure astro-photos are out. It is a spur gear drive, my first scope/mount and I did not know any better.



I think the G11 is GREAT!!!



Harry ----- Original Message -----

From: Rainer

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 5:22 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: ? on centering polar alignment scope





Hi Harry,



It is OK, no problem. Your comment about 2 more washers made me

curious and I just took off the Polarscope and now I understand what

you mean. I just can say WHAT A STUPIDITY NOT TO MAKE THE LENGTH OF

THE RA AXIS 1.5MM SHORTER ! Sorry to say that but it is true.



The more I take a look at my G11 the more little details I begin to

find which could have been made better, so we, the users, do not have

those funny and absolutely unnecessary mechanical problems.



Now that I know where the problem is I will get some extra washers.

While writing this I made a quick washer by myself and now I see what

was meant.



I am always astonished how much patience the users, we, do have with

this artifact even after having paid about US $ 2,200.00 without

Gemini GoTo and $ 3,200.00 with Gemini GoTo.



Do not understand me wrong but I made the experience that the support

here in the forum is the best one.



I personally prefer not to call Los Angeles. Sorry, but my past

experiences make me feel and act so.



regards Rainer







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----------------------------

#19094 Feb 12 6:21 AM

Hi Harry,



I absolutely agree with you too.



So if somebody would have told me that I have to get the DSC's for

not having the problem with the polarscope, I would have bought the

DSC's. Whatever they are :-))



If the designer of the G11 knows that without DSC's the user will not

be able to install the polarscope without problems then he should at

least deliver an additional washer ( US $ 0.25 cost ? ) and explain

where to put that washer in. Later on if the same user buys the DSC

Digital Setting Circles :-)) he can take out the washer



or



increase the price of the G11 by US $ 150.00 and deliver it with the

DSC's already mounted and the problem is solved.



Do not forget one thing. More and more hobby astronomer.s will and

can afford to buy mounts like the G11 and this little problems will

slowly but steadily have an effect on the decision of this buyers.



Also please do not forget that not everybody has the technical

knowledge to solve mechanical problems.



I know that discussing things like this will always upset people

because it is in the human nature to defend what we have bought,

instead of beeing realistic in recognizing where soame faults are and

where not.



I never said that I am unhappy with the G11. It is just those little

nitpicks that from time to time come up and make you bother about

this.



It would be a good idea if the father of the G11 from time to time

takes a look into this forum, he does not need to write anything,

just read what is bothering his customers and takes steps for the

future to avoid thid little annoyances.



What do you think?



I would call this free of charge R&D



best regards Rainer



PD I will not sell my G11 ;-))



----------------------------

#19095 Feb 12 6:46 AM

Hello Rainer. I agree with you, the polar scope should come with an extra

washer or two since they are so cheap. But my G-11 doesn't have DSC's and I

only have the one washer and my polar scope doesn't bottom out, so go

figure.

Ralph



----------------------------

#19098 Feb 12 10:27 AM

Hi Ralph,



and that is exactly my problem too. I have no DSC's.



By the way. Go to any hardware shop and buy a simple washer for 1.25"

diameter, just check taht is has at least 1/16" thickness (about

1.6mm), if it is a little bit more it does not matter.



That is what I did today in the morning. They cost me here in M.xico

MXN 6.00, 2 pieces, about US $ 0.5357 = each US $ .02678



regards Rainer :-))







----------------------------

#19100 Feb 12 1:12 PM

Hi,



and as a documentation of a R&D here the development of a

preliminary, not so nice looking but working PSDW = Polar Scope

Distance Washer



First step not very pretty but worked

tanchipa.ranchosietebohios.org/washer.jpg



Today's advanced new solution, still not pretty but looks already

more professional

tanchipa.ranchosietebohios.org/washer1.jpg



Should I ever exchange the second solution I will keep you updated



;-))))



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19112 Feb 13 2:30 PM

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote: > Hi,

>

> and as a documentation of a R&D here the development of a

> preliminary, not so nice looking but working PSDW = Polar Scope

> Distance Washer

>

> First step not very pretty but worked

> tanchipa.ranchosietebohios.org/washer.jpg

>

> Today's advanced new solution, still not pretty but looks already

> more professional

> tanchipa.ranchosietebohios.org/washer1.jpg



Thanks for the pictures. Kinda thought the washer went somewhere

in that general area.

Wayne





Should I ever exchange the second solution I will keep you updated



;-))))

regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19113 Feb 13 5:20 PM

Thanks for the pictures. Kinda thought the washer went

somewhere > in that general area.

>

Wayne





You are welcome Wayne.



At least it helped somebody in this forum my R&D ;-))



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#19371 Mar 4, 2004

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote: > Sorry guys....I can't find the pictures either through the link or

at the site itself. Any ideas. Would like to see picture of

washers installed as I have a PAS on order...Thanks

Dave

> > Thanks for the pictures. Kinda thought the washer went

> somewhere

> > in that general area.

> >

>

Wayne

>

>

> You are welcome Wayne.

>

> At least it helped somebody in this forum my R&D ;-))

>

> regards Rainer



----------------------------

#23055 Nov 14, 2004

Hi,

I have a GM100 with the original polar alignment scope. This device

mounts on the side of the head and has what I think is the original

reticle.



The mount is from the early 90s. The polar scope has a set of 3

circles where the alignment stars are to be placed. I once owned a GM-

8 with a new polar finder and it had a set of index marks for the 3

alignment stars based on the year, so I am guessing that my reticle

marks are out of date.



I do not as of yet have a guiding eyepiece, so I don't think I can do

an accurate drift alignment and determine the correct 2004

orientation of the stars in the scope. So I wondering if anyone has

worked out where the 3 stars should be on the old finder?



I am looking to get the best polar alignment possible for use with my

setting circles and my DSC. I am not doing any imaging.



Thanks in advance for your help!

Paul G.



----------------------------

#23056 Nov 14, 2004

Paul,



I just used The Sky to check Polaris's coordinates for 1990 and 2005 and found there is a + RA change of 16m 32.5s and + DEC change of 3' 58.3".



Since you are not doing any imaging, the polar finder should work good enough as is.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: "gruenerp" pdgruener@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 9:38

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Older polar alignment scope question





>

>

> Hi,

> I have a GM100 with the original polar alignment scope. This device

> mounts on the side of the head and has what I think is the original

> reticle.

>

> The mount is from the early 90s. The polar scope has a set of 3

> circles where the alignment stars are to be placed. I once owned a GM-

> 8 with a new polar finder and it had a set of index marks for the 3

> alignment stars based on the year, so I am guessing that my reticle

> marks are out of date.

>

> I do not as of yet have a guiding eyepiece, so I don't think I can do

> an accurate drift alignment and determine the correct 2004

> orientation of the stars in the scope. So I wondering if anyone has

> worked out where the 3 stars should be on the old finder?

>

> I am looking to get the best polar alignment possible for use with my

> setting circles and my DSC. I am not doing any imaging.

>

> Thanks in advance for your help!

> Paul G.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#23057 Nov 14, 2004

Paul;



I owned one of the 100 GM-100's from 1991 through 2002. I too had the

original Polar Scope with the circles, in fact it's still in a box next to

me as I write this. What I noted as the years went by was the stars

gradually moved across the circles when correctly Polar Aligned. So long as

all three were positioned the same at all three locations it was pretty

accurate. The problem now is that the small faint stars should now be

pretty close behind the reticle lines making them all but impossible to be

seen. Of course I always Drift Aligned after using the Polar Scope.



The original Polar Scope and the current one used on the Titan are

almost identical mechanically. You might be able to use a current reticle.

'Call' and ask Scott Losmandy if he'll install the latest reticle for

you...joe :)





"May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"



Joe Mize: jmize@...

StarFields Observatory www.cav-sfo.com

Chiefland, FL 29:24'33.4"N 82:51'37.7"W

Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif

----- Original Message -----

From: "gruenerp" pdgruener@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 9:38 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Older polar alignment scope question





>

>

> Hi,

> I have a GM100 with the original polar alignment scope. This device

> mounts on the side of the head and has what I think is the original

> reticle.

>

> The mount is from the early 90s. The polar scope has a set of 3

> circles where the alignment stars are to be placed. I once owned a GM-

> 8 with a new polar finder and it had a set of index marks for the 3

> alignment stars based on the year, so I am guessing that my reticle

> marks are out of date.

>

> I do not as of yet have a guiding eyepiece, so I don't think I can do

> an accurate drift alignment and determine the correct 2004

> orientation of the stars in the scope. So I wondering if anyone has

> worked out where the 3 stars should be on the old finder?

>

> I am looking to get the best polar alignment possible for use with my

> setting circles and my DSC. I am not doing any imaging.

>

> Thanks in advance for your help!

> Paul G.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#23085 Nov 16, 2004

Joe,

Thanks for the input; I will try your suggestion.



Seeing as your old polar scope is right there, I would like to ask

you (everyone) another question :-).



My polar scope fits into a machined cylinder. The machined cylinder

is permanently attached to the mounting dovetail block. There are 6

holes tapped into the cylinder, 3 in the front and 3 towards the

back. Each set of 3 holes is spaced about 120 degrees apart around

the cylinder. Each hole contains a set screw used to hold the polar

finder in place. My polar finder fits into the back of the cylinder

and is secured with the 6 set screws as it points to Polaris. If I

loosen the screws so I can rotate the finder, there is nothing

preventing the polar scope from dropping out the back of the

cylinder.



I am sure that on a cold dark Wisconsin night I will eventually mess

up and watch the polar scope fall to the pavement. Therefore, I have

placed some tape around the end of the polar scope to keep it from

dropping out the back end of the cylinder. It is not pretty, but for

now, it works.



I needed to call Losmany to obtaining a small part and Scott answered

the phone. While we were talking, I asked him about keeping the polar

scope from plummeting out of the cylinder, and he told me that he

made the mounts so long ago, he did not remember how they were built.



Does your polar scope have the 6 holes and the 6 set screws? Is there

something attached on the front of the polar scope that allows it to

rotate, but not fall out the back of the cylinder?



Thanks again,

Paul G.



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "joe" jmize@s...> wrote:

> Paul;

>

> I owned one of the 100 GM-100's from 1991 through 2002. I too

had the

> original Polar Scope with the circles, in fact it's still in a box

next to

> me as I write this. What I noted as the years went by was the

stars

> gradually moved across the circles when correctly Polar Aligned.

So long as

> all three were positioned the same at all three locations it was

pretty

> accurate. The problem now is that the small faint stars should now

be

> pretty close behind the reticle lines making them all but

impossible to be

> seen. Of course I always Drift Aligned after using the Polar Scope.

>

> The original Polar Scope and the current one used on the Titan

are

> almost identical mechanically. You might be able to use a current

reticle.

> 'Call' and ask Scott Losmandy if he'll install the latest reticle

for

> you...joe :)

>

>

> "May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"

>

> Joe Mize: jmize@s...

> StarFields Observatory www.cav-sfo.com

> Chiefland, FL 29:24'33.4"N 82:51'37.7"W

> Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif

>

>







----------------------------

#23086 Nov 16, 2004

Don,

Thank you for the info!

Paul G.



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Don D'Egidio" djd521@c...>

wrote: > Paul,

>

> I just used The Sky to check Polaris's coordinates for 1990 and

2005 and found there is a + RA change of 16m 32.5s and + DEC change

of 3' 58.3". >

> Since you are not doing any imaging, the polar finder should work

good enough as is. >

> Don

>

>



----------------------------

#23099 Nov 17, 2004

Paul;



It sounds as if you or the previous owner may have reassembled it

improperly. I remember I ran into the same problem when I assembled mine

some 10-12yrs ago, so I hope I remember this correctly. Take it all apart,

look at it and think how it needs to be assembled. Reasemble it as a three

piece configration, scope, collar, ring base.



The objective end of the finished assembly, the end which points to the

pole should have the thick collar around the pole scope outside the mounting

ring which has the dovetail. On the eyepiece end the ring containing the

illuminator acts as the other stop. There is about 1/16th" play fore to

aft. Insert the collar on one side of the ring/base, insert the scope from

the other end.



Rotate the whole assembly until you find the locking screw through the

top hole at the eyepiece end of the ring base. I only see 'one' set screw,

it's near the eyepeiece end. I 'thought' there were more reading your eMail

and there may be but I'm not going to tear mine apart to find where they

are.



I too have the six holes, three in front, three in back, all spaced

120deg apart. After I assembled my Polar Scope I put two plastic screws

into the bottom holes at the objective end and another in the top hole at

the "eyepiece end". I only tightened them lightly to align the scope. If

you tighten them too much you cannot rotate the scope. Just tight enough so

there's no back-n-forth movement...joe :)



PS: A trick I almost learned the hard way. "Paint" the screw which goes

into the illuminator hole with white fingernail paint. If you drop it a red

flashlight will make it look red against the grey-brown of the grass and

ground. This is good for other small pieces too.





"May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"



Joe Mize: jmize@...

StarFields Observatory www.cav-sfo.com

Chiefland, FL 29:24'33.4"N 82:51'37.7"W

Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif



Chiefland Web Page: www.chiefland.org/

Chiefland Yahoo: groups.yahoo.com/group/Chiefland/

Titan Yahoo: groups.yahoo.com/group/Titan_Mount/

----- Original Message -----

From: "gruenerp" pdgruener@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 7:25 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Older polar alignment scope question, Part 2,

retaining the finderscope???





>

>

> Joe,

> Thanks for the input; I will try your suggestion.

>

> Seeing as your old polar scope is right there, I would like to ask

> you (everyone) another question :-).

>

> My polar scope fits into a machined cylinder. The machined cylinder

> is permanently attached to the mounting dovetail block. There are 6

> holes tapped into the cylinder, 3 in the front and 3 towards the

> back. Each set of 3 holes is spaced about 120 degrees apart around

> the cylinder. Each hole contains a set screw used to hold the polar

> finder in place. My polar finder fits into the back of the cylinder

> and is secured with the 6 set screws as it points to Polaris. If I

> loosen the screws so I can rotate the finder, there is nothing

> preventing the polar scope from dropping out the back of the

> cylinder.

>

> I am sure that on a cold dark Wisconsin night I will eventually mess

> up and watch the polar scope fall to the pavement. Therefore, I have

> placed some tape around the end of the polar scope to keep it from

> dropping out the back end of the cylinder. It is not pretty, but for

> now, it works.

>

> I needed to call Losmany to obtaining a small part and Scott answered

> the phone. While we were talking, I asked him about keeping the polar

> scope from plummeting out of the cylinder, and he told me that he

> made the mounts so long ago, he did not remember how they were built.

>

> Does your polar scope have the 6 holes and the 6 set screws? Is there

> something attached on the front of the polar scope that allows it to

> rotate, but not fall out the back of the cylinder?

>

> Thanks again,

> Paul G.

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "joe" jmize@s...> wrote:

>> Paul;

>>

>> I owned one of the 100 GM-100's from 1991 through 2002. I too

> had the

>> original Polar Scope with the circles, in fact it's still in a box

> next to

>> me as I write this. What I noted as the years went by was the

> stars

>> gradually moved across the circles when correctly Polar Aligned.

> So long as

>> all three were positioned the same at all three locations it was

> pretty

>> accurate. The problem now is that the small faint stars should now

> be

>> pretty close behind the reticle lines making them all but

> impossible to be

>> seen. Of course I always Drift Aligned after using the Polar Scope.

>>

>> The original Polar Scope and the current one used on the Titan

> are

>> almost identical mechanically. You might be able to use a current

> reticle.

>> 'Call' and ask Scott Losmandy if he'll install the latest reticle

> for

>> you...joe :)

>>

>>

>> "May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"

>>

>> Joe Mize: jmize@s...

>> StarFields Observatory www.cav-sfo.com

>> Chiefland, FL 29:24'33.4"N 82:51'37.7"W

>> Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif

>>

>>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#23103 Nov 17, 2004

Joe,

Ah! I got it. You were right, it was put together backwards.

Thanks!!!!

So, did you you just end up keeping the polar scope from your GM100

or do you use it on another mount? Just wondering.

Sincerely,

Paul



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "joe" jmize@s...> wrote:

> Paul;

>

> It sounds as if you or the previous owner may have reassembled

it

> improperly. I remember I ran into the same problem when I

assembled mine

> some 10-12yrs ago, so I hope I remember this correctly. Take it

all apart,

> look at it and think how it needs to be assembled. Reasemble it as

a three

> piece configration, scope, collar, ring base.

>

> The objective end of the finished assembly, the end which

points to the

> pole should have the thick collar around the pole scope outside the

mounting

> ring which has the dovetail. On the eyepiece end the ring

containing the

> illuminator acts as the other stop. There is about 1/16th" play

fore to

> aft. Insert the collar on one side of the ring/base, insert the

scope from

> the other end.

>

> Rotate the whole assembly until you find the locking screw

through the

> top hole at the eyepiece end of the ring base. I only see 'one'

set screw,

> it's near the eyepeiece end. I 'thought' there were more reading

your eMail

> and there may be but I'm not going to tear mine apart to find where

they

> are.

>

> I too have the six holes, three in front, three in back, all

spaced

> 120deg apart. After I assembled my Polar Scope I put two plastic

screws

> into the bottom holes at the objective end and another in the top

hole at

> the "eyepiece end". I only tightened them lightly to align the

scope. If

> you tighten them too much you cannot rotate the scope. Just tight

enough so

> there's no back-n-forth movement...joe :)

>

> PS: A trick I almost learned the hard way. "Paint" the screw

which goes

> into the illuminator hole with white fingernail paint. If you drop

it a red

> flashlight will make it look red against the grey-brown of the

grass and

> ground. This is good for other small pieces too.

>

>

> "May You Go Among The Imperishable Stars"

>

> Joe Mize: jmize@s...

> StarFields Observatory www.cav-sfo.com

> Chiefland, FL 29:24'33.4"N 82:51'37.7"W

> Moon Phase: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/phase.gif

>

> Chiefland Web Page: www.chiefland.org/

> Chiefland Yahoo: groups.yahoo.com/group/Chiefland/

> Titan Yahoo: groups.yahoo.com/group/Titan_Mount/

>

>



----------------------------

#25279 Apr 27, 2005

I do not yet have a polar alignment scope for my G11 and wondered

regarding alternatives. I know that JMI lists a alignment scope for

the G11. Anyone have experience with it or other alternatives to

Losmandy's scope?



Rich Wood



----------------------------

#25280 Apr 27, 2005

Hi Rich,



Why paying US $ 230,00 at JMI if the Losmandy costs US $ 165,00 and it

is the same ?



regards Rainer







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood" astronut1001@y...>

wrote: >

> I do not yet have a polar alignment scope for my G11 and wondered

> regarding alternatives. I know that JMI lists a alignment scope for

> the G11. Anyone have experience with it or other alternatives to

> Losmandy's scope?

>

> Rich Wood



----------------------------

#25283 Apr 27, 2005

Rainer;



Are they the same or is a superior alternative available to the

Losmandy scope? This is what I am trying to find out.



Rich Wood

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote:

>

> Hi Rich,

>

> Why paying US $ 230,00 at JMI if the Losmandy costs US $ 165,00

and it

> is the same ?

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

astronut1001@y...>

> wrote:

> >

> > I do not yet have a polar alignment scope for my G11 and

wondered

> > regarding alternatives. I know that JMI lists a alignment scope

for

> > the G11. Anyone have experience with it or other alternatives

to

> > Losmandy's scope?

> >

> > Rich Wood



----------------------------

#25284 Apr 27, 2005

Hi Rich,



I guess they are the same.



I really do not know what can be better than the one already Losmandy

has.



I have atravelled around with my G11 and the Losmandy polarscope and

have to say that the first alignment with the Losmandy Polar scope I

got was always good enough to get the first star into you eyepiece

reticle after making the first GoTo.



It takes you longer to find polaris in the polarscope at the first

placing down of your scope, then finding the 2 or 3 necessary stars.

This is not because the Polarscope but because the manual aligment

you have to do inplacing your tripod correctly.



regards Rainer





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

astronut1001@y...> wrote: >

> Rainer;

>

> Are they the same or is a superior alternative available to the

> Losmandy scope? This is what I am trying to find out.

>

> Rich Wood

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

wrote: > >

> > Hi Rich,

> >

> > Why paying US $ 230,00 at JMI if the Losmandy costs US $ 165,00

> and it

> > is the same ?

> >

> > regards Rainer

> >

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> astronut1001@y...>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > I do not yet have a polar alignment scope for my G11 and

> wondered

> > > regarding alternatives. I know that JMI lists a alignment

scope > for

> > > the G11. Anyone have experience with it or other alternatives

> to

> > > Losmandy's scope?

> > >

> > > Rich Wood







----------------------------

#25304 Apr 29, 2005

Rainer;



When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during reticle

alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright or

too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask the

question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have read

the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design. If it

was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable LED

illumination on the market.



Rich Wood

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...> wrote:

>

> Hi Rich,

>

> I guess they are the same.

>

> I really do not know what can be better than the one already

Losmandy

> has.

>

> I have atravelled around with my G11 and the Losmandy polarscope

and

> have to say that the first alignment with the Losmandy Polar scope

I

> got was always good enough to get the first star into you eyepiece

> reticle after making the first GoTo.

>

> It takes you longer to find polaris in the polarscope at the first

> placing down of your scope, then finding the 2 or 3 necessary

stars.

> This is not because the Polarscope but because the manual aligment

> you have to do inplacing your tripod correctly.

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> astronut1001@y...> wrote:

> >

> > Rainer;

> >

> > Are they the same or is a superior alternative available to the

> > Losmandy scope? This is what I am trying to find out.

> >

> > Rich Wood

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

> wrote:

> > >

> > > Hi Rich,

> > >

> > > Why paying US $ 230,00 at JMI if the Losmandy costs US $

165,00

> > and it

> > > is the same ?

> > >

> > > regards Rainer

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> > astronut1001@y...>

> > > wrote:

> > > >

> > > > I do not yet have a polar alignment scope for my G11 and

> > wondered

> > > > regarding alternatives. I know that JMI lists a alignment

> scope

> > for

> > > > the G11. Anyone have experience with it or other

alternatives

> > to

> > > > Losmandy's scope?

> > > >

> > > > Rich Wood



----------------------------

#25306 Apr 29, 2005

Rich,

OK, I am a little biased but the polar scope from Losmandy works

great. In less then 5 min I can bring my G-11 out of the house, put it

in the center of my back yard and get an alignment that is good enough

to do 2 min exposures of DSO. The simple answer to the LED brightness,

I have 2 batteries, one is fully charged and the other is almost dead

(one for bright the other for dim). The bright one works great because

I do the alignment then go to set up the rest of the gear, plenty of

time for my eye to re-adjust if it had to.

Chris





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood" astronut1001@y...>

wrote: > Rainer;

>

> When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during reticle

> alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright or

> too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask the

> question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have read

> the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design. If it

> was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable LED

> illumination on the market.

>

> Rich Wood



----------------------------

#25308 Apr 29, 2005

Hi Rich,



What do you want me to tell you ? I have the Losmandy polar scope, I

have seen the JMI which looks exactly the same as Losmandy and I have

not seen any other alternatives. Sorry.



As there are dimm and bright polar scopes iluminators out there, out

there you also have Losmandy G11's that have a periodic error of +-3

arcseconds as well as G11's that have +- 7 arcseconds in periodic

error and the mount costs US $ 3,500.00 and yes there are other more

expensive mounts US $ 12-13K that have the same errors.



and some users :-)) fry servo motors and others do not.



So there are always alternatives.



regards Rainer





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

astronut1001@y...> wrote: > Rainer;

>

> When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during reticle

> alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright or

> too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask the

> question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have read

> the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design. If

it > was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable LED

> illumination on the market.

>

> Rich Wood

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

wrote: > >

> > Hi Rich,

> >

> > I guess they are the same.

> >

> > I really do not know what can be better than the one already

> Losmandy

> > has.

> >

> > I have atravelled around with my G11 and the Losmandy polarscope

> and

> > have to say that the first alignment with the Losmandy Polar

scope > I

> > got was always good enough to get the first star into you

eyepiece > > reticle after making the first GoTo.

> >

> > It takes you longer to find polaris in the polarscope at the

first > > placing down of your scope, then finding the 2 or 3 necessary

> stars.

> > This is not because the Polarscope but because the manual

aligment > > you have to do inplacing your tripod correctly.

> >

> > regards Rainer

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> > astronut1001@y...> wrote:

> > >

> > > Rainer;

> > >

> > > Are they the same or is a superior alternative available to the

> > > Losmandy scope? This is what I am trying to find out.

> > >

> > > Rich Wood

> > >

> > > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@r...>

> > wrote:

> > > >

> > > > Hi Rich,

> > > >

> > > > Why paying US $ 230,00 at JMI if the Losmandy costs US $

> 165,00

> > > and it

> > > > is the same ?

> > > >

> > > > regards Rainer

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> > > astronut1001@y...>

> > > > wrote:

> > > > >

> > > > > I do not yet have a polar alignment scope for my G11 and

> > > wondered

> > > > > regarding alternatives. I know that JMI lists a alignment

> > scope

> > > for

> > > > > the G11. Anyone have experience with it or other

> alternatives

> > > to

> > > > > Losmandy's scope?

> > > > >

> > > > > Rich Wood







----------------------------

#25309 Apr 29, 2005

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood" astronut1001@y...>

wrote: > Rainer;

>

> When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during reticle

> alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright or

> too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask the

> question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have read

> the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design. If it

> was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable LED

> illumination on the market.



Please bear the nature of this forum in mind. People do not, in

general, post about their G-11 working perfectly. Instead, they post

their problems, just like news always being bad, because good news

isn't news.



The view of the world in this forum is badly skewed if you base your

decisions on the postings you read here. So lets try a little straw

poll: how many lurkers have G-11s that work just fine, with no problems?



One reply: me. My non-Gemini G-11 with the Losmandy polar scope works

perfectly, and always has. I use it with a Celestron C8 SCT and with a

5" f8 Synta achromat for visual observation, as well as piggyback and

prime focus photography (both digital and film). I can just barely see

the periodic error, and can polar align it with the scope in about 2

minutes.



Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre

Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."

ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte



----------------------------

#25310 Apr 29, 2005

I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the block a few

times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out the old grease

and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and polar scope on

it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar scopes because

mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the hole, and yes I do

have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the polar scope

problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any problems with the

motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem is no big deal

because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just about perfect

polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the time. I use

mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

Ralph



----------------------------

#25311 Apr 29, 2005

Let's include the GM8 in the poll since it is also a Losmandy mount.

GM8 w/Gemini here. No issues other than not getting to use it enough.

Buck







--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "laurahal42"

laura.halliday@t...> wrote: > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

astronut1001@y...> > wrote:

> > Rainer;

> >

> > When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during

reticle > > alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright

or > > too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask

the > > question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have

read > > the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design.

If it > > was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable

LED > > illumination on the market.

>

> Please bear the nature of this forum in mind. People do not, in

> general, post about their G-11 working perfectly. Instead, they

post > their problems, just like news always being bad, because good news

> isn't news.

>

> The view of the world in this forum is badly skewed if you base

your > decisions on the postings you read here. So lets try a little straw

> poll: how many lurkers have G-11s that work just fine, with no

problems? >

> One reply: me. My non-Gemini G-11 with the Losmandy polar scope

works > perfectly, and always has. I use it with a Celestron C8 SCT and

with a > 5" f8 Synta achromat for visual observation, as well as piggyback

and > prime focus photography (both digital and film). I can just barely

see > the periodic error, and can polar align it with the scope in about

2 > minutes.

>

> Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre

> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."

> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte



----------------------------

#25312 Apr 29, 2005

Ralph





you just described my G11 with gemini exactly right down to the polar

scope wobble. The PAS wobble is in my experience the only item needing

fixing. That wobble thing creates a certain amount of uncertainty. But

otherwise the mount is rock solid and like you said the gotos are

amazingly good. Imaging works great after I drift align the mount . I

haven't been able to figure out that PAC routine but then again I

haven't given it a real hard study either.









jim





On Apr 29, 2005, at 8:14 AM, Ralph wrote:



> I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the block a

> few

> times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out the old

> grease

> and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and polar

> scope on

> it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar scopes

> because

> mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the hole, and

> yes I do

> have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the polar scope

> problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any problems with

> the

> motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem is no

> big deal

> because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just about

> perfect

> polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the time. I

> use

> mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

> Ralph

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

> .. .To visit your group on the web, go to:

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> .

> .. .To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> .

> .. .Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

> Service.

>







----------------------------

#25314 Apr 29, 2005

For one, I'm a very happy G11/Gemini owner. Perfect? No, but an excellent mount for the price. I dare anyone to find a mount that tracks as well as the newer G11 versions for the same price.



FWIW: I've spent countless hours evaluating my mount's performance and PE, and have a total PE near 6". That's +/- 3", which is unbelievable for a $3k mount.



It normally carries a C11 and a ton of accessories: TCF; Pyxis rotator; AO7; ST8+CFW; 90mm finder scope on Losmandy rail system, which is a pretty decent load on it, and I am imaging at f/10 (0.55"/pixel), which is an extreme test of the mount.



The only problems I've ever had with it is in getting PEC to manage the PE--which is something Renee is working on fixing in the next Gemini firmware revision.



That, and some "self-inflicted" issues, of course.... ;-)



Bob

home.comcast.net/~bobbenamati/



-------------- Original message --------------

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> wrote:

> > Rainer;

> >

> > When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during reticle

> > alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright or

> > too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask the

> > question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have read

> > the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design. If it

> > was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable LED

> > illumination on the market.

>

> Please bear the nature of this forum in mind. People do not, in

> general, post about their G-11 working perfectly. Instead, they post

> their problems, just like news always being bad, because good news

> isn't news.

>

> The view of the world in this forum is badly skewed if you base your

> decisions on the postings you read here. So lets try a little straw

> poll: how many lurkers have G-11s that work just fine, with no problems?

>

> One reply: me. My non-Gemini G-11 with the Losmandy polar scope works

> perfectly, and always has. I use it with a Celestron C8 SCT and with a

> 5" f8 Synta achromat for visual observation, as well as piggyback and

> prime focus photography (both digital and film). I can just barely see

> the periodic error, and can polar align it with the scope in about 2

> minutes.

>

> Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre

> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."

> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#25315 Apr 29, 2005

For one, I'm a very happy G11/Gemini owner. Perfect? No, but an excellent mount for the price. I dare anyone to find a mount that tracks as well as the newer G11 versions for the same price.



FWIW: I've spent countless hours evaluating my mount's performance and PE, and have a total PE near 6". That's +/- 3", which is unbelievable for a $3k mount.



It normally carries a C11 and a ton of accessories: TCF; Pyxis rotator; AO7; ST8+CFW; 90mm finder scope on Losmandy rail system, which is a pretty decent load on it, and I am imaging at f/10 (0.55"/pixel), which is an extreme test of the mount.



The only problems I've ever had with it is in getting PEC to manage the PE--which is something Renee is working on fixing in the next Gemini firmware revision.



That, and some "self-inflicted" issues, of course.... ;-)



Bob

home.comcast.net/~bobbenamati/



-------------- Original message --------------

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> wrote:

> > Rainer;

> >

> > When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during reticle

> > alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too bright or

> > too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask the

> > question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have read

> > the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design. If it

> > was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable LED

> > illumination on the market.

>

> Please bear the nature of this forum in mind. People do not, in

> general, post about their G-11 working perfectly. Instead, they post

> their problems, just like news always being bad, because good news

> isn't news.

>

> The view of the world in this forum is badly skewed if you base your

> decisions on the postings you read here. So lets try a little straw

> poll: how many lurkers have G-11s that work just fine, with no problems?

>

> One reply: me. My non-Gemini G-11 with the Losmandy polar scope works

> perfectly, and always has. I use it with a Celestron C8 SCT and with a

> 5" f8 Synta achromat for visual observation, as well as piggyback and

> prime focus photography (both digital and film). I can just barely see

> the periodic error, and can polar align it with the scope in about 2

> minutes.

>

> Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre

> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."

> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#25316 Apr 29, 2005

I have had my Celestron/Losmandy for many years and have NEVER had a

problem with it of any kind..as for the polar scope illuminator I

threw that away and just shine whatever red LED flashl;ight I am

using at the time into the hole with the flashlight on a dim

setting ..what's the big mystry?





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "buck8one2" Buck8one2@c...>

wrote: > Let's include the GM8 in the poll since it is also a Losmandy

mount. > GM8 w/Gemini here. No issues other than not getting to use it

enough. > Buck

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "laurahal42"

> laura.halliday@t...> wrote:

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> astronut1001@y...>

> > wrote:

> > > Rainer;

> > >

> > > When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during

> reticle

> > > alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too

bright > or

> > > too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask

> the

> > > question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have

> read

> > > the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design.

> If it

> > > was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable

> LED

> > > illumination on the market.

> >

> > Please bear the nature of this forum in mind. People do not, in

> > general, post about their G-11 working perfectly. Instead, they

> post

> > their problems, just like news always being bad, because good news

> > isn't news.

> >

> > The view of the world in this forum is badly skewed if you base

> your

> > decisions on the postings you read here. So lets try a little

straw > > poll: how many lurkers have G-11s that work just fine, with no

> problems?

> >

> > One reply: me. My non-Gemini G-11 with the Losmandy polar scope

> works

> > perfectly, and always has. I use it with a Celestron C8 SCT and

> with a

> > 5" f8 Synta achromat for visual observation, as well as piggyback

> and

> > prime focus photography (both digital and film). I can just

barely > see

> > the periodic error, and can polar align it with the scope in

about > 2

> > minutes.

> >

> > Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre

> > Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."

> > ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte



----------------------------

#25317 Apr 29, 2005

Jim,



I was wondering about the PAS wobble too. I've noticed it and have

always felt uneasy about how it affects alignment. If someone has any

ideas on how to resolve this issue I'd be very grateful.



Gary









-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gage

Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 8:54 AM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11? (was:

Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)





Ralph





you just described my G11 with gemini exactly right down to the polar

scope wobble. The PAS wobble is in my experience the only item needing

fixing. That wobble thing creates a certain amount of uncertainty. But

otherwise the mount is rock solid and like you said the gotos are

amazingly good. Imaging works great after I drift align the mount . I

haven't been able to figure out that PAC routine but then again I

haven't given it a real hard study either.









jim





On Apr 29, 2005, at 8:14 AM, Ralph wrote:



> I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the block a

> few

> times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out the old

> grease

> and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and polar

> scope on

> it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar scopes

> because

> mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the hole, and

> yes I do

> have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the polar scope

> problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any problems with

> the

> motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem is no

> big deal

> because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just about

> perfect

> polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the time. I



> use

> mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

> Ralph

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

> .. .To visit your group on the web, go to:

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> .

> .. .To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> .

> .. .Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms

of

> Service.

>











Yahoo! Groups Links







----------------------------

#25319 Apr 29, 2005

Hi Gary,



well perhaps with the collective brainpower of this list we can come up

with some solutions to the problem..





I have thought about using a hard rubber o-ring large enough to fit

around the objective end of the polar-scope but small enough to fit

into the bore hole on the mount. problem is that Im worried that the

o-ring could get stuck between the polarscope and the bore hole once

inserted. Then I would have a problem removing it . Plus an O-ring

might make it difficult to rotate the polar-scope into its proper

alignment if it begins to stick due to ambient temperature changes.

maybe we could engineer some sort of metallic sleeve to fit over the PS

and fit snugly in the bore hole at the same time. That would be the

equivalent of decreasing the diameter of the bore hole or inversely the

same as increasing the diameter of the PS.. has anyone made any

measurements to determine just how much clearance there is between the

PS and the bore hole? Are we only talking about a few thousandths of an

inch or something much larger?





jim





On Apr 29, 2005, at 11:09 AM, Gary Copeland wrote:



> Jim,

>

> I was wondering about the PAS wobble too. I've noticed it and have

> always felt uneasy about how it affects alignment. If someone has any

> ideas on how to resolve this issue I'd be very grateful.

>

> Gary

>

>

> .

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gage

> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 8:54 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11? (was:

> Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)

>

>

> Ralph

>

>

> . you just described my G11 with gemini exactly right down to the

> polar

> scope wobble. The PAS wobble is in my experience the only. item

> needing

> fixing. That wobble thing creates a certain amount of uncertainty. But

> otherwise the mount is rock solid and like you said the gotos are

> amazingly good. Imaging works great. after I drift align the mount ..

> I

> haven't been able to figure out that PAC routine but then again I

> haven't given it a real hard study either.

>

>

>

>

> jim

>

>

>

> On Apr 29, 2005, at 8:14 AM, Ralph wrote:

>

> > I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the block

> a

> > few

> >. times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out the old

> > grease

> >. and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and polar

> > scope on

> >. it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar scopes

> > because

> >. mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the hole, and

> > yes I do

> >. have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the polar

> scope

> >. problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any problems

> with

> > the

> >. motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem is no

> > big deal

> >. because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just about

> > perfect

> >. polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the

> time. I

>

> > use

> >. mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

> >. Ralph

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > ..... . ..... To visit your group on the web, go to:

> > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> > .

> > ..... . ..... To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> > .

> > ..... . ..... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

> Terms

> of

> > Service.

> >

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

> .. .To visit your group on the web, go to:

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> .

> .. .To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> .

> .. .Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

> Service.

>



----------------------------

#25320 Apr 29, 2005

You're talkng thousandths. someone once mentioned using teflon

plumber's tape. regards greg n

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Gage jwgage@u...> wrote:

> Hi Gary,

>

> well perhaps with the collective brainpower of this list we can

come up

> with some solutions to the problem..

>

>

> I have thought about using a hard rubber o-ring large enough to fit

> around the objective end of the polar-scope but small enough to fit

> into the bore hole on the mount. problem is that Im worried that

the

> o-ring could get stuck between the polarscope and the bore hole

once

> inserted. Then I would have a problem removing it . Plus an O-ring

> might make it difficult to rotate the polar-scope into its proper

> alignment if it begins to stick due to ambient temperature

changes.

> maybe we could engineer some sort of metallic sleeve to fit over

the PS

> and fit snugly in the bore hole at the same time. That would be

the

> equivalent of decreasing the diameter of the bore hole or inversely

the

> same as increasing the diameter of the PS.. has anyone made any

> measurements to determine just how much clearance there is between

the

> PS and the bore hole? Are we only talking about a few thousandths

of an

> inch or something much larger?

>

>

> jim

>

>

>

> On Apr 29, 2005, at 11:09 AM, Gary Copeland wrote:

>

> > Jim,

> >

> > I was wondering about the PAS wobble too. I've noticed it and

have

> > always felt uneasy about how it affects alignment. If someone

has any

> > ideas on how to resolve this issue I'd be very grateful.

> >

> > Gary

> >

> >

> > .

> >

> > -----Original Message-----

> > From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gage

> > Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 8:54 AM

> > To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11?

(was:

> > Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)

> >

> >

> > Ralph

> >

> >

> > . you just described my G11 with gemini exactly right down to

the

> > polar

> > scope wobble. The PAS wobble is in my experience the only. item

> > needing

> > fixing. That wobble thing creates a certain amount of

uncertainty. But

> > otherwise the mount is rock solid and like you said the gotos are

> > amazingly good. Imaging works great. after I drift align the

mount ..

> > I

> > haven't been able to figure out that PAC routine but then again I

> > haven't given it a real hard study either.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > jim

> >

> >

> >

> > On Apr 29, 2005, at 8:14 AM, Ralph wrote:

> >

> > > I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the

block

> > a

> > > few

> > >. times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out

the old

> > > grease

> > >. and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and

polar

> > > scope on

> > >. it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar

scopes

> > > because

> > >. mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the

hole, and

> > > yes I do

> > >. have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the

polar

> > scope

> > >. problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any

problems

> > with

> > > the

> > >. motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem

is no

> > > big deal

> > >. because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just

about

> > > perfect

> > >. polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the

> > time. I

> >

> > > use

> > >. mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

> > >. Ralph

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > > ..... . ..... To visit your group on the web, go to:

> > > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> > > .

> > > ..... . ..... To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> > > .

> > > ..... . ..... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the

Yahoo!

> > Terms

> > of

> > > Service.

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > .. .To visit your group on the web, go to:

> > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> > .

> > .. .To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> > .

> > .. .Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

Terms of

> > Service.

> >







----------------------------

#25321 Apr 29, 2005

Exactly same story here. I've had a G11 with C11 tube for 2 years.

No problems at all.



In fact my PE is also +/- 2.5" for a total of 5". At this level I

don't even try to do PEC, just guide out the rest and all is good.





Dave





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, bobbenamati@c... wrote:

> For one, I'm a very happy G11/Gemini owner. Perfect? No, but an

excellent mount for the price. I dare anyone to find a mount that

tracks as well as the newer G11 versions for the same price.

>

> FWIW: I've spent countless hours evaluating my mount's

performance and PE, and have a total PE near 6". That's +/- 3",

which is unbelievable for a $3k mount.

>

> It normally carries a C11 and a ton of accessories: TCF; Pyxis

rotator; AO7; ST8+CFW; 90mm finder scope on Losmandy rail system,

which is a pretty decent load on it, and I am imaging at f/10

(0.55"/pixel), which is an extreme test of the mount.

>

> The only problems I've ever had with it is in getting PEC to

manage the PE--which is something Renee is working on fixing in the

next Gemini firmware revision.

>

> That, and some "self-inflicted" issues, of course.... ;-)

>

> Bob

> home.comcast.net/~bobbenamati/

>

> -------------- Original message --------------

>

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Wood"

> > wrote:

> > > Rainer;

> > >

> > > When I read on this site of people breaking reticles during

reticle

> > > alignment and complaints of the LED illuminator being too

bright or

> > > too dim, all of which I have seen recent postings about, I ask

the

> > > question regarding an alternative. From the postings I have

read

> > > the Losmandy polar scope does not sound like an ideal design.

If it

> > > was there would be no alternative battery pack with adjustable

LED

> > > illumination on the market.

> >

> > Please bear the nature of this forum in mind. People do not, in

> > general, post about their G-11 working perfectly. Instead, they

post

> > their problems, just like news always being bad, because good

news

> > isn't news.

> >

> > The view of the world in this forum is badly skewed if you base

your

> > decisions on the postings you read here. So lets try a little

straw

> > poll: how many lurkers have G-11s that work just fine, with no

problems?

> >

> > One reply: me. My non-Gemini G-11 with the Losmandy polar scope

works

> > perfectly, and always has. I use it with a Celestron C8 SCT and

with a

> > 5" f8 Synta achromat for visual observation, as well as

piggyback and

> > prime focus photography (both digital and film). I can just

barely see

> > the periodic error, and can polar align it with the scope in

about 2

> > minutes.

> >

> > Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre

> > Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."

> > ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#25322 Apr 29, 2005

Sheesh..



That answer is so simple, but sounds like the perfect nonsticking made

to fit quick fix that I can do without hurting myself or other innocent

bystanders.. Im gonna try it tonight. ( unless someone else comes up

with an even better quick fix )



thanks Greg



jim





On Apr 29, 2005, at 1:53 PM, gnowellsct wrote:



> You're talkng thousandths.. someone once mentioned using teflon

> plumber's tape.. regards greg n

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, Jim Gage jwgage@u...> wrote:

> > Hi Gary,

> >

> > well perhaps with the collective brainpower of this list we can

> come up

> > with some solutions to the problem..

> >

> >

> > I have thought about using a hard rubber o-ring large enough to fit

> > around the objective end of the polar-scope but small enough to fit

> > into the bore hole on the mount. problem is that Im worried that

> the

> > o-ring could get stuck between the polarscope and the bore hole

> once

> > inserted. Then I would have a problem removing it . Plus an O-ring

> > might make it difficult to rotate the polar-scope into its proper

> > alignment if it begins to stick due to ambient temperature

> changes..

> > maybe we could engineer some sort of metallic sleeve to fit over

> the PS

> > and fit snugly in the bore hole at the same time.. That would be

> the

> > equivalent of decreasing the diameter of the bore hole or inversely

> the

> > same as increasing the diameter of the PS.... has anyone made any

> > measurements to determine just how much clearance there is between

> the

> > PS and the bore hole? Are we only talking about a few thousandths

> of an

> > inch or something much larger?

> >

> >

> > jim

> >

> >

> >

> > On Apr 29, 2005, at 11:09 AM, Gary Copeland wrote:

> >

> > > Jim,

> > >

> > >. I was wondering about the PAS wobble too. I've noticed it and

> have

> > >. always felt uneasy about how it affects alignment. If someone

> has any

> > >. ideas on how to resolve this issue I'd be very grateful.

> > >

> > >. Gary

> > >

> > >

> > >. .

> > >

> > >. -----Original Message-----

> > >. From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > >. [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gage

> > >. Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 8:54 AM

> > >. To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > >. Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11?

> (was:

> > >. Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)

> > >

> > >

> > >. Ralph

> > >

> > >

> > >. . you just described my G11 with gemini exactly right down to

> the

> > > polar

> > >. scope wobble. The PAS wobble is in my experience the only. item

> > > needing

> > >. fixing. That wobble thing creates a certain amount of

> uncertainty. But

> > >. otherwise the mount is rock solid and like you said the gotos are

> > >. amazingly good. Imaging works great. after I drift align the

> mount ..

> > > I

> > >. haven't been able to figure out that PAC routine but then again I

> > >. haven't given it a real hard study either.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >. jim

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >. On Apr 29, 2005, at 8:14 AM, Ralph wrote:

> > >

> > >. > I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the

> block

> > > a

> > >. > few

> > >. >. times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out

> the old

> > >. > grease

> > >. >. and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and

> polar

> > >. > scope on

> > >. >. it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar

> scopes

> > >. > because

> > >. >. mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the

> hole, and

> > >. > yes I do

> > >. >. have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the

> polar

> > > scope

> > >. >. problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any

> problems

> > > with

> > >. > the

> > >. >. motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem

> is no

> > >. > big deal

> > >. >. because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just

> about

> > >. > perfect

> > >. >. polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the

> > > time. I

> > >

> > >. > use

> > >. >. mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

> > >. >. Ralph

> > >. >

> > >. >

> > >. >

> > >. > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >. > ..... . ..... To visit your group on the web, go to:

> > >. > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> > >. > .

> > >. > ..... . ..... To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > >. > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> > >. > .

> > >. > ..... . ..... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the

> Yahoo!

> > > Terms

> > >. of

> > >. > Service.

> > >. >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >. Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > > ..... . ..... To visit your group on the web, go to:

> > > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> > > .

> > > ..... . ..... To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> > > .

> > > ..... . ..... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

> Terms of

> > > Service.

> > >

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

> .. .To visit your group on the web, go to:

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> .

> .. .To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> .

> .. .Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

> Service.

>







----------------------------

#25323 Apr 29, 2005

I was just about to suggest tape when I saw the response from Greg. I'll

see how that works.

If it's only thousandths of an inch, then we should be able to handle it

this way. The only issue that I have to check on is whether this is

going to be an issue using it on both of my mounts.



Gary



-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gage

Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 1:25 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11? (was:

Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)





Hi Gary,



well perhaps with the collective brainpower of this list we can come up

with some solutions to the problem..





I have thought about using a hard rubber o-ring large enough to fit

around the objective end of the polar-scope but small enough to fit

into the bore hole on the mount. problem is that Im worried that the

o-ring could get stuck between the polarscope and the bore hole once

inserted. Then I would have a problem removing it . Plus an O-ring

might make it difficult to rotate the polar-scope into its proper

alignment if it begins to stick due to ambient temperature changes.

maybe we could engineer some sort of metallic sleeve to fit over the PS

and fit snugly in the bore hole at the same time. That would be the

equivalent of decreasing the diameter of the bore hole or inversely the

same as increasing the diameter of the PS.. has anyone made any

measurements to determine just how much clearance there is between the

PS and the bore hole? Are we only talking about a few thousandths of an

inch or something much larger?





jim





On Apr 29, 2005, at 11:09 AM, Gary Copeland wrote:



> Jim,

>

> I was wondering about the PAS wobble too. I've noticed it and have

> always felt uneasy about how it affects alignment. If someone has any



> ideas on how to resolve this issue I'd be very grateful.

>

> Gary

>

>

> .

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gage

> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 8:54 AM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11?

> (was:

> Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)

>

>

> Ralph

>

>

> . you just described my G11 with gemini exactly right down to the

> polar

> scope wobble. The PAS wobble is in my experience the only. item

> needing

> fixing. That wobble thing creates a certain amount of uncertainty.

But

> otherwise the mount is rock solid and like you said the gotos are

> amazingly good. Imaging works great. after I drift align the mount ..



> I

> haven't been able to figure out that PAC routine but then again I

> haven't given it a real hard study either.

>

>

>

>

> jim

>

>

>

> On Apr 29, 2005, at 8:14 AM, Ralph wrote:

>

> > I have an antique Celestron G11/Gemini. It is been around the block

> a

> > few

> >. times and has a lot of dings and paint chips. I cleaned out the

old

> > grease

> >. and put in the new worms and installed the latest Gemini and polar

> > scope on

> >. it. They must have changed the bore size for the new polar scopes

> > because

> >. mine doesn't stay centered when you spin the scope in the hole,

and

> > yes I do

> >. have all the washers in all the right places. Beside the polar

> scope

> >. problem, the mount works like a champ. I never had any problems

> with

> > the

> >. motors getting hot or burning one up. The polar scope problem is

no

> > big deal

> >. because the PAC routine in the Gemini puts the mount in just about

> > perfect

> >. polar alignment. The gotos are just about dead center all the

> time. I

>

> > use

> >. mine mainly for imaging and I am one happy camper.

> >. Ralph

> >

> >

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > ..... . ..... To visit your group on the web, go to:

> > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> >

> > ..... . ..... To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> > .

> > ..... . ..... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!

> Terms

> of

> > Service.

> >

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

> .. .To visit your group on the web, go to:

> groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/

> .

> .. .To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> .

> .. .Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms

of

> Service.

>











Yahoo! Groups Links







----------------------------

#25327 Apr 29, 2005

Hi Jim,



There is about 0.01" in diameter left between the polar scope and the

RA axis bore.



regards Rainer



----------------------------

#25328 Apr 29, 2005

I had to wrap my POS with electrical tape. It helped a whole bunch, but it

still wobbles just a hair. If I align all 3 stars perfectly, then turn the

polar scope a half a turn and back again, the stars don't exactly line up

again. So it still has some wobble, but at least it is usable. It's close

enough so that when I do a PAC on the Gemini, the star stays in the field of

view after the mount moves. That sleeve idea sounds like a good idea, a lot

better than the tape. I had to use tape on the front and on the back of my

polar finder to get most of the wobble out of it. I originally had the

Celestron polar scope that had the wrong recticle. That one wobbled too. I

went ahead and bought the new polar scope thinking that it would fix both

problems, but it only fixed one, the wobble was still there. If I would have

known that the new polar scope wobbled too, I never would have bought it. I

would have just used the old Celestron polar scope to get close, then just

do a PAC. That is my only gripe with the G11. Other than that, the mount

works great.

Ralph



----------------------------

#25335 Apr 29, 2005

rainer



i checked some teflon tape and got .00355" thk.



tony ----- Original Message -----

From: Rainer

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 6:48 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Straw poll: how good is your G-11? (was: Re: Alternative Polar Alignment Scope?)





Hi Jim,



There is about 0.01" in diameter left between the polar scope and the

RA axis bore.



regards Rainer















---------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/



b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#25357 May 2, 2005

So two wraps and quit. You'll have dramatically reduced wobble. I

guess three wraps if you're feeling adventurous. A very nice

gentleman named Ed Joganic actually machined me some plastic bushings

a couple of years ago but I got cold feet when it came to following

his advice to use Super Glue to put the thing on. I was more newbie

then, I'm more blase now, have to try that out. I definitley am tired

of polar scope wobble.



regards Greg N



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "harley davidson"

astrocnc@t...> wrote: > rainer

>

> i checked some teflon tape and got .00355" thk.

>

> tony

> ----- Original Message -----

>



----------------------------

#27198 Sep 22, 2005

Hi,





I just bought a polar scope for my G11, and used it last night.

First, there is no nylon ring on it, instead there is a waved metal

ring.

When screwed, it still moves back and forth ( I understand it must not

be tight in order to rotate, but...).

Is it supposed to be this way ? because when I align the mount, the

slack induce moves along the RA axis and I am afraid it could

do an erroneous alignment ( the star moves in the reticle when I play

with it ).



Advice please !



Pierre



----------------------------

#27199 Sep 22, 2005

Pierre,



The wavy steel washer is actually a tensioning ring that works much like

the clutches do on your G11. The tighter you thread down on it, the

harder it will be to rotate the polar scope. I don't have any nylon

washers on mine either, and it works just fine. Maybe it is out of

sequence in the assembly? Sorry, but I'm having a difficult time

understanding the rest of your problem. Please give us a little more

information regarding the "slack induce" and "erroneous alignment"?



Mark







"cyberpeter2000" cyberpet75@...>

Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

09/22/2005 08:47 AM

Please respond to

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com





To

Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

cc



Subject

[Losmandy_users] Polar alignment scope













Hi,





I just bought a polar scope for my G11, and used it last night.

First, there is no nylon ring on it, instead there is a waved metal

ring.

When screwed, it still moves back and forth ( I understand it must not

be tight in order to rotate, but...).

Is it supposed to be this way ? because when I align the mount, the

slack induce moves along the RA axis and I am afraid it could

do an erroneous alignment ( the star moves in the reticle when I play

with it ).



Advice please !



Pierre













Yahoo! Groups Links



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#27200 Sep 22, 2005

There may be info at this site that could help



www.aozc64.dsl.pipex.com/astro/g11gemini.ht

m#polar_scope_binding



Dwight



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "cyberpeter2000"

cyberpet75@h...> wrote: > Hi,

>

>

> I just bought a polar scope for my G11, and used it last night.

> First, there is no nylon ring on it, instead there is a waved metal

> ring.

> When screwed, it still moves back and forth ( I understand it must

not > be tight in order to rotate, but...).

> Is it supposed to be this way ? because when I align the mount, the

> slack induce moves along the RA axis and I am afraid it could

> do an erroneous alignment ( the star moves in the reticle when I

play > with it ).

>

> Advice please !

>

> Pierre



----------------------------

#27209 Sep 22, 2005

Found it !....the retainer ring setscrew wasn't unscrewed, so I

thought I had screwed properly the retainer ring because it stopped

screwing...but it wasn't...

simple...Thanks folks !



Pierre

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, m.beale@p... wrote:

> Pierre,

>

> The wavy steel washer is actually a tensioning ring that works

much like

> the clutches do on your G11. The tighter you thread down on it,

the

> harder it will be to rotate the polar scope. I don't have any

nylon

> washers on mine either, and it works just fine. Maybe it is out

of

> sequence in the assembly? Sorry, but I'm having a difficult time

> understanding the rest of your problem. Please give us a little

more

> information regarding the "slack induce" and "erroneous

alignment"?

>

> Mark

>

>

>

> "cyberpeter2000" cyberpet75@h...>

> Sent by: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> 09/22/2005 08:47 AM

> Please respond to

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

>

>

> To

> Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> cc

>

> Subject

> [Losmandy_users] Polar alignment scope

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hi,

>

>

> I just bought a polar scope for my G11, and used it last night.

> First, there is no nylon ring on it, instead there is a waved

metal

> ring.

> When screwed, it still moves back and forth ( I understand it must

not

> be tight in order to rotate, but...).

> Is it supposed to be this way ? because when I align the mount,

the

> slack induce moves along the RA axis and I am afraid it could

> do an erroneous alignment ( the star moves in the reticle when I

play

> with it ).

>

> Advice please !

>

> Pierre

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#28565 Jan 21, 2006

Hi all,



The lamp in my polar alignment scope stopped working just recently.

Anyone know if the bulb is replaceable? I was not able to open the

cylinder housing containing the bulb. Is there some trick to it.

Acutually, it would be nice to get an illuminator that does not need to

have a batter tethered to it, perhaps like some of the selfcontained

finder scope cross hair illuminators. Does anyone know of options

along those lines?



Thanks,

Jim

Livermore CA



----------------------------

#29515 Apr 20, 2006

Recently purchased a 3 year old G-11. Use it with a TEC 140 and SV80 w/

SBIG STV autoguider. I can get all 3 stars in the polarscope and don't

touch the mount. After 30 min I you look in the polarscope again-

should you be able to still align all 3 stars by rotating the

polarscope. When I do this, polaris is on but the other 2 stars are

off?



----------------------------

#29518 Apr 20, 2006

There's 2 possibilities: First, the scope may not be orthagonal with the polar axis.

Second, you may be slightly off target. 10-15 arc minutes of error is not uncommon in a polar scope, although with practice you should be able to get within 5 minutes.



Either of these situations will probably result in the results you got when you rotated the tube. I personally almost always do ccd so I find that the polar scope just isn't enough.



Tom P.



-------------- Original message --------------

From: "kroral" kroral@...>

Recently purchased a 3 year old G-11. Use it with a TEC 140 and SV80 w/

SBIG STV autoguider. I can get all 3 stars in the polarscope and don't

touch the mount. After 30 min I you look in the polarscope again-

should you be able to still align all 3 stars by rotating the

polarscope. When I do this, polaris is on but the other 2 stars are

off?











SPONSORED LINKS Astronomy telescope Tube assembly







YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS



Visit your group "Losmandy_users" on the web.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#29522 Apr 20, 2006

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "kroral" kroral@...> wrote: >

> Recently purchased a 3 year old G-11. Use it with a TEC 140 and SV80

w/ > SBIG STV autoguider. I can get all 3 stars in the polarscope and

don't > touch the mount. After 30 min I you look in the polarscope again-

> should you be able to still align all 3 stars by rotating the

> polarscope. When I do this, polaris is on but the other 2 stars are

> off?

>

Thanks for the info.



----------------------------

#29527 Apr 20, 2006

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, tpicciani@... wrote: >

> There's 2 possibilities: First, the scope may not be orthagonal

with the polar axis.



I assume you're referring to the scope dec axis when you say "scope

axis" but actually, it's totally irrelevant whether or not the dec

axis is orthogonal to the polar axis when doing a polar alignment.

The scope itself doesn't even need to be mounted.

> Second, you may be slightly off target. 10-15 arc minutes of error

is not uncommon in a polar scope, although with practice you should

be able to get within 5 minutes.



Yes, it's possible that you may not be closely polar aligned to

start with, or that you've lost polar alignment after using the

mount. You could start with checking to see of the mount is sinking

into the ground, or that the G11 head is tightly screwed to the

pier, etc.



Bryan

>

> Either of these situations will probably result in the results you

got when you rotated the tube. I personally almost always do ccd so

I find that the polar scope just isn't enough. >

> Tom P.

>

> -------------- Original message --------------

> From: "kroral" kroral@...>

> Recently purchased a 3 year old G-11. Use it with a TEC 140 and

SV80 w/ > SBIG STV autoguider. I can get all 3 stars in the polarscope and

don't > touch the mount. After 30 min I you look in the polarscope again-

> should you be able to still align all 3 stars by rotating the

> polarscope. When I do this, polaris is on but the other 2 stars

are > off?

>

>

>

>

>

> SPONSORED LINKS Astronomy telescope Tube assembly

>

>

>

> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

>

> Visit your group "Losmandy_users" on the web.

>

> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

Service. >

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#29530 Apr 21, 2006

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "ttoadler2000" bputnam@...>

wrote: >

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, tpicciani@ wrote:

> >

> > There's 2 possibilities: First, the scope may not be orthagonal

> with the polar axis.

>

> I assume you're referring to the scope dec axis when you say "scope

> axis" but actually, it's totally irrelevant whether or not the dec

> axis is orthogonal to the polar axis when doing a polar alignment.

> The scope itself doesn't even need to be mounted.

>

> > Second, you may be slightly off target. 10-15 arc minutes of

error > is not uncommon in a polar scope, although with practice you should

> be able to get within 5 minutes.

>

> Yes, it's possible that you may not be closely polar aligned to

> start with, or that you've lost polar alignment after using the

> mount. You could start with checking to see of the mount is sinking

> into the ground, or that the G11 head is tightly screwed to the

> pier, etc.

>

> Bryan

>

> >

> > Either of these situations will probably result in the results

you > got when you rotated the tube. I personally almost always do ccd so

> I find that the polar scope just isn't enough.

> >

> > Tom P.

> > Well- The mount is on concrete and the head was screwed on tight.

The dec axis was also adjusted from the bottom up-so the play in the

dec axis adjustment would not drop.

Bruce R. > > -------------- Original message --------------

> > From: "kroral" kroral@>

> > Recently purchased a 3 year old G-11. Use it with a TEC 140 and

> SV80 w/

> > SBIG STV autoguider. I can get all 3 stars in the polarscope and

> don't

> > touch the mount. After 30 min I you look in the polarscope again-

> > should you be able to still align all 3 stars by rotating the

> > polarscope. When I do this, polaris is on but the other 2 stars

> are

> > off?

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > SPONSORED LINKS Astronomy telescope Tube assembly

> >

> >

> >

> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

> >

> > Visit your group "Losmandy_users" on the web.

> >

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

> > Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

> Service.

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>







----------------------------

#29681 May 8, 2006

Hi Losmandy Users,



I have a standard G-11 with DSC encoders.



Once a polar alignment scope is installed,

will it still be necessary to remove the RA clutch-tightening knob, gear

cover,

and other miscellaneous gaskets and rings in order to polar align?



I am worried about dropping that stuff in the grass.



Thanks very much!

Mark



----------------------------

#29706 May 10, 2006

My sincere thanks to Laura Halliday for answering my question.

While it may be obvious, I hadn't realized that the RA clutch knob

has a removable end cap.

I didn't notice this in any documentation.

Thanks again!

Mark



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Buxbaum"

markbuxbaum@...> wrote: >

> Hi Losmandy Users,

>

> I have a standard G-11 with DSC encoders.

>

> Once a polar alignment scope is installed,

> will it still be necessary to remove the RA clutch-tightening

knob, gear > cover,

> and other miscellaneous gaskets and rings in order to polar align?

>

> I am worried about dropping that stuff in the grass.

>

> Thanks very much!

> Mark

>



----------------------------

#29874 May 23, 2006

Probably very dumb questions but will ask any way.



.



What is the easiest way to check the accuracy of my polar scope?



Can the reticule or the scope itself be realigned if its off?



Do most of you actually use the 2nd star, I guess Kochab (I have

never been able to see it) for polar alignment?



It amazes me how much the Polaris position moves in the reticule

when I rotate the polar scope?



.



I have never tried a drift alignment. I guess I could do one and

see if Polaris is in proper location of my polar scope?



.



Your patient help/advice will be appreciated.



.



Roger Zellmer, San Diego, CA



N 32, W 117



TV85, Celestron 8" SCT CF XLT



Losmandy G11 mount w/ side by side



Canon Rebel, Coronado PST



40mm solar scope



www.rogerzellmer.com/















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#29875 May 23, 2006

You can adjust the polar alignment accuracy by using the screws on the

polar alignment viewfinder.

point it at a street light about a mile away

losen the RA axis and swivel it 180 degrees back and fourth.

at 0,90 and 180 degrees, be sure the crosshair is still dead center on

the street light while rotating RA, and it's aligned.



I use the second star. Alignment is very close after doing these two

steps.



I have not tried to drift align yet...



Hope this helps

Casey





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Zellmer"

rogerzellmer@...> wrote: >

> Probably very dumb questions but will ask any way.

>

> .

>

> What is the easiest way to check the accuracy of my polar scope?

>

> Can the reticule or the scope itself be realigned if its off?

>

> Do most of you actually use the 2nd star, I guess Kochab (I have

> never been able to see it) for polar alignment?

>

> It amazes me how much the Polaris position moves in the reticule

> when I rotate the polar scope?

>

> .

>

> I have never tried a drift alignment. I guess I could do one and

> see if Polaris is in proper location of my polar scope?

>

> .

>

> Your patient help/advice will be appreciated.

>

> .

>

> Roger Zellmer, San Diego, CA

>

> N 32, W 117

>

> TV85, Celestron 8" SCT CF XLT

>

> Losmandy G11 mount w/ side by side

>

> Canon Rebel, Coronado PST

>

> 40mm solar scope

>

> www.rogerzellmer.com/

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#29879 May 23, 2006

Roger Zellmer wrote:

>What is the easiest way to check the accuracy of my polar scope?

>

>



Roger,



Drift align the mount to the desired accuracy then the polar scope will

indicate the error.

>Can the reticule or the scope itself be realigned if its off?

>

>



Yes

>Do most of you actually use the 2nd star, I guess Kochab (I have

>never been able to see it) for polar alignment?

>

>



It's tough from in town but in a darker site it's useable

>.

>

>I have never tried a drift alignment. I guess I could do one and

>see if Polaris is in proper location of my polar scope?

>

>



Ta Da! Exactly. A lot of people seem to be afraid of drift aligning and

will look for any reason not to do it. It's really quite simple and will

work even when the pole star(s) are not visible.





Regards



Bill





--



William R. Mattil.:.www.celestial-images.com







----------------------------

#29881 May 23, 2006

I may be wrong, but I think that you do not have to align your polar scope by

doing a precision alignment, then seeing if the reticle is pointing to the

right location. All you need to do is get the polar scope aligned with the

mount's RA axis. It is easiest to do this during the daytime. Simply point

the center of the reticle at an object and then spin the RA axis 180 degrees.

The object is likely to be out of the center now. Use the three tiny set

screws to adjust the reticle until whatever is centered stays that way as you

rotate the RA axis. (Be careful when you adjust those three little screws

because they apply pressure to the edges of the delicate reticle glass and can

easily crack it.)



BTW, drift alignment is easy and when I first did it, I thought it was fun and

interesting. But it is a time sink, especially if you do it every time you set

up.



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold



---------------

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----------------------------

#29882 May 23, 2006

Paul,

Thanks for the response. Did yours require this adjustment?

Has anybody successfully adjusted this reticule?

.

Roger Zellmer, San Diego, CA

N 32, W 117

TV85, AS-GT mount

Canon Rebel, Coronado PST

40mm solar scope

www.rogerzellmer.com/

---------------

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul

Sterngold

Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 3:15 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] polar alignment scope accuracy

questions.



I may be wrong, but I think that you do not have to align your

polar scope by

doing a precision alignment, then seeing if the reticle is

pointing to the

right location.. All you need to do is get the polar scope

aligned with the

mount's RA axis.. It is easiest to do this during the daytime..

Simply point

the center of the reticle at an object and then spin the RA axis

180 degrees.

The object is likely to be out of the center now.. Use the three

tiny set

screws to adjust the reticle until whatever is centered stays

that way as you

rotate the RA axis.. (Be careful when you adjust those three

little screws

because they apply pressure to the edges of the delicate reticle

glass and can

easily crack it.)



BTW, drift alignment is easy and when I first did it, I thought

it was fun and

interesting.. But it is a time sink, especially if you do it

every time you set

up.



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold



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----------------------------

#29883 May 23, 2006

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Zellmer"



Hi Roger,

> Thanks for the response. Did yours require this adjustment?

> Has anybody successfully adjusted this reticule?



On my PA scopes (PAS) for the AP 900 and G-11 they both needed

alignment. This is not a surprise. For the G-11 I used the method

posted, that is, point the mount at a distant object (like it's the

pole star) and rotate the RA around in a circle while adjusting the

mount till the distant object is centered and then the reticule is

centered. One is supposed to be able to place the PAS in a V block,

rotate, and adjust the reticule that way. You can make these

adjustments in daylight.



The allen head screw is 0.035" or 0,9mm. The reticule i svery

delicate and will cost you about $65 if you break it. When using the

wrench I just torque sliding the wrench through my finger tips. Never

had a problem with breakage.



Accuracy is really impressive, in San Diego I am (was?) able to see

the three stars and if one interpolates the 2006 position of the stars

the result were good. I recall once I used the PAS then checked drift

alignment and the star tracked for 5 minutes perfectly. The PAS

nailed it.



There are some tricks to drift alignment it seems to me.





Tim



> .

> Roger Zellmer, San Diego, CA



----------------------------

#29886 May 24, 2006

--- Roger Zellmer rogerzellmer@...> wrote: > Thanks for the response. Did yours require this adjustment?

> Has anybody successfully adjusted this reticule?



Hi Roger,



I have not made this adjustment to my G11's polar scope, at least not yet. I

am working on other mount projects at the moment including upgrading my chip to

L4, then modeling my PE curve with PEMPro. Eventually, I will need to adjust

my PA scope.



I did adjust the PA scope in my Vixen GP-DX mount many years ago. It was easy

to do and improved the alignment accuracy. I recommend the procedure.



Cheers,

Paul Sterngold



---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

mail.yahoo.com







----------------------------

#29888 May 24, 2006

Probably very dumb questions but will ask any way.

Not at all. This is so little documented, that it ought to be in a 'FAQ'

somewhere. :-)

Others have answered most parts, but I'll just add a 'caveat'. Remember

that the reticule itself, is a very thin piece of glass, and be _delicate_

when adjusting it. Make sure you slacken a screw before tightening another.

There have been some posts here in the past from people who have cracked

the reticule...

As for the movement of Polaris, when you realise that it is about 3/4

degree from the actual 'pole' (more than the diameter of the Moon), and how

big the Moon appears through even a finder scope, you will get an idea of

why the movement is large!.



Best Wishes



----------------------------

#29890 May 24, 2006

I tried to adjust mine once and busted the reticle. A $150 lesson

in "leave it alone."



Of more importance than the reticle adjustment IMHO is removing the

wobble by putting some electircal tape on the N or upper end of the

polar scope so it points in one place. If it turns out the PS is

not that accurate you can pretty much memorize where the 2nd star is

after you do a drift align.



I note that using Argo Navis, I measured my polar scope misalignment

one night as only 2 arc minutes in alt and 7 arc minutes in az,

which I consider an excellent result. That's on an "as is" polar

scope from the factory. YMMV.



regards

Greg N





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Tube Tim" potentate@...>

wrote: >

> >--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Zellmer"

>

> Hi Roger,

>

> > Thanks for the response. Did yours require this adjustment?

> > Has anybody successfully adjusted this reticule?

>

> On my PA scopes (PAS) for the AP 900 and G-11 they both needed

> alignment. This is not a surprise. For the G-11 I used the method

> posted, that is, point the mount at a distant object (like it's the

> pole star) and rotate the RA around in a circle while adjusting the

> mount till the distant object is centered and then the reticule is

> centered. One is supposed to be able to place the PAS in a V

block, > rotate, and adjust the reticule that way. You can make these

> adjustments in daylight.

>

> The allen head screw is 0.035" or 0,9mm. The reticule i svery

> delicate and will cost you about $65 if you break it. When using

the > wrench I just torque sliding the wrench through my finger tips.

Never > had a problem with breakage.

>

> Accuracy is really impressive, in San Diego I am (was?) able to see

> the three stars and if one interpolates the 2006 position of the

stars > the result were good. I recall once I used the PAS then checked

drift > alignment and the star tracked for 5 minutes perfectly. The PAS

> nailed it.

>

> There are some tricks to drift alignment it seems to me.

>

>

> Tim

>

>

> > .

> > Roger Zellmer, San Diego, CA

>



----------------------------

#29924 May 25, 2006

Last night I adjusted the reticle of the PAS to align with the body

of the PAS.



It wasn't too bad- I didn't drop the tiny 0.035" hex key on my dark

driveway once!



But when I rotate the scope in RA, with Polaris still *centered* in

the reticle, Polaris moves quite a bit.



So I guess I need to shim the body of the PAS in the mount's RA bore

hole.



(This is Step 2 in Jim Benet's thorough post describing this process:

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/message/29164>).



Any recommendations as to how I could go about this?

Just guessing where the PAS is misaligned by randoming placing tape

at various points around it's body, then seeing if it helped, seems

like it could take forever. Any recommendations of a more

deterministic way to go about this?



Thank you!

Mark



----------------------------

#29934 May 25, 2006

Mark-



I really do not know of a good way to shim the PAS. Instead, what I

did was to wrap two turns of electrical tape around the barrel of the

PAS in two different places: one at the very end of the barrel and

one at the back end of the barrel. As I recall, the one on the back

of the barrel only required one turn of tape.



This is not the same as shimming. But it does take the "play" out of

the PAS / shaft interface. Hence, the PAS cannot sit at a cockeyed

angle. It is therefore parallel to the shaft opening.



Best Regards,



Jim Benet







-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of markbuxbaum

Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 12:33 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Shimming Polar Alignment Scope?





Last night I adjusted the reticle of the PAS to align with the body

of the PAS.



It wasn't too bad- I didn't drop the tiny 0.035" hex key on my dark

driveway once!



But when I rotate the scope in RA, with Polaris still *centered* in

the reticle, Polaris moves quite a bit.



So I guess I need to shim the body of the PAS in the mount's RA bore

hole.



(This is Step 2 in Jim Benet's thorough post describing this process:

groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/message/29164>).



Any recommendations as to how I could go about this?

Just guessing where the PAS is misaligned by randoming placing tape

at various points around it's body, then seeing if it helped, seems

like it could take forever. Any recommendations of a more

deterministic way to go about this?



Thank you!

Mark

















---------------

---------------

Protect your PC from spy ware with award winning anti spy technology.

It's free.

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--------------- >





Yahoo! Groups Links







----------------------------

#29938 May 26, 2006

Yes: this is the fix. greg n



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Benet" jimbenet@...>

wrote: >

> Mark-

>

> I really do not know of a good way to shim the PAS. Instead, what

I > did was to wrap two turns of electrical tape around the barrel of

the > PAS in two different places: one at the very end of the barrel and

> one at the back end of the barrel. As I recall, the one on the

back > of the barrel only required one turn of tape.

>

> This is not the same as shimming. But it does take the "play" out

of > the PAS / shaft interface. Hence, the PAS cannot sit at a cockeyed

> angle. It is therefore parallel to the shaft opening.

>

> Best Regards,

>

> Jim Benet

>

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of markbuxbaum

> Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 12:33 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [Losmandy_users] Shimming Polar Alignment Scope?

>

>

> Last night I adjusted the reticle of the PAS to align with the

body > of the PAS.

>

> It wasn't too bad- I didn't drop the tiny 0.035" hex key on my

dark > driveway once!

>

> But when I rotate the scope in RA, with Polaris still *centered*

in > the reticle, Polaris moves quite a bit.

>

> So I guess I need to shim the body of the PAS in the mount's RA

bore > hole.

>

> (This is Step 2 in Jim Benet's thorough post describing this

process: > groups.yahoo.com/group/Losmandy_users/message/29164>).

>

> Any recommendations as to how I could go about this?

> Just guessing where the PAS is misaligned by randoming placing

tape > at various points around it's body, then seeing if it helped,

seems > like it could take forever. Any recommendations of a more

> deterministic way to go about this?

>

> Thank you!

> Mark

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

---------------

---------------

> Protect your PC from spy ware with award winning anti spy

technology. > It's free.

> us.click.yahoo.com/97bhrC/LGxNAA/yQLSAA/2.XolB/TM

---------------

-~- > >

>

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>



----------------------------

#32325 Mar 11, 2007

Hi all,



I'm back with more questions. This time it concerns the proper

installation to the polar alignment scope in a GM-8 mount. I plan to

use the mount for imaging.



1) I've been told by a friend that you have to align the reticle in the

alignment scope and then align the scope to the mount. Is this true?



2) If so, how critical is this and what is the best procedure?



3) Once the polar scope is installed in the GM-8, can I leave it in? I

have to transported the mount and set-up each time I use it. How safe

would leaving the scope in the mount be?



Any help with the above questions would be appreciated.





Thanks, and clear skies,

Mike T



----------------------------

#32327 Mar 11, 2007

The polar scope is installed by replacing the cap in place right now with

the polar scope that just threads in with a collar.



To polar align, you have to rotate the polar scope so that the star field in

the reticle is the same orientation as the actual star field you are seeing

right now ( align the reticle in the alignment scope?)



Then you just use the polar scope to align the mount.



Most of the polar scope is inside the mount, with maybe 2 inchs sticking out

the back. I routinely transport my GM8 with polar scope attached with no

problems.



Hope this helps

Vincent

On 3/11/07, tapsky01 tapsky@...> wrote:

>

> Hi all,

>

> I'm back with more questions. This time it concerns the proper

> installation to the polar alignment scope in a GM-8 mount. I plan to

> use the mount for imaging.

>

> 1) I've been told by a friend that you have to align the reticle in the

> alignment scope and then align the scope to the mount. Is this true?

>

> 2) If so, how critical is this and what is the best procedure?

>

> 3) Once the polar scope is installed in the GM-8, can I leave it in? I

> have to transported the mount and set-up each time I use it. How safe

> would leaving the scope in the mount be?

>

> Any help with the above questions would be appreciated.

>

> Thanks, and clear skies,

> Mike T

>

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32328 Mar 11, 2007

Vincent.



Thanks for the reply. I understand how to attach and use the polar

scope. It's the alignment of the reticle within the polar scope

itself I'm refering to. I guess the reticle can be shipped without be

properly centered in the scope, at least that's what was implied in a

friends comment.



Glad to hear you can keep the scope installed in the mount without

problems.



Mike







----------------------------

#32338 Mar 12, 2007

On 12 Mar 2007 11:51:44 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com wrote:



Mike, with four polar scopes so far that I've worked on, mine included, the

reticle is not centered in the bore of the scope. You can prove it to yourself by

installing the scope in the bore of the GM-8 and using the elevation adjusters to

lower the altitude so that the axis is closer to level or the horizon. Use

something in the distance like a power pole insulator as your target. Then

rotate the scope in the bore. You will see the center intersection of the long

three lines not rotating concentrically around the target. You will need to find

a 0.035" allen key (very tiny) to adjust the reticles 3 alignment set screws in

the barrel. Loosen two, tighten one.... loosen one, tighten two, etc. Be very

careful in tightening the set screws, do not apply excessive pressure. If you

need to go further in a direction, loosen enough on the other side. You can put

so much pressure on the reticle cell that you can crack or chip the glass reticle

because the small set screws can supply great force over a small area.

Shouldn't take more that 15-30 minutes to align the reticle. Once done, you can

expect to consistently achieve A&E values of 1-2 arc-minutes or better for your

polar alignment. As long as you put all three stars at their alignment points

when you use your adjusters, you will get a polar alignment good enough for

imaging without drift alignment.



Keith



>Vincent.

>

>Thanks for the reply. I understand how to attach and use the polar

>scope. It's the alignment of the reticle within the polar scope

>itself I'm refering to. I guess the reticle can be shipped without be

>properly centered in the scope, at least that's what was implied in a

>friends comment.

>

>Glad to hear you can keep the scope installed in the mount without

>problems.

>

>Mike

PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with eComStation!



This OS/2 system uptime is 0 days 06:54 hours (en).



----------------------------

#32339 Mar 12, 2007

Keith,



Thanks for the reference. I'll check it out.



Mike



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32340 Mar 12, 2007

Mike - I'm not sure but it may be that the "alignment" you are

speaking of has to do with the angular position of the reticle.



If you look in the polar scope the reticle has, among other things,

two constellations engraved on it. They are Ursa Major (Big Dipper),

and Cassiopia. One or the other, or both, of these will be visible in

the sky at any given time. You need to rotate the reticle (it rotates

in it's mount) so the position of these constellations (angular

position, ie one o'clock, six o'clock, or whatever) are as close as

you can match to where they are in the sky at the time. Mind you, the

connstellations themselves will not be visible in the polar scope, the

field of view is too small. But the angular position of their etching

on the reticle needs to match where they are in the sky.



Then, the three stars, including polaris, you use to align the mount

will be close to where they need to be for the actual alignment and

you can identify them. Quite often only two of the three, including

polaris, will be visible because the third is pretty faint. Two is

enough.



The Losmandy web site has a PDF that explains all this.



Pat

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "tapsky01" tapsky@...> wrote:

>

> Vincent.

>

> Thanks for the reply. I understand how to attach and use the polar

> scope. It's the alignment of the reticle within the polar scope

> itself I'm refering to. I guess the reticle can be shipped without be

> properly centered in the scope, at least that's what was implied in a

> friends comment.

>

> Glad to hear you can keep the scope installed in the mount without

> problems.

>

> Mike

>



----------------------------

#32342 Mar 12, 2007

Hi all,

>

> I'm back with more questions. This time it concerns the proper

> installation to the polar alignment scope in a GM-8 mount. I plan to

> use the mount for imaging.

>

> 1) I've been told by a friend that you have to align the reticle in the

> alignment scope and then align the scope to the mount. Is this true?

> 2) If so, how critical is this and what is the best procedure?

Many people will simply fit the scope, and not bother to 'align' it

further. However what he is probably talking about, is centering the

reticle. You can aim the scope at am object (typically put Polaris on the

centre hair, rather than it's normal 'alignment' position), and then rotate

the whole scope. If the scope is properly centred, the crosshair should

remain on the target. If not, then centreing the reticle may be worthwhile.

This is done with three tiny grub screws, and _must_ be done very gently.

You just fractionally slacken a screw, and tighten the next. Any force at

all, can crack the glass. Done properly, it improves the accuracy

achievable by the polar scope, but most are good enough out of the box, and

for really good polar alignment drift aligning will always be necessary, so

I'd say leave it alone...

In use, all you do is rotate the system to match the orientation of the

sky, and align the three stars in their respective gaps in the reticule.

The central crosshair, then points at the true 'north' point.

> 3) Once the polar scope is installed in the GM-8, can I leave it in? I

> have to transported the mount and set-up each time I use it. How safe

> would leaving the scope in the mount be?

Most people leave the scope in place. With the cover on, and the possibly

the illuminator removed.



Best Wishes







----------------------------

#32343 Mar 12, 2007

Pat, and others



Nope, I'm talking about the alignment of the reticule within the barrel of the polar scope itself.



I guess a better word would have been collimation rather than alignment. The reticule is adjustable within the scope's barrel. As I've learned from other replies (thanks to all who have replied by the way) the reticule is very fragile, and great care is needed in adjusting it.



Like so many things in amateur astronomy, the gear we buy is not perfect, and needs tweaking. I just wish manufactures owned up to this fact and included tweaking instructions with their products. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'd be willing to pay extra to get a pre-tweaked product I didn't have to worry with before use.



I mean think about this. I bought a Polar Alignment Scope to save time and aggravation in polar aligning the mount. Now I have to worry that the alignment scope is not aligned (collimated). That seems pretty dumb to me.



Sorry, just venting after a cold cloudy winter.



Clear skies,

Mike



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32344 Mar 12, 2007

Hi Mike,



You wrote,

>

> I mean think about this. I bought a Polar Alignment Scope to save

time and aggravation in polar aligning the mount. Now I have to worry

that the alignment scope is not aligned (collimated). That seems

pretty dumb to me.



Did you check it and you know wth certainty that it is not

collimated ?



If not, then why worry about it ?



As other have said it is very very delicate. A friend of mine whi

things that he has to adjust everything .....



Well the reticle looks like a glass garbage can ....



As it comes and other have already said it is for a first rough

aligment very good collimated already. If you are an imager you will

in anyway have to use all other tools which are rpesent in the Gemini

GoTo to get it nearly perfect polar aligned.



Using correctly the polar scope I alwasy achieve at first alignment

run values of less then 5 arcminutes which is quite good for a start.



With 2-3 additional PAC I achieve alignments under 30 arcseconds.



saludos Rainer



----------------------------

#32347 Mar 12, 2007

This is a tweak you're better off without (the polar scope reticule).

I have measured the polar alignment error of the scope (which has

some wobble) from 1-2 arc minutes to 10 arc minutes (as measured by

Argo Navis). The intrinsic wobble of the mounting is much worse than

anything yo0u can fix by adjusting the tiny reticule screws. And,

when you have the stars lined up inside the crosshairs, there will

still be slight night to night differences.



1-2 arc minutes error is within the measurement error of Argo Navis

with good setting circles and 10 arc minutes isn't a whole lot, so my

personal 2c is to put one's efforts elsewhere.



regards

Greg N





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Tapper" tapsky@...>

wrote: >

> Pat, and others

>

> Nope, I'm talking about the alignment of the reticule within the

barrel of the polar scope itself. >

> I guess a better word would have been collimation rather than

alignment. The reticule is adjustable within the scope's barrel. As

I've learned from other replies (thanks to all who have replied by the

way) the reticule is very fragile, and great care is needed in

adjusting it. >

> Like so many things in amateur astronomy, the gear we buy is not

perfect, and needs tweaking. I just wish manufactures owned up to this

fact and included tweaking instructions with their products. I don't

know about the rest of you, but I'd be willing to pay extra to get a

pre-tweaked product I didn't have to worry with before use. >

> I mean think about this. I bought a Polar Alignment Scope to save

time and aggravation in polar aligning the mount. Now I have to worry

that the alignment scope is not aligned (collimated). That seems

pretty dumb to me. >

> Sorry, just venting after a cold cloudy winter.

>

> Clear skies,

> Mike

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#32348 Mar 12, 2007

Hi Mike,



FWIW, re: Losmandy polar scope reticle centering.



Its usually not that critical.



Many many times, I've simply eyeball centered Polaris through an open

bore-hole in a GM-8 and visually observed with relatively good

tracking never using the polar scope at all. It very much depends on

the focal length of the scope in use at the time. 800mm refractors,

usually no problem; 2350mm SCTs want more critical alignment via the

polar scope.



Over the years, I've centered 2 reticles. Its a delicate task, but

first you must determine if its even necessary and usually it really

isn't, IMHO.



I believe the reason that the reticle has adjustment is too allow for

manufacturing variances in the tolerances of the bore hole, i.e., a

few .001" here or there.



If imaging, whether the reticle was centered or not, I always drift

align after getting close with the reticle. Once you've drift aligned

enough, it doesn't take very long.



To determine if your reticle needs any adjustment, accurately drift

align, and then re-check your reticle to see the displacement error.

It may be so small that its not worth risking breaking your reticle.



If you decide to adjust it, first back off all 3 screws a whisker.

Then determine which direction you want to move the reticle and back

off the opposite side a 2nd whisker or two. Then gently adjust the

correct screw to move the reticle in the correct direction. Upon

feeling ANY pressure AT ALL, however light, STOP, and loosen the

other side another whisker immediately. Your tweaks will be very,

very minimal at all times. Your tiny allen wrench can apply a lot of

torque against something so fragile as the delicate reticle with

little effort. Always use the long side of the allen wrench in the PS

housing and turn the small side.



I have broken one reticle and ordered another from Scott so I tell

you this from experience on how to do it and that its usually not

needed. I like being anal and tweaking stuff so I couldn't resist

g>.



But I am not at all concerned about centering my current reticle

based on my experience and especially since my PS is shared between

two different mounts (GM-8 and MI-250). Centered in the housing is

good enough for visual use, and for imaging you're still gonna drift

align if not in a permanent set-up.



Jay







----------------------------

#32349 Mar 13, 2007

Jay,



Thanks for the detailed advise. I'll calm down as give the reticule another go today.



As usual, I just had to tweak things. And as usual my first attempt made things worse. At least the reticule is still intact.



Success in this hobby requires a large dose of humor!



Clear skies,

Mike



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32352 Mar 13, 2007

Just to be clear that we are talking about the same issue. I think I

misunderstood your "collimation" reference in an earlier post

relative to a previous experience of mine.



To check and center the reticle, if needed, in the PS in the daylight

by using a fixed target such as a telephone pole insulator is not

difficult at all. Just be very patient and have a light touch. See

the AP site's technical section for details.



But, I took it too far and then tried to verify whether a centered

reticle in the PS housing is also a "collimated" reticle to a

specific mount's manufacturing accuracy by drift aligning at night to

check any displacement error. This step is not necessary. Simply

centering the reticle on axis in the PS housing is plenty good

enough, IMO.













--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Tapper" tapsky@...>

wrote: >

> Jay,

>

> Thanks for the detailed advise. I'll calm down as give the reticule

another go today. >

> As usual, I just had to tweak things. And as usual my first attempt

made things worse. At least the reticule is still intact. >

> Success in this hobby requires a large dose of humor!

>

> Clear skies,

> Mike

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#32353 Mar 13, 2007

Jay



I'm happy to report that I got the reticule pretty well centered and can now move on to other things.



I'd like to thank you and all the others who offered help and advise with this issue.



Regards,

Mike



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32358 Mar 13, 2007

On 13 Mar 2007 11:48:37 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com wrote:



Greg, in my case (MI-250) there is no wobble or uncertainty in the alignment of

the scope becasue the scope is mounted off axis due the mount design. The

3-point dovetail scope holder that Mountain Instruments provides is able to hold

the polar scope alignment consistently. Whatever residual error in the mount

after PAC alignment is programmed into the polar scope and is eminently

repeatable. Because of Polaris' rotation around the pole throughout the year, if

the reticle is not concentrically aligned, you will not be able to do an accurate

polar alignment using just the scope. That is why I chose to align the reticle. It

was not hard to do and I have not broken a single reticle in the 3 others I have

aligned for friends. If you are just doing visual you might have an argument for

leaving things alone.



Keith



>This is a tweak you're better off without (the polar scope reticule).

> I have measured the polar alignment error of the scope (which has

>some wobble) from 1-2 arc minutes to 10 arc minutes (as measured by

>Argo Navis). The intrinsic wobble of the mounting is much worse than

>anything yo0u can fix by adjusting the tiny reticule screws. And,

>when you have the stars lined up inside the crosshairs, there will

>still be slight night to night differences.

>

>1-2 arc minutes error is within the measurement error of Argo Navis

>with good setting circles and 10 arc minutes isn't a whole lot, so my

>personal 2c is to put one's efforts elsewhere.

>

>regards

>Greg N

PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with eComStation!



This OS/2 system uptime is 0 days 22:23 hours (en).



----------------------------

#32372 Mar 15, 2007

Mmmmmmm.



Not so sure. The reticle misalignement may originate from two causes

that can combine:



1) the reticle is not centered with the polar scope optical axis

2) the polar scope is mechanically not aligned with the centerline of

the polar axis of the mount.



If you check the reticle with the polar scope installed in the mount

(by checking a target remains centered in the middle of the reticle

when rotatig the polar axis), you may reach a correct centering that

won't hold when you remove the polar scope and you put it back.



Both verifications should be done separately: first rotate the polar

scope into a kind of V shaped rail while aiming at a target and adjust

the reticle. Then insert the polar scope in the polar axis and rotate

the mount axis to check the target remains in the middle of the

reticle. If it doesn't, the polarscope sitting surface is not

perpendicular to the mechanical axis of the mount.



The sitting of the polar scope in the polar axis is not particularly

accurate (mechanically). What I did is to line the polar scope tube

with tape (plus some thin copper plates) in order to adjust the polar

scope in the polar axle by a tight fit on the cilyndrical part of both

pieces rather than relying on a perpendicular (in theory) mating

surface. In this case I do not tight too much the polar scope

tightening ring.



Ok, but that's just me...



Regards



Claudio



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Tapper" tapsky@...>

wrote: >

> Jay

>

> I'm happy to report that I got the reticule pretty well centered and

can now move on to other things. >

> I'd like to thank you and all the others who offered help and advise

with this issue. >

> Regards,

> Mike

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#33268 Jun 20, 2007

Hi,

I have a Losmandy GM-100 with the original side mount polar scope.

The polar scope was not all that well aligned. Between the readout on

my Argo Navis DSC computer and some first attempts at drift

alignment, I confirmed that it points me too far south of the NCP.

The off set to the South is more then half of a degree and about 18'

West of the NCP.



The other day I unscrewed the rear optical element from the PAS and

discovered that the glass reticle is adjustable via 3 small screws. I

unscrewed the reticle retaining ring and found the glass etched

element centered in the PAS bore.



Last night I set up my mount and completed a drift alignment. The PAS

markings did not line up near the 3 stars so I removed the rear

optical elements, unscrewed the retaining ring a bit, and

repositioned the reticle using the 3 small set screws. While I was

not able to get the reticle markings to line up perfectly, it is now

very close to the three stars. The reason that I could not get the

alignment marks perfectly correlated to the 3 stars is that I pushed

the glass reticle in the bore so that I ran out of adjustment room.

It will not move any more off center.



So my question is: am I doing the right thing to improve the accuracy

of my PAS?



What I do not know is: should the reticle be perfectly centered in

the bore, and the PAS scope itself aligned to the NCP?

I am concerned that now that the glass reticle is off center in the

scope bore, the PAS will only be aligned for one night a year, last

night. I am concerned that as the PAS rotates to adjust for the time

of alignment it will be out of whack because of the reticle offset.



I have adjusted the reticle to compensate for procession. I also

understand that the PAS will not make a perfect alignment, but I

would like to get it as close as possible.



If you have any experience with the PAS, I would greatly appreciate

your input.



Clear skies,

Paul



----------------------------

#33271 Jun 21, 2007

Paul



Rather than aligning the reticle to the stars, the normal way of

adjusting the reticle is to align the centre point to a fixed point.



The fixed point can either be a distant daytime object, or Polaris.



If using Polaris you align the mount so the centre cross is on

Polaris, rather than it's normal position on the line.



You then rotate the mount in RA. If the PAS is OK, then teh cross

will remain on the star. If not then adjust the screws.



Before adjusting the the PAS, check that the PAS is locating

correctly in the mount. Have a look at my web page where I show what

to check and how to fix the seating of the PAS.



www.aozc64.dsl.pipex.com/tips/g11gemini.htm#polar_scope_binding



Regards

Mark



----------------------------

#33338 Jun 24, 2007

Mark,

Thank you for the follow up. You confirmed my suspicions, my approach

was not correct.



I am going to order the new reticle as mine is from the early 90s,

then align it in the scope so the intersecting lines stay centered.

Next, I will adjust the mounting plate on the side of the GM-100 so

the finder aligns with the 3 stars. I think this will do the trick.



Thanks again!



Sincerely,

Paul





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Crossley"

mark.crossley@...> wrote: >

> Paul

>

> Rather than aligning the reticle to the stars, the normal way of

> adjusting the reticle is to align the centre point to a fixed point.

>

> The fixed point can either be a distant daytime object, or Polaris.

>

> If using Polaris you align the mount so the centre cross is on

> Polaris, rather than it's normal position on the line.

>

> You then rotate the mount in RA. If the PAS is OK, then teh cross

> will remain on the star. If not then adjust the screws.

>

> Before adjusting the the PAS, check that the PAS is locating

> correctly in the mount. Have a look at my web page where I show

what > to check and how to fix the seating of the PAS.

>

>

www.aozc64.dsl.pipex.com/tips/g11gemini.htm#polar_scope_binding >

> Regards

> Mark

>



----------------------------

#33367 Jun 26, 2007

Can anyone tell me if the PAS needs to be aligned to the mount before

it is used to align the mount itself on the celestial pole? If so is

that what the three tiny holes are for? I think they are Allen screw in

there but they seem to be the smallest I have ever seen. Anyone know

the size?



Thanks

Bob



----------------------------

#33368 Jun 26, 2007

They tiny holes are there for a reason. Only someone who has a lot of

experience with adjusting rifle sights should attempt that alteration.

The reticle in the PAS is extremely easy to break, and it is one of

those things where the people who find it easy enough may mislead

those who have never done it into thinking they can too. If you do

break it, it is replaceable for about $60, but it's best not to mess

with it.



The other answer to your question is no, you just screw it in and use

it. You have to use the right washers and some of us put electrical

tape around the "north" tip to reduce wobble.



I have used the PAS now both on an AP mount and a G11, and it is good

for accuracy to within about 10 arc minutes. The main source of

inaccuracy in fact is getting the exact right spot in putting the 2nd

star on the right "year".



The G11 and AP polar scopes are one and the same, the AP even says

Losmandy inside, but the difference is in the hardware.

Notwithstanding the different desigsn, the accuracy is the same,

suggesting to me that the main accuracy issue is the user choice of

where 2007 is.



regards

greg n





regards

greg n



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bob_masterson2000"

bmasters@...> wrote: >

> Can anyone tell me if the PAS needs to be aligned to the mount before

> it is used to align the mount itself on the celestial pole? If so is

> that what the three tiny holes are for? I think they are Allen screw in

> there but they seem to be the smallest I have ever seen. Anyone know

> the size?

>

> Thanks

> Bob

>







----------------------------

#33371 Jun 26, 2007

Thanks Greg. I won't touch it.I'm sure I would mess it up.



Bob



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

wrote: >

> They tiny holes are there for a reason. Only someone who has a lot

of > experience with adjusting rifle sights should attempt that

alteration. > The reticle in the PAS is extremely easy to break, and it is one of

> those things where the people who find it easy enough may mislead

> those who have never done it into thinking they can too. If you do

> break it, it is replaceable for about $60, but it's best not to mess

> with it.

>

> The other answer to your question is no, you just screw it in and

use > it. You have to use the right washers and some of us put electrical

> tape around the "north" tip to reduce wobble.

>

> I have used the PAS now both on an AP mount and a G11, and it is

good > for accuracy to within about 10 arc minutes. The main source of

> inaccuracy in fact is getting the exact right spot in putting the

2nd > star on the right "year".

>

> The G11 and AP polar scopes are one and the same, the AP even says

> Losmandy inside, but the difference is in the hardware.

> Notwithstanding the different desigsn, the accuracy is the same,

> suggesting to me that the main accuracy issue is the user choice of

> where 2007 is.

>

> regards

> greg n

>

>

> regards

> greg n

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bob_masterson2000"

> bmasters@> wrote:

> >

> > Can anyone tell me if the PAS needs to be aligned to the mount

before > > it is used to align the mount itself on the celestial pole? If so

is > > that what the three tiny holes are for? I think they are Allen

screw in > > there but they seem to be the smallest I have ever seen. Anyone

know > > the size?

> >

> > Thanks

> > Bob

> >

>



----------------------------

#33372 Jun 26, 2007

On 27 Jun 2007 00:57:08 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com wrote:

>They tiny holes are there for a reason. Only someone who has a lot of

>experience with adjusting rifle sights should attempt that alteration.

> The reticle in the PAS is extremely easy to break, and it is one of

>those things where the people who find it easy enough may mislead

>those who have never done it into thinking they can too. If you do

>break it, it is replaceable for about $60, but it's best not to mess

>with it.



I've never seen a rifle scope and I adjusted my reticle without any knowledge

going in just fine. IMHO, anyone not adjusting the reticle for centeredness is not

even getting 25% of the accuracy the scope is capable of giving. Every scope

I've come across is miscentered. That's just the way it is as they come off the

boat from Japan. In case anyone didn't know, the Losmandy PAS is the Kenko

polar scope. I've adjusted over a half dozen scopes of star party scope

participants who just thought you banged the PAS into the mount and hoped

Losmandy took care of everything. They wonder why their polar alignment is

not very good and always have to drift align. Once I centered my reticle, I

routinely am within 1-2 arc-minutes of the pole. I NEVER drift align. Don't need

to. I'm close enough with the polar scope to let the guide camera keep things

round and I don't get field rotation or enlongated stars in the corners. You'll

need a 0.035" or 0.9mm allen wrench for the tiny grub screws in the holes. Just

understand before you tighten one screw to move a direction, you loosen one

or more screws on the opposite side to allow the move. If you don't follow this

common sense rule, you can and probably will crack or chip the reticle as the

tiny allen screws can apply a tremendous force due their small surface contact

area. I've not broken or chipped a reticle yet. This is an easy fix. Takes about

15 minutes to do depending on how anal you are about centering the three

converging lines on a distant point. Polaris or glint off a power pole insulator

works fine. My $0.02 on the matter.



Cheers, Keith



PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with eComStation!



This OS/2 system uptime is 1 days 01:01 hours (en).



----------------------------

#33375 Jun 26, 2007

Maybe and maybe not. You have to test it first to find out. (BTW, mine

did.)



Position Polaris so that it is in the CENTER of the reticule (not in the

cross-hair where it normally is suppose to be). Rotate the PAS only, but do

not rotate the RA. Polaris should stay in the center. If Polaris rotates

around as you rotate the PAS, then the reticule is not centered.



Jim Benet





-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of bob_masterson2000

Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 4:59 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Question about the Polar Alignment Scope





Can anyone tell me if the PAS needs to be aligned to the mount before

it is used to align the mount itself on the celestial pole? If so is

that what the three tiny holes are for? I think they are Allen screw in

there but they seem to be the smallest I have ever seen. Anyone know

the size?



Thanks

Bob







----------------------------

#33379 Jun 27, 2007

Good analogy to the transmission Greg! Keith makes some good points,

but it took me the better part of an hour to adjust my polar scope to

make sure it was centered. My recommendation is to do it in the day

time and focus on the glint from a distant object as Keith suggests.

Invariably, you will drop the very small allen wrench a few times -

which would be hard to find in the dark. Also, I was not able to get

it perfectly centered, pretty close, but not perfect. Nonetheless, I

was very surprised to see how far off it was. I was getting about 12

to 15 arc minutes within the pole, and now I get about 5 to 7. I

then use PemPro to finsih polar aligning and get within 0.5 arc

minutes of the pole in about 10 minutes of time. No more lengthy

drift aligning process. Very easy. Best darn software you'll ever

use...





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

wrote: >

> Keith: Well, I had a similar no-nonsense-this-is-easy briefing

before > attempting to adjust one of mine, and managed to crack it anyhow,

so I > guess that makes me a doofus. If one is a doofus like me but not

> quite sure whether the doofus-ness includes the PAS adjustment

domain, > it is an expensive way to find out.

>

> "Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you."

>

> Argo Navis does an analysis of my polar alignment every time I set

up. > Sometimes I am within the resolution limits of the encoders--1-2

arc > minutes, and sometimes I am a bit farther off. This suggests that

the > problem is not in the PAS but in other factors, such as wobble, and

my > exact choice of where "centered" is relative to the markings.

>

> The polar alignment can be fine tuned using Gemini or Argo Navis but

> in my application I don't bother. Once the mount's polar alignment

is > adjusted according to the computer's instructions, one has to erase

> the pointing model and zap more stars.

>

> Gemini includes a tracking correction for the measured lack of polar

> alignment in any case, so we are talking about the minority of

imagers > who with longer exposures would be worried about very minuscule

field > rotation.

>

> For me, there are certain categories of things that I have gotten

good > at because I do them often, and other things which I can do if I go

> slow, particularly if I have a friend on hand for moral and

technical > support, and other things where the game is not worth the candle.

> That's where I put the PAS but everyone must make his own choice.

> Obviously at one point I was pretty gung ho about getting everything

> tweaked to perfection which is how I discovered, alas, that I was a

> doofus. I remember when I worked at an engineering company two car

> engineers, each with 30 years experience, were talking and one guy,

> John, zipped through a quick discussion of how easy it was to take

> apart an automatic transmission and the other said "I don't know,

> John, sounds to me like the kind of thing you might need to do a few

> times before you knock it off in an afternoon." Perhaps he, too,

was > a doofus.

>

> regards

> Greg N

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Myers" keithmyers@>

> wrote:

> >

> > On 27 Jun 2007 00:57:08 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

wrote: > >

> > >They tiny holes are there for a reason. Only someone who has a

lot of > > >experience with adjusting rifle sights should attempt that

alteration. > > > The reticle in the PAS is extremely easy to break, and it is

one of > > >those things where the people who find it easy enough may mislead

> > >those who have never done it into thinking they can too. If you

do > > >break it, it is replaceable for about $60, but it's best not to

mess > > >with it.

> >

> > I've never seen a rifle scope and I adjusted my reticle without

any > knowledge

> > going in just fine. IMHO, anyone not adjusting the reticle for

> centeredness is not

> > even getting 25% of the accuracy the scope is capable of giving.

> Every scope

> > I've come across is miscentered. That's just the way it is as

they > come off the

> > boat from Japan. In case anyone didn't know, the Losmandy PAS is

> the Kenko

> > polar scope. I've adjusted over a half dozen scopes of star party

> scope

> > participants who just thought you banged the PAS into the mount

and > hoped

> > Losmandy took care of everything. They wonder why their polar

> alignment is

> > not very good and always have to drift align. Once I centered my

> reticle, I

> > routinely am within 1-2 arc-minutes of the pole. I NEVER drift

> align. Don't need

> > to. I'm close enough with the polar scope to let the guide camera

> keep things

> > round and I don't get field rotation or enlongated stars in the

> corners. You'll

> > need a 0.035" or 0.9mm allen wrench for the tiny grub screws in

the > holes. Just

> > understand before you tighten one screw to move a direction, you

> loosen one

> > or more screws on the opposite side to allow the move. If you

don't > follow this

> > common sense rule, you can and probably will crack or chip the

> reticle as the

> > tiny allen screws can apply a tremendous force due their small

> surface contact

> > area. I've not broken or chipped a reticle yet. This is an easy

> fix. Takes about

> > 15 minutes to do depending on how anal you are about centering the

> three

> > converging lines on a distant point. Polaris or glint off a power

> pole insulator

> > works fine. My $0.02 on the matter.

> >

> > Cheers, Keith

> >

> > PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with

> eComStation!

> >

> > This OS/2 system uptime is 1 days 01:01 hours (en).

> >

>







----------------------------

#33380 Jun 27, 2007

Well since you're using the software anyhow does it *matter* that

you're now at 5 to 7 minutes?



I guess there is a lot of variability here in the product line.



For a long time I was suspicious that it was the machining arrangement

but I haven't been much better off with the same PAS in the AP900QMD.

I'm typically within 10 arc minutes, and often much closer than that,

but I've never kept track to determine an average and standard deviation.



I suppose it *would* be interesting to model the error, make the

correction suggested by Argo Navis, and then try again, just to see

how much it improves. On my G11, anything reported under about 3 arc

minutes is statistically meaningless (could be dead on, could be off,

computer can't tell) and on the AP900, about 2 arc minutes.



regards

Greg N



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "astrokattner" kattnerk@...>

wrote: >

> Good analogy to the transmission Greg! Keith makes some good points,

> but it took me the better part of an hour to adjust my polar scope to

> make sure it was centered. My recommendation is to do it in the day

> time and focus on the glint from a distant object as Keith suggests.

> Invariably, you will drop the very small allen wrench a few times -

> which would be hard to find in the dark. Also, I was not able to get

> it perfectly centered, pretty close, but not perfect. Nonetheless, I

> was very surprised to see how far off it was. I was getting about 12

> to 15 arc minutes within the pole, and now I get about 5 to 7. I

> then use PemPro to finsih polar aligning and get within 0.5 arc

> minutes of the pole in about 10 minutes of time. No more lengthy

> drift aligning process. Very easy. Best darn software you'll ever

> use...

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@>

> wrote:

> >

> > Keith: Well, I had a similar no-nonsense-this-is-easy briefing

> before

> > attempting to adjust one of mine, and managed to crack it anyhow,

> so I

> > guess that makes me a doofus. If one is a doofus like me but not

> > quite sure whether the doofus-ness includes the PAS adjustment

> domain,

> > it is an expensive way to find out.

> >

> > "Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you."

> >

> > Argo Navis does an analysis of my polar alignment every time I set

> up.

> > Sometimes I am within the resolution limits of the encoders--1-2

> arc

> > minutes, and sometimes I am a bit farther off. This suggests that

> the

> > problem is not in the PAS but in other factors, such as wobble, and

> my

> > exact choice of where "centered" is relative to the markings.

> >

> > The polar alignment can be fine tuned using Gemini or Argo Navis but

> > in my application I don't bother. Once the mount's polar alignment

> is

> > adjusted according to the computer's instructions, one has to erase

> > the pointing model and zap more stars.

> >

> > Gemini includes a tracking correction for the measured lack of polar

> > alignment in any case, so we are talking about the minority of

> imagers

> > who with longer exposures would be worried about very minuscule

> field

> > rotation.

> >

> > For me, there are certain categories of things that I have gotten

> good

> > at because I do them often, and other things which I can do if I go

> > slow, particularly if I have a friend on hand for moral and

> technical

> > support, and other things where the game is not worth the candle.

> > That's where I put the PAS but everyone must make his own choice.

> > Obviously at one point I was pretty gung ho about getting everything

> > tweaked to perfection which is how I discovered, alas, that I was a

> > doofus. I remember when I worked at an engineering company two car

> > engineers, each with 30 years experience, were talking and one guy,

> > John, zipped through a quick discussion of how easy it was to take

> > apart an automatic transmission and the other said "I don't know,

> > John, sounds to me like the kind of thing you might need to do a few

> > times before you knock it off in an afternoon." Perhaps he, too,

> was

> > a doofus.

> >

> > regards

> > Greg N

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Myers" keithmyers@>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > On 27 Jun 2007 00:57:08 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> wrote:

> > >

> > > >They tiny holes are there for a reason. Only someone who has a

> lot of

> > > >experience with adjusting rifle sights should attempt that

> alteration.

> > > > The reticle in the PAS is extremely easy to break, and it is

> one of

> > > >those things where the people who find it easy enough may mislead

> > > >those who have never done it into thinking they can too. If you

> do

> > > >break it, it is replaceable for about $60, but it's best not to

> mess

> > > >with it.

> > >

> > > I've never seen a rifle scope and I adjusted my reticle without

> any

> > knowledge

> > > going in just fine. IMHO, anyone not adjusting the reticle for

> > centeredness is not

> > > even getting 25% of the accuracy the scope is capable of giving.

> > Every scope

> > > I've come across is miscentered. That's just the way it is as

> they

> > come off the

> > > boat from Japan. In case anyone didn't know, the Losmandy PAS is

> > the Kenko

> > > polar scope. I've adjusted over a half dozen scopes of star party

> > scope

> > > participants who just thought you banged the PAS into the mount

> and

> > hoped

> > > Losmandy took care of everything. They wonder why their polar

> > alignment is

> > > not very good and always have to drift align. Once I centered my

> > reticle, I

> > > routinely am within 1-2 arc-minutes of the pole. I NEVER drift

> > align. Don't need

> > > to. I'm close enough with the polar scope to let the guide camera

> > keep things

> > > round and I don't get field rotation or enlongated stars in the

> > corners. You'll

> > > need a 0.035" or 0.9mm allen wrench for the tiny grub screws in

> the

> > holes. Just

> > > understand before you tighten one screw to move a direction, you

> > loosen one

> > > or more screws on the opposite side to allow the move. If you

> don't

> > follow this

> > > common sense rule, you can and probably will crack or chip the

> > reticle as the

> > > tiny allen screws can apply a tremendous force due their small

> > surface contact

> > > area. I've not broken or chipped a reticle yet. This is an easy

> > fix. Takes about

> > > 15 minutes to do depending on how anal you are about centering the

> > three

> > > converging lines on a distant point. Polaris or glint off a power

> > pole insulator

> > > works fine. My $0.02 on the matter.

> > >

> > > Cheers, Keith

> > >

> > > PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with

> > eComStation!

> > >

> > > This OS/2 system uptime is 1 days 01:01 hours (en).

> > >

> >

>







----------------------------

#33381 Jun 27, 2007

I can use the same polar scope in my G11 and AP900 with similiar

accuracy. I'm not very stringent on lining up the second star since

there is a lot of light pollution in Houston which makes it hard to

see and this gets me to about 5 to 10 arc mins. I use the polar

scope first because its fast and it will make the iterations less

when using the software. The software tells me how to adjust the

mount in real time. I watch the computer screen as I adjust the Az

and Alt. It only takes about 2 minutes for each iteration of either

AZ or Alt to get a measurement for the polar misalignment. After

using the software, I'm about .5 arc mins from the pole. That takes

about 10 to 15 mins instead of 45 mins drift aligning. You should

download the trial version of PemPro V2 and try it. It is a very

fast tool and it does all the work in locating an appropriate star.

it also has a spiral star search feature as well as a backlash tool.





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

wrote: >

> Well since you're using the software anyhow does it *matter* that

> you're now at 5 to 7 minutes?

>

> I guess there is a lot of variability here in the product line.

>

> For a long time I was suspicious that it was the machining

arrangement > but I haven't been much better off with the same PAS in the

AP900QMD. > I'm typically within 10 arc minutes, and often much closer than

that, > but I've never kept track to determine an average and standard

deviation. >

> I suppose it *would* be interesting to model the error, make the

> correction suggested by Argo Navis, and then try again, just to see

> how much it improves. On my G11, anything reported under about 3

arc > minutes is statistically meaningless (could be dead on, could be

off, > computer can't tell) and on the AP900, about 2 arc minutes.

>

> regards

> Greg N

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "astrokattner" kattnerk@>

> wrote:

> >

> > Good analogy to the transmission Greg! Keith makes some good

points, > > but it took me the better part of an hour to adjust my polar

scope to > > make sure it was centered. My recommendation is to do it in the

day > > time and focus on the glint from a distant object as Keith

suggests. > > Invariably, you will drop the very small allen wrench a few

times - > > which would be hard to find in the dark. Also, I was not able to

get > > it perfectly centered, pretty close, but not perfect.

Nonetheless, I > > was very surprised to see how far off it was. I was getting

about 12 > > to 15 arc minutes within the pole, and now I get about 5 to 7. I

> > then use PemPro to finsih polar aligning and get within 0.5 arc

> > minutes of the pole in about 10 minutes of time. No more lengthy

> > drift aligning process. Very easy. Best darn software you'll

ever > > use...

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > Keith: Well, I had a similar no-nonsense-this-is-easy briefing

> > before

> > > attempting to adjust one of mine, and managed to crack it

anyhow, > > so I

> > > guess that makes me a doofus. If one is a doofus like me but

not > > > quite sure whether the doofus-ness includes the PAS adjustment

> > domain,

> > > it is an expensive way to find out.

> > >

> > > "Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you."

> > >

> > > Argo Navis does an analysis of my polar alignment every time I

set > > up.

> > > Sometimes I am within the resolution limits of the encoders--1-

2 > > arc

> > > minutes, and sometimes I am a bit farther off. This suggests

that > > the

> > > problem is not in the PAS but in other factors, such as wobble,

and > > my

> > > exact choice of where "centered" is relative to the markings.

> > >

> > > The polar alignment can be fine tuned using Gemini or Argo

Navis but > > > in my application I don't bother. Once the mount's polar

alignment > > is

> > > adjusted according to the computer's instructions, one has to

erase > > > the pointing model and zap more stars.

> > >

> > > Gemini includes a tracking correction for the measured lack of

polar > > > alignment in any case, so we are talking about the minority of

> > imagers

> > > who with longer exposures would be worried about very minuscule

> > field

> > > rotation.

> > >

> > > For me, there are certain categories of things that I have

gotten > > good

> > > at because I do them often, and other things which I can do if

I go > > > slow, particularly if I have a friend on hand for moral and

> > technical

> > > support, and other things where the game is not worth the

candle. > > > That's where I put the PAS but everyone must make his own

choice. > > > Obviously at one point I was pretty gung ho about getting

everything > > > tweaked to perfection which is how I discovered, alas, that I

was a > > > doofus. I remember when I worked at an engineering company two

car > > > engineers, each with 30 years experience, were talking and one

guy, > > > John, zipped through a quick discussion of how easy it was to

take > > > apart an automatic transmission and the other said "I don't

know, > > > John, sounds to me like the kind of thing you might need to do

a few > > > times before you knock it off in an afternoon." Perhaps he,

too, > > was

> > > a doofus.

> > >

> > > regards

> > > Greg N

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Myers"

keithmyers@> > > > wrote:

> > > >

> > > > On 27 Jun 2007 00:57:08 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> > wrote:

> > > >

> > > > >They tiny holes are there for a reason. Only someone who

has a > > lot of

> > > > >experience with adjusting rifle sights should attempt that

> > alteration.

> > > > > The reticle in the PAS is extremely easy to break, and it

is > > one of

> > > > >those things where the people who find it easy enough may

mislead > > > > >those who have never done it into thinking they can too. If

you > > do

> > > > >break it, it is replaceable for about $60, but it's best not

to > > mess

> > > > >with it.

> > > >

> > > > I've never seen a rifle scope and I adjusted my reticle

without > > any

> > > knowledge

> > > > going in just fine. IMHO, anyone not adjusting the reticle

for > > > centeredness is not

> > > > even getting 25% of the accuracy the scope is capable of

giving. > > > Every scope

> > > > I've come across is miscentered. That's just the way it is

as > > they

> > > come off the

> > > > boat from Japan. In case anyone didn't know, the Losmandy

PAS is > > > the Kenko

> > > > polar scope. I've adjusted over a half dozen scopes of star

party > > > scope

> > > > participants who just thought you banged the PAS into the

mount > > and

> > > hoped

> > > > Losmandy took care of everything. They wonder why their polar

> > > alignment is

> > > > not very good and always have to drift align. Once I

centered my > > > reticle, I

> > > > routinely am within 1-2 arc-minutes of the pole. I NEVER

drift > > > align. Don't need

> > > > to. I'm close enough with the polar scope to let the guide

camera > > > keep things

> > > > round and I don't get field rotation or enlongated stars in

the > > > corners. You'll

> > > > need a 0.035" or 0.9mm allen wrench for the tiny grub screws

in > > the

> > > holes. Just

> > > > understand before you tighten one screw to move a direction,

you > > > loosen one

> > > > or more screws on the opposite side to allow the move. If

you > > don't

> > > follow this

> > > > common sense rule, you can and probably will crack or chip the

> > > reticle as the

> > > > tiny allen screws can apply a tremendous force due their small

> > > surface contact

> > > > area. I've not broken or chipped a reticle yet. This is an

easy > > > fix. Takes about

> > > > 15 minutes to do depending on how anal you are about

centering the > > > three

> > > > converging lines on a distant point. Polaris or glint off a

power > > > pole insulator

> > > > works fine. My $0.02 on the matter.

> > > >

> > > > Cheers, Keith

> > > >

> > > > PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with

> > > eComStation!

> > > >

> > > > This OS/2 system uptime is 1 days 01:01 hours (en).

> > > >

> > >

> >

>







----------------------------

#33382 Jun 27, 2007

Yeah but you're saying I gotta drag a lap top into the field and go

through all that routine. That only makes sense if you're going to be

using a lap top anyhow. Right now I have a light and nimble Argo

Navis which only draws .3 amps and will do this stuff for me.



For anyone who is imaging of course Pempro makes sense. You need the

compute there in any case.



I see that like me you are using a G11 AND an AP900. I'm wondering

what pushed you into the bi-mount-al mode. And are you using a go-to

900 or an earlier one?



Thanks

Greg N



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "astrokattner" kattnerk@...>

wrote: >

> I can use the same polar scope in my G11 and AP900 with similiar

> accuracy. I'm not very stringent on lining up the second star since

> there is a lot of light pollution in Houston which makes it hard to

> see and this gets me to about 5 to 10 arc mins. I use the polar

>



----------------------------

#33392 Jun 27, 2007

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...> wrote: >

> Keith: Well, I had a similar no-nonsense-this-is-easy briefing before

> attempting to adjust one of mine, and managed to crack it anyhow, so I

> guess that makes me a doofus. If one is a doofus like me but not

> quite sure whether the doofus-ness includes the PAS adjustment domain,

> it is an expensive way to find out.

>

> "Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you."



Hi Greg, yes I can be a doofus too. Try not to be too much as it is

often expensive to remedy as you found out. I would agree with you,

take on jobs or tasks that you feel comfortable with. If you aren't

mechanically inclined and don't know which end of a screwdriver to

hold, then yes by all means, pay for someone else's expertise. That

is the reason for service industries. I have a friend that I told how

to move the reticle for centering, gave all kinds of warnings and

explicit instructions et cetera...... he still managed to chip the

reticle and still not get it centered. In my defense, I offered to do

it for him one weekend on the mountain but he didn't want to interrupt

his viewing and said he could handle it himself. I guess I am used to

dealing with small fiddly things as I often work under magnifying

glasses on small electronic bits. A case of having the technical

expertise and comfortableness of doing similar work to tackle the job

on my own PAS. It really baffled me when I first got my scope and had

aligned with great success the first time I used it. The next new

moon month, I couldn't for the life of me at first figure out why my

polar alignment sucked so badly considering it was so good the

previous month. Light dawned with the realization of the further

rotation of Polaris around the NCP from the previous month and an

enlightened view through the PAS while rolling it along a flat surface

while viewing through it.



So I realize I shouldn't take for granted that everyone is capable or

comfortable tackling a mechanical alignment. A warning should always

go with my suggestion. Thanks for the feedback.



Cheers, Keith



----------------------------

#33394 Jun 27, 2007

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "astrokattner" kattnerk@...>

wrote: >

> Good analogy to the transmission Greg! Keith makes some good points,



> Invariably, you will drop the very small allen wrench a few times -

> which would be hard to find in the dark.



Absolutely, you definitely need to have half a dozen of the small

wrenches on hand before you start. If you drop one, forget it, its

gone. Thank goodness they are only a couple of pennies each.



Keith



----------------------------

#33395 Jun 27, 2007

I use the goto AP900, vintage 2007. I use the G11 for visual or for

shorter focal lengths when imaging. For visual, I just use the polar

scope in a down and dirty alignment. The only reason I would use the

laptop for polar aligning is for imaging. I don't need great polar

alignment for visual. I spent a long time working to get the tube

orthogonal and this has resulted in very good pointing even with a

rough polar alignment. I got the AP900 because my name came up on

the list sooner than expected and I couldn't pass it up. How do you

use your two mounts?





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

wrote: >

> Yeah but you're saying I gotta drag a lap top into the field and go

> through all that routine. That only makes sense if you're going to

be > using a lap top anyhow. Right now I have a light and nimble Argo

> Navis which only draws .3 amps and will do this stuff for me.

>

> For anyone who is imaging of course Pempro makes sense. You need

the > compute there in any case.

>

> I see that like me you are using a G11 AND an AP900. I'm wondering

> what pushed you into the bi-mount-al mode. And are you using a go-

to > 900 or an earlier one?

>

> Thanks

> Greg N

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "astrokattner" kattnerk@>

> wrote:

> >

> > I can use the same polar scope in my G11 and AP900 with similiar

> > accuracy. I'm not very stringent on lining up the second star

since > > there is a lot of light pollution in Houston which makes it hard

to > > see and this gets me to about 5 to 10 arc mins. I use the polar

> >

>







----------------------------

#33410 Jun 28, 2007

Well Keith if you'd been around MY polar scope I'd have jumped at the

chance to have you align it. I do mess with my equipment but I'm not

too good at stuff that has to be super super clean or super fragile.



I'll give another example. On the Losmandy dscs you have an

electronic board which attaches to the optical encoder. At some point

I upgraded from 4096 to 8192 tics on the encoder and the old encoder

had to be de-soldered from the board and the new encoder soldered on.

Sound easy? It does sound easy. The CATCH: the direction of the

soldered encoder is non standard and when you remove the heated part

you actually "pull up against the circuity on the board." Rather than

the other way around, where you would pull the component away and down

from the non-circuit side.



Now if I did that I would lift up the whole circuit and that would be

that. So I had my local Keith Myers, Pete, who has been soldering

since he was 13, do the work while I acted as his assistant. He is

like a brain surgeon with this circuit stuff. I don't know how he is

on fragile glass though. That is not his arena of expertise. When

someone helps me with something like that I make sure there's thick

steak and good cold beer around afterwards. Truth is I'm not sure

what I'd do without Pete. Probably just get an XT10 from Orion and

suffer in silence.



regards

Greg N





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Myers" keithmyers@...>

wrote:

I guess I am used to > dealing with small fiddly things as I often work under magnifying

> glasses on small electronic bits. A case of having the technical

> expertise and comfortableness of doing similar work to tackle the job

> on my own PAS. I

> Cheers, Keith

>



----------------------------

#33414 Jun 28, 2007

Sounds like he should use a stepper version g11 for Mt Pinos, assuming

he's not imaging. I don't know how frequent the stalling issue is on

other systems. It does not come up on this group nearly as much as it

does on the Titan group. Titan users swear that you can get the hand

of making the worm adjustments in a matter of minutes but it's kinda

like that PAS issue. Some people seem to do it and for others it's a

problem. I didn't have the gift.



Anyhow steppers don't stall, nearly as I can tell, but I guarantee

that this is a small minority opinion. In fact i think the G11 with

steppers is one of the last non-go-to "good quality" mounts on the

market. Course it's not that the steppers don't stall. It's that

they're geared much higher because they don't have to slew for the

user. I really, really appreciate the fact that neither system that I

use is overly sensitive to balance.



Your friend might do better with the Maxxon motor upgrade but of

course they're not designed to "power through" tight spots in the worm

so much as "not burn out" when they stall.



regards

greg n





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Myers" keithmyers@...>

wrote:

I have an astro buddy with a > Titan carrying a C14 and he swears that it performs marvelously at his

> home at 500 ft. elevation. And he swears AT his Titan on the top of

> Mt. Pinos at 8350 ft. elevation with too numerous to count 'motor

> stalled' messages. I think you need to remain skeptical.

>

> Keith

>



----------------------------

#33419 Jun 29, 2007

On 29 Jun 2007 10:29:15 -0000, Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com wrote:

>

>Your friend might do better with the Maxxon motor upgrade but of

>course they're not designed to "power through" tight spots in the worm

>so much as "not burn out" when they stall.





He related to me last that he had indeed picked up the new Maxxon motors.

Haven't talked to him since whether that has helped or not. I did get him to

start using the feeler gauge method of setting worm clearance. He has a new

toy (6" APO) to test out whether he stalls still. Quite a bit less load compared

to the C14 but a heckuva lot different moment arm which I think would further

test the motor stalled messages with the new Maxxon's.



Keith

PMMail/2 Tag->Keith Myers.... computing into the future with eComStation!



This OS/2 system uptime is 3 days 15:37 hours (en).



----------------------------

#35146 Nov 2, 2007

I hope someone out there knows how to fix this:



My polar alignment scope won't light up. I started at the battery

(wrong end, of course) and there are 3V all the way to the diode. Of

course, when I actually looked at the diode, it was lit (see, I told

you I started at the wrong end).



I removed the PAS from the RA axis, did not disassemble it, but

inspected it. I think I can see the edge of the reticle lens, so I

don't think blockage in the light path is the problem. I even

connected a 9V battery up to see if making the diode glow more

brighly, possilby burning out I know, would help, but it didn't.



Any ideas?



----------------------------

#35147 Nov 2, 2007

This might seem silly, but have you looked into the hole the

illuminator screws into, to see if something like a lint ball might be

in there? Mine came with a plug that was to be kept in when the

illuminator was removed to avoid this.

Floyd --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "macdonjh" macdonjh@...> wrote:

>

> I hope someone out there knows how to fix this:

>

> My polar alignment scope won't light up. I started at the battery

> (wrong end, of course) and there are 3V all the way to the diode. Of

> course, when I actually looked at the diode, it was lit (see, I told

> you I started at the wrong end).

>

> I removed the PAS from the RA axis, did not disassemble it, but

> inspected it. I think I can see the edge of the reticle lens, so I

> don't think blockage in the light path is the problem. I even

> connected a 9V battery up to see if making the diode glow more

> brighly, possilby burning out I know, would help, but it didn't.

>

> Any ideas?

>







----------------------------

#35151 Nov 2, 2007

macdonjh wrote: > I removed the PAS from the RA axis, did not disassemble it, but

> inspected it. I think I can see the edge of the reticle lens, so I

> don't think blockage in the light path is the problem.



Shine a flashlight into the hole, and see if that illuminates the

reticle. I've done this with a red LED flashlight, and it works great.



I even > connected a 9V battery up to see if making the diode glow more

> brighly, possilby burning out I know, would help, but it didn't.



Be careful. 9V may well burn out the LED. OTOH, if you can look in the

end of the illuminator cylinder with the regular batteries in place and

it turned on, and see the red light, then it's clear the LED is working.



Mike

--



Mike Dodd

Montpelier, VA USA

astronomy.mdodd.com



----------------------------

#36790 Mar 23, 2008

Hi All,



Does anyone know how to align the polar scope that goes in the G-8/11? Mine doesn't seem to be centered when I rotate it. What look like allen screws along the edge are really small, anyone know where I can get such a small wrench (1mm)?



Thanks,



David M.





www.homestead.com/STVphotography



---------------

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#36791 Mar 23, 2008

Hi,



You need a 0.9mm Allen key and if you get one be VERY VERY VERY

careful when tightening them.



Take the polar scope and put it into any support and focus on a fix

point and observe the center how it moves. Then untighten the screws

and move them in that way that the center starts to center.



Again be VERY VERY VERY careful.



It takes awful long to get a replacemnt of that round reticle. It

took me nearly 1 and a half years to get one from Scott Losmandy !



saludos Rainer



>

> Hi All,

>

> Does anyone know how to align the polar scope that goes in the G-

8/11? Mine doesn't seem to be centered when I rotate it. What look

like allen screws along the edge are really small, anyone know where

I can get such a small wrench (1mm)? >

> Thanks,

>

> David M.

>

>

> www.homestead.com/STVphotography

>

---------------

> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#36792 Mar 23, 2008

Good, now to find a .9mm Allen key. Thanks!



David M.



Rainer rsbfoto@...> wrote: Hi,



You need a 0.9mm Allen key and if you get one be VERY VERY VERY

careful when tightening them.



Take the polar scope and put it into any support and focus on a fix

point and observe the center how it moves. Then untighten the screws

and move them in that way that the center starts to center.



Again be VERY VERY VERY careful.



It takes awful long to get a replacemnt of that round reticle. It

took me nearly 1 and a half years to get one from Scott Losmandy !



saludos Rainer

>

> Hi All,

>

> Does anyone know how to align the polar scope that goes in the G-

8/11? Mine doesn't seem to be centered when I rotate it. What look

like allen screws along the edge are really small, anyone know where

I can get such a small wrench (1mm)? >

> Thanks,

>

> David M.

>

>

> www.homestead.com/STVphotography

>

---------------

> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>













www.homestead.com/STVphotography



---------------

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#36800 Mar 23, 2008

I found 0.035 inch Allen wrenches at a hardware store. McMaster-Carr also sell

them. They are pretty cheap. (Buy some extras).



0.035-inch = 0.9 mm



Jim Benet





-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of David Morris

Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 7:28 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: alignment scope





Good, now to find a .9mm Allen key. Thanks!



David M.



----------------------------

#36801 Mar 23, 2008

Good again. I looked earlier at Lowes, they don't have anything that small. Maybe Harbor Freight?? I have a couple of other local sources to look, now that I know what I'm looking for. Or just order a couple..... I'll spend a week or so looking, when I could order them and have them in two days.... Sheesh!



Thanks again,



David M.



Jim Benet jimbenet@...> wrote: I found 0.035 inch Allen wrenches at a hardware store. McMaster-Carr also sell

them. They are pretty cheap. (Buy some extras).



0.035-inch = 0.9 mm



Jim Benet



-----Original Message-----

From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of David Morris

Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 7:28 PM

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: alignment scope



Good, now to find a .9mm Allen key. Thanks!



David M.













www.homestead.com/STVphotography



---------------

Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#36804 Mar 24, 2008

I did a google search a few weeks ago and found a couple of sources

one of which was Ace hardware. I have one that came with an AP

version of the same scope. AP includes a hex key with theirs but

they make their own.



Larry



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, David Morris dmorris99us@...>

wrote: >

> Good again. I looked earlier at Lowes, they don't have anything

that small. Maybe Harbor Freight?? I have a couple of other local

sources to look, now that I know what I'm looking for. Or just order

a couple..... I'll spend a week or so looking, when I could order

them and have them in two days.... Sheesh! >

> Thanks again,

>

> David M.

>

> Jim Benet jimbenet@...> wrote: I found

0.035 inch Allen wrenches at a hardware store. McMaster-Carr also

sell > them. They are pretty cheap. (Buy some extras).

>

> 0.035-inch = 0.9 mm

>

> Jim Benet

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of David Morris

> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 7:28 PM

> To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: alignment scope

>

> Good, now to find a .9mm Allen key. Thanks!

>

> David M.

>

>

>

>

>

>

> www.homestead.com/STVphotography

>

---------------

> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!

Search. >

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#40697 Dec 1, 2008

I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the recital

doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's another

set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30



Does anybody have updated instructions?



Jim

Phoenix, AZ



----------------------------

#40698 Dec 1, 2008

Hi Jim,

Just on the off-chance - is that a **brand_new** G11 Polar Alignment

Scope?



Your problem appears to be similar to that which is described in this

article: www.company7.com/library/losmandy/polefinder.html



If not, sorry about the noise :-)



Regards,



S Roberts



On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 9:29 PM, Jim jwaters125@...> wrote:



> I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the recital

> doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's another

> set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

>

> Does anybody have updated instructions?

>

> Jim

> Phoenix, AZ

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#40699 Dec 1, 2008

Hi Jim,



05 means 2005

10 means 2010

20 means 2020

30 means 2030



So the reticle is good until the year 2030.



We are in the year 2008 so place the stars a little bit nearer to the

2010 mark rather then to the 2005 mark and you are done. Interpolate

that distance into 5 egual spaces and place the stars 2 spaces from

the 2010 amrk and 3 soaces from the 2005 mark.



Of course place Polaris where it must be placed and that is in the

intersection of the 3 lines marked with Polaris.



I do not have my polar align scope here but if you want I can check it

in 3 weeks when I am at the Observatory again.





>

> > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the recital

> > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's another

> > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> >

> > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> >

> > Jim

> > Phoenix, AZ

> >

> >

> >

---------------

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#40700 Dec 1, 2008

It's about 1 month old and I use it in a G8 mount. Both the G8 and 11

mounts use the same scope. The recital drawing that I have is

different and the orientations of Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are

rotated. There's an extra set of alignment markers at about 225

degrees and the location where it says to place the second star or &

MNi looks too low.



I don't know about magnifications problems but the other problems exist.



Jim





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "stacey roberts" astrobsd@...>

wrote: >

> Hi Jim,

> Just on the off-chance - is that a **brand_new** G11 Polar Alignment

> Scope?

>

> Your problem appears to be similar to that which is described in this

> article: www.company7.com/library/losmandy/polefinder.html

>

> If not, sorry about the noise :-)

>

> Regards,

>

> S Roberts

>

>

> On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 9:29 PM, Jim jwaters125@...> wrote:

>

> > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the recital

> > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's another

> > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> >

> > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> >

> > Jim

> > Phoenix, AZ

> >

> >

> >

---------------

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#40702 Dec 1, 2008

Here is an useful info for the new reticle



www.losmandy.com/polar-finder.pdf



regards Rainer

>

> Hi Jim,

>

> 05 means 2005

> 10 means 2010

> 20 means 2020

> 30 means 2030

>

> So the reticle is good until the year 2030.

>

> We are in the year 2008 so place the stars a little bit nearer to the

> 2010 mark rather then to the 2005 mark and you are done. Interpolate

> that distance into 5 egual spaces and place the stars 2 spaces from

> the 2010 amrk and 3 soaces from the 2005 mark.

>

> Of course place Polaris where it must be placed and that is in the

> intersection of the 3 lines marked with Polaris.

>

> I do not have my polar align scope here but if you want I can check it

> in 3 weeks when I am at the Observatory again.

>

>

>

> >

> > > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the

recital > > > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's

another > > > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> > > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> > > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> > > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> > >

> > > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> > >

> > > Jim

> > > Phoenix, AZ

> > >

> > >

> > >

---------------

> > >

> > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>



----------------------------

#40703 Dec 1, 2008

Hi Jim,

Okay.., so if its a new scope then are you trying to align the second

star (relatively) closer to the "10" mark?



The "10" = the year 2010, so given that we're at the end of 2008, you'd want

to position the second star "closer" to 10.



Regards,



S Roberts



On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 10:11 PM, Jim jwaters125@...> wrote:



> It's about 1 month old and I use it in a G8 mount. Both the G8 and 11

> mounts use the same scope. The recital drawing that I have is

> different and the orientations of Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are

> rotated. There's an extra set of alignment markers at about 225

> degrees and the location where it says to place the second star or &

> MNi looks too low.

>

> I don't know about magnifications problems but the other problems exist.

>

> Jim

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "stacey roberts" astrobsd@...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jim,

> > Just on the off-chance - is that a **brand_new** G11 Polar Alignment

> > Scope?

> >

> > Your problem appears to be similar to that which is described in this

> > article: www.company7.com/library/losmandy/polefinder.html

> >

> > If not, sorry about the noise :-)

> >

> > Regards,

> >

> > S Roberts

> >

> >

> > On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 9:29 PM, Jim jwaters125@...> wrote:

> >

> > > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the recital

> > > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's another

> > > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> > > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> > > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> > > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> > >

> > > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> > >

> > > Jim

> > > Phoenix, AZ

> > >

> > >

> > >

---------------

> > >

> > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#40704 Dec 1, 2008

Hi Rainer;



I understand the date markings but the location of the alignment

markings are different and don't match the instructions. There are

also new alignment markings.



Jim



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Jim,

>

> 05 means 2005

> 10 means 2010

> 20 means 2020

> 30 means 2030

>

> So the reticle is good until the year 2030.

>

> We are in the year 2008 so place the stars a little bit nearer to the

> 2010 mark rather then to the 2005 mark and you are done. Interpolate

> that distance into 5 egual spaces and place the stars 2 spaces from

> the 2010 amrk and 3 soaces from the 2005 mark.

>

> Of course place Polaris where it must be placed and that is in the

> intersection of the 3 lines marked with Polaris.

>

> I do not have my polar align scope here but if you want I can check it

> in 3 weeks when I am at the Observatory again.

>

>

>

> >

> > > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the

recital

> > > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's

another

> > > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> > > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> > > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> > > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> > >

> > > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> > >

> > > Jim

> > > Phoenix, AZ

> > >

> > >

> > >

---------------

> > >

> > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>







----------------------------

#40705 Dec 1, 2008

Hello,



One thing to note is that on Fig. 3 of the Company 7 link, note that

you also position Polaris at different locations within the gap

depending on the year. The same figure is on the Losmandy link in

Fig. 2. It is interesting to also point out that the "new" reticle

on page four of the Losmandy link does not show "different" placement

of Polaris while it does show the different "spots" to place Delta

Ursa Minor and 51 Cep.



So, does anyone actually place Polaris in any position other

than "center" but do place the other two stars in their proper

interpolated places?



I flailed with alignment on this past Friday night in what it seemed

like an eternity to get the mount aligned. In my previous outing, I

had the alignment within a few minutes. The recent alignment turned

out to be lousy and the one where it took only a short time, the

alignment was spot on. It really seemed strange. I was beginning to

wonder if I had the correct stars. What a deal!



By the way, is this the only alignment required to allow for good

guiding? I have heard that Polar alignment is adequate and that

further drift alignment is not necessary.



Jerry.





--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" jwaters125@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Rainer;

>

> I understand the date markings but the location of the alignment

> markings are different and don't match the instructions. There are

> also new alignment markings.

>

> Jim

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jim,

> >

> > 05 means 2005

> > 10 means 2010

> > 20 means 2020

> > 30 means 2030

> >

> > So the reticle is good until the year 2030.

> >

> > We are in the year 2008 so place the stars a little bit nearer to

the

> > 2010 mark rather then to the 2005 mark and you are done.

Interpolate

> > that distance into 5 egual spaces and place the stars 2 spaces

from

> > the 2010 amrk and 3 soaces from the 2005 mark.

> >

> > Of course place Polaris where it must be placed and that is in the

> > intersection of the 3 lines marked with Polaris.

> >

> > I do not have my polar align scope here but if you want I can

check it

> > in 3 weeks when I am at the Observatory again.

> >

> >

> >

> > >

> > > > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the

> recital

> > > > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's

> another

> > > > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and

the

> > > > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower

when

> > > > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are

at

> > > > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> > > >

> > > > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> > > >

> > > > Jim

> > > > Phoenix, AZ

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

---------------

> > > >

> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > >

> >

>



----------------------------

#40706 Dec 2, 2008

Hi Jim,



Sorry but then I do not know what sort of reticle has your Polar

Align Scope.



I ordered for my old Polar Scope a new reticle and that one is

exactly as the one depicted in the PDF instruction.



regards Rainer



>

> Hi Rainer;

>

> I understand the date markings but the location of the alignment

> markings are different and don't match the instructions. There are

> also new alignment markings.

>

> Jim

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jim,

> >

> > 05 means 2005

> > 10 means 2010

> > 20 means 2020

> > 30 means 2030

> >

> > So the reticle is good until the year 2030.

> >

> > We are in the year 2008 so place the stars a little bit nearer to

the > > 2010 mark rather then to the 2005 mark and you are done.

Interpolate > > that distance into 5 egual spaces and place the stars 2 spaces

from > > the 2010 amrk and 3 soaces from the 2005 mark.

> >

> > Of course place Polaris where it must be placed and that is in the

> > intersection of the 3 lines marked with Polaris.

> >

> > I do not have my polar align scope here but if you want I can

check it > > in 3 weeks when I am at the Observatory again.

> >

> >

> >

> > >

> > > > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the

> recital

> > > > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's

> another

> > > > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and

the > > > > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower

when > > > > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are

at > > > > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> > > >

> > > > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> > > >

> > > > Jim

> > > > Phoenix, AZ

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

---------------

> > > >

> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > >

> >

>







----------------------------

#40723 Dec 5, 2008

The 'new style' polar scope has different markings to the others but

still works the same in principle. I have added 2 photo's to

demonstate the recticle pattern and a simple one knocked up in paint

to show its workings (the placement of Cassiopea and Ursa Major are a

bit wrong, but you will get the idea) note that Polaris should not be

placed dead centre of the gap.



Hope this helps.



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "stacey roberts" astrobsd@...>

wrote: >

> Hi Jim,

> Just on the off-chance - is that a **brand_new** G11 Polar Alignment

> Scope?

>

> Your problem appears to be similar to that which is described in this

> article: www.company7.com/library/losmandy/polefinder.html

>

> If not, sorry about the noise :-)

>

> Regards,

>

> S Roberts

>

>

> On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 9:29 PM, Jim jwaters125@...> wrote:

>

> > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the recital

> > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's another

> > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and the

> > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower when

> > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are at

> > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> >

> > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> >

> > Jim

> > Phoenix, AZ

> >

> >

> >

---------------

> >

> > Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#40724 Dec 6, 2008

Is it difficult to upgrade an old polar scope with the new reticle?



Where did you purchase the new reticle?



Thanks,



Ralph

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Jim,

>

> Sorry but then I do not know what sort of reticle has your Polar

> Align Scope.

>

> I ordered for my old Polar Scope a new reticle and that one is

> exactly as the one depicted in the PDF instruction.

>

> regards Rainer

>

>

> >

> > Hi Rainer;

> >

> > I understand the date markings but the location of the alignment

> > markings are different and don't match the instructions. There are

> > also new alignment markings.

> >

> > Jim

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Rainer" rsbfoto@> wrote:

> > >

> > > Hi Jim,

> > >

> > > 05 means 2005

> > > 10 means 2010

> > > 20 means 2020

> > > 30 means 2030

> > >

> > > So the reticle is good until the year 2030.

> > >

> > > We are in the year 2008 so place the stars a little bit nearer to

> the

> > > 2010 mark rather then to the 2005 mark and you are done.

> Interpolate

> > > that distance into 5 egual spaces and place the stars 2 spaces

> from

> > > the 2010 amrk and 3 soaces from the 2005 mark.

> > >

> > > Of course place Polaris where it must be placed and that is in the

> > > intersection of the 3 lines marked with Polaris.

> > >

> > > I do not have my polar align scope here but if you want I can

> check it

> > > in 3 weeks when I am at the Observatory again.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > >

> > > > > I purchased a Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope recently and the

> > recital

> > > > > doesn't match the instructions on the Losmandy site. There's

> > another

> > > > > set of alignment markers close to the markers for & UMi and

> the

> > > > > location where it say's to place the second star looks lower

> when

> > > > > compared to the instructions. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are

> at

> > > > > different locations. The recital says N-05-10-20-30

> > > > >

> > > > > Does anybody have updated instructions?

> > > > >

> > > > > Jim

> > > > > Phoenix, AZ

> > > > >

> > > > >

> > > > >

---------------

> > > > >

> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links

> > > > >

> > > > >

> > > > >

> > > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > > >

> > >

> >

>



----------------------------

#44099 Sep 30, 2009

I have been having polar alignment problems for some time. I finally isolated the problem to the polar alignment scope. The reticule

isn't aligned correctly to the RA axis. I would do a drift alignment

but trees are blocking my southern view. Each night I have to spend

30 to 40 minutes aligning the reticule in the alignment scope. It's

usually off about 1/2 the width of the field of view for the scope.

I think the problem is that the mounting collar on the RA axis isn't square or at a right angle to the tube. I tried to over tighten the locking collar so the scope can't rotate in the RA shaft, then realign the reticule and rotate the RA axis to match the star pattern but that doesn't help. It eventually needs to realigned. I have also tried to wrap thin aluminum tape around the polar alignment

tube to eliminate some of the free play between the tube and inner

wall of the RA axis. There's about 0.023 inch of free play. This

didn't help much. I called Losmandy tech support but they were not much help.



Has anybody else experienced this problem and if so what do you do?

I may have to find another site without trees so I can do a drift

alignment.



Jim







----------------------------

#44100 Sep 30, 2009

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jwaters125" jwaters125@...> wrote: >

> I have been having polar alignment problems for some time.



The scope is only approximate. It's good enough as-is for hours of visual observing. For imaging, maybe not. It depends. For me, it's good enough to shoot 10 min subs at 480 mm FL without further tweaking, but for any longer FL, I do a drift alignment.



----------------------------

#44101 Sep 30, 2009

Jim - check the archives on this group - there have been several emails

on how to align your reticle in the polar scope - its a very scary thing

if you have to actually adjust the reticle screws because you can

overtighten and break it very easily. but it is doable . Re wrapping

the PS to remove the play- I found that using blue painters masking tape

worked well for me on my G11 (just before i moved up to a used MI250).

Another thing to look at, is the spring washer under the head of the PS

deformed or missing so you are getting too much slop.

Good luck - it can be pretty frustrating.

Loren Banbury



jwaters125 wrote: >

>

> I have been having polar alignment problems for some time. I finally

> isolated the problem to the polar alignment scope. The reticule

> isn't aligned correctly to the RA axis. I would do a drift alignment

> but trees are blocking my southern view. Each night I have to spend

> 30 to 40 minutes aligning the reticule in the alignment scope. It's

> usually off about 1/2 the width of the field of view for the scope.

> I think the problem is that the mounting collar on the RA axis isn't

> square or at a right angle to the tube. I tried to over tighten the

> locking collar so the scope can't rotate in the RA shaft, then realign

> the reticule and rotate the RA axis to match the star pattern but that

> doesn't help. It eventually needs to realigned. I have also tried to

> wrap thin aluminum tape around the polar alignment

> tube to eliminate some of the free play between the tube and inner

> wall of the RA axis. There's about 0.023 inch of free play. This

> didn't help much. I called Losmandy tech support but they were not

> much help.

>

> Has anybody else experienced this problem and if so what do you do?

> I may have to find another site without trees so I can do a drift

> alignment.

>

> Jim

>

>



----------------------------

#44103 Sep 30, 2009

jwaters125 wrote: > I think the problem is that the mounting collar on the RA axis isn't square or at a right angle to the tube. I tried to over tighten the locking collar so the scope can't rotate in the RA shaft, then realign the reticule and rotate the RA axis to match the star pattern but that doesn't help.



The screw-on collar of the polar alignment sight pushes on a spring

washer that presses the polar alignment sight against the clutch knob.

The flat, front face of the polar alignment sight bears against the

flat, rear face of the clutch knob. The accuracy of the polar alignment

sight depends on how well the parts are machined and the adjustment of

the reticle inside the polar alignment sight. When the two faces are in

contact the tightness of the collar only affects how difficult it is to

turn the polar alignment sight. After you have the collar tightened the

way you want it, tighten the slot head set screw on the side of the

collar to lock it into place.



You can check the adjustment of the reticle by centering a distant

object in the reticle and turning the polar axis. If the reticle is not

properly adjusted it will appear to wander around the distant object.

If the adjustment is good everything stays centered. You can adjust the

reticule with the tiny setscrews in the eye end of the sight. You need

a hex key about 0.45 mm in size. Take care that before you tighten a

set screw you loosen the opposing set screw. Overstress the reticle and

it will break. Make small adjustments.



Bud



----------------------------

#44108 Oct 1, 2009

I also spent many hours on this after getting mine, including reading this group a lot. The only good repeatable results came from wrapping the scope tube with tape (I used three layers of aluminum duct tape, roughly a half-inch-wide ring of it at each end of the tube itself). This provided an interference fit in the RA bore. The wavy washer is not needed in this case, and I don't use it.



One advantage of this method is the scope does not rotate when you are adjusting the clutch. Good if you'd prefer the opening for the illuminator to stay oriented one way. The biggest advantage, though, is once the reticle is calibrated it stays calibrated.



Mike

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jwaters125" jwaters125@...> wrote:

>

> I have been having polar alignment problems for some time. I finally isolated the problem to the polar alignment scope. The reticule

> isn't aligned correctly to the RA axis. I would do a drift alignment

> but trees are blocking my southern view. Each night I have to spend

> 30 to 40 minutes aligning the reticule in the alignment scope. It's

> usually off about 1/2 the width of the field of view for the scope.

> I think the problem is that the mounting collar on the RA axis isn't square or at a right angle to the tube. I tried to over tighten the locking collar so the scope can't rotate in the RA shaft, then realign the reticule and rotate the RA axis to match the star pattern but that doesn't help. It eventually needs to realigned. I have also tried to wrap thin aluminum tape around the polar alignment

> tube to eliminate some of the free play between the tube and inner

> wall of the RA axis. There's about 0.023 inch of free play. This

> didn't help much. I called Losmandy tech support but they were not much help.

>

> Has anybody else experienced this problem and if so what do you do?

> I may have to find another site without trees so I can do a drift

> alignment.

>

> Jim

>







----------------------------

#44110 Oct 1, 2009

Another point I meant to add. The polar scope is not touched after reticle calibration, to line up the star pattern you must rotate the mount in RA.



The basic problem with using the scope mounting as designed is that unless it is accurately (and I mean really accurately) square to the axis, your reticle calibration will be introducing some error to offset the lack of squareness. All will be fine until you rotate the clutch knob, or rotate the polar scope itself. As soon as you do either of those your calibration is no longer offsetting the squareness error properly.

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "hudson_yak" mhacket@...> wrote:

>

> I also spent many hours on this after getting mine, including reading this group a lot. The only good repeatable results came from wrapping the scope tube with tape (I used three layers of aluminum duct tape, roughly a half-inch-wide ring of it at each end of the tube itself). This provided an interference fit in the RA bore. The wavy washer is not needed in this case, and I don't use it.

>

> One advantage of this method is the scope does not rotate when you are adjusting the clutch. Good if you'd prefer the opening for the illuminator to stay oriented one way. The biggest advantage, though, is once the reticle is calibrated it stays calibrated.

>

> Mike

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jwaters125" jwaters125@> wrote:

> >

> > I have been having polar alignment problems for some time. I finally isolated the problem to the polar alignment scope. The reticule

> > isn't aligned correctly to the RA axis. I would do a drift alignment

> > but trees are blocking my southern view. Each night I have to spend

> > 30 to 40 minutes aligning the reticule in the alignment scope. It's

> > usually off about 1/2 the width of the field of view for the scope.

> > I think the problem is that the mounting collar on the RA axis isn't square or at a right angle to the tube. I tried to over tighten the locking collar so the scope can't rotate in the RA shaft, then realign the reticule and rotate the RA axis to match the star pattern but that doesn't help. It eventually needs to realigned. I have also tried to wrap thin aluminum tape around the polar alignment

> > tube to eliminate some of the free play between the tube and inner

> > wall of the RA axis. There's about 0.023 inch of free play. This

> > didn't help much. I called Losmandy tech support but they were not much help.

> >

> > Has anybody else experienced this problem and if so what do you do?

> > I may have to find another site without trees so I can do a drift

> > alignment.

> >

> > Jim

> >

>



----------------------------

#44111 Oct 1, 2009

Hi,



There are two things to take into consideration with the polar scope.



The first is that the polar scope MUST rotate inside the RA axis !



Why MUST it rotate ? Because you want to put Polaris into the gap where it belongs as well as the other 2 stars you need in order to mecanically move the mount in Elevation and Azimuth.



Since many years that seems to be a gesing flaw in the RA Axis that when you lock the Locknut of the polar scope on the RA axis it does not rotate anymore and that is WRONG. You have to separate the big clutch knob of collar nut which locks the cluth by about 1/8" and tyhis can be done by adding a big washer with a bore of 1.25". Look at this image



rainerehlert.com/astro/AddedWasher.jpg



best regards Rainer





Second is the alignment of the reticle inside the polar scope and that is the last thing you should touch in order to avoid a breakage of the reticle.







>

> Another point I meant to add. The polar scope is not touched after reticle calibration, to line up the star pattern you must rotate the mount in RA.

>

> The basic problem with using the scope mounting as designed is that unless it is accurately (and I mean really accurately) square to the axis, your reticle calibration will be introducing some error to offset the lack of squareness. All will be fine until you rotate the clutch knob, or rotate the polar scope itself. As soon as you do either of those your calibration is no longer offsetting the squareness error properly.

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "hudson_yak" mhacket@> wrote:

> >

> > I also spent many hours on this after getting mine, including reading this group a lot. The only good repeatable results came from wrapping the scope tube with tape (I used three layers of aluminum duct tape, roughly a half-inch-wide ring of it at each end of the tube itself). This provided an interference fit in the RA bore. The wavy washer is not needed in this case, and I don't use it.

> >

> > One advantage of this method is the scope does not rotate when you are adjusting the clutch. Good if you'd prefer the opening for the illuminator to stay oriented one way. The biggest advantage, though, is once the reticle is calibrated it stays calibrated.

> >

> > Mike

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jwaters125" jwaters125@> wrote:

> > >

> > > I have been having polar alignment problems for some time. I finally isolated the problem to the polar alignment scope. The reticule

> > > isn't aligned correctly to the RA axis. I would do a drift alignment

> > > but trees are blocking my southern view. Each night I have to spend

> > > 30 to 40 minutes aligning the reticule in the alignment scope. It's

> > > usually off about 1/2 the width of the field of view for the scope.

> > > I think the problem is that the mounting collar on the RA axis isn't square or at a right angle to the tube. I tried to over tighten the locking collar so the scope can't rotate in the RA shaft, then realign the reticule and rotate the RA axis to match the star pattern but that doesn't help. It eventually needs to realigned. I have also tried to wrap thin aluminum tape around the polar alignment

> > > tube to eliminate some of the free play between the tube and inner

> > > wall of the RA axis. There's about 0.023 inch of free play. This

> > > didn't help much. I called Losmandy tech support but they were not much help.

> > >

> > > Has anybody else experienced this problem and if so what do you do?

> > > I may have to find another site without trees so I can do a drift

> > > alignment.

> > >

> > > Jim

> > >

> >

>







----------------------------

#44112 Oct 1, 2009

Take it easy with the "send" button.



hudson_yak wrote (repeatedly): > I also spent many hours on this after getting mine ...



----------------------------

#44117 Oct 1, 2009

It's not that big a deal to get the polar scope aligned. It IS NOT aligned as received when it comes off the big boat from China. First thing is to get the reticle aligned with the center of the polar scope. There are 3 allen set screws with wrench size of .9mm or .035" at the back. Look in the forum for discussions on how to move the reticle. Caution and common sense is all that is required. Once the reticle is aligned then simply get it square in the bore of the G-11 or GM8. The accuracy is dependent on how square the polar scope is to the bore. MI-250 owners have more control over alignment due our outboard dovetail mounting with tight clearances and adjustment screws. MI-250 owners can dial in the polar scope to give repeatable 0:0 A&E values. I have a friend who regularly gets 0:0 A&E numbers on her G-11 Gemini system. The polar scope easily gets a mount closely polar aligned for astrophotography.



Keith



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "jwaters125" jwaters125@...> wrote:

>

> I have been having polar alignment problems for some time. I finally isolated the problem to the polar alignment scope. The reticule

> isn't aligned correctly to the RA axis. I would do a drift



----------------------------

#44122 Oct 2, 2009

I think the polar scopes are Japan. There are still a few things made in japan....



Greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith" keith.myers@...> wrote:

>

> It's not that big a deal to get the polar scope aligned. It IS NOT aligned as received when it comes off the big boat from China.



----------------------------

#44136 Oct 3, 2009

Greg, could be..... but I figure even Japanese manufacturers may be shipping out production to China for cost savings. My cynicism firmly in place.



Keith



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...> wrote:

>

> I think the polar scopes are Japan. There are still a few things made in japan....

>

> Greg N



----------------------------

#44142 Oct 3, 2009

I agree with your cynicism, but so far, I think the "made in" label is fairly accurate, and even if it is the case that your Japanese "made in" label is really outsourced Chinese, the odds are high that your unit has passed through some of the world's best qc/qa to get the "made in japan" label, as opposed to the "made in china." So, from that perspective, it may not matter. There is still a lot of excellent optics made in japan. At least for now.



regards

Greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith" keith.myers@...> wrote:

>

> Greg, could be..... but I figure even Japanese manufacturers may be shipping out production to China for cost savings. My cynicism firmly in place.

>

> Keith

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@> wrote:

> >

> > I think the polar scopes are Japan. There are still a few things made in japan....

> >

> > Greg N

>



----------------------------

#44146 Oct 4, 2009

I remember years ago that ITT/Thorn (a big UK TV manufacturer at the time)

said all their kit was proudly made in the UK, turns out that all the sub

assemblies were made in Taiwan and simply bolted to the chassis in England.



You could argue that most items are not home grown due to costs and it

matters not where a component was made, however it is a fine line as to how

much of a product needs to be assembled in a country to designate the label.



My opto autoguider box I made had: Veroboard and LED's made in China.

Resistors made in Korea. Quad opto chip made in India. and was soldered

together by me (English) using French electricity.



I must add that the coffee was Colombian ;o)



Badger

----- Original Message -----

From: "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 4:41 AM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Losmandy Polar Alignment Scope Problems





>I agree with your cynicism, but so far, I think the "made in" label is

>fairly accurate, and even if it is the case that your Japanese "made in"

>label is really outsourced Chinese, the odds are high that your unit has

>passed through some of the world's best qc/qa to get the "made in japan"

>label, as opposed to the "made in china." So, from that perspective, it

>may not matter. There is still a lot of excellent optics made in japan.

>At least for now.

>

> regards

> Greg N

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith" keith.myers@...> wrote:

>>

>> Greg, could be..... but I figure even Japanese manufacturers may be

>> shipping out production to China for cost savings. My cynicism firmly in

>> place.

>>

>> Keith

>>

>>

>> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@> wrote:

>> >

>> > I think the polar scopes are Japan. There are still a few things made

>> > in japan....

>> >

>> > Greg N

>>

>

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>





---------------







No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.14.3/2411 - Release Date: 10/03/09

06:20:00







----------------------------

#44153 Oct 4, 2009

Greg, even with a 'made in Japan' label, it is for sure obvious that there is no quality control taking place on the PS. As far as the reticle placement goes at least. Every PS I have come across in all the telescope fields I have visited have had a mis-aligned reticle if the owner was not aware of the problem and already fixed it themselves. I've probably aligned over a half dozen scope reticles in the field so far. I agree that the optics from Japan are fabulous.



Keith



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...> wrote:

>

> I agree with your cynicism, but so far, I think the "made in" label is fairly accurate, and even if it is the case that your Japanese "made in" label is really outsourced Chinese, the odds are high that your unit has passed through some of the world's best qc/qa to get the "made in japan" label, as opposed to the "made in china." So, from that perspective, it may not matter. There is still a lot of excellent optics made in japan. At least for now.

>

> regards

> Greg N

>



----------------------------

#44155 Oct 4, 2009

Well I wouldn't mind it if you aligned mine. I gave it a shot once and cracked the reticle. So I use it as is. I get within 10 arc minutes of the pole as a general rule, got dead nuts on about a week ago. (the data is provided by Argo Navis). I actually have two polar scopes, one from AP, the other from Losmandy. The alignment results with each are about the same, within ten arc minutes, sometimes better, sometiems worse.



Should I be expecting much more precision?



Greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith" keith.myers@...> wrote:

>

> Greg, even with a 'made in Japan' label, it is for sure obvious that there is no quality control taking place on the PS. As far as the reticle placement goes at least. Every PS I have come across in all the telescope fields I have visited have had a mis-aligned reticle if the owner was not aware of the problem and already fixed it themselves. I've probably aligned over a half dozen scope reticles in the field so far. I agree that the optics from Japan are fabulous.

>

> Keith

>

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@> wrote:

> >

> > I agree with your cynicism, but so far, I think the "made in" label is fairly accurate, and even if it is the case that your Japanese "made in" label is really outsourced Chinese, the odds are high that your unit has passed through some of the world's best qc/qa to get the "made in japan" label, as opposed to the "made in china." So, from that perspective, it may not matter. There is still a lot of excellent optics made in japan. At least for now.

> >

> > regards

> > Greg N

> >

>



----------------------------

#44159 Oct 5, 2009

Greg, I guess I have the soft touch as I've never chipped or cracked a reticle. I am aware of another astronomer that attempted the alignment after I explained how to do it and unfortunately he cracked his reticle. I am used to performing very fine alignments or repairs in electronics and optics so am used to being careful with small things. The thing that you have to realize is that the allen set screws are so tiny that they exert tremendous force on the edge of a .5mm thick piece of glass. Think of the woman in high heels on asphalt or linoleum scenario. A little 1/16 turn of the allen wrench will cause a very large relative motion and force on the reticle. It is imperative that you first loosen up the opposing screws in the direction you want to move before pushing the reticle in that direction.



I am regularly able to get a 1-2 arc-minute A&E alignment error with the polar scope. I first centered the reticle, then performed multiple PAC routines in the Gemini to get my A&E error down to 0:1. That was the residual mechanical error in the mount. Then because I use a MI-250 mount which has an outboard polar scope mount with 6 point alignent capabilities, I dialed in the polar scope mount to get me a absolutely dependable mount polar alignment of 1-2 A&E every time. The beauty of this arrangement is that even though the MI-250 polar scope mounting hardware is based on a removeable dovetail, it always goes back to the same pointing accuracy after each use and removal. I am very happy with polar alignment with the MI-250. It takes all of 5 minutes if that much and is easily within guide camera removal of tracking errors.



Keith



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@...> wrote:

>

> Well I wouldn't mind it if you aligned mine. I gave it a shot once and cracked the reticle. So I use it as is. I get within 10 arc minutes of the pole as a general rule, got dead nuts on about a week ago. (the data is provided by Argo Navis). I actually have two polar scopes, one from AP, the other from Losmandy. The alignment results with each are about the same, within ten arc minutes, sometimes better, sometiems worse.

>

> Should I be expecting much more precision?

>

> Greg N

>

> --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Keith" keith.myers@> wrote:

> >

> > Greg, even with a 'made in Japan' label, it is for sure obvious that there is no quality control taking place on the PS. As far as the reticle placement goes at least. Every PS I have come across in all the telescope fields I have visited have had a mis-aligned reticle if the owner was not aware of the problem and already fixed it themselves. I've probably aligned over a half dozen scope reticles in the field so far. I agree that the optics from Japan are fabulous.

> >

> > Keith

> >

> >

> > --- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "gnowellsct" tim71pos@> wrote:

> > >

> > > I agree with your cynicism, but so far, I think the "made in" label is fairly accurate, and even if it is the case that your Japanese "made in" label is really outsourced Chinese, the odds are high that your unit has passed through some of the world's best qc/qa to get the "made in japan" label, as opposed to the "made in china." So, from that perspective, it may not matter. There is still a lot of excellent optics made in japan. At least for now.

> > >

> > > regards

> > > Greg N

> > >

> >

>







----------------------------

#48212 Mar 7, 2011

I have a GM 8, non GoTo mount, with a polar alignment scope. I need some help.



If the reticle is first adjusted so that Ursa Major is on the right, and Cassiopeia is on the left, the position for the second star for alignment in the reticle, which is delta Ursa minor, is above Polaris, at around 11 o'clock. But that is not where delta ursa minor is in the sky!



I am using a "new" reticle, for years 05-10-20-30.



I have looked at David Kodama instructions, on the web, for using the polar mount.



What's wrong here? Any thoughts?



Thanks,



Pter



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#48216 Mar 7, 2011

Pter,

I will tell you how I do it, although probably not exactly recommended. I

look up in the sky and turn the polar scope until the position of Ursa Major

( The Big Dipper) in the scope matches its position in the sky. Simple and

good enough for most purposes. Give it a try and it will give you an idea

about everything is supposed to line up.

Steve ----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Rothstein" peter.rothstein@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, March 07, 2011 3:23 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] Using Polar Alignment Scope on GM 8





>I have a GM 8, non GoTo mount, with a polar alignment scope. I need some

>help.

>

> If the reticle is first adjusted so that Ursa Major is on the right, and

> Cassiopeia is on the left, the position for the second star for alignment

> in the reticle, which is delta Ursa minor, is above Polaris, at around 11

> o'clock. But that is not where delta ursa minor is in the sky!

>

> I am using a "new" reticle, for years 05-10-20-30.

>

> I have looked at David Kodama instructions, on the web, for using the

> polar mount.

>

> What's wrong here? Any thoughts?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Pter

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>



----------------------------

#48217 Mar 7, 2011

thanks, steve,



what you've done is the first step--i've done it also. i am trying to figure out the second step--delta ursa minor.



peter



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#48218 Mar 7, 2011

Peter,

I just started using the Losmandy polar scope after some years of inactivity, so I could be mistaken, but here is how I have been using mine recently. Besides Polaris, the reticle recognizes two other stars (not including ones in the southern hemisphere, which correspond to dashed radial lines). I start by looking for *any* visible star other than polaris. I have city lights to the north, and I never see more than one in the polar scope, and I have to strain to see that one. Then I rotate the polar scope until that star is within the field of expected positions. There are two rotations that provide a matching angle, corresponding to the second and third stars on the reticle, but one is a better match, because, after I adjust the mount to get Polaris in the proper place, the other star will be at an acceptable distance from the center, i.e. within the field delineated by the line segments around the star position. It will not be within the central gaps of the line segments, but it will not be totally outside or inside. There is only one rotation position that will do this for me at this time of year. If I remember correctly, that star is the reticle's "third star". So why don't I see the "second star"? As I look into the scope, the "third star is somewhere around 3 o'clock, and the expected position of "second star" is then at 7 o'clock or so. This means it is close to the horizon/light pollution, which makes it invisible. I remember some time years ago that I could see both stars, but so far never this year. After I have done all this I look at the position of U Ma in the sky and on the reticle, and while they don't look the same, they don't disagree too severely.

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Rothstein" peter.rothstein@...> wrote:

>

> I have a GM 8, non GoTo mount, with a polar alignment scope. I need some help.

>

> If the reticle is first adjusted so that Ursa Major is on the right, and Cassiopeia is on the left, the position for the second star for alignment in the reticle, which is delta Ursa minor, is above Polaris, at around 11 o'clock. But that is not where delta ursa minor is in the sky!

>

> I am using a "new" reticle, for years 05-10-20-30.

>

> I have looked at David Kodama instructions, on the web, for using the polar mount.

>

> What's wrong here? Any thoughts?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Pter

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#48219 Mar 7, 2011

Keep in mind that the polar alignment sight is an inverting telescope.

The view through the telescope is upside down compared to the naked eye

view. However, the icons for Cassiopeia and Ursa Major should be taken

as the naked eye view, not the inverted view.



Bud

On 3/7/2011 5:23 PM, Peter Rothstein wrote:

> I have a GM 8, non GoTo mount, with a polar alignment scope. I need some help.

>

> If the reticle is first adjusted so that Ursa Major is on the right, and Cassiopeia is on the left, the position for the second star for alignment in the reticle, which is delta Ursa minor, is above Polaris, at around 11 o'clock. But that is not where delta ursa minor is in the sky!

>

> I am using a "new" reticle, for years 05-10-20-30.

>

> I have looked at David Kodama instructions, on the web, for using the polar mount.

>

> What's wrong here? Any thoughts?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Pter

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

---------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#48227 Mar 9, 2011

Peter, sorry I managed to confuse the two stars and their positions. Of course they depend on time of day as well as date. Here is an attempt to explain my procedure more clearly. The main reason why I do it like this is that at my location I often can see neither Ursa Major nor Cassiopeia as a shape in the sky, due to light pollution. I therefore ignore the constellations on the reticle. Polaris is usually easy to find. I place it near reticle center. Then I shut off the illuminator and look for a second star. Usually I see only one. I then turn on the illuminator and rotate the scope to place one of the two northern sky stars on the reticle close to where the star was seen. Then I adjust the mount to place Polaris where it should be, and go back and forth between adjusting the angle and the mount until I see whether I am getting close for both Polaris and the other star. If not, I try the other star position on the reticle. For the one that seems to fit best I continue going back and forth until I am at the year I want for both stars. Often I cannot see the second star with the illuminator on, so I have to keep switching the illumination on and off during the process. The first time you do the alignment you may be better off using the constellation images on the reticle to confirm that you are using the right one of the star positions on the reticle.



----------------------------

#48863 Jun 3, 2011

Hi All, I am in Western Australia waiting for my gemini II system to be sorted which has set me thinking that I will require very good polar alignment to avoid cumulative error. So my question, hopefully with some Southern Hemisphere responders is.... How does the current build polar alignment scope perform around the very shy Sigma Octantis region? Is it a good fit in the head, without problems? I ask the latter question after reading a few posts some time ago about fit problems with the polar scope but they may have been referring to earlier builds. A final query.I may have to adjust the worm on the new mount to eliminate the jitters. What bulletin/s or images would you blokes recommend for the procedure with current build heads?



Thanking You, Wayne.

.



----------------------------

#49321 Aug 3, 2011

Hi, all.



I recently bought an essentially new (Feb. 2011) G-11, from a chap moving up to a Mach1. I've been familiarizing myself with the scope and its components, and ran into an issue with the illuminator for the polar alignment scope (the one with the integrated battery).



When I first tried to use the PAS, the illuminator failed to illuminate the reticle. The illuminator was functional-- I could see the LED light up when activated and not threaded into the PAS-- but the light either didn't make it to the reticle or was not sufficiently bright to illuminate it.



After looking at the PAS and illuminator indoors, I determined that the PAS was fine and that the problem was the illuminator.



The illuminator had some slightly translucent, white, rubbery (silicone?) stuff covering the LED. I had assumed this was to attenuate the light from the LED, and it certainly had that effect-- it attenuated the light so much that it wasn't enough to light up the reticle. After clearing the white stuff away, the reticle was illuminated fine.



So it works now, and that's all well and good, but I'm wondering whether the white stuff was supposed to be there in the first place; is my illuminator not as bright as it should be, possibly because the battery has been run down? I'd like to know, both to assuage my curiosity and so I have an idea what to expect from it in the future.



Thanks,



Justin



----------------------------

#49322 Aug 4, 2011

Justin



That will be the adhesive they use to mount the led (and board) into the

tube, saves it falling out when you change the battery, though seems

that the quality control department was on holiday when yours made it

out the factory.



Badger

On 04/08/2011 05:14, kiddsmith wrote:

> Hi, all.

>

> I recently bought an essentially new (Feb. 2011) G-11, from a chap moving up to a Mach1. I've been familiarizing myself with the scope and its components, and ran into an issue with the illuminator for the polar alignment scope (the one with the integrated battery).

>

> When I first tried to use the PAS, the illuminator failed to illuminate the reticle. The illuminator was functional-- I could see the LED light up when activated and not threaded into the PAS-- but the light either didn't make it to the reticle or was not sufficiently bright to illuminate it.

>

> After looking at the PAS and illuminator indoors, I determined that the PAS was fine and that the problem was the illuminator.

>

> The illuminator had some slightly translucent, white, rubbery (silicone?) stuff covering the LED. I had assumed this was to attenuate the light from the LED, and it certainly had that effect-- it attenuated the light so much that it wasn't enough to light up the reticle. After clearing the white stuff away, the reticle was illuminated fine.

>

> So it works now, and that's all well and good, but I'm wondering whether the white stuff was supposed to be there in the first place; is my illuminator not as bright as it should be, possibly because the battery has been run down? I'd like to know, both to assuage my curiosity and so I have an idea what to expect from it in the future.

>

> Thanks,

>

> Justin

>

>



----------------------------

#49324 Aug 4, 2011

One data point: On mine there was no 'gunk' on top of the LED.



Mark Christensen



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#49333 Aug 5, 2011

Thank you, Mark and David.



--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Christensen" mjcw500@...> wrote:

>

> One data point: On mine there was no 'gunk' on top of the LED.

>

> Mark Christensen

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#49516 Aug 29, 2011

I've checked everywhere and no one has the G-11 polar alignment scopes in stock. Why the shortage? Did the quake in Japan cause the backlog? When are they supposed to become available?



Thanks

Bart



----------------------------

#49517 Aug 29, 2011

They are never that *easy* to get, often involving six month waits; but the Japan business adds another dimension, so the answer is unclear.



Greg N

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bartjy" QTMServer@...> wrote:

>

> I've checked everywhere and no one has the G-11 polar alignment scopes in stock. Why the shortage? Did the quake in Japan cause the backlog? When are they supposed to become available?

>

> Thanks

> Bart

>



----------------------------

#49519 Aug 30, 2011

I'm guessing you already called Losmandy? I picked mine up about a year ago directly from Losmandy. No waiting or anything but that could be a different story now.



Jared

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bartjy" QTMServer@...> wrote:

>

> I've checked everywhere and no one has the G-11 polar alignment scopes in stock. Why the shortage? Did the quake in Japan cause the backlog? When are they supposed to become available?

>

> Thanks

> Bart

>



----------------------------

#49521 Aug 30, 2011

I talked with Scott at Losmandy about two months ago on the same subject. He told me that the problems in Japan have caused delivery issues and they would not be getting these for several months. I picked one up on Astromart a month or so ago for $110 and then was able to get the updaed reticle from Losmandy which cost another $60. You might look around there or CN and see if you can pick up one too.

Niel

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "bartjy" QTMServer@...> wrote:

>

> I've checked everywhere and no one has the G-11 polar alignment scopes in stock. Why the shortage? Did the quake in Japan cause the backlog? When are they supposed to become available?

>

> Thanks

> Bart

>



----------------------------

#52732 Apr 27, 2013

Hi,

I have a G-11 and just acquired a polar alignment scope for it.

While installing is pretty easy, my question is whether there is any calibration that must be performed before using it.



A few years ago I had a Vixen mount where the Polarscope was aligned to the time & date printed around the RA axis, but I guess this is not the case in the Losmandy version. Am I right in thinking that the procedure to align using the scope will involve repeatedly adjusting not only the altitude and azimuth of the mount, but also the RA or polarscope rotation?

Sounds more tricky than the method I was used to on the Vixen where you rotate the RA into position then place polaris in the right place in the reticule via the mount's alt/az controls.



Any advice welcome.

Thanks

Dave



----------------------------

#52734 Apr 28, 2013

It is the same no matter which mount you have.



You may need to align the reticle to the boresight

of the mount axis. There is nothing to calibrate in

the normal sense of that word. Sorry to be pedantic.



See post 51511 (and skip the first 9 steps as it covers

installing a new reticle in an old polar scope - you'll have

to do that after 2030 if I remember correctly). The target

you use need not be in perfect focus so you can do the procedure

looking across a garage or a basement. This is because you're

working on the boresight of the optics and mount so there is no

parallax effect. It just needs to be far enough away so the spot

isn't too fuzzy and indistinct for you to be able to estimate its

center. I found 1/4 inch black felt tip marker dot viewed from

across a two car garage to be adequate.



It may not be necessary to do anything if it checks out

alright. If it does not check out Ok then you'll need to

follow the rest of the instructions without, of course,

actually removing the reticule.



Mark Christensen



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#52735 Apr 29, 2013

Thanks Mark, that's useful.

I will bear that in mind.



Regards

Dave

--- In Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Christensen" mjcw500@...> wrote:

>

> It is the same no matter which mount you have.

>

> You may need to align the reticle to the boresight

> of the mount axis. There is nothing to calibrate in

> the normal sense of that word. Sorry to be pedantic.

>

> See post 51511 (and skip the first 9 steps as it covers

> installing a new reticle in an old polar scope - you'll have

> to do that after 2030 if I remember correctly).



----------------------------

#52737 Apr 29, 2013

You adjust the finder scope so that the orientation of the constellations in the rectal are the same as that in the sky. Then just put Polaris between the dotted lines and arrow that says Polaris. You will be very close to the almost perfectly aligned!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#53250 Aug 27, 2013

"Polar Finder" app by Jozef Lazar.



play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.techhead.polarfinder&hl=en



I was an (unpaid) beta-tester and am very pleased with the latest version of the app.



-Christopher Erickson



----------------------------

#53845 Feb 9 1:42 PM

What percentage of visual only observers use a polar alignment scope with your Losmandy mounts?�� I've got a GM8 on the way, and I didn't know if you are able to line it well enough by sighting through the tube, or if the scope is pretty essential.�� Thanks for any input.



----------------------------

#53846 Feb 9 1:46 PM

I used the polar scope on my G11 only when I was going to image. Sighting through the polar shaft

was good enough for visual use.



Don

----- Original Message -----

From: moonnerd@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 4:42 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] polar alignment scope





> What percentage of visual only observers use a polar alignment scope with your Losmandy mounts?

> I've got a GM8 on the way, and I didn't know if you are able to line it well enough by sighting

> through the tube, or if the scope is pretty essential. Thanks for any input.

>



----------------------------

#53847 Feb 9 1:51 PM

Depends on what you are doing. You want good polar alignment if you are using go to or imaging. Otherwise not too critical.Sent from my NOOK

Don Degidio djd521@...> wrote:

��I used the polar scope on my G11 only when I was going to image. Sighting through the polar shaft

was good enough for visual use.



Don



----- Original Message -----

From: moonnerd@...>

To: Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 4:42 PM

Subject: [Losmandy_users] polar alignment scope



> What percentage of visual only observers use a polar alignment scope with your Losmandy mounts?

> I've got a GM8 on the way, and I didn't know if you are able to line it well enough by sighting

> through the tube, or if the scope is pretty essential. Thanks for any input.

>



----------------------------

#53848 Feb 9 1:52 PM

The scope is not essential, but if you really want to get a good start

on really great polar alignment, in my book nothing beats having a polar

alignment scope with those little pictures of Cassiopeia, the Big

Dipper, and a couple of other stars to help you put Polaris where it

belongs.



IMHO, of course.





Don M.





On 2/9/14 3:42 PM, moonnerd@... wrote:

>

>

> What percentage of visual only observers use a polar alignment scope

> with your Losmandy mounts? I've got a GM8 on the way, and I didn't

> know if you are able to line it well enough by sighting through the

> tube, or if the scope is pretty essential. Thanks for any input.

>

> __._,_.



----------------------------

#53850 Feb 9 7:46 PM

i have a GM8 with a polar alignment scope. it works spot on and i can track for hours without problems. the lighted reticule is essential for lining up polaris and cassiopeia.



good luck

peter



----------------------------

#53851 Feb 9 10:34 PM

This is always amusing to us south ofthe equator. To point the PAS at Polaris I would have to feed itthrough the mount from the wrong side and hope neutrinos fromPolaris coming through the earth would hit some particles in thescope causing Cherenkov radiation.



Andrew

On 10/02/2014 8:52 AM, DON MOSES wrote:



.



The scope is not essential, but if you really want to geta good start

on really great polar alignment, in my book nothing beatshaving a polar

alignment scope with those little pictures of Cassiopeia,the Big

Dipper, and a couple of other stars to help you putPolaris where it

belongs.



IMHO, of course.



Don M.



On 2/9/14 3:42 PM, moonnerd@... wrote:

>

>

> What percentage of visual only observers use a polaralignment scope

> with your Losmandy mounts? I've got a GM8 on the way,and I didn't

> know if you are able to line it well enough bysighting through the

> tube, or if the scope is pretty essential. Thanks forany input.

>

> __._,_.



No virusfound in this message.

Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3697/7077 - Release Date:02/09/14





-- There's no point in being grown up if you can't be childish sometimes.-- Dr. Who



----------------------------

#53852 Feb 10 6:48 AM

��



----------------------------

#57192 Apr 1, 2016

I have a ZWO ASI124MM camera, and it has a 1/4"-20 hole in the case opposite the sensor (like on "top" or "the back of" the camera). If one of the polar hole dust covers were drilled and tapped for a bolt, and then the camera attached to that, couldn't you use one of these cameras -- WITH A SUITABLE LENS (that being the tricky part) -- be used as a polar alignment scope/camera?

Just wondering.

Bob



----------------------------

#57193 Apr 1, 2016

You probably could. You'd need to have a very solid attachment, and a way to focus, center, and align the camera properly with the axis. Then, you'll need some software to show you how to align the star pattern using a plate solution, or some other pattern matching. Could be a fun project, except that there are already plenty of other ways available for doing polar alignment.

Regards,

�� ��-Paul







----------------------------

#57195 Apr 2, 2016

Bob, ��Like a lot of other things, conception is one thing, execution is another. And the hard part (assuming you want to replicate the PoleMaster system) would be doing the software : You���d have to capture the frames first, then have a catalog of stars available, and then do a bunch of math to identify the pattern (first done in a dissertation from MIT in 1984 titled Model-Based Image Matching Using Location by Henry S. Baird ��� he used a linear programming algorithm), and then do more mathematics and software to generate the move instructions/queues for the operator. ��So if you���re looking for a software project to keep yourself busy on cloudy nights, have at it. But if you pay yourself a nickel an hour you���re better off just buying the PoleMaster. ��If you���re objective is just to avoid getting down on your knees to look through the standard polar scope, sure, that would be easy. Finding the necessary lens is easy also just do the simple arithmetic necessary to get a range of acceptable focal lengths (based on the field of view you want and the size of the chip in your camera) and then just go to Surplus Shed. Making the housing and bracket to hold it boresighted properly is a job for a lathe. Then use something like PHD or something else as the capture program. ��But if your objective is to avoid groveling under the mount looking up through the polar scope (assuming you have one) it would be easier to just make a right angle adapter as several of us have done using a generic right angle viewer for cameras (look in the Files section of the Group). Less than $40. That way you get direct (no computer in the loop) feed back between your hands that make the adjustment and your eyes that see the effect. ��If you don���t have an existing polar scope I suggest you just buy the PoleMaster. If I didn���t already have the Kenko with the updated reticule that is what I would do. ��Mark C.



----------------------------

#57289 Apr 18, 2016

Hi Mark!

It looks like the way QHY is doing it is just pure math. They just watch how some dots that you select move while the scope is moved in RA. That seems "easy" enough. :) My trouble would be getting the images from the camera, and camera control, and different kinds of cameras, and all that. Maybe I'll just buy one of these. :)

I don't have a need for good polar alignment, yet, but may work on this, like you suggest, when it's cloudy, which might become a habit around New Mexico this year.��

Thanks!

Bob

-----

Bob,��Like a lot of other things, conception is one thing, execution is another. And the hard part (assuming you want to replicate the PoleMaster system) would be doing the software : You.d have to capture the frames first, then have a catalog of stars available, and then do a bunch of math to identify the pattern (first done in a dissertation from MIT in 1984 titled��Model-Based Image Matching Using Location��by Henry S. Baird . he used a linear programming algorithm), ...Mark Christensen



----------------------------

#57297 Apr 20, 2016

While I've already got a PoleMaster for my G11 it looks like SharpCap is working on PA as well. This would eliminate the need to write any software.

Polar Alignment - SharpCap

Polar Alignment - SharpCap Polar Alignment is a new feature in SharpCap 2.9. The idea was inspired by the PhotoPolarAlign application created by Themos Tsikas.



----------------------------

#60186 Oct 23, 2017

Does theAstro-Physics Right-Angle Polar AlignmentScopefit the losmandymounts?��Leroy



----------------------------

#60188 Oct 23, 2017

Unfortunately, no it does not. Look at the PoleMaster instead.

Larry Hoffman



On Oct 23, 2017, at 4:32 AM, 'lmarion' lmarion@... [Losmandy_users] Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Does theAstro-Physics Right-Angle Polar Alignment Scopefit the losmandy mounts?��Leroy



----------------------------

#60189 Oct 23, 2017

Or a right angle adapter from a camera:www.ericchesak.com/Galleries/DIY/Polar-Scope-Adapter/



The Pentax unit is really deluxe, but inverts.�� So��I'm making another for a Canon RA adapter that keeps everything upright. Simple and very effective, if all you're after is the right angle'ness.

My 2 cents...

Eric



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