Re: [ap-gto] Cp 4 controller compatible with AP600EGTO ?


Sep 19, 1999

 


----------------------------

#152 Sep 19, 1999

Thought I'd pose a question to the group.

My AP 600EGTO hand controller has version 2.2 and my manual is dated

11/2/98. Method 1 suggests a star greater than +/- 4 hrs RA from the

pole Why in the first method of polar alignment does the manual state

that Arcturus is not a good star for aligning since it is too close to

Polaris in RA? Polaris has an RA around 2 H, Arcturus is around 15 H,

what am I missing?

Also, are the upgrades to the servo box and hand controller going to be

available soon? I can't wait.

Would anyone volunteer any method to get a closer polar alignment

besides Method 1? Every time I try to align and try to refine via an

additional iteration as stated in the manual, it doesn't get much

better. Can anyone help?

I have read Roland's modified method but I need to get past Method 1 and

get close before I refine.



Thanks in advance,

Jim Fakatselis



----------------------------

#153 Sep 19, 1999

Jim Fakatselis wrote:

> Thought I'd pose a question to the group.

> My AP 600EGTO hand controller has version 2.2 and my manual is dated

> 11/2/98. Method 1 suggests a star greater than +/- 4 hrs RA from the



Jim,



You didn't say whether you were having trouble with tracking or with pointing.

If it's pointing, you may also want to look at the orthogonality of your setup.



I use method 1 (N-Polar calibrate) exclusively, and ususally end up with only

2-3 sec. of drift in either axis over a 10 minute period. This is ok for me since

I am using either the T&A or self-guided modes of the ST7. Here is a track list

from my 10 min. T&A run on NGC 6946 last week. Pixel scale is 1 sec. per

pixel. The first column is DEC and the second column is RA. I had used Deneb

for alignment, and iterated about 5 times.



Version = 1

Snapshots = 20

Snapshot_time = 30.00

Temperature = -4.82

Height = 510

Width = 765

Offset = 0

0,0

0,-1

0,-1

-1,-2

-1,-1

-1,-1

-1,-1

-1,-1

-1,-3

-2,-3

-2,-4

-2,-4

-3,-3

-3,-3

-3,-3

-3,-4

-3,-5

-3,-5

-4,-6

-3,-6

End



I don't know the answer to the Arcturus puzzle, except that Arcturus doesn't

work well for me either, so I avoid it. Perhaps it is because Arcturus is almost

exactly 12 hours in RA from Polaris.



As for iterating, this works great for me and the more iterations I do the better

the alignment gets. Charles S. has suggested iterating on one star until it's good

then picking a second star on the other side and re-running the N-Polar alignment

procedure using the second star.



Bob Kuberek



----------------------------

#156 Sep 19, 1999

Hi Jim:

> Method 1 suggests a star greater than +/- 4 hrs RA from the

> pole Why in the first method of polar alignment does the manual state

> that Arcturus is not a good star for aligning since it is too close to

> Polaris in RA? Polaris has an RA around 2 H, Arcturus is around 15 H,

> what am I missing?



Perhaps Charles could comment, but I think what the manual should state

is that the best alignment stars should be 4-8 hr. RA from the pole,

preferably at declinations below 0. Arcturus is nearly opposite Polaris

(close to 12 hrs. away) and would take several iterations to work

properly.



Previously, Charles indicated that a new two star alignement would be

available which sounds very promising.

> Would anyone volunteer any method to get a closer polar alignment

> besides Method 1? Every time I try to align and try to refine via an

> additional iteration as stated in the manual, it doesn't get much

> better. Can anyone help?



Get the polar alignement scope--it's the easiest way.



Also, check your orthogonality.



Derek



----------------------------

#157 Sep 19, 1999

Get the polar alignement scope--it's the easiest way.

>

> Also, check your orthogonality.

>

> Derek



Hi Derek,

I have the polar alignment scope but I have not installed it yet. I

understand that it first needs to be aligned coaxial with the RA axis

then it can be usedproperly. Any tips on getting it coaxial? I have a

lot of trees in my back yard and can't sight a far away HV insulator.

Could it be aligned at night?

Also seems confusing on the polar reticle. What stars correspond to the

reticle marks? It's not clear from the documentation.

Thanks for your assistance.

Regards,

Jim



----------------------------

#158 Sep 19, 1999

I have the polar alignment scope but I have not installed it yet. I

> understand that it first needs to be aligned coaxial with the RA axis

> then it can be usedproperly. Any tips on getting it coaxial?



There should be some instructions, and I poseted my thoughts on message

#2 of this e-group.

> I have a

> lot of trees in my back yard and can't sight a far away HV insulator.

> Could it be aligned at night?



I think it would be very difficult. Perhaps you can set up during the

day in front of your house just to align the scope--then you could sight

something far away.

> Also seems confusing on the polar reticle. What stars correspond to the

> reticle marks? It's not clear from the documentation.



If you look at a map, it is confusing. Alpha, Delta, and Beta

correspond to Polaris, Delta Ursae Minoris, and Beta Ursae Minoris

(sorry, I forgot their common names). When you look through the scope,

turn the axes so that Polaris and Delta are in their respective

circles. The dashed line will point toward Beta, which is out of the

field.



If you look at a map, the angles don't match--the reason is that the

polar scope is a refractor and the image is reversed. Since you are

looking at the Alpha-Delta line directly through the scope and the

Alpha-Beta line naked eye, this illusion is created.



Anyway, good luck--my illuminator just went out, so no polar alignment

for me!



Derek







----------------------------

#161 Sep 20, 1999

The polar alignment routine using 4 stars ie: using the n-polar aligment

mode with at least 2.4 firmware will not require you to move the scope by

hand anytime, other then the inital pointing, but will permit you to get

VERY accurate polar alignment. I have done 35 mins unguided prime photos

with my 1200 using my polar aligmnent routiens with 4 stars and medium to

high power eyepiece., I use deneb, vega, arturaus, and sometimes a variety

of stars for the fourth one. remember the key here is repetition, ie: go

back and forth between the selected star and then the next and the next, and

then start al over again, I do the whole sequenece oin this form. first star

choosen 4 times back and forth from polaris autoslewing and thne second star

4 times etc... and then I do this same to all the way to the 4th star or 3rd

star and then I start all over again with ther orignal 1st star. I do this

proces 3 times, by the third iteration the stars always fall dead center all

the time. perfect polar alignment.



- charles

----- Original Message -----

From: Derek Wong dawong@...>

To: ap-gto@egroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 8:12 PM

Subject: [ap-gto] Re: AP 600E Polar Alignment Question





> Hi Jim:

>

> > Method 1 suggests a star greater than +/- 4 hrs RA from the

> > pole Why in the first method of polar alignment does the manual state

> > that Arcturus is not a good star for aligning since it is too close to

> > Polaris in RA? Polaris has an RA around 2 H, Arcturus is around 15 H,

> > what am I missing?

>

> Perhaps Charles could comment, but I think what the manual should state

> is that the best alignment stars should be 4-8 hr. RA from the pole,

> preferably at declinations below 0. Arcturus is nearly opposite Polaris

> (close to 12 hrs. away) and would take several iterations to work

> properly.

>

> Previously, Charles indicated that a new two star alignement would be

> available which sounds very promising.

>

> > Would anyone volunteer any method to get a closer polar alignment

> > besides Method 1? Every time I try to align and try to refine via an

> > additional iteration as stated in the manual, it doesn't get much

> > better. Can anyone help?

>

> Get the polar alignement scope--it's the easiest way.

>

> Also, check your orthogonality.

>

> Derek

>

---------------

>

> eGroups.com home: www.egroups.com/group/ap-gto

> www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#162 Sep 20, 1999

Hello >

> Also, check your orthogonality.

>

What can i do to verify orthogonality.I have a C8 and a ap900 gto and

i have some problems with the precisions of pointing of the mount.

When i press Rcal to recalibrate on a star (for exemple deneb) then i

can slew to another star (for exemple polaris).Polaris is away of the

center of the ocular.If i press Rcal 3,4 or 5 times (with different

star) on the same night then i slew to polaris,i can't see polaris

with the ocular:the precision is decreasing!!!

What's wrong,orthogonality or else?

Is the horizontality important with the polar alignement scope?

Bye

Vincent FRANCE



----------------------------

#165 Sep 20, 1999

visonneau-vincent wrote:

> Hello

> >

> > Also, check your orthogonality.

> >

> What can i do to verify orthogonality.I have a C8 and a ap900 gto and

> i have some problems with the precisions of pointing of the mount.



Regarding orthogonality, there's a bit in the GTE manual on it--p. 21 in mine.



Bob Kuberek



----------------------------

#423 Mar 25, 2000

Greetings,



I've been following the discussion on tightening the 600E mount to it's base

plate during final stages of polar alignment. For those of us who use a

portable pier, fine adjustment is extremely easy to do.



After performing the initial gross alignment, simply tighten the two screws

by any means you like - either singly or in unison, it doesn't matter - and

then bring Polaris dead center by making fine adjustments to the turnbuckles

on the tensioning rods that give the pier it's stability.



I think it was a suggestion that Marj made some time ago and I've been doing

that, successfully, for many months.



Larry Denmark



E-mail . . . kldenmark@...

Web site . . home.att.net/~kldenmark/



----------------------------

#424 Mar 25, 2000

That's a good method but performing that same adjustment to the wooden tripod is

not the same!

Jim



Larry Denmark wrote:

> Greetings,

>

> I've been following the discussion on tightening the 600E mount to it's base

> plate during final stages of polar alignment. For those of us who use a

> portable pier, fine adjustment is extremely easy to do.

>

> After performing the initial gross alignment, simply tighten the two screws

> by any means you like - either singly or in unison, it doesn't matter - and

> then bring Polaris dead center by making fine adjustments to the turnbuckles

> on the tensioning rods that give the pier it's stability.

>

> I think it was a suggestion that Marj made some time ago and I've been doing

> that, successfully, for many months.

>

> Larry Denmark

>

> E-mail . . . kldenmark@...

> Web site . . home.att.net/~kldenmark/

>

---------------

> Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

> Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

> registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

> click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954000210/

>

> -- Talk to your group with your own voice!

> -- www.egroups.com/VoiceChatPage?listName=ap-gto&m=1







----------------------------

#427 Mar 25, 2000

I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP

600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably

don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are

there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:



www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm



Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these

puppies are sold are on the page above.



Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone

happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store

to find out?



Ron Wodaski



----------------------------

#430 Mar 25, 2000

Hi Larry,

Looks like another reason for me to get a pier, oh darn :-)

Stephen



-----Original Message-----

From: Jim Fakatselis jfakatse@...>

To: ap-gto@egroups.com ap-gto@egroups.com>

Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:10 AM

Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Fine adjustments to 600E GTO



>That's a good method but performing that same adjustment to the wooden

tripod is >not the same!

>Jim

>

>Larry Denmark wrote:

>

>> Greetings,

>>

>> I've been following the discussion on tightening the 600E mount to it's

base >> plate during final stages of polar alignment. For those of us who use a

>> portable pier, fine adjustment is extremely easy to do.

>>

>> After performing the initial gross alignment, simply tighten the two

screws >> by any means you like - either singly or in unison, it doesn't matter -

and >> then bring Polaris dead center by making fine adjustments to the

turnbuckles >> on the tensioning rods that give the pier it's stability.

>>

>> I think it was a suggestion that Marj made some time ago and I've been

doing >> that, successfully, for many months.

>>

>> Larry Denmark

>>

>> E-mail . . . kldenmark@...

>> Web site . . home.att.net/~kldenmark/

>>

---------------

>> Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

>> Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

>> registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

>> click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954000210/

>>

>> -- Talk to your group with your own voice!

>> -- www.egroups.com/VoiceChatPage?listName=ap-gto&m=1

>

>

---------------

>Get your bargains at AndysGarage.com!

>click.egroups.com/1/2579/3/_/3615/_/954000618/

>

>-- Create a poll/survey for your group!

>-- www.egroups.com/vote?listname=ap-gto&m=1

>

>



----------------------------

#431 Mar 25, 2000

Hi Ron,

The manual says M12, but not sure of the pitch if it might be fine or not.

So far I managed to keep the right tension on them where I can adjust the

altitude fairly easily. But this might be a good way to eliminate another

Allen wrench.

Does McMaster Carr have anything in SS this large?

I like the "bat handles" you found.

I wait for you to get the other parts, then I'll order some.

Thanks for nice visual instructions.

Stephen





-----Original Message-----

From: Ron Wodaski ronw@...>

To: ap-gto@egroups.com ap-gto@egroups.com>

Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 1:07 PM

Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series



>I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP

>600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably

>don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are

>there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:

>

> www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

>

>Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these

>puppies are sold are on the page above.

>

>Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone

>happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store

>to find out?

>

>Ron Wodaski

>

>

---------------

>Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

>Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

>registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

>click.egroups.com/1/2622/3/_/3615/_/954011255/

>

>-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!

>-- www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1

>

>



----------------------------

#436 Mar 25, 2000

Ron,



Thank you for posting the pictures. Very informative. Need to look at

doing this for my 1200.



John Gleason, dvj@...

www.celestialimage.com







---------- > From: Ron Wodaski ronw@...>

> To: ap-gto@egroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series

> Date: Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:08 AM

>

> I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP

> 600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You

probably > don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details

are > there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth

doing: >

> www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm

>

> Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these

> puppies are sold are on the page above.

>

> Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone

> happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware

store > to find out?

>

> Ron Wodaski

>

>

---------------

> Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

> Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

> registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

> click.egroups.com/1/2622/3/_/3615/_/954011255/

>

> -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!

> -- www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1

>

>







----------------------------

#457 Mar 27, 2000

Ron,

You are full of good ideas and your explanations are very clear (looking for

a technical writer/customer service job?). The side bolts on the 600E mount

are M12x1.75P. An alternate supplier is Reid Tool Supply Co.

Phone:1-800-253-0421 (at least as of 1997). We have provided them to several

people in northern latitudes since the normal knob would be in the way. I

don't know the exact part number.



We did consider this type of handle a couple of years ago, but did not add

them as a standard item to the mount for several reasons:

The stainless handles are very expensive, but less expensive ones would

rust. Since few people would realize the benefits, the cost was prohibitive.

The mounts are already expensive to produce.

The handles would protrude from the side and would be likely to be damaged

when people lay their mounts down (and they do), especially the plastic

handles.



Having said this, it is a great idea for our tips and techniques section of

the web site, if we ever have time to work on it.



Astro-Physics



-----Original Message-----

From:.Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@...]

Sent:.Saturday, March 25, 2000 1:09 PM

To:.ap-gto@egroups.com;

Subject:.[ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series



I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP

600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably

don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are

there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:



www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm



Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these

puppies are sold are on the page above.



Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone

happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store

to find out?



Ron Wodaski





---------------

Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

click.egroups.com/1/2622/3/_/3615/_/954011255/



-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!

-- www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1



----------------------------

#458 Mar 27, 2000

Thanks for the numbers of the side bolts. For myself, I never lay the mount

down, so I'd like to get some knobs on the side that can be tightened by

hand. The zinc will corrode a bit, but not in a messy way, and the ones I

purchased have steel inserts for the threads, so I don't have to worry about

them binding after a few dewy nights. It won't bother me if I have to change

them out after a couple of years.



I can understand the logic behind wanting to put something out the door that

is affordable and supportable; makes sense to me -- you can't possibly make

a perfect anything; everyone has different ways of working. It's fun, though

to come up with alternate solutions so that different folks can choose what

works best for them. After all, even very high-end automobiles are always

getting customized; that's part of the fun. g>



I've written a number of books on technical subjects for general audiences,

so I guess you could say I have explaining things in my blood. g> It's just

something I love to do. I like to see explanations that work for the

broadest possible range of folks. It's challenging to put aside one's own

assumptions and write with your audience uppermost in your mind, but that's

really the best way to convey technical information. Being objective about

your assumptions is also difficult, but necessary.



I know that you are looking for someone onsite for your technical

writer/customer service job. I am interested in pursuing this, but would

have to think about relocation.



Ron Wodaski



-----Original Message-----

From: Marj [mailto:astrophy@...]

Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 12:54 PM

To: ap-gto@egroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series





Ron,

You are full of good ideas and your explanations are very clear (looking for

a technical writer/customer service job?). The side bolts on the 600E mount

are M12x1.75P. An alternate supplier is Reid Tool Supply Co.

Phone:1-800-253-0421 (at least as of 1997). We have provided them to several

people in northern latitudes since the normal knob would be in the way. I

don't know the exact part number.



We did consider this type of handle a couple of years ago, but did not add

them as a standard item to the mount for several reasons:

The stainless handles are very expensive, but less expensive ones would

rust. Since few people would realize the benefits, the cost was prohibitive.

The mounts are already expensive to produce.

The handles would protrude from the side and would be likely to be damaged

when people lay their mounts down (and they do), especially the plastic

handles.



Having said this, it is a great idea for our tips and techniques section of

the web site, if we ever have time to work on it.



Astro-Physics



-----Original Message-----

From:.Ron Wodaski [mailto:ronw@...]

Sent:.Saturday, March 25, 2000 1:09 PM

To:.ap-gto@egroups.com;

Subject:.[ap-gto] Replacement azimuth clamps for 600E series



I have taken some pictures of the replacement clamps I installed on my AP

600 base. They work very well, and are really easy to install. You probably

don't need detailed instructions, but I posted them anyway. The details are

there so folks can see what the result is, and decide if it's worth doing:



www.multimediamadness.net/wodaski/ap600clamp.htm



Links to the McMaster-Carr web site and to the catalog page where these

puppies are sold are on the page above.



Next project: those big bolts that lock down altitude adjustment. Anyone

happen to know the thread on those, to save me a trip to the hardware store

to find out?



Ron Wodaski





---------------

Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

click.egroups.com/1/2622/3/_/3615/_/954011255/



-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!

-- www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1







---------------

You have a voice mail message waiting for you at iHello.com:

click.egroups.com/1/2377/3/_/3615/_/954190313/



-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!

-- www.egroups.com/cal?listname=ap-gto&m=1







----------------------------

#460 Mar 27, 2000

Hi all:



My new 600E GOTO arrived this morning! I then spent the pm reading the

instructions and then phoning Christine at AP for an answer to a very

stupid question on my part. Don't ask - it was really, really

stupid!!!! But she is a very nice lady to talk to. And very

understanding.



Now for a clear night!



I think that a pier will be on the list next. Are they making more any

time soon I wonder?



Chris. Spratt



----------------------------

#461 Mar 27, 2000

Hi all:

>

>My new 600E GOTO arrived this morning! I then spent the pm reading the

>instructions and then phoning Christine at AP for an answer to a very

>stupid question on my part. Don't ask - it was really, really

>stupid!!!! But she is a very nice lady to talk to. And very

>understanding.





Congratulations!



I'm glad Christine could get away from making a

big pot of focuser grease to answer your question. ;-)



Rich





>

>Now for a clear night!

>

>I think that a pier will be on the list next. Are they making more any

>time soon I wonder?

>

>Chris. Spratt

>

>

---------------

>Good friends, school spirit, hair-dos you'd like to forget.

>Classmates.com has them all. And with 4.4 million alumni already

>registered, there's a good chance you'll find your friends here:

>click.egroups.com/1/2637/3/_/3615/_/954200896/

>

>-- Create a poll/survey for your group!

>-- www.egroups.com/vote?listname=ap-gto&m=1

>

>



----------------------------

#463 Mar 27, 2000

Hi Ron



User suggested improvements - from the current metal motor covers to

the lever handles on the tripods. - were the source of many updates to

the GM8 and G11 mounts. There is always someone out there who conceives

an elegant improvement to a product(g).



-David



PS: Another thanks and kudos for your own improvements!

On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:17:48 -0800, Ron Wodaski wrote:



>I can understand the logic behind wanting to put something out the door that

>is affordable and supportable; makes sense to me -- you can't possibly make

>a perfect anything; everyone has different ways of working. It's fun, though

>to come up with alternate solutions so that different folks can choose what

>works best for them. After all, even very high-end automobiles are always

>getting customized; that's part of the fun. g>



----------------------------

#467 Mar 29, 2000

Hi all -



As a follow up to my issue last weekend (the counterweight shaft on my new 600E

GTO seemed too wide on one end), I talked with AP on Monday and they immediately

sent out a new shaft. The new one arrived today and works fine, confirming that

the original shaft was too wide at the non-threaded end. On the new one, the

counterweight slips on with no problem.



The response from AP was terrific; as usual, they were ready and willing to do

whatever it takes. Thanks AP! Now if only the clouds would clear . . .



Best regards,



Paul Schroeder



----------------------------

#469 Mar 29, 2000

Thanks again, Ron. Please let us know how the new handles work out when you

have a chance. I am following you modifications with great interest. I have

just joined this group. Are there any previous modifications I missed?



Peter



----------------------------

#490 Apr 4, 2000

This is a repeat post as the other one from last night never appeared.



I've had problems DigitalSky Voice with and without the cheap

microphone I use? The program quits after one or two inputs from mike

or mouse. I use a laptop from IBM 1412i Thinkpad with 64k ram,

soundcard, 366 Celeron chip, all on Com 1 with 6'cable. No problem

at all linking to the 600E GOTO mount and the first one or two moves

(voice or mouse) do work but very slowly. After that no response

although I can quit the program okay. Running Win98.



Ideas anyone (the computer very expensive is new last summer!!!)



Chris. Spratt



----------------------------

#491 Apr 5, 2000

Hello Chris, and others who may of seen such a problem,



Here is what I would like you to do:



This problem is due to a run-time file problem and can happen with some

implmentations of DSV.



ok 1st, what release / version was your original cd/rom ??? when you

first bring up DSV what release number is in the 'main info window upper

left corner in green on the screen...2.xx.xx



1) using the control panel in windows use add/remove to remove DSV

(digitalsky voice ) from your computer. If the system assks to remove

'shared components' say YES to this.



2) after windows completly removes DSV

delete the following directories with windows explorer please:



c:\program files\astro-physics -- delete from astro-physics and down



c:\program files\common files\microsoft shared\speechengines

-- delete from speechengines and down



c:\windows\speech -- delete from speech and down



3) remember only the directories above, do not delete program files, only

the botton directories and down from the point i indicated.



4) now re-install your cd/rom of DSV at this point. simply go through the

entire reintall. if your release version of before 2.02.18 ..then vist

please the web site and obtain the latest and greatest release frorm the

transporter room the current release if 2.02.18 obtained by downloading

setup16.exe from the transporter room, your enterance to the transporter

room is obtained with a password found on the inside cover of your users

manual.



5) install the setup16.exe if you do not have 2.02.18 yet.



6) re-start DSV now and re-enter your location etc... make sure you used

originally the mike wizard to ensure the proper input volumes for DSV.



by the way what type of computer?? ..i know you are on windows 98...but

what is the brand of pc..laptop or desktop?? and what is the sound card make

please?



Thanx...please let me know how it goes...i am here to help in any way I

can



Charles Sinsofsky

www.digitalskyvoice.com

author: DigitalSky Voice

email: strfire@...





----- Original Message -----

From: Chris Spratt cspratt@...>

To: ap-gto@egroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 9:30 PM

Subject: [ap-gto] DigitalSky Voice and AP600E





> This is a repeat post as the other one from last night never appeared.

>

> I've had problems DigitalSky Voice with and without the cheap

> microphone I use? The program quits after one or two inputs from mike

> or mouse. I use a laptop from IBM 1412i Thinkpad with 64k ram,

> soundcard, 366 Celeron chip, all on Com 1 with 6'cable. No problem

> at all linking to the 600E GOTO mount and the first one or two moves

> (voice or mouse) do work but very slowly. After that no response

> although I can quit the program okay. Running Win98.

>

> Ideas anyone (the computer very expensive is new last summer!!!)

>

> Chris. Spratt

>

>

---------------

> You can win $1000!

> Time-limited offer. Enter today at:

> click.egroups.com/1/2864/3/_/3615/_/954898225/

---------------

>

>

>







----------------------------

#506 Apr 7, 2000

Hi all -



Well, I've had my 600 for a few weeks now, and I've actually had a few nights

that were clear! My initial comments relative to the mount will surely echo

what others have said.



In short, it is terrific -- extremely solid and stable. I'm mainly using my

Traveler on it, and as you might expect this combination is incredibly stable.

I've also put my C8 on it, with similar results. While I shouldn't be

surprised, the difference between this mount and my Great Polaris is really

quite dramatic, particularly in terms of stability. Of course, at roughly 5x

the price, the differences should be quite dramatic!



Also, while it is much bigger than the Great Polaris, I've found that setup time

isn't that much longer -- maybe 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes to get the mount

set and roughly polar aligned.



Pointing accuracy so far has been pretty good, with most (but not all) items

showing up in the field of view of a 9mm Nagler. I should note that both times

I've used the mount I used the one star + Polaris method, but only had time to

do one or two alignment passes. I would guess with further practice and greater

precision on my part that pointing accuracy will continue to improve.



I still need to tweak my C8 to make it orthogonal, but that will have to wait

until I have more time. Overall, I'm quite pleased with the mount, and am

looking forward to having more time with it. Just need these clouds to go away!

Hopefully before too long I can get the Traveler out and try a few experiments

with unguided photography.



Best regards,



Paul Schroeder



----------------------------

#522 Apr 11, 2000

Anyone know what the tip polarity is on the DC power cable? Is the tip

center negative or positive?



----------------------------

#536 Apr 12, 2000

Positive

Marjorie Christen

Astro-Physics



-----Original Message-----

From:.Chris Spratt [mailto:cspratt@...]

Sent:.Tuesday, April 11, 2000 1:27 PM

To:.ap-gto@egroups.com;

Subject:.[ap-gto] DC power cable for AP600E Goto



Anyone know what the tip polarity is on the DC power cable? Is the tip

center negative or positive?





---------------

You have a voice mail message waiting for you at iHello.com:

click.egroups.com/1/2936/3/_/3615/_/955477645/

---------------



----------------------------

#545 Apr 17, 2000

Hi everybody



I am a newbie on this list.

I am retired and I live in Provence in the South of France.

I built an observatory above my garage in the garden.

I received my new telescope one month ago.

It is a 155 EDFS refractor with a 600E GTO mount.



For the moment I am fighting with the problem of the safe zone.

I understand it is the angle between the optical axis and the vertical

under which the OTA could hit the tripod (or the pier in my case).

In other respects the overturn zone is comprised between the hour angles

of 10:40 (OTA towards West) and 22:40 or - 1:20 (OTA towards East).

As a result there is a very large safe zone for the hour angles

close to -1:20.I give more details hereafter.

Did you make the same observations?

(I apologize if the subject has already been discussed in your list).

Is there anybody at ASTROPHYSICS I could write to?

Which e-mail?



Thank you for advising me.

Regards

Philippe Bodart.



1.Overturn zone.



The overturn zone is comprised between the hour angles of 10:40

(OTA towards West) and 22:40 or - 1:20 (OTA towards East).

This zone is independant of the set up of the safe zone (see further on).

It operates if you ask for a "go to".On the other hand with the keypad

buttons you can reach any point geometrically accessible.



It is tricky as it is possible to leave the hour movement working for a while

without any trouble after having reached the aimed object.

Unfortunately it increases the size of the safe zone when the OTA

is close to the vertical towards East (see further on).

It is a pity that this zone cannot be set up.



2.Safe zone.



It is the angle between the optical axis and the vertical under

which the OTA could hit the tripod (or the pier in my case).

The most dangerous zone is obviously related to an hour angle of -1:20

(see above).I decided to recut the collar of my pier but you will see

that it remains relatively annoying with a camera.

With HA = -1:20 I rotated the OTA until it hit the pier and I noted

the related value of the declination.The safe angle is the complement

to 90. of the altitude (that can be calculated as a function of the hour angle,

of the declination and of the latitude of the site with the ad'hoc trigo

formula).The safe angle is not the same according to the way you are

going towards the pier (N side or S side).

My results are the following:

-with an eyepiece 16.(N side) and 18. (S side).

-with the camera "horizontal" 23.(N side) and 16.(S side).

-with the camera "vertical" 16. (N side) and 16. (S side).

You see that with the maximum allowed set up of 20. it remains

a risk with the camera "horizontal" (in fact parallel to the RA axis,

that allows you to have the N upside on the photos).

The set up of the safe zone prevents the OTA from tilting less than the

requested value to the vertical , even if it is not dangerous.

It is the case for hour angles bigger than 0:00 for example (the system

ignores the azimuth).

If you ask for a "go to" to a position comprised in the safe zone there

is no movement and the keyboard displays the following message:

"Outside safe zone.Slewing canceled".

On the other hand with the keypad buttons you can reach any point

geometrically accessible.



Once again it is a pity you cannot set up the overturn zone as the choice

made by the manufacturer spoils the safe zone.

On the other hand it is a pity that the system ignores the azimuth when

deciding if the movement is dangerous or not.

It took me a long time to realize all that and it is also a pity that

the handbook is not more explicit.







----------------------------

#559 Apr 27, 2000

Dear Mr. Bodart,

Welcome to the list. At the present time, the safe zone setting is a simple

circle around the zenith that the user can set on the hand controller.

Perhaps more complex safe zone controls can be incorporated into DigitalSky

Voice in the future. Charles, are you listening?

Marjorie Christen

Astro-Physics



-----Original Message-----

From:.Philippe BODART [mailto:phbodart@...]

Sent:.Monday, April 17, 2000 10:15 AM

To:.AP-GTO List;

Subject:.[ap-gto] Safe zone of the 600E GTO mount.



Hi everybody



I am a newbie on this list.

I am retired and I live in Provence in the South of France.

I built an observatory above my garage in the garden.

I received my new telescope one month ago.

It is a 155 EDFS refractor with a 600E GTO mount.



For the moment I am fighting with the problem of the safe zone.

I understand it is the angle between the optical axis and the vertical

under which the OTA could hit the tripod (or the pier in my case).

In other respects the overturn zone is comprised between the hour angles

of 10:40 (OTA towards West) and 22:40 or - 1:20 (OTA towards East).

As a result there is a very large safe zone for the hour angles

close to -1:20.I give more details hereafter.

Did you make the same observations?

(I apologize if the subject has already been discussed in your list).

Is there anybody at ASTROPHYSICS I could write to?

Which e-mail?



Thank you for advising me.

Regards

Philippe Bodart.



1.Overturn zone.



The overturn zone is comprised between the hour angles of 10:40

(OTA towards West) and 22:40 or - 1:20 (OTA towards East).

This zone is independant of the set up of the safe zone (see further on).

It operates if you ask for a "go to".On the other hand with the keypad

buttons you can reach any point geometrically accessible.



It is tricky as it is possible to leave the hour movement working for a

while

without any trouble after having reached the aimed object.

Unfortunately it increases the size of the safe zone when the OTA

is close to the vertical towards East (see further on).

It is a pity that this zone cannot be set up.



2.Safe zone.



It is the angle between the optical axis and the vertical under

which the OTA could hit the tripod (or the pier in my case).

The most dangerous zone is obviously related to an hour angle of -1:20

(see above).I decided to recut the collar of my pier but you will see

that it remains relatively annoying with a camera.

With HA = -1:20 I rotated the OTA until it hit the pier and I noted

the related value of the declination.The safe angle is the complement

to 90. of the altitude (that can be calculated as a function of the hour

angle,

of the declination and of the latitude of the site with the ad'hoc trigo

formula).The safe angle is not the same according to the way you are

going towards the pier (N side or S side).

My results are the following:

-with an eyepiece 16.(N side) and 18. (S side).

-with the camera "horizontal" 23.(N side) and 16.(S side).

-with the camera "vertical" 16. (N side) and 16. (S side).

You see that with the maximum allowed set up of 20. it remains

a risk with the camera "horizontal" (in fact parallel to the RA axis,

that allows you to have the N upside on the photos).

The set up of the safe zone prevents the OTA from tilting less than the

requested value to the vertical , even if it is not dangerous.

It is the case for hour angles bigger than 0:00 for example (the system

ignores the azimuth).

If you ask for a "go to" to a position comprised in the safe zone there

is no movement and the keyboard displays the following message:

"Outside safe zone.Slewing canceled".

On the other hand with the keypad buttons you can reach any point

geometrically accessible.



Once again it is a pity you cannot set up the overturn zone as the choice

made by the manufacturer spoils the safe zone.

On the other hand it is a pity that the system ignores the azimuth when

deciding if the movement is dangerous or not.

It took me a long time to realize all that and it is also a pity that

the handbook is not more explicit.



----------------------------

#560 Apr 27, 2000

For those using TheSky, by Software Bisque to control your telescope, you

can literally map out your own unique horizon lines and keep the scope

within those set boundaries... very easy to do, too.



Larry Denmark



E-mail . . . kldenmark@...

Web site . . home.att.net/~kldenmark/

----- Original Message -----

From: "Marj" marj@...>

To: ap-gto@...>

Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 12:10 PM

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Safe zone of the 600E GTO mount.





> Dear Mr. Bodart,

> Welcome to the list. At the present time, the safe zone setting is a

simple

> circle around the zenith that the user can set on the hand controller.

> Perhaps more complex safe zone controls can be incorporated into

DigitalSky

> Voice in the future. Charles, are you listening?

> Marjorie Christen

> Astro-Physics







----------------------------

#610 May 15, 2000

Just out of curiousity I'm wondering how long others have managed a

typical unguided CCD exposure. I've managed 4 minutes once at F/5.0

but most of the time despite good "drift aligning" I can only get 2

minutes most nights. 90 seconds being the norm. Am I expecting too

much for a portable tripod setup which I take down each night?

The old AP 400 QMD was just as accurate when trying to do CCD work. I

was hoping the 600E would be an improvment.



Training the PEC dosen't seem to help.



I'm using an old C8 and was wondering if "mirror shift" may be the

main culprit.



Comments anyone?



----------------------------

#611 May 15, 2000

At that focal length I get 2 min. unguided about 50% of the time with the

AP600, so your performance sounds consistent with my experience.



However, if I use the autoguider to train the PEC, I can get better.



Bob Kuberek





Chris Spratt wrote:

> Just out of curiousity I'm wondering how long others have managed a

> typical unguided CCD exposure. I've managed 4 minutes once at F/5.0

> but most of the time despite good "drift aligning" I can only get 2

> minutes most nights. 90 seconds being the norm. Am I expecting too



----------------------------

#917 Jul 11, 2000

Recent threads about alignment, guiding and tracking problems,

centered on issues of orthogonality, led me to post the following demo

on my home page. It's a mini asteroid-movie (a bit spoiled by cloud

cover that rolled in towards the end).



You will note that the guiding itself is superb. Those images were

*not* aligned (or registered, as some programs refer to it). I took

one, two-minute exposure every ten minutes for two hours. The 'movie'

consists of only one frame every 20 minutes (to save download time.)

I did use dark frame subtraction, but again, I did not align the

images used for the 'movie.' The guiding process was automatic with

my St-8e, but would never have worked as well as it did had it not

been for the excellent quality built into my 600E GTO mount.



Larry



E-mail . . . kldenmark@...

Web site . . home.att.net/~kldenmark/



----------------------------

#1171 Jul 22, 2000

Previous messages posted to this group have been about the carrying

capacity of the AP400 GOTO mounts - whether or not a 10" Meade OTA

and similar OTAs would be too much for this mount.



I have the AP600E Goto and I know that the 11" OTA Celestron would be

overweight for this mount for phtographic or CCD work (Roland told me

that).



Ron W. indicated that the 9.25" OTA was just about the limit for his

AP600E (last year's model) and he had to get the motors reset by

Roland's people. (Sort of the gist of the problem anyway).



So my question is the 9.25" still to large for the AP600E Goto as it

would be placing too much of a torque load on the mount when a CCD

etc

are added?



Right now my 600E carries my C8 OTA, Pixcel 237 CCD, a bar with rings

to hold my Orion 80mm short focal length refractor and a 12"

long sonotube extension on the OTA for a light-shield. In the fall

the

CCD will be an SBIG 7E which is a bit heavier than the Pixcel 237.



The 600E sits on the AP wooden tripod and I can manage to get about a

two minute unguided exposure. I know I have an orthonogality problem

but have yet to solve that problem entirely. With luck the 7E will

help with guiding.



Will the 9.25" work this way as a replacment for the 8"?



----------------------------

#1191 Jul 24, 2000

Previous messages posted to this group have been about the carrying

capacity of the AP400 GOTO mounts - whether or not a 10" Meade OTA

and similar OTAs would be too much for this mount.



I have the AP600E Goto and I know that the 11" OTA Celestron would be

overweight for this mount for phtographic or CCD work (Roland told me

that).



Ron W. indicated that the 9.25" OTA was just about the limit for his

AP600E (last year's model) and he had to get the motors reset by

Roland's people. (Sort of the gist of the problem anyway).



So my question is the 9.25" still to large for the AP600E Goto as it

would be placing too much of a torque load on the mount when a CCD

etc are added?



Right now my 600E carries my C8 OTA, Pixcel 237 CCD, a bar with rings

to hold my Orion 80mm short focal length refractor and a 12"

long sonotube extension on the OTA for a light-shield. In the fall

the CCD will be an SBIG 7E which is a bit heavier than the Pixcel 237.



The 600E sits on the AP wooden tripod and I can manage to get about a

two minute unguided exposure. I know I have an orthonogality problem

but have yet to solve that problem entirely. With luck the 7E will

help with guiding.



Will the 9.25" work this way as a replacment for the 8"?



----------------------------

#1350 Sep 8, 2000

When I adjust my DEC backlash using the controller, even the setting of

9 is insufficient to compensate for it. (I used a speed of 0.5X during

the adjustment). It used to be that a setting of about 4 was optimum.



Does this mean that I should mechanically adjust the spacing of the DEC

gears, and if so, how should I do that?



I would appreciate anyone's ideas on this.



Nick Dunckel

Los Altos, CA







----------------------------

#1351 Sep 8, 2000

Call Wally at Astro-Physics, he walked me through the gear adjustment

process. Took about 15 minutes first time. I can now do in 5 minutes.

Requires a bladed screwdriver, a block of wood and a small mallet..Terry

Johnson



----- Original Message -----

From: "Nicholas Dunckel" ndunckel@...>

To: "AP-GOTO group" ap-gto@egroups.com>

Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 11:18 AM

Subject: [ap-gto] Excessive DEC backlash on AP600E GTO





> When I adjust my DEC backlash using the controller, even the setting of

> 9 is insufficient to compensate for it. (I used a speed of 0.5X during

> the adjustment). It used to be that a setting of about 4 was optimum.

>

> Does this mean that I should mechanically adjust the spacing of the DEC

> gears, and if so, how should I do that?

>

> I would appreciate anyone's ideas on this.

>

> Nick Dunckel

> Los Altos, CA

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#1352 Sep 8, 2000

In a message dated 9/8/00 1:53:23 PM Central Daylight Time,

ndunckel@... writes:



<

Does this mean that I should mechanically adjust the spacing of the DEC

gears, and if so, how should I do that? >>



You need to put them into mesh. They are backed off slightly. Call AP and ask

to talk to Wally. He can walk you through the adjustment. It really is easy,

once you do it. Normally, dec backlash is not a concern. Are you trying to

use a CCD camera and calibrate it at .25x? If so, this is not going to work.

Calibration should be done at 1x. You can then switch to a lower guide speed

for guiding the camera.



Roland Christen



----------------------------

#1558 Nov 4, 2000

Will the 10" F/9 (32 lbs) Ritchey-Chretian OTA from RC Optics be too

much for the AP600E Goto?



What is the largest OTA the AP600E Goto can handle (CCD and

photographic work)?



----------------------------

#1559 Nov 4, 2000

Will the 10" F/9 (32 lbs) Ritchey-Chretian OTA from RC Optics be too

> much for the AP600E Goto?



IMHO, that would not be a workable combination. I have an AP 600E GTO and I use

my 130 mm f/6 with an JMI NGF-S, and a ST-8e and CFW-8 and that is about all the

load (about 24 lbs.) that I would put on the AP 600E GTO... but that is for

astro-imaging.



The 10" RC from RCOS weighs 32 lbs. "naked." Add a few lbs. for mounting

plates, oculars, etc, and your up over 35 lbs. That's a lot of weight for the

600E GTO. Forget astro-imaging with that. Will it work for visual? I'm not

sure, but why would one want a telescope that is optimized for imaging as a

visual-only instrument?

> What is the largest OTA the AP600E Goto can handle (CCD and

> photographic work)?



You might get away with a six inch refractor if it wasn't too heavy (that leaves

out some of the TAK models, for sure). With the 155 mm Starfire, it might work,

but that would be pushing it a bit. An 8" SCT or a 5" refractor would be a

better match for the 600E GTO. Of the two, the refractor is much easier to use

for astro-imaging... less headaches too... and more fun.



Larry

--



kldenmark@...

home.att.net/~kldenmark/towardinfinity



----------------------------

#1560 Nov 5, 2000

I currently have 32 pound OTA plus finder, 2" diagonal, TV grenade eyepieces

on my AP 600EGTO and the mount does not have any trouble.



Peter in Manhattan



----------------------------

#1569 Nov 6, 2000

In a message dated 11/4/00 9:27:58 PM Central Standard Time,

cspratt@... writes:



< Will the 10" F/9 (32 lbs) Ritchey-Chretian OTA from RC Optics be too

much for the AP600E Goto?>>



Too big, in my opinion for CCD, OK for visual.

>> What is the largest OTA the AP600E Goto can handle (CCD and

photographic work)?>>



9.25" Celestron.



Roland Christen

>>



----------------------------

#1646 Dec 3, 2000

Hello all,



My venerable 600E mount, which has never given me any difficulty in 9

months, has chosen this evening to sieze up when I select "Location"

as part of the Startup procedure. This phenomena is documented in the

manual as being due to 1 of three things:



1. No connection to motors at all from logic controller

2. Worm gear too tight

3. Bad logic in eprom?



The circumstances are:



1. Observatory mounted and enclosed 600E, has not been moved apart

from normal ops in 9 months. All circuitry is surge protected and

filtered. Mount has always performed admirably.



2. Second night of the year (or so) in which temps are below 30

degrees F. (My personal suspect for expansion-contraction?!?)



3. Motor light on servo box shows red (normal, not yellow).



4. I have repeatedly cycled power and re-seated all electrical

connections. Controller acts as expected.



I will of course contact Christine et al, but I hoped someone else

had seen this so that I might operate while Roland & Marj take much

deserved time off.



Thanks for any help,



John



----------------------------

#1649 Dec 4, 2000

In a message dated 12/3/00 7:01:27 PM Central Standard Time,

jdouglas@... writes:



< This phenomena is documented in the

manual as being due to 1 of three things:



1. No connection to motors at all from logic controller

2. Worm gear too tight >>



Look in the RA window where the little gears show. Check to see if the gears

are turning slowly at the siderial rate. If they are not, it could be that

your RA motor has stalled for some reason. If that is the case, the hand

controller will never initialize. If the motor has stalled, we need to have

the mount back for repairs.



Roland Christen







----------------------------

#1650 Dec 5, 2000

Thanks to Roland, Marj, and Marty at Company 7 for the help with the

600E issue I have. Roland & Marj very kindly walked me through the

primary checks to determine that it needed to be shipped back, and

Marty identified which component was at fault by swapping pieces with

the 600E on the floor at C7. (It appear to be an issue with the servo

interface box). Marty even shipped it back for me, and loaned me his

in the interim. Between AP and C7, I will never go wanting for expert

help.



Thanks,



John



----------------------------

#1653 Dec 5, 2000

----- Original Message -----

From: "John Douglas" jdouglas@...>

snip>

> in the interim. Between AP and C7, I will never go wanting for expert

> help.

>

> Thanks,

>

> John



The support at Astro-Physics is first rate. Now I have to get my 400GTO hand

controller off to AP...



Hey Charles, if you still monitor this group, now I'll have to use DSV to

run the mount! :^D Maybe I'll never go back to the hand controller...



Clear skies,

Jeff



----------------------------

#2069 Mar 10, 2001

Both the dec. and RA axis are so stiff when released that it's hard to

tell if they are properly balanced. Any suggestions to correct this?



----------------------------

#2071 Mar 10, 2001

In a message dated 3/10/2001 9:39:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,

joemorris@... writes:



> Both the dec. and RA axis are so stiff when released that it's hard to

> tell if they are properly balanced. Any suggestions to correct this?

>

>

>

>

Stiff lubricant on the gears perhaps.



Roland Christen







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#2120 Mar 17, 2001

Re:AP600e



My AP600e handles my CG9.25 inch SCT with SBIG ST-8e CCD and CFW-8 just

fine.



Rich Jacobs, M.D.

www.azastronomy.com



I hope the AP600E GOTO can handle my new 9.25" OTA SCT and a CCD (ST-

7E) as others have indicated it should. I will be really ticked if

the mount can't handle this load!



----------------------------

#2935 Jul 4, 2001

My AP600 GOTO has, over time, developed a slight excess backlash in

RA. I've tried all settings (0-9)at 12x but nothing really works to

remove it all.



Is there an "easy" check/adjustment? (I'm a mechanical "klutz").



I also live on west coast with different time zone from AP and I also

work week days. So if I have to call with mount in front of me I'll

have to wait until the next weekday off (month or so). So I was

thinking that there may be a possiblity of some illustrated

instructions being posted on the web site to help with this situation.



----------------------------

#2947 Jul 4, 2001

cspratt



Sounds like the worm gear might be loose on its shaft -- but better to wait

for Roland's diagnosis and recommendation for treatment.



Joe *Doc* Ewing

Conroe, Texas



----------------------------

#2950 Jul 5, 2001

In a message dated 7/4/2001 1:33:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

cspratt@... writes:



> My AP600 GOTO has, over time, developed a slight excess backlash in

> RA. I've tried all settings (0-9)at 12x but nothing really works to

> remove it all.

>

>



Mechanical backlash can be removed by putting the worm into full mesh with

the worm gear. This is done by loosening the 2 Allen heas screws that hold

the worm assembly on the mount, and gently pushing the assembly into mesh

with light finger pressure, and then retightening the 2 Allen head screws. If

you call our number early in the morning before you go to work, and ask for

Wally, he will be able to walk you thru the adjustment. It is not that hard

to do.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#2951 Jul 5, 2001

In a message dated 7/4/2001 8:54:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

JosephGEwing@... writes:



> Sounds like the worm gear might be loose on its shaft



The worm gear does not ride on a shaft. It is integral with the shaft, in

other words, worm and shaft are one piece.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#2952 Jul 5, 2001

Are these allen headed screws metric? If so size?

> Mechanical backlash can be removed by putting the worm into full

mesh with > the worm gear. This is done by loosening the 2 Allen heas screws

that hold > the worm assembly on the mount, and gently pushing the assembly

into mesh > with light finger pressure, and then retightening the 2 Allen head

screws. If > you call our number early in the morning before you go to work, and

ask for > Wally, he will be able to walk you thru the adjustment. It is not

that hard > to do.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#2955 Jul 5, 2001

In a message dated 7/5/2001 1:16:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

cspratt@... writes:



> Are these allen headed screws metric? If so size?

>

>



They are 1/4-20, but a metric will fit also. Can you see them on your mount?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#2959 Jul 5, 2001

Only ones I can see are either side of the declination lock knob. Look

to be right size. I assume when these are removed the top lifts off.

I haven't done this though as I've no idea what will drop out etc:!

I still think some illustrations on web page (Technical area) may

help.



Chris. Spratt

--- In ap-gto@y..., chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 7/5/2001 1:16:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

> cspratt@i... writes:

>

>

> > Are these allen headed screws metric? If so size?

> >

> >

>

> They are 1/4-20, but a metric will fit also. Can you see them on

your mount?

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3056 Jul 22, 2001

Help!



Here is what I have:



I'm using a 1.5 year old AP600E GTO that has been babied! Used once

a month and carefully packed and assembled whenever used. The mount

is cherry!



My scope is a Tak FS-128 (5" refactor). My guide scope is the STV

with the eFinder lens assembly.



For CCD I'm using an ST-7E and recently I purchased an Optec TCF-S

serial controlled focuser.



I have a custom dovetail assembly that I figure weights about 8

pounds. I'll weight that shortly.



Anyway when I assemble the mount, dovetail, rings, Tak FS-128, STV,

eFinder, TCF-S, and ST-7 it is a pretty loaded configuration. I'm

not sure of the total weight at this point but it is up there.

However I don't think it exceeds the carrying capacity of the 600.



Anyway here is the problem. Because of the 5" aperature and the fact

that my ST-7 is the non-ABG type I must take at least a 3 minute

image in order to get a bare minimum signal to noise to over come the

grainy look that happens when the signal to noise ratio falls in the

ST series cameras.



So I use the STV to guide so I can take 5 and 10 minute exposures.

But there in lies the problem. I cannot in this configuration get

the STV/AP600 to guide well.



Everything calibrates just fine. But when I start tracking the

errors are all over the map. I have played with the aggressiveness

controls, changed weighting, put things in balance, and taken them

out of balance and I just can't get good tracking. How do I know you

say?



Well I take a 3 minute exposure on the ST-7 and I don't get nice

round stars!!!



So for the folks at AP...



With all this stuff hanging off the back of my TAK FS-128 to get dec

balance I have to push the OTA almost full forward in the tube

rings. This leaves a lot of it sticking out forward. But it is in

perfect balance. Could this be an inertia problem? IE with all this

weight and length could the dec axis be having trouble reacting quick

enough?



I have been trying different guide rates on the STV. Last night I

played with 2 seconds. At first the dec guiding was all over the

place. I then turned the STV agressiveness on dec up all the way.

This quieted dec down but RA was still all over the map. Nothing I

did would quiet it down.



The next experiement I did seemed to eliminate weight as the cause.

I removed everything from the scope except the scope, STV, and a

visual eyepiece. I rebalanced everything very very carefully. Again

I could not get what I considered to be good tracking. IE the

numbers out of the STV were about the same as before. But without

the ST-& in place I could not check star roundness.



So any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll check the weight of

my dove tail plate but I really don't expect that is the issue.



Thanks for any thoughts in advance!



Mark



----------------------------

#3057 Jul 23, 2001

How much DEC backlash do you have? You can test this by:



1) Set the DEC backlash compensation to zero (via setup)

2) Center a star with the stv and set to zoom mode so that

you can easily see any movement.

4) Set the Speed to 1x

5) Press the DEC Up key and wait until you see the star

start to move. This step makes sure that the mount is

in place for the next step.

6) Now press the DEC Down key and time how long it

takes for the star to move. This is the DEC backlash time.



If you have more than about 5 seconds, you will probably want

to call Wally at AP about meshing the gears.



Are you using DEC backlash during tracking?





To: .ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

From: .markh@...

Date sent: .Mon, 23 Jul 2001 04:44:45 -0000

Send reply to: .ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: .[ap-gto] Guiding problems on my AP600E GTO...

> Help!

>

> Here is what I have:

>

> I'm using a 1.5 year old AP600E GTO that has been babied! Used once

> a month and carefully packed and assembled whenever used. The mount

> is cherry!

>

> My scope is a Tak FS-128 (5" refactor). My guide scope is the STV

> with the eFinder lens assembly.

>

> For CCD I'm using an ST-7E and recently I purchased an Optec TCF-S

> serial controlled focuser.

>

> I have a custom dovetail assembly that I figure weights about 8

> pounds. I'll weight that shortly.

>

> Anyway when I assemble the mount, dovetail, rings, Tak FS-128, STV,

> eFinder, TCF-S, and ST-7 it is a pretty loaded configuration. I'm

> not sure of the total weight at this point but it is up there.

> However I don't think it exceeds the carrying capacity of the 600.

>

> Anyway here is the problem. Because of the 5" aperature and the fact

> that my ST-7 is the non-ABG type I must take at least a 3 minute

> image in order to get a bare minimum signal to noise to over come the

> grainy look that happens when the signal to noise ratio falls in the

> ST series cameras.

>

> So I use the STV to guide so I can take 5 and 10 minute exposures.

> But there in lies the problem. I cannot in this configuration get

> the STV/AP600 to guide well.

>

> Everything calibrates just fine. But when I start tracking the

> errors are all over the map. I have played with the aggressiveness

> controls, changed weighting, put things in balance, and taken them

> out of balance and I just can't get good tracking. How do I know you

> say?

>

> Well I take a 3 minute exposure on the ST-7 and I don't get nice

> round stars!!!

>

> So for the folks at AP...

>

> With all this stuff hanging off the back of my TAK FS-128 to get dec

> balance I have to push the OTA almost full forward in the tube

> rings. This leaves a lot of it sticking out forward. But it is in

> perfect balance. Could this be an inertia problem? IE with all this

> weight and length could the dec axis be having trouble reacting quick

> enough?

>

> I have been trying different guide rates on the STV. Last night I

> played with 2 seconds. At first the dec guiding was all over the

> place. I then turned the STV agressiveness on dec up all the way.

> This quieted dec down but RA was still all over the map. Nothing I

> did would quiet it down.

>

> The next experiement I did seemed to eliminate weight as the cause.

> I removed everything from the scope except the scope, STV, and a

> visual eyepiece. I rebalanced everything very very carefully. Again

> I could not get what I considered to be good tracking. IE the

> numbers out of the STV were about the same as before. But without

> the ST-& in place I could not check star roundness.

>

> So any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll check the weight of

> my dove tail plate but I really don't expect that is the issue.

>

> Thanks for any thoughts in advance!

>

> Mark

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







Mike Cook, AF9Y

www.webcom.com/af9y

mwcook@...







----------------------------

#3061 Jul 23, 2001

Mike,



I spent so much time fiddling with my tracking that I did not get a

chance to test my backlash time for you like I promised.



I'll try your suggestion next time I'm out. I think I currently have

my backlash set it 4.



I'll let you know what I find out!



Mark



BTW my call is WS7M.



M

--- In ap-gto@y..., "Mike Cook, AF9Y" mwcook@c...> wrote:

> How much DEC backlash do you have? You can test this by:

>

> 1) Set the DEC backlash compensation to zero (via setup)

> 2) Center a star with the stv and set to zoom mode so that

> you can easily see any movement.

> 4) Set the Speed to 1x

> 5) Press the DEC Up key and wait until you see the star

> start to move. This step makes sure that the mount is

> in place for the next step.

> 6) Now press the DEC Down key and time how long it

> takes for the star to move. This is the DEC backlash time.

>

> If you have more than about 5 seconds, you will probably want

> to call Wally at AP about meshing the gears.

>

> Are you using DEC backlash during tracking?

>

>

> To: .ap-gto@y...

> From: .markh@s...

> Date sent: .Mon, 23 Jul 2001 04:44:45 -0000

> Send reply to: .ap-gto@y...

> Subject: .[ap-gto] Guiding problems on my AP600E GTO...

>

> > Help!

> >

> > Here is what I have:

> >

> > I'm using a 1.5 year old AP600E GTO that has been babied! Used

once

> > a month and carefully packed and assembled whenever used. The

mount

> > is cherry!

> >

> > My scope is a Tak FS-128 (5" refactor). My guide scope is the

STV

> > with the eFinder lens assembly.

> >

> > For CCD I'm using an ST-7E and recently I purchased an Optec TCF-

S

> > serial controlled focuser.

> >

> > I have a custom dovetail assembly that I figure weights about 8

> > pounds. I'll weight that shortly.

> >

> > Anyway when I assemble the mount, dovetail, rings, Tak FS-128,

STV,

> > eFinder, TCF-S, and ST-7 it is a pretty loaded configuration.

I'm

> > not sure of the total weight at this point but it is up there.

> > However I don't think it exceeds the carrying capacity of the 600.

> >

> > Anyway here is the problem. Because of the 5" aperature and the

fact

> > that my ST-7 is the non-ABG type I must take at least a 3 minute

> > image in order to get a bare minimum signal to noise to over come

the

> > grainy look that happens when the signal to noise ratio falls in

the

> > ST series cameras.

> >

> > So I use the STV to guide so I can take 5 and 10 minute

exposures.

> > But there in lies the problem. I cannot in this configuration

get

> > the STV/AP600 to guide well.

> >

> > Everything calibrates just fine. But when I start tracking the

> > errors are all over the map. I have played with the

aggressiveness

> > controls, changed weighting, put things in balance, and taken

them

> > out of balance and I just can't get good tracking. How do I know

you

> > say?

> >

> > Well I take a 3 minute exposure on the ST-7 and I don't get nice

> > round stars!!!

> >

> > So for the folks at AP...

> >

> > With all this stuff hanging off the back of my TAK FS-128 to get

dec

> > balance I have to push the OTA almost full forward in the tube

> > rings. This leaves a lot of it sticking out forward. But it is

in

> > perfect balance. Could this be an inertia problem? IE with all

this

> > weight and length could the dec axis be having trouble reacting

quick

> > enough?

> >

> > I have been trying different guide rates on the STV. Last night

I

> > played with 2 seconds. At first the dec guiding was all over the

> > place. I then turned the STV agressiveness on dec up all the

way.

> > This quieted dec down but RA was still all over the map. Nothing

I

> > did would quiet it down.

> >

> > The next experiement I did seemed to eliminate weight as the

cause.

> > I removed everything from the scope except the scope, STV, and a

> > visual eyepiece. I rebalanced everything very very carefully.

Again

> > I could not get what I considered to be good tracking. IE the

> > numbers out of the STV were about the same as before. But

without

> > the ST-& in place I could not check star roundness.

> >

> > So any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll check the weight

of

> > my dove tail plate but I really don't expect that is the issue.

> >

> > Thanks for any thoughts in advance!

> >

> > Mark

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

> >

>

>

>

> Mike Cook, AF9Y

> www.webcom.com/af9y

> mwcook@c...







----------------------------

#3066 Jul 25, 2001

> Everything calibrates just fine. But when I start tracking the

> > > errors are all over the map. I have played with the

> aggressiveness

> > > controls, changed weighting, put things in balance, and taken

> them

> > > out of balance and I just can't get good tracking.



I have no experience with the STV as a tracker, but I have heard that

others are having problems also with all different mounts. It might

be a good idea to check out the SBIG user's group to see what others

have found. Here's what you need to do first of all to make sure your

system is sound. Get yourself a crosshair eyepiece and monitor the

motion of a guide star on the crosshairs with no inputs to the servo

controller, other than your keypad. Do you see the star dancing all

over the place? If so, you might have an atmospheric seeing problem.

If not, do you see any rapid drift in declination that needs to be

guided out? If so, then your polar alignment is off, most probably

the azimuth axis. Remember, any drift in declination is NOT the fault

of the mount, since that axis is not driven.



Then check drift in RA. This should be a slow back and forth movement

to describe a smooth sinusoid with a total time period of about 7

minutes for one full cycle. You can characterize your periodic error

by simply offsetting your azimuth a few degrees and taking a 7 to 8

minute unguided CCD exposure (or film if you have no CCD camera). The

resultant squiggle can then be analyzed to give you all kinds of

vital information that you will need to set up your guiding later on.

If you don't do these things (and many beginners fail to do them),

you will not have the info needed to do a first class imaging job.



When I set up my SBIG CCD capera for guiding, I calibrate (always at

1x speed) with the guiding chip on the side of the mount that I will

be imaging. If I then go to the opposite side of the sky, I have to

either re-calibrate, or go into the guiding parameters in CCDOPS and

swap motion. Otherwise, the system will go ape - i.e. all errors get

worse with time rather than better. I also use an aggressiveness of

7, which essentially means that the camera will correct any error

only 70% so as to avoid error overshoot and oscillations back and

forth. I normally guide at 1x, or .5x with my 146 inch focal length

scope. In your case, you have a much shorter focal length, so there

is no reason that the star should be hunting all over the place,

unless the sky is very unsteady. Then you should not even try to

chase the guide star, rather turn the agressiveness down even

further. If your Dec axis is jumping all over the place, there is

definitely something wrong with your guiding parameters, because

normally the guide star motion in Dec is close to zero in a well

polar aligned mount. There is no reason the star should be moving at

all.



Finally, there is another test you can do with SBIG cameras. You can

go into their Track & Accumulate mode, set it for 20 - 30 or so

exposures at 10 - 15 seconds each, and then watch the little chart on

the page. It will plot for you the actual motion of your chosen guide

star without the mount getting any external commands. This is the

purest way to see whether your mount is tracking well all by itself.

You will see a gradual motion in the Dec axis that reflects quite

accurately how well you are polar aligned. You will also see the

periodic error in your RA axis presented as well as any constant

drift due to polar misalignment. In fact, I used this chart recently

to super tune my observatory 1200 mount. I was able to get the dec

axis flat for 5 minutes with not 1 pixel of motion by adjusting my

polar alignment.



If you know what your maximum periodic error and its shape is, then

you can plan your maximum guider exposure time. For instance, my 1200

mount with its well worn-in RA worm has a 5 arc sec P-P error

maximum. I could reduce this by training the PEM, but this is not

really necessary even with my 146 inch focal length. The 5 second

error occurs twice over a 6.4 minute time period (picture a sine wave

from bottom to top back down to bottom). The error has two points at

top and bottom where the star does not appear to move at all for a

long time, and then a connecting period between the upper and lower

peaks when the star is moving at the maximum rate. This time is

approximately 3.2 minutes (194 seconds) where the star is moving 5

arc seconds total in RA. So the rate is approximately 38 seconds of

time per arc second of movement in RA. If I want to limit my maximum

error to 0.5 arc seconds, then I can take up to 14 second exposures

with my guider (minus the download time etc) and still have perfectly

round stars. I can also take 14 second Track & Accumulate images all

night long and have a very nice result.



Some things that can screw up your guiding that you should watch out

for:

1. wires dangling off the back of CCD cameras that can subtly "pull"

the camera position in the focuser as the mount slowly tracks across

the sky. Place the wires along the tube assembly and tie securely to

the mounting rings before dropping them to the ground below.

2. the fan on the ST7/8/10 adds a lot of vibration to the system. You

cannot disconnect it, but what i have done is to isolate it

completely from the camera body by glueing it to two layers of carpet

backing with a hole cut into the backing to allow airflow. Carpet

backing can be purchased in large sheets at KMart for a song. It is

gummy soft rubber, about 1/8 inch thick and is full of holes. The

mounting screws cannot be used, so make sure the glue holds well. I

use Pliobond. Without doing this, my stars are not round, but measure

sometimes 1x3 arc sec, depending on the orientation of the mount.

Worst orientation is looking due south.

3. People walking near the scope will shift the ground enough to

cause 1 - 4 arc second jumps in image position on the CCD chip.

4. Not fully cooled down scope will cause all kinds of tube currents

which can drive a guider nuts.

5. Put the Dec backlash setting to zero. There is no need for a

guider to get instant reversals. You cannot follow random motions of

guide stars, only the slow steady drift caused by slight polar

misalignment and the natural periodic error of the worm.

6. DO NOT have "The Sky" planetarium program up and linked to your

mount. This program will interfere with your tracking in a big way. I

found out the hard way after wasting many hours imaging, only to have

erratic guide star motion during every exposure. The Sky, when linked

to the mount can (and will) send random motion commands via the Com

port, and this is NOT what you want during your exposure.



There are others which I can't think of right now. I hope I have

given you some info. Good luck. It can be done. I know because a

complete Doofus like myself has figured it out (just took me a month

of sundays).



Roland Christen







----------------------------

#3067 Jul 25, 2001

6. DO NOT have "The Sky" planetarium program up and linked to your

> mount. This program will interfere with your tracking in a big way. I

> found out the hard way after wasting many hours imaging, only to have

> erratic guide star motion during every exposure. The Sky, when linked

> to the mount can (and will) send random motion commands via the Com

> port, and this is NOT what you want during your exposure.



That's an interesting one. So I wonder what people who must have

"The Sky" up and running at all times do? Take for example, people

like myself who have a Paramount GT-1100S. All the brains is in

"The Sky." The Paramount won't even operate without "The Sky" up

and running. Fortunately, I haven't experienced "The Sky" sending

random motion commands to the mount. Are you honestly certain about

this one?



- Dan



----------------------------

#3069 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/25/2001 5:03:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

danco@... writes:



> The Paramount won't even operate without "The Sky" up

> and running. Fortunately, I haven't experienced "The Sky" sending

> random motion commands to the mount. Are you honestly certain about

> this one?

>

>



You can have "The Sky" up, but don't link it to the mount. I am absolutely

certain that it will send random move commands to the mount. It happens

during the long download times of the ST10E when the computer is totally tied

up with this function. meanwhile, underneath, "The Sky" is trying to get and

process information from the mount so it can continually update the cursor.

My laptop is an IBM 600mhz Thinkpad. During long tracking sessions, The Sky

will send to the mount servo random move commands that appear to be on the

order of a few arc minutes. As a result, I will have a half dozen Ring

Nebulas in the image in a 5 minute exposure. Also, during Track & Accumulate,

The Sky will interfere with CCDOPS and prematurely shut down the accumulate

sequence. I have had this happen repeatedly where I programmed in 10

exposures of 30 seconds duration, and gotten only 3. In this case, "The Sky"

is not interfering with the mount, but directly with another program on the

same computer. I have asked Michael Barber about this, and he did indicate

that others have experienced this also, but they have not been able to repeat

the problem themselves. In any case, it is a problem with "The Sky", not

CCDOPS.



I have not tried to run Maxim DL plus The Sky, but Wally Piorkowski has done

so with his ST8, and has seen erratic tracking where one of the axes will

continually bounce back and forth a few arc seconds when both programs are

up. When he disconnected The Sky, the problem seemed to go away. I believe

Software Bisque is aware of these problems, but it may be computer related

i.e. some computers cannot handle several tasks as easily as another brand of

computer can. In my case, I take no chances and just terminate the link after

I find the object I want to image. The Sky is still up there to see the star

chart, but the cursor is gone.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3070 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/26/2001 7:09:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

chris1011@... writes:



> You can have "The Sky" up, but don't link it to the mount. I am absolutely

> certain that it will send random move commands to the mount



I should qualify that. It seems to send random motions to our mount via the

com port. I don't know how "The Sky" is integrated with the Paramount, but it

would seem that they have a different way to couple the program to the mount.

I have not fully investigated just waht signals are being sent to our mount

via the serial port, and when I get some time, I will install either another

computer to monitor the signals going back and forth, or use Portmon to

analyze what's happening. Our mount has no choice but to move if directed to

do so by an outside signal. In the case of imaging with guider attached, the

mount is already gettign signals thru the RG11 port to move in both axes as

commanded by the CCD guider, and as such really does not need any commands

for motion to come barrelling down the serial port also.



Again, I don't know what is happening inside my computer, but when I

disconnect The Sky from the mount either by terminating the link or pulling

the serial cable out, the system guides flawlessly all night long. As soon as

I link up The Sky, i can guide for perhaps 1 to 2 minutes before the mount

suddenly gets a small move command and the exposure is ruined.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3071 Jul 26, 2001

Roland



What did you use to see the commands that were actually being sent to the mount?

Is it some kind of port monitor?



This would explain some tracking issues I've been seeing as well. After drift

aligning for 15 minutes with no movement, I'd get a "double" image in a 30 sec

exposure but not in an exposure less that 20 sec.

I have two laptops running. One runs "The Sky" and the other is used for image

aquisition. The Sky is running and linked throughout all of my exposures. I

would only see this double effect when controlling the camera through Maxim. If

I use the Starlight software, the problem goes away but I still can't get more

than a 90 sec image. Even then I end up throwing away more than half the

exposures due to mount movement. Wierd.



It would be very helpfull to see what commands if any are actually being sent to

the mount during exposures. It would also be very helpful to see these commands

while tuning the Star2000 guiding software.



Regards

Mike Garrett



btw: The keypad worked flawlessly all weekend after getting it back from AP.







chris1011@... wrote:

> I am absolutely certain that it will send random move commands to the mount.

>

>







----------------------------

#3072 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/26/2001 7:48:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

mikejima@... writes:



> . If

> I use the Starlight software, the problem goes away but I still can't get

> more

> than a 90 sec image. Even then I end up throwing away more than half the

> exposures due to mount movement. Wierd.





Are you tracking during this time or is the mount running unguided?

>

> It would be very helpfull to see what commands if any are actually being

> sent to

> the mount during exposures. It would also be very helpful to see these

> commands

> while tuning the Star2000 guiding software.

>

>

We intend to set up a second computer to monitor the data stream between the

mount and the first computer. We will be using Hyperterminal.



There are 2 ways that commands can be sent to the servodrive. One is

obviously thru the serial or com ports, and the second is thru the RG11

guider port. The guider port only can move the mount at the button rate. If

you set that rate to 1x, the mount will move 15 arc seconds for every second

of time that there is an input signal on the guider port. The serial or com

port allows all kinds of commands per the AP protocol. Even if the button

rate is set at only 1x, a command can be sent to the serial port to slew

somewhere else at 1200x siderial rate. So if a planetarium program sends a

command to move to some random spot in the sky, the mount will move there. It

has no way of knowing that you are taking an exposure and that it should

ignore other commands sent by other programs.



Roland Christen











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3073 Jul 26, 2001

chris1011@... wrote:

> In a message dated 7/26/2001 7:48:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

> mikejima@... writes:

>

> > . If I use the Starlight software, the problem goes away but I still can't

> get more than a 90 sec image. Even then I end up throwing away more than half

> the exposures due to mount movement. Wierd.

>

> Are you tracking during this time or is the mount running unguided?

>



Hmmmm. I thought that when the mount was turned on it "tracked" at the rate set

on the keypad. If you mean was I guiding (via the guider port) the answer is

no. The mount is on, polar aligned and tracking in RA. I did a drift alignment

and am able to keep a star in the box of a reticle eyepiece at 392x mag

indefinitely (at least for the 15+ minutes that I watched it with no movement)

>

> > It would be very helpfull to see what commands if any are actually being sent

> to the mount during exposures. It would also be very helpful to see these

> commands while tuning the Star2000 guiding software.

> >

> >

> We intend to set up a second computer to monitor the data stream between the

> mount and the first computer. We will be using Hyperterminal.



I can understand the second computer using Hyperterm to view the serial data

stream but how will you pass the actual commands on through to the mount. Some

kind of software controlled port redirection? This would require 2 serial ports

on the second computer. Or are you using some kind of splitter cable where you

can watch the data stream discreetly?

>

> There are 2 ways that commands can be sent to the servodrive. One is

> obviously thru the serial or com ports, and the second is thru the RG11

> guider port. The guider port only can move the mount at the button rate. If

> you set that rate to 1x, the mount will move 15 arc seconds for every second

> of time that there is an input signal on the guider port.



How would you view the comands sent from the RJ12 (6 wire) guider port to the

servodrive? If the servodrive accepts commands from either source it would

appear that the protocol is interchangeable but I didn't think the guider port is

using a serial protocol

> The serial or com port allows all kinds of commands per the AP protocol. Even

> if the button rate is set at only 1x, a command can be sent to the serial port

> to slew somewhere else at 1200x siderial rate. So if a planetarium program

> sends a command to move to some random spot in the sky, the mount will move

> there. It has no way of knowing that you are taking an exposure and that it

> should ignore other commands sent by other programs.



It would be really cool to have a diagnostic port on the GTO control box that

would allow you to watch all of the instructions the mount is receiving.



Mike Garrett



----------------------------

#3074 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/26/2001 10:53:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

mikejima@... writes:



> Hmmmm. I thought that when the mount was turned on it "tracked" at the rate

> set

> on the keypad. If you mean was I guiding (via the guider port) the answer

> is

> no. The mount is on, polar aligned and tracking in RA. I did a drift

> alignment

> and am able to keep a star in the box of a reticle eyepiece at 392x mag

> indefinitely (at least for the 15+ minutes that I watched it with no

> movement)



If the mount is tracking properly to the level you need (i.e. the star stays

in the box of a guiding eyepiece), but the stars are recording as streaks,

then what do you want the mount to further accomplish? You need to find out

why the camera is shifting with respect to the mount during an exposure.

Cables hanging down without support, scope optics slowly shifting, camera not

securely fastened to the scope, scope not securely fastened to the mount, etc

etc. There are dozens of reasons why stars are trailed, and it is up to each

individual to set up his system so that this does not occur. I bet if you

asked all the accomplished imagers what problems they ran into, each one

could tell you 5 things that caused them problems, and each person would have

5 different things to contribute to the problem list.



>

> I can understand the second computer using Hyperterm to view the serial data

> stream but how will you pass the actual commands on through to the mount.

> Some kind of software controlled port redirection? This would require 2

> serial ports on the second computer. Or are you using some kind of

> splitter cable where you can watch the data stream discreetly?





We'll just tap into the serial cable and attach it to a second computer. We

won't be able to send any commands from this computer, but that's not the

idea anyway. We want to find out what is being sent to the mount from the

first computer. We could use Portmon on the first computer, but that would

create another layer of complexity and we would not be able to watch the

guider function in CCDOPS.

>

> >

> > There are 2 ways that commands can be sent to the servodrive. One is

> > obviously thru the serial or com ports, and the second is thru the RG11

> > guider port. The guider port only can move the mount at the button rate.

> If

> > you set that rate to 1x, the mount will move 15 arc seconds for every

> second

> > of time that there is an input signal on the guider port.

>

> How would you view the comands sent from the RJ12 (6 wire) guider port to

> the

> servodrive? If the servodrive accepts commands from either source it would

> appear that the protocol is interchangeable but I didn't think the guider

> port is

> using a serial protocol



I think you are confused here. There are no commands as such being sent to

the RG11 guider inputs. This is an autoguide interface. It works just like in

the old days of the drive correctors before computerized goto commands. There

are 4 inputs plus ground. Each input is equivalent to one of the buttons,

E,W,N,S that you control from the keypad. These 4 inputs will cause the mount

to move in one of 4 directions when they are shorted or connected to ground.

It is exactly like pushing one of the direction buttons by hand, except in

the case of autoguiding, it is the CCD camera software that "pushes" the

button via the RG11 port. So if the CCD camera sees that the guide star has

moved 2 pixels north, it pushes the "south" button for the appropriate amount

of time to bring the star back to center. The software analyzes the position

of the guide star and calculates the time of the button pushes. Obviously,

CCD cameras don't have fingers and cannot reach over to your keypad to push

the button, so they have to do it by means of a wire connection. They close

the circuit to the common ground for a short period, say 0.15 seconds, to

move the guide star back by 2 pixels. Then it takes another exposure, finds

out it has moved a smidgen too far, and "pushes" the opposite button by

another small amount, say 0.03 seconds to move the guide star back to center.

This goes on all during the exposure. The rate at which correction is made

depends on the settings you make. You can set it to expose the guide chip for

2 seconds, 5 seconds, whatever. Then every 5 seconds it will make a

correction by pushing the appropriate button via the RG11 port. These signals

are not analyzable by any computer. They are electrical connections just like

when you hit a light switch. No data is involved, just electrical connections.

>

>

> It would be really cool to have a diagnostic port on the GTO control box

> that

> would allow you to watch all of the instructions the mount is receiving.





For what purpose? You are in charge of sending data to the mount, so all you

would be doing is to verify that you sent some instruction or other. You can

do that with a program called Portmon which allows you to see what your

computer port is sending and receiving.



Roland Christen







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#3075 Jul 26, 2001

chris1011@... wrote:

>

> If the mount is tracking properly to the level you need (i.e. the star stays

> in the box of a guiding eyepiece), but the stars are recording as streaks,

> then what do you want the mount to further accomplish?



I did not say that stars are recording as streaks. I said there are multiple

images similar to what you experienced. The mount appears to be tracking

extremely well as a result of my drift alignment, the cables are all well

supported and I can feel no movement in any of the components in the optical path.



The revelation is that "The Sky" is sending commands to the mount on it's own.

That would explain why I'm getting the multiple images. I'm interested in

watching the serial data stream in order to verify that these multiple images are

a result of spurious commands sent to the mount.



The mystery is why I only see these multiple images when I use Maxim for image

aquisition. It does not appear to happen when I use the Starlight software.



Mike Garrett



----------------------------

#3076 Jul 26, 2001

[snip]

> etc. There are dozens of reasons why stars are trailed, and it is

up to each > individual to set up his system so that this does not occur. I bet

if you > asked all the accomplished imagers what problems they ran into,

each one > could tell you 5 things that caused them problems, and each person

would have > 5 different things to contribute to the problem list.

>

[snip]



More like 25 things! And never the mount!



Gerald R. Miller



----------------------------

#3077 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/26/2001 12:59:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

mikejima@... writes:



> I'm interested in

> watching the serial data stream in order to verify that these multiple

> images are

> a result of spurious commands sent to the mount.

>

>



With Portmon you can see what's happening using one computer only. It is a

bear to use, however, and you will have to wade thru hundreds of lines to

find the needle in the haystack.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3078 Jul 26, 2001

Why not use Digital Sky Voice instead of the Sky?



----------------------------

#3079 Jul 26, 2001

Or the hand controller! ;-)



Mark



on 7/26/01 7:38 PM, John J. Kasianowicz at surpher@... wrote:

> Why not use Digital Sky Voice instead of the Sky?

>



----------------------------

#3082 Jul 26, 2001

If you need a "planetarium" like screen, try ECU (Earth Centered

Universe). It works very well with AP mounts. You can add up to 400

comets and asteroids. Very simple to use and will run quietly in the

background whilst CCDOPS/Maxim DL etc. are running. It is being

upgraded frequently.

--- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote:

> Or the hand controller! ;-)

>

> Mark

>

> on 7/26/01 7:38 PM, John J. Kasianowicz at surpher@e... wrote:

>

> > Why not use Digital Sky Voice instead of the Sky?

> >



----------------------------

#3084 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/26/2001 5:43:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

surpher@... writes:



> Why not use Digital Sky Voice instead of the Sky?

>

>

>

>



That would work for sure, but no star map.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3085 Jul 26, 2001

In a message dated 7/26/2001 8:44:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

cspratt@... writes:



> If you need a "planetarium" like screen, try ECU (Earth Centered

> Universe).



This is a really nice program. Charles showed it to me. It's very intuitive

and easy to use.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3086 Jul 26, 2001

One reason (of many):



TPoint



Mark

--- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote:

> Or the hand controller! ;-)

>

> Mark

>

> on 7/26/01 7:38 PM, John J. Kasianowicz at surpher@e... wrote:

>

> > Why not use Digital Sky Voice instead of the Sky?

> >



----------------------------

#3087 Jul 27, 2001

Charles, are you listening?



JJK wrote: > > Why not use Digital Sky Voice instead of the Sky?



RC replied: > That would work for sure, but no star map.



----------------------------

#3088 Jul 27, 2001

If you are using the current TheSky program in the "AP mount" mode then

I could believe that extra com ports commands are being sent. That

interface is certainly faulty.



However, using the LX200 mode to interface with the AP mount does

not produce extraneous move commands on the two computers I've used.



I always use TheSky as the remote control for the mount and it runs

continuously during the exposure session with 1/2 second position

updates. Using TheSky and AP130 in this mode, I have many 60 min

Ha ST-10 exposures with no visible trailing. The only problem is with

the AP600 DEC backlash when operating within 5 degrees of Zenith.



Here's a graph of the AP600 tracking performance at the end of a 60 min

session:



www.webcom.com/af9y/track1.htm



This is about as good as it gets with my mount.



> Roland Christen wrote:

>

> > You can have "The Sky" up, but don't link it to the mount. I am absolutely

> > certain that it will send random move commands to the mount

>

> I should qualify that. It seems to send random motions to our mount via the

> com port. I don't know how "The Sky" is integrated with the Paramount, but it

> would seem that they have a different way to couple the program to the mount.

> I have not fully investigated just waht signals are being sent to our mount

> via the serial port, and when I get some time, I will install either another

> computer to monitor the signals going back and forth, or use Portmon to

> analyze what's happening. Our mount has no choice but to move if directed to

> do so by an outside signal. In the case of imaging with guider attached, the

> mount is already gettign signals thru the RG11 port to move in both axes as

> commanded by the CCD guider, and as such really does not need any commands

> for motion to come barrelling down the serial port also.

>

> Again, I don't know what is happening inside my computer, but when I

> disconnect The Sky from the mount either by terminating the link or pulling

> the serial cable out, the system guides flawlessly all night long. As soon as

> I link up The Sky, i can guide for perhaps 1 to 2 minutes before the mount

> suddenly gets a small move command and the exposure is ruined.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







Mike Cook, AF9Y

www.webcom.com/af9y

mwcook@...







----------------------------

#3089 Jul 27, 2001

In a message dated 7/27/2001 9:22:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

mwcook@... writes:



> If you are using the current TheSky program in the "AP mount" mode then

> I could believe that extra com ports commands are being sent. That

> interface is certainly faulty.

>

> However, using the LX200 mode to interface with the AP mount does

> not produce extraneous move commands on the two computers I've used.

>

>



I have an older version of The Sky that does not have the new AP mode, and I

am using it in the LX200 mode. I had trouble with it again last night and had

to shut it off.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3090 Jul 27, 2001

In a message dated 7/27/2001 9:22:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

mwcook@... writes:



> Here's a graph of the AP600 tracking performance at the end of a 60 min

> session:

>

>



By the way, how did you get this graph?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3091 Jul 27, 2001

This is the real time graphing display from the STV.



One of the primary reasons I bought the STV was for the diagnosing

mount tracking problems.

>

> > Here's a graph of the AP600 tracking performance at the end of a 60 min

> > session:

> >

> >

>

> By the way, how did you get this graph?

>

> Roland Christen

>





Mike Cook, AF9Y

www.webcom.com/af9y

mwcook@...



----------------------------

#3092 Jul 27, 2001

Prior to upgrading, I ran with the older version (the one that allowed the high

precision command) before upgrading. It also ran with no extraneous move

commands.



Again, TheSky was operating in a continuous 1/2 second update mode with the

AP600 mount all night.



I really miss the high precision mode. Any idea when Software Bisque will

fix the problem?



> I have an older version of The Sky that does not have the new AP mode, and I

> am using it in the LX200 mode. I had trouble with it again last night and had

> to shut it off.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>





Mike Cook, AF9Y

www.webcom.com/af9y

mwcook@...



----------------------------

#3093 Jul 27, 2001

In a message dated 7/27/2001 10:11:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

mwcook@... writes:



> This is the real time graphing display from the STV.

>

> One of the primary reasons I bought the STV was for the diagnosing

> mount tracking problems.

>

>



Now I realize why your tracking camera is not interfering with The Sky. Your

STV is not attached to the computer which is displaying "The Sky", so there

is not going to be any interaction. This is different than the ST8/10 where

the same computer does imaging functions, tracking functions AND also has

"The Sky" running in the background with it's memory hogging routine that

constantly sends messages to the mount so it can update it's cursor. In your

case the STV is happily guiding away, totally unaware that The Sky is loaded

up in some other computer. So there is no chance for interference.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3094 Jul 27, 2001

In a message dated 7/27/2001 11:02:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

mwcook@... writes:



> Again, TheSky was operating in a continuous 1/2 second update mode with the

> AP600 mount all night



Did you also run your tracking camera thru the SAME computer?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3095 Jul 27, 2001

You may have something there. I use three computers during the

evening session:



1) Win 98, 400 Mhz Pentium running TheSky as remote control

and display of AP600 mount.



2) Win 95, 133 Mhz Laptop running STV in remote mode for

autoguiding with the AP Guidescope.



3) Win 98, 600 Mhz Laptop running CCDSoft 5 for the ST-10

CCD acquisition (Parallel Port) and RoboFocus (Serial Port).



Everything is remoted aprox 120' from my driveway to a room inside.



One additional note about DEC backlash. After many months of

data collection with the mount and including insight provide by

Wally at AP, I have a different opinion about the best settings

for tracking:



- DEC backlash compensation SHOULD be enabled for best

tracking. I know this has not been your (or Wally's) recommendation

but I believe there is a strong case for it. Instead of setting it

to zero, set it to 1/2 of the normal setting while autoguiding.

(During calibration, it should be at the normal setting.)



The reason for keeping some compensation is the rather large

(several seconds) of DEC backlash with the servo mounts. When

the DEC position is placing the OTA near vertical, there is no

weight to keep the gears meshed. During that condition, the

slightest wind or even RA movement can unmesh the gears. This

will result in an "impulse" position change that will take many

(sometimes up to 30 seconds) before it will be corrected.

Here is an example:



www.webcom.com/af9y/track2.htm



(notice that this also shows a little interaction between DEC

and RA for the large impulse at the end of the graph.)



With DEC backlash at 1/2 normal, you still get a hysteresis

effect where small seeing changes do not generate movement.

However, when the above "impulse" condition occurs, it will

be corrected much quicker than without compensation.



I've often thought about making a hinged arm off the OTA so

that it could be extended to provide an offset weight when

operating near vertical. As it stands now, I just do not image

within +/- 5 degrees of vertical.





> Now I realize why your tracking camera is not interfering with The Sky. Your

> STV is not attached to the computer which is displaying "The Sky", so there

> is not going to be any interaction. This is different than the ST8/10 where

> the same computer does imaging functions, tracking functions AND also has

> "The Sky" running in the background with it's memory hogging routine that

> constantly sends messages to the mount so it can update it's cursor. In your

> case the STV is happily guiding away, totally unaware that The Sky is loaded

> up in some other computer. So there is no chance for interference.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







Mike Cook, AF9Y

www.webcom.com/af9y

mwcook@...







----------------------------

#3097 Jul 27, 2001

--- In ap-gto@y..., "John J. Kasianowicz" surpher@e...> wrote: > Charles, are you listening?



Is you are Charles, PLEASE don't code it like that peice of you know

what> 'The Sky'. I've seen worse UI's, and UI behavior, but not by

much.



If you code a charting module, please please please, try it under the

stars and not in the comfort of an observatory or desk in a den.



----------------------------

#3098 Jul 28, 2001

I'm using an Apple PowerBook G3/266 along with TheSky version 5.0.5

to control my GTO 900 mount with the "LX 200" mode (Software Bisque

didn't update the Mac version for years...).

The same computer controls an ST-7 (through the SCSI/Parallel

adapter) for imaging and guiding.

My setup works (almost) flawlessly and all I can suggest is to switch

to a Mac and/or to use the "LX 200" mode only.



Diego Meozzi

> Roland Christen wrote:

>

> > You can have "The Sky" up, but don't link it to the mount. I am absolutely

> > certain that it will send random move commands to the mount

>

> I should qualify that. It seems to send random motions to our mount via the

> com port. I don't know how "The Sky" is integrated with the Paramount, but it

> would seem that they have a different way to couple the program to the mount.

> I have not fully investigated just waht signals are being sent to our mount

> via the serial port, and when I get some time, I will install either another

> computer to monitor the signals going back and forth, or use Portmon to

> analyze what's happening. Our mount has no choice but to move if directed to

> do so by an outside signal. In the case of imaging with guider attached, the

> mount is already gettign signals thru the RG11 port to move in both axes as

> commanded by the CCD guider, and as such really does not need any commands

> for motion to come barrelling down the serial port also.

>

> Again, I don't know what is happening inside my computer, but when I

> disconnect The Sky from the mount either by terminating the link or pulling

> the serial cable out, the system guides flawlessly all night long. As soon as

> I link up The Sky, i can guide for perhaps 1 to 2 minutes before the mount

> suddenly gets a small move command and the exposure is ruined.



----------------------------

#3100 Jul 28, 2001

In a message dated 7/28/2001 3:09:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

dmeozzi@... writes:



> My setup works (almost) flawlessly and all I can suggest is to switch

> to a Mac and/or to use the "LX 200" mode only.

>

>



The Mac may be the ticket. Again, it matters not whether you use the AP or

the LX200 mode. Both of them work exactly the same way, except for the level

of pointing precision. When The Sky is interrupted in its request for info

from the mount due to the computer being busy with guiding download

functions, it somehow sends out a barrage of spurious commands. We are in the

middle of investigating this as I type this note. This may in fact be a

Windows 2000 problem.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3101 Jul 28, 2001

When I used a DOS-based program to acquire data at high rates (using an A/D

board and double buffered DMA), the program worked flawlessly. When I

converted the C program to a Windows version of the compiler, the

acquisition failed at random time intervals. Windows was trying to do

something (fiddle with a disk or something) that would interfere with fast

writing to the disk. However, I suspect that one can teach it to stop that

nonsense.



----------------------------

#3277 Aug 14, 2001

I received received my AP 600EGTO mount. It is, indeed, a wonderful

piece of craftsmanship. AP no longer offers a case for their mounts.

I am lookng for suggestions.



I am looking primarily for a case to transport the mount in my car

(e.g. a padded softsided case might do), although I would not rule out

a more rugged one that I could use for airline transport.



I recall a thread a few months ago about a custom case that several of

you had made for your AP 1200 mounts. Could you point me to the

source, and comment on the pluses and minuses?



What about Pelican style cases? Can you get preformed foam to match

the mount exactly? I am concerned that "pick and pluck" foam cubes

might not last under the weight of the mount.



Also, what is the custom for transporting those wonderfully machined

counter-weights? They look too nice to bang around inside of a box!



All suggestions are appreciated.



Terry O.



----------------------------

#3282 Aug 15, 2001

Dear Terry,

I use a Pelican 1600 for my AP 600E GoTo mount. Because of the weight

involved, I wanted to get the smallest and lightest one possible that would

do the job. I got the padded dividers version. Don't get the foam version as

the foam gets ratty pretty quickly. The padded inserts hold up very well in

comparison. There is sufficient pad inserts to make several compartments, but

not just right combination for the 600E with the combining I tried - so I

took 4 of the pad inserts to a local shoe repair store and had two pairs of

them stitched together for the perfect combination. I also purchased the

bottom foam insert from the regular foam set for the bottom of the case below

the padded box insert . With this padded bottom, the thickly padded top, and

the regular padded box insert, and the velcro pads added all around (came

with the case) as well -- the mount is pretty safe. The whole thing looks

quite nice now and the 600E fits perfectly with padding all around it on all

six sides. I was able to make six separate separate compartments in the

Pelican 1600 for the 600E mount, keypad controller, servo unit, microphone,

microphone cord, AP polar scope, polar scope battery, the right-angle AP

finder with the finder bracket attached, the 3 base knobs, the counter weight

bar, two 9 pound weights, and the serial cord for compter, cord from servo to

mount, and the power cord. Perhaps when I can borrrow a digital camera I'll

post a picture of the setup with everything inside. I just came back from a

trip to Mt. Pinos (about 2 hours from my house) and everything traveled very

nicely and looked nice too!

The Pelican 1600 is very rugged and can take some knocks without any

damage to the case. I think this is a very good case for the 600E and

matches my black Pelican 1520 case I use for my Stowaway, eyepieces and

accessories. A bigger case would have the good advantage of offering more

padding and protection, but you would also have the disadvantage of the extra

weight (which might not be a problem for you). The case with the equipment

described above is already very heavy for me to carry around. I took it in

the hotel every night with the 130 so it would be safer than leaving in the

car.

Good Luck to you, Richard Lapides is California













terry@... wrote:

> I received received my AP 600EGTO mount. It is, indeed, a wonderful

> piece of craftsmanship. AP no longer offers a case for their mounts.

> I am lookng for suggestions.

>

> I am looking primarily for a case to transport the mount in my car

> (e.g. a padded softsided case might do), although I would not rule out

> a more rugged one that I could use for airline transport.

>

> I recall a thread a few months ago about a custom case that several of

> you had made for your AP 1200 mounts. Could you point me to the

> source, and comment on the pluses and minuses?

>

> What about Pelican style cases? Can you get preformed foam to match

> the mount exactly? I am concerned that "pick and pluck" foam cubes

> might not last under the weight of the mount.

>

> Also, what is the custom for transporting those wonderfully machined

> counter-weights? They look too nice to bang around inside of a box!

>

> All suggestions are appreciated.

>

> Terry O.

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#3283 Aug 15, 2001

On 8/14/01 10:45 PM terry@... wrote:

> I received received my AP 600EGTO mount. It is, indeed, a wonderful

> piece of craftsmanship. AP no longer offers a case for their mounts.

> I am lookng for suggestions.



Congratulations.



I have one of the Astro-Physics cases for the 600EGTO that I'd sell. It is a

nice case with velvet lining and an anodized ring to attach the mount.

However, there is nothing to keep the mount from flopping on the altitude

axis So, it is not good for shipping nor transporting in a car on twisty

roads. It's great if you just need something to store it in.

> Also, what is the custom for transporting those wonderfully machined

> counter-weights? They look too nice to bang around inside of a box!



I put them on the carpet in front of the passenger's front seat. That way if

I have to stop fast, or am in an accident, they wont come flying forward

like cannon balls. I usually put something soft between them to keep them

from banging together.



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html



Casady & Greene, Inc.

www.casadyg.com



----------------------------

#3292 Aug 15, 2001

Richard:



Thank you for the detailed and thoughtful reply. I am interested in

a seeing how the Pelican 1600 works for you for the 600 mount and

accessories. (Others have suggested much larger Pelican cases - 1620

and 1650 - but for car transport a smaller case is interesting.)



By the way, where in California do you live? I am in the SF Bay Area.



Terry O.

--- In ap-gto@y..., lapides.family@a... wrote:



> I use a Pelican 1600 for my AP 600E GoTo mount.......



----------------------------

#3293 Aug 15, 2001

Robin:



Thank you for the offer, but I am looking for a case than can at

least stand up to car travel over rough and winding roads.



Terry O.

--- In ap-gto@y..., Robin Casady rcasady@c...> wrote:



> I have one of the Astro-Physics cases for the 600EGTO that I'd

sell.



----------------------------

#3294 Aug 15, 2001

Terry,



I use one of the 1650 pelican's. I don't know how the other

gentleman put everything in the 1600. Just doesn't seem like it

would fit.



Anyway in my 1650 I can get the mount, counterweight shaft,

counterweights, GTO box, controller, and all cables. Nice package

with about 2" of foam on all sides.



You are right about the pick & pluck foam. It does NOT hold up under

the weight of the 600 and its various items. I will replacing my

pick and pluck stuff with custom cut stuff.



I'm probably going to cut it myself. I've heard that a articulating

turkey knife does a good job. Alternatively we have a foam house in

town and I might ask them what they will charge to run their special

cutter around on my lines. Probably not too much if I buy the foam

through them I expect.



Anyway the 1650 is a great choice. Fits in most cars, rugged, and

provides a good amount of foam around the mount.



Mark



----------------------------

#3320 Aug 21, 2001

Hey AP-GTO,

I have now had two nights out with my new AP600EGTO and I think I have her

figured out:-) I have enjoyed a great 600EQMD for the past year+. I have

discovered how the 600GTO is more sensitive to circuit overload than the

QMD. As the manual states (paraphrasing) in order to minimize damage to the

servo motors the mount will stop the motors if there is a severe balance

problem making the servo motors work too hard. On my first night out I

experienced the "amber light", indicative of many problems, one of which is

a severe balance problem. It was 3 a.m. and I was dead tired, so I packed

it in. I thought it was probably my power supply. I checked the battery

the next day and it was fine. I then read the manual :-) I mount a

130EDT/Pentax 6x7 camera/AP guidescope/SBIG ST-4. The mount is probably

under a very heavy load condition and is more susceptible to the

servo-saving shutoff routine. Last night I was very careful with my balance

and the mount tracked beautifully. The ST-4 gave A0 and A1 all night. I am

very pleased with the mount so far and I haven't even hit "GOTO" yet:-)



Jeff Ball

Astrophotography

www.astro-photography.com

Ohio Valley Astronomical Society

www.ovas.org



----------------------------

#3386 Sep 1, 2001

Saturday, September 1, 2001

Dear Fellow AP mount users,

I was wondering if anyone could please help me with my 600E GoTo Mount

with a tracking problem I'm having. I am using the AP 130 telescope with the

mount.

I polar aligned in the daytime with the sun and the park positions. I

polar aligned with the sun today more than 10 times over the course of more

than 4 hours. I got to the point that I could slew to Venus and have it dead

center with a 22mm Nagler T4. I then went back to the sun and it was also dead

center in the eyepiece.

The problem is -- after Venus is acquired it constantly drifts out of the

field of view and I have to continually correct with the arrow keys. If I go

back and request slew to Venus, Venus is again dead center, but immediately

begins to drift out of the vield of view at my lowest power of 35x. I balance

the mount with 2 9# weights and balance seems to be OK. Does anyone have any

ideas of what I am doing wrong? I tried with Sol. and Side. tracking from

the main menu without any improvement.

Also, the Recalc function doesn't seem to work for me. After RA selected,

and #9 selected - the program doesn't let me out of this screen. I tried

pressing RA again (that got me into the screen), but nothing happened. The

only way I could get out was to push Menu. Am I doing something wrong? This

recalc also doesn't help at all with the tracking problem I'm having. Am I

doing something wrong, or overlooking something? Or is there another problem

that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun??? If

I'm doing something stupid or not doing something I should be doing please

please excuse my lack of experience.

Thank you for any help or suggestions you might give me.

Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

eMail: Lapides.Family@...







----------------------------

#3389 Sep 1, 2001

In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

lapides.family@... writes:



> .

> The problem is -- after Venus is acquired it constantly drifts out of

> the

> field of view and I have to continually correct with the arrow keys. If I go

> back and request slew to Venus, Venus is again dead center, but immediately

> begins to drift out of the vield of view at my lowest power of 35x



Both Venus and the Moon do drift in the eyepiece at high powers because they

do not have the same motions as the stars or the sun. During certain portions

of the orbit, Venus does travel quite rapidly against the background stars.

There is no one fixed rate that will allow you to track these objects. When I

image the Moon at high powers, I actually offset my alt and az axes so that

the Moon will stay still for a period of time. Ideally, one would like to

dial in a variable rate for both axes that will slowly follow all such

objects. We are considering such a system for the future. At this time it

cannot be done.



If the object drifts out at low powers, then you probably have not reached

polar alignment, although the fact that you can get it back each time seems

to indicate that the object is moving rapidly in its orbit at this time. Have

you tried tracking the sun? Does it also drift out?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3390 Sep 1, 2001

In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

lapides.family@... writes:



> Or is there another problem

> that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???



Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in balance),

then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking in

Southern or northern hemisphere?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3392 Sep 1, 2001

Saturday, September 1, 2001

Dear Roland,

Thank you for your quick reply. Last week Wally helped me adjust my backlash.

He tested this out with me after the adjustment by using the direction buttons

when he was finished and everything seemed OK and worked properly, but they may

have been tightened down to snugly (?) The arrow buttons do work properly. Does

this indicate that the clutches are adjusted properly?

I tried using only one 9# weight at the very end of the counterweight bar,

but that was not enough weight. I use the heavy Naglers and the heavy 2" 4x

TeleVue Barlow along with the AP finder scope. In order to make enough room for

the leveler, I put one 9# weight at the top of the counter-weight bar and the

other 9# one near the bottom of the bar. Marj suggested this to me. Previously

both 9# weights were about in the center of the bar, but this didn't alllow room

for the level. I was trying to put level on top of the 2 weights, but because

the diameters were slightly different the level would slope. I also tried putting

on the top of just one weight.

I just rememnbered that I did receive the message "Motor Stall". I than

tried slewing to another object and mount worked as did the directional buttons,

so I forgot about this "Motor Stall" message. I also checked the connections and

plugs and they seemed to be OK.

For Venus tracking I was using my lowest power eyepiece (22mm or about 35x).

For tracking the sun I was also using this same 22x. Both Venus and the Sun

immediately began to drift at 35x after they were acquired. I guessed that the

motors were working properly since when I went to Venus it was dead on for the

3 times I tried it. If the clutches were slipping, I guessed it wouldn't return

to the correct position each time - would it? As a matter of fact, each time

Venus went out of the field of view I used the go to Venus command to skew back

to Venus and it did return to dead center of the eyepiece.

The same problem with the sun, but drifting was slower since the diameter is

so much larger. The sun went completely out of the 35x field of view within 8-10

minutes or so. Venus was only able to stay in the field of view for about 2

minutes at 35x. You said that Venus does drift at high powers, but I used a lower

35x power. Even at 8x looking at Venus in the AP Right-Angle finder you can

visually see it traveling down the field of view in the finder scope. Venus

remains in the field of view much longer in the finder scope of course.

Any ideas? Do you think the recalibration problem I desccribed before might

be causing the problem ?. Is there a problem with the recalibration routine

based on my comments ? T hank you again for any help, or suggestions?

Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California











chris1011@... wrote:

> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

> lapides.family@... writes:

>

> > Or is there another problem

> > that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

>

> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in balance),

> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking in

> Southern or northern hemisphere?

>

> Roland Christen

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#3393 Sep 1, 2001

Saturday, Sept. 1, 2001

Dear Roland,

I just did a test on my 600E mount. After the sun is acquired, it begins to

drift and looking at the cross hairs in the 8x50 AP right-angle finder scope, the

sun drifts from the dead center of the eyepiece to the outside perimeter of the

disk in 5 minutes. Issuing the command goto the sun brings the sun back into dead

center of the eyepiece and at the center of the finder cross-hairs. In a visual

inspection, it looked like to me that only the Right-Ascension axis moved to get

the sun back to the center of the eyepiece. Does this help in diagnosising the

problem?

Thanks Again, Richard Lapides in California







chris1011@... wrote:

> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

> lapides.family@... writes:

>

> > Or is there another problem

> > that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

>

> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in balance),

> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking in

> Southern or northern hemisphere?

>

> Roland Christen

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#3394 Sep 1, 2001

How well is the scope balanced with everything that your are using for

viewing, eyepieces, finder scope, etc.?



The drift of the Sun is in what direction? Does it follow the RA buttons

direction, or the Dec buttons?



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html



Casady & Greene, Inc.

www.casadyg.com





On 9/1/01 5:15 PM lapides.family@... wrote:



> Saturday, September 1, 2001

> Dear Roland,

> Thank you for your quick reply. Last week Wally helped me adjust my

> backlash.

> He tested this out with me after the adjustment by using the direction buttons

> when he was finished and everything seemed OK and worked properly, but they

> may

> have been tightened down to snugly (?) The arrow buttons do work properly.

> Does

> this indicate that the clutches are adjusted properly?

> I tried using only one 9# weight at the very end of the counterweight bar,

> but that was not enough weight. I use the heavy Naglers and the heavy 2" 4x

> TeleVue Barlow along with the AP finder scope. In order to make enough room

> for

> the leveler, I put one 9# weight at the top of the counter-weight bar and the

> other 9# one near the bottom of the bar. Marj suggested this to me. Previously

> both 9# weights were about in the center of the bar, but this didn't alllow

> room

> for the level. I was trying to put level on top of the 2 weights, but because

> the diameters were slightly different the level would slope. I also tried

> putting

> on the top of just one weight.

> I just rememnbered that I did receive the message "Motor Stall". I than

> tried slewing to another object and mount worked as did the directional

> buttons,

> so I forgot about this "Motor Stall" message. I also checked the connections

> and

> plugs and they seemed to be OK.

> For Venus tracking I was using my lowest power eyepiece (22mm or about 35x).

> For tracking the sun I was also using this same 22x. Both Venus and the Sun

> immediately began to drift at 35x after they were acquired. I guessed that the

> motors were working properly since when I went to Venus it was dead on for the

> 3 times I tried it. If the clutches were slipping, I guessed it wouldn't

> return

> to the correct position each time - would it? As a matter of fact, each time

> Venus went out of the field of view I used the go to Venus command to skew

> back

> to Venus and it did return to dead center of the eyepiece.

> The same problem with the sun, but drifting was slower since the diameter is

> so much larger. The sun went completely out of the 35x field of view within

> 8-10

> minutes or so. Venus was only able to stay in the field of view for about 2

> minutes at 35x. You said that Venus does drift at high powers, but I used a

> lower

> 35x power. Even at 8x looking at Venus in the AP Right-Angle finder you can

> visually see it traveling down the field of view in the finder scope. Venus

> remains in the field of view much longer in the finder scope of course.

> Any ideas? Do you think the recalibration problem I desccribed before might

> be causing the problem ?. Is there a problem with the recalibration routine

> based on my comments ? T hank you again for any help, or suggestions?

> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

>

>

>

>

>

> chris1011@... wrote:

>

>> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

>> lapides.family@... writes:

>>

>>> Or is there another problem

>>> that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

>>

>> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

>> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in balance),

>> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking in

>> Southern or northern hemisphere?

>>

>> Roland Christen

>>

>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>>

>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>

>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>







----------------------------

#3395 Sep 1, 2001

Hi Robin,

The sun drifts only down on the Right Ascencion axis only. There seems to be no

tracking on the RA axis. I balanced and everything seems OK. This RA problem seems

curious since all the directional buttons work. Also, when sun drifts out of field

of view in 5 minutes, I have to issue the "Go To the sun" command and the sun

returns to dead center of the finder and telescope. After I issue the command the RA

axis moves to the correct location. Except -- the suns then immediately begins to

drift out of the field of view again. It seems like the problem is with the RA

axis. What do you think? Do you have any ideas of what I can do to get tracking on

the RA axis?

Thank You for any comments or suggestions you might give to me.

Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California











Robin Casady wrote:

> How well is the scope balanced with everything that your are using for

> viewing, eyepieces, finder scope, etc.?

>

> The drift of the Sun is in what direction? Does it follow the RA buttons

> direction, or the Dec buttons?

>

> Regards,

> Robin

>

> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

>

> Casady & Greene, Inc.

> www.casadyg.com

>

> On 9/1/01 5:15 PM lapides.family@... wrote:

>

> > Saturday, September 1, 2001

> > Dear Roland,

> > Thank you for your quick reply. Last week Wally helped me adjust my

> > backlash.

> > He tested this out with me after the adjustment by using the direction buttons

> > when he was finished and everything seemed OK and worked properly, but they

> > may

> > have been tightened down to snugly (?) The arrow buttons do work properly.

> > Does

> > this indicate that the clutches are adjusted properly?

> > I tried using only one 9# weight at the very end of the counterweight bar,

> > but that was not enough weight. I use the heavy Naglers and the heavy 2" 4x

> > TeleVue Barlow along with the AP finder scope. In order to make enough room

> > for

> > the leveler, I put one 9# weight at the top of the counter-weight bar and the

> > other 9# one near the bottom of the bar. Marj suggested this to me. Previously

> > both 9# weights were about in the center of the bar, but this didn't alllow

> > room

> > for the level. I was trying to put level on top of the 2 weights, but because

> > the diameters were slightly different the level would slope. I also tried

> > putting

> > on the top of just one weight.

> > I just rememnbered that I did receive the message "Motor Stall". I than

> > tried slewing to another object and mount worked as did the directional

> > buttons,

> > so I forgot about this "Motor Stall" message. I also checked the connections

> > and

> > plugs and they seemed to be OK.

> > For Venus tracking I was using my lowest power eyepiece (22mm or about 35x).

> > For tracking the sun I was also using this same 22x. Both Venus and the Sun

> > immediately began to drift at 35x after they were acquired. I guessed that the

> > motors were working properly since when I went to Venus it was dead on for the

> > 3 times I tried it. If the clutches were slipping, I guessed it wouldn't

> > return

> > to the correct position each time - would it? As a matter of fact, each time

> > Venus went out of the field of view I used the go to Venus command to skew

> > back

> > to Venus and it did return to dead center of the eyepiece.

> > The same problem with the sun, but drifting was slower since the diameter is

> > so much larger. The sun went completely out of the 35x field of view within

> > 8-10

> > minutes or so. Venus was only able to stay in the field of view for about 2

> > minutes at 35x. You said that Venus does drift at high powers, but I used a

> > lower

> > 35x power. Even at 8x looking at Venus in the AP Right-Angle finder you can

> > visually see it traveling down the field of view in the finder scope. Venus

> > remains in the field of view much longer in the finder scope of course.

> > Any ideas? Do you think the recalibration problem I desccribed before might

> > be causing the problem ?. Is there a problem with the recalibration routine

> > based on my comments ? T hank you again for any help, or suggestions?

> > Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > chris1011@... wrote:

> >

> >> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

> >> lapides.family@... writes:

> >>

> >>> Or is there another problem

> >>> that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

> >>

> >> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

> >> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in balance),

> >> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking in

> >> Southern or northern hemisphere?

> >>

> >> Roland Christen

> >>

> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >>

> >> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >>

> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#3396 Sep 1, 2001

What tracking rate is the mount set on? You might try changing to Solar,

Lunar, etc. to see if there is any difference.



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html



Casady & Greene, Inc.

www.casadyg.com





On 9/1/01 6:39 PM lapides.family@... wrote:



> Hi Robin,

> The sun drifts only down on the Right Ascencion axis only. There seems to be

> no

> tracking on the RA axis. I balanced and everything seems OK. This RA problem

> seems

> curious since all the directional buttons work. Also, when sun drifts out of

> field

> of view in 5 minutes, I have to issue the "Go To the sun" command and the sun

> returns to dead center of the finder and telescope. After I issue the command

> the RA

> axis moves to the correct location. Except -- the suns then immediately begins

> to

> drift out of the field of view again. It seems like the problem is with the

> RA

> axis. What do you think? Do you have any ideas of what I can do to get

> tracking on

> the RA axis?

> Thank You for any comments or suggestions you might give to me.

> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

>

>

>

>

>

> Robin Casady wrote:

>

>> How well is the scope balanced with everything that your are using for

>> viewing, eyepieces, finder scope, etc.?

>>

>> The drift of the Sun is in what direction? Does it follow the RA buttons

>> direction, or the Dec buttons?

>>

>> Regards,

>> Robin

>>

>> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

>> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

>> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

>>

>> Casady & Greene, Inc.

>> www.casadyg.com

>>

>> On 9/1/01 5:15 PM lapides.family@... wrote:

>>

>>> Saturday, September 1, 2001

>>> Dear Roland,

>>> Thank you for your quick reply. Last week Wally helped me adjust my

>>> backlash.

>>> He tested this out with me after the adjustment by using the direction

>>> buttons

>>> when he was finished and everything seemed OK and worked properly, but they

>>> may

>>> have been tightened down to snugly (?) The arrow buttons do work properly.

>>> Does

>>> this indicate that the clutches are adjusted properly?

>>> I tried using only one 9# weight at the very end of the counterweight bar,

>>> but that was not enough weight. I use the heavy Naglers and the heavy 2" 4x

>>> TeleVue Barlow along with the AP finder scope. In order to make enough room

>>> for

>>> the leveler, I put one 9# weight at the top of the counter-weight bar and

>>> the

>>> other 9# one near the bottom of the bar. Marj suggested this to me.

>>> Previously

>>> both 9# weights were about in the center of the bar, but this didn't alllow

>>> room

>>> for the level. I was trying to put level on top of the 2 weights, but

>>> because

>>> the diameters were slightly different the level would slope. I also tried

>>> putting

>>> on the top of just one weight.

>>> I just rememnbered that I did receive the message "Motor Stall". I than

>>> tried slewing to another object and mount worked as did the directional

>>> buttons,

>>> so I forgot about this "Motor Stall" message. I also checked the connections

>>> and

>>> plugs and they seemed to be OK.

>>> For Venus tracking I was using my lowest power eyepiece (22mm or about

>>> 35x).

>>> For tracking the sun I was also using this same 22x. Both Venus and the Sun

>>> immediately began to drift at 35x after they were acquired. I guessed that

>>> the

>>> motors were working properly since when I went to Venus it was dead on for

>>> the

>>> 3 times I tried it. If the clutches were slipping, I guessed it wouldn't

>>> return

>>> to the correct position each time - would it? As a matter of fact, each

>>> time

>>> Venus went out of the field of view I used the go to Venus command to skew

>>> back

>>> to Venus and it did return to dead center of the eyepiece.

>>> The same problem with the sun, but drifting was slower since the diameter

>>> is

>>> so much larger. The sun went completely out of the 35x field of view within

>>> 8-10

>>> minutes or so. Venus was only able to stay in the field of view for about 2

>>> minutes at 35x. You said that Venus does drift at high powers, but I used a

>>> lower

>>> 35x power. Even at 8x looking at Venus in the AP Right-Angle finder you can

>>> visually see it traveling down the field of view in the finder scope. Venus

>>> remains in the field of view much longer in the finder scope of course.

>>> Any ideas? Do you think the recalibration problem I desccribed before

>>> might

>>> be causing the problem ?. Is there a problem with the recalibration

>>> routine

>>> based on my comments ? T hank you again for any help, or suggestions?

>>> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>> chris1011@... wrote:

>>>

>>>> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

>>>> lapides.family@... writes:

>>>>

>>>>> Or is there another problem

>>>>> that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

>>>>

>>>> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

>>>> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in

>>>> balance),

>>>> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking

>>>> in

>>>> Southern or northern hemisphere?

>>>>

>>>> Roland Christen

>>>>

>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>>>>

>>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>>

>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>

>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>

>>>

>>

>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>

>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>







----------------------------

#3397 Sep 1, 2001

Robin, I did try changing to Sol. and Side. rates but this had no effect, and the

RA axis continues to not tract even though all four of the directional buttons all

work. Also, the initial go to commands works and brings the object into dead-center

of the eyepiece, when the drifting in the RA begins immediately. It seems like this

a real mystery to me. I don't think I understand the inner workings of the mount to

have any idea of what's going on that is wrong.

Thanks for any thoughts you might have.

Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California









Robin Casady wrote:

> What tracking rate is the mount set on? You might try changing to Solar,

> Lunar, etc. to see if there is any difference.

>

> Regards,

> Robin

>

> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

>

> Casady & Greene, Inc.

> www.casadyg.com

>

> On 9/1/01 6:39 PM lapides.family@... wrote:

>

> > Hi Robin,

> > The sun drifts only down on the Right Ascencion axis only. There seems to be

> > no

> > tracking on the RA axis. I balanced and everything seems OK. This RA problem

> > seems

> > curious since all the directional buttons work. Also, when sun drifts out of

> > field

> > of view in 5 minutes, I have to issue the "Go To the sun" command and the sun

> > returns to dead center of the finder and telescope. After I issue the command

> > the RA

> > axis moves to the correct location. Except -- the suns then immediately begins

> > to

> > drift out of the field of view again. It seems like the problem is with the

> > RA

> > axis. What do you think? Do you have any ideas of what I can do to get

> > tracking on

> > the RA axis?

> > Thank You for any comments or suggestions you might give to me.

> > Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Robin Casady wrote:

> >

> >> How well is the scope balanced with everything that your are using for

> >> viewing, eyepieces, finder scope, etc.?

> >>

> >> The drift of the Sun is in what direction? Does it follow the RA buttons

> >> direction, or the Dec buttons?

> >>

> >> Regards,

> >> Robin

> >>

> >> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

> >> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

> >> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

> >>

> >> Casady & Greene, Inc.

> >> www.casadyg.com

> >>

> >> On 9/1/01 5:15 PM lapides.family@... wrote:

> >>

> >>> Saturday, September 1, 2001

> >>> Dear Roland,

> >>> Thank you for your quick reply. Last week Wally helped me adjust my

> >>> backlash.

> >>> He tested this out with me after the adjustment by using the direction

> >>> buttons

> >>> when he was finished and everything seemed OK and worked properly, but they

> >>> may

> >>> have been tightened down to snugly (?) The arrow buttons do work properly.

> >>> Does

> >>> this indicate that the clutches are adjusted properly?

> >>> I tried using only one 9# weight at the very end of the counterweight bar,

> >>> but that was not enough weight. I use the heavy Naglers and the heavy 2" 4x

> >>> TeleVue Barlow along with the AP finder scope. In order to make enough room

> >>> for

> >>> the leveler, I put one 9# weight at the top of the counter-weight bar and

> >>> the

> >>> other 9# one near the bottom of the bar. Marj suggested this to me.

> >>> Previously

> >>> both 9# weights were about in the center of the bar, but this didn't alllow

> >>> room

> >>> for the level. I was trying to put level on top of the 2 weights, but

> >>> because

> >>> the diameters were slightly different the level would slope. I also tried

> >>> putting

> >>> on the top of just one weight.

> >>> I just rememnbered that I did receive the message "Motor Stall". I than

> >>> tried slewing to another object and mount worked as did the directional

> >>> buttons,

> >>> so I forgot about this "Motor Stall" message. I also checked the connections

> >>> and

> >>> plugs and they seemed to be OK.

> >>> For Venus tracking I was using my lowest power eyepiece (22mm or about

> >>> 35x).

> >>> For tracking the sun I was also using this same 22x. Both Venus and the Sun

> >>> immediately began to drift at 35x after they were acquired. I guessed that

> >>> the

> >>> motors were working properly since when I went to Venus it was dead on for

> >>> the

> >>> 3 times I tried it. If the clutches were slipping, I guessed it wouldn't

> >>> return

> >>> to the correct position each time - would it? As a matter of fact, each

> >>> time

> >>> Venus went out of the field of view I used the go to Venus command to skew

> >>> back

> >>> to Venus and it did return to dead center of the eyepiece.

> >>> The same problem with the sun, but drifting was slower since the diameter

> >>> is

> >>> so much larger. The sun went completely out of the 35x field of view within

> >>> 8-10

> >>> minutes or so. Venus was only able to stay in the field of view for about 2

> >>> minutes at 35x. You said that Venus does drift at high powers, but I used a

> >>> lower

> >>> 35x power. Even at 8x looking at Venus in the AP Right-Angle finder you can

> >>> visually see it traveling down the field of view in the finder scope. Venus

> >>> remains in the field of view much longer in the finder scope of course.

> >>> Any ideas? Do you think the recalibration problem I desccribed before

> >>> might

> >>> be causing the problem ?. Is there a problem with the recalibration

> >>> routine

> >>> based on my comments ? T hank you again for any help, or suggestions?

> >>> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

> >>>

> >>>

> >>>

> >>>

> >>>

> >>> chris1011@... wrote:

> >>>

> >>>> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

> >>>> lapides.family@... writes:

> >>>>

> >>>>> Or is there another problem

> >>>>> that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

> >>>>

> >>>> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight, and

> >>>> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in

> >>>> balance),

> >>>> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking

> >>>> in

> >>>> Southern or northern hemisphere?

> >>>>

> >>>> Roland Christen

> >>>>

> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >>>>

> >>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >>>>

> >>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >>>

> >>>

> >>>

> >>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >>>

> >>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >>>

> >>>

> >>

> >> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >>

> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#3398 Sep 1, 2001

The buttons work at all speeds? That really is strange. If it were a

mechanical problem I wouldn't expect the buttons to work at slow speeds. Got

to be software, got to be software, got to...



You did check the N/S switch on the box as Roland suggested? You might flip

it south and back again, and/or try it set to south.



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html



Casady & Greene, Inc.

www.casadyg.com





On 9/1/01 7:07 PM lapides.family@... wrote:



> Robin, I did try changing to Sol. and Side. rates but this had no effect, and

> the

> RA axis continues to not tract even though all four of the directional

> buttons all

> work. Also, the initial go to commands works and brings the object into

> dead-center

> of the eyepiece, when the drifting in the RA begins immediately. It seems like

> this

> a real mystery to me. I don't think I understand the inner workings of the

> mount to

> have any idea of what's going on that is wrong.

> Thanks for any thoughts you might have.

> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

>

>

>

>

> Robin Casady wrote:

>

>> What tracking rate is the mount set on? You might try changing to Solar,

>> Lunar, etc. to see if there is any difference.

>>

>> Regards,

>> Robin

>>

>> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

>> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

>> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

>>

>> Casady & Greene, Inc.

>> www.casadyg.com

>>

>> On 9/1/01 6:39 PM lapides.family@... wrote:

>>

>>> Hi Robin,

>>> The sun drifts only down on the Right Ascencion axis only. There seems to

>>> be

>>> no

>>> tracking on the RA axis. I balanced and everything seems OK. This RA

>>> problem

>>> seems

>>> curious since all the directional buttons work. Also, when sun drifts out

>>> of

>>> field

>>> of view in 5 minutes, I have to issue the "Go To the sun" command and the

>>> sun

>>> returns to dead center of the finder and telescope. After I issue the

>>> command

>>> the RA

>>> axis moves to the correct location. Except -- the suns then immediately

>>> begins

>>> to

>>> drift out of the field of view again. It seems like the problem is with the

>>> RA

>>> axis. What do you think? Do you have any ideas of what I can do to get

>>> tracking on

>>> the RA axis?

>>> Thank You for any comments or suggestions you might give to me.

>>> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>> Robin Casady wrote:

>>>

>>>> How well is the scope balanced with everything that your are using for

>>>> viewing, eyepieces, finder scope, etc.?

>>>>

>>>> The drift of the Sun is in what direction? Does it follow the RA buttons

>>>> direction, or the Dec buttons?

>>>>

>>>> Regards,

>>>> Robin

>>>>

>>>> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

>>>> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

>>>> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

>>>>

>>>> Casady & Greene, Inc.

>>>> www.casadyg.com

>>>>

>>>> On 9/1/01 5:15 PM lapides.family@... wrote:

>>>>

>>>>> Saturday, September 1, 2001

>>>>> Dear Roland,

>>>>> Thank you for your quick reply. Last week Wally helped me adjust my

>>>>> backlash.

>>>>> He tested this out with me after the adjustment by using the direction

>>>>> buttons

>>>>> when he was finished and everything seemed OK and worked properly, but

>>>>> they

>>>>> may

>>>>> have been tightened down to snugly (?) The arrow buttons do work

>>>>> properly.

>>>>> Does

>>>>> this indicate that the clutches are adjusted properly?

>>>>> I tried using only one 9# weight at the very end of the counterweight

>>>>> bar,

>>>>> but that was not enough weight. I use the heavy Naglers and the heavy 2"

>>>>> 4x

>>>>> TeleVue Barlow along with the AP finder scope. In order to make enough

>>>>> room

>>>>> for

>>>>> the leveler, I put one 9# weight at the top of the counter-weight bar and

>>>>> the

>>>>> other 9# one near the bottom of the bar. Marj suggested this to me.

>>>>> Previously

>>>>> both 9# weights were about in the center of the bar, but this didn't

>>>>> alllow

>>>>> room

>>>>> for the level. I was trying to put level on top of the 2 weights, but

>>>>> because

>>>>> the diameters were slightly different the level would slope. I also tried

>>>>> putting

>>>>> on the top of just one weight.

>>>>> I just rememnbered that I did receive the message "Motor Stall". I

>>>>> than

>>>>> tried slewing to another object and mount worked as did the directional

>>>>> buttons,

>>>>> so I forgot about this "Motor Stall" message. I also checked the

>>>>> connections

>>>>> and

>>>>> plugs and they seemed to be OK.

>>>>> For Venus tracking I was using my lowest power eyepiece (22mm or about

>>>>> 35x).

>>>>> For tracking the sun I was also using this same 22x. Both Venus and the

>>>>> Sun

>>>>> immediately began to drift at 35x after they were acquired. I guessed that

>>>>> the

>>>>> motors were working properly since when I went to Venus it was dead on for

>>>>> the

>>>>> 3 times I tried it. If the clutches were slipping, I guessed it wouldn't

>>>>> return

>>>>> to the correct position each time - would it? As a matter of fact, each

>>>>> time

>>>>> Venus went out of the field of view I used the go to Venus command to skew

>>>>> back

>>>>> to Venus and it did return to dead center of the eyepiece.

>>>>> The same problem with the sun, but drifting was slower since the

>>>>> diameter

>>>>> is

>>>>> so much larger. The sun went completely out of the 35x field of view

>>>>> within

>>>>> 8-10

>>>>> minutes or so. Venus was only able to stay in the field of view for about

>>>>> 2

>>>>> minutes at 35x. You said that Venus does drift at high powers, but I used

>>>>> a

>>>>> lower

>>>>> 35x power. Even at 8x looking at Venus in the AP Right-Angle finder you

>>>>> can

>>>>> visually see it traveling down the field of view in the finder scope.

>>>>> Venus

>>>>> remains in the field of view much longer in the finder scope of course.

>>>>> Any ideas? Do you think the recalibration problem I desccribed before

>>>>> might

>>>>> be causing the problem ?. Is there a problem with the recalibration

>>>>> routine

>>>>> based on my comments ? T hank you again for any help, or suggestions?

>>>>> Sincerely, Richard Lapides in California

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>> chris1011@... wrote:

>>>>>

>>>>>> In a message dated 9/1/2001 4:04:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

>>>>>> lapides.family@... writes:

>>>>>>

>>>>>>> Or is there another problem

>>>>>>> that might be causing my mount's inability to track Venus or the Sun???

>>>>>>

>>>>>> Another thought, are your clutches tight? If the RA axis is not tight,

>>>>>> and

>>>>>> you have too much counterweight for the scope's weight (i.e. not in

>>>>>> balance),

>>>>>> then the clutch might be slipping. Another thing to check, is it tracking

>>>>>> in

>>>>>> Southern or northern hemisphere?

>>>>>>

>>>>>> Roland Christen

>>>>>>

>>>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>>>>>>

>>>>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>>>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>>>>

>>>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>>>

>>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>>>

>>>>>

>>>>

>>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>>

>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>

>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>

>>>

>>

>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>

>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>







----------------------------

#3918 Oct 28, 2001

Hi,

I just purchased a used 600E and after a 10 hour round trip drive,

I'm not able to use it on a perfectly clear night. :( My problem is

that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a location or

to calibrate. It becomes totally unresponsive and only a power cycle

will reinitialize it. I'm following the manual as near as I can

tell. It is a GOTOCP1. By any measure, the mount looks like brand

new. I bought it from the son of the original owner who claimed his

dad rarely used it and from all indications, he's right. (It was

still in the original packing). Therefore, I conclude I'm making

some stupid mistake. Anyone able to point me in the right

direction? I can call AP tomorrow but then I'll miss the great night

tonight. (I'll do the firmware deal then so if that's the problem

I'll get it that way)

Thank You!

Bob Rickert



----------------------------

#3919 Oct 28, 2001

Hi,

I just purchased a used 600E and after a 10 hour round trip drive,

I'm not able to use it on a perfectly clear night. :( My problem is

that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a location or

to calibrate. It becomes totally unresponsive and only a power cycle

will reinitialize it. I'm following the manual as near as I can

tell. It is a GOTOCP1. By any measure, the mount looks like brand

new. I bought it from the son of the original owner who claimed his

dad rarely used it and from all indications, he's right. (It was

still in the original packing). Therefore, I conclude I'm making

some stupid mistake. Anyone able to point me in the right

direction? I can call AP tomorrow but then I'll miss the great night

tonight. (I'll do the firmware deal then so if that's the problem

I'll get it that way)

Thank You!

Bob Rickert



----------------------------

#3920 Oct 28, 2001

Have you set up the location, time, offset from Greenwich, etc. before

trying to use it? The it may have some setting that are causing problems.



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html



Casady & Greene, Inc.

www.casadyg.com





On 10/28/01 6:03 PM rgrickert@... wrote:



> Hi,

> I just purchased a used 600E and after a 10 hour round trip drive,

> I'm not able to use it on a perfectly clear night. :( My problem is

> that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a location or

> to calibrate. It becomes totally unresponsive and only a power cycle

> will reinitialize it. I'm following the manual as near as I can

> tell. It is a GOTOCP1. By any measure, the mount looks like brand

> new. I bought it from the son of the original owner who claimed his

> dad rarely used it and from all indications, he's right. (It was

> still in the original packing). Therefore, I conclude I'm making

> some stupid mistake. Anyone able to point me in the right

> direction? I can call AP tomorrow but then I'll miss the great night

> tonight. (I'll do the firmware deal then so if that's the problem

> I'll get it that way)

> Thank You!

> Bob Rickert

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#3921 Oct 28, 2001

Hi Bob,



I bought the Traveler package from the same guy! I agree that his dad did

not use these scopes/mounts very much if at all! Brand new stuff as far as I

can tell.



Anyway, about your problem:



How are you powering the mount? A 12v "wall wart" will not work. A 12v car

battery will work just fine. Rig something up as you are correct, it's a

nice clear night! I'm in Wisconsin.



A regulated power supply such as the Pyramid works great.



It definitely sounds like a power problem.



Make sure you have the site and time info set correctly.



Let me know how this works out. I should be at my computer for quite some

time in between observing the moon and planets with the new Traveler!



HTH



--

Mark Jenkins

www.bigcigarastronomy.com





on 10/28/01 8:03 PM, rgrickert@... at rgrickert@... wrote:

> Hi,

> I just purchased a used 600E and after a 10 hour round trip drive,

> I'm not able to use it on a perfectly clear night. :( My problem is

> that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a location or

> to calibrate. It becomes totally unresponsive and only a power cycle

> will reinitialize it. I'm following the manual as near as I can

> tell. It is a GOTOCP1. By any measure, the mount looks like brand

> new. I bought it from the son of the original owner who claimed his

> dad rarely used it and from all indications, he's right. (It was

> still in the original packing). Therefore, I conclude I'm making

> some stupid mistake. Anyone able to point me in the right

> direction? I can call AP tomorrow but then I'll miss the great night

> tonight. (I'll do the firmware deal then so if that's the problem

> I'll get it that way)

> Thank You!

> Bob Rickert

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







----------------------------

#3922 Oct 28, 2001

--- In ap-gto@y..., Robin Casady rcasady@c...> wrote: > Have you set up the location, time, offset from Greenwich, etc.

before > trying to use it? The it may have some setting that are causing

problems. >

Thanks. I've tried a couple of combinations including just trying

the default 0 for AP. No Joy...





> Regards,

> Robin

>

> Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

> Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

> www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html

>

> Casady & Greene, Inc.

> www.casadyg.com

>

>

>

> On 10/28/01 6:03 PM rgrickert@y... wrote:

>

> > Hi,

> > I just purchased a used 600E and after a 10 hour round trip drive,

> > I'm not able to use it on a perfectly clear night. :( My problem

is > > that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a

location or > > to calibrate. It becomes totally unresponsive and only a power

cycle > > will reinitialize it. I'm following the manual as near as I can

> > tell. It is a GOTOCP1. By any measure, the mount looks like

brand > > new. I bought it from the son of the original owner who claimed

his > > dad rarely used it and from all indications, he's right. (It was

> > still in the original packing). Therefore, I conclude I'm making

> > some stupid mistake. Anyone able to point me in the right

> > direction? I can call AP tomorrow but then I'll miss the great

night > > tonight. (I'll do the firmware deal then so if that's the problem

> > I'll get it that way)

> > Thank You!

> > Bob Rickert

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

> >



----------------------------

#3923 Oct 28, 2001

--- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote: > Hi Bob,

>

> I bought the Traveler package from the same guy! I agree that his

dad did > not use these scopes/mounts very much if at all! Brand new stuff as

far as I > can tell.

>

Mark, Glad your off to a good start! Sounds like you are as happy as

I am.





> Anyway, about your problem:

>

> How are you powering the mount? A 12v "wall wart" will not work. A

12v car > battery will work just fine. Rig something up as you are correct,

it's a > nice clear night! I'm in Wisconsin.

>

I've tried the car, a wall mount and a Kendrick battery. No go.

It's killing me to be sitting on a dream come true and twiddle my

thumbs but it may be that's my destiny for tonight.



My sister and family are in Wisconsin, where about are you?



> A regulated power supply such as the Pyramid works great.

>

> It definitely sounds like a power problem.

>

> Make sure you have the site and time info set correctly.

>

I've tried including the default, still not working...Arrrrrgh

> Let me know how this works out. I should be at my computer for

quite some > time in between observing the moon and planets with the new

Traveler! >

> HTH

>

> --

> Mark Jenkins

> www.bigcigarastronomy.com

>

>

> on 10/28/01 8:03 PM, rgrickert@y... at rgrickert@y... wrote:

>

> > Hi,

> > I just purchased a used 600E and after a 10 hour round trip drive,

> > I'm not able to use it on a perfectly clear night. :( My problem

is > > that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a

location or > > to calibrate. It becomes totally unresponsive and only a power

cycle > > will reinitialize it. I'm following the manual as near as I can

> > tell. It is a GOTOCP1. By any measure, the mount looks like

brand > > new. I bought it from the son of the original owner who claimed

his > > dad rarely used it and from all indications, he's right. (It was

> > still in the original packing). Therefore, I conclude I'm making

> > some stupid mistake. Anyone able to point me in the right

> > direction? I can call AP tomorrow but then I'll miss the great

night > > tonight. (I'll do the firmware deal then so if that's the problem

> > I'll get it that way)

> > Thank You!

> > Bob Rickert

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

> >

> >



----------------------------

#3924 Oct 28, 2001

on 10/28/01 8:38 PM, rgrickert@... at rgrickert@... wrote:

> I've tried the car, a wall mount and a Kendrick battery. No go.

> It's killing me to be sitting on a dream come true and twiddle my

> thumbs but it may be that's my destiny for tonight.



OK. Hmmm.



OH! See if the hand controller is set to the proper mount type in the setup

menu.



What else? hmm.



Are you using a dew heater on the same power supply? If so disconnect it.



hmmm.



Check all of your cables again. I say again because I'm sure you have

already done so. ;-)



It still sounds like a voltage problem to me.



One of your motors may be stalled. But that is a rare thing in such a "new"

condition mount.



Still thinking.



Try yet another battery. Am I wearing out the fact that I think it's a

voltage problem?? ;-)

>

> My sister and family are in Wisconsin, where about are you?



I live in Beloit.



Mark







----------------------------

#3925 Oct 28, 2001

--- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote: > on 10/28/01 8:38 PM, rgrickert@y... at rgrickert@y... wrote:

>

> > I've tried the car, a wall mount and a Kendrick battery. No go.

> > It's killing me to be sitting on a dream come true and twiddle my

> > thumbs but it may be that's my destiny for tonight.

>

> OK. Hmmm.

>

> OH! See if the hand controller is set to the proper mount type in

the setup > menu.

Good idea, its right ;(

>

> What else? hmm.

>

> Are you using a dew heater on the same power supply? If so

disconnect it.



No dew heater >

> hmmm.

>

> Check all of your cables again. I say again because I'm sure you

have > already done so. ;-)

>

> It still sounds like a voltage problem to me.

>

> One of your motors may be stalled. But that is a rare thing in such

a "new" > condition mount.

>

How could I determine this?

> Still thinking.

>

> Try yet another battery. Am I wearing out the fact that I think

it's a > voltage problem?? ;-)

>

> >

> > My sister and family are in Wisconsin, where about are you?

>

> I live in Beloit.

>

They're in Nina

> Mark



----------------------------

#3926 Oct 28, 2001

I just noticed something odd. When I enter the date, it locks up as

well. it looks like it wants one to many digits ie after 10/28/2001,

the cursor sits and blinks in the space after the 1 in 2001. I need

to cycle power to get it to respond after that as well.... Not good



----------------------------

#3927 Oct 28, 2001

Before you do anything try slewing the motors at 1200x. Do they both slew?



If not then you have a stalled motor and you will need to call AP tomorrow

to have them walk you through the procedure.



I'm not all that familiar with the 600. I have a 900.



Is the N/S switch set to N? Not that it should matter. just checking.



Mark



on 10/28/01 8:59 PM, rgrickert@... at rgrickert@... wrote:

> I just noticed something odd. When I enter the date, it locks up as

> well. it looks like it wants one to many digits ie after 10/28/2001,

> the cursor sits and blinks in the space after the 1 in 2001. I need

> to cycle power to get it to respond after that as well.... Not good

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>



----------------------------

#3928 Oct 28, 2001

Thanks to all for the help. I think I'll call AP in the AM









--- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote:

> on 10/28/01 8:38 PM, rgrickert@y... at rgrickert@y... wrote:

>

> > I've tried the car, a wall mount and a Kendrick battery. No go.

> > It's killing me to be sitting on a dream come true and twiddle my

> > thumbs but it may be that's my destiny for tonight.

>

> OK. Hmmm.

>

> OH! See if the hand controller is set to the proper mount type in

the setup

> menu.

>

> What else? hmm.

>

> Are you using a dew heater on the same power supply? If so

disconnect it.

>

> hmmm.

>

> Check all of your cables again. I say again because I'm sure you

have

> already done so. ;-)

>

> It still sounds like a voltage problem to me.

>

> One of your motors may be stalled. But that is a rare thing in such

a "new"

> condition mount.

>

> Still thinking.

>

> Try yet another battery. Am I wearing out the fact that I think

it's a

> voltage problem?? ;-)

>

> >

> > My sister and family are in Wisconsin, where about are you?

>

> I live in Beloit.

>

> Mark



----------------------------

#3929 Oct 28, 2001

How do I slew the motors without making it past the startup or

calibration points?



--- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote:

> Before you do anything try slewing the motors at 1200x. Do they

both slew?

>

> If not then you have a stalled motor and you will need to call AP

tomorrow

> to have them walk you through the procedure.

>

> I'm not all that familiar with the 600. I have a 900.

>

> Is the N/S switch set to N? Not that it should matter. just

checking.

>

> Mark

>

> on 10/28/01 8:59 PM, rgrickert@y... at rgrickert@y... wrote:

>

> > I just noticed something odd. When I enter the date, it locks up

as

> > well. it looks like it wants one to many digits ie after

10/28/2001,

> > the cursor sits and blinks in the space after the 1 in 2001. I

need

> > to cycle power to get it to respond after that as well.... Not

good

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

> >







----------------------------

#3930 Oct 28, 2001

The 600EGTO will function as a non-goto mount at power-up. Push the 5 key to

change the drive speed. It should start up at 64X. Two punches of the 5 and

it will be 1200. You should easily be able to tell if the motors work at

that speed.



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html



Casady & Greene, Inc.

www.casadyg.com





On 10/28/01 7:21 PM rgrickert@... wrote:



> How do I slew the motors without making it past the startup or

> calibration points?

>

>

> --- In ap-gto@y..., Mark Jenkins markj@p...> wrote:

>> Before you do anything try slewing the motors at 1200x. Do they

> both slew?

>>

>> If not then you have a stalled motor and you will need to call AP

> tomorrow

>> to have them walk you through the procedure.

>>

>> I'm not all that familiar with the 600. I have a 900.

>>

>> Is the N/S switch set to N? Not that it should matter. just

> checking.

>>

>> Mark

>>

>> on 10/28/01 8:59 PM, rgrickert@y... at rgrickert@y... wrote:

>>

>>> I just noticed something odd. When I enter the date, it locks up

> as

>>> well. it looks like it wants one to many digits ie after

> 10/28/2001,

>>> the cursor sits and blinks in the space after the 1 in 2001. I

> need

>>> to cycle power to get it to respond after that as well.... Not

> good

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>>>

>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>>>

>>>

>>>

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#3931 Oct 29, 2001

In a message dated 10/28/2001 6:03:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,

rgrickert@... writes:



> My problem is

> that the controller 'locks up' when I attempt to select a location or

> to calibrate.



The controller will "lock up" when either of the two motors will not turn.

Try slewing the motors with the buttons at 600x or 1200 x right at the strt

to see if they will turn. If they do not, then something is wrong with the

motors and the mount needs to come back here for checkout and repair.If this

is the case, Call Christine at AP and get instructions for sending the mount

in for evaluation and possible repair.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#3949 Nov 1, 2001

The backlash instructions for the 600EGTO are now posted in the

Technical Support section of the AP website. We are preparing the

instructions for other mounts as well. It will take a few days to get

them all up.



We hope these instructions help to demystify backlash adjustment.



Marj



----------------------------

#3950 Nov 2, 2001

Now that's an instruction ! ! !



What a beautiful job you did with the pictures and all. It's nice to

be able to see what's inside the mount, too. Thanks for all the

effort you put into it. Extremely well done!



Chuck

--- In ap-gto@y..., marj@a... wrote:

> The backlash instructions for the 600EGTO are now posted in the

> Technical Support section of the AP website. We are preparing the

> instructions for other mounts as well. It will take a few days to

get

> them all up.

>

> We hope these instructions help to demystify backlash adjustment.

>

> Marj



----------------------------

#3951 Nov 2, 2001

I'll second that!! I knew that little hammer would have another use -

other than hitting myself on the head with it, when I make a stupid

600E Goto slewing mistake :-) Or forget to plug the CCD in! Or

forgeting to etc. etc........



Chris. Spratt

--- In ap-gto@y..., chuck_olson@a... wrote:

> Now that's an instruction ! ! !

>

> What a beautiful job you did with the pictures and all. It's nice

to

> be able to see what's inside the mount, too. Thanks for all the

> effort you put into it. Extremely well done!

>

> Chuck

>

> --- In ap-gto@y..., marj@a... wrote:

> > The backlash instructions for the 600EGTO are now posted in the

> > Technical Support section of the AP website. We are preparing the

> > instructions for other mounts as well. It will take a few days to

> get

> > them all up.

> >

> > We hope these instructions help to demystify backlash adjustment.

> >

> > Marj



----------------------------

#3954 Nov 2, 2001

Thanks very much for placing the backlash instructions for the 600EGTO

on the AP website.



I hope a similar set of instructions will be made available on the AP

website

for the 900GTO.



All the best,

Rich







----------------------------

#3956 Nov 2, 2001

Hi Rich,



The 900GTO instructions (and others) are in the works.



Marj

--- In ap-gto@y..., "Rich N." rnapo@z...> wrote:

> Thanks very much for placing the backlash instructions for the

600EGTO

> on the AP website.

>

> I hope a similar set of instructions will be made available on the

AP

> website

> for the 900GTO.

>

> All the best,

> Rich



----------------------------

#3958 Nov 2, 2001

Hi Marj,



Outstanding! Thanks very much.



Rich



>Hi Rich,

>

>The 900GTO instructions (and others) are in the works.

>

>Marj

>

>--- In ap-gto@y..., "Rich N." rnapo@z...> wrote:

>> Thanks very much for placing the backlash instructions for the

>600EGTO

>> on the AP website.

>>

>> I hope a similar set of instructions will be made available on the

>AP

>> website

>> for the 900GTO.

>>

>> All the best,

>> Rich

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#4011 Nov 20, 2001

I would like to put my Sky 90 and FSQ-106 side by side on my

AP600EGTO. I will use the sky 90 to guide.



Would anyone know if this would fall within the mount capacity?



Andrew



----------------------------

#4012 Nov 20, 2001

Hi Andrew,



I use my Stowaway and 80mm F/11 guidescope side by

side on my 600e and it works great! Just one note,

mounting side by side may lead to some flexure on the

plate if the equipment is on the heavy side. I use a

modified DAP13 plate mounted on a DoveLM. I attached

the smaller AP dovetail plate for the short sliding

bars used on the Stowaway on one side of the DAP13,

and I have the AP 15" sliding bar mounted to the

guidescope which is thru-bolted on the other side. I

use the 15" sliding bar because I also use it with my

155EDF on 1200 mount, this allows easy swap out.



Just to let you know, I borrowed my friends new 150

TEC Mak Cass (Great Scope, love it!), and I did some

CCD'ing with it. My above setup handled it great with

the guidescope; I got excellent tracking results at

0.701 arcsec/pixel!



hope this may help you out,



Tim



--- andrewj@... wrote: > I would like to put my Sky 90 and FSQ-106 side by

> side on my

> AP600EGTO. I will use the sky 90 to guide.

>

> Would anyone know if this would fall within the

> mount capacity?

>

> Andrew

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the

> ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.

geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1



----------------------------

#4013 Nov 20, 2001

Tim,



Thanks for the reply and description. It helps a bit, but I think my

set up is more like using the 4 inch Ap with the Stowaway as a guide

a scope. Total over kill but would save me buying a guide scope if it

worked as I already have these scope on hand.



Thanks again



Andrew

--- In ap-gto@y..., Tim Khan timkhan@y...> wrote:

> Hi Andrew,

>

> I use my Stowaway and 80mm F/11 guidescope side by

> side on my 600e and it works great! Just one note,

> mounting side by side may lead to some flexure on the

> plate if the equipment is on the heavy side. I use a

> modified DAP13 plate mounted on a DoveLM. I attached

> the smaller AP dovetail plate for the short sliding

> bars used on the Stowaway on one side of the DAP13,

> and I have the AP 15" sliding bar mounted to the

> guidescope which is thru-bolted on the other side. I

> use the 15" sliding bar because I also use it with my

> 155EDF on 1200 mount, this allows easy swap out.

>

> Just to let you know, I borrowed my friends new 150

> TEC Mak Cass (Great Scope, love it!), and I did some

> CCD'ing with it. My above setup handled it great with

> the guidescope; I got excellent tracking results at

> 0.701 arcsec/pixel!

>

> hope this may help you out,

>

> Tim

>

> --- andrewj@n... wrote:

> > I would like to put my Sky 90 and FSQ-106 side by

> > side on my

> > AP600EGTO. I will use the sky 90 to guide.

> >

> > Would anyone know if this would fall within the

> > mount capacity?

> >

> > Andrew

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the

> > ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> > docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

>

>

---------------

> Do You Yahoo!?

> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just

$8.95/month.

> geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1







----------------------------

#4017 Nov 20, 2001

Hi, Tim,



I have a similar problem with mounting a Sky90 and an FS152 on an

AP900GTO. I can almost understand how you are working it, but if you

could post a photo, that would really help.



Thanks,



Chuck

--- In ap-gto@y..., Tim Khan timkhan@y...> wrote:

> Hi Andrew,

>

> I use my Stowaway and 80mm F/11 guidescope side by

> side on my 600e and it works great! Just one note,

> mounting side by side may lead to some flexure on the

> plate if the equipment is on the heavy side. I use a

> modified DAP13 plate mounted on a DoveLM. I attached

> the smaller AP dovetail plate for the short sliding

> bars used on the Stowaway on one side of the DAP13,

> and I have the AP 15" sliding bar mounted to the

> guidescope which is thru-bolted on the other side. I

> use the 15" sliding bar because I also use it with my

> 155EDF on 1200 mount, this allows easy swap out.

>

> Just to let you know, I borrowed my friends new 150

> TEC Mak Cass (Great Scope, love it!), and I did some

> CCD'ing with it. My above setup handled it great with

> the guidescope; I got excellent tracking results at

> 0.701 arcsec/pixel!

>

> hope this may help you out,

>

> Tim

>

> --- andrewj@n... wrote:

> > I would like to put my Sky 90 and FSQ-106 side by

> > side on my

> > AP600EGTO. I will use the sky 90 to guide.

> >

> > Would anyone know if this would fall within the

> > mount capacity?

> >

> > Andrew

> >

> >

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the

> > ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> > docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> >

> >

>

>

---------------

> Do You Yahoo!?

> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just

$8.95/month.

> geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1



----------------------------

#4018 Nov 20, 2001

Hello Andrew,



By talking with our mount person and taking into account that the

Sky 90 weighs 7 lbs and the FS 102 weighs 11 Lbs you should be well

within the load of the 600EGTO. You will need a side by side plate

for this setup and the closer you place the telescopes together the

better. Losmandy offers a side by side system if you are not in the

position to fabricate your own. I haven't tried this setup personally

but the 600EGTO should hold both telescopes and about 5-6 Lbs of

rings and equipment without too many problems. You will need to make

sure this setup is also properly counter weighted as well.



Good Luck,

Luke Kilpatrick

Customer Service, Astro-Physics

--- In ap-gto@y..., andrewj@n... wrote:

> Tim,

>

> Thanks for the reply and description. It helps a bit, but I think

my

> set up is more like using the 4 inch Ap with the Stowaway as a

guide

> a scope. Total over kill but would save me buying a guide scope if

it

> worked as I already have these scope on hand.

>

> Thanks again

>

> Andrew

>

> --- In ap-gto@y..., Tim Khan timkhan@y...> wrote:

> > Hi Andrew,

> >

> > I use my Stowaway and 80mm F/11 guidescope side by

> > side on my 600e and it works great! Just one note,

> > mounting side by side may lead to some flexure on the

> > plate if the equipment is on the heavy side. I use a

> > modified DAP13 plate mounted on a DoveLM. I attached

> > the smaller AP dovetail plate for the short sliding

> > bars used on the Stowaway on one side of the DAP13,

> > and I have the AP 15" sliding bar mounted to the

> > guidescope which is thru-bolted on the other side. I

> > use the 15" sliding bar because I also use it with my

> > 155EDF on 1200 mount, this allows easy swap out.

> >

> > Just to let you know, I borrowed my friends new 150

> > TEC Mak Cass (Great Scope, love it!), and I did some

> > CCD'ing with it. My above setup handled it great with

> > the guidescope; I got excellent tracking results at

> > 0.701 arcsec/pixel!

> >

> > hope this may help you out,

> >

> > Tim

> >

> > --- andrewj@n... wrote:

> > > I would like to put my Sky 90 and FSQ-106 side by

> > > side on my

> > > AP600EGTO. I will use the sky 90 to guide.

> > >

> > > Would anyone know if this would fall within the

> > > mount capacity?

> > >

> > > Andrew

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the

> > > ap-gto list

> > > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> > >

> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> > > docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> > >

> > >

> >

> >

---------------

> > Do You Yahoo!?

> > Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just

> $8.95/month.

> > geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1







----------------------------

#4019 Nov 20, 2001

Hi Chuck,



An FS-152, would be over the weight limit of the

losmandy DAP13 dovetail. The best way is to mount it

directly over scope, so you dont have balance problem.

I do this with my Stowaway and 155 EDF. The losmandy

side by side plate is still not enough for your

application unless you are strictly doing short CCD

exposures. My friend has the Side by side plate, and

it does flex when doing long exposure astrophotgraphy.



Anyways, I'll take a photo of it tonight and post it.



Cheers,



Tim



--- chuck_olson@... wrote: > Hi, Tim,

>

> I have a similar problem with mounting a Sky90 and

> an FS152 on an

> AP900GTO. I can almost understand how you are

> working it, but if you

> could post a photo, that would really help.

>

> Thanks,

>

> Chuck

>

> --- In ap-gto@y..., Tim Khan timkhan@y...> wrote:

> > Hi Andrew,

> >

> > I use my Stowaway and 80mm F/11 guidescope side by

> > side on my 600e and it works great! Just one note,

> > mounting side by side may lead to some flexure on

> the

> > plate if the equipment is on the heavy side. I use

> a

> > modified DAP13 plate mounted on a DoveLM. I

> attached

> > the smaller AP dovetail plate for the short

> sliding

> > bars used on the Stowaway on one side of the

> DAP13,

> > and I have the AP 15" sliding bar mounted to the

> > guidescope which is thru-bolted on the other side.

> I

> > use the 15" sliding bar because I also use it with

> my

> > 155EDF on 1200 mount, this allows easy swap out.

> >

> > Just to let you know, I borrowed my friends new

> 150

> > TEC Mak Cass (Great Scope, love it!), and I did

> some

> > CCD'ing with it. My above setup handled it great

> with

> > the guidescope; I got excellent tracking results

> at

> > 0.701 arcsec/pixel!

> >

> > hope this may help you out,

> >

> > Tim

> >

> > --- andrewj@n... wrote:

> > > I would like to put my Sky 90 and FSQ-106 side

> by

> > > side on my

> > > AP600EGTO. I will use the sky 90 to guide.

> > >

> > > Would anyone know if this would fall within the

> > > mount capacity?

> > >

> > > Andrew

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on

> the

> > > ap-gto list

> > > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> > >

> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> > > docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> > >

> > >

> >

> >

---------------

> > Do You Yahoo!?

> > Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site

> hosting, just

> $8.95/month.

> > geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the

> ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.

geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1



----------------------------

#4030 Nov 21, 2001

Luke,



Thanks for the info. Just to check, I beleive my FSQ-106 is closer to

15 pounds, a bit heavier than the FS 102. Would that still be

acceptable?



Andrew

--- In ap-gto@y..., killshot__@h... wrote:

> Hello Andrew,

>

> By talking with our mount person and taking into account that the

> Sky 90 weighs 7 lbs and the FS 102 weighs 11 Lbs you should be well

> within the load of the 600EGTO. You will need a side by side plate

> for this setup and the closer you place the telescopes together the

> better. Losmandy offers a side by side system if you are not in the

> position to fabricate your own. I haven't tried this setup

personally

> but the 600EGTO should hold both telescopes and about 5-6 Lbs of

> rings and equipment without too many problems. You will need to

make

> sure this setup is also properly counter weighted as well.

>

> Good Luck,

> Luke Kilpatrick

> Customer Service, Astro-Physics

>



----------------------------

#4032 Nov 21, 2001

Hi Andrew,



The problem with flat plates, such as the Losmandy's

double saddle plate, is that they are horrible for

resisting torsion. I did some quick calcs and found

that angle of twist is in the range of 40-60 arcsecs

when pointing to the zenith (using 15 lbs + 3 lbs

add'l load, 3.5" to CG). However, if the weight is

equal on both sides (as may be in your case) then the

angle of twist is equal, provided that the saddle

plate is attached to the center of the mount (really

to the DoveLM). My plate conversion using the DAP13 is

far worse, but I dont take long CCD exposures. It

becomes apparent when stacking the images, my images

drift in east-west directions and is worst at the

zenith.



Anyways, give it a try, it'll probably work out fine

in your case on the 600e. One more note: the DoveLM

hangs out more on one side than the other, which gives

one more degree of adjustment to equalize twist if the

weight is somewhat unequal.



Tim



--- andrewj@... wrote: > Luke,

>

> Thanks for the info. Just to check, I beleive my

> FSQ-106 is closer to

> 15 pounds, a bit heavier than the FS 102. Would that

> still be

> acceptable?

>

> Andrew

>

> --- In ap-gto@y..., killshot__@h... wrote:

> > Hello Andrew,

> >

> > By talking with our mount person and taking into

> account that the

> > Sky 90 weighs 7 lbs and the FS 102 weighs 11 Lbs

> you should be well

> > within the load of the 600EGTO. You will need a

> side by side plate

> > for this setup and the closer you place the

> telescopes together the

> > better. Losmandy offers a side by side system if

> you are not in the

> > position to fabricate your own. I haven't tried

> this setup

> personally

> > but the 600EGTO should hold both telescopes and

> about 5-6 Lbs of

> > rings and equipment without too many problems. You

> will need to

> make

> > sure this setup is also properly counter weighted

> as well.

> >

> > Good Luck,

> > Luke Kilpatrick

> > Customer Service, Astro-Physics

> >

>

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the

> ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>





---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.

geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1







----------------------------

#4033 Nov 21, 2001

Tim,



For now I was going to try and mount the scopes with my Takahashi

mounting plate, Tak tube rings etc. If it works I will post it. If

not I will try your suggestion and let you know.



Thanks for the advice and help.



Andrew

--- In ap-gto@y..., Tim Khan timkhan@y...> wrote:

> Hi Andrew,

>

> The problem with flat plates, such as the Losmandy's

> double saddle plate, is that they are horrible for

> resisting torsion. I did some quick calcs and found

> that angle of twist is in the range of 40-60 arcsecs

> when pointing to the zenith (using 15 lbs + 3 lbs

> add'l load, 3.5" to CG). However, if the weight is

> equal on both sides (as may be in your case) then the

> angle of twist is equal, provided that the saddle

> plate is attached to the center of the mount (really

> to the DoveLM). My plate conversion using the DAP13 is

> far worse, but I dont take long CCD exposures. It

> becomes apparent when stacking the images, my images

> drift in east-west directions and is worst at the

> zenith.

>

> Anyways, give it a try, it'll probably work out fine

> in your case on the 600e. One more note: the DoveLM

> hangs out more on one side than the other, which gives

> one more degree of adjustment to equalize twist if the

> weight is somewhat unequal.

>

> Tim

>



----------------------------

#4066 Dec 6, 2001

Hello All,

I just took possession of a brand new AP600EGTO! It looks like

a beaut! I need to assemble the rest of the 'stuff' to make it

work now. Does anyone image off of the wooden tripod (nice

adjustable legs!) or do I need the portable pier model for

imaging? Someone suggested maybe a Losmandy adjustable tripod??

Would that fit together easily with the head? Any other

suggestions? I got one about sticking a rock under one side!!

Ugly Dog

www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/



---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

greetings.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#4067 Dec 6, 2001

I use the tripod (but not extended) for my 9.25" SCT @F/5.6 and ST-7E

for astrometry work. The AP wooden tripod works reasonably well but

the pier would be better (but not as portable).



Chris. Spratt

642 (Oak Bay, Victoria)

--- In ap-gto@y..., Ugly Dog shenzistiber@y...> wrote:

> Hello All,

> I just took possession of a brand new AP600EGTO! It looks like

> a beaut! I need to assemble the rest of the 'stuff' to make it

> work now. Does anyone image off of the wooden tripod (nice

> adjustable legs!) or do I need the portable pier model for

> imaging? Someone suggested maybe a Losmandy adjustable tripod??

> Would that fit together easily with the head? Any other

> suggestions? I got one about sticking a rock under one side!!

> Ugly Dog

> www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/

>

---------------

> Do You Yahoo!?

> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

> greetings.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#4068 Dec 6, 2001

--- cspratt2001 cspratt@...> wrote: > I use the tripod (but not extended) for my 9.25" SCT @F/5.6 and

> ST-7E

> for astrometry work. The AP wooden tripod works reasonably well

> but

> the pier would be better (but not as portable).

>



Thanks for the reply Chris. You use yours unextended for a

sturdier mount?

I quess "if" level isn't important, than the lack of

adjustment is not critical??





=====

Ugly Dog

www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/astro.htm



---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

greetings.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#4069 Dec 6, 2001

Ugly Dog wrote:

> Hello All,

> I just took possession of a brand new AP600EGTO! It looks like

> a beaut! I need to assemble the rest of the 'stuff' to make it

> work now. Does anyone image off of the wooden tripod (nice

> adjustable legs!) or do I need the portable pier model for

> imaging? Someone suggested maybe a Losmandy adjustable tripod??

> Would that fit together easily with the head? Any other

> suggestions? I got one about sticking a rock under one side!!

> Ugly Dog

> www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/

>



Dear Ugly Dog,

I really like using my AP600E GoTo Mount with the Losmandy G11 tripod. It

is extremely stable and very easy to adjust when doing your Polar Alignment

routine. You will need an adapter to mount the AP top cup part with the three

screws with the handles. I bought an extra black mounting top directly from

Astro-Physics (I think that they only charged me $50-$60) and they dropped

shipped it for me directly to Losmandy. AP does have the best customer

relations of any company in the world (bar none). And Scott at Losmandy only

charged me $100 for his really beautiful adapter. Good Luck with your perfect

mount!!!

Richard Lapides in California



----------------------------

#4070 Dec 6, 2001

I use the wood tripod both extended and not. I think extending a leg

to level is just fine.



I have also imaged with my tripod extended since I use Tak

Refractor. It works just fine.



Just besure to really tighten the leg lock wing nuts. I was at pinos

for a two day trip and at mid day on the first day after a night of

imaging one of the legs slipped. Almost tipped the whole scope over.



So now I religiously tighten the wing nuts every several hours!



Mark



--- In ap-gto@y..., Ugly Dog shenzistiber@y...> wrote:

> --- cspratt2001 cspratt@i...> wrote:

> > I use the tripod (but not extended) for my 9.25" SCT @F/5.6 and

> > ST-7E

> > for astrometry work. The AP wooden tripod works reasonably well

> > but

> > the pier would be better (but not as portable).

> >

>

> Thanks for the reply Chris. You use yours unextended for a

> sturdier mount?

> I quess "if" level isn't important, than the lack of

> adjustment is not critical??

>

>

> =====

> Ugly Dog

> www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/astro.htm

>

---------------

> Do You Yahoo!?

> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

> greetings.yahoo.com







----------------------------

#4074 Dec 6, 2001

Hello Richard,

Thanks. I think I'll look into this arrangment.

Ugly Dog



--- Richard & Janis Lapides LapidesFamily@...> wrote: >

> Dear Ugly Dog,

> I really like using my AP600E GoTo Mount with the Losmandy

> G11 tripod. It

> is extremely stable and very easy to adjust when doing your

> Polar Alignment

> routine. You will need an adapter to mount the AP top cup part

> with the three

> screws with the handles. I bought an extra black mounting top

> directly from

> Astro-Physics (I think that they only charged me $50-$60) and

> they dropped

> shipped it for me directly to Losmandy. AP does have the best

> customer

> relations of any company in the world (bar none). And Scott at

> Losmandy only

> charged me $100 for his really beautiful adapter. Good Luck

> with your perfect

> mount!!!

> Richard Lapides in California

>



=====

Ugly Dog

www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/astro.htm



---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

greetings.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#4075 Dec 6, 2001

Hi Mark'

Thanks for the warning!

Ugly Dog



--- markws7m markh@...> wrote: > I use the wood tripod both extended and not. I think extending

> a leg

> to level is just fine.

>

> I have also imaged with my tripod extended since I use Tak

> Refractor. It works just fine.

>

> Just besure to really tighten the leg lock wing nuts. I was at

> pinos

> for a two day trip and at mid day on the first day after a

> night of

> imaging one of the legs slipped. Almost tipped the whole scope

> over.

>

> So now I religiously tighten the wing nuts every several hours!

>

> Mark

>





=====

Ugly Dog

www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/astro.htm



---------------

Do You Yahoo!?

Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

greetings.yahoo.com



----------------------------

#4076 Dec 6, 2001

Good Luck. Ask for Scott at Losmandy as he was very kind to make the required

adapter for me. Losmandy (Hollywood General Machining, Inc.) can be reached

at 323-462-2855.

Richard Lapides in California









Ugly Dog wrote:

> Hello Richard,

> Thanks. I think I'll look into this arrangment.

> Ugly Dog

>

> --- Richard & Janis Lapides LapidesFamily@...> wrote:

> >

> > Dear Ugly Dog,

> > I really like using my AP600E GoTo Mount with the Losmandy

> > G11 tripod. It

> > is extremely stable and very easy to adjust when doing your

> > Polar Alignment

> > routine. You will need an adapter to mount the AP top cup part

> > with the three

> > screws with the handles. I bought an extra black mounting top

> > directly from

> > Astro-Physics (I think that they only charged me $50-$60) and

> > they dropped

> > shipped it for me directly to Losmandy. AP does have the best

> > customer

> > relations of any company in the world (bar none). And Scott at

> > Losmandy only

> > charged me $100 for his really beautiful adapter. Good Luck

> > with your perfect

> > mount!!!

> > Richard Lapides in California

> >

>

> =====

> Ugly Dog

> www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/astro.htm

>

---------------

> Do You Yahoo!?

> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

> greetings.yahoo.com

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#4092 Dec 9, 2001

Could you please provide the same distance/TPI info for the 600E?

I apologize if it is already posted, I could not find it.

Thank you

Bob Rickert

--- In ap-gto@y..., chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/8/01 10:29:26 AM Central Standard Time,

ray@g...

> writes:

>

>

> On the 1200 mount, the azimuth threads are 24 TPI at a 4.5"

distance, which

> comes out to .53 degrees per turn, on the altitude axis, the

threads are 20

> TPI at about 5.7" distance, which comes out to .5 degrees per turn.

So each

> axis moves at close to 1/2 degree for each full rotation of the

knob.

>

> Roland Christen



----------------------------

#4096 Dec 9, 2001

I've had lots of fun with a 600 on the AP wooden tripod. I mostly

keep the legs retracted. I've had little problem with unguided

exposures up to 2-3 minutes and no problem with guided exposures.

Good Luck

Bob Rickert



--- In ap-gto@y..., Ugly Dog shenzistiber@y...> wrote:

> Hello All,

> I just took possession of a brand new AP600EGTO! It looks like

> a beaut! I need to assemble the rest of the 'stuff' to make it

> work now. Does anyone image off of the wooden tripod (nice

> adjustable legs!) or do I need the portable pier model for

> imaging? Someone suggested maybe a Losmandy adjustable tripod??

> Would that fit together easily with the head? Any other

> suggestions? I got one about sticking a rock under one side!!

> Ugly Dog

> www.bewellweb.com/g42016k/

>

---------------

> Do You Yahoo!?

> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!

> greetings.yahoo.com







----------------------------

#4098 Dec 10, 2001

I was wondering if anyone out there had used a Super Adaptoid plate

on an AP600EGTO (must be this exact combination - not 900GTO or Ultra

adaptoid).



If so did you have suficient Dec lock knob clearance?



Andrew



----------------------------

#4311 Feb 11 9:34 AM

Hi everybody a new member here. Just received my 600e GTO and putting a

FS-128 on it. I used it for the first time last Saturday night. I.m having

some trouble with the mount. I.m hopping someone out there has had see this

before and know what the trouble it.



After doing some viewing I turned on My ST-4 after finding a guide star and

starting the Calibrate mode on the St-4 I found that the Dec would not

respond to the ST4 The guide scope I am using is a 90mm f/5. I did not have

and trouble using it on my old G-11. Here are the settings that I started

out with. Guide rate on the 600 controller .5x.

On the St-4 I had it set to 1sec exposure, Calibration times on the ST-4 20

on RA & 20 on the DEC. The RA would move 11 points but the Dec would not

move at all. I was able to get the DEC to work but on the ST-4 I had to

change the settings to: I had to set to 1x correction, 10 on the RA, 20 on

the DEC and 20 on H2 (Hysteresis).



Please can you help? Have you seen this before and is it an easy fix. Also

one more thing is that the scope was balanced on the mount









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#4314 Feb 11 10:27 AM

In a message dated 2/11/2002 9:35:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,

strg8zn@... writes:



> Guide rate on the 600 controller .5x.

>



Don't use .5x when guiding with an autoguider. There is too much delay time

in the motor gears when reversing during calibration, unless you use a long

cal time. It is best to always use the 1x mode when calibrating.



You might want to check your dec worm backlash. Too much backlash will cause

inaccurate calibration parameters. You can easily judge the amount of

backlash by looking at a guide star with a crosshair reticle and pushing the

north-south buttons. If it takes more than 3 or 4 seconds for the star to

reverse at 1x guide rate, then you probably need to tighten up the worm mesh.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#4345 Feb 16 1:51 PM

My 2 year old 600E GOTO mount has developed a small "stalling

problem".



When fully loaded with 9.25" SCT and ST-7E CCD with focal reducer and

losmandy plate plus sliding plate counterweight the 600E sometimes

"stalls" at certain position angles. When this happens the scope is

pointing at a fairly high angle (not straight up) and near the

merdian. The yellow light comes on and the CCD images are trailed. Yet

the "Status" button indicates everything is working normally (no

statement of a "stalled motor"). I can slew to another region of the

sky and the red light pops on and the scope has not "lost" its

position (not very much anyway).



I've checked the scope's balance on the mount and it is good. The

scope slews fine and the motors don't sound any different from when I

first got the mount. I can get a 90 second unguided shot 80% of the

time and the mount is fine when not pointing at these higher angles.



I have to set the mount and scope up and take down for every observing

session.



Will lubricating the gears help? And how does one do this?



Not a big deal but inquiring minds want to know.



Chris. Spratt

642



----------------------------

#4346 Feb 16 2:25 PM

Has anything changed recently ?





cspratt2001 wrote: >

> My 2 year old 600E GOTO mount has developed a small "stalling

> problem".

>

> When fully loaded with 9.25" SCT and ST-7E CCD with focal reducer and

> losmandy plate plus sliding plate counterweight the 600E sometimes

> "stalls" at certain position angles. When this happens the scope is

> pointing at a fairly high angle (not straight up) and near the

> merdian. The yellow light comes on and the CCD images are trailed. Yet

> the "Status" button indicates everything is working normally (no

> statement of a "stalled motor"). I can slew to another region of the

> sky and the red light pops on and the scope has not "lost" its

> position (not very much anyway).

>

> I've checked the scope's balance on the mount and it is good. The

> scope slews fine and the motors don't sound any different from when I

> first got the mount. I can get a 90 second unguided shot 80% of the

> time and the mount is fine when not pointing at these higher angles.

>

> I have to set the mount and scope up and take down for every observing

> session.

>

> Will lubricating the gears help? And how does one do this?

>

> Not a big deal but inquiring minds want to know.

>

> Chris. Spratt

> 642

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







----------------------------

#4347 Feb 16 2:44 PM

The weather :-) (Second use of scope this month!!!!)

--- In ap-gto@y..., "Lawrence D. Lopez" lopez@m...> wrote:

> Has anything changed recently ?

>

>

> cspratt2001 wrote:

> >

> > My 2 year old 600E GOTO mount has developed a small "stalling

> > problem".

> >

> > When fully loaded with 9.25" SCT and ST-7E CCD with focal reducer

and

> > losmandy plate plus sliding plate counterweight the 600E sometimes

> > "stalls" at certain position angles. When this happens the scope

is

> > pointing at a fairly high angle (not straight up) and near the

> > merdian. The yellow light comes on and the CCD images are trailed.

Yet

> > the "Status" button indicates everything is working normally (no

> > statement of a "stalled motor"). I can slew to another region of

the

> > sky and the red light pops on and the scope has not "lost" its

> > position (not very much anyway).

> >

> > I've checked the scope's balance on the mount and it is good. The

> > scope slews fine and the motors don't sound any different from

when I

> > first got the mount. I can get a 90 second unguided shot 80% of

the

> > time and the mount is fine when not pointing at these higher

angles.

> >

> > I have to set the mount and scope up and take down for every

observing

> > session.

> >

> > Will lubricating the gears help? And how does one do this?

> >

> > Not a big deal but inquiring minds want to know.

> >

> > Chris. Spratt

> > 642

> >

> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >

> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



----------------------------

#4360 Feb 18 10:04 AM

In a message dated 2/16/2002 1:58:55 PM Pacific Standard Time,

cspratt@... writes:



> When fully loaded with 9.25" SCT and ST-7E CCD with focal reducer and

> losmandy plate plus sliding plate counterweight the 600E sometimes

> "stalls" at certain position angles



The RA motor has a built-in current limit circuit to prevent motor winding

burnout. The current is limited to approx. 1 amp, and when that is exceeded,

the servo drive will shut that motor off. Position error will not be lost,

but tracking will cease. The primary cause is too much load on the motor,

which can be the result of overtightening the worm mesh, aggravated by

excessive weight on the mount. Try backing off the RA worm mesh a tiny bit to

see if that clears up the problem. Don't worry about a tiny bit of backlash

in RA, since this does not in any way affect the tracking or guiding accuracy

of the mount.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#5627 Sep 6, 2002

Hoping someone can help!



I just bought this setup and here is a 30 sec image when using the

relay cable from the ST8 to the 600e. I am using a straight through

6 pic telco cable.



photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-

gto/vwp?.dir=/&.src=gr&.dnm=IMAGER8.jpg&.view=t&.done= ---Links-Are-Forbidden--- you can see I am getting long star stars. The B = 1.0 which I

think is correct. Funny thing is I haven't even selected the

autoguide from CCDSoft, it just starts moving on its own. Personally

I think I have a bad cable. When I unhook the autoguider I can image

for over a minute without any trails. Any help is greatly

appreciated!



Chris



----------------------------

#5628 Sep 6, 2002

Chris,



You have the wrong or a bad cable.



Call SBIG, they will send you the correct cable.



I know one type of telco cable will work but I'm not sure which one. I

am not at the observatory but I think you need the one with one twist

in it.



Roland knows for sure.



HTH



Mark

On Saturday, September 7, 2002, at 12:06 AM, chrishet55 wrote:



> Hoping someone can help!

>

> I just bought this setup and here is a 30 sec image when using the

> relay cable from the ST8 to the 600e. I am using a straight through

> 6 pic telco cable.

>

> photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-

> gto/vwp?.dir=/&.src=gr&.dnm=IMAGER8.jpg&.view=t&.done= ---Links-Are-Forbidden--- 3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src=gr%

> 26.view=t

>

> As you can see I am getting long star stars. The B = 1.0 which I

> think is correct. Funny thing is I haven't even selected the

> autoguide from CCDSoft, it just starts moving on its own. Personally

> I think I have a bad cable. When I unhook the autoguider I can image

> for over a minute without any trails. Any help is greatly

> appreciated!

>

> Chris

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

> docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>

>







----------------------------

#5631 Sep 7, 2002

In a message dated 9/7/2002 12:07:22 AM Central Daylight Time,

chrishet55@... writes:



> As you can see I am getting long star stars. The B = 1.0 which I

> think is correct. Funny thing is I haven't even selected the

> autoguide from CCDSoft, it just starts moving on its own



If you have not selected guiding and the mount moves, then there may be

either an incorrect cable (wires reversed from normal) or one of the relays

in the camera is stuck closed. If the mount does NOT move when the cable is

attached but starts to move when you power up the CCDSoft, I would suspect

some kind of software bug. Then I would suggest going back to CCDOPS to

troubleshoot the system. This basic program will work when everything else

fails.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#6218 Dec 9, 2002

Hi,

Just recently, my 600 has been misbehaving. What happens is that it

seems to get stuck tracking east when I push the north or east

buttons. If I push west, it starts going normally again. At the

same time, it seems to be trying to reboot itself for no reason.

This happens with either the hand controller or when my camera tries

to guide.

Anything obvious come to mind?

Bob Rickert



----------------------------

#6616 Feb 4 2:41 PM

I am looking to make several extension cables:



1) a extension cable to go between my AP600 Goto mount and the

control box GTOCP1, approx 8 feet.



2) an extension cable for the Keypad, approx 3 feet.





Anyone out there know the pinouts and cable specs? Part numbers for

the DIN connectors would also be helpful.



BTW, this a part of a larger project to make a wiring harness to

bundle all my cables, SBIG Camera (power, autoguider, USB),

Robofocus, Kendrick Heaters and AP Control. All these cables will be

bundled using braided sleaving and all the power supplies/control

boxes/Laptop will be housed in a Pelican Case.



I'll be putting pics on my website once completed.



Thanks,

Chris

hetlage.com



----------------------------

#6617 Feb 4 3:37 PM

I am looking to make several extension cables:

>

>1) a extension cable to go between my AP600 Goto mount and the

>control box GTOCP1, approx 8 feet.

>

>2) an extension cable for the Keypad, approx 3 feet.

>

>

>Anyone out there know the pinouts and cable specs? Part numbers for

>the DIN connectors would also be helpful.

>

>BTW, this a part of a larger project to make a wiring harness to

>bundle all my cables, SBIG Camera (power, autoguider, USB),

>Robofocus, Kendrick Heaters and AP Control. All these cables will be

>bundled using braided sleaving and all the power supplies/control

>boxes/Laptop will be housed in a Pelican Case.

>

>I'll be putting pics on my website once completed.

>

>Thanks,

>Chris

>hetlage.com

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



If you have the USB Version of the SBIG Camera you can put all things

together in one box and xonnect this with a icron adapter via one

Ethernet cable to your computer. With the wight programs you do not

need the keypad. Only for the setup of the mount. The icron adapter I

use has on the side of the mount four places to put usb cables in.

You can use USB to Serial adapters to connect the mounts tow serials

and one I use for my Robofocus interface. so I can handle all

equipment over one cable up to 100 meters. ( I use 20 m and all went

fine). In the case I have the two power supplies one for the SBIG

Camera and one for 12V for the mount, Kendric Heater and Robofocus,

the icron interface, one kensington USB to serial with 4 adapters and

the Robofocus interface. For putting all things together I replace

the Interface from the mount and put it with all the cables in the

Box.



Greetings



Konstantin

--

---------------

Konstantin v. Poschinger

Hammerichstr. 5

22605 Hamburg

Germany

Tel. (040) 880 57 47

Fax. (040) 881 22 79

E-Mail: KPoschinger@...

---------------



----------------------------

#6618 Feb 4 6:02 PM

I am looking to make several extension cables:

>

> 1) a extension cable to go between my AP600 Goto mount and the

> control box GTOCP1, approx 8 feet.



Can't help you specifically here.. though thee connectors used

here would appear to be the same family as is used for the keypad.

See below.

> 2) an extension cable for the Keypad, approx 3 feet.



I can help you with this. I built a 15 foot long (or so) extension

for my keypad. The connectors you need to do this can be ordered

from Digi-Key. They are 5 pin connectors, even though the keypad

only appears to use 4 of them. What you need are:



HR326-ND - 5 pin cable-mount socket $9.62

www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=33802&Row=153454

photo: rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Hirose/Web%20Photo/RM12BJB-5S(07).jpg



HR888-ND - 5 pin cable-mount plug $8.68

www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=33802&Row=250316

photo: rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Hirose/Web%20Photo/RM12BPE-5PH.jpg



These are Hirose Electronic Co. Ltd connectors, and there are quite

a few variations. On the Digi-Key web site, you can search for and

probably find the other series connectors used on the servo

controller.



Note that you'll also need a really, really small, tiny allen wrench

key to loosen the set-screw on the connector shell.



If I recall correctly, the keypad uses pins 1,2,4,5 on the connector, but

PLEASE VERIFY THIS TO BE SURE! I loosened the connector shell on the

keypad cable plug to verify this.

> Anyone out there know the pinouts and cable specs? Part numbers for

> the DIN connectors would also be helpful.



Hope this helps.

> BTW, this a part of a larger project to make a wiring harness to

> bundle all my cables, SBIG Camera (power, autoguider, USB),

> Robofocus, Kendrick Heaters and AP Control. All these cables will be

> bundled using braided sleaving and all the power supplies/control

> boxes/Laptop will be housed in a Pelican Case.



I did this, too, and it makes a big difference when setting up in

the field. Having one larger cable bundle makes it much less likely

to stumble over some random cable in the dark. It also makes quite

the impression at a star party; almost looks like you know what

you're doing :-)

> I'll be putting pics on my website once completed.



See www.transsys.com/louie/astro/ccd/cables/ for too many photos

of my arrangement in the backyard. These photos are old, and do not

include the keypad extension cable that I just built last month. The

last photo sort of shows the setup at a star party, with the 900GTO

mount on the portable pier, and the cable bundled tied to one of the

tension rods, which seems to work very well. (Sorry for the broken

thumbnail..)



louie







----------------------------

#6620 Feb 4 9:22 PM

Excellent Louis! Nice job on the cables.

>

> What kind of wire did you use for your Keypad extension?



I used some 4-conductor control cable I had lying around. It's

actually two twisted pair, #18AWG stranded per conductor. It is

almost certainly overkill, but it's mechanically robust enough

with stranded conductors (rather than solid) to hold up.



If I got the pairing of the conductors "right", it was purely by

accident. I didn't want to open the keypad to see what was power

and what was serial data, so I just made a guess.



louie



----------------------------

#6631 Feb 11 10:11 AM

FYI to the group: I was contacted by Christine at AP and they have

an 8 foot cable available to go between the controller and the

mount. They are selling these for $65 which is kind of high but they

have been tested and work fine. I've ordered one and will report

back as to my progress on this project.





--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Louis A. Mamakos" louie@T...> wrote:

> > Excellent Louis! Nice job on the cables.

> >

> > What kind of wire did you use for your Keypad extension?

>

> I used some 4-conductor control cable I had lying around. It's

> actually two twisted pair, #18AWG stranded per conductor. It is

> almost certainly overkill, but it's mechanically robust enough

> with stranded conductors (rather than solid) to hold up.

>

> If I got the pairing of the conductors "right", it was purely by

> accident. I didn't want to open the keypad to see what was power

> and what was serial data, so I just made a guess.

>

> louie



----------------------------

#6967 Mar 17, 2003

I currently have an AP130 f6 (love it, won't sell it!) on an AP600e

mount and want to add a second scope of more aperture and longer fl.

This is mainly for planetary imaging and imaging DSO's that require a

longer fl. I am considering an SCT (C9.25?), a Mak-Newt (concerned

about backfocus), or a Mak-Cass. I want to be sure that my mount can

handle the weight to include my ST8XE.



Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



Chris



----------------------------

#6977 Mar 17, 2003

I used to have a 600EGTO. I used a Takahashi TSC 225 (SCT of just under 9")

and it handled that fine. I wouldn't go any larger.



For planetary imaging, an f/15 to f/20 Maksutov-Cassegrain around 8" should

be a good choice. If you can find a 7" that would be very stable. A 6"

Maksutov-Cassegrain would be like a tank. Dobsonians would be blowing away

before the wind could disturb it.



A Maksutov-Newt of 6" to 8" might be another good choice. Make sure you can

make adjustments required for imaging. I believe Peter Ceravolo made

different models of his Mak-Newts for imaging and visual. I don't know about

the Russian Maksutov-Newtonians.



The disadvantage of the commercial SCTs for planetary imaging is that they

have a fairly large central obstruction. This reduces contrast and can

eliminate some low contrast detail on Jupiter.



Regards,

Robin



Astro Accessories by Robin Casady

Stainless Steel Weights & Dovetail Saddles

www.CarmelCoast.com/Astro/sales.html





On 03/17/03 2:01 PM chrishet55 wrote:



> I currently have an AP130 f6 (love it, won't sell it!) on an AP600e

> mount and want to add a second scope of more aperture and longer fl.

> This is mainly for planetary imaging and imaging DSO's that require a

> longer fl. I am considering an SCT (C9.25?), a Mak-Newt (concerned

> about backfocus), or a Mak-Cass. I want to be sure that my mount can

> handle the weight to include my ST8XE.

>

> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

>

> Chris

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>

>



----------------------------

#8210 Aug 3, 2003

Just took delivery on a ScopeGuard case. It's a fine piece of work

but unfortunately its outside dimensions are too large for my

vehicle. There is insufficient room for the case to lie alongside

the telescope case. I blame only myself for not specifying that the

case must be as small as possible in its external dimensions. It's

perfect for someone else but not for me. Does anyone want a

fantastic deal on this really fine product? It has casters, a

telescoping handle, side handles, and two lock latches. Photo

attachment is available.



Mike Roth



----------------------------

#8412 Aug 27, 2003

I recently purchased an AP 600e GTO second hand and have been

enjoying showing my wife, daughter and friends Mars through my 130.

I am really impressed with the mount and the scope; however, I can't

seem to iron out a little problem. Here is what happens: the

firmware will occasionally restart, as I am re-calibrating through

the polar alignment routine or scrolling through the object

database. This happened last night when I was using Altair to

calibrate and pressing the directional buttons on the keypad to

center the star in my EP. While the re-start interrupts my re-

calibration, it retains the previous calibration. My 34-amp deep

cycle marine battery was a little low last night, but the same

problem occurred the previous night when it was fully charged.

Neither the GTO controller nor the keypad indicated low power and

all cables were secured. The cord going into the keypad is a little

frayed but the previous owner reinforced it some electrical tape. I

have tried to jiggle the cord to this if this could be the problem,

but the firmware has never restarted when doing this. Has anyone

else had this problem? Your help is kindly appreciated.



Bill Wolff

Folsom, CA







----------------------------

#8413 Aug 27, 2003

In a message dated 8/27/2003 11:16:52 AM Central Daylight Time,

wlw4@... writes:



> Here is what happens: the

> firmware will occasionally restart, as I am re-calibrating through

> the polar alignment routine or scrolling through the object

> database



If the keypad is resetting (you hear a click), then it is possible that the

connector pins inside the keypad need to be cleaned, or the connector is not

fully seated. Also, it is possible that the connection of the 12 volt power wire

on the servo box is not fully tight. In that case, spread the tines slightly

on the center pin of the 12 volt connector on the servobox, then re-attach the

power cable and screw the outer part firmly in place. A loose connection on

the 12 volt line will cause resetting of the keypad. If nothing works, we can

check the keypad here, but chances are that the keypad will work wonderfully

fine for us for days, because we normally have all our connections properly

tight.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#8414 Aug 27, 2003

Dear Bill,



We recently posted a technical support document to our website dealing with keypad resetting. It has specific suggestions that you can try: www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/resetting.pdf



Clear skies,

Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc.

11250 Forest Hills Road

Rockford, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

Please include this e-mail with your response.



>-----Original Message-----

>From: Wm Wolff [mailto:wlw4@...]

>Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 11:11 AM

>To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

>Subject: [ap-gto] AP 600e GTO Firmware intermittently Re-starting

>

>

>I recently purchased an AP 600e GTO second hand and have been

>enjoying showing my wife, daughter and friends Mars through my 130.

>I am really impressed with the mount and the scope; however, I can't

>seem to iron out a little problem. Here is what happens: the

>firmware will occasionally restart, as I am re-calibrating through

>the polar alignment routine or scrolling through the object

>database. This happened last night when I was using Altair to

>calibrate and pressing the directional buttons on the keypad to

>center the star in my EP. While the re-start interrupts my re-

>calibration, it retains the previous calibration. My 34-amp deep

>cycle marine battery was a little low last night, but the same

>problem occurred the previous night when it was fully charged.

>Neither the GTO controller nor the keypad indicated low power and

>all cables were secured. The cord going into the keypad is a little

>frayed but the previous owner reinforced it some electrical tape. I

>have tried to jiggle the cord to this if this could be the problem,

>but the firmware has never restarted when doing this. Has anyone

>else had this problem? Your help is kindly appreciated.

>

>Bill Wolff

>Folsom, CA

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>

>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

>docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

>



----------------------------

#8415 Aug 27, 2003

Thanks Roland and Marj! I will troubleshoot based on your

suggestions. It may indeed be a problem with vicissitudes in the

voltage output from my battery, but I will check the power cord to

the control box as well and let you know.



Regards,



Bill Wolff



----------------------------

#8953 Oct 16, 2003

In a message dated 10/16/2003 12:14:28 AM Central Daylight Time,

chrishet55@... writes:



> It doesn't continue when I

> run at .25x, .5x or 1x which makes be feel like it is SW related (if

> it is worm mesh why wouldn't the mount continue to move after a W-E

> at 1x?),



At .25, to 1x the motor simply slows down. It never reverses. At 12x and 64x,

the motor has to reverse. This unwinds the geartrain on the motor. Then when

you release the button, the geartrain has to take up the slack at only 1x.

Adding backlash compensation via the keypad in the Setup Menu gives the motor an

initial kick at 64 X for a very short time to help the motor geartrain reverse

and take up the slack. If you have the keypad set for either 900 mount or

1200 mount, the "kick" is very much shorter than if you have it set on 600 mount,

so check this setting on the keypad. You should be able to compensate for any

backlash by dialing in a 2 or 3 setting. Take a look through the spur gear

window on the side of the mount where the motor spur gear meshes with the worm

spur. With different settings of RA backlash, you will see the gears move more

and more quickly in the opposite direction when you let go of the E button.



If the worm is well in mesh, then the backlash delay is not coming from that

part of the mechanical gear train. It could very well be that the worm is in

mesh, but the spur gears are not. You can see whether they are in mesh through

the sight window. If they appear to be in mesh and they move quickly with some

backlash compensation dialed in, yet the stars still drift, then you may have

a loose setscrew on the spur gear on the end of the worm. To check that, you

will have to back off the worm housing and look underneath where you can see

the worm and spur gear. If the set screw has backed off, the spur gear will be

loose on the worm shaft and will rotate some distance before transmitting its

rotation to the worm. When you tighten this set screw you have to make sure

that you tighten it on the flat part of the shaft, otherwise it will not stay

put when the motor starts rotating the gear.



If you have any questions, please give Walter a call here at AP and he can

take you through the steps to check out your mount.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#8955 Oct 16, 2003

In a message dated 10/16/2003 3:22:39 AM Central Daylight Time,

Catterall@... writes:



> This doesn't sound like a backlash problem, but for some reason the

> motors continue to move the mount after releasing the East button



No, the motors do not move. The earth rotates, which makes the stars look

like they are moving in the eyepiece. This seemingly unnatural motion is quite

natural until the motor has fully engaged the worm gear and is finally driving

the mount again at the sidereal rate toward the west.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#8958 Oct 16, 2003

Thanks Roland!



----------------------------

#8963 Oct 16, 2003

In message b0.3fd8cc8e.2cbfecb5@...>, chris1011@... writes >No, the motors do not move. The earth rotates, which makes the stars

>look like they are moving in the eyepiece. This seemingly unnatural

>motion is quite natural until the motor has fully engaged the worm gear

>and is finally driving the mount again at the sidereal rate toward the

>west.

>

>Roland Christen



I understand that, but in my case pressing the East button and then

releasing it, allows the star to continue moving in an eastern

direction. If the motors were not engaged, then the star should move

west, hence if the star is moving east, the motors must be engaged and

continue to operate even when no button is pressed.



The problem I have is that this is an intermittent fault and when I used

another handset, seemed to resolve the issue.



Adrian





--

Adrian Catterall

Amateur Astronomer

Hertfordshire UK

www.observatory.demon.co.uk/



----------------------------

#8964 Oct 16, 2003

In a message dated 10/16/2003 4:40:49 PM Central Daylight Time,

Catterall@... writes:



> The problem I have is that this is an intermittent fault and when I used

> another handset, seemed to resolve the issue.

>



That may be, but the poster has a different problem and it would just add to

the confusion if you add your problem to his. I doubt that his motors continue

to run. Yours is the singular occurance of this phenomenon where the motors

actually continue to run after the button is released.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#8965 Oct 16, 2003

Update: and clarification...seems my brain doesn't work so well late

at night, especially during a baseball game! I worded my question as

if the motors were running after I let go of the East button. Today,

during daylight, I tested my backlash adjustments on a fixed object,

my neighbors gutter. Indeed it is not that the motor continues to

run but rather the RA doesn't catch up for a number of seconds, in my

case 8-11secs, after the button is released. This appears during the

night sky as a star drifting. My bad...



Now back to my backlash adjustment. I took your advice Roland and

called Walter. He walked me through your suggestions and a few

more. When I look through the site hole the spur gears appear well

meshed. I observed them and they look to be moving properly. They

engage immediately when I press the E or W keys and the RA starts up

with 2 seconds of releasing the E key. However I am still seeing a

delay of 8-11 seconds after releasing the E key which lead me to

believe there was something after the spur gears causing the problem.



I decided to take your advice and check the lower spur gear (the one

attached to the worm) To get to it I had to completely remove the RA

housing (?) from the mount housing. This wasn't too difficult but

beware the clutch has a small piece that can drop out so set your Alt

straight up if possible.



Once I got the RA housing off I removed the 2 flat head screws and

pulled the gear and setting circles away from the worm. This was

VERY difficult as it was quite stiff but I worked it back and forth

and finally got it off. Once I had access to the worm I checked the

spur gear set screw and it was fine. There also appeared no play

between the worm and the bearings. All seems to be perfect.



I reassembled and re-adjusted the worm. I've must have made 100

minor adjustments and no luck thus far (I'll keep trying). Most of

the time it takes 8-11 seconds, after the button is release, to re-

engage the RA. Occasionally is starts back up after only a few

seconds but goes back to 8-11 on the next test. I've tested every

setting on the RA backlash and tried different mount types as you

suggested.



It doesn't appear that the RA Backlash settings are doing anything.

Should I report this to the 4.05 Beta board? I've adjusted the worm

to the point of binding and it stills appears to have backlash. How

can this be? :o. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.



Heading to the Peach State Star Gaze on Wednesday so I still have

time....



Regards

Chris



----------------------------

#8966 Oct 17, 2003

In a message dated 10/17/2003 12:27:09 AM Central Daylight Time,

chrishet55@... writes:



> It doesn't appear that the RA Backlash settings are doing anything.

> Should I report this to the 4.05 Beta board?



You can try different amounts of RA backlash settings and look into the sight

hole to see the action. Again, make sure that your keypad is set to 600

mount. I'm sure the software is fine. If the problem cannot be resolved there, then

I would suggets that you send the mount in to have it checked here.



Roland Christen.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#8975 Oct 19, 2003

I got the backlash finally adjusted with good results. I think my

problem was trying to adjust only one side of the worm and this

caused a situation where the worm wasn't properly aligned with the

gear. After playing with both sides I got it real close. My RA

Backlash setting is 6 but it works very good now.



I was concerned about autoguiding after all the adjustments and

breakdown so I went out last night to test things out. I was

pleasantly surprised. I calibrated on the first try and my errors

were under .3 all night. I wasn't planning on imaging but since

things were working so well snapped this one.



www.hetlage.com/images/pelican_101803_med.jpg



Pelican Nebula

AP130 @ f4.5

AP600eGTO

SBIG ST8XE

Schuler 10nm Ha Filter

3 hrs - 15min x 12 exposures



Thanks Roland and Walter for the great support,

Chris



----------------------------

#8976 Oct 19, 2003

Glad you got your mount "fine tuned"...the image is stunning!!



Randy Nulman



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hetlage" chrishet55@y...>

wrote: > I got the backlash finally adjusted with good results. I think my

> problem was trying to adjust only one side of the worm and this

> caused a situation where the worm wasn't properly aligned with the

> gear. After playing with both sides I got it real close. My RA

> Backlash setting is 6 but it works very good now.

>

> I was concerned about autoguiding after all the adjustments and

> breakdown so I went out last night to test things out. I was

> pleasantly surprised. I calibrated on the first try and my errors

> were under .3 all night. I wasn't planning on imaging but since

> things were working so well snapped this one.

>

> www.hetlage.com/images/pelican_101803_med.jpg

>

> Pelican Nebula

> AP130 @ f4.5

> AP600eGTO

> SBIG ST8XE

> Schuler 10nm Ha Filter

> 3 hrs - 15min x 12 exposures

>

> Thanks Roland and Walter for the great support,

> Chris



----------------------------

#8977 Oct 20, 2003

In a message dated 10/19/2003 12:57:53 PM Central Daylight Time,

chrishet55@... writes:



>

> www.hetlage.com/images/pelican_101803_med.jpg

>

> Pelican Nebula

> AP130 @ f4.5

> AP600eGTO

> SBIG ST8XE

> Schuler 10nm Ha Filter

> 3 hrs - 15min x 12 exposures

>



Hey, very nice. Excellent resolution. Glad to see you have it working.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#9179 Dec 1, 2003

Does anyone have any information on the 600E motor upgrade?



Define the improvements, cost, chip, etc.



Thanks



----------------------------

#9233 Dec 11, 2003

Hello



I've been trying to find out if I can use a Meade Pictor 216XT as

an autoguider on my AP600E GTO. Can I just plug it into the

autoguider female plug on the control box? Or does it require a

relay box? Has anyone ever tried this combination? Meade says they

never tried it on an AP mount. Wally says he doesn't know.

Ugly Dog



----------------------------

#9234 Dec 11, 2003

In a message dated 12/11/2003 7:39:16 AM Central Standard Time,

shenzistiber@... writes:



> I've been trying to find out if I can use a Meade Pictor 216XT as

> an autoguider on my AP600E GTO. Can I just plug it into the

> autoguider female plug on the control box? Or does it require a

> relay box? Has anyone ever tried this combination? Meade says they

> never tried it on an AP mount.



Can Meade give you a pinout of the autoguider cable? Does the 216XT draw

power from the mount or does it have its own internal battery?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#9238 Dec 11, 2003

Thanks Roland,

Here is the best I found (about a 1/3 of the way down the page):

www.meade.com/manuals/pictor/picapp.html

It has a 12v DC power cord.

Ugly Dog

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 12/11/2003 7:39:16 AM Central Standard Time,

> shenzistiber@y... writes:

>

>

> > I've been trying to find out if I can use a Meade Pictor 216XT as

> > an autoguider on my AP600E GTO. Can I just plug it into the

> > autoguider female plug on the control box? Or does it require a

> > relay box? Has anyone ever tried this combination? Meade says they

> > never tried it on an AP mount.

>

> Can Meade give you a pinout of the autoguider cable? Does the 216XT

draw

> power from the mount or does it have its own internal battery?

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#9239 Dec 11, 2003

Forgot to say, the cable has the last(or first?)wire (blue) cut off

on both ends so it is only 5 strands instead of six.

Ugly Dog

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Ugly Dog" shenzistiber@y...> wrote:

> Thanks Roland,

> Here is the best I found (about a 1/3 of the way down the

page):

> www.meade.com/manuals/pictor/picapp.html

> It has a 12v DC power cord.

> Ugly Dog

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> > In a message dated 12/11/2003 7:39:16 AM Central Standard Time,

> > shenzistiber@y... writes:

> >

> >

> > > I've been trying to find out if I can use a Meade Pictor 216XT

as

> > > an autoguider on my AP600E GTO. Can I just plug it into the

> > > autoguider female plug on the control box? Or does it require a

> > > relay box? Has anyone ever tried this combination? Meade says

they

> > > never tried it on an AP mount.

> >

> > Can Meade give you a pinout of the autoguider cable? Does the

216XT

> draw

> > power from the mount or does it have its own internal battery?

> >

> > Roland Christen

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#9241 Dec 12, 2003

In a message dated 12/11/2003 11:28:49 PM Central Standard Time,

shenzistiber@... writes:



> Here is the best I found (about a 1/3 of the way down the page):

> www.meade.com/manuals/pictor/picapp.html

> It has a 12v DC power cord.

>



This should work. Try it.

The cut wire is the 5 volt supply which is not used in our system.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#9242 Dec 12, 2003

Thank you!, Roland. I'll let you know if it works and I'll let the

service dept. know if it doesn't! :~))

Ugly Dog

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 12/11/2003 11:28:49 PM Central Standard Time,

> shenzistiber@y... writes:

>

>

> > Here is the best I found (about a 1/3 of the way down the page):

> > www.meade.com/manuals/pictor/picapp.html

> > It has a 12v DC power cord.

> >

>

> This should work. Try it.

> The cut wire is the 5 volt supply which is not used in our system.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#9855 Mar 30, 2004

I'm making a permanent pier for my 600E mount and wondered if dimensions and

screw hole placement information for the base is available like posted on

the AP web site for the 900 and 1200 mounts?



----------------------------

#10078 Jun 7, 2004

I can put a C11 with the following (JMI NGFS, Optec Filter slide, 2"

diag, and 7x50 finder scope) with no visable problems. Can I mount a

C14 on it with the same equipment?



thanks



----------------------------

#10079 Jun 7, 2004

In a message dated 6/7/2004 2:53:41 PM Central Daylight Time,

scuba100@... writes:



> Can I mount a

> C14 on it with the same equipment?

>



NO! You are asking for problems.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10080 Jun 7, 2004

Peter,



Better not, you can give me the mount though. You know where I am just

drive it on over and make room for the Ap900 mount you will need

Peter, my friend uses about what you say on a G-11 and he is selling it this

week to get a larger mount since he is tired of the small mount



Mark

----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Haviland" scuba100@...>

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 3:51 PM

Subject: [ap-gto] How big a scope can a AP600EGTO hold?





> I can put a C11 with the following (JMI NGFS, Optec Filter slide, 2"

> diag, and 7x50 finder scope) with no visable problems. Can I mount a

> C14 on it with the same equipment?

>

> thanks

>

>

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#10081 Jun 7, 2004

Dear Roland:



I have somewhat the same issue re using an AP600EGTO

with the 155 F7 and a ccd camera on the wooden tripod for purposeful

imaging in the field, or is this combination marginal for that purpose, or

even for observing?



Thank you.



Jon L. Williams





At 04:08 PM 6/7/04 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 6/7/2004 2:53:41 PM Central Daylight Time,

>scuba100@... writes:

>

>

> > Can I mount a

> > C14 on it with the same equipment?

> >

>

>NO! You are asking for problems.

>

>Roland Christen

>

>

>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#10083 Jun 7, 2004

In a message dated 6/7/2004 4:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time,

bengoshi@... writes:



> I have somewhat the same issue re using an AP600EGTO

> with the 155 F7 and a ccd camera on the wooden tripod for purposeful

> imaging in the field, or is this combination marginal for that purpose



You are cutting it close for imaging.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10087 Jun 7, 2004

Roland,



Is it Ok using a C11 on the mount?



Thanks



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 6/7/2004 2:53:41 PM Central Daylight Time,

> scuba100@e... writes:

>

>

> > Can I mount a

> > C14 on it with the same equipment?

> >

>

> NO! You are asking for problems.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10089 Jun 7, 2004

I used a Takahashi TSC 225 (8.86" f/12 SCT) on a 600EGTO and I wouldn't

want to go any larger. However, I wouldn't be happy with a C14 on a

G-11 and some people are.



Regards,

Robin

Astro Accessories from RobinCasady.com

www.robincasady.com/Astro

On Monday, June 7, 2004, at 08:42 PM, Peter Haviland wrote:



> Roland,

>

> Is it Ok using a C11 on the mount?

>

> Thanks

>







----------------------------

#10091 Jun 8, 2004

Thank you, Roland.





At 06:48 PM 6/7/04 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 6/7/2004 4:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time,

>bengoshi@... writes:

>

>

> > I have somewhat the same issue re using an AP600EGTO

> > with the 155 F7 and a ccd camera on the wooden tripod for purposeful

> > imaging in the field, or is this combination marginal for that purpose

>

>You are cutting it close for imaging.

>

>Roland Christen

>

>

>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#10093 Jun 8, 2004

As an ower of the 600goto I found it to be borderline with a 6 f/7 EDF for anything other than observing. To improve stability, the mount is mated to a Losmandy tripod. Short tubes will work best with this highly portable mount. RA tracking accuracy of my mount is superb.



- jg



-----Original Message-----

From: Jon L Williams bengoshi@...>

Sent: Jun 8, 2004 7:27 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] How big a scope can a AP600EGTO hold?



Thank you, Roland.





At 06:48 PM 6/7/04 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 6/7/2004 4:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time,

>bengoshi@... writes:

>

>

> > I have somewhat the same issue re using an AP600EGTO

> > with the 155 F7 and a ccd camera on the wooden tripod for purposeful

> > imaging in the field, or is this combination marginal for that purpose

>

>You are cutting it close for imaging.

>

>Roland Christen

>

>

>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>







To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

Yahoo! Groups Links



----------------------------

#10095 Jun 8, 2004

Thanks for your input. Short of using a 900 in the field, it appears that

perhaps I can get away with the 600 in this configuration if I go to a more

stable short pier to obviate the stability issue. OTH, I do have a

Traveler and

perhaps I should just simply make that my exclusive field scope for imaging.



Thanks,



Jon





At 07:49 AM 6/8/04 -0700, you wrote: >As an ower of the 600goto I found it to be borderline with a 6 f/7 EDF for

>anything other than observing. To improve stability, the mount is mated

>to a Losmandy tripod. Short tubes will work best with this highly

>portable mount. RA tracking accuracy of my mount is superb.

>

>- jg

>

>-----Original Message-----

>From: Jon L Williams bengoshi@...>

>Sent: Jun 8, 2004 7:27 AM

>To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

>Subject: Re: [ap-gto] How big a scope can a AP600EGTO hold?

>

>Thank you, Roland.

>

>

>At 06:48 PM 6/7/04 -0400, you wrote:

> >In a message dated 6/7/2004 4:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time,

> >bengoshi@... writes:

> >

> >

> > > I have somewhat the same issue re using an AP600EGTO

> > > with the 155 F7 and a ccd camera on the wooden tripod for purposeful

> > > imaging in the field, or is this combination marginal for that purpose

> >

> >You are cutting it close for imaging.

> >

> >Roland Christen

> >

> >

> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

> >

> >

> >To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>



----------------------------

#10097 Jun 8, 2004

I use a C9.25 SCT, focal reducer and ST-7E, losmandy dovetail with a

losmandy tube (front) counterweight on my 600E Goto with wooden

tripod. I'm "pushing" the limits of this setup as there is a bit of

flex in the tripod where the legs meet. I need portable metal legs or

a permanent setup to solve this.





Chris. Spratt

Victoria, BC --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, john gleason dvj@e...> wrote:

> As an ower of the 600goto I found it to be borderline with a 6 f/7

EDF for anything other than observing. To improve stability, the

mount is mated to a Losmandy tripod. Short tubes will work best with

this highly portable mount. RA tracking accuracy of my mount is superb.

>







----------------------------

#10100 Jun 8, 2004

When I plant the tripod legs I get no noticable flexure from the

tripod. I plant them with all my wieght.





--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "cspratt2001" cspratt@i...> wrote:

> I use a C9.25 SCT, focal reducer and ST-7E, losmandy dovetail with a

> losmandy tube (front) counterweight on my 600E Goto with wooden

> tripod. I'm "pushing" the limits of this setup as there is a bit of

> flex in the tripod where the legs meet. I need portable metal legs or

> a permanent setup to solve this.

>

>

> Chris. Spratt

> Victoria, BC

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, john gleason dvj@e...> wrote:

> > As an ower of the 600goto I found it to be borderline with a 6 f/7

> EDF for anything other than observing. To improve stability, the

> mount is mated to a Losmandy tripod. Short tubes will work best with

> this highly portable mount. RA tracking accuracy of my mount is

superb.

> >



----------------------------

#10102 Jun 8, 2004

I'm not sure a pier would help. What you need is a 900 GTO. :-)



Regards,

Robin

Astro Accessories from RobinCasady.com

www.robincasady.com/Astro

On Tuesday, June 8, 2004, at 11:55 AM, cspratt2001 wrote:



> I use a C9.25 SCT, focal reducer and ST-7E, losmandy dovetail with a

> losmandy tube (front) counterweight on my 600E Goto with wooden

> tripod. I'm "pushing" the limits of this setup as there is a bit of

> flex in the tripod where the legs meet. I need portable metal legs or

> a permanent setup to solve this.

>

>

> Chris. Spratt

> Victoria, BC

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, john gleason dvj@e...> wrote:

>> As an ower of the 600goto I found it to be borderline with a 6 f/7

> EDF for anything other than observing. To improve stability, the

> mount is mated to a Losmandy tripod. Short tubes will work best with

> this highly portable mount. RA tracking accuracy of my mount is superb.



----------------------------

#10336 Jul 17, 2004

Greetings,



With the clutches disengaged, moving my 600EGTO by hand requires (what

seems to me to be) a lot of force. For instance, even if the scope is

seriously misbalanced, it will not rotate freely in either axis due to

the stiffness.



I've used the whole set of AP mounts and the 600E is by *far* the

hardest to move with the clutches disengaged.



Is this normal with the 600E? If not, how can I tune this - it'd help

to be able to balance more accurately, and I don't like applying that

much force to a polar-aligned mounted (it's portable).



Thanks!

Ben



----------------------------

#10345 Jul 19, 2004

In a message dated 7/17/2004 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,

ben@... writes:



> Is this normal with the 600E? If not, how can I tune this



The stiffness of an axis will depend on the length of the scope that you are

using. If it's a long refractor, it may feel rather loose. If it's a short

SCT, it may feel tight. There is not way to tune this, unfortunately. If it is

overly stiff for you, we will have to disassemble the axis and make some

adjustments here. It isn't something that you can do in the field.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10797 Sep 24, 2004

I recently upgraded my 600E GTO RA servo motor and gear box to

32:1. Additionally, I have also upgraded my keypad to version 4.12.

It was my understanding that the new rapid slew rates would be 460x,

580x, and 675x. However, the keypad still indicates that my

selections are 600x, 900x, and 1200x. I have made certain that the

keypad has been set to 600E. Have I done something wrong or is this

correct?



Sincerely,



Don Barar



----------------------------

#10798 Sep 24, 2004

In a message dated 9/24/2004 8:47:36 PM Central Daylight Time,

dgbarar@... writes:



> However, the keypad still indicates that my

> selections are 600x, 900x, and 1200x. I have made certain that the

> keypad has been set to 600E. Have I done something wrong or is this

> correct?

>



The keypad software does not change. It is always going to stay this way.

Just think of the three slew rates as being slow, medium amd fast.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#10799 Sep 25, 2004

Hi Don,



I don't have an answer, but a question. What is the advantage of the

32:1 gearbox over the older 19.8:1 ratio? I've always wondered this

since I found that my 400GTO from 2000 is a 19.8:1 and not 32:1. I'm

a visual user with the 130mm EDT f8.35 refractor. Is it as simple as

more torque versus slweing speed?



Thanks,



Paul

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dbarar" dgbarar@e...> wrote:

> I recently upgraded my 600E GTO RA servo motor and gear box to

> 32:1. Additionally, I have also upgraded my keypad to version

4.12.

> It was my understanding that the new rapid slew rates would be

460x,

> 580x, and 675x. However, the keypad still indicates that my

> selections are 600x, 900x, and 1200x. I have made certain that the

> keypad has been set to 600E. Have I done something wrong or is

this

> correct?

>

> Sincerely,

>

> Don Barar







----------------------------

#10800 Sep 26, 2004

Dear Paul:



Unfortunately, my RA sevo motor failed. The replacement path also

included the 32:1 gear ratio for both the RA and DEC. It is my

understanding this replacement combination has higher torque than the

original design.



Don Barar

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Wilson" phemmerich@y...> wrote:

> Hi Don,

>

> I don't have an answer, but a question. What is the advantage of

the

> 32:1 gearbox over the older 19.8:1 ratio? I've always wondered this

> since I found that my 400GTO from 2000 is a 19.8:1 and not 32:1.

I'm

> a visual user with the 130mm EDT f8.35 refractor. Is it as simple

as

> more torque versus slweing speed?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Paul

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dbarar" dgbarar@e...> wrote:

> > I recently upgraded my 600E GTO RA servo motor and gear box to

> > 32:1. Additionally, I have also upgraded my keypad to version

> 4.12.

> > It was my understanding that the new rapid slew rates would be

> 460x,

> > 580x, and 675x. However, the keypad still indicates that my

> > selections are 600x, 900x, and 1200x. I have made certain that

the

> > keypad has been set to 600E. Have I done something wrong or is

> this

> > correct?

> >

> > Sincerely,

> >

> > Don Barar



----------------------------

#11045 Oct 25, 2004

Dear Roland:



Can the finger pressure method of adjusting the backlash be applied

to the 600E GTO? If so, are both allen bolts loosened?



Don Barar



----------------------------

#11046 Oct 25, 2004

In a message dated 10/25/2004 8:23:39 PM Central Daylight Time,

dgbarar@... writes:



> Can the finger pressure method of adjusting the backlash be applied

> to the 600E GTO? If so, are both allen bolts loosened?

>



It's a little more complicated for that one, I loosen one completely, and the

other one partially. Then I press the loose side into mesh gently and tighten

both screws.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11298 Dec 12, 2004

I own a 600E GTO mount. Yesterday when working with PEMPro for the

first time I noticed that the PEMPro software indicates that the worm

period is 382.95 seconds (I selected AP GTO Rev D, my chip indicates

KD). In contrast, when setting up to record the PE cycle with the hand

controller the display indicates that it will record for 468 seconds.



After acquiring several worm cycles with PEMPro I noticed that the

cycles over time do not seem to be in phase with one another. So I

guess the question is what is the correct worm period for a 600E GTO

with chip KD?



----------------------------

#11299 Dec 12, 2004

A small correction to my earlier posting. The handheld indicates a

recording time of 480 seconds (8 minutes) not the 468 seconds that I

earlier stated.



Don

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dbarar" dgbarar@e...> wrote:

>

> I own a 600E GTO mount. Yesterday when working with PEMPro for the

> first time I noticed that the PEMPro software indicates that the

worm

> period is 382.95 seconds (I selected AP GTO Rev D, my chip

indicates

> KD). In contrast, when setting up to record the PE cycle with the

hand

> controller the display indicates that it will record for 468

seconds.

>

> After acquiring several worm cycles with PEMPro I noticed that the

> cycles over time do not seem to be in phase with one another. So I

> guess the question is what is the correct worm period for a 600E

GTO

> with chip KD?



----------------------------

#11303 Dec 13, 2004

In a message dated 12/12/2004 11:44:43 AM Central Standard Time,

dgbarar@... writes:



> (I selected AP GTO Rev D, my chip indicates

> KD). In contrast, when setting up to record the PE cycle with the hand

> controller the display indicates that it will record for 468 seconds.

>



The 400/600 mounts use a 192 tooth gear, the 900/1200 mounts use a 225 tooth

gear. The worm cycle for the 400/600 is then 225/192 times longer than the

900/1200. We have set the countdown time on the keypad to be always longer than

the worm cycle so that a person does not stop recording before the end of the

worm cycle. All entries after one complete cycle is finished are ignored by the

servo.



The correct time for the 400/600 mounts is 448.77 seconds.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11383 Dec 21, 2004

Hi all,



Downloaded a trial version of PEMPro yesterday.

For my 1200GTO the worm period is set by the program,

but I don't have any precise numbers for the

600E except what the owner's manual says:

"about six and a half minutes".



Anybody have a more exact timing?

Any tips for a non-GTO mount?



Thanks,



Mike Connors



----------------------------

#11385 Dec 21, 2004

Hi Mike,



The latest version of PEMPro (v1.15) should have an entry for the 400/600 mounts. I think it is 448.77 seconds.



-Ray

> -----Original Message-----

> From: connomj39060 [mailto:connomj39060@...]

> Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2004 7:04 AM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] OT: Worm period of 600E QMD?

>

>

>

> Hi all,

>

> Downloaded a trial version of PEMPro yesterday.

> For my 1200GTO the worm period is set by the program, but I

> don't have any precise numbers for the 600E except what the

> owner's manual says:

> "about six and a half minutes".

>

> Anybody have a more exact timing?

> Any tips for a non-GTO mount?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Mike Connors

>

>

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#11386 Dec 21, 2004

Ray,



Thanks. I'll try that figure.



Mike Connors



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Gralak" ray@g...> wrote:

> Hi Mike,

>

> The latest version of PEMPro (v1.15) should have an entry for the

400/600 mounts. I think it is 448.77 seconds.

>

> -Ray



----------------------------

#11645 Jan 15, 2005

Hi Roland,



I'd posted this message a while ago on the AP-GTO Yahoo group - a

question about how very stiff my 600E GTO axes are.



There are no damper knobs that I can see on the 600E GTO, right? I

have certain expectations of how much force I need to move the mount

head in either axis, based on my experiences with the 400, 900 and

1200 GTO (assuming there is no counterweight shaft and nothing on the

mount head - it's totally unloaded). The 600E requires

*significantly* more torque to move the unclutched head in either axis

than even the big 1200 GTO.



Both axes are driven by the motor without any apparent difficulty and

it's never stalled...but it's tough to balance the 600E's RA axis just

because I load it up and it's gotta be *really* off balance to start

moving - even with no counterweight (yes, I'm gently holding the RA

axis so it doesn't swing around suddenly!).



Other than sending it in, do you have any suggestions for me for

things to try? I assume the behavior I'm seeing is not normal?

Thanks,

Ben

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 7/17/2004 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,

> ben@s... writes:

>

>

> > Is this normal with the 600E? If not, how can I tune this

>

> The stiffness of an axis will depend on the length of the scope that

you are

> using. If it's a long refractor, it may feel rather loose. If it's a

short

> SCT, it may feel tight. There is not way to tune this,

unfortunately. If it is

> overly stiff for you, we will have to disassemble the axis and make

some

> adjustments here. It isn't something that you can do in the field.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11646 Jan 15, 2005

When the declination axis is slewing, are the counterweights supposed

to slew with it? I don't think they do on my 1200GTO, but they do

rotate around the dec axis as it rotates. Is this expected behvior?

If not, any clues why it's happening?



I've got a big (and rare, between the job and growing family) astro

trip coming up next new moon, thus the sudden barrage of tuning

questions for the nice-and-portable 600E GTO.



Thanks!

Ben



----------------------------

#11649 Jan 15, 2005

In a message dated 1/15/2005 3:08:42 AM Central Standard Time,

ben@... writes:



> The 600E requires

> *significantly* more torque to move the unclutched head in either axis

> than even the big 1200 GTO.

>

> Both axes are driven by the motor without any apparent difficulty and

> it's never stalled...



It is normal for the 600E to have stiff movement when the clutch is loosened.

The motor drive has nothing to do with the manual motion of the mount. The

motors drive the mount through a different mechanism, not through the clutch

system.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11650 Jan 15, 2005

In a message dated 1/15/2005 3:36:46 AM Central Standard Time,

ben@... writes:



> When the declination axis is slewing, are the counterweights supposed

> to slew with it?



NO.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11653 Jan 15, 2005

Ok, it's good to know that it's normal that the 600E GTO is stiffer

than the other AP mounts.

Thanks,

Ben

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/15/2005 3:08:42 AM Central Standard Time,

> ben@s... writes:

>

>

> > The 600E requires

> > *significantly* more torque to move the unclutched head in either axis

> > than even the big 1200 GTO.

> >

> > Both axes are driven by the motor without any apparent difficulty and

> > it's never stalled...

>

> It is normal for the 600E to have stiff movement when the clutch is

loosened.

> The motor drive has nothing to do with the manual motion of the

mount. The

> motors drive the mount through a different mechanism, not through

the clutch

> system.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11667 Jan 16, 2005

Hi Roland,

Since my counterweights/counterweight shaft DOES rotate as the dec

axis slews, I'd love any advice as to how I might fix the problem.

Thanks!

Ben

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/15/2005 3:36:46 AM Central Standard Time,

> ben@s... writes:

>

>

> > When the declination axis is slewing, are the counterweights supposed

> > to slew with it?

>

> NO.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#11671 Jan 17, 2005

In a message dated 1/16/2005 7:23:21 PM Central Standard Time,

ben@... writes:



> Since my counterweights/counterweight shaft DOES rotate as the dec

> axis slews, I'd love any advice as to how I might fix the problem.

>



What problem are you having?



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11676 Jan 17, 2005

Unless I misunderstood, you'd said in an earlier post that the

counterweight shaft should NOT rotate with the declination axis.



However, my counterweight shaft DOES rotate with the declination axis.



I'm not sure why is it rotating, but since it's not supposed to, it

seems like that is a problem...I took apart the top of the declination

assembly but didn't see anything obvious that might explain why the

counterweight shaft is rotating with the dec head...

Thanks, Roland.

Ben





--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/16/2005 7:23:21 PM Central Standard Time,

> ben@s... writes:

>

>

> > Since my counterweights/counterweight shaft DOES rotate as the dec

> > axis slews, I'd love any advice as to how I might fix the problem.

> >

>

> What problem are you having?

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11677 Jan 17, 2005

In a message dated 1/17/2005 4:25:28 PM Central Standard Time,

ben@... writes:



> However, my counterweight shaft DOES rotate with the declination axis.



Yes, it's supposed to. My mistake.

>

> I'm not sure why is it rotating, but since it's not supposed to, it

> seems like that is a problem...I took apart the top of the declination

> assembly but didn't see anything obvious that might explain why the

> counterweight shaft is rotating with the dec head...

>

If you took the top of the Dec axis apart, you probably should talk to Wally,

our technician, because that can result in some problems when you re-assemble

it, if you do it wrong.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#11686 Jan 18, 2005

Crud. I'll call Wally tomorrow.

Thanks, Roland. Glad to know the dec axis is OK.

b

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@a... wrote:

> In a message dated 1/17/2005 4:25:28 PM Central Standard Time,

> ben@s... writes:

>

>

> > However, my counterweight shaft DOES rotate with the declination axis.

>

> Yes, it's supposed to. My mistake.

>

> >

> > I'm not sure why is it rotating, but since it's not supposed to, it

> > seems like that is a problem...I took apart the top of the declination

> > assembly but didn't see anything obvious that might explain why the

> > counterweight shaft is rotating with the dec head...

> >

> If you took the top of the Dec axis apart, you probably should talk

to Wally,

> our technician, because that can result in some problems when you

re-assemble

> it, if you do it wrong.

>

> Roland Christen

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12355 Mar 14, 2005

I recently purchased a used 600E GTO mount and have only run into one

small difficulty using it. It seems difficult to lock the altitude

axis without shifting the altitude a bit when tightening the two caps

screws. Does any one have any tips on how to tghten this axis without

shifting the alignment?



Dennis Hohman,

Stone Edge Observatory,

Orchard Park, NY



----------------------------

#12563 Apr 8, 2005

I have read through a number of very informative posts in the group

archives concerning this subject; especially one by Roland where he

mentions that it is very important to to have the DEC backlash

settings set to zero in both the mount controller and in Maxim for

proper calibration. This advice seems counter-intuitive to me since

those settings would compensate for the the time lag in picking up

slack in the dec drive which must have an adverse effect on guider

calibration.



When I train the calibration of my mount at 1X speed with backlash

set to zero, the calibration-star comes up short of the original

starting position when the the calibration run is finished (the last

movements are in declination). When backlash compensation is set to

what appears to be an optimum value, the star always returns to the

start position within a a pixel or two. Is this not an ideal

condition?



I would think one would want backlash compensation to be constant in

both the calibration and while guiding.



Would someone in the group like to comment on this subject?



Thanks,



Dennis Hohman

Stone Edge Observatory

Orchard Park, NY



----------------------------

#12564 Apr 8, 2005

Hi Dennis,



My own view on this particular bit of advice is that the potential

for screwing up the calibration is greater with DEC backlash

compensation turned on versus turning it off. If, however, you are

confident that you've got the right amount of backlash compensation

dialed in, calibration should be more accurate. I calibrate with a

small amount of DEC backlash compensation set in MaxIm. Having said

that, I haven't calibrated my guider since about August last year.

If nothing physically changes with your guider, there's no need to

recalibrate.



Just about everything I (think I) know about guiding can be found

here:



acp4.dc3.com/McMillanAutoguiding02-2005.pdf



Once you've waded though it, you'll see that having a "perfect"

calibration is far less important than you might think. This is

particulary true when using excellent mounts.



Hope this helps.



Jim McMillan





--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dennishohman" dennishohman@a...>

wrote: >

> I have read through a number of very informative posts in the group

> archives concerning this subject; especially one by Roland where he

> mentions that it is very important to to have the DEC backlash

> settings set to zero in both the mount controller and in Maxim for

> proper calibration. This advice seems counter-intuitive to me since

> those settings would compensate for the the time lag in picking up

> slack in the dec drive which must have an adverse effect on guider

> calibration.

>

> When I train the calibration of my mount at 1X speed with backlash

> set to zero, the calibration-star comes up short of the original

> starting position when the the calibration run is finished (the

last > movements are in declination). When backlash compensation is set to

> what appears to be an optimum value, the star always returns to the

> start position within a a pixel or two. Is this not an ideal

> condition?

>

> I would think one would want backlash compensation to be constant

in > both the calibration and while guiding.

>

> Would someone in the group like to comment on this subject?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Dennis Hohman

> Stone Edge Observatory

> Orchard Park, NY







----------------------------

#12567 Apr 8, 2005

In a message dated 4/8/2005 8:01:52 AM Central Daylight Time,

dennishohman@... writes:



> I would think one would want backlash compensation to be constant in

> both the calibration and while guiding.

>



You can leave it in for calibration, but reduce or eliminate it for guiding

to prevent any possibility of overshoot when the mount is asked to reverse.

Normally Dec drift is only in one direction anyway, so there is little need for

reversing the motion. If calibration is done correctly and you have the

agressiveness setting less than 100%, then the mount should not need to be reversed.

Excessive reversing during guiding is an indication that your guider is trying

to chase the seeing.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#12572 Apr 8, 2005

Hi Jim,



Thanks for your input. I read your treatise on autoguiding about a

week ago and it was a real eye-opener. I wish I could have read it a

year ago because it would have helped me get a lot more performance

out of a lesser mount. Thanks for sharing it.



The 600E mount is new for me so I have some learning to do to get

the best performance. Managed to get a nice PEM recording that seemed

to make things worse but between reading your article and Roland's

advice that condition has been reversed.



One other thing that I wonder about besides the accuracy of the

mount response is the computers accuracy generating guider timing

pulses of .04 to .1 seconds. I use an older laptop out in the

observatory that runs Windows 98 and I have heard that the timers in

Windows 98 are not very accurate so I wonder if that comes into play?

Can't do much about it though unless I upgrade the computer.



We finally are getting a few clear nights in a row here in the lee

of Lake Erie so perhaps all this learning will pay-off this weekend

with a keeper image.



Thanks again for your help and for Roland's comments,



Dennis







--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "mcmillanjr4221" valueware@m...>

wrote: >

> Hi Dennis,

>

> My own view on this particular bit of advice is that the potential

> for screwing up the calibration is greater with DEC backlash

> compensation turned on versus turning it off. If, however, you are

> confident that you've got the right amount of backlash compensation

> dialed in, calibration should be more accurate. I calibrate with a

> small amount of DEC backlash compensation set in MaxIm. Having

said > that, I haven't calibrated my guider since about August last year.

> If nothing physically changes with your guider, there's no need to

> recalibrate.

>

> Just about everything I (think I) know about guiding can be found

> here:

>

> acp4.dc3.com/McMillanAutoguiding02-2005.pdf

>

> Once you've waded though it, you'll see that having a "perfect"

> calibration is far less important than you might think. This is

> particulary true when using excellent mounts.

>

> Hope this helps.

>

> Jim McMillan

>

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dennishohman" dennishohman@a...>

> wrote:

> >

> > I have read through a number of very informative posts in the

group > > archives concerning this subject; especially one by Roland where

he > > mentions that it is very important to to have the DEC backlash

> > settings set to zero in both the mount controller and in Maxim

for > > proper calibration. This advice seems counter-intuitive to me

since > > those settings would compensate for the the time lag in picking

up > > slack in the dec drive which must have an adverse effect on

guider > > calibration.

> >

> > When I train the calibration of my mount at 1X speed with

backlash > > set to zero, the calibration-star comes up short of the original

> > starting position when the the calibration run is finished (the

> last

> > movements are in declination). When backlash compensation is set

to > > what appears to be an optimum value, the star always returns to

the > > start position within a a pixel or two. Is this not an ideal

> > condition?

> >

> > I would think one would want backlash compensation to be constant

> in

> > both the calibration and while guiding.

> >

> > Would someone in the group like to comment on this subject?

> >

> > Thanks,

> >

> > Dennis Hohman

> > Stone Edge Observatory

> > Orchard Park, NY



----------------------------

#12575 Apr 8, 2005

Hi Dennis,



As I understand it, if you're using an SBIG camera and using its

relays, the timing is controlled by the camera, not the PC. I don't

know about other cameras...



Lee side of Lake Erie? I'm in Strongsville, OH and am imaging as I

write this.



Regards,



Jim



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dennishohman" dennishohman@a...>

wrote: >

> Hi Jim,

>

> Thanks for your input. I read your treatise on autoguiding about

a > week ago and it was a real eye-opener. I wish I could have read it

a > year ago because it would have helped me get a lot more

performance > out of a lesser mount. Thanks for sharing it.

>

> The 600E mount is new for me so I have some learning to do to

get > the best performance. Managed to get a nice PEM recording that

seemed > to make things worse but between reading your article and Roland's

> advice that condition has been reversed.

>

> One other thing that I wonder about besides the accuracy of the

> mount response is the computers accuracy generating guider timing

> pulses of .04 to .1 seconds. I use an older laptop out in the

> observatory that runs Windows 98 and I have heard that the timers

in > Windows 98 are not very accurate so I wonder if that comes into

play? > Can't do much about it though unless I upgrade the computer.

>

> We finally are getting a few clear nights in a row here in the

lee > of Lake Erie so perhaps all this learning will pay-off this

weekend > with a keeper image.

>

> Thanks again for your help and for Roland's comments,

>

> Dennis

>

>

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "mcmillanjr4221" valueware@m...>

> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Dennis,

> >

> > My own view on this particular bit of advice is that the

potential > > for screwing up the calibration is greater with DEC backlash

> > compensation turned on versus turning it off. If, however, you

are > > confident that you've got the right amount of backlash

compensation > > dialed in, calibration should be more accurate. I calibrate

with a > > small amount of DEC backlash compensation set in MaxIm. Having

> said

> > that, I haven't calibrated my guider since about August last

year. > > If nothing physically changes with your guider, there's no need

to > > recalibrate.

> >

> > Just about everything I (think I) know about guiding can be

found > > here:

> >

> > acp4.dc3.com/McMillanAutoguiding02-2005.pdf

> >

> > Once you've waded though it, you'll see that having a "perfect"

> > calibration is far less important than you might think. This is

> > particulary true when using excellent mounts.

> >

> > Hope this helps.

> >

> > Jim McMillan

> >

> >

> > --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "dennishohman"

dennishohman@a...> > > wrote:

> > >

> > > I have read through a number of very informative posts in the

> group

> > > archives concerning this subject; especially one by Roland

where > he

> > > mentions that it is very important to to have the DEC backlash

> > > settings set to zero in both the mount controller and in Maxim

> for

> > > proper calibration. This advice seems counter-intuitive to me

> since

> > > those settings would compensate for the the time lag in

picking > up

> > > slack in the dec drive which must have an adverse effect on

> guider

> > > calibration.

> > >

> > > When I train the calibration of my mount at 1X speed with

> backlash

> > > set to zero, the calibration-star comes up short of the

original > > > starting position when the the calibration run is finished

(the > > last

> > > movements are in declination). When backlash compensation is

set > to

> > > what appears to be an optimum value, the star always returns

to > the

> > > start position within a a pixel or two. Is this not an ideal

> > > condition?

> > >

> > > I would think one would want backlash compensation to be

constant > > in

> > > both the calibration and while guiding.

> > >

> > > Would someone in the group like to comment on this subject?

> > >

> > > Thanks,

> > >

> > > Dennis Hohman

> > > Stone Edge Observatory

> > > Orchard Park, NY







----------------------------

#13592 Oct 2, 2005

Plesae respond to my Astromart ad if interested.

www.astromart.com/classifieds/details.asp?classified_id=380133



Thanks,



Rick Krejci



----------------------------

#14615 Mar 19, 2006

Hiya group,



I recently picked up a 600e GTO second hand and I have a question

about the clutch operation on the dec axis. It appears that the

clutch needs to move through around 120 degrees to go from fully

engaged to fully disengaged. What I've found, though, is that the

location of my dovetail saddle prevents the clutch from moving through

its full range of motion. Essentially, when the saddle is on the

mount I can't engage the clutch enough to allow my scope to slew in

declination. So...I'm wondering what possible solutions there are out

there. Can I tighten up the clutch so it operates over a smaller

range of angles between engaged and disengaged, or are there other

considerations I'm not aware of. Should I try a different

saddle/mounting plate system? I'm using a Robin Casady saddle,

currently. Any input would be appreciated.



Mark



----------------------------

#15364 Jun 22, 2006

Marj --



Thanks. I was sort of afraid of that as the length of the Classical

Cass is more Newt-like than SCT-like. If I'm underwhelmed by the C9.25

I got to test things out, perhaps I'll look at a Mewlon 210.



By the way: my 1200GTO in Ireland has done more to ensure enjoyment (and

lack of frustration) in this hobby than any other purchase I've made.

(Although it seems to be leading to a bit of AP addiction....)



Thanks,

-- Jeff.







---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Marj

Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 2:24 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] 10" Classical Cassegrain on an AP600e GTO?







Hi Jeff,



We recommend that you use a 900 mount for your 10" Classical

Cass since it weighs 40 lbs. The 600E is rated closer to 25lbs,

depending on the length of the telescope.





Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Road

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

Please include this e-mail with your response.



-----Original Message-----

From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ]On

Behalf Of Jeff Young

Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 7:17 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [ap-gto] 10" Classical Cassegrain on an AP600e GTO?



Could the AP600eGTO carry a Parallax 10" Classical Cassegrain

(40lbs,

40" tube length) for visual use?



Thanks,

-- Jeff.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#15952 Oct 2, 2006

Dear Group,



there is a question regarding my AP600E mount/GTO Controller Keypad



RA N/S button seem to work reversed: If I press the N button the

telescopes slews in the south direction. If I press the S button the

telescope slews to the North direction.

Is this behavoiur normal?

RA E/W Button work ok. Everyting else (slewing to objects) is working

fine.

Location Data:

Location 1; Lat N 48.08'52'' Lon E 11.02'20''; Time Zone 01; Time =

13:03:41; Daylight Saving = 1 (summer) Date: October/02/2006

RA/DEC reversion are both set to normal.



Best Regards

Gernot Osterloh



----------------------------

#15954 Oct 2, 2006

Check out the keypad for reversing N/S and E/W buttons. I don't have

mine handy but I know it is in there, and it is certainly in the

manual as well, available online on the astro-physics website.

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "gernotosterloh" g.o@...> wrote:

>

> Dear Group,

>

> there is a question regarding my AP600E mount/GTO Controller Keypad

>

> RA N/S button seem to work reversed: If I press the N button the

> telescopes slews in the south direction. If I press the S button the

> telescope slews to the North direction.

> Is this behavoiur normal?

> RA E/W Button work ok. Everyting else (slewing to objects) is working

> fine.

> Location Data:

> Location 1; Lat N 48.08'52'' Lon E 11.02'20''; Time Zone 01; Time =

> 13:03:41; Daylight Saving = 1 (summer) Date: October/02/2006

> RA/DEC reversion are both set to normal.

>

> Best Regards

> Gernot Osterloh

>



----------------------------

#15956 Oct 2, 2006

And one final item. It all depends on whether you are on the east or

west side of the mount when you try this as well. If you are on the

east side and track through to the west side then the button will

operate consistently in that whatever N does it will continue to do.

If you shut down on the west side and start up from the east side then

it will probably be backwards as well. It is one of the reasons you

should always shuit down and resume from a known park position when

running a portable setup. For something in a permanent setting, where

it won't be disturbed, you can just turn it off and power it back up

and it will carry one exactly as it did previously. Now, for example,

let's start with the N button moving the objective of the telescope up

towards Polaris if you have the mount and scope in Park position 1

with the scope on the west side of the mmount and the objective

pointing north. If you physically loosen the clutches and manually

flip the mount from west to east and lock the clutches keeping the

objective pointing north, it has no way of knowing that you did this

and will continue to turn the motor the same direction when you press

the N keypad button resulting in the inverted operation. In other

words, the objective end of the telescope will go down with N being

pressed. If you did a goto operation which resulted in the mount

flipping sides then the buttons should automatically reverse so that N

still operates as it did before moving the objective in the same

direction it did previously (up will still be up). Clear as mud isn't

it and something to play with to understand fully. Bottom line is if

it is moving opposite to the way you want it to, use the keypad or

software to change that button's operation and carry on.

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "gernotosterloh" g.o@...> wrote:

>

> Dear Group,

>

> there is a question regarding my AP600E mount/GTO Controller Keypad

>

> RA N/S button seem to work reversed: If I press the N button the

> telescopes slews in the south direction. If I press the S button the

> telescope slews to the North direction.

> Is this behavoiur normal?

> RA E/W Button work ok. Everyting else (slewing to objects) is working

> fine.

> Location Data:

> Location 1; Lat N 48.08'52'' Lon E 11.02'20''; Time Zone 01; Time =

> 13:03:41; Daylight Saving = 1 (summer) Date: October/02/2006

> RA/DEC reversion are both set to normal.

>

> Best Regards

> Gernot Osterloh

>







----------------------------

#15979 Oct 3, 2006

In a message dated 10/2/2006 10:29:30 AM Central Daylight Time,

g.o@... writes:



> there is a question regarding my AP600E mount/GTO Controller Keypad

>

> RA N/S button seem to work reversed: If I press the N button the

> telescopes slews in the south direction. If I press the S button the

> telescope slews to the North direction.

> Is this behavoiur normal?

>



Of course, this is normal behaviour. All German mounts will do this because

there are two sides to the mount. That is why the controllers all have

reversing key functions.



Rolando



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#16018 Oct 9, 2006

Hi,



I am about to get an AP 600E GTO mount and I plan on using it with an

SBIG ST-4 autoguider.



I was hoping someone could give me some advice about using this

autoguider with this mount.



Any thing I should look out for? I've been reading the recent thread

about Dec guiding problems and Roland's reply.



I have also read the 600E and hand control documentation from AP, and

I see there is a setting for taking up the backlash in the dec and RA.



Should these settings in the hand controller be on or off when using the ST-4?



I will be shooting with an AP 130EDT f/8 scope of 1,040mm focal

length. What parameters for the ST-4 calibration run should I use for

RA and DEC, about 10-20 seconds?



Thanks,



Jerry Lodriguss



----------------------------

#16021 Oct 10, 2006

When I was using my ST4 with the 600 goto I had the hand

control set to 1x and I have never felt the need to use PEC or have I

noticed any problems with the DEC. Using either my AP 130 F6 with a

Tak FS-78 as the guide scope or using my AP 155 F7 with the AP 80mm

guide scope on this mount once drift aligned has given me 0's and 1's

on the ST4. The polarscope I sent with the mount is boresighted with

the 600 goto and will of course get you real close to the pole. Once

that is done you can drift align using your favorite drift align

technique I use approx 300x with a barlow and a Celestron 7mm cross

hair eyepiece. While using the ST4 the only settings I changed from

the ST4 default was the C1 and C2 the X and Y excursion I believe I

set that to 10 to give it more travel. Of course exposure settings

and the boost factor has to be changed depending on the brightness of

your guide star. Generally I try to keep the exposure to around 1

second or less and at times I have used that ST4 feature AA Averaging

Adjust where you skip 2 or 3 before the ST4 relay's initiate a

change. But that was only when the seeing was not that good. H1 and

H2 Hysteresis I have never really messed with the default setting

seemed to be good enough for me. Now with my ST10 I've geen using a

different routine when calibrating the guide chip using the 600 goto.

But I guess that would be a different topic. When I get home I can

send you my notes I used on my ST4 when I was using it. The only

onther thing I might mention I use 600x for the slew instead of 1200x

to minimize current draw. and 600x is fast enough. Last I might

mention is that I ran the ST4 off the same battery as the mount. The

batery I use is a 55 Amp hour Optima yellow top. That is the same

battery I use for my 900 goto and my ST10.



Clear Skies

Dwight L Bogan







--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

>

> Hi,

>

> I am about to get an AP 600E GTO mount and I plan on using it with

an

> SBIG ST-4 autoguider.

>

> I was hoping someone could give me some advice about using this

> autoguider with this mount.

>

> Any thing I should look out for? I've been reading the recent

thread

> about Dec guiding problems and Roland's reply.

>

> I have also read the 600E and hand control documentation from AP,

and

> I see there is a setting for taking up the backlash in the dec and

RA.

>

> Should these settings in the hand controller be on or off when

using the ST-4?

>

> I will be shooting with an AP 130EDT f/8 scope of 1,040mm focal

> length. What parameters for the ST-4 calibration run should I use

for

> RA and DEC, about 10-20 seconds?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Jerry Lodriguss

>



----------------------------

#16022 Oct 10, 2006

Hi Dwight,



Thanks for the info.



I know how to use the ST-4, I've been using one for about 15 years now.



I just wasn't sure about what to set the the RA and Dec backlash

adjustments done with the hand controller when using the ST-4 to autoguide..



Jerry





At 12:33 PM 10/10/2006, you wrote: >

> When I was using my ST4 with the 600 goto I had the hand

>control set to 1x and I have never felt the need to use PEC or have I

>noticed any problems with the DEC. Using either my AP 130 F6 with a

>Tak FS-78 as the guide scope or using my AP 155 F7 with the AP 80mm

>guide scope on this mount once drift aligned has given me 0's and 1's

>on the ST4. The polarscope I sent with the mount is boresighted with

>the 600 goto and will of course get you real close to the pole. Once

>that is done you can drift align using your favorite drift align

>technique I use approx 300x with a barlow and a Celestron 7mm cross

>hair eyepiece. While using the ST4 the only settings I changed from

>the ST4 default was the C1 and C2 the X and Y excursion I believe I

>set that to 10 to give it more travel. Of course exposure settings

>and the boost factor has to be changed depending on the brightness of

>your guide star. Generally I try to keep the exposure to around 1

>second or less and at times I have used that ST4 feature AA Averaging

>Adjust where you skip 2 or 3 before the ST4 relay's initiate a

>change. But that was only when the seeing was not that good. H1 and

>H2 Hysteresis I have never really messed with the default setting

>seemed to be good enough for me. Now with my ST10 I've geen using a

>different routine when calibrating the guide chip using the 600 goto.

>But I guess that would be a different topic. When I get home I can

>send you my notes I used on my ST4 when I was using it. The only

>onther thing I might mention I use 600x for the slew instead of 1200x

>to minimize current draw. and 600x is fast enough. Last I might

>mention is that I ran the ST4 off the same battery as the mount. The

>batery I use is a 55 Amp hour Optima yellow top. That is the same

>battery I use for my 900 goto and my ST10.

>

>Clear Skies

>Dwight L Bogan

>

>

>

>

>--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

> >

> > Hi,

> >

> > I am about to get an AP 600E GTO mount and I plan on using it with

>an

> > SBIG ST-4 autoguider.

> >

> > I was hoping someone could give me some advice about using this

> > autoguider with this mount.

> >

> > Any thing I should look out for? I've been reading the recent

>thread

> > about Dec guiding problems and Roland's reply.

> >

> > I have also read the 600E and hand control documentation from AP,

>and

> > I see there is a setting for taking up the backlash in the dec and

>RA.

> >

> > Should these settings in the hand controller be on or off when

>using the ST-4?

> >

> > I will be shooting with an AP 130EDT f/8 scope of 1,040mm focal

> > length. What parameters for the ST-4 calibration run should I use

>for

> > RA and DEC, about 10-20 seconds?

> >

> > Thanks,

> >

> > Jerry Lodriguss

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.







----------------------------

#16023 Oct 10, 2006

In a message dated 10/10/2006 1:28:06 PM Central Daylight Time,

lists5@... writes:



> I just wasn't sure about what to set the the RA and Dec backlash

> adjustments done with the hand controller when using the ST-4 to autoguide..

>



RA backlash has no meaning when guiding. Dec backlash should be set to zero

in any guiding situations. You can set it to compensate only during calibration

run, but not when guiding, or you may experience some overshoot or hunting.



Roland Christen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#16025 Oct 10, 2006

Well I kind uv thought you knew how to use an ST4 :-) I've

only been using one for 10 years and it was Wil Milan who taught me

how to use it. Did you not teach Wil :-) or at least correspond

with him. ahem at any rate. When you get your mount, set it up and

when the handcontrol and mount boots up. The settings that you need

should come up automatically. mount 600, slew rate 600x guiding rate

should be 1x and no Dec or backlash compensation was used. One thing

you definately will have to change is the location and time zone. I

should have programed that in for you but then you would need to

learn how to do that. My location is location 1 and that is what your

going to have to change. The handcontrol when it boots up will ask

you the location. From there you can go into the routine to modify

your new location. and then save it.



Another tip I might offer and this is what I do when I go out

usually at dusk when the stars are just coming out all I do to setup

the mount is to polar align with the polarscope and then sync on a

familiar star. From there you can go into a drift align and then

resync if you feel it neccesary or go do what you like. The mount

offers a lot of ways to set it up. I don't use the two star alignment

or one star and polaris. The other routine I have used is the daytime

alignment using a 9 inch carpenters level to set the RA and Dec axis

after pointing the mount as close to north as I can get it with the

mount level. I have found the moon, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Deneb,

Sirious and procyon in the daytime with my AP 155 in the afternoon

after doing the daytime polar routine outlined in the manual.





Clear Skies

Dwight L Bogan









--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

>

>

> Hi Dwight,

>

> Thanks for the info.

>

> I know how to use the ST-4, I've been using one for about 15 years

now.

>

> I just wasn't sure about what to set the the RA and Dec backlash

> adjustments done with the hand controller when using the ST-4 to

autoguide..

>

> Jerry

>



----------------------------

#16026 Oct 10, 2006

Hi Dwight,



Thanks for the info.



Do you know what the version number is for the keypad controller? Is

it 2.6? That's the version documentation that I've been reading and

studying. I don't know how much differences there are between

different version numbers...



Jerry





At 04:10 PM 10/10/2006, you wrote:

> Well I kind uv thought you knew how to use an ST4 :-) I've

>only been using one for 10 years and it was Wil Milan who taught me

>how to use it. Did you not teach Wil :-) or at least correspond

>with him. ahem at any rate. When you get your mount, set it up and

>when the handcontrol and mount boots up. The settings that you need

>should come up automatically. mount 600, slew rate 600x guiding rate

>should be 1x and no Dec or backlash compensation was used. One thing

>you definately will have to change is the location and time zone. I

>should have programed that in for you but then you would need to

>learn how to do that. My location is location 1 and that is what your

>going to have to change. The handcontrol when it boots up will ask

>you the location. From there you can go into the routine to modify

>your new location. and then save it.

>

> Another tip I might offer and this is what I do when I go out

>usually at dusk when the stars are just coming out all I do to setup

>the mount is to polar align with the polarscope and then sync on a

>familiar star. From there you can go into a drift align and then

>resync if you feel it neccesary or go do what you like. The mount

>offers a lot of ways to set it up. I don't use the two star alignment

>or one star and polaris. The other routine I have used is the daytime

>alignment using a 9 inch carpenters level to set the RA and Dec axis

>after pointing the mount as close to north as I can get it with the

>mount level. I have found the moon, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Deneb,

>Sirious and procyon in the daytime with my AP 155 in the afternoon

>after doing the daytime polar routine outlined in the manual.

>

>

>Clear Skies

>Dwight L Bogan

>

>

>

>

>

>--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

> >

> >

> > Hi Dwight,

> >

> > Thanks for the info.

> >

> > I know how to use the ST-4, I've been using one for about 15 years

>now.

> >

> > I just wasn't sure about what to set the the RA and Dec backlash

> > adjustments done with the hand controller when using the ST-4 to

>autoguide..

> >

> > Jerry

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>



A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.







----------------------------

#16028 Oct 10, 2006

The handcontrol software Version is 4.12 and that should be what

your reading in the documentation.



Clear Skies

Dwight L Bogan



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

>

>

> Hi Dwight,

>

> Thanks for the info.

>

> Do you know what the version number is for the keypad controller?

Is

> it 2.6? That's the version documentation that I've been reading

and

> studying. I don't know how much differences there are between

> different version numbers...

>

> Jerry

>

>

> At 04:10 PM 10/10/2006, you wrote:

>

> > Well I kind uv thought you knew how to use an ST4 :-) I've

> >only been using one for 10 years and it was Wil Milan who taught me

> >how to use it. Did you not teach Wil :-) or at least correspond

> >with him. ahem at any rate. When you get your mount, set it up and

> >when the handcontrol and mount boots up. The settings that you need

> >should come up automatically. mount 600, slew rate 600x guiding

rate

> >should be 1x and no Dec or backlash compensation was used. One

thing

> >you definately will have to change is the location and time zone. I

> >should have programed that in for you but then you would need to

> >learn how to do that. My location is location 1 and that is what

your

> >going to have to change. The handcontrol when it boots up will ask

> >you the location. From there you can go into the routine to modify

> >your new location. and then save it.

> >

> > Another tip I might offer and this is what I do when I go out

> >usually at dusk when the stars are just coming out all I do to

setup

> >the mount is to polar align with the polarscope and then sync on a

> >familiar star. From there you can go into a drift align and then

> >resync if you feel it neccesary or go do what you like. The mount

> >offers a lot of ways to set it up. I don't use the two star

alignment

> >or one star and polaris. The other routine I have used is the

daytime

> >alignment using a 9 inch carpenters level to set the RA and Dec

axis

> >after pointing the mount as close to north as I can get it with the

> >mount level. I have found the moon, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Deneb,

> >Sirious and procyon in the daytime with my AP 155 in the afternoon

> >after doing the daytime polar routine outlined in the manual.

> >

> >

> >Clear Skies

> >Dwight L Bogan

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@> wrote:

> > >

> > >

> > > Hi Dwight,

> > >

> > > Thanks for the info.

> > >

> > > I know how to use the ST-4, I've been using one for about 15

years

> >now.

> > >

> > > I just wasn't sure about what to set the the RA and Dec backlash

> > > adjustments done with the hand controller when using the ST-4 to

> >autoguide..

> > >

> > > Jerry

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

> A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

> www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

>



----------------------------

#16244 Nov 1, 2006

Jerry



Thank you for your suggestions. It's about the same I was told when

calling my local dealer (Baader Planetarium in Germany) yesterday.

Besides increasing SA the engineer there also mentionned that one

could "cut" one DE guiding direction (using switches in the cabling or

whatsoever) to allow the guider only to correct in one DE direction

(as there should in fact be no need to correct in both directions). I

doubt that this would help as the guider would - after the first tiny

error - set the scope somewhere (several ST-4 pixel units) away in DE

in one direction and not "take it back" to where it should point to.

The engineer at Baader mentionned that this "overshooting" might not

be caused by worm play (backlash) but could be caused by play/flexure

somewhere in the motor-to-worm gears.



I am usually integrating about 5 exposures on a brighter guide star

(AA=5, EA=1, B=1-3) as I reamarked that this helps and the mount does

not require tighter guiding on RA. The overshooting is worse with bad

seeing.



For now I will wait for better weather and try with SA=10.



Thank you for your suggestions.



Clear Skies



Hansjoerg

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Hansjoerg,

>

> I would suggest setting the SA parameter to 10, this essentially

turns it off.

>

> Also, I am using a calibration C1 and C2 time of 10 seconds for my

600E mount.

>

> I do notice that there is some overshoot in R.A.

> (the star keeps moving after the button is let

> up), and that when reversing directions in DEC

> there is sometimes a fairly long period before

> the star starts to move when pressing the button.

>

> I never had these problems on my Losmandy GM100EQ

> mount, but that mount had a tangent arm on the dec.

>

> This is what the RA backlash and DEC backlash

> settings correct for with the 600E mount.

>

> However, I believe Roland recommends that these

> settings be turned off when autoguiding with the

> ST-4, but it seems like this is the problem you are seeing.

>

> If the mount is not perfectly polar aligned (and

> it can't be for every part of the sky), then you

> will have some dec drift. It should be in one

> direction only, so the dec backlash shouldn't

> matter, but if the mount is trying to chase the

> seeing (if it is poor), then the dec backlash

> could be the cause of the problem you are

> seeing. This is why I would recommend you turn

> off the SA parameter by setting it to 10. Even

> with this off, really bad seeing may cause the

> ST-4 to try to chase the seeing. In that case

> using a brighter star with shorter integrations

> and averaging 5 or 10 integrations may help.

>

> I keep my mount balanced in dec, and although

> I've only used it with the ST-4 twice, I have not

> seen the problem you describe.

>

> Jerry

>

>

>

> At 04:52 AM 10/31/2006, you wrote:

> >Hello group

> >

> >On my AP600E GTO I have mounted two refractors. One as imager and the

> >other as guiding scope. Both are mounted parallel to each other.

> >Imaging is done using a Canon EOS 20DA, Guiding by a SBIG ST-4. The

> >setup . on a Baader wooden tripod - is polar aligned using a PASIL3

> >and sometimes a follow-up drift alignement. ST-4 parameters are as

> >required: EA: 1, B: 1..4, SA:5..7, C1/C2: 30/40, AA: 5. PEM is set OFF.

> >

> >My problem: The declination axis starts with sort of sinusoidal

> >movement. After the tracking was fine for a certain period of time

> >(some seconds to minutes), a small error in DE occurs which must be

> >corrected by the ST-4. The ST-4 sends corrections to the mount . but

> >this does not react immediately so another correction in the same

> >direction is sent over and over . until suddenly the mount reacts but

> >now moves much too far in the required direction. From that moment on,

> >the "game" starts in the opposite direction. ST-4 readings (0.2 pixel

> >units . DE is Y) might look as follows:

> >. 0, 0, 0, .. -1, -1, -1, -1, -1, -1, 0, -1, -1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 3, 4,

> >4, 5, 4, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0...

> >.0, 0, -2, -3, -4, -3,..

> >To exclude the effect of DE-backlash I tried with unbalancing the

> >setup. This had a positive influence but the described effect still

> >existed. I also tried with all the possible compensation features

> >(offered by the mount or the ST-4). This caused the overreaction to be

> >worse. Besides of this, the amount of overreaction seems to depend on

> >how often corrections are sent to the mount (longer exposures or

> >higher AA values will cause a smother behaviour, "tighter" guiding

> >will worsen the effect). Clearly the precision of the polar alignment

> >significantly influences DE guiding precision as well.

> >

> >There is absolutely no guiding problem in RA.

> >

> >What might cause this effect? How could it be cured? There is some

> >axial play in the DE axis. When the . empty . mount is rotated along

> >the RA axis a soft "clog" might be heard when the DE axis points

> >towards the ground. Could this have an influence? Is it the somewhat

> >stiff lube that becomes even stiffer in colder environments?

> >

> >Any idea what could help me?

> >

> >Thank you for your statement . and clear skies!

> >

> >Hansjoerg

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

>

> A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

> www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

>







----------------------------

#16249 Nov 3, 2006

Hansjoerg,



Generally, declination drift will occur in one direction

only, +Y or -Y (assuming DEC=Y axis).



Using a non-calibrated ST-4, determine which direction

DEC is drifting. The ST-4 goes through its calibration

routine in a specific order: +X, -X, +Y, -Y (I think).

What you want to do is disable the unnecessary DEC direction.

During calibration, you can do this by pulling the autoguider

connection either from the mount or the ST-4 box when the

relay you want disabled comes up. Timing is critical :o)

The ST-4 will assume you have no relay in that direction

and will not issue corrections to that relay.



A better way would be to a small box with 2 switches in

between your ST-4 and the mount, so you can break the

connection on +Y or -Y as the case may be.





hope this helps,

Mike Connors



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "waelchlih" waelchlisjunk@...> wrote:

>

> Hello group

>

> On my AP600E GTO I have mounted two refractors. One as imager and

the

> other as guiding scope. Both are mounted parallel to each other.

> Imaging is done using a Canon EOS 20DA, Guiding by a SBIG ST-4. The

> setup . on a Baader wooden tripod - is polar aligned using a PASIL3

> and sometimes a follow-up drift alignement. ST-4 parameters are as

> required: EA: 1, B: 1..4, SA:5..7, C1/C2: 30/40, AA: 5. PEM is set

OFF.

>

> My problem: The declination axis starts with sort of sinusoidal

> movement. After the tracking was fine for a certain period of time

> (some seconds to minutes), a small error in DE occurs which must be

> corrected by the ST-4. The ST-4 sends corrections to the mount . but

> this does not react immediately so another correction in the same

> direction is sent over and over . until suddenly the mount reacts

but

> now moves much too far in the required direction. From that moment

on,

> the "game" starts in the opposite direction. ST-4 readings (0.2

pixel

> units . DE is Y) might look as follows:

> . 0, 0, 0, .. -1, -1, -1, -1, -1, -1, 0, -1, -1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 3,

4,

> 4, 5, 4, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0...

> .0, 0, -2, -3, -4, -3,..

> To exclude the effect of DE-backlash I tried with unbalancing the

> setup. This had a positive influence but the described effect still

> existed. I also tried with all the possible compensation features

> (offered by the mount or the ST-4). This caused the overreaction to

be

> worse. Besides of this, the amount of overreaction seems to depend

on

> how often corrections are sent to the mount (longer exposures or

> higher AA values will cause a smother behaviour, "tighter" guiding

> will worsen the effect). Clearly the precision of the polar

alignment

> significantly influences DE guiding precision as well.

>

> There is absolutely no guiding problem in RA.

>

> What might cause this effect? How could it be cured? There is some

> axial play in the DE axis. When the . empty . mount is rotated along

> the RA axis a soft "clog" might be heard when the DE axis points

> towards the ground. Could this have an influence? Is it the somewhat

> stiff lube that becomes even stiffer in colder environments?

>

> Any idea what could help me?

>

> Thank you for your statement . and clear skies!

>

> Hansjoerg

>



----------------------------

#16732 Dec 17, 2006

I bought new this mount and with a number of extras (weights, rings, keypad, polar scope,

etc) and have been waiting 3 years for the 130 scope (no out of production). I'm considering

selling this mount (never used!) for a fair retail price. Anyone can e-mail me for questions or

extra information. I guess I'm off to buy a complete system; AP just can't keep up with all the

parts to put a complete scope together. Thanks.



cardiofuse@...



----------------------------

#16737 Dec 19, 2006

I agree, I just picked up a 600E GOTO and ordered a TV-127. There are

a lot of good scopes out there a TV-127 or TEC 140 are good choices.

So are any of the other scopes mentioned, and none of these have a

long wait time.

Mal





--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Louis Marchesi" lmarchesi@...> wrote:

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "r1300rs" cardiofuse@> wrote:

> >

> > I bought new this mount and with a number of extras (weights,

rings,

> keypad, polar scope,

> > etc) and have been waiting 3 years for the 130 scope (no out of

> production). I'm considering

> > selling this mount (never used!) for a fair retail price. Anyone

> can e-mail me for questions or

> > extra information. I guess I'm off to buy a complete system; AP

> just can't keep up with all the

> > parts to put a complete scope together. Thanks.

> >

> > cardiofuse@

> >

>

> There are scopes in the 130mm size range that are available with

> little to no waiting period, say, like from one of the "three T's"

> (TMB, TEC, Tak), for example. Any of those would make a "complete

system."

>

> If you must have an AP130, perhaps one can be had on the used

market.

> I'd be willing to wager that you'd regret selling the 600.

>

> Regards,

> Louis Marchesi

>







----------------------------

#17047 Feb 3 6:18 PM

Hi guy's



I'm hoping that someone here can tell me If the StarlightExpress

SXV-auto-guider is compatible with the AP600E non goto mount using the

supplied auto-guide cable that comes with the SXV line of CCD?



Cheers



Louie



----------------------------

#17559 Mar 27, 2007

AP GTOI have an AP storage case for my old 600E. Does anyone know if the Mach1GTO with a Dove08 fits?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#18099 May 20, 2007

I'm in the process of buying a Mewlon 250 to go on my 600E, but the

mount is in Colorado (and I'm in Ireland). I'm having the Mewlon

mounting plate sent to me here (the scope itself will go straight to

Colorado), but I need the outer diameter of the dec head, and a brief

description of the mouting holes (I have an extra saddle here so I can

accurately measure the holes -- I'm just not sure which holes in the

saddle line up with holes in the 600's dec head).



Thanks,

-- Jeff.



----------------------------

#18119 May 23, 2007

Hello Jeff,







Bolt circle on 600E Dec head is 1.625"



Dec head outer diameter 4.46"







Mag. 7 skies!







Howard Hedlund



Astro-Physics, Inc.



815-282-1513



---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf

Of Jeff Young

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:09 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head







Bump....





---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On

Behalf Of Jeff Young

Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 10:38 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head







I'm in the process of buying a Mewlon 250 to go on my 600E, but

the

mount is in Colorado (and I'm in Ireland). I'm having the Mewlon



mounting plate sent to me here (the scope itself will go

straight to

Colorado), but I need the outer diameter of the dec head, and a

brief

description of the mouting holes (I have an extra saddle here so

I can

accurately measure the holes -- I'm just not sure which holes in

the

saddle line up with holes in the 600's dec head).



Thanks,

-- Jeff.











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#18122 May 23, 2007

Howard --



Rockin'. Thanks much!



Oh wait... the holes in my Casady saddle that match that spacing are

9/32 (a bit over 7mm). I think I remember the 600 is metric -- so I

assume the saddle cap screws are M6?



Thanks again,

-- Jeff.







---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Howard

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 6:18 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head







Hello Jeff,



Bolt circle on 600E Dec head is 1.625"



Dec head outer diameter 4.46"



Mag. 7 skies!



Howard Hedlund



Astro-Physics, Inc.



815-282-1513



---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On

Behalf

Of Jeff Young

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:09 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head



Bump....



---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On

Behalf Of Jeff Young

Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 10:38 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head



I'm in the process of buying a Mewlon 250 to go on my 600E, but

the

mount is in Colorado (and I'm in Ireland). I'm having the Mewlon



mounting plate sent to me here (the scope itself will go

straight to

Colorado), but I need the outer diameter of the dec head, and a

brief

description of the mouting holes (I have an extra saddle here so

I can

accurately measure the holes -- I'm just not sure which holes in

the

saddle line up with holes in the 600's dec head).



Thanks,

-- Jeff.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#18123 May 23, 2007

Hey Jeff,







M6 is absolutely correct!







Mag. 7 skies!







Howard Hedlund



Astro-Physics, Inc.



815-282-1513



---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf

Of Jeff Young

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:46 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head







Howard --



Rockin'. Thanks much!



Oh wait... the holes in my Casady saddle that match that spacing are

9/32 (a bit over 7mm). I think I remember the 600 is metric -- so I

assume the saddle cap screws are M6?



Thanks again,

-- Jeff.





---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On

Behalf Of Howard

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 6:18 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head







Hello Jeff,



Bolt circle on 600E Dec head is 1.625"



Dec head outer diameter 4.46"



Mag. 7 skies!



Howard Hedlund



Astro-Physics, Inc.



815-282-1513



---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On

Behalf

Of Jeff Young

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 3:09 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: RE: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head



Bump....



---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On

Behalf Of Jeff Young

Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 10:38 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [ap-gto] Dimensions of 600E dec head



I'm in the process of buying a Mewlon 250 to go on my 600E, but

the

mount is in Colorado (and I'm in Ireland). I'm having the Mewlon



mounting plate sent to me here (the scope itself will go

straight to

Colorado), but I need the outer diameter of the dec head, and a

brief

description of the mouting holes (I have an extra saddle here so

I can

accurately measure the holes -- I'm just not sure which holes in

the

saddle line up with holes in the 600's dec head).



Thanks,

-- Jeff.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#18569 Jul 8, 2007

I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the Sun...



www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM



I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

GoTo to find Venus and focus.



But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and then

plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.



The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.



When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.



Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?



Any other ideas?



Thanks,



Jerry



----------------------------

#18570 Jul 8, 2007

Are you sure it wasn't working? It can be virtually impossible to see

the display in daylight. You have to shield the display thoroughly and

really work at seeing it. I suspect that it was working just fine. Try

it again in the bright daylight. To check it out, put it at the bottom

of a moderately deep small box and use your head to block the light

from the opening. You should be able to see the display as your eyes

adjust to the 'darkness'.



Rick.



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

>

>

> I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the Sun...

>

> www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM

>

> I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

> GoTo to find Venus and focus.

>

> But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

> drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

> work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and then

> plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.

>

> The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

> soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.

>

> When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.

>

> Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

>

> Any other ideas?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Jerry

>







----------------------------

#18571 Jul 9, 2007

Hi Rick,



That might be what it was, I will have to try it again today in the sunshine.



I did try to shade it from the sun and cup my hands around it but

still couldn't see it.



I did notice that it beeped when I tried to press the west button.



It is very disappointing if this is the reason. Roland is so worried

about it working at minus 50 degrees, but it's not usable for solar

work in the daytime? That is almost inconceiveable.



Jerry





At 10:37 PM 7/8/2007, you wrote: >Are you sure it wasn't working? It can be virtually impossible to see

>the display in daylight. You have to shield the display thoroughly and

>really work at seeing it. I suspect that it was working just fine. Try

>it again in the bright daylight. To check it out, put it at the bottom

>of a moderately deep small box and use your head to block the light

>from the opening. You should be able to see the display as your eyes

>adjust to the 'darkness'.

>

>Rick.

>

>

>--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

> >

> >

> > I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the Sun...

> >

> > www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM

> >

> > I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

> > GoTo to find Venus and focus.

> >

> > But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

> > drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

> > work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and then

> > plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.

> >

> > The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

> > soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.

> >

> > When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.

> >

> > Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

> >

> > Any other ideas?

> >

> > Thanks,

> >

> > Jerry

> >

>

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>



A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.



----------------------------

#18572 Jul 9, 2007

Hi Jerry,



I don't know about the 600E but I have used my AP900GTO at

temperatures of over 100F and almost 90% humidity without any problem! 8)



Regards

Chris



At 09:40 PM 7/9/2007, you wrote:

>Hi Rick,

>

>That might be what it was, I will have to try it again today in the sunshine.

>

>I did try to shade it from the sun and cup my hands around it but

>still couldn't see it.

>

>I did notice that it beeped when I tried to press the west button.

>

>It is very disappointing if this is the reason. Roland is so worried

>about it working at minus 50 degrees, but it's not usable for solar

>work in the daytime? That is almost inconceiveable.

>

>Jerry

>

>At 10:37 PM 7/8/2007, you wrote:

> >Are you sure it wasn't working? It can be virtually impossible to see

> >the display in daylight. You have to shield the display thoroughly and

> >really work at seeing it. I suspect that it was working just fine. Try

> >it again in the bright daylight. To check it out, put it at the bottom

> >of a moderately deep small box and use your head to block the light

> >from the opening. You should be able to see the display as your eyes

> >adjust to the 'darkness'.

> >

> >Rick.

> >

> >

> >--- In mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,

> Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

> > >

> > >

> > > I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the Sun...

> > >

> > >

> www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM>www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM

> > >

> > > I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

> > > GoTo to find Venus and focus.

> > >

> > > But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

> > > drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

> > > work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and then

> > > plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.

> > >

> > > The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

> > > soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.

> > >

> > > When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.

> > >

> > > Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

> > >

> > > Any other ideas?

> > >

> > > Thanks,

> > >

> > > Jerry

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >see

> groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto>groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

>

>A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

>www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM>www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>.

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#18573 Jul 9, 2007

Hi Chris,



And you didn't have any problem reading the display in the sunshine?



Jerry





At 09:51 AM 7/9/2007, you wrote: >Hi Jerry,

>

>I don't know about the 600E but I have used my AP900GTO at

>temperatures of over 100F and almost 90% humidity without any problem! 8)

>

>Regards

>Chris



----------------------------

#18574 Jul 9, 2007

If it beeped, it was almost certainly working. I did almost the exact

same thing the first time I tried it outside in the daylight. The only

difference was that I was in my backyard and I had another keypad

available to me. I went and got it and when it didn't 'work' either, I

went back inside and powered up the mount in the basement with the

first keypad where I could see the screen just fine. I went back

outside and after much difficulty managed to get the screen into just

enough shade that I could finally see that it was working.

I really don't know what to say. That is just the way the keypad

screen is, too bright at night even on the low setting and far too dim

in the daylight. For my tastes, there should be four settings with an

ultra- dim setting about half as bright as the current dim is, and an

ultra-bright setting at least twice as bright as the regular power-up

setting is. Some nights when I am fully dark adapted, the display

actually seems so bright that it 'hurts' to look at it. I have cut a

piece of red Rubylith to put over the display but seem to lose it

regularly.



Rick.



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Rick,

>

> That might be what it was, I will have to try it again today in the

sunshine.

>

> I did try to shade it from the sun and cup my hands around it but

> still couldn't see it.

>

> I did notice that it beeped when I tried to press the west button.

>

> It is very disappointing if this is the reason. Roland is so worried

> about it working at minus 50 degrees, but it's not usable for solar

> work in the daytime? That is almost inconceiveable.

>

> Jerry

>

>

> At 10:37 PM 7/8/2007, you wrote:

> >Are you sure it wasn't working? It can be virtually impossible to see

> >the display in daylight. You have to shield the display thoroughly and

> >really work at seeing it. I suspect that it was working just fine. Try

> >it again in the bright daylight. To check it out, put it at the bottom

> >of a moderately deep small box and use your head to block the light

> >from the opening. You should be able to see the display as your eyes

> >adjust to the 'darkness'.

> >

> >Rick.

> >

> >

> >--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@> wrote:

> > >

> > >

> > > I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the

Sun...

> > >

> > > www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM

> > >

> > > I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

> > > GoTo to find Venus and focus.

> > >

> > > But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

> > > drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

> > > work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and

then

> > > plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.

> > >

> > > The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

> > > soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.

> > >

> > > When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.

> > >

> > > Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

> > >

> > > Any other ideas?

> > >

> > > Thanks,

> > >

> > > Jerry

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> >see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> >Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

>

> A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

> www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

> .

>



----------------------------

#18575 Jul 9, 2007

Well that's another matter. I had to hide under the hood to be able

to see the display. 8) When I do solar imaging I normally hide in a

hood. I used to be brave before and spent 4 hours solar imaging. I

got heat stroke and almost fainted. I was sick (fever) for almost a week.



Regards,

Chris



At 10:02 PM 7/9/2007, you wrote:



>Hi Chris,

>

>And you didn't have any problem reading the display in the sunshine?

>

>Jerry

>

>At 09:51 AM 7/9/2007, you wrote:

> >Hi Jerry,

> >

> >I don't know about the 600E but I have used my AP900GTO at

> >temperatures of over 100F and almost 90% humidity without any problem! 8)

> >

> >Regards

> >Chris

>

>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#18578 Jul 9, 2007

Hi Rick,



I just took it outside from the garage, and you were right, it was

working, just impossible to see.



Thanks,



Jerry







At 10:08 AM 7/9/2007, you wrote: >If it beeped, it was almost certainly working. I did almost the exact

>same thing the first time I tried it outside in the daylight. The only

>difference was that I was in my backyard and I had another keypad

>available to me. I went and got it and when it didn't 'work' either, I

>went back inside and powered up the mount in the basement with the

>first keypad where I could see the screen just fine. I went back

>outside and after much difficulty managed to get the screen into just

>enough shade that I could finally see that it was working.

> I really don't know what to say. That is just the way the keypad

>screen is, too bright at night even on the low setting and far too dim

>in the daylight. For my tastes, there should be four settings with an

>ultra- dim setting about half as bright as the current dim is, and an

>ultra-bright setting at least twice as bright as the regular power-up

>setting is. Some nights when I am fully dark adapted, the display

>actually seems so bright that it 'hurts' to look at it. I have cut a

>piece of red Rubylith to put over the display but seem to lose it

>regularly.

>

>Rick.

>

>

>--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Rick,

> >

> > That might be what it was, I will have to try it again today in the

>sunshine.

> >

> > I did try to shade it from the sun and cup my hands around it but

> > still couldn't see it.

> >

> > I did notice that it beeped when I tried to press the west button.

> >

> > It is very disappointing if this is the reason. Roland is so worried

> > about it working at minus 50 degrees, but it's not usable for solar

> > work in the daytime? That is almost inconceiveable.

> >

> > Jerry

> >

> >

> > At 10:37 PM 7/8/2007, you wrote:

> > >Are you sure it wasn't working? It can be virtually impossible to see

> > >the display in daylight. You have to shield the display thoroughly and

> > >really work at seeing it. I suspect that it was working just fine. Try

> > >it again in the bright daylight. To check it out, put it at the bottom

> > >of a moderately deep small box and use your head to block the light

> > >from the opening. You should be able to see the display as your eyes

> > >adjust to the 'darkness'.

> > >

> > >Rick.

> > >

> > >

> > >--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Lodriguss lists5@> wrote:

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the

>Sun...

> > > >

> > > > www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM

> > > >

> > > > I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

> > > > GoTo to find Venus and focus.

> > > >

> > > > But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

> > > > drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

> > > > work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and

>then

> > > > plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.

> > > >

> > > > The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

> > > > soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.

> > > >

> > > > When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.

> > > >

> > > > Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

> > > >

> > > > Any other ideas?

> > > >

> > > > Thanks,

> > > >

> > > > Jerry

> > > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> > >see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> > >Yahoo! Groups Links

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> > A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

> > www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> > .

> >

>

>

>

>

>To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

>Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>



A Guide to Astrophotography with Digital SLR Cameras

www.astropix.com/GADC/GADC.HTM

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.



----------------------------

#18581 Jul 9, 2007

I wonder if something like a small piece of the Rubylith red cellophane laptop

screen cover, we use to preserve night vision, would work equally well on the

pad display in bright sunshine. If so, a snap on filter for the pad would be a

good option, for those doing daytime astronomy.



Joe



----- Original Message -----

From: chris1011@...>

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 10:44 AM

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] 600E Temp Operating Range





> In a message dated 7/8/2007 8:10:25 PM Central Daylight Time,

> lists5@... writes:

>

>

>> Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

>

> No, that is quite cool.

>

>>

>> Any other ideas?

>

> I bet it was working, but you could not read the screen because it was

> bright

> out. The display is not bright enough to see during full sunlight. Try

> shading it with a dark cloth during the day.

>

> Rolando

>

>

> **************************************

> See what's free at

> www.aol.com

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#18582 Jul 9, 2007

... Who was that masked man

next to his white scope "Silver" :-)



Joe

----- Original Message -----

From: "Philip Perkins" ppml2@...>

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 10:59 AM

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Re: 600E Temp Operating Range





> Hi Jerry,

>

> The handcontroller screen is very hard to read in broad daylight -

> becomes impossible in bright sunlight. You need one of those hoods

> that they used in the old days with plate cameras! :-)

>

> This is me trying to set up for Eclipse '99 - nowhere near bright sun

> but the screen was still impossible to read. Please don't larf *too*

> loudly! :-)

> www.astrocruise.com/e99pre3.jpg

>

> Philip

> --



----------------------------

#18584 Jul 9, 2007

Fantastic Jerry, Well done!



jg



-----Original Message----- >From: Jerry Lodriguss lists5@...>

>Sent: Jul 8, 2007 6:10 PM

>To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

>Subject: [ap-gto] 600E Temp Operating Range

>

>

>I used my AP 600E GTO mount today to shoot an ISS transit of the Sun...

>

>www.astropix.com/HTML/SHOW_DIG/055.HTM

>

>I had planned on doing a daytime polar alignment, and then using the

>GoTo to find Venus and focus.

>

>But when I arrived at the remote observing site and plugged in the

>drive and electronics for the mount, the hand controller wouldn't

>work. The mount tracked, but no hand controller. I unplugged and then

>plugged in all the cables again, but no luck.

>

>The ambient temperature at the site was 92F, but it didn't work as

>soon as it came out of the air-conditioned jeep.

>

>When I plugged it in when I got back home, in the garage, it worked.

>

>Is 92F outside of the operating range for the hand controller?

>

>Any other ideas?

>

>Thanks,

>

>Jerry

>



----------------------------

#18664 Jul 21, 2007

I have an AP 600E GTO mount. My understanding is that the AP mounts

do not like it when the voltage of the DC power source, such as the

60 amp-hour deep-cycle battery that I have, drops below 12 volts.



Someone has suggested using a car power adapter for a laptop battery

that has adjustable output voltage because it provides constant voltage output.



The idea would be to use this adapter between the 12 volt deep-cycle

battery and the mount with the adapter set to output 15 or 18 volts.



I sometimes use the mount at remote locations where the temperature

can be below freezing on a winter night that can last 10 hours.



I would be running the mount, ST-4 autoguider and anti-dewers all

night long, so at the end of the night in the past with my Losmandy

mount, I know the voltage has dropped way down below 10 volts but the

mount kept working. I doubt that the AP mount will do the same.



So, is this a good idea to use this kind of adapter with the AP 600

mount under these circumstances?



I don't know anything about electricity. So, what happens if the

voltage is held constant under this kind of use... does the amperage

(is that current?) drop? Would this affect the mount?



Thanks,



Jerry



----------------------------

#19426 Oct 16, 2007

Hi all



I'm using an AP600E GTO (GTOCP2 Rev. D). When "playing" 'round with

the eval version of pempro I did never succeed to upload an aquired

and processed curve to the mount. As CCDWare states in the help, using

an AP mount, one does not have to start the recording _at the mount_

as this seems to be done by pempro. Is this true? Or do I have to

start the recording also at the keyped? After my trials I activated

pem from within pempro - but the hand controller always said "PEM

status off".



What am I doing wrong?



Thanks for info - and clear skies!



Hansjoerg



----------------------------

#19427 Oct 16, 2007

In a message dated 10/16/2007 9:49:47 AM Central Daylight Time,

waelchlisjunk@... writes:



> After my trials I activated

> pem from within pempro - but the hand controller always said "PEM

> status off".

>



The keypad (hand controller) and your computer (PEMPRO) are two different

accessories the do not talk to each other. They only talk to the servo. Therefore

one accessory control software does not know what you have done in another

accessory software. All accessory software programs are totally independent as

far as the mount servo is concerned (that includes planetarium programs and

camera control software).



Rolando





**************************************

See what's new at

www.aol.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#19428 Oct 16, 2007

I'm using an AP600E GTO (GTOCP2 Rev. D). When "playing" 'round with

> the eval version of pempro I did never succeed to upload an aquired

> and processed curve to the mount. As CCDWare states in the help, using

> an AP mount, one does not have to start the recording _at the mount_

> as this seems to be done by pempro. Is this true? Or do I have to

> start the recording also at the keyped?



Yes, PEMPro will automatically start recording when you start playback on an

AP mount.



But remember in case you stop programming before it is finished that you

will have to still wait the full 6+ minutes before the mount will accept

another PEM record command if you start another playback.



-Ray Gralak

Author of PEMPro







----------------------------

#19429 Oct 16, 2007

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@... wrote:

So the keypad doesn't poll the gtocp2-controller when I enter the

"command" Tools/PEM for querying the PEM state of the mount after

having programmed it using pempro?



>

> In a message dated 10/16/2007 9:49:47 AM Central Daylight Time,

> waelchlisjunk@... writes:

>

>

> > After my trials I activated

> > pem from within pempro - but the hand controller always said "PEM

> > status off".

> >

>

> The keypad (hand controller) and your computer (PEMPRO) are two

different

> accessories the do not talk to each other. They only talk to the

servo. Therefore

> one accessory control software does not know what you have done in

another

> accessory software. All accessory software programs are totally

independent as

> far as the mount servo is concerned (that includes planetarium

programs and

> camera control software).

>

> Rolando

>

>

> **************************************

> See what's new at

> www.aol.com

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#19430 Oct 16, 2007

Ray



Thank you for that info. This is a good hint.



Let's see if I will manage today. The telescope is capturing data

outside just now...



Clear Skies



Hansj.rg --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Gralak" rgr@...> wrote:

>

> > I'm using an AP600E GTO (GTOCP2 Rev. D). When "playing" 'round with

> > the eval version of pempro I did never succeed to upload an aquired

> > and processed curve to the mount. As CCDWare states in the help, using

> > an AP mount, one does not have to start the recording _at the mount_

> > as this seems to be done by pempro. Is this true? Or do I have to

> > start the recording also at the keyped?

>

> Yes, PEMPro will automatically start recording when you start

playback on an

> AP mount.

>

> But remember in case you stop programming before it is finished that you

> will have to still wait the full 6+ minutes before the mount will accept

> another PEM record command if you start another playback.

>

> -Ray Gralak

> Author of PEMPro

>



----------------------------

#19431 Oct 16, 2007

In a message dated 10/16/2007 3:01:17 PM Central Daylight Time,

waelchlisjunk@... writes:



> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@... wrote:

> So the keypad doesn't poll the gtocp2-controller when I enter the

> "command" Tools/PEM for querying the PEM state of the mount after

> having programmed it using pempro?

>



No, the keypad does not polling at all. It is silent. The only time it does

any polling is if you put it into Digital Setting Circle mode. Then, you will

notice that you cannot do anything else because the circuit is busy polling and

showing you where the scope is pointing from one moment to the next. The

keypad is not a full fleged computer. The micro has very limited performance.

That's the primary reason it does not control the motors and other functions of

the mount, and why the main brains of the mount is actually in the servo. The

keypad is a database and deep sky library and is meant to look up data and send

it to the mount. It also has a clock in it, which keeps time and allows the

mount to know what the above RA hour angle is at any time.



Rolando





**************************************

See what's new at

www.aol.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#20486 Dec 28, 2007

I'm just wondering if anyone out there has had any experience with

this particular combination and whether the 600e is up to supporting a

C11 for visual work.



Thanks!



Mark



----------------------------

#20489 Dec 29, 2007

"mpbrada" mpbrada@...> wrote: >

> I'm just wondering if anyone out there has had any experience with

> this particular combination and whether the 600e is up to supporting a

> C11 for visual work.



It should handle the C-11 just fine.



Paul Gustafson



----------------------------

#20493 Dec 29, 2007

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "mpbrada" mpbrada@...> wrote: >

> I'm just wondering if anyone out there has had any experience with

> this particular combination and whether the 600e is up to supporting a

> C11 for visual work.



I use a C11 on a 600E and it is fine for visual use as long as it is

well balanced.



Dan



----------------------------

#20496 Dec 29, 2007

Thanks, Dan!

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "d_ankeney" 3spencer2@...> wrote:

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "mpbrada" mpbrada@> wrote:

> >

> > I'm just wondering if anyone out there has had any experience with

> > this particular combination and whether the 600e is up to supporting a

> > C11 for visual work.

>

> I use a C11 on a 600E and it is fine for visual use as long as it is

> well balanced.

>

> Dan

>







----------------------------

#21509 Apr 3, 2008

Hi gang,



Sorry for any cross-posts from the ASCOM group, but here's my problem:



I've recently acquired a 600E GTO CP2 (D chip series) and cannot

connect to it through any ASCOM platforms. I used to use MaxPoint,

PEMPro, etc. with my Gemini, but for some reason, I'm unable to connect

through either program using the AP GTO Mount selection. I AM able to

successfully link PulseGuide--so (I believe) my serial connection is

fine.... I'm stumped... I've updated to ASCOM 5a and installed the AP

driver v 4.1.25. Is the older mount just not able to be controlled

this way??



Thanks!



Bob



----------------------------

#21556 Apr 6, 2008

I just posted some pics of my new setup, a Questar 7 OTA on an AP600E

mount. The Q7 is a beautiful performer: it has enhanced silver

coatings like the new 50th anniversary scopes, and gives super high

resolution views of double stars and planets. The 600E is a new

acquisition; seems to be at the limiting edge holding this long focal

length (and heavy at 25lbs) OTA, but it seems to be doing fine under

good conditions - I've only had it out briefly as I await good weather

this week here near New York City.

Morgan



----------------------------

#21617 Apr 9, 2008

Hi folks,



I'm wondering if the result I'm seeing is "normal" with my recently

acquired 600E (while I wait for a 900 or Mach1 g>). I've uploaded

an Excel file to the Files section for those who might be able to

help.



PEMPro gave a +/- 25" error--which stunned me... It does seem that

the worm is running slow(?) for the majority of the run. Any ideas

as to what I'm seeing here?



The mount's carrying an 8" M806, Pyxis rotator, and ST8. Probably

right around 27 pounds--so probably overloading a bit, but I believe

it's pretty well balanced. Other than the PE concern, though, the

mount ran great last night and guided fairly well after programming

(was able to get it down to +/- 8", but need to run a few more curves

to refine--maybe I can get better).



Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!





Thanks,

Bob



----------------------------

#21618 Apr 9, 2008

Dans un e-mail dat. du 09/04/2008 18:23:58 Paris, Madrid,

bobbenamati@... a .crit :



PEMPro gave a +/- 25" error--which stunned me... It does seem that

the worm is running slow(?) for the majority of the run. Any ideas

as to what I'm seeing here?







Are you sure your parameters (focal length...) were OK?



In any case, your curve is smooth, so PEM should work fine with your mount,

much better than a small PE that shows sudden jumps.



Gilles













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#21619 Apr 9, 2008

Thanks, Gilles. Yea, programming did bring it down pretty well and the guider kept up with it rather well.



The scale was right (1.45"/pixel), so the data, I believe, is pretty accurate.



Take care,

Bob



www.pennastroimaging.com ----- Original Message -----

From: gilovision2@...

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 12:30 PM

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] 600E PE "Normal"???







Dans un e-mail dat. du 09/04/2008 18:23:58 Paris, Madrid,

bobbenamati@... a .crit :



PEMPro gave a +/- 25" error--which stunned me... It does seem that

the worm is running slow(?) for the majority of the run. Any ideas

as to what I'm seeing here?



Are you sure your parameters (focal length...) were OK?



In any case, your curve is smooth, so PEM should work fine with your mount,

much better than a small PE that shows sudden jumps.



Gilles



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#22594 Aug 11, 2008

My 600E GTO is getting hung up on startup. When it powers up, the hand

paddle reads "Astro-Physics, Ver: 4.12" but does not proceed beyond

that point, and the paddle is unresponsive.



The mount is set up for external PC control, so normally the paddle

would proceed to the message "waiting for external startup" or

something like that, but it isn't getting that far.



The paddle is a GTO-1, SN 2419GTO 2707.



Control panel is a GTOCP2.



Figured I'd pulse the group before calling AP. Thanks for any thoughts.



Craig



----------------------------

#22597 Aug 11, 2008

Good chance the hand controller battery needs replacement.







Steve







_____



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of

cosmicdenizen

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 11:46 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] 600E GTO fails to start







My 600E GTO is getting hung up on startup. When it powers up, the hand

paddle reads "Astro-Physics, Ver: 4.12" but does not proceed beyond

that point, and the paddle is unresponsive.



The mount is set up for external PC control, so normally the paddle

would proceed to the message "waiting for external startup" or

something like that, but it isn't getting that far.



The paddle is a GTO-1, SN 2419GTO 2707.



Control panel is a GTOCP2.



Figured I'd pulse the group before calling AP. Thanks for any thoughts.



Craig











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#22598 Aug 11, 2008

Craig,

Please check the troubleshooting section of the Keypad Manual in the

technical support area of our website. Quick link:

www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/keypad_v412.pdf



The keypad locks up on the "Astro-Physics" screen and will not advance

to the next screen.



There are several conditions that may cause this to occur.



* Battery power has dropped. If you measure the output of your battery

to be above 11.5V, but the keypad is locking up, please contact

Astro-Physics. If your battery measures below 11.5V, recharge or replace

your battery.



* Recent lightning strike or power surge damaged components in the

control box. The control box will have to be returned to Astro-Physics.

Please call ahead for a return authorization number.



* Other unknown chip failure in the control box. Contact Astro-Physics.



* The keypad was loaded with version 4.12 with Auto-Connect set to yes

and keypad was not reset to default values. This may have occurred

during programming at Astro-Physics or following an internet download

before this issue was discovered. To remedy, refer to the Technical

Support section of the website and read the revised instructions

pertaining to the 4.12 upgrade.



* Keypad locks up in cold weather but works fine when used in warmer

temperatures. This is a rare problem caused by a defective real-time

clock in the keypad. Contact Astro-Physics.



* Corroded circuit board in the keypad.



Marj Christen

Astro-Physics, Inc

11250 Forest Hills Road

Machesney Park, IL 61115

Phone: 815-282-1513

Fax: 815-282-9847

www.astro-physics.com

Please include this e-mail with your response.







---------------



From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf

Of cosmicdenizen

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 10:46 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] 600E GTO fails to start







My 600E GTO is getting hung up on startup. When it powers up, the hand

paddle reads "Astro-Physics, Ver: 4.12" but does not proceed beyond

that point, and the paddle is unresponsive.



The mount is set up for external PC control, so normally the paddle

would proceed to the message "waiting for external startup" or

something like that, but it isn't getting that far.



The paddle is a GTO-1, SN 2419GTO 2707.



Control panel is a GTOCP2.



Figured I'd pulse the group before calling AP. Thanks for any thoughts.



Craig













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#22612 Aug 12, 2008

Marj - thanks - sorry for question addressed in docs. Craig



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Marj" marj@...> wrote:

>

> Craig,

> Please check the troubleshooting section of the Keypad Manual in the

> technical support area of our website. Quick link:

> www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/keypad_v412.pdf

>

> The keypad locks up on the "Astro-Physics" screen and will not advance

> to the next screen.

>

> There are several conditions that may cause this to occur.

>

> * Battery power has dropped. If you measure the output of your battery

> to be above 11.5V, but the keypad is locking up, please contact

> Astro-Physics. If your battery measures below 11.5V, recharge or replace

> your battery.

>

> * Recent lightning strike or power surge damaged components in the

> control box. The control box will have to be returned to Astro-Physics.

> Please call ahead for a return authorization number.

>

> * Other unknown chip failure in the control box. Contact Astro-Physics.

>

> * The keypad was loaded with version 4.12 with Auto-Connect set to yes

> and keypad was not reset to default values. This may have occurred

> during programming at Astro-Physics or following an internet download

> before this issue was discovered. To remedy, refer to the Technical

> Support section of the website and read the revised instructions

> pertaining to the 4.12 upgrade.

>

> * Keypad locks up in cold weather but works fine when used in warmer

> temperatures. This is a rare problem caused by a defective real-time

> clock in the keypad. Contact Astro-Physics.

>

> * Corroded circuit board in the keypad.

>

> Marj Christen

> Astro-Physics, Inc

> 11250 Forest Hills Road

> Machesney Park, IL 61115

> Phone: 815-282-1513

> Fax: 815-282-9847

> www.astro-physics.com

> Please include this e-mail with your response.

>

>

>

---------------

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf

> Of cosmicdenizen

> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 10:46 AM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] 600E GTO fails to start

>

>

>

> My 600E GTO is getting hung up on startup. When it powers up, the hand

> paddle reads "Astro-Physics, Ver: 4.12" but does not proceed beyond

> that point, and the paddle is unresponsive.

>

> The mount is set up for external PC control, so normally the paddle

> would proceed to the message "waiting for external startup" or

> something like that, but it isn't getting that far.

>

> The paddle is a GTO-1, SN 2419GTO 2707.

>

> Control panel is a GTOCP2.

>

> Figured I'd pulse the group before calling AP. Thanks for any thoughts.

>

> Craig

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#22613 Aug 12, 2008

Thanks, Steve. Just to make sure I understand, I assume you are

referring to an external 12v power source, as I don't believe there is

actually a battery in the hand controller?



Craig

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Reilly" sreilly@...> wrote:

>

> Good chance the hand controller battery needs replacement.

>

>

>

> Steve

>

>

>

> _____

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of

> cosmicdenizen

> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 11:46 AM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] 600E GTO fails to start

>

>

>

> My 600E GTO is getting hung up on startup. When it powers up, the hand

> paddle reads "Astro-Physics, Ver: 4.12" but does not proceed beyond

> that point, and the paddle is unresponsive.

>

> The mount is set up for external PC control, so normally the paddle

> would proceed to the message "waiting for external startup" or

> something like that, but it isn't getting that far.

>

> The paddle is a GTO-1, SN 2419GTO 2707.

>

> Control panel is a GTOCP2.

>

> Figured I'd pulse the group before calling AP. Thanks for any thoughts.

>

> Craig

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#22615 Aug 12, 2008

In a message dated 8/12/08 10:06:25 PM, iau461@... writes:



> as I don't believe there is

> actually a battery in the hand controller?

>



There is definitely a battery in the hand controller.

Its failure is usually associated with a corrupted database.



Kent Kirkley





**************

Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in

your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.



(autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#26260 Nov 20, 2009

I have just bought a 600E in pristine condition and I have a few questions.

How is the accuracy of the RA drive train? I haven't been able to find any references to this.

What would be the best way to get decent GOTO when you are in the field?

I understand that there is no modeling capabilities but would the polar scope alignment be good enough? If not, would getting tpoint allow quick set up?

I used to image with a 5" f/8 Starfire on a G11, and usually the polar alignment scope allowed 45 minutes guided shots with no field rotation. It was not goto though.



One other thing, is there a way to search here? It seems any search will only display the first page of results.



Thanks!



----------------------------

#26284 Nov 23, 2009

Nobody know?



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "tomb1818" tomb1818@...> wrote:

>

> I have just bought a 600E in pristine condition and I have a few questions.

> How is the accuracy of the RA drive train? I haven't been able to find any references to this.

> What would be the best way to get decent GOTO when you are in the field?

> I understand that there is no modeling capabilities but would the polar scope alignment be good enough? If not, would getting tpoint allow quick set up?

> I used to image with a 5" f/8 Starfire on a G11, and usually the polar alignment scope allowed 45 minutes guided shots with no field rotation. It was not goto though.

>

> One other thing, is there a way to search here? It seems any search will only display the first page of results.

>

> Thanks!

>



----------------------------

#26304 Nov 24, 2009

Hi Jeff,

Do you just set it up with the polar scope and start using it? Or do you do a 2 star alignment?



Thanks

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Young jey@...> wrote:

>

> Tom --

>

> Well, I don't image, so I can't answer many of your questions. But I do use GoTo, and aligning via the polar scope works fine for that.

>

> -- Jeff.

>

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tomb1818

> Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 3:22 AM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] Re: "New" AP 600E Gotocp2

>

>

>

> Nobody know?

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, "tomb1818" tomb1818@> wrote:

> >

> > I have just bought a 600E in pristine condition and I have a few questions.

> > How is the accuracy of the RA drive train? I haven't been able to find any references to this.

> > What would be the best way to get decent GOTO when you are in the field?

> > I understand that there is no modeling capabilities but would the polar scope alignment be good enough? If not, would getting tpoint allow quick set up?

> > I used to image with a 5" f/8 Starfire on a G11, and usually the polar alignment scope allowed 45 minutes guided shots with no field rotation. It was not goto though.

> >

> > One other thing, is there a way to search here? It seems any search will only display the first page of results.

> >

> > Thanks!

> >

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#26314 Nov 25, 2009

Can anyone suggest a good power supply (battery) for powering these two components for imaging? The AP takes a max of 1.2A and I think the STL11000 takes 1.5A but I am not sure.

I would like about 8 hours on a full charge (wishful thinking!)

Is it best to power both from 12V or use a DC to AC converter?



Thanks



----------------------------

#26315 Nov 25, 2009

Can anyone suggest a good power supply (battery) for powering these two components for imaging? The AP takes a max of 1.2A and I think the STL11000 takes 1.5A but I am not sure.

I would like about 8 hours on a full charge (wishful thinking!)

Is it best to power both from 12V or use a DC to AC converter?

Should I taker the 12V from the gotocp2 panel?





Thanks



----------------------------

#26316 Nov 25, 2009

Don't forget your laptop, most likely will not get 8 hours out of the built

in battery. And depending on your location you may need a dew control

system too.



The mount draws the least really so a good jump start battery pack might be

plenty for it, and keep the slew speeds low to conserve. I would not put the

camera on the same battery as the laptop and dew controller. When I did

complete battery operation I did 3 batteries. Make sure you turn off the

built in battery charger on the laptop as that draws a lot of power. And

use a 12 volt adapter for it, the inverters are not efficient.



Might have to try different things to see what you can get by with but

nothing worse than to run out of juice in the middle of the night. If you

are at a really remote site you might consider a small quiet Honda generator

as a backup.



Dean







----- Original Message -----

From: "tomb1818" tomb1818@...>

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 8:16 PM

Subject: [ap-gto] AP 600e + STL11000 Pwer requirements for the field?





> Can anyone suggest a good power supply (battery) for powering these two

> components for imaging? The AP takes a max of 1.2A and I think the

> STL11000 takes 1.5A but I am not sure.

> I would like about 8 hours on a full charge (wishful thinking!)

> Is it best to power both from 12V or use a DC to AC converter?

> Should I taker the 12V from the gotocp2 panel?

>

>

> Thanks

>

>

>

---------------

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>





---------------







No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 8.5.426 / Virus Database: 270.14.83/2526 - Release Date: 11/25/09

19:43:00



----------------------------

#26318 Nov 27, 2009

It also depends on the temperature you have at your observing site



I started with 2 car batteries some years ago ... now I have 4 car

batteries (2 x 60 Ah and 2 x 100 Ah), because during long winter night

(10 hours duration) I may have -10.C.



In summer, 3 batteries are enough.



This for an STL11000 + dew heater + laptop + mount. My laptop draws

certainly a lot of power :-(

I use a DC/DC convertor for the laptop, it seems to be efficient.

Otherwise, all other equipement is on 12VDC.



Christian



Dean S a .crit : > Don't forget your laptop, most likely will not get 8 hours out of the built

> in battery. And depending on your location you may need a dew control

> system too.

>

> The mount draws the least really so a good jump start battery pack might be

> plenty for it, and keep the slew speeds low to conserve. I would not put the

> camera on the same battery as the laptop and dew controller. When I did

> complete battery operation I did 3 batteries. Make sure you turn off the

> built in battery charger on the laptop as that draws a lot of power. And

> use a 12 volt adapter for it, the inverters are not efficient.

>

> Might have to try different things to see what you can get by with but

> nothing worse than to run out of juice in the middle of the night. If you

> are at a really remote site you might consider a small quiet Honda generator

> as a backup.

>

> Dean

>

>

>

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "tomb1818" tomb1818@...>

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 8:16 PM

> Subject: [ap-gto] AP 600e + STL11000 Pwer requirements for the field?

>

>

>> Can anyone suggest a good power supply (battery) for powering these two

>> components for imaging? The AP takes a max of 1.2A and I think the

>> STL11000 takes 1.5A but I am not sure.

>> I would like about 8 hours on a full charge (wishful thinking!)

>> Is it best to power both from 12V or use a DC to AC converter?

>> Should I taker the 12V from the gotocp2 panel?

>>

>>

>> Thanks

>>

>>

>>

---------------

>>

>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

>> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links

>>

>>

>>

>

>

---------------

>

>

>

> No virus found in this incoming message.

> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

> Version: 8.5.426 / Virus Database: 270.14.83/2526 - Release Date: 11/25/09

> 19:43:00

>

>

>

---------------

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>







----------------------------

#26319 Nov 27, 2009

Tom --



If I'm viewing the planets (and only need tracking), I don't even bother to align it. I just make sure Polaris is somewhere in the polar scope's field.



For deepsky (where I'm using GoTo), I just align it with the polarscope. Then I put it in Park position 1 (with a cheap and cheerful bubble level), GoTo a bright star, and do a rcal on it.



-- Jeff.





From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tomb1818

Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 3:21 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] Re: "New" AP 600E Gotocp2







Hi Jeff,

Do you just set it up with the polar scope and start using it? Or do you do a 2 star alignment?



Thanks

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, Jeff Young jey@...> wrote:

>

> Tom --

>

> Well, I don't image, so I can't answer many of your questions. But I do use GoTo, and aligning via the polar scope works fine for that.

>

> -- Jeff.

>

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of tomb1818

> Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 3:22 AM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

> Subject: [ap-gto] Re: "New" AP 600E Gotocp2

>

>

>

> Nobody know?

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, "tomb1818" tomb1818@> wrote:

> >

> > I have just bought a 600E in pristine condition and I have a few questions.

> > How is the accuracy of the RA drive train? I haven't been able to find any references to this.

> > What would be the best way to get decent GOTO when you are in the field?

> > I understand that there is no modeling capabilities but would the polar scope alignment be good enough? If not, would getting tpoint allow quick set up?

> > I used to image with a 5" f/8 Starfire on a G11, and usually the polar alignment scope allowed 45 minutes guided shots with no field rotation. It was not goto though.

> >

> > One other thing, is there a way to search here? It seems any search will only display the first page of results.

> >

> > Thanks!

> >

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#26326 Nov 27, 2009

That's sort of what I thought.

I guess many of the people here need sub-minute pointing accuracy...but who can blame them! They bought the best after all!



I guess though, ultimately, I will need to get the alignment quite good. I plan on imaging with a STL11000 and a fsq106. Quite wide field, and the exposures will be pretty long in h alpha. Thus I will need to keep the rotation pretty low.



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Young jey@...> wrote:

>

> Tom --

>

> If I'm viewing the planets (and only need tracking), I don't even bother to align it. I just make sure Polaris is somewhere in the polar scope's field.

>

> For deepsky (where I'm using GoTo), I just align it with the polarscope. Then I put it in Park position 1 (with a cheap and cheerful bubble level), GoTo a bright star, and do a rcal on it.

>

> -- Jeff.

>

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tomb1818

> Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 3:21 AM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] Re: "New" AP 600E Gotocp2

>

>

>

> Hi Jeff,

> Do you just set it up with the polar scope and start using it? Or do you do a 2 star alignment?

>

> Thanks

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, Jeff Young jey@> wrote:

> >

> > Tom --

> >

> > Well, I don't image, so I can't answer many of your questions. But I do use GoTo, and aligning via the polar scope works fine for that.

> >

> > -- Jeff.

> >

> >

> > From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of tomb1818

> > Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 3:22 AM

> > To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

> > Subject: [ap-gto] Re: "New" AP 600E Gotocp2

> >

> >

> >

> > Nobody know?

> >

> > --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, "tomb1818" tomb1818@> wrote:

> > >

> > > I have just bought a 600E in pristine condition and I have a few questions.

> > > How is the accuracy of the RA drive train? I haven't been able to find any references to this.

> > > What would be the best way to get decent GOTO when you are in the field?

> > > I understand that there is no modeling capabilities but would the polar scope alignment be good enough? If not, would getting tpoint allow quick set up?

> > > I used to image with a 5" f/8 Starfire on a G11, and usually the polar alignment scope allowed 45 minutes guided shots with no field rotation. It was not goto though.

> > >

> > > One other thing, is there a way to search here? It seems any search will only display the first page of results.

> > >

> > > Thanks!

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#32481 Aug 2, 2011

Hi,



I have a AP600E GTO with CP2. Since unfortunately CP2 drop from my tripod it remained damaged and I no longer can use it.



A kind friend lended me his old CP1 perfectly running with his AP900 but using my AP600 it doesn't work well.



In fact using it as per the AP instruction sheet (www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/previous/servo/GTOCP1-2008-09-11.pdf) with left plug of the cable, only the Dec keypad keys run (but moving the Ar axis!), but AR keys don't work! Instead using the right plug-in only the AR keypad keys run (but moving the Dec axis!)



What is happening? Somebody has the answer? Which is the remedy?



Here in Italy nobody know anything ...



I strongly hope you can help me.



Thanks

Regards



Alberto



----------------------------

#32484 Aug 2, 2011

Hi Alberto,



I am sorry, but you will not be able to use the GTOCP1 from a 900GTO mount with your 600EGTO. The control boxes for the large mounts and the small mounts are wired differently internally. The version for the 900GTO and 1200GTO is wired with receptacles on each side for the separate R.A. and Dec. cables. The version for the 400GTO and 600EGTO is wired with all the R.A./Dec.connections in the receptacle on the side nearest the RS232 ports.



There are additional issues as well. The 900GTO's control box may have the wrong chip inside, depending on the gearboxes used on the motors of your 600EGTO. Finally, there are some dip switches that would need to be changed, but that part would not be too difficult compared to everything else.



There was a GTOCP2 for sale on AstroMart at a very reasonable price a few days ago. I do not know if it is still available, but it might be your best alternative if you do not wish to have the old unit repaired or purchase a new GTOCP3.



I might be able to provide a bit more help if you send me the mount's serial number. Also, please look inside the damaged GTOCP2 and find the version of the EPROM chip that is inside. The version will either be a single letter from A to E, or else will have two letters - the first being a K, and the second being a letter from A to E. For example, it might be a "B" or it could be a "KD" or something like that. It might also have no label at all, which also tells us something about the chip.



Mag. 7 Skies!



Howard Hedlund

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone: 815-282-1513

www.astro-physics.comwww.astro-physics.com/>

Please include this e-mail with your response.



P Consider the environment before printing this e-mail.





From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of caelumstellatum@...

Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 5:32 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] CP1 AP600E GTO compatibility







Hi,



I have a AP600E GTO with CP2. Since unfortunately CP2 drop from my tripod it remained damaged and I no longer can use it.



A kind friend lended me his old CP1 perfectly running with his AP900 but using my AP600 it doesn't work well.



In fact using it as per the AP instruction sheet (www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/previous/servo/GTOCP1-2008-09-11.pdf) with left plug of the cable, only the Dec keypad keys run (but moving the Ar axis!), but AR keys don't work! Instead using the right plug-in only the AR keypad keys run (but moving the Dec axis!)



What is happening? Somebody has the answer? Which is the remedy?



Here in Italy nobody know anything ...



I strongly hope you can help me.



Thanks

Regards



Alberto







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32519 Aug 3, 2011

Hi Howard,



Thank you very much for kind reply and full explanation about that!



Do you think in AP factory could be still available any old electronic parts for CP1 for AP600E or one complete?



I'm a new user here ... can I place a request via a new post to ask if somebody hold a CP1 for AP600 and could sell to me?



Thx again



Alberto



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Howard howard@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Alberto,

>

> I am sorry, but you will not be able to use the GTOCP1 from a 900GTO mount with your 600EGTO. The control boxes for the large mounts and the small mounts are wired differently internally. The version for the 900GTO and 1200GTO is wired with receptacles on each side for the separate R.A. and Dec. cables. The version for the 400GTO and 600EGTO is wired with all the R.A./Dec.connections in the receptacle on the side nearest the RS232 ports.

>

> There are additional issues as well. The 900GTO's control box may have the wrong chip inside, depending on the gearboxes used on the motors of your 600EGTO. Finally, there are some dip switches that would need to be changed, but that part would not be too difficult compared to everything else.

>

> There was a GTOCP2 for sale on AstroMart at a very reasonable price a few days ago. I do not know if it is still available, but it might be your best alternative if you do not wish to have the old unit repaired or purchase a new GTOCP3.

>

> I might be able to provide a bit more help if you send me the mount's serial number. Also, please look inside the damaged GTOCP2 and find the version of the EPROM chip that is inside. The version will either be a single letter from A to E, or else will have two letters - the first being a K, and the second being a letter from A to E. For example, it might be a "B" or it could be a "KD" or something like that. It might also have no label at all, which also tells us something about the chip.

>

> Mag. 7 Skies!

>

> Howard Hedlund

> Astro-Physics, Inc.

> Phone: 815-282-1513

> www.astro-physics.comwww.astro-physics.com/>

> Please include this e-mail with your response.

>

> P Consider the environment before printing this e-mail.

>

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of caelumstellatum@...

> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 5:32 PM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] CP1 AP600E GTO compatibility

>

>

>

> Hi,

>

> I have a AP600E GTO with CP2. Since unfortunately CP2 drop from my tripod it remained damaged and I no longer can use it.

>

> A kind friend lended me his old CP1 perfectly running with his AP900 but using my AP600 it doesn't work well.

>

> In fact using it as per the AP instruction sheet (www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/previous/servo/GTOCP1-2008-09-11.pdf) with left plug of the cable, only the Dec keypad keys run (but moving the Ar axis!), but AR keys don't work! Instead using the right plug-in only the AR keypad keys run (but moving the Dec axis!)

>

> What is happening? Somebody has the answer? Which is the remedy?

>

> Here in Italy nobody know anything ...

>

> I strongly hope you can help me.

>

> Thanks

> Regards

>

> Alberto

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#32520 Aug 3, 2011

Hi Alberto,



It is quite likely that we can repair your GTOCP2. Do you have any idea what is wrong with it? Can you send me any photos that show the damage?



Is there a reason why you would want a GTOCP1 instead of a GTOCP2?



We can also configure a new GTOCP3 to work with the 600EGTO.



If you try to send photos, e-mail me directly: howard at astro-physics dot com



Mag. 7 Skies!



Howard Hedlund

Astro-Physics, Inc.

Phone: 815-282-1513

www.astro-physics.comwww.astro-physics.com/>

Please include this e-mail with your response.



P Consider the environment before printing this e-mail.





From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of caelumstellatum@...

Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 2:23 PM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] Re: CP1 AP600E GTO compatibility







Hi Howard,



Thank you very much for kind reply and full explanation about that!



Do you think in AP factory could be still available any old electronic parts for CP1 for AP600E or one complete?



I'm a new user here ... can I place a request via a new post to ask if somebody hold a CP1 for AP600 and could sell to me?



Thx again



Alberto

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, Howard howard@...mailto:howard@...>> wrote:

>

> Hi Alberto,

>

> I am sorry, but you will not be able to use the GTOCP1 from a 900GTO mount with your 600EGTO. The control boxes for the large mounts and the small mounts are wired differently internally. The version for the 900GTO and 1200GTO is wired with receptacles on each side for the separate R.A. and Dec. cables. The version for the 400GTO and 600EGTO is wired with all the R.A./Dec.connections in the receptacle on the side nearest the RS232 ports.

>

> There are additional issues as well. The 900GTO's control box may have the wrong chip inside, depending on the gearboxes used on the motors of your 600EGTO. Finally, there are some dip switches that would need to be changed, but that part would not be too difficult compared to everything else.

>

> There was a GTOCP2 for sale on AstroMart at a very reasonable price a few days ago. I do not know if it is still available, but it might be your best alternative if you do not wish to have the old unit repaired or purchase a new GTOCP3.

>

> I might be able to provide a bit more help if you send me the mount's serial number. Also, please look inside the damaged GTOCP2 and find the version of the EPROM chip that is inside. The version will either be a single letter from A to E, or else will have two letters - the first being a K, and the second being a letter from A to E. For example, it might be a "B" or it could be a "KD" or something like that. It might also have no label at all, which also tells us something about the chip.

>

> Mag. 7 Skies!

>

> Howard Hedlund

> Astro-Physics, Inc.

> Phone: 815-282-1513

> www.astro-physics.comwww.astro-physics.com/>

> Please include this e-mail with your response.

>

> P Consider the environment before printing this e-mail.

>

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of caelumstellatum@...

> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 5:32 PM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

> Subject: [ap-gto] CP1 AP600E GTO compatibility

>

>

>

> Hi,

>

> I have a AP600E GTO with CP2. Since unfortunately CP2 drop from my tripod it remained damaged and I no longer can use it.

>

> A kind friend lended me his old CP1 perfectly running with his AP900 but using my AP600 it doesn't work well.

>

> In fact using it as per the AP instruction sheet (www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/previous/servo/GTOCP1-2008-09-11.pdf) with left plug of the cable, only the Dec keypad keys run (but moving the Ar axis!), but AR keys don't work! Instead using the right plug-in only the AR keypad keys run (but moving the Dec axis!)

>

> What is happening? Somebody has the answer? Which is the remedy?

>

> Here in Italy nobody know anything ...

>

> I strongly hope you can help me.

>

> Thanks

> Regards

>

> Alberto

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#32522 Aug 3, 2011

Hi Howard,



sure .. but it could take many weeks and probably its cost is expensive. For these reason only I was looking a quick (and cheap) solution like use the CP1 I already hold, otherwise fair way should buy an used CP1 or a new one CP1 (which maybe remained in your warehouse somewere).



Furthermore sending back my CP2 (which is in any case a good solution) alreay I have to spend (since I live in Italy) and it will take a lot of time maybe 2-3 months ...



A new CP3 should be too expensive for the whole value of my old AP600 (and my billfold is empty, too).



;-)



I have no idea what's CP2 damage, I'll check better and take few photos soon.



Thank you for very kind reply and kindness ... pls, check for a cheap solution and idea if possible.



I'll reply you again via direct email you kindy sent.



Regards



Alberto





--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Howard howard@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Alberto,

>

> It is quite likely that we can repair your GTOCP2. Do you have any idea what is wrong with it? Can you send me any photos that show the damage?

>

> Is there a reason why you would want a GTOCP1 instead of a GTOCP2?

>

> We can also configure a new GTOCP3 to work with the 600EGTO.

>

> If you try to send photos, e-mail me directly: howard at astro-physics dot com

>

> Mag. 7 Skies!

>

> Howard Hedlund

> Astro-Physics, Inc.

> Phone: 815-282-1513

> www.astro-physics.comwww.astro-physics.com/>

> Please include this e-mail with your response.

>

> P Consider the environment before printing this e-mail.

>

>

> From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of caelumstellatum@...

> Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 2:23 PM

> To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [ap-gto] Re: CP1 AP600E GTO compatibility

>

>

>

> Hi Howard,

>

> Thank you very much for kind reply and full explanation about that!

>

> Do you think in AP factory could be still available any old electronic parts for CP1 for AP600E or one complete?

>

> I'm a new user here ... can I place a request via a new post to ask if somebody hold a CP1 for AP600 and could sell to me?

>

> Thx again

>

> Alberto

>

> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>, Howard howard@mailto:howard@>> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Alberto,

> >

> > I am sorry, but you will not be able to use the GTOCP1 from a 900GTO mount with your 600EGTO. The control boxes for the large mounts and the small mounts are wired differently internally. The version for the 900GTO and 1200GTO is wired with receptacles on each side for the separate R.A. and Dec. cables. The version for the 400GTO and 600EGTO is wired with all the R.A./Dec.connections in the receptacle on the side nearest the RS232 ports.

> >

> > There are additional issues as well. The 900GTO's control box may have the wrong chip inside, depending on the gearboxes used on the motors of your 600EGTO. Finally, there are some dip switches that would need to be changed, but that part would not be too difficult compared to everything else.

> >

> > There was a GTOCP2 for sale on AstroMart at a very reasonable price a few days ago. I do not know if it is still available, but it might be your best alternative if you do not wish to have the old unit repaired or purchase a new GTOCP3.

> >

> > I might be able to provide a bit more help if you send me the mount's serial number. Also, please look inside the damaged GTOCP2 and find the version of the EPROM chip that is inside. The version will either be a single letter from A to E, or else will have two letters - the first being a K, and the second being a letter from A to E. For example, it might be a "B" or it could be a "KD" or something like that. It might also have no label at all, which also tells us something about the chip.

> >

> > Mag. 7 Skies!

> >

> > Howard Hedlund

> > Astro-Physics, Inc.

> > Phone: 815-282-1513

> > www.astro-physics.comwww.astro-physics.com/>

> > Please include this e-mail with your response.

> >

> > P Consider the environment before printing this e-mail.

> >

> >

> > From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of caelumstellatum@

> > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 5:32 PM

> > To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.commailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>

> > Subject: [ap-gto] CP1 AP600E GTO compatibility

> >

> >

> >

> > Hi,

> >

> > I have a AP600E GTO with CP2. Since unfortunately CP2 drop from my tripod it remained damaged and I no longer can use it.

> >

> > A kind friend lended me his old CP1 perfectly running with his AP900 but using my AP600 it doesn't work well.

> >

> > In fact using it as per the AP instruction sheet (www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/previous/servo/GTOCP1-2008-09-11.pdf) with left plug of the cable, only the Dec keypad keys run (but moving the Ar axis!), but AR keys don't work! Instead using the right plug-in only the AR keypad keys run (but moving the Dec axis!)

> >

> > What is happening? Somebody has the answer? Which is the remedy?

> >

> > Here in Italy nobody know anything ...

> >

> > I strongly hope you can help me.

> >

> > Thanks

> > Regards

> >

> > Alberto

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>







----------------------------

#32875 Aug 22, 2011

Dear All,



First of all, "Hi everyone", first time in the AP's world... with AP600E ...



And, of course, first question... Which kind of polar scope is suitable for this mount ? If possible, from other supplier... like Losmandy, etc...



Sorry to ask this question, but the price in Europe is expensive for a PASILL4 :-/



Thanks in advance for your support

Best regards

Niko.



----------------------------

#32907 Aug 23, 2011

Dear Kent, dear All,



Thanks for your support.



If I bought the PASILL2... is there a mean to use it with a software linked to the mount?



I think at ASCOM solution proposed by EQMOD, where the software communicates with the mount to place the reticle where should be the polar.

www.welshdragoncomputing.ca/eqmod/doku.php?id=eqascom_polarscope_alignment_tool



Thanks in advance for your help

Niko.



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Kent Kirkley kgkirkley@...> wrote:

>

> Niko:

>

>

> The AP polar alignment scopes are basically Losmandy scopes.

>

>

>

> I think there is an adapter on the AP site that allows the use of Losmandy scopes?

>

>

>

>

> Kent Kirkley

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: eff nicogrou@...>

> To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2011 5:33 am

> Subject: [ap-gto] Polar Scope for AP600E GTO CP2

>

>

> Dear All,

>

> First of all, "Hi everyone", first time in the AP's world... with AP600E ...

>

> And, of course, first question... Which kind of polar scope is suitable for this

> mount ? If possible, from other supplier... like Losmandy, etc...

>

> Sorry to ask this question, but the price in Europe is expensive for a PASILL4

> :-/

>

> Thanks in advance for your support

> Best regards

> Niko.

>

>

>

---------------

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



----------------------------

#32910 Aug 23, 2011

Niko:





I've been using Losmandy, Astro Physics and Tak polar alignment scopes for



over 15 years without any kind of software to tell me where to place Polaris





in the reticle...and it has worked just fine.







Why complicate a simple device and procedure?







The reticles are engraved showing where Polaris and two other stars

should be located as well as Cassiopeia and Canis Major as reference.





However, I have found that the Losmandy and AP scope reticles often need to

be calibrated or 'bore sighted' as they don't come from the 'factory' this way.

This just means adjusting the reticle in the eyepiece so that it is properly

centered.





Kent Kirkley























-----Original Message-----

From: eff nicogrou@...>

To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2011 11:52 pm

Subject: [ap-gto] Re: Polar Scope for AP600E GTO CP2





Dear Kent, dear All,



Thanks for your support.



If I bought the PASILL2... is there a mean to use it with a software linked to

the mount?



I think at ASCOM solution proposed by EQMOD, where the software communicates

with the mount to place the reticle where should be the polar.

www.welshdragoncomputing.ca/eqmod/doku.php?id=eqascom_polarscope_alignment_tool



Thanks in advance for your help

Niko.



--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Kent Kirkley kgkirkley@...> wrote:

>

> Niko:

>

>

> The AP polar alignment scopes are basically Losmandy scopes.

>

>

>

> I think there is an adapter on the AP site that allows the use of Losmandy

scopes?

>

>

>

>

> Kent Kirkley

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: eff nicogrou@...>

> To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

> Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2011 5:33 am

> Subject: [ap-gto] Polar Scope for AP600E GTO CP2

>

>

> Dear All,

>

> First of all, "Hi everyone", first time in the AP's world... with AP600E ...

>

> And, of course, first question... Which kind of polar scope is suitable for

this

> mount ? If possible, from other supplier... like Losmandy, etc...

>

> Sorry to ask this question, but the price in Europe is expensive for a PASILL4



> :-/

>

> Thanks in advance for your support

> Best regards

> Niko.

>

>

>

---------------

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>









---------------



To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#33027 Aug 31, 2011

Hello,

I have not used either of these mounts but am currently considering upgrading to one of these mounts. I have the opportunity to acquire a used AP600e at a reasonable cost, i.e. significantly lower than that of a new mach1. I was wondering how this mount compares with the mach1 GTO.

I will be initially using the mount to image objects in the 500-800mm range with Tak FSQ scope. I expect to acquire a longer RC or Maksutov (under 2500mm ) over the course of a year or two. I will be driving or flying to dark skies for all my imaging so portability is somewhat important. I am in good shape so weight isn't a major consideration though size is.



What are specific advantages a Mach1 has over the AP600e? What is the periodic error of an AP600e? Is the error smooth and correctable with autoguiding? Are there other accuracy considerations (gear noise etc.) that would lead one to prefer a mach1? What kind of functionality am I missing out on with the AP600E/GTOCP2 combination vs the mach1/GTOCP3 combo?



Thanks in advance for your input!



----------------------------

#33028 Aug 31, 2011

In a message dated 8/31/2011 2:50:34 PM Central Daylight Time,

mrramviswanathan@... writes:



> What are specific advantages a Mach1 has over the AP600e? What is the

> periodic error of an AP600e? Is the error smooth and correctable with

> autoguiding? Are there other accuracy considerations (gear noise etc.) that would

> lead one to prefer a mach1? What kind of functionality am I missing out on

> with the AP600E/GTOCP2 combination vs the mach1/GTOCP3 combo?

>



The Mach1 has twice the carrying capacity of the 600E. The periodic error

of the 600E was not controlled or measured when we made those mounts. It will

be smooth but probably will be higher than the Mach1. You get more

stability with the newer mount, and that is important for imaging.



Rolando



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#38185 Oct 19, 2012

Dear all,

.

My AP600E for sale! Interested?

.

If yes, do not hesitate to contact me for further details.

.

Nicolas, Belgium.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



----------------------------

#38817 Dec 6, 2012

Hello togehter !



I.m new here. My Name is Jens and i live in Germany in an average

monutain area 60 km to the east of Cologne.

Since 2000 i own a 5 inch Starfire first on a CNC 400 Mounting with

stepper motors and encoder in mobile use .

4 years ago i build a backyard observatory, where i now observe the most

of time. Last year i bought a second hand AP600E gto

in good condition, completly checked, cleaned and new greased just a

few month before buying it. The Keypad use the

up-to-date chip and the latest keypad firmware 4.17. This work was done

by Baader Planetarium in Mammendorf and the

last owner of the mounting.



The mounting works very well and have no damage and looks like new.

Compared to my CNC 400 Mounting, the balancing

of both axis with telescope and counter weights is not very sensitive

and the response is more strong and not so direktly. Both axis

do not move very smooth, when the clamping knobs are unfixed. I think

this is normal ? I.ve no experience with this mounting before.



Now to my problem, which appears at last, when i took videos of jupiter

with an TIS DMK Camera and the telescope respectivily the

right ascension axis (tube is at the west side of the mounting) comes

near to the culmination point, in some measure, when

there is low pressure or tension on the gear. Jupiter then runs out of

the image area that way, as if the motor does not run anymore.

Strange to say sometimes, after pushing the keys to fetch back jupiter,

it does not work very long and jupiter disappears again. After

3 or 4 attemps the keypad at times does not respond on any key and only

switching off and then switching on the power helps to relaunch the

keypad. When i slew round the telescope to the other side of the

mounting the problem do not appear so far. Is there any problem with the

right balancing ?



Do someone of you had this problem, too ? I would be nice, when someone

could give help or a reason for this behavior of the mounting.

New balancing do not solve the problem. Until now it only appears near

the meridian transit of the right ascension axis, when the telescope

is on the east side.



I.m not a native english speaker and i hope, i could describe the

problem understandable.



Clear skies and thanks for reading, Jens



----------------------------

#38820 Dec 6, 2012

Hello Roland,



thanks a lot for your email and the explanation of the work of the servo

controller !

I will contact Baader for further information.



Regards, Jens



Am 06.12.2012 20:46, schrieb chris1011@...: >

>

> You can contact Baader Planetarium in Germany. They will be able to

> help you troubleshoot your problem. They can fix any of our products,

> mounting and telescopes, if there is a problem.

> One thing: the keypad does not control your motors. It is the servo

> controller that controls the action of the motors. Under normal

> operation the light on the servo is red, but if the RA motor stalls,

> then the light turns amber (yellow). That tells you that the motor is

> not running in RA. It can be caused by low battery voltage or

> imbalance of the RA axis or both. The amber light indicates motor

> stall condition which can be reset by pushing the E-W buttons on the

> keypad. However, if the condidion of imbalance or low battery is not

> fixed, you will get the same thing again in 2 seconds time.

>

> Roland

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: starfire130apo starfire130apo@...

> mailto:starfire130apo%40yahoo.com>>

> To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>>

> Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2012 1:15 pm

> Subject: [ap-gto] Problems with AP600E gto near the culmination point

>

> Hello togehter !

>

> I.m new here. My Name is Jens and i live in Germany in an average

> monutain area 60 km to the east of Cologne.

> Since 2000 i own a 5 inch Starfire first on a CNC 400 Mounting with

> stepper motors and encoder in mobile use .

> 4 years ago i build a backyard observatory, where i now observe the most

> of time. Last year i bought a second hand AP600E gto

> in good condition, completly checked, cleaned and new greased just a

> few month before buying it. The Keypad use the

> up-to-date chip and the latest keypad firmware 4.17. This work was done

> by Baader Planetarium in Mammendorf and the

> last owner of the mounting.

>

> The mounting works very well and have no damage and looks like new.

> Compared to my CNC 400 Mounting, the balancing

> of both axis with telescope and counter weights is not very sensitive

> and the response is more strong and not so direktly. Both axis

> do not move very smooth, when the clamping knobs are unfixed. I think

> this is normal ? I.ve no experience with this mounting before.

>

> Now to my problem, which appears at last, when i took videos of jupiter

> with an TIS DMK Camera and the telescope respectivily the

> right ascension axis (tube is at the west side of the mounting) comes

> near to the culmination point, in some measure, when

> there is low pressure or tension on the gear. Jupiter then runs out of

> the image area that way, as if the motor does not run anymore.

> Strange to say sometimes, after pushing the keys to fetch back jupiter,

> it does not work very long and jupiter disappears again. After

> 3 or 4 attemps the keypad at times does not respond on any key and only

> switching off and then switching on the power helps to relaunch the

> keypad. When i slew round the telescope to the other side of the

> mounting the problem do not appear so far. Is there any problem with the

> right balancing ?

>

> Do someone of you had this problem, too ? I would be nice, when someone

> could give help or a reason for this behavior of the mounting.

> New balancing do not solve the problem. Until now it only appears near

> the meridian transit of the right ascension axis, when the telescope

> is on the east side.

>

> I.m not a native english speaker and i hope, i could describe the

> problem understandable.

>

> Clear skies and thanks for reading, Jens

>

---------------

>

> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

> see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







----------------------------

#42994 Jan 22, 2014

Axel, ��Regrettably, there is not a way to use the RAPAS with the 600 mount.�� The sight hole does not have a large enough diameter to accommodate the larger RAPAS optical tube. �� ��Regards, ��George ��George WhitneyAstro-Physics, Inc.Phone:�� 815-282-1513Email:�� george@...

��From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of germany7574@...

Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2014 2:45 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] RAPAS on 600E GTO ?



----------------------------

#43875 May 7, 2014

I have both a 600E and a Mach1.��

My question is if I wanted to use a 15v or 18v power supply for the Mach1 can I use it for the 600E as well?�� Or should I just stick to the nominal 12V battery voltage for the 600E?

John



----------------------------

#43876 May 7, 2014

The 600E can be run off 12 - 15 volt power.



Rolando







-----Original Message-----From: elenillor elenillor@...>To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>Sent: Wed, May 7, 2014 7:19 pmSubject: [ap-gto] 600E voltage



I have both a 600E and a Mach1.��

My question is if I wanted to use a 15v or 18v power supply for the Mach1 can I use it for the 600E as well?�� Or should I just stick to the nominal 12V battery voltage for the 600E?

John



----------------------------

#45015 Sep 9, 2014

Hi everyone,I have readed some topics about AP600E GTO load capacity and still need to be confortable with that point before buying an 2nd hand mount (for a good price;-) ) My setup for astrophotography will be TSA-120, SBIG ST-8300, FW5, 60mm guiding scope, autoguider and small accessories for about 10.6kg in total. As the AP600 can carry 11.4kg, do you thing my setup will fit well on it? Load capacity on some "chinese-made" mounts drops up to 30-50% for imaging purpose...does the AP mount suffer from same reduction factor? I guess not but I would like to read some feedback about that;-)Thanks for reading my post.Christophe



----------------------------

#49539 Nov 16, 2015

Hi,After a long pause I am now back into using my scope. ��One reason is that I have a permanent installation on a nice pier so setup is instantaneous. ��So I am now in the process of adjusting everything for imaging.This is the setup:AP600e GOTO on a Paramount MX permanent pier (Solid!).Takahashi FSQ106��Sbig STL11000 camera

The above gives 3.6 arcsec / pixel on the camera. ��Should be easy...��The mount is only polar aligned with a polar scope for the moment but can give 5 minute unguided exposures with little field rotation or opbvious tracking errors.

So I did a 15 minute image with the scope on the west of the meridian pointing east and the RMS tracking error was 0.16 pixels. ��Seeing was the best I ever saw that night.I slew the scope further to the south and tried again. ��Try as I could, I could not get the mount to calibrate at all. ��It seemed that corrections were large and when the correction stopped, the next image actually showed that the stars were still moving.This is using CCDSoft and a guiding rate of 1x.So I'm not sure what is going on here.The scope is balanced but I really can't tell if it is or not since it can take quite a movement of the weights to actually make it look unbalanced. ��Now I have heard that a scope should be balanced so that when the counterweight is on the east of the meridian then that side should be heavier.But what happens when you then image on the other side of the meridian??? Does one need to adjust the weights to make the scope heavier then?So please help out a newbie here. ��Thanks, Tom��



----------------------------

#49541 Nov 16, 2015

I slew the scope further to the south and tried again. ��Try as I could, I could not get the mount to calibrate at all. ��It seemed that corrections were large and when the correction stopped, the next image actually showed that the stars were still moving.

��Not sure what��this means. I would assume that you did a calibration run in CCDsoft, which should have applied to everywhere else in the sky. Not really a need for another calibration run when going to different parts of the sky.��So, to clarify, the mount kept moving after a calibration run? Or did it keep moving after a slew to the new position, or did it keep moving after a correction signal via CCDsoft? And which axis kept moving? Can you tell which direction it was moving - to the East or to the West or N-S?��Rolando��-----Original Message-----

From: tom_b@... [ap-gto] ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Mon, Nov 16, 2015 2:32 pm

Subject: [ap-gto] Tracking issues with an AP600e Goto





Hi,After a long pause I am now back into using my scope. ��One reason is that I have a permanent installation on a nice pier so setup is instantaneous. ��So I am now in the process of adjusting everything for imaging.This is the setup:AP600e GOTO on a Paramount MX permanent pier (Solid!).Takahashi FSQ106��Sbig STL11000 camera



The above gives 3.6 arcsec / pixel on the camera. ��Should be easy...��The mount is only polar aligned with a polar scope for the moment but can give 5 minute unguided exposures with little field rotation or opbvious tracking errors.



So I did a 15 minute image with the scope on the west of the meridian pointing east and the RMS tracking error was 0.16 pixels. ��Seeing was the best I ever saw that night.I slew the scope further to the south and tried again. ��Try as I could, I could not get the mount to calibrate at all. ��It seemed that corrections were large and when the correction stopped, the next image actually showed that the stars were still moving.This is using CCDSoft and a guiding rate of 1x.So I'm not sure what is going on here.The scope is balanced but I really can't tell if it is or not since it can take quite a movement of the weights to actually make it look unbalanced. ��Now I have heard that a scope should be balanced so that when the counterweight is on the east of the meridian then that side should be heavier.But what happens when you then image on the other side of the meridian??? Does one need to adjust the weights to make the scope heavier then?So please help out a newbie here. ��Thanks, Tom��







----------------------------

#49544 Nov 16, 2015

Hi,Nope, can't move it at all with the clutches engaged.



----------------------------

#49545 Nov 16, 2015

Hi,Yes, I did a calibration run in CCDSoft. ��The first one I did was fantastic, the star moved just perfectly in both directions and then the tracking was great.The second time I did one, was where everything seemed to become unstable. ��I kept getting errors but when the next exposure was taken, the stars all were trails. ��I think they were in the DEC but I can't say for sure.I am going to try again tonight.On the other hand, now that I think of it, I was running Microsofts Worldwide telescope the second time and it was tracking the mount. ��Perhaps there is something there...you cannot slew in that application unless you turn tracking off. ��Maybe there is some interaction there that is causing what I am seeing. I'll try again tonight with just CCDSoft.Just a question, can this mount track through the meridian?Thanks, Tom



----------------------------

#49547 Nov 16, 2015

External software can interfere with proper tracking and guiding. Especially if it tells the mount to turn off tracking. ��Here's a hint: once you have a good calibration run, don't do it again. If the scope focal length did not change and if the camera is placed in the same orientation, then you never ever need to do another calibration run. All that the cal run does is inform the guiding software how far and in which direction the star moves when move commands are given. It does not depend on whether it is Thursday or it is warm out or what year it is. Or even if you have good or not so good polar alignment. None of these affect the actual calibration numbers one bit - as long as the scope and camera orientation has not been changed significantly.��And finally, yes all our mounts that run with the CP controllers will guide or track thru the meridian. The keypad allows you to choose the meridian flip point, so you can start on the wrong side and continue tracking all the way to the western horizon. Just make sure that the scope will clear the pier when on the wrong side.��Rolando����-----Original Message-----

From: tom_b@... [ap-gto] ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Mon, Nov 16, 2015 3:33 pm

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Tracking issues with an AP600e Goto





Hi,Yes, I did a calibration run in CCDSoft. ��The first one I did was fantastic, the star moved just perfectly in both directions and then the tracking was great.The second time I did one, was where everything seemed to become unstable. ��I kept getting errors but when the next exposure was taken, the stars all were trails. ��I think they were in the DEC but I can't say for sure.I am going to try again tonight.On the other hand, now that I think of it, I was running Microsofts Worldwide telescope the second time and it was tracking the mount. ��Perhaps there is something there...you cannot slew in that application unless you turn tracking off. ��Maybe there is some interaction there that is causing what I am seeing. I'll try again tonight with just CCDSoft.Just a question, can this mount track through the meridian?Thanks, Tom



----------------------------

#49552 Nov 17, 2015

Now, I can reproduce this manually. ��In the autoguide screen of CCDSoft there are the N,S,W,E buttons to move the scope. If I press on the E button and take an image, the mount is still moving. ��At this point if I do "Take image" again, it is still moving! and again! ��Then it stops.

��This happens only if you have set the button rate at 12x. It will not happen at 1x. Check your button rate. Some external software is setting the guide rate at 12x. The keypad does not reflect this since it does not communicate with the outside software that is changing your button rate. Remove all external software except your guiding software until you can figure out what is happening.��Rolando��-----Original Message-----

From: tom_b@... [ap-gto] ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tue, Nov 17, 2015 8:19 am

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Tracking issues with an AP600e Goto





Hi,So I spent some quality time with the mount last night...The first thing I did is to try the autotracking. ��I couldn't ask for better performance. ��In CCDSoft, the error reported was 0.2 pixels max over a 20 minute guided exposure. ��So I figured this must have been a software issue.Next I ran pempro to do a polar alignment. ��That took the better part of 4 hours..It seemed that I either overshot one axis or the other. ��After struggling with this it seems that the best I could do was a drift over 5 minutes of 40 arcsec in azimuth and 15 arcsec in altitude (yes arcseconds). ��This seems to allow me to do a 10 minute unguided shot without a problem.I then did a pempro ��PE analysis on the mount. ��The results were spectacular, and error of 1.8 / 1.1 arcseconds. ��This was reproducable.However, I then wanted to start using the mount for an image. ��So I slewed to an object and tried to turn on autoguiding. ��Well it picked up the star fine but after the first correction the star was gone.So I did a recalibration and it was now impossible to recalibrate the software. ��What happened was this: The N, S, W movements were perfect. ��The star image afterwards showed that it moved perfectly in the initial move and the return. ��The E movement was another story!When CCDSoft takes an image after moving, the stars are long trails. ��It seems that in the E direction the mount keeps moving after the correction is sent.Now, I can reproduce this manually. ��In the autoguide screen of CCDSoft there are the N,S,W,E buttons to move the scope. If I press on the E button and take an image, the mount is still moving. ��At this point if I do "Take image" again, it is still moving! and again! ��Then it stops.So it seems like the mount is getting the command to move and it is then taking 8 seconds or so to complete it, and we are talking a small amount of movement.Now get this. ��I went and slewed the scope around randomly for about a minute and then tried to calibrate again. ��This time it was perfect! ��So for the next 40 minute all was well, then I went to bed.So, where do I go from here?Thanks







----------------------------

#49554 Nov 17, 2015

Hi,I made it ��point last night that only CCDSoft and the AP V2 ascom driver were running. ��SO the first autoguiding run was fantastic.��However, the error seemed to happen after PEMPRO was active, even though it was shut down. ��Perhaps Pempro set the rate at something and then it was not reset by CCDSoft?Can I rule out a mechanical issue? ��Since it is only in one direction, would not a mechanical issue affect both directions?Thanks, Tom



----------------------------

#49555 Nov 17, 2015

It is definitely not a mechanical issue. When you are troubleshooting an error in the system, make it as simple as possible at first. Then start layering other software until the problem surfaces. ��Whenever I am guiding, I make sure that I don't have any other software in the loop that is sending instructions to the mount. I try to keep things as simple as possible. I'm not sure why PEMPro would have sent any commands to the mount but it is possible for external software to override CCDSoft commands, so I would close down any software that is not needed for autoguiding.��Rolando����-----Original Message-----

From: tom_b@... [ap-gto] ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tue, Nov 17, 2015 11:25 am

Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Tracking issues with an AP600e Goto





Hi,I made it ��point last night that only CCDSoft and the AP V2 ascom driver were running. ��SO the first autoguiding run was fantastic.��However, the error seemed to happen after PEMPRO was active, even though it was shut down. ��Perhaps Pempro set the rate at something and then it was not reset by CCDSoft?Can I rule out a mechanical issue? ��Since it is only in one direction, would not a mechanical issue affect both directions?Thanks, Tom



----------------------------

#49556 Nov 17, 2015

Hi, Ok will do so tonight....another nice evening over here. ��I asked Ray about the pempro issue on an unrelated thread at CCDWare. ��It was closed but I did not disconnect from the camera or mount.If I see an issue, I'll try and enable logging to track this down.Thanks for your help and for a really excellent example of an AP600e!Tom



----------------------------

#50169 Jan 4, 2016

Oh, I should mention, I had the problem before where it seemed that the motors did not stop after a calibration but it was +15C at the time.



----------------------------

#50178 Jan 5, 2016

Hi

"I was imaging the horse head andit is as if Alnitak was the north pole and everything else was revolvingaround it!. "

That would indicate you were severlymisaligned on the pole and guided on a star close to Alnitak. What youdescribe is classic field rotation.

CS

Pawel Lancucki



----------------------------

#50187 Jan 5, 2016

Ha, was a late night....the camera which has a rotator, was caught on frozen cables and rotating!



----------------------------

#51730 Mar 29, 2016

Hi,



Just a quick question. Is this controller compatible with the AP600 ?

It currently has a cp control box, but can't tell which version it is on

sight.

Here is an image of it:

supernovae.be/sites/default/files/field/image/Vixen.JPG



Maarten



----------------------------

#51739 Mar 29, 2016

Yes, it is.

��Here is information:www.astro-physics.com/products/mounts/servodrive/cp4-upgrade-inst.pdfwww.astro-physics.com/products/mounts/servodrive/cp4-upgrade.htm ��Clear Skies, ��Marj ChristenAstro-Physics, Inc11250 Forest Hills RdMachesney Park, IL 61115Phone: 815-282-1513Fax: 815-282-9847www.astro-physics.com

��From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com]

Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 7:40 AM

To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [ap-gto] Cp 4 controller compatible with AP600EGTO ?



----------------------------

#51742 Mar 29, 2016

Yes the CP4 can be used with the 600 GTO mount.��Rolando����-----Original Message-----

From: Maarten Vanleenhove maarten.vanleenhove@... [ap-gto] ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

To: ap-gto ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tue, Mar 29, 2016 7:39 am

Subject: [ap-gto] Cp 4 controller compatible with AP600EGTO ?



Hi,



Just a quick question. Is this controller compatible with the AP600 ?

It currently has a cp control box, but can't tell which version it is on

sight.

Here is an image of it:

supernovae.be/sites/default/files/field/image/Vixen.JPG



Maarten





---------------

Posted by: Maarten Vanleenhove maarten.vanleenhove@...>

---------------



To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list

see groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto

---------------



Yahoo Groups Links



*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto/



*> Your email settings:

Individual Email | Traditional



*> To change settings online go to:

groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gto/join

(Yahoo! ID required)



*> To change settings via email:

ap-gto-digest@yahoogroups.com

ap-gto-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com



*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

ap-gto-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to:

info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/



Contact Us
This Site's Privacy Policy
Google's privacy policies

S
e
n
i
o
r
T
u
b
e
.
o
r
g